Information respecting any portion of the region described in Vols. I. 
and II. of the Alpine Guide, with a view to the correction of errors or 
omissions, will be thankfully received by the Editor. It is requested that 
notes may be authenticated by the name and address of the writer, and 
directed to the Editor, care of the Secretary of the Alpine Club, 23 Savile 
Row, London, W. 



Messrs. H. Georg & Co. are Agents for the sale of the Alpine Guide 
in Switzerland and Lyons. It may be obtained at, or ordered from, 
their houses at Bale (Freiestrasse), Geneva (Corraterie), or Lyons 
(Passage de l'Hotel-Dieu). 



Louden 



The Alpine Guide 



THE WESTERN ALPS 



BY THE LATE 

/ 

JOHN BALL, F.R.S. &c. 

PRESIDENT OF THE ALPINE CLUB 

A NEW EDITION 

RECONSTRUCTED AND REVISED 
ON BEHALF OF THE ALPINE CLUB 

BY 

W. A. B. COOLIDGE 

FELLOW OF MAGDALEN COLLEGE, OXFORD 
AND FORMERLY EDITOR OF THE ' ALPINE JOURNAL' 



WITH NEW AND REVISED MAPS 



LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO. 

39 PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON 
NEW YORK AND BOMBAY 
T898 

All rights reserved 



PREFACE 

TO 

THE NEW EDITION. 



Mr. Ball in his Preface to the third edition (1870) of this volume 
expressed his surprise at the numerous changes which had occurred 
since the publication of the first (1863) an< ^ second (1866) editions, 
and had entailed many alterations in the text. He also remarked 
that after another interval of two or three years a similar process of 
correction would be required. For various reasons, however, Mr. 
Ball himself was unable to carry out this intention, save to a very 
inconsiderable extent. Hence his important work became more and 
more out of date as time went on and the Alps were more and more 
minutely explored. 

It was only natural, therefore, that, after his lamented death on 
October 21, 1889, the Alpine Club should take into consideration the 
question of bringing the book up to date, as a memorial to the 
first President and first Editor of the Club. An appeal made 
for funds to carry out this project was liberally responded to, and at 
the Winter Meeting of the Club in December, 1890, the then 
President officially announced that the revision would be proceeded 
with at once. 

On December 12, 1893, I accepted, at the request of the Committee 
of the Club, the post of General Editor of Volumes I. and II. and of the 
General Introduction. I explained in my letter of acceptance that I 
was already deeply engaged for that winter, and could do little for a 
time except to organise a band of helpers. But I did not then 
foresee that my health would break down, that I should be compelled 
to reside* abroad, and that my breakdown would culminate in a 
very serious illness. This series of unexpected events have, of 
course, greatly delayed the task of revision, which, though begun in 
1894, was only completed in 1897. No one can regret these vexatious 



vi 



PREFACE TO THE NEW EDITION 



delays more than myself, and I must express my very sincere thanks 
to the Committee of the Alpine Club for the kindly and generous 
consideration which they have shown to me under such trying 
circumstances. However the revision of Volume I. at least is now 
complete, the MS. having been ended on June 5, 1897, while it was all 
in type on December 2 of the same year. 

The first point which I had to determine was to settle the main 
lines on which the revision was to be carried out. Here I was much 
aided through the kindness of Mrs. Ball, who allowed me to examine 
her husband's Alpine diaries and correspondence, especially of the 
periods at which the book was being originally written, or later on 
revised. I may be permitted here to offer her my very hearty thanks 
for this great courtesy. I soon found that Mr. Ball's scheme was (as 
I had expected) an admirable one, consisting in invoking the 
assistance of all the principal mountaineers, whether English or 
foreign, of the day. It seemed to me that I could do no better than 
adopt this plan, with the modifications which later experience had 
shown to be desirable. Hence in December, 1893, I drew up a 
circular of invitation (accompanied by detailed 6 Instructions which 
I sent to all the mountain specialists of Europe who were likely to be 
able to furnish useful information for Volumes I. and II. I selected 
this band of helpers from among all the mountaineers that I 
could hear of, absolutely regardless of whether they belonged to 
any Alpine Club or not, or whether I had or had not the honour 
of their personal acquaintance. It speaks well for Alpine comity 
that (so far as regards the present volume at least) I did not meet 
with a single refusal, while gradually others either spontaneously 
offered their services or were later on requested by me to take part in 
the revision. (A general appeal for help was also inserted in the 
' Alpine Journal.' ) These specialists each received an interleaved copy 
of the unrevised text relating to the district with which they were 
specially acquainted. Their more or less scattered notes (though 
there were rare exceptions) were then set in order by myself, and this 
type-written draft submitted to the several writers, so that the complete 
MS. had been thoroughly revised by the time it was sent to the 
printers. I need hardly say how very deeply indebted I am to this 
assistance, so generously rendered. Without it my task would have 
been much more difficult, in part well-nigh impossible. But while 
fully acknowledging my indebtedness to my devoted band of helpers 
for the notes, often of the most detailed kind, with which they 
entrusted me, it is only fair to them to state as distinctly as possible 
that I, and I alone, am responsible for the actual form and shape in 
which these invaluable notes appear in the published text. 



PREFACE TO THE NEW EDITION 



vii 



Two main principles were laid down in my * Circular ' for the 
guidance of my helpers. One was that the book was to be a new 
edition, not an entirely new work ; hence as much of the original 
text as possible was to be preserved, with corrections, and only in 
certain cases was a passage or section to be rewritten. The other 
was to keep always in mind the special character of Mr. Ball's book 
as a Guide to all the Alps, whether above or below the snow line. No 
attempt could be made, of course, within the limits of the work, to 
describe or even mention every peak or pass, but my aim has been 
to give some account of all the principal peaks and passes, high or 
low, included in the Western Alps. Various minor changes have also 
been made : the descriptions of railway lines and of towns (save those 
in the mountains) have been abridged, the best local monographs 
have been indicated in the Introductions to the several Sections, the 
names of Inns have been placed in the Index (which can be easily 
reprinted and so kept up to date), heights have been given in both 
English feet and metres, &c. &c. Unless it seemed to me absolutely 
necessary, the boundaries of the Chapters and Sections have remained 
unaltered, but new Routes have not unfrequently been inserted. For 
it is a well-known fact that the building of a new mountain Inn or 
Club hut entirely alters the character of a mountain region from the 
point of view of the practical convenience of travellers, and in a 
Guide-book, even in a Memorial Edition, such changes must be taken 
account of. Further, the growing tendency of travellers to settle 
down for some time in one spot had to be considered. Hence in the 
present edition there will be found tolerably full notices of the ex- 
cursions and ascents to be made, not merely, as of old, from Chamonix, 
Courmayeur, Zermatt, &c, but also from such new ' centres ' as 
Maljasset, Abries, La Berarde, Pralognan, Val d'Isere, Cogne,Chanrion, 
Arolla, &c. In this way it is hoped to make the book more useful to the 
various sections of Alpine travellers. In short, my aim has been to 
endeavour to give this book a place between such a Guide for ordinary 
travellers as ' Murray ' and such a special series as the 6 Climbers' 
Guides,' with both of which I have been closely associated. My own 
fairly extended, in some cases very detailed, acquaintance with well- 
nigh every district described in the present volume has enabled me, I 
trust, to do justice to the conflicting claims of many favourite resorts, 
while I have spared no pains in consulting the vast mass of recent 
Alpine literature, periodical or not, in order to obtain information that 
might be of service to the readers of this volume. The lists of books, 
Alpine periodicals, maps, and Club huts in the c Preliminary Notes ' 
have been made as complete as possible within due limits. 

Mountaineers of any nationality who meditate exploring the peaks 



viii 



PREFACE TO THE NEW EDITION 



and passes on the frontier ridge S. of the Mont Cenis Pass must be 
warned that of recent years the action of the military authorities of 
France and Italy has made such explorations very disagreeable and 
nearly impossible. This is specially the case on the French slope, 
where passports and other ordinary means of identification are nearly 
useless, as the officials imagine that every traveller, even if refraining 
from making sketches or taking photographs, is necessarily a spy. It 
has happened that even those explorers who have armed themselves 
with special permits from the central authorities have been much 
persecuted by the local officials. It is to be hoped that the authorities 
may before long be convinced that, unless they wish to exclude abso- 
lutely all travellers from this part of their country, they must treat 
them with ordinary courtesy and consideration. 

Although explorers of the higher regions of the Alps must employ 
the more or less perfect maps issued by the various Government 
Surveys, yet it is convenient to have at hand a set of maps on a 
smaller scale. Hence six entirely new District Maps (on which the 
greatest pains have been bestowed), representing the chain of the 
Alps S. of the Little St. Bernard Pass, are given with this volume. 
They are arranged to form a continuous series, and at the pass named 
join the 'Alpine Club J Map, from which the three District Maps of 
the Pennines (slightly revised only by reason of expense) are taken. 
The General Map of the Western Alps has also been thoroughly 
overhauled. 

In a work involving so many details, many of them extremely 
subject to change, it is impossible, despite the greatest care, to avoid 
slips, and even mistakes which may cause momentary inconvenience. 
But I hope that, as heretofore, travellers who note any shortcomings 
will show their interest in and appreciation of the book by forwarding 
their remarks to the Editor at the Alpine Club Rooms, 23 Savile 
Row, W. 

There now only remains the pleasant duty of thanking those who 
have so courteously and efficiently helped me to bring the first instal- 
ment of this undertaking to a successful close. First and foremost 
my most hearty thanks are due to Mr. Douglas Freshfield, whose 
unwearied friendship has aided me throughout in every way, and 
has encouraged me to an extent of which he himself is probably 
not aware, but which I can more or less fully appreciate. Next I 
must express my grateful acknowledgments to Sir Joseph Hooker 
and to Professor Bonney, who have each made a most important con- 
tribution to this Memorial Edition of the work of their old friend by 
reading the entire text of Volumes L and II., so as to correct the 
botanical and geological information therein contained. Amongst 



PREFACE TO THE NEW EDITION 



ix 



my helpers in the revision of the more strictly mountaineering 
portions of the text of Volume I. there are three whose assistance has 
been of enormous value and importance, so that I am infinitely in- 
debted to them for having so unselfishly allowed me to draw freely 
upon their vast stores of special information : I allude to Monsieur 
Michel Gilly, Monsieur Louis Kurz, and Mr. Alfred G. Topham, 
who have had in charge respectively the main portions of the sections 
relating to the Maritime Alps, to the Chain of Mont Blanc, and to 
the Central and part of the Eastern Pennines. But these three 
mountaineers are but ' primi inter pares, 5 for, if I am indebted for a 
smaller amount of information to my other helpers, these have been 
in no way inferior in zeal, in diligence, or in willingness to my three 
chief collaborators. I wish, therefore, to thank most sincerely the fol- 
lowing mountaineers for the aid rendered by them with reference 
to the districts named : — 

i. Maritime Alps. Monsieur Valentin de Gorlof, M. Francois Arnaud, 

Prof. W. Kilian. 

ii. Cottian Alps. M. Arnaud (again), Dr. J. W. Gregory, Monsieur 

J. J. R. Tron ( Waldensian pasteur). 
hi. Dauphine Alps. Mr. Frederick Gardiner, MM. Felix Perrin, 

Auguste Reynier, and H. Ferrand. 
iv. Graia?z Alps. Mr. G. Yeld, and M. Ferrand (again), 
v. Chain of Mont Blanc. Mr. G. H. Morse, Mr. J. H. Wicks, Dr. 

Claude Wilson, and the Rev. A. Sloman. 
vi. Six/. Mr. J. T. Wills, and Dr. W. A. Wills. 

vii. Champery. M. Eugene J. P. de la Harpe. 

viii. Central Penniiies. Mr. Walter Larden, Signor Felice Mondini, Dr. 

Walter Leaf, and Mr. E. T. Compton. 
ix. Zinal and Grnben Valleys. The Rev. A. G. Girdlestone, Mr. 
Frederick Corbett, the Rev. W. Gilbert Edwards, and Mr. J. S. 
Mann. 

x. Monte Rosa Group. Sir Frederick Pollock, Bart., Sir Martin Con- 
way, Mr. J. H. Wicks (again), and Signor Vittorio Sella, 
xi. Antrona Valley. Signor Riccardo Gerla. 

Let me also recall the memory of my poor friend the late Mr. E. 
F. M. Benecke, to whom I owe some useful particulars as to the Val 
de Bagnes. If unintentionally I have passed over any persons who 
may have sent me notes for this volume I beg them here to accept 
my excuses, and to believe that such omission is purely accidental. 

W, A. B, COOLIDGE. 

GRINDELWALD. February, 1 898. 

N.B. — It may be as well to note here that this volume was sent to press 
on April 2, 1898. Hence information received after that date, or published 
later in Alpine periodicals^ could not be utilised, 



X 



AUTHORITIES QUOTED. 

The quotations introduced in the present volume are distinguished 
by the initials corresponding to the subjoined list of authorities, and 
are chiefly taken from the MSS. notes communicated to Mr. Ball. 



T. G. B. Professor T. G. Bonney. 

E. N. B. Edward N. Buxton, Esq. 

G. C. M. le Chanoine G. Carrel. 
J. J. C. J. J. Cowell, Esq. 

J. F. Mrs. Freshfield, authoress of ' Alpine Byways,' &c. 

R. W. E. F. R. W. E. Forster, Esq. 

A. G. G. Rev. A, G. Girdlestone. 

H. B. G. Rev. H. B. George. 

F. G. Cavaliere Francesco Giordano. 
W. E. H. W. E. Hall, Esq. 

F. V. H. F. Vaughan Hawkins, Esq. 

J. J. H. Rev. J. J. Hornby. 

F. J. H. Rev. F. J. A. Hort. 

F. W. J. F. W. Jacomb, Esq. 

J. R. K. Rev. J. R. King. 

A. L. Mrs. Lingen. 

M. Murray's ' Handbook for Switzerland, Savoy, and Piedmont.' 

W. M. William Mathews, Esq. 

F. M. F. Mills, Esq. 

A. M. Arthur Milman, Esq. 

A. W. M. A. W. Moore, Esq. 

R. C. N. R. C. Nichols, Esq. 

A. A. R. A. Adams- Reilly, Esq. 

L. S. Leslie Stephen, Esq. 

F. F. T. F. Fox Tuckett, Esq. 

R. S. W. R. Spence Watson, Esq. 

A. W. Arthur P. Whately, Esq. 

C. L. W. Rev. C. L. Wingfield. 

S. W. Stephen Winkworth, Esq. 



In the present edition the notes communicated to the Editor are 
not distinguished by initials, but the names of those who have taken 
part in the revision are given in the Preface. 



ABBREVIATIONS AND EXPLANATIONS, 

The following are the chief abbreviations used in this work : — 

hrs. , m. — for hours and minutes. When used as a measure of distance, 
one hour is meant to indicate the distance which a tolerably good walker will 
traverse in an hour, clear of 'halts ', and having regard to the difficulty of the 
. ground. 

ft. — for feet. The heights of mountains, &c, are given in English feet 
above the level of the sea, as well as in metres. 

m. — for miles and metres. Unless otherwise expressed, distances are given 
in English statute miles. 

r. , 1. — for right and left. The right side of a valley, stream, or glacier is 
that lying on the right hand of a person following the downward course of the 
stream. 

Names of places are referred in the Index to the pages where some useful 
information respecting them is to be found. 

For information as to Hotels, see the Index. 

Throughout this work the reader is frequently referred for further informa- 
tion to the Section and Route where this is to be found. When the reference 
is made to a passage occurring in the same Section, the Route alone is men- 
tioned. 



xii 



PRELIMINARY NOTES TO THE WESTERN ALPS. 

I. BOOKS RELATING TO THE WESTERN ALPS. 

The following list is intended to include only the more important 
works relating to the Western Alps, and makes no pretension to even 
approximate completeness. Books relating exclusively to matters 
connected with the natural sciences are not here mentioned, while 
current Guide-books and Alpine periodicals have special lists to them- 
selves. In a few cases articles (other than those enumerated in the 
Introductions to the various Sections of the text of this volume) are 
mentioned, when they seem to possess considerable historical import- 
ance. A complete list of works dealing with the Swiss portions of 
the regions known as the Western Alps will be found in Herr A. 
Waber-Lindt's forthcoming Bibliography of Works on Swiss Travel 
(to be issued by the Swiss Government as part of the great 1 Biblio- 
graphic der Schweizerischen Landeskunde '), which entirely super- 
sedes vol. i. (1785) of G. E. von Haller's 6 Bibliothek der Schweizer- 
Geschichte.' A very fairly complete list of books and articles relating 
to the Italian portions of the Maritime, Cottian, and part of the 
Graian Alps is given in the first two parts (1889) of Signori Martelli 
and Vaccarone's ' Guida delle Alpi Occidentali ' (Turin). An excellent 
Bibliography of the Chain of Mont Blanc is to be found in M. Louis 
Kurz's ' Guide de la Chaine du Mont-Blanc 5 (Neuchatel, 1892). 
This is not reproduced in the English edition of this work in the 
4 Climbers' Guides' series, while one for the Dauphine Alps is given 
in MM. Coolidge, Duhamel, and Perrin's 'Guide du Haut-Dauphine ? 
(Grenoble, 1887). Special bibliographies of the various peaks and 
passes will be found in the volumes of the ' Climbers' Guides ' series 
(London, from 1890 onwards). 

Albert^ Aristide. Le Pays Brianconnais, Grenoble, 1887. 
Allais, G. Le Alpi Occidentali nelP Antichita. Turin, 1891. 
Aimer' 's, Christian^ Fiihrerbuch, 1856-1894. A facsimile edition. London, 
1896. 

Unauthorised edition of a valuable historical document. 
Alpi, Le, che cingono P Italia. Part i. of vol. i. alone published. Turin, 
1845, With Map and Diagrams. 



BOOKS RELATING TO THE WESTERN ALPS 



xiii 



Altmann, J. G. Versuch einer historischen und physischen Beschreibung der 

Helvetischen Eisbergen. Zurich, 175 1. 
Anderson, Etistace. Chamouni and Mont Blanc. London, 1856. 
Ardouin-Dumazet. Voyage en France. Paris. 

The volumes as yet published which describe the Western Alps are :— 
viii. Le Rhone du Leman a la Mer, 1896; ix. Bas-Dauphine, 1896; 
x. Les Alpes du Leman a la Durance, 1897 ; and xii. Alpes de 
Provence et Alpes Maritimes, 1897. 
Arnaud, Henri. Histoire de la Glorieuse Rentree des Vaudois dans leurs 
Vallees. s. I. 17 10. 
The most convenient reprint is that by Fick, Geneva, 1879. An Eng- 
lish translation, by H. D. Acland, was published in London in 1827. 
Arnod, P. A. Relation des Passages de tout le Circuit du Duche d'Aoste 
venant des Provinces circonvoisines, avec une description sommaire des 
Montagnes, 1 691 -4. 
This most interesting MS. is preserved in the State Archives at Turin. 
Portions of it have been published by Signor Vaccarone in the 6 Bollet- 
tino ? for 1880 and 1881. and in his work on c Le Vie delle Alpi 
Occidentali,' and by Signor Bobba, in the ' Bollettino 5 for 1890. Mr. 
Coolidge's copy — made at his own cost and for his own use — covers 
sixty-six MS. folios. It is to be hoped that some day this JtfS. may 
be published in its entirety. 
Arve, Stephen d? (really E. de Catelin). Les Fastes du Mont-Blanc. 

Geneva, 1876. 
Aubert, Edouard. La Vallee d'Aoste. Paris, i860. 

Auldjo, J. Narrative of an Ascent to the Summit of Mont Blanc on the 8th 

and 9th of August, 1827. London, 1828. 
Later editions in 1830 and 1856. 
Bakewell, R. Travels, comprising Observations made during a Residence in 

the Tarentaise and various parts of the Grecian and Pennine Alps, and in 

Switzerland and Auvergne in the Years 1820-2. 2 vols. London, 

1823. 

Baretti, M. Per Rupi e Ghiacci. Turin, 1876. 
Baretti, M. II Ghiacciaio del Miage. ' 

Article in the 6 Memoirs' of the Academy of Sciences of Turin, 1880. 
Beattie, W. The Waldenses, or Protestant Valleys of Piedmont, Dauphine, 

&c. Fine illustrations. London, 1838. 
Beaufoy, Colonel. Narrative of a Journey from the Village of Chamounix, in 

Switzerland, to the Summit of Mont Blanc, undertaken on August 8, 

1787. 

Article in the 6 Annals of Philosophy ' for February, 181 7. 
Beaumont, J. F. Albanis. Travels through the Maritime Alps from Italy to 

Lyons over the Col de Tende. London, 1795. 
Beaumont, J. F. Albanis. Description des Alpes Grecques et Cottiennes, ou 

Tableau Historique de la Savoie. 2 vols, in 4 parts. With Atlas. 

Paris, 1802-6. 



xiv PRELIMINARY NOTES TO THE WESTERN ALPS 



Beaumont, J. F. A /dams. Travels through the Lepontine Alps from Lyons 
to Turin by way of the Great St. Bernard. London, 1800. 

Beaumont, J. F. Albanis. Voyage Pittoresque aux Alpes Pennines. 
Geneva, 1787. 

Beaupre, Julien de. Account of his Ascent of the Mont Aiguille in 1492. 
Reprinted in vol. vi. of the 6 Annuaire de la Societe des Touristes du 
Dauphine. ' 

Berlepsch, H. A. Die Alpen in Natur und Lebensbildern. Leipzig, 1861 ; 

5th edition, Jena, 1885. English translation by Leslie Stephen, 1861. 
Berndt, G. Das Val d'Anniviers und das Bassin de Sierre. Gotha, 1882. 

Supplement No. 66 to Petermann's c Mittheilungen.' 
Bianchetti, Enrico. L'Ossola Inferiore : notizie storiche e documenti. 

2 vols, (one of text and one of original documents.) Turin, 1878. 
Betha, Le Chanoine. Valgrisanche : notices historiques. Aosta, 1877. 
Bonnefoy,J. A., and Perrin, A. Le Prieure de Chamonix : documents 

relatifs au Prieure et a la Vallee de Chamonix. 2 vols. Chambery, 1879 

and 1883. 

Bonney, T. G. Outline Sketches in the High Alps of Dauphine. London, 
1865. 

Bonney, T. G. The Alpine Regions of Switzerland and the Neighbouring 

Countries. London, 1868. 
Bonstetten, Albert von. Superioris Germaniae Confcederationis Descriptio. 
The first description of Switzerland, 1479 : the Latin and German texts 
have been well edited in vol. xiii., 1893, of the ' Quellen zur 
Schweizer Geschichte,' published at Basel. 
Bordier, A. C. Voyage Pittoresque aux Glacieres de Savoye. Fait en 1772. 
Geneva, 1773. 

Bourcet, P. J. de. Memoires Militaires sur les Frontieres de la France, du 
Piemont, et de la Savoie, depuis l'Embouchure du Var jusqu'au Lac de 
Geneve. Paris and Berlin, 1801. 
Only partly by M. de Bourcet. 
Bourrit, M. T. Description des Glacieres, Glaciers, et Amas de Glace du 
Duche de Savoye. Geneva, 1773, 
There are three English translations by C. and F. Davy, which were 
issued, 1775-6, at Norwich and Dublin. 
Bourrit, M. T. Description des Aspects du Mont-Blanc du cote de la Val 

d'Aost. Lausanne, 1776. 
Bourrit, M. T. Description des Alpes Pennines et Rhetiennes. 2 vols. 
Geneva, 1 78 1. 

In 1783 this work was reissued at Geneva under the title of ' Nouvelle 
Description des Vallees de Glace, 5 and again in 1785, in 3 vols., under 
the title of e Nouvelle Description Generate et Particuliere des 
Glacieres, Vallees de Glace, et Glaciers qui forment la grande chaine 
des Alpes de Suisse, dTtalie, et de Savoye.' 
Bourrit, M. T. Description des Cols ou Passages des Alpes. 2 vols. Geneva, 
1803. 



BOOKS RELATING TO THE WESTERN ALPS 



Bracket, Francois. Dictionnaire du Patois Savoyard tel qu'il est parie dans 
le Canton d'Albertville. Albertville, 1883. 
New and much enlarged edition, Albertville, 1889. 
Brentari, O. Dante Alpinista (article in the ' Bollettino - of the Italian 

Alpine Club for 1887). 
Bresslau, H. Zur Geschichte der deutschen Gemeinden im Gebiet des 

Monte Rosa und im Ossolathal (article in the 6 Zeitschrift der Gesell- 

schaft furErdkunde zu Berlin,' vol. xvi. part 3, 1881). 
Brockedon, W. Illustrations of the Passes of the Alps by which Italy 

communicates with France, Switzerland, and Germany. 2 vols. London, 

1828-9. 

Brockedon, W. Journals of Excursions in the Alps : the Pennine, Graian, 
Cottian, Rhetian, Lepontian, and Bernese. London, 1833. 
3rd edition in 1845. 
Brockedon, W. Extracts from the Journal of an Alpine Traveller. 

Five important articles in ' Blackwood's Magazine,' January, March, April, 
May, and August 1836, describing the Col de l'Autaret, the Col du 
Mont, the Col della Reale, the Fenetre de Champorcher, the Col de 
Clapier, the Col de la Galise, the Col de Nivolet, the Col dTseran, 
and the Col de la Roue : all quite distinct from his two books 
mentioned above. 

Browne, G. F. {now Bishop of Bristol.) Ice -Caves of France and Switzer- 
land. A Narrative of Subterranean Exploration. London, 1865. 

Browne, G. F. {now Bishop of Bristol.) Off the Mill: some Occasional 
Papers. London, 1895. 

Browne, J. D. H. Ten Scenes in the Last Ascent of Mont Blanc. London, 
1853. 

Brun-Durand, J. Dictionnaire Topographique du Departement de la 
Drome, comprenant les noms de lieu anciens et modernes. Paris 
(Imprimerie Nationale), 189 1. 
Brunei de PArgentiere, Jean. Le Brianconnais en 1754. 

Printed in vol. xviii., 1892, of the * Annuaire de la Societe des Touristes 
du Dauphine.' 

Bulwer, J. R. Extracts from my Journal. Norwich (privately printed), 
1853. 

Burch, Lambert van der. Sabaudorum ducum principumque historian 
gentilitiae. Leyden, 1599. 

The Elzevir edition (Leyden, 1634) is entitled < Sabaudiaa Respublica 
et Historia.' 

Burckhardt, J. R. Untersuchungen iiber die erste Bevolkerung des Alpen- 
gebirgs, insbesondere der schweizerischen Urkantone, des Berner Ober- 
land, und des Oberwallis. 

Article in vol. iv. of the 4 Archiv fur Schweizerische Geschichte,' Zurich, 
1846. 



xvi PRELIMINARY NOTES TO THE WESTERN ALPS 



Bw-naby, Mrs. (now Mrs. Main. ) The High Alps in Winter ; or* 

Mountaineering in Search of Health. London, 1883. 
Burnaby, Mrs. {now Mrs. Mam.) High Life and Towers of Silence. 

London, 1886. 

Butler, Samuel. Alps and Sanctuaries of Piedmont and the Canton Ticino. 
London, 1882. 

Chabrand, J. A., and Rochas dAighm, A. de. Patois des Alpes Cottiennes 
(Brianconnaiset Vallees Vaudoises), et en particulier du Queyras. Grenoble 
and Paris, 1877. 

Cole, Mrs. H. IV. A Lady's Tour Round Monte Rosa ; with Visits to the 
Italian Valleys of Anzasca, Mastalone, Camasco, Sesia, Lys, Challant, 
Aosta, and Cogne. In a series of Excursions in the years 1850-56-58. 
London, 1859. 

Coleman, E. T. Scenes from the Snow Fields ; being Illustrations from the 

Upper Ice- World of Mont Blanc. London, 1859. 
Comba, Emile. Histoire des Vaudois dTtalie. Paris and Turin. 

Vol. i. — Avant la Reforme — of the original appeared in 1887, and in an 
English translation in 1889. 
Conway, Sir Martin. The Alps from End to End. London, 1895. 
Coolidge, W. A. B. Swiss Travel and Swiss Guide-Books. London, 1889. 
Contains a history of Swiss Guide-Books, of Alpine Inns, and ofZermatt, 
with a Bibliography of Books of Swiss Travel. 
Coolidge, W. A. B. The Saracens in the Alps. 

Two articles in vols. ix. and x. of the e Alpine Journal. ' The author does 
not now accept the theory of a Saracen colony in the Valley of Saas. 
Coolidge, W. A. B. Quelques Noms de Lieux dans la Vallee de Saas. 

Article relating to the names Mischabel, Fee, &c. , in the < Anzeiger fur 
Schweizer Geschichte,' No. 6, 1896, and No. 1, 1897, Berne. 
Corona, G. Picchi e Burroni. Turin, 1876. 
Corona, G. Aria di Monti. Rome, 1880. 

Cory ate, T, Coryat's Crudities hastily gobled up in five moneths Travells in 
France, Savoy, Italy, Rhetia, comonly called the Gryson's country : 
Helvetia, alias Switzerland, some parts of High Germany, and the 
Netherlands. London, 1608. (Reprinted in three vols, in 1776.) 
Cowell, J. J. The Graian Alps and Mount Iseran. 

Article in 'Vacation Tourists and Notes of Travel in i860.' London, 
1 861. 

Coxe, W, Travels in Switzerland and in the Country of the Grisons. 3 vols. 
London, 1801. 

This edition — the 4th — of this classical work is the best. 
Cunningham, C. D., and Abney, W. de W. The Pioneers of the Alps. 
London, 1887. (2nd edition, 1888. ) 
Lives of Famous Guides. 
Daudet, Alphonse. Tartarin sur les Alpes. Paris, 1885. (English transla- 
tion, same date.) 



BOOKS RELATING TO THE WESTERN ALPS 



xvii 



Deluc^J. A., and Dentan, P. G. Relation de Differents Voyages dans les 

Alpes du Faucigny. Maestricht, 1776. 
Deluc, J. A. Lettres Physiques et Morales sur les Montagnes. The Hague, 

1778. 

Dent, Clinton T. Above the Snow Line. Mountaineering Sketches between 

1870 and 1880. London, 1885. 
Desjardins, Ernest. Geographie;Historique et Administrative de la Gaule 

Romaine. 4 vols. Paris, 1 876- 1893. 
Desor, E. Excursions et Sejours dans les Glaciers et les Hautes Regions des 

Alpes de M. Agassiz et de ses compagnons de voyage. 2 series. Neu- 

chatel and Paris, 1844 and 1845. 
Dhellancourt. Observations Mineralogiques faites dans le Dauphine, depuis 

la source de la Romanche jusqu'a la plaine de l'Oisans, en aout et 

septembre, 1785. 

Reprinted in vol. xvii. — 189 1 — of the ' Annuaire de la Societe des 
Touristes du Dauphine.' 
Dollfus-Ausset. Ascensions dans les Hautes Regions des Alpes. Strasburg, 
1864. 

This book — which contains reprints of many narratives of early ascents 
— forms vol. ii. of the author's ' Materiaux pour l'Etude des Glaciers, 
in 8 vols. 

Diibi, H. Four articles on the Romans in the Alps and the Passes used by 
them (in vols, xvi., xvii., xix., and xx. of the ( Jahrbuch ' of the Swiss 
Alpine Club). 

Duhn, F. von. Die Beniitzung der Alpenpasse im Alterthum. 

Article in the ' Neue Heidelberger Jahrbucher,' vol. ii. part I. Heidel- 
berg, 1892. 

Dumas ; Alexandre. Impressions de Voyage — Suisse. Paris, 1833 or 1834. 
Durier, Charles. Le Mont-Blanc. Paris, 1877. 
4th edition, 1897. 

Eckenstein, O., and Lorria, A. The Alpine Portfolio — The Pennine Alps 
from the Simplon to the Great St. Bernard. London, 1889. 
A splendid collection of photographs of the Central and Eastern 
Pennines. 

Engelhardt, C. M. Naturschilderungen, Sittenziige, und wissenschaftliche 
Bemerkungen aus den hochsten Schweizer-Alpen, besonders in Siid- 
Wallis und Graubiinden. Paris, Strasburg, and Basel, 1840. 

Engelhardt, C. M. Das Monte-Rosa und Matterhorn- (Mont Cervin)- 
Gebirg aus der Inseite seines Erhebungsbogen gen Nord : seine Auslaufer 
und Umgrenzung, besonders der Saasgrat mit dem Mischabeldom iiber 
dem Gletscherkrater von Fee. Paris and Strasburg, 1852. 
Both works have maps and illustrations. 

Fauche-P?'unelle, A. Etude sur les Anciennes Institutions Autonomes on 
Populaires des Alpes Cottiennes-Brianconnaises. 2 vols. Grenoble and 
Paris, 1856-7. 

I. a 



xviii PRELIMINARY NOTES TO THE WESTERN ALPS 



Favre, Alphonse. Recherches Geologiques dans les parties de la Savoie, du 
Piemont, et de la Suisse, voisines du Mont-Blanc. 3 vols., with atlas. 
Paris, 1867. 
Has much topographical information. 
Favre, Ca??iille. Etude sur l'Histoire des Passages Italo-Suisses du Haut- 
Valais entre le Simplon et Mont -Rose. 
Article in vol. viii. — 1883 — of the New Series of the c Jahrbuch ftir 
Schweizerische Geschichte. ' 
Fellows^ Sir Charles. A Narrative of an Ascent to the Summit of Mont Blanc. 
London, 1827. 

Ferrand, H. Histoire du Mont Iseran. Grenoble, 1893. 

Ferrand, H. La Frontiere Franco-Italienne entre le Mont Thabor et le 

Petit Saint Bernard. Grenoble, 1894. 
Fe?-rand, H. Les Montagnes de la Grande Chartreuse. Grenoble, 1898. 
Fischer, A. K. Die Hunnen im Schweizerischen Eifischthale. Zurich, 

1896. 

Forbes, James D. Travels r in the Alps of Savoy and other parts of trie 
Pennine Chain. Edinburgh and London, 1843. 

'2nd edition, 1845. An abridgment was issued in 1855 under the title 
of ' The Tour of Mont Blanc and of Monte Rosa.' 
Forbes, James D. Norway and its Glaciers visited in 185 1 ; followed by 
Journals of Excursions in the High Alps of Dauphine, Berne, and Savoy. 
London, 1853. 

Forbes, James D. The Topography of the Chain of Mont Blanc. 

Article in trie ' North British Review ' for March 1865. 
Forbes, Janies D. Life and Letters. By J. C. Shairp, P. G. Tait, and A. 

Adams-Reilly. London, 1873. 
Forbes, -Sir John. A Physician's Holiday, or a Month in Switzerland in 
the Summer of 1848. London, 1849. 
2nd edition, 1850. 

Forjiier, Marcellin. Histoire Generale des Alpes Maritimes et Cottiennes, et 
Particuliere de leur Metropolitaine Embrun. 3 vols. Paris and Gap, 
1890. 

First printed edition. 
Fozirnier, Paul. Le Royaume d'Arles et de Vienne (1138-1378). Paris, 
1890. 

Francesetti, Louis, Comte de Mezzeiiile. Lettres sur les Vallees de Lanzo. 
Turin, 1823. 

Freshfield, Douglas W. Across Country from Thonon to Trent : Rambles 
and Scrambles in Switzerland and the Tyrol. London, 1865 (privately 
printed). 

Freshjield, Douglas TV. The Mountains of Dante. 

Article in vol. x. of the 4 Alpine Journal. ' 
Freshfield, Dotiglas IV. The Pass of Hannibal. 

Two articles in vols. xi. and xiii. of the 4 Alpine Journal. ' 



BOOKS RELATING TO THE WESTERN ALPS 



xix 



Freshfield, Mrs. Henry. Alpine Byways, or Light Leaves gathered in 1859 
and i860. London, 186 1. \\ 

Frobel, Julius. Reise in den weniger bekannten Thaler auf der Nordseite 
der Penninischen Alpen. Berlin, 1840. 

Fuc/zs, Josef. Hannibals Alpeniibergang : ein Studien- und Reiseergebnis. 
Vienna, 1897. 

Fwrer, Sigismund. Geschichte, Statistik, und Urkunden-Sammlung liber 
Wallis. 3 vols. Sion, 1850-2. 
Somewhat antiquated, yet still indispensable for its local information. 
Gay, Hilaire. Histoire du Vallais. 2 vols. Paris and Geneva, 1888-9. 
Gillieron, J. Patois de la Commune de Vionnaz (Bas-Valais). Paris, 1880. 
Fascicule 40 of the 'Bibliotheque del'Ecole des Hautes Etudes — Sciences 
Historiques et Philologiques. ' , , , 
Gilly, W. S. A Memoir of Felix Neff, Pastor of the High Alps. London, 
1855. 

Gilly, W. S. Narrative of an Excursion to the Mountains of Piedmont, 

3rd edition. London, 1826. 
Gingins-La-Sarraz, Fred. de. Developpement de lTndependance du Haut- 
Vallais, et Conquete du Bas- Vallais. 
Articles in vols. ii. and iii. of the * Archiv fiir Schweizerische Geschichte, 9 
Zurich, 1844-5. The separate reprint lacks the * Pieces Justificatives. ' 
Gingins-La-Sarraz, Fred. de. Documents pour servir a l'histoire des Comtes 
de Biandrate, recueillis dans les Archives du Vallais, et precedes d'une 
Notice. 

Article in the ' Memoirs ' of the Academy of Sciences of Turin, 2nd 
series, vol. x., Turin, 1847. 
Gingins-La Sarraz, Fred. de. Memoires pour servir a l'histoire des Royaumes 
de Provence et de Bourgogne-Jurane. 
Articles in vols. vii. , viii. , and fx. of the { Archiv fiir Schweizerische 
Geschichte,' Zurich, 1851-3. 
Gioffredo. Storia delle Alpi Marittime. Turin, 1839. 

Gtordani, G. La Colonia Tedesca di Alagna-Valsesia, e il suo dialetto. 

Turin, 1891. . v 

Giordani, P. Prima Ascensione alia Punta Giordani nel i8ox. 

Letter in the 6 Bollettino ' of the . Italian Alpine Club, No. 17, 1870, 
Turin. 

Girdlestone, A. G. The High Alps Without Guides. London, 1870. 
Gnifetti, G. Nozioni Topografiche del Monte Rosa, ed Ascensioni su di 

esso. 2nd edition. No vara, 1858. fl 
Golnitz, Abraham. Le Dauphine et la Maurienne au XVII e Siecle. 
Extracts translated and annotated by A. Mace. Grenoble, 1858. 
The original work is entitled 4 Ulysses Belgico-Gallicus per Belgium, 
Hispan. , Regnum Galliae, Ducat. Sabaudiae, Turinum usque Pede- 
montii Metropolin.' Elzevirs in 1 63 1 at Leyden and in 1655 at 
Amsterdam. ,< J 

a 2 



PRELIMINARY NOTES TO THE WESTERN ALPS 



Gorret, Ante. Victor Emmanuel sur les Alpes. Turin, 1878. - 
Gremaud, J. Documents relatifs k 1'Histoire du Vallais, 300-1431. Lausanne. 
7 vols., 1875-1894. 
This most valuable collection forms part of the ' Memoires et Documents ' 
published by the 4 Societe d'Histoire de la Suisse Romande. ' 
Grube, A. Alpenwanderungen. 2 vols. Oberhausen, 1872. 

New editions at Leipzig, 1874 and 1886. (1 vol.) 
Gruner, G. S. Die Eisgebirge des Schweizerlandes. 3 vols. Bern, 1760. 
2nd edition in 2 vols., 1778, under the title of ' Reisen durch die merk- 
wiirdigsten Gegenden Helvetiens. ' French translation by M. de 
Keralio at Paris in 1770. 
Guillemin, Paul. Les Coutumes d'Arvieux. Lyon?, 1880. 
Guillemin, Paul. Les Voies Anciennes des Glaciers du Pelvoux. Paris, 
1887. 

Article in vol. xiii. of the * Annuaire ' of the French Alpine Club ; 
the reprint contains reproductions of two most interesting old maps. 
Guillemin, Paul. Tommaso Borgonio, et la Premiere Carte Topo- 
graphique des Alpes Occidentales (Dauphine, Piemont, Provence, Savoie). 
Paris, 1 89 1. 

The same author has privately printed, in very small numbers, unfortu- 
nately, many tracts relating to the early history of travel in 
Dauphine, and to the early maps of that region. 
Gussfeldt, Paul. In den Hochalpen. Erlebnisse aus den Jahren 1859-1885. 

Berlin, 1886. 
Gussfeldt, Paul. Der Montblanc. Berlin, 1894. 

Hamel, J. von. Relation de deux Tentatives Recentes pour monter sur le 
Mont Blanc. 

Article in the 4 Bibliotheque Universelle ' of Geneva for August 
1820. A German translation appeared as a 'separate pamphlet at 
Basel in 1820. 

Hamel) J. von. Beschreibung zweyer Reisen auf den Montblanc unter- 

nommen in August 1820. 
Article in the * Conversationsblatt 5 of Vienna, 1 821. 
JTawes, B. Narrative of an Ascent to the Summit of Mont Blanc made 

during the Summer of 1827 by Mr. W. Hawes and Mr. C. Fellows. 

London, 1828. 

Heierli, and Oechsli, W, Urgeschichte des Wallis. Zurich, 1896. 

This monograph forms part 3 of vol. xxiv. of the * Mittheilungen der 
antiquarischen Gesellschaft in Zurich. ' 
Heusler, Andreas. Rechtsquellen des Cantons Wallis. Basel, 1890. 
Most valuable for its constitutional and detailed local information. 
« Hinchliff, T. W. Summer Months among the Alps ; with the Ascent of 
Monte Rosa. London, 1857. 
Hirzel-Escher. Wanderungen in weniger besuchte Alpengegenden der 
Schweiz, und ihrer nachsten Umgebungen. Zurich, 1829. 



BOOKS RELATING TO THE WESTERN ALPS 



xxi 



Hoppeler, R. R. Beitrage zur Geschichte des Wallis im Mittelalter. Zurich, 
1897. 

Hort, F. J. A. Life and Letters. By A. F. Hort. 2 vols. London, 
1896. 

Many interesting letters relating to early climbing. 
Hudson, C. , and Kennedy, E. S. Where there's a Will there's a Way : an 
Ascent of Mont Blanc by a New Route and Without Guides. London, 
1856. 

In the 2nd edition, also issued in 1856, there were added narratives of 
Mr. Hudson's attempt on Monte Rosa in 1854, and of the first ascent 
in 1855, by Mr. Hudson and his friends. 
Lsaia, C. Al Monviso per Val di Po e Val di Varaita : Reminiscenze Alpine. 
Turin, 1874. 

Javelle, E. Souvenirs d'un Alpiniste. Lausanne, 1886. 

2nd edition, 1892 ; 3rd edition, 1897. 
Kilian, W. Etude Orographique sur les Alpes de la Basse Maurienne. 

Article in vol. xxii. of the ' Annuaire de la Societe des Touristes du 
Dauphine. ' Grenoble, 1897. The special bibliographies of the 
several peaks and passes were compiled by Mr. Coolidge. 
King, S. W. The Italian Valleys of the Pennine Alps : a Tour through all 
the Romantic and less-frequented £ Vals ' of Northern Piedmont, from the 
Tarentaise to the Gries. London, 1858. 
La Blottiere. Memoire concernant les Frontieres de France, Savoie, et Pie- 

mont. Edited by H. Duhamel. Grenoble, 1891. 
Ladoucette, J. C. F. Histoire, Topographie, Antiquites, Usages, Dialectes 
des Hautes Alpes. With an Atlas. Paris, 1820. 
2nd edition, 1834 ; the best edition is the 3rd, issued in 1848. 
Lendenfeld, R. von. Die Westalpen. Prague, Vienna, and Leipzig, 1896. 
Le Pays. Nouvelles (Euvres de M. Le Pays. Amsterdam, 1674. 

Contains a very curious letter dated from Chamonix in 1669. 
Leschevin, P. X. Voyage a Geneve et a la Vallee de Chamouni en Savoie. 

Paris and Geneva, 181 2. 
Levasseur, E. Les Alpes et les Grandes Ascensions. Paris, 1889. 
Longman, W. Modern Mountaineering and the History of the Alpine Club. 

Issued as an Appendix to vol. viii., 1876-8, of the ' Alpine Journal.' 
Mader, Fritz. Die hochsten Teile der Seealpen und der Ligurischen 
Alpen in physiographischer Beziehung. Leipzig, 1897. 
Expansion of the author's article in the 6 Bollettino ' of the Italian 
Alpine Club for 1895-6. 
Magnin, B. N. Ascension aux Aiguilles d'Arves en 1839. St. Jean de 
Maurienne, 1878. 
Reprinted in vol. xviii. of the 6 Alpine Journal. ' 
Main, Mrs. See ' Burnaby, Mrs.' 
Malkin, A. T. Leaves from his Diary, 1839- 1856. 

Printed in the 'Alpine Journal,' vol. xv. They contain much interesting 
information as to early climbingo 



xxii PRELIMINARY NOTES TO THE WESTERN ALPS 



Manno, A., and Promts, V. Bibliografia Storica degli Stati della Monarchia 
di Savoia. Turin. 
A work in many volumes in process of publication since 1884. 
Marsh, Herbert. Two Seasons in Switzerland. London, 1895. 
Mart el, P. Voyage aux Glacieres du Faucigny (1742). 

Printed, in the ' Echo des Alpes ' for 1879, by T. Dufour : for the 
English version see under ' Windham,' 
Martin, David. Excursions Geologiques dans les Vallees Limitrophes de 
1'Ubaye, et de la Durance, et sur la Frontiere Italienne. Gap, 1888. 
Contains much valuable topographical information as to a little known 
part of the Alpine chain. 
Martin- Franklin. Se& ' Vaccaronei ' • 

A/enabrea, Leon. Des Origines Feodales dans les Alpes Occidentales. 

Turin (Imprimerie Royale), 1865. 
Monson, Lord. Views in the Department of the Isere and the High Alps, 

chiefly designed to illustrate the Memoirs of Felix Neff. London, 1840. 
Montannel, De. La Topographie Militaire de la Frontiere des Alpes. 

Grenoble, 1875. 

Forms vol. hi. of the ' Documents Inedits relatifs au Dauphine,' 
published by the 1 Academie Delphinale,' and edited by M. de Rochas 
d'Aiglun. 

Montet, Edotiard. Histoire Litteraire des Vaudois du Piemont. Paris, 1885. 
Moore, A. W. The Alps in 1864. A Private Journal. 

Privately printed, 1867. 
Morozzo, Le Comte. Sur la Mesure des Principaux Points des Etats du Roi 
et de leur veritable Elevation au-dessus du niveau de la Mer. 
Article in the 1 Memoirs ' of the Academy of Sciences of Turin, vol. i. 
1788-9, in which he describes the first attempt made to ascend Monte 
Rosa, See * Alpine Journal, * ix. p. 496. 
Milller, Karl. Die Waldenser und ihre einzelnen Gruppen bis zum Anfang 

des 14. Jahrhunderts. Gotha, 1886. 
Mummery A. F. My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus. London, 1895. 
Munsler, Sebastian. Cosmographia Universalis. 

First German edition, at Basel, in 1544 ; first Latin edition, at Basel, in 
1550. Many later ones in both tongues. 
Muritk,/. L. First Ascent of the Mont Velan, 1779. 

See his account in vol. i. of Bourrit's 1 781 book. 
Needham. Observations des Hauteurs faites avec le Barometre au Mois 
d'Aout, 1 75 1 sur une Partie des Alpes. Berne, 1760. 
Has a map of Mont Pourri, which he thought the highest mountain in 
Europe. See ' Revue Alpine,' i. 227. 
Neumann, L. Die deutschen Gemeinden in Piemont. Freiburg i/B. , 1891. 
Nicollet, F. N. Etudes sur les Patois du Midi de la France. Gap, 1897. 
Novaliciense, Chronicon. Edited by Bethmann. Hanover, 1846. 

Contains the account of an eleventh-century attempt on the Rochemelon. 



BOOKS RELATING TO THE WESTERN ALPS 



Oehlmann, E. Die Alpenpasse im Mittelalter. Zurich, 1878-9. 

Articles in vols. iii. and iv. of the New Series of the ' Archiv fiir 
Schweizerische Geschichte. ' 
Operations Geodesiques et Astrono?niques pour la Mesure oVun Arc du 
Parallele Moyen, executeesen Piemont et Savoie par une Commission com- 
posee d'Ofnciers de l'Etat Major General et d'Astronomes piemontais et 
autrichiens en 1821-3. 
2 vols. With Maps and Panoramas,, Milan, 1825-7. 
Paccard, Michel. Premier Voyage fait a la Cime de la plus Haute Montagne 
du Continent. Lausanne, 1786. 
Mentioned by Durier, p. 109, note,, but no copy has as yet been dis- 
covered. 

Parrot, Friedrich. Ueber die Schneegranze auf den mittaglichen Seite des 
Rosagebirges, und barometrische Messungen. 
Article in Schweigger's ' Journal f. Chemie u. Physik,' vol. xix. part 4. 
Nuremberg, 181 7, 

Payot, Venance. Oscillations des quatre grands glaciers de, la Vallee de 
Chamonix, et Enumeration des Ascensionnistes au Mont-Blanc. Lausanne, 
1867. 

2nd edition, Geneva, 1879 : another in 1884. 
Peaks ; Passes, and Glaciers. A Series of Excursions by Members of the 
Alpine Club. 1st Series, edited by John Ball, London, 1859. 2nd Series, 
2 vols., edited by E. S. Kennedy, London, 1862. 
There were four editions of the 1st Series* all in 1859, while a fifth or 
' Knapsack' edition of this volume was issued in 18,60, and a partial 
French translation, by Elise Dufour, appeared at Paris in 1862, under 
the title of ' Les Grimpeurs des Alpes. ' 
Perrin, A. Histoire de la, Vallee et du Prieure de Chamonix t du io e au iS e 
Siecle. Chambery,. 1887. 
For the ' Documents ' see under ' Bonnefcy. ' 
Perrin, Le Colonel. Marche d'Annibal des Pyrenees au P6. Paris and 
Metz, 1887. 

Perrin, Le Colonel. Topographie et Defense des. Alpes Franchises. Peri- 
gueux, 1894, 

Petrarch, F. Ascent of the Mont Ventoux in 1336. 

See his ' De Rebus Familiaribus, ' Libr. iv. Epistola I. 
Petdingeriana, Tabula. The best reproduction of this, famous old map is that 

by Dr. Konrad Miller, published (with text) at Ravensburg in 1888, under 

the name of ' Die Weltkarte des Castorius. ' 
Pezay, Marquis de. Description des Vallees des Grandes Alpes : Dauphine, 

Provence, Italic 

This work was originally published under the title of ' Noms, Situation, 
et Details des Vallees de la France le long des Grandes Alpes dans le 
Dauphine et la Provence,' in French — at Grenoble — and Italian — at 
Turin — in 1793, but the most convenient edition is that published at 
Grenoble in 1894. 



xxiv PRELIMINARY NOTES TO THE WESTERN ALPS 



Rambert, Eugene. Ascensions et Flaneries. Lausanne, 2 vols. 1888. 

A complete edition of the mountaineering sections of the * Alpes Suisses 9 
published by the Author. 
Rameau, Abbe B. Le Vallais Historique. Sion, 1886. 

Key, M. L'Ancien Royaume de Cottius, et la Province des Alpes Cottiennes 

de Cesar a Diocletien (B.C. 30 a 284 A.D.) Grenoble, 1898. 
Rivail, Aymar du. Description du Dauphine, de la Savoie, etc., au i6 e 

Siecle. Annotated edition. Grenoble, 1852. 
Robilant, Nicolis de. Essai Geographique, suivid'une Topographie Souterraine, 

Mineralogique, et d'une Docimasie des Etats de Sa Majeste en Terreferme. 
Paper in the i Memoirs ' of the Academy of Sciences of Turin, 1784-5. 
Roc has d'Aighm, A. de. Les Vallees Vaudoises : Etude de Topographie et 

d'Histoire Militaires. With a Map in rive colours. Paris, 1881. 
Rochas d Aiglun, A. de. La Campagne de 1692 dans le Haut Dauphine. 

Paris and Grenoble, 1874. 
Rochas d'Aighm, A. de. See also under Chabrand and Montannel. 
Rochefoucauld d'Enville, Due de la. Voyage des Glacieres de Savoie en 

1762. 

Printed in vol. xx., 1893, °f ^ e ' Annuaire ' of the French Alpine 
Club. 

Ro??ian, J. Dictionnaire Topographique du Departement des Hautes Alpes, 
comprenant les noms de lieu anciens et mod ernes. Imprimerie Nationale, 
Paris, 1884. 

Roman, J. Tableau Historique du Departement des Hautes Alpes. 2 vols. 

Paris and Grenoble, 1887 and 1890. 
Roman, J. Repertoire Archeologique du Departement des Hautes Alpes. 
Imprimerie Nationale. Paris, 1888. 
These four volumes together form perhaps the most splendid historical 
monograph ever published on an Alpine district. 
Roussillon, J. H. Etude sur l'Ancienne Voie Romaine de l'Oisans. Grenoble, 
1865. 

The Author published an ' Etude nouvelle et plus complete ' on the same 
subject at Grenoble, 1878. 
Rude?i, Joseph. Familien-Statistik der loblichen Pfarrei von Zermatt. 

Ingenbohl, 1870. 
Ruppen, P. J. Die Chronik des Thales Saas. Sion, 185 1. 
Saint- Gem's, V. de. Histoire de Savoie. 3 vols. Chambery, 1868-9. 
Saint-Robert, Count Paul de. Una Salita alia Torre d' Ovarda. Turin, 1873. 
Saint- Ro??mie. L'Oisans et La Berarde. Paris and Grenoble, 1893. 
Saint- Romme. Le Pelvoux. Paris and Grenoble, 1896. 

Two booklets admirably illustrated. 
Sausswe, H. B. de. Voyages dans les Alpes. 4 vols. Neuchatel and 
Geneva, 1779-96. 

There is also an 8vo. edition — that named above is a 4to. edition — pub- 
lished at Neuchatel, 1780-96. There have been several issues of the 
' Partie Pittoresque ' of this work from 1834 onwards. 



BOOKS RELATING TO THE WESTERN ALPS 



XXV 



Savj- Lopez, Maria. Leggende sulle Alpi. Turin, 1889. 

Schiner. Description du Departement du Simplon, ou de la ci-devant Re- 

publique du Valais. Sion, 1812. 
Schlagintweit , A. and H. Untersuchungen liber die physikalische Geographie 

der Alpen. 2 vols., with Atlas. Leipzig, 1850 and 1854. 
Attempt on Monte Rosa, 1851, &c. 
Schott, Albei-t, Die deutschen Colonien in Piemont. Stuttgart and Tubin- 

gen, 1842. 

Sckwarz, Bernard* Die Erschliessung der Gebirge von den altesten Zeiten 

bis auf Saussure. Leipzig, 1885. 
Sckwarz, Theodor. Ueber Fels und Firn. Leipzig, 1884. 
Sella, Vittorio, and Vallino, D. Monte Rosa e Gressoney. Biella, 1890. 
Sherwill, Markham. Historical Sketch of the Valley of Chamouni. Paris, 

1832. 

Signot, Jacques. La totale et vraye Description de tous les passaiges, lieux, 
et destroictz par lesquelz on peut facilement entrer et passer des parties de 
Gaule, que nous disons maintenant France, es parties dTtalie. Paris, 
1507. 

A 2nd edition was published in Paris in 15 15, and this has been reprinted 
in vol. x. , 1884, of the 'Annuaire de la Societe des Touristes du 
Dauphine. 3 

Simler, Josias. Vallesise Descriptio, et de Alpibus Commentarius. Zurich, 
1574. 

The most handy edition of these very important works is that issued by 
the Elzevirs at Leyden in 1633. 
Smith, Albert. The Story of Mont Blanc. London, 1853. 
Stephen, Leslie. The Playground of Europe. London, 187 1. 

2nd edition, with some changes. London, 1894. 
Studer, Bernard. Geschichte der physischen Geographie der Schweiz bis 1 81 5. 

Bern and Zurich, 1863. 
Studer, Gottlieb. Ein Ausflug in die Grajischen Alpen, 1855. 

Article describing the Col de Nivolet and the Col de la Galise, and 
published in the 4 Mittheilungen der Naturforschenden Gesellschaft in 
Bern ' for 1856. 

Studer, Gottlieb. Topographische Mittheilungen liber die Savoy er- Alpen, 

1856. 

Article describing the Cols de la Vanoise, de la Leisse, and du Palet* 
published in the same periodical for 186 1. 
Studer, Gottlieb. Der Ruitorgletscher und seine Umgebung in topographischer 
Beziehung, 1858. 

Article describing the first ascent of the Rutor, published in the same 

periodical for 1863. 
Studer, Gottlieb. Ueber Eis und Schnee. 4 vols. Bern, 1869-83. 

Vol. ii. — new edition, 1898 — gives the history of the Swiss portion of the 

Western Alps, while vol. iv. (old edition) has some additions, &c. 



xxvi PRELIMINARY NOTES TO THE WESTERN ALPS 



Studer, Gottlieb, with M. Ulrich and J. J. Weilenmann. Berg- und Gletscher- 
Fahrten in den Hochalpen der Schweiz. 2 series. Zurich, 1859 
and 1863. 

Studer, Julius. Walliser und Walser. Zurich, 1886. 

Studer, Julius. Schweizer Ortsnamen : ein historisch-etymologischer Versuch. 
Zurich, 1896. 

Stumpf, Joannes. Reisebericht aus dem Jahre 1 544. 

Printed in the 4 Quellen zur Schweizer Geschichte,' vol. vi. , 1884, at 
Zurich, and summarised in vol. xix., 1883-4, of the 4 Jahrbuch 5 of the 
Swiss Alpine Club. 

Stumpf, Joannes. Gemeiner loblicher Eydgnosschaft Stetten, Landen, und 
Volckeren Chronickwirdiger Thaatenbeschreybung. Zurich, 1 548. 
There are also editions of 1586 and 1606, the latter the best. 
Talbert, Emile. Les Alpes : etudes et souvenirs. Paris, 1880. 
Terrebasse, A. de. Notice sur les Dauphins de Viennois. Histoire de Boson 

et de ses successeurs. Vienne (France), 1875. 
Tillier, J. B. de. Historique de la Vallee d'Aoste. 2nd edition, Aosta, 1888. 
Toppffer, R. Voyages en Zigzag. Paris, 1844. 

First collected edition of ten lithographed pamphlets issued 1832-43 ; 
many later editions, latest in 1885. 
Toppffer, F. Nouveaux Voyages en Zigzag. Paris, 1853. 

Three later editions, 1854, 1865, and 1877. 
Trench, F. A Walk Round Mont Blanc. London, 1847. 
Tschudi, sEgidius. De prisca ac vera Alpina Rhaetia, cum osetero Alp- 
inarum gentium tractu descriptio. Basel, 1538. (Also in German, same 
year and place. ) 

This is probably the first published treatise exclusively devoted to the 
Alps, and contains, despite its title, a considerable amount of informa- 
tion as to the Western Alps. The map of the 1st edition has been lost, 
but not that which appeared in 1560 with the 2nd edition of the text. 
Tschudi, JEgidius. Gallia Comata. Constance, 1758. 

Published long after the author's death in 1572, 
Tuckett, F. F. Hochalpenstudien. 2 vols. Leipzig, 1873-74. 

Translation and collected edition of the author's Alpine articles, with 
maps, sketches, &c. Those on the Old Weissthor and the Signal- 
kuppe appeared in 1867 in Miss Tuckett's 'Pictures in Tyrol and 
elsewhere. ' 

Turst, Conrad. De situ Confcederatorum descriptio, 1495-7. 

The Latin and German texts were printed at Basel in vol. vi., 1884, of 
the 'Quellen zur Schweizer Geschichte, 5 together with a reproduction 
of his map, the first map of Switzerland known to exist. 
Tyndall, John. The Glaciers of the Alps. London, i860. 
Reprinted in 1896. 

Tyndall, John. Mountaineering in 1 86 1. A Vacation Tour. London, 1862. 
Tyndall, fohn. Hours of Exercise in the Alps. London, 1871. 



BOOKS RELATING TO THE WESTERN ALPS xxvii 



Ulrich, Melchior. Die Seitenthaler des Wallis und der Monte Rosa topo- 
graphisch geschildert. Zurich, 1850. See also under Studer, G. 
The earlier forms of all the articles relating to the Western Alps in the 
two works of 1850, and of 1859-1863 are to be found in vols, i.-iii., 
1849-55, of the 1 Mittheilungen der Naturforschenden Gesellschaft in 
Zurich, ' which also contains other notes not reprinted by the author. 
Umlauft, F. Die Alpen : Handbuch der gesammten Alpenkunde. Vienna, 
Pesth, and Leipzig, 1887. 
An English translation appeared in 1889. 
Uzielli % G. Leonardo da Vinci e le Alpi. 

Article in the ' Bollettino ' of the Italian Alpine Club for 1889. It con- 
tains a vast amount of interesting matter relating to Alpine history. 
Vaccarone, Luigi. Le Pertuis du Viso. Turin, 1 881. 

Vaccarone, Ltiigi. Le Vie delle Alpi Occidentali negli antichi tempi. Turin, 
1884. 

Vaccarone, Luigi. Statistica delle Prime Ascensioni nelle Alpi Occidentali. 
3rd edition, 1890. 

The earlier editions appeared in the * Bollettino' for 1885 and 1886. It 
should be noted that this list does not include the peaks of the Pelvoux 
Group, or the main mass of the Dauphine Alps. 
Vaccarone, Luigi. I Challant e loro questioni per la successione ai Feudi 

dal xii° al xix° secolo. Turin, 1893. 
Vaccarone, Luigi i, and Martin- Franklin, J. Notice Historique sur l'Ancienne 
Route de Charles Emanuel II, et les Grottes des Echelles. Chambery 
and Aix les Bains, 1887. 
Valbonnais, J. M. , Marquis de. Histoire de Dauphine, et des Princes qui 
ont porte le nom de Dauphins, particulierement de ceux de la 3 e Race. 
2 vols. Geneva, 1722. 
Vallentin, Florian. Excursions Archeologiques dans les Alpes Dauphinoises. 
Grenoble, 1877. 

Vallentm, Florian. Excursions Archeologiques dans les Alpes Cottiennes et 
Graies. 

Article in vol. vii., 1881, of the « Annuaire de la Societe des Touristes 
du Dauphine.' 

Vallentin, Florian. Les Alpes Cottiennes et Graies — Geographic Gallo- 

Romaine. Paris, 1883. 
Venetz, L. Apologie des Travaux du Glacier de Gietroz. Sion, 1820. 
Venetz, L. Memoire sur les Variations de la Temperature dans les Alpes de 

la Suisse. 

Most valuable article, containing much information as to old glacier 
passes. It appeared at Zurich in 1833 ^ n v °l- P art 2 °f tne 
4 Denkschriften der allgemeinen Schweizerischen Gesellschaft fur die 
gesammten Naturwissenschaften. ' 
Vescoz, P. Z. Notions Topographiques et Historiques sur la Vallee de Cogne, 
Florence, 1873. 



xxviii PRELIMINARY NOTES TO THE WESTERN ALPS 



Villars, Dominique. Precis d'un Voyage a La Berarde en Oisans dans les 
grandes montagnes de la province du Dauphine, Septembre, 1786. 
Printed in vol. xiii., 1886, of the £ Annuaire ' of the French Alpine Club. 
One version of this narrative appeared in Paris in 1787, in the 
' Memoires d'Agriculture, d'Economie rurale et domestique, publies 
par la Societe Royale d'Agriculture de Paris,' and another in vol. viii., 
1882, of the 6 Annuaire de la Societe des Touristes du Dauphine,' but 
the 1886 edition seems to be the most complete. 
Viollet-le-Duc, E. Le Massif du Mont-Blanc. With a Map. Paris, 1876. 

An English translation appeared in 1877. 
Viridet, Ma?r. Passage du Roth-horn, Montagne de la Vallee de Saas, en 
Valais. Geneva, 1833. 
2nd edition. Geneva, 1835. 
Viridet, Marc. Viege, Saint-Nicolas, et Saas, ou Recherches sur la Geo- 
graphic, sur les Mceurs, et sur l'Histoire Civile, Ecclesiastique, Physique, 
et Naturelle des Vallees de Saas et de Saint Nicolas, en. Valais. Geneva, 

1835- 

Part i. only issued. 

WaHiser-Sagen. Gesammelt und herausgegeben von Sagenfreunden. 
Sion, 1872. 

Weilemnann, J. J. Aus der Firnenwelt. Leipzig, 1872-7. 3 vols. 
Vols, i. and iii. contain papers relating to the Western Alps. 

IVelde?i, Ludwig Freiherr von. Der Monte-Rosa: eine topographische und 
naturhistorische Skizze, nebst einem Anhange der von Herrn Zumstein 
gemachten Reisen zur Ersteigung seiner Gipfel. Vienna, 1824. 

White, Walter. To Mont Blanc and Back Again. London, 1854. 

Whymper, Edward. Scrambles amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-9. 
London, 1871. 

2nd edition, 1871 ; 3rd edition, abridged, 1880 ; 4th and definitive 
edition, 1893. A German translation appeared at Brunswick in 1872,- 
and a French one in 1873 m Paris. 
Wills, Sir Alfred. Wanderings among the High Alps. London, 1856. 
2nd edition, 1858. 

Wills, Sir Alfred. £ The Eagle's Nest ' in the Valley of Sixt : a Summer 
Home among the Alps ; together with some Excursions among the Great 
Glaciers. London, i860. 
Windham, W., and Martel, P. An Account of the Glacieres or Ice Alps in 
Savoy. In two letters — one from an English gentleman to his friend at 
Geneva ; the other from Peter Martel, Engineer, to the said English 
Gentleman. London, 1744. 
The original French text of both letters, written in 1 741 -2, was printed 
by T. Dufour in the 4 Echo des Alpes 5 for 1879. 
Wolf, F. 0. Chamonix et le Valais. 2 vols. Zurich, 1886-8. 

Issued in the series known as 6 Europaische Wanderbilder,' or i Illus- 
trated Europe,' in several languages. 



BOOKS RELATING TO THE WESTERN ALPS 



Wundt, Theodor. Das Matterhorn und seine Geschichte. Berlin, 1896. 

Beautifully illustrated. 
Yung, E. Zermatt et la Vallee de la Viege. Geneva, 1893. 
Zsigmondy, Emil. Im Hochgebirge. Leipzig, 1889. 

Zurcher, F. , et Margolle, E. Les Ascensions Celebres aux plus Hautes 
Montagnes du Globe. Paris, 1867. 
3rd edition, 1876. 



II. GUIDE-BOOKS RELATING TO THE WESTERN ALPS. 

In the following list the most important current Guide-books to 
different portions of the Western Alps are included, but pamphlets 
relating to the various Baths, such as Valdieri, Vinadio, Brides, &c. 

Amanda Francois. Barcelonnette et Ses Environs Gap, 1896. 

Arnaud, Francois. Guide des Alpinistes dans la Vallee de l'Ubaye. Pour 

le Congres de 1898 du C. A. F. a Barcelonnette. Paris, 1898. 
Arnollet, Francois, Nos Alpes — Isere et Dorons. Moutiers, 1895. 
Bddeker, Karl. Le Sud-Est de la France du Jura a la Mediterranee. 

Leipzig and Paris, 1897. 
Originally issued in 1885, under the title of < Le Midi de la France.' 
Badeker, Karl. Switzerland. 1897. 

Ball, John. Guida delle Alpi Cozie, con Note ed Aggiunti del Cav. V. Buffa 
e Dott. E. Rostan. Pinerolo, 1879. 
Annotated translation of the Viso and Waldensian Valleys Sections of 
Mr. Ball's < Alpine Guide.' 
Bazetta, G. G., et Brusoni, E. Guide de 1'Ossola. 2nd edition. Dorno- 
dossola, 1889. 

Bovet, E. Le Lac Champex et ses Environs. Neuchatel, no date, but issued 
in 1896. 

Brockerel, Giulio. Guida Illustrata di Courmayeur e Dintorni. Courmayeur, 
1895. 

Brusoni, Edmondo, Guida alle Alpi Centrali Italiane. Vol. i. Domo- 
dossola, 1892. 

This volume describes the Val Sesia, the Lago d'Orta, and the Val 
d'Ossola. Vol. iii. will deal with the mountains included within 
those limits. 

Carrel, G. Les Alpes Pennines dans un Jour. Aosta. 

The N. bit of the panorama appeared in 1855, but the S. bit in i860 only. 
Carrel, J. P. , Chamonin, P. B. , and Vescoz, P. L. Geographie du JPays 
d'Aoste. Aosta, 1870. 
This booklet is nominally by the ' Petite Societe Alpine de Cogne,' but 
the authors' names are given in the Preface. 



xxx PRELIMINARY NOTES TO THE WESTERN ALPS 



Chartreux, Un. Guide a la Grande Chartreuse. 6th edition. Grenoble, 
1896. 

Claparede, Arthur de. Champery et le Val dTlliez. 3rd edition. Geneva, 
1893. 

Clavarino, Luigi. Le Valli di Lanzo. Turin, 1874. 

Climbers' Guides Series. London. Edited by Sir Martin Conway and W. 
A. B. Coolidge. 

The following volumes of this series deal with the Western Alps : — 

1. Conway, Sir Martin. The Central Pennine Alps. 1890. 

2. Conway, Sir Martin* The Eastern Pennine Alps. 1891. 

3. Coolidge, W. A. B., Duhamel^ H., and Perrin, F. The Central 

Alps of the Dauphiny. 1892. 

4. KiiJ-z, Louis. The Chain of Mont Blanc. 1892. 

5. Veld, G., and Coolidge, W. A. B. The Mountains of Cogne. 

1893. 

Conway, Sir Martin. The Zermatt Pocket-Book. London, 1 88 1. 
Coolidge, W. A. B., Duhamel, H., and Perrin, F. Guide du Haut 

Dauphine. Grenoble, 1887, 
Supplement issued in 1890. 
Covino, A. Da Turin a Chambery. 3rd edition. Turin, 1 87 1. 
Covino, A. II Panorama delle Alpi e i Contorni di Torino. Turin, 1874. 
Dellepiane, G. Guida per Excursioni negli Appennini e nelle Alpi Liguri. 

2nd edition. Genoa, 1896. 
Duhamel, H. Grenoble considere comme Centre d'Excursions. Grenoble, 

■ 1893. 

See also under £ Climbers' Guides. ' 
Ferrand H. Itineraire Descriptif, Historique, et Archeologique de la 

Maurienne, et de la Tarentaise. 2nd edition. Grenoble, 1879. 
Ferrand, H. Guide a la Grande Chartreuse. 2nd edition. Grenoble, 

1889. 

Gorret, A., and Bich, Claude. Guide de la Vallee d'Aoste. Turin, 1876. 

Illustrated Europe (in English, French, and German). See Wolf'm the pre- 
ceding section. 
Joamie. Jura et Alpes Francaises. Paris, 1877. 
Joanne. Provence. Paris, 1896. 

Joanne. Alpes Dauphinoises. Vol. i. only published. Paris, 1890. 

Joanne. Dauphine. Paris, 1898. 

Joanne. Savoie. Paris, 1895. 

Joanne. Suisse. Two parts. Paris, 1895. 

All these are the large editions. 
Juge, Stephane. Guide Bleu Illustre des Alpes Francaises. Dauphine- 

Savoie. Paris, 1894. 
Kurz, Louis. Guide de la Chaine du Mont-Blanc. Neuchatel, 1892. 
Laissus, C. En Savoie. La Tarentaise. Guide du Baigneur, du Touriste, et 
Naturaliste. Moutiers, no date. 



GUIDE-BOOKS RELATING TO THE WESTERN ALPS xxxi 



LinariX) Ch. Guide Pratique de la Savoie et de la Haute -Savoie Medicale 
et Pittoresque. Paris, 1895. 

Martelli, A. E., Bobba, G., and Vaccarone, L. Guida delle Alpi Occi- 
dentals 2 vols, in 3 parts. Turin, 1889- 1896. 

Miriam, Guides. Guide du Touriste dans le Brianconnais. Paris, 1898. 

Mortillet, G. de. Guide en Savoie. 3rd edition. Chambery, 1874. 
First issued in 1856. 

Murray. Handbook for Travellers in Switzerland, Savoy, Piedmont, the 
Italian Lakes, and part of the Dauphine. 2 parts. 1 8th edition. London, 
1892. 

Murray. Handbook for Travellers in France. Part ii. (includes the French 

Alps.) 1 8th edition, London, 1892. 
Perrin, F. See under ' Climbers' Guides ' and 4 Coolidge. ' 
Pertusi, L. , and Ratti, C. Guida pel villeggiante nel Biellese. 2nd edition. 

Turin, 1887. 

Ratti, C. Da Torino a Lanzo e per le tre Valli della Stura. 2nd edition. 
Turin, 1893. 

Ratti, C. , and Casanova, F. Guida Illustrata della Valle d' Aosta. Turin, 
I ^93- 3 f d edition. 

A new edition is in preparation, the 4 Gressoney 5 section of which was 
issued as a separate book in 1897. 
Schaub, C, and Briquet, M. Guide Pratique de l'Ascensionniste sur les 

Montagnes qui entourent le Lac de Geneve. 3rd edition. Geneva, 1893. 
Tivollier, J. Monographie de la Vallee du Queyras (Hautes Alpes). Gap, 

1897. 

Tonetti, F. Guida Illustrata della Valsesia e del Monte Rosa. Varallo, 1891. 
Tschudi, I. von. Der Turist in der Schweiz und den Grenzrayons. 33rd 

edition. Zurich, 1895. 
Uberti, Giansevero. Guida Generale ai Grandi Laghi Subalpini. Milan, 

1890. 

Vaccaro?ie, L. II Gruppo del Gran Paradiso. Turin, 1894. 

Vaccarone, Z., and Nigra, L. Guida- Itinerario per le Valli dell' Oreo, di 

Soana, e di Chiusella. Turin, 1878. 
Vaccarone, L. , and Bobba and Martelli. See under Martelli. 
Wagnon, Auguste. Autour de Sal van et de Fins-Hauts. 2nd edition. 

Lausanne, 1895. 

Whymper, Edward. A Guide to Chamonix and the Range of Mont Blanc. 
London, 1896. 

Whymper, Edward. A Guide to Zermatt and the Matterhorn. London, 

1897- 

Yeld, G. See under ' Climbers' Guides.' 



xxxii PRELIMINARY NOTES TO THE WESTERN ALPS 



III. ALPINE PERIODICALS. 

At the present time the number of periodicals devoted to Alpine 
matters is so considerable, and the amount of valuable information they 
contain is so enormous, that the would-be Alpine bibliographer finds 
his task a very heavy one. Yet when the first edition of the present 
volume was issued in July, 1863, modern Alpine periodicals were 
represented only by two numbers of the ' Alpine Journal 5 (March and 
June, 1863), and by a single volume of the ' Mittheilungen ' of the 
original Austrian Alpine Club, for the Swiss Club (the only other 
founded at that time) did not put forth its first ' Jahrbuch' till 1864. 
In order, therefore, to help those who wish to consult these numerous 
periodicals the following list has been compiled. It practically in- 
cludes all the important Alpine periodicals, for all contain (from time 
to time only it may be) articles and notes relating to the Western 
Alps. A nearly complete list of all Alpine periodicals is given at the 
opening of Herr Waber-Lindt's great bibliography of works relating 
to Swiss travel. 

1. The Principal Alpine Clubs. 

a. Austrian Alpine Club (Oe. A.C. ), founded December 5, 1878, as the 

' Alpenclub Oesterreich ; ' name altered in 1884. 

Oesterreichische Alpen-Zeitung. Vienna. Appears fortnightly since 
1879. 

Three Indices published, each for 6 vols. , down to end of 1896; also 
volume indices. 

b. English Alpine Chtb (A.C.), founded December 22, 1857. 

The Alpine Journal. London. Appears quarterly since March, 1863. 
An Index to vols, i.-xv. inclusive, 1863- 1 89 1, was issued in 1892 : 

also indices to each volume published. 
For the history of the Club see chap. iv. of Mr. W. Longman's 

£ Modern Mountaineering,' an appendix to vol. viii. of the * Alpine 

Journal.' 

c. French Alpine Club (CA.F.), founded April 2, 1874. 

Annuaire. Appears in Paris once a year since 1874. 

Index published in 1892 to vols, i.-xv. inclusive, 1874-1888 : no 
volume indices. 

Bulletin. From 1874. Now 7 9 numbers a year (not in summer months). 
Dates of issue have varied. No index of any kind, but tables of 
contents. 

Many of the Sections of the CA.F. publish 1 Bulletins,' where- 
in many useful articles are to be found. In particular we may 
mention — 



ALPINE PERIODICALS 



xxxiii 



a. The * Bulletin ' of the Lyons Section, 8 vols. 1878- 1 892 

(continued in the * Revue Alpine ; ' see under 2). 
No index. 

b. The 4 Bulletin ' of the Maritime Alps Section. Annual, Nice. 

From 1880 onwards. 
Index, issued in 1895, to vols, i.-xv. 1 880- 1 894. 

d. German and Austrian Alpine Club (D. u. Oe. A.V. ) 

This society was formed at the end of 1873 by the fusion of two older 
societies. 

a. The Austrian Alpine Club, founded at Vienna, November 19, 

1862. 

It published : 

Mittheilungen, 2 vols. 1863-4 ; Verhandlungen, I vol. 1864 ; 

Jahrbuch, 8 vols. 1865-73. 
In 1872 vol. viii. of the f Jahrbuch ' was at the same time 

vol. iii. of the ' Zeitschrift. 9 

b. The German Alpine Club, founded at Munich, May 9, 1869. 

It published : Zeitschrift, 4 vols. 1869-73. 
The new society issued a single annual 'Zeitschrift' from 1874 
onwards, and also from 1875 onwards fortnightly 4 Mittheilungen ' 
(various sizes). 

The ' Zeitschrift ' has no volume index, like the ' Mittheilungen. ' 
The places of publication vary with the shifting of the headquarters of 
the Club. 

Index issued in 1896 (superseding two earlier ones of 1877 an d 1887) to 
all periodicals published by either society from 1863 to the end of 
1894 (including vol. xxv. of the ( Zeitschrift '). 

For the history of the two societies see — 

(1) Zur Erinnerung an die vor 25 Jahren erfolgte Grundung des 

Oesterreichischen Alpenvereins. Vienna, 1887. 

(2) Emmer, J. Geschichte des Deutschen und Oesterreichischen 

Alpenvereins (an article in vol. xxv., 1894, of the * Zeitschrift,' 

and also issued separately). 
The Club also issues annually a convenient List of Club Huts in the 
whole chain of the Alps, and has put forth (1897) a Map showing the 
Club huts and mountain inns in the Eastern Alps. It has, too, pub- 
lished Hartinger^s beautifully executed pictures (500 in number, in 5 
vols.) of Alpine flowers — Atlas der Alpenflora (2nd edition completed 
in 1897), and also 5 parts in 2 vols. (1878- 1882) of an ' Anleitung zu 
wissenschaftlichen Beobachtungen auf Alpenreisen, ' including oro- 
graphy, hydrography, geology, meteorology, anthropology, zoology, 
and botany. 

e. Italian Alpine Club (C.A.L), founded October 23, 1863. 

Bollettino. From 1865. Turin. Now appears annually. 
Alpinista. 2 vols., 1874-5. Turin. 
I. b 



xxxiv PRELIMINARY NOTES TO THE WESTERN ALPS 



Rivista Mensile (originally R. Alpina). Turin. From 1882. Monthly. 
Indices (three in number) have been published (1885-94) to all these 

periodicals, complete for the e Alpinista,' down to 1893 f° r tne 

' Bollettino ' and to 1 891 for the ' Rivista.' 
Each volume of the ' Alpinista 5 and 8 Rivista ' has a separate Index ; 

the 8 Bollettino ' only a Table of Contents. 
For the history of the Club, see — 

Gainer, Sc. Cronaca del Club Alpino Italiano dal 1863 a * 1888. 
Turin, 1888. 

/ Swiss Alpine Club (S.A.C.), founded April 19, 1863. 

Jahrbuch. Bern. From 1S64 annually, in German. (Vols, iv.-v. , 
1S68-9, also in French.) 
Index (1886) to vols, i.-xx. (1864-85), and volume indices from 
vol. xvi. onwards. 

The 8 Jahrbuch ' is the principal publication of the S. A. C. 
(*' Alpina ' added in i893),,but each of the three nationalities 
have or have had a separate organ. 

(1) French- speaking Sections. Echo des Alpes. Geneva. 
From 1865. Now monthly. 

Index (1892) to vols, i.-xxv. (1865-89), but no volume 
Indices. 

( 2 ) German-speaking Sections. 

For long these made use of the unofficial publication, first 
entitled 8 Alpenpost ' (6 vols. , at Glarus, save vol. viL at 
Zurich, 1871-4), and then ( Neue Alpenpost' (16 vols., 
Zurich, 1875-82 ; neither has any Index, but only Tables 
of Contents). 

The first official organ was the fortnightly 8 Schweizer 
Alpen-Zeitung ' (11 vols. 1883-93, Zurich; only Tables 
of Contents for vols, i.-vi. ; then Indices for each 
volume). 

From July, 1893, this was replaced by the 'Alpina' 
(Zurich ; volume Indices only), which is now the 
official monthly organ of the whole Club. 

( 3) Italian -speaking Sections. 

Annuario del Club Alpino Ticinese (C.A. T. ), 5 vols. 
(1886-94.) Bellinzona. This society is now a Section of 
the S.A.C. 
For the history of the S.A.C. see — 

Buss, E. Die ersten 25 Jahre des Schweizer Alpenclub. Glarus, 1889 
(also a French version, Geneva, dated 1889, but really published late 
in 1890). 

2. The French Alps. 

There are such a number of periodicals (apart from those issued by the 
C.A.F. ) in which information as to the French Alps may be found that it 



ALPINE PERIODICALS 



XXXV 



seems most convenient to group them together under a separate heading. 
The two principal are — 

a. Touristes du Dauphine (S.T.D. ), Annuaire de la Societe des. Appears 

annually at Grenoble since 1875. 

Index (issued 1896) to vols, i.-xx. 1875-94. 

b. Revue Alpine. Appears monthly at Lyons since the end of 1894. 

Volume indices only. 

As noted above, this is issued by the Lyons Section of the C.A.F. 
It deals with the whole of the French Alps, the S.T.D. con- 
fining its attention to the Dauphine Alps. 
Several other French periodicals may be mentioned, though of less im- 
portance to mountaineers than the two noted above. 

c. Alpes Francaises. Grenoble. From 1884. Weekly. 

d. Alpinistes Dauphinois (originally Grenoblois), Annuaire de la Societe 

des. Appears annually since 1892 at Grenoble. 

e. Dauphine, Le. Grenoble. Weekly. From 1863. 

f. Durance, La. Embrun. Weekly. From 1872. 

g. Grenoble Revue. Grenoble. Monthly. 1890-2. 

h. Hautes Alpes, Societe" d'Etudes des. 

Bulletin. Gap. Quarterly. From 1882. 



IV. MAPS RELATING TO THE WESTERN ALPS. 

When this work was first published in 1863 the great Government 
Surveys of France, Italy, and Switzerland were only in progress, if 
even begun, so that recourse was necessary to many isolated maps 
made by various savants, &c. Nowadays all these great surveys have 
not merely been completed (so far as regards the Western Alps), but 
also issued to the public. Doubtless as time goes on they will be 
more and more perfected, but it may fairly be said that now we have 
a good, in part excellent, set of large-scale maps for the Western 
Alps. In a few cases they still need, however, to be supplemented 
by special maps. 

It seems best to describe the Maps relating to the Western Alps 
under three headings, according to whether they are of more or less 
purely historical interest, or are now indispensable to the traveller. 

i. Maps of Historical Interest. 

It may be stated generally that the historical geography of the higher por- 
tions of the Western Alps takes its start (with a few isolated exceptions in the 
case of some special districts) with the two great maps issued in 1827 (scale, 
506000 > man y smaller maps on a scale of 10 q 000 in the text) with the 

b 2 



xxx vi PRELIMINARY NOTES TO THE WESTERN ALPS 



Operations Geodesiques, and in 1845 (scale eoofeo) w ^ Le Alpi chc 
cingono V Italia. But part of the S. W. Alps was mapped, and very well too for 
.the time, a good deal earlier, as M. de Bourcet's Carte Geometrique du Hant 
Dauphine et de la Frontiere Ulterieure (scale 86 ^ 00 ) appeared in nine 
sheets as far back as 1763, and as regards parts of the ranges S. of the Val- 
gaudemar is still the best in existence. Of course there were earlier maps, 
which, however, paid little attention to the regions above the snow line ; 
among these may be mentioned BorgonzVs map (twenty-five sheets, scale 
1I4000) °f tne dominions of the duke of Savoy (1680), and the numerous 
early maps of parts of Switzerland, which are carefully catalogued in 
the splendid list published by the Swiss Government as vol. ii. (1896, by 
Professor Graf, of Bern) of the great ' Bibliographie der Schweizerischen 
Landeskunde, ' and such general works as Weiss' ' Atlas Suisse ' (1786- 1802) 
and Worl's ' Karte der Schweiz ' and neighbouring regions (1834-5). 

To these may be added the later Sardinian Map (ninety sheets, scale 
185 1-7 i ), and the Dufour Map of Switzerland (twenty-five sheets, 
scale yo^ooo' 1 845- 64)- Of the latter a most interesting history was pub- 
lished at Bern in 1896 under the title of ' Die Schweizerische Landesvermess- 
ung, 1832-64 (Geschichte der Dufourkarte).' 

Besides these general maps a few special ones may be named, which are 
most valuable and interesting from an historical point of view. 
Dauphine. (1) Mr. Tuckett's map of 'The Pelvoux and its Environs,' 1862 

(photograph ; scale 97J00), which is reproduced (scale gooW) m bis 

' Hochalpenstudien,' 1873. 

(2) The Carte Topographique du Massif du Mont- Pelvoux, by Prudent 
(1874; scale 40M00)' issued with vol. i. of the £ Annuaire ' of the 
French Alpine Club. 
Graians. (3) Mr. Nichols' three maps (scale xqoVoo m case °f tne chief) in 

vols. ii. and hi. (1865-7) of the 'Alpine Journal,' with the N. portion of 

that chain, due to the same explorer, on the S.W. sheet (1874-5 ? scale 

Wooo) °f tne ' Alpine Club Map. ' 
Mont Blanc Cham. (4) The maps by Adams-Reilly (1865 ; scale 8oo~oo)> by 

Mieulet (1865 ; scale 40^00)5 an( * by Viollet-le-Duc (1876 ; scale ^oJoo)- 
Central and Eastern Peii7iines. (5) The three maps issued in connection with 

Engelhardfs books, in 1840, 1850, and 1856 — a most precious source 

for the early topographical history of the Monte Rosa group. 

(6) The two editions (1849 an d 1853) of Gottlieb Studers f Karte der 
siidlichen Wallisthaler ' (scale 100 1 000 )» 

(7) Mr. Adams- Reiltys map of ' The Valpelline, the Valtournanche, and 
the Southern Valleys of the Chain of Monte Rosa, from an actual survey 
made in 1865-6' (scale T ^^\ 

(8) The eight sheets published by the Swiss Alpine Club, under the 
name of ' Excursionskarte fiir das Sudwallis,' from 1867 to 1869 ; these 
are based on the then unpublished original surveys for the Dufour Map 
(later issued as the * Siegfried Map), and are on a scale of jq^oo« 



MAPS RELATING TO THE WESTERN ALPS xxxvii 



ii. Current Maps. 
I. Government Surveys. 

A. France. Carte de l'Etat Major. 258 sheets (1833-76). Scale goJoo- (The 

best edition is that lithographed, and kept up to date, which is known 
as the 'Type 1889.') 

Carte de la Frontiere des Alpes (in three colours). 72 sheets. Scald 

■qo^qq. c. 1875. A ver y pretty and legible map, limited to the 

frontier districts. 

Carte du Service Vicinal, c. 600 sheets. Scale i^oo* Very legible 
and handy, but extremely untrustworthy as to names and heights. 
All the Alpine sheets were issued by 1889. 

B. Italy. Carta Topografica del Regno d' Italia. 277 sheets. Scale tWooo-' 

Too small for practical use. 

Surveyed from 1879 to 3[ 89i, an d published from 1884 to 1897, so 
far as regards the Alpine regions. 
Tavolette rilevate per la construzione deila Carta del Regno d' Italia 

(surveyed 1880- 1884, published from 1882 to 1892). 174 sheets. 

Scale 5oJoo* Accurate, but very illegible. 

The 25M0 edition (surveyed 1884-92) is much clearer. 

C. Switzerland. Topographischer Atlas der Schweiz (commonly known as 

the Siegfried Map, or Atlas. From 1870 onwards (the mountain sheets 
relating to the Western Alps are now — 1898 — all published). 589 sheets. 
Scale 50J00 f° r t ^ ie moun tain districts, 25^0 ^ or ^ e P^ ams - 

This is the publication, after careful revision, of the original large-scale 
surveys for the Dufour Map. It is undoubtedly the most splendid 
and accurate representation of a mountain land ever yet published, 
its clearness being only surpassed by its excellence. 

2. Special Maps. 

In a few cases the Government Surveys must still be supplemented 
by certain special maps, which deal with very unknown or strangely 
neglected districts, and are meant specially for the use of moun- 
taineers. 

Cottian Alps. 

(1) Rochas tfAigluny A. de. Carte Historique des Vallees Vaudoises 

(scale 10 o 000 ), in 5 colours, issued with the author's book on the 
4 Vallees Vaudoises ' in 1881. 

(2) Coolidge, W. A. B. Sketch Maps of the Ambin and Scolette groups 

(i.e. the region between the Tunnel and the Mont Cenis), both on a 
scale of 80 q 00 , and given with the author's articles on these two groups 
in vols. iii. and iv. (1897-8) of the 4 Revue Alpine ' of Lyons. 

(3) Duhamel, H. Maps of the Pelvoux Group (4 sheets ; scale ioo 1 00 j). 

Originally issued in 1889 in connection with the ' Guide du Haut 



xxxviii PRELIMINARY NOTES TO THE WESTERN ALPS 



Dauphine,' and reissued (after careful revision) in 1892 with the new 
edition of that work in the ' Climbers' Guides ' series. 
Wonderfully clear and accurate. 

(4) Pilkington, C. Mountains at the Head of the Valgaudemar. Issued in 

1 880, with an article by the author, in vol. x. of the ' Alpine Journal. 5 
The only accurate representation of a very little known group. 

(5) Alois son, P. Sketch Map of the Chaillol Group (scale 40J00), issued with 

an article by the author in vol. xiii. (1887) of the 6 Annuaire de la 
Societe des Touristes du Dauphine. ' Grenoble. 

(6) Coolidge, W. A. B., and Boiton, J. Sketch Map of the Cerces Group 

between the Cols du Galibier and des Rochilles, issued with an article 
by Mr. Coolidge in vol. xvii. (1891) of the last-named periodical. 

(7) Fiorio, C, Ratti, C, and Rey, G. Sketch Map of the Aiguilles d'Arves 

Group (scale ^ 0 ^ 00 ), issued with an article by the authors in the 
' Bollettino ' of the Italian Alpine Club for 1889. 



Western Graians. 

(8) Paillon, Maurice. Massif du Mont Pourri (scale 50J00), issued with the 

author's article on the Mont Pourri in vol. i. (1895) of tne * Revue 
Alpine ' of Lyons. 

Eastern Graians (Cogne District). 

(9) Paganini, Pio. Gruppo del Gran Paradiso (scale 50 ^ 00 ), issued with the 

author's work ' La Fototopografia in Italia,' Rome, 1889. 
Few names and many heights, but very illegible. 

(10) Yeld, G. Sketch Map of the Eastern Graians (scale 97^0)- Originally 

issued in 1886, with an article by the author in vol. xii. of the * Alpine 
journal,' and reissued (after careful revision) in 1893 w i tn another article 
by the author in vol. xvi. of the same periodical, as well as with the 
author's Guide to the ' Mountains of Cogne,' published in 1893 in the 
* Climbers' Guides ' series. 

It has no heights, but gives the names now commonly recognised, 
and has some topographical corrections, while it is extremely legible. 



Chain of Mont Blanc. 

(11) MM. Imfeld and Kurds * La Chaine du Mont-Blanc 5 (scale 

published in 1 896. This is one of the finest specimens of modern carto - 
graphy, while the names and topography are based on the latest 
information. It is also remarkable as being the only map, on a fairly 
large scale, which represents the whole chain of Mont Blanc, which 
politically belongs to three countries. 

(12) The MM. Vallot propose to issue some day a map of the chain of Mont 

Blanc in 12 sheets, and on a scale of 20 q 00 . At present the firstfruits 
of this great undertaking that have been given to the world consist in 



MAPS RELATING TO THE WESTERN ALPS xxxix 



Sketch Maps (scale 40J00) °f tne Aiguilles Rouges range, published in 
vol. xix. — 1892 — of the 'Annuaire'of the French Alpine Club, and 
of the Great Chamonix Aiguilles, in vol. xxi. — 1894 — of the same 
periodical. 

Central and Eastern Pennines* 

{13) The Federal Topographical Bureau issues combined maps, formed by 
lithographing together certain mountain sheets of its maps, so as to 
form a special map for a particular district. The Swiss portion 
of the Western Alps described in this volume is included in three of 
these combination maps — 

sl St Maurice ( T ocfeoo? Dufour Map), taking in the Champery, 
Salvan, and Finhaut districts, together with that of the 
Dent de Moreles, beyond the Rh6ne. 

b. Martigny — Grand St. Bernard — Combin ( 50 q 00 , Siegfried map), 

extending from the Col de Balme to Arolla. 

c. Evolena — Zermatt — -Monte Rvsa ^mno > Siegfried map), in- 

cluding the country between Arolla and the Saas valley. 
The first and third each cost 2 fr. unmounted (3 fr. 30 c. 
mounted to fold), and the other 2 fr. unmounted (5 fr. 
mounted to fold). 

(14) The combined map numbered c above was also issued with vol. xxvL 

( 1891) of its 1 Jahrbuch ' by the Swiss Alpine Club, which in the follow- 
ing year put forth a further very useful combination, showing the 
whole of the upper end of the Saas valley. 

(15) Martelli, A. E. Map of the southern slope of the chain between the 

St. Theodule Pass and the Lyskamm {scale 50 ^ 00 ), issued with an 
article by the author in the * Bollettino 3 of the Italian Alpine Club 
for 1 886. 

ili. General Maps. 

It is a singular fact, the reasons for which are not altogether 
evident, that there exists at present no one map, on a fairly large 
scale, of the whole chain of the Alps. That (sheet 52) in the second 
edition of Andree's 4 Allgemeiner Handatlas ' (Bielefeld and 
Leipzig) is on a scale of ^o^Wr? but is extremely good so far as it 
goes. The ' Alpine Club Map' extends in its first edition (1874-5, 
srAnrff) 4 sheets) only from the head of the I sere valley to the 
Ortler group, while in its second edition (1881, t^j^ 8 sheets) it 
is cut short at the Little St. Bernard. The six new district maps in 
the present volume do indeed extend its scope as far as the Col de 
Tenda, but the style of execution is different. Herr Ravenstein, 
of Frankfurt a/Main, has issued eleven very clear and beautiful sheets 
(scale srggWo)? which extend from the Little St. Bernard to Marburg, 
and it is to be hoped that some day he will add two more, so as to 
carry on his most useful and handy map to the Col de Tenda. 



xl PRELIMINARY NOTES TO THE WESTERN ALPS 



At present the first six District maps in the present volume are the 
best existing handy map of the Alps south of the Little St. Bernard, 
and for the Pennines either the Alpine Club map or the western sheet 
of Herr Ravenstein's ' Karte der Schweizer Alpen J (1897). The large 
map of the Western Alps in the present volume gives only a general 
view of the W estern Alps, while each of the Guide-books mentioned in 
one of the preceding Sections has maps which vary much in point 
of scale and usefulness. 



V. CLUB HUTS IN THE WESTERN ALPS. 

The following list contains, it is believed, all the Club huts proper 
in the Western Alps which are now actually in use, thus excluding 
abandoned and ruined huts, like those of Alpetto, Bonnepierre, La 
Lavey, Puiseux, &c. But though very great pains have been taken 
to procure the latest information regarding each hut it is possible 
that there may be errors. It would be very convenient for travellers 
if each Club (like the Swiss Club) were to issue annually a statement 
as to the precise condition at that moment of each of its Club huts. 
In this list each hut is followed by the number of the page of the 
text whereon its surroundings are more or less minutely described, 
and in some cases by the name of the principal peak accessible 
from it, or that of the person in whose honour it was built. Many 
huts, especially on the Italian slope, are locked, so that a party should 
procure the key at the nearest village on the way up. The huts 
marked * are only shelter huts, and not strictly speaking Club huts. 



Maritime Alps. 

Barma cave (Mont Clapier), pp. 8, 

13- 

Genova (Argentera), p. 11. 

(For the 4 maisons forestieres 1 
round Alios see p. 24. ) 
Cottian Alps. 

Quintino Sella (Viso), pp. 6 1 -2. 

Rochebrune, p. 85. 
Dauphine Alps. 

Belledonne, p. 136. 

Carrelet (Ecrins), p. 153. 

Cezanne, p. 152. 

Chatelleret (Meije), p. 148. 



Dauphine Alps (continued) — 

Fare (Grandes Rousses), p. 127. 

Lac Noir, p. 147. 

Lyon Republicain (Aiguilles 

d'Arves), p. 121. 
Provence or A. Lemercier (Pel- 

voux), p. 163. 
Selle, p. 147. 
Tuckett, p. 152. 
Graian Alps. 

Budden (Becca di Nona), p. 302. , 
Crot del Ciaussine (Gastaldi), p. 

260. 

Defey (on Rutor), p. 288. 



CLUB HUTS IN THE WESTERN ALPS 



xli 



Graian Alps (continued) — 
Gura, p. 267. 
Levanna, pp. 318-9. 
Nants (Dome de Chasseforet), p. 
242. 

Pera Ciaval, p. 257. 
Piantonetto, p. 313. 
Prarion, p. 276. 
Rutor (near lake), p. 289. 
Sausse, p. 235. 

Vanoise (Grande Casse),pp. 242-3. 
Vittorio Emmanuele II. (Grand 
Paradis), p. 320. 
Chain of Mont Blanc. 

Barberine, pp. 409, 418. 
*Beranger (Pierre a), p. 344, 
Blanc (Mont) : 

Bosses (Vallot), p. 355. 
Dome, p. 358. 

Gouter (Aiguille du), p. 356. 

Midi, p. 357. 

Quintino Sella, p. 358. 
♦Buet (Pictet), p. 406. 
Crammont (Saussure), pp. 375. 
Geant, Col du, p. 365. 
Grandes Jorasses, p. 376. 
Orny, p. 392. 
Saleinaz, pp. 388, 393. 
Triolet, p. 366. 



Central Pennines. 

Bertol, Col de, pp. 463-4. 
Chanrion, p. 448. 
Fallere, Mont (Regina Mar- 
gherita), p. 434. 
*Grande Penna (Grand Combin),. 
pp. 444-5. 
Matterhorn : 

*Cravate, p. 508. 
Lower Swiss hut, pp. 501, 508. 
Luigi di Savoia (or Grande 
Tour), p. 508. 
Mountet (Constantia), p. 481. 
Panossiere (Grand Combin), p. 
445- 

Eastern Pennines. 
Bo, Monte, p. 537. 
Castor (Quintino Sella), p. 517. 
Dom (Festi), p. 509. 
Rosa, Monte : 

Betemps, p. 504. 

Gnifetti, pp. 504, 517. 

Marinelli, p. 505. 

Regina Margherita, pp. 504, 
506. 

Tournalin, Grand (Carrel), p. 513. 
Weissthor, New (Eugenio Sella), 
p. 524. 



j 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

Preface v 

Authorities Quoted • x 

Abbreviations and Explanations xi 

Preliminary Notes to the Western Alps : — 

I. Books relating to the Western Alps xii 

II. Guide-Books relating to the Western Alps . . . . . xxix 

III. Alpine Periodicals xxxii 

IV. Maps relating to the Western Alps xxxv 

V. Club Huts in the Western Alps xl 

List of Maps li 



CHAPTER I. 

MARITIME ALPS. 

SECTION i. 
ARGENTERA DISTRICT. 



Rte. A. Turin and Cuneo to Nice or Ventimiglia by the Col de Tenda. 

Pesio Glen . 5 

,, B. Cuneo to the Baths of Valdieri. Excursions and Ascents from 

the Baths . 9 

, , C. Valdieri to St. Martin Vesubie and Nice by the Col delle Finestre. 

Excursions and Ascents from the Madonna delle Finestre and 

St. Martin V^subie .12 

,, D. Baths of Valdieri to St. Martin V^subie by the Col de la Ciriegia . 15 
, , E. Baths of Valdieri to the Tin£e Valley by the Bassa di Druos . . 16 
F. Valdieri, or the Baths of Valdieri, to the Stura Valley ... 17 



SECTION 2. 

THE SEAWARD VALLEYS. 

Rte. A. Nice to Barcelonnette by the Valley of the Tin£e . . . .18 
,, B. Nice to Barcelonnette by the Valley of the Var .... 21 
C. Nice to Barcelonnette by the Valley of the Verdon . . . .24 



xliv 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER II. 
COTTIAN ALPS. L 
SECTION 3. 



CHAMBEYRON DISTRICT. 

PAGE 

Rte. A. Cuneo to Barcelonnette and Embrun by the Col de l'Argentiere . 31 
„ B. Barcelonnette to Guillestre by the Valley of the Ubaye. Ascents 

from Maljasset . . 35 

„ C. Barcelonnette to Casteldelfino by the Valley of the Ubaye . . 43 

„ D. Cuneo to Barcelonnette by the Val Maira 44 

, , E. Cuneo to the Stura or Maira Valleys by the Val Grana . . .47 

SECTION 4. 

VISO DISTRICT. 

Rte. A. Saluzzo to Guillestre by the Val Varaita 49 

„ B. Turin or Saluzzo to Guillestre by the Valley of the Po . . 53 

, , C. Ascent of Monte Viso 61 

D. Crissolo to the Val Varaita and the Val Pellice .... 64 

SECTION 5. 

WALDENSIAN VALLEYS. 

Rte. A. Pinerolo to Abries by the Val Pellice 68 

M B. Pinerolo to C^sanne by the Col de Sestrieres 71 

f 1 C. Torre Pellice or Bobbio to Perosa 74 

, , D. Perosa to Abries by the Germanasca Valley 75 

, , E. Perosa to C^sanne by the Rodoretto Valley 76 

, , F. Perosa to Pragelas or F6nestrelles by the Massello V alley . . 77 

SECTION 6. 

GENEVRE DISTRICT. 

Rte. A. Oulx to Briancon by the Mont Genevre 80 

B. Abries to C^sanne 82 

, , C. Abries or Chateau Queyras to Briancon 83 

D. Briancon to St. Michel by the Clair£e Valley ... * 85 

E. Briancon to Bardonneche by the Col des Echelles. Ascent of the 

MontThabor .......... 87 

SECTION 7. 

AMBIN DISTRICT. 

Rte. A. ChambeYy to Turin by the Fr£jus Tunnel 90 

B. Modane to Turin by the Mont Cenis 94 

C. Modane to Bardonneche. Ascent of the Aiguille de Scolette . 97 

D. Bramans to Bardonneche, Exilles, or Susa by the Ambin Group . 101 
„ E. Bramans or the Mont Cenis to Susa by the Col de Clapier. 

Ascents of the Roche and the Dents d' Ambin . . . . 104 



CONTENTS 



xlv 



CHAPTER III. 

DAUPHINE ALPS. 
(COTTIAN ALPS. II.) 
SECTION 8. 



AIGUILLES D'ARVES DISTRICT. 

PAGE 

Rte. A. Grenoble to Briancon by the Col du Lautaret . . . .112 
„ B. St. Michel de Maurienne to La Grave. Ascent of the Aiguilles 

d'Arves , 118 

C. La Grave to St. Jean de Maurienne 122 

D. Bourg d'Oisans to St. Jean de Maurienne 123 

,, E. Bourg d'Oisans to La Chambre. Ascent of the Grandes Rousses . 124 

F. Grenoble or Chamb£ry to Allevard. Excursions and Passes from 

Allevard , ... 128 

G. Allevard to Bourg d'Oisans. The Sept Laux .... 130 

H. Allevard to La Chambre 132 

, , I. Grenoble to Uriage. Ascent of Belledonne 134 



SECTION 9. 

PELVOUX DISTRICT. 

Rte. A. Bourg d'Oisans to La B£rarde. Valley of the \ T 6n6on 

B. Excursions and Ascents from La BeYarde 

C. V£n6on Valley to La Grave and the Lautaret Road 

D. La B^rarde to Vallouise 

E. V£n£on Valley to the Valgaudemar 

F. V£n£on Valley to the Valjouffrey .... 

G. Briancon to Vallouise. Ascent of the Mont Pelvoux 

H. Vallouise to La Grave 

I. Vallouise to Monetier 

K. Vallouise to the Valgaudemar .... 

L. Vallouise to Gap or Embrun by Champol^on or Orcieres 

M. Valgaudemar to Champol^on .... 

N. Grenoble to Bourg d'Oisans by La Mure 

O. La Mure to the Valgaudemar by the Valjouffrey and Valsenestre 

P. Corps to Grenoble by the DeVoluy, the Vercors, and the Royannai: 

The French Dolomites 

Q. Briancon to Grenoble by Gap 



SECTION 10. 

GRANDE CHARTREUSE DISTRICT. 

Rte. A. Culoz to Chamb6ry by Aix les Bains. Lake of Bourget . . 184 

B. Grenoble to Chambery by the Left Bank of the Isere . . . 186 

„ C. Grenoble to ChambeYy by the Right Bank of the Isere . . . 187 

M D. Grenoble or Chamb^ry to the Grande Chartreuse. . . . 189 

,, E. ChambeYy to Lyons or Grenoble by Aiguebelette and Pont de 

Beauvoisin 195 



xlvi 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER IV. 
LOWER SAVOY. 
SECTION ii. 

ANNECY AND ALBERTVILLE DISTRICT. 

PAGE 

Rte. A. Aix les Bains to Le CMtelard. The Bauges 199 

, , B. Annecy to Le Chatelard 201 

C. Le Chatelard to ChambeYy 202 

D. Le Chatelard to Albertville 204 

, , E. Albertville to Annecy. Lake of Annecy . . . . . 205 

F. Annecy to Bonneville 208 

G. Annecy to Cluses or Sallanches 210 

H. Annecy or Albertville to Sallanches or St. Gervais. Mont Joly . 211 
I. Albertville to St. Gervais by the Valley of Beaufort . . . 213 

K. Albertville to Bourg St. Maurice or Contamines by Beaufort . 215 

,, L. Beaufort to Moutiers Tarentaise . 217 



CHAPTER V. 

GRAIAN ALPS. 
SECTION 12. 

GRANDE CASSE DISTRICT (WESTERN GRAIANS). 

Rte. A. St. Pierre d'Albigny to Bourg St. Maurice. The Tarentaise . . 223 

B. Bourg St. Maurice to Lanslebourg by the Col d'Iseran. History 

of the Mont Iseran 225 

C. La Chambre to Moutiers by the Col de la Madeleine . . . 232 
,, D. St. Jean de Maurienne to Moutiers by the Col de la Platiere . . 233 

E. St. Michel de Maurienne to Moutiers by the Col des Encombres . 234 
,, F. St. Michel or Modane to Moutiers or Pralognan by the P£clet 

Group ^ 235 

G. Modane to Pralognan by the Cols de Chaviere and d'Aussois . 237 

H. Moutiers Tarentaise to Pralognan. Excursions and Ascents from 

Pralognan. Ascent of the Grande Casse . . . . . 239 

;, I. Pralognan to Termignon by the Col de la Vanoise .... 243 

K. Entre Deux Eaux to Tignes, Val d'Isere, Bessans, or Bonne val . 245 
,, L. Tignes to Moutiers or Bourg St. Maurice by the Col du Palet. 

Ascent of the Mont Pourri 246 

. SECTION 13. 

LEV ANNA DISTRICT (CENTRAL GRAIANS. I.) 

Rte. A. Bessans to the Viu Valley or the Mont Cenis by the Ribon Glen. 

Ascent of the Rochemelon 251 

, , B. Bessans to Usseglio and Lanzo by the Col de 1' Autaret . . . 254 

,, C. Viu Valley to the Dora Riparia Valley 256 

D. Ala Valley to the Viu Valley and the Val Grande .... 257 

E. Bessans to Balme and Lanzo by the Cols d'Arnas and du Collerin 259 

F. Excursions and Ascents from Bessans and Bonneval . . . 263 



CONTENTS 



xlvii 



PAGE 

Rte. G. Bonneval to Forno-Alpi-Graie and Lanzo by the Cols de Sea and 

de Girard ........... 266 

„ H. Val Grande to the Oreo Valley 268 

I. Bonneval to Ceresole by the Col du Carro 269 

K. Bonneval to Val d'Isere by the Col du Bouquetin .... 276 



SECTION 14. 

SASSIERE DISTRICT (CENTRAL GRAIANS. II.) 

Rte. A. Excursions and Ascents from Val d'Isere 

B. Val d'Isere to Ceresole by the Col de la Galise 

C. Val d'Isere to Villeneuve by the Val de Rhemes 

D. Val de Rhemes to Val Grisanche . 

E. Isere Valley to Liverogne by the Val Grisanche 

F. Ste. Foy or Val Grisanche to La Thuille. Rutor Group 

G. Bourg St. Maurice to Aosta by the Little St. Bernard 



273 
276 
278 
282 
283 
286 
292 



SECTION 15. 

GRAND PARADIS DISTRICT (EASTERN GRAIANS). 



Rte. A. Turin to Aosta by Ivrea 

„ B. Aosta to Cogne 

C. Excursions and Ascents from Cogne. Ascent of the Grivola 

, , D. Cogne to Bard by the Fenetre de Champorcher 

, , E. Cogne to Pont Canavese by the Val Soana . 

F. Cogne to Locana by the Val Piantonetto 

, , G. Cogne to Ceresole by the Col de Grandcroux . 

H. Cogne to the Val Savaranche ...... 

I. Aosta to Turin by the Col de Ni volet .... 

K. Ascents and Passes from the Victor Emmanuel Club hut. Ascent 

of the Grand Paradis 



297 
300 
304 
309 
310 

3ii 
314 

315 
316 

320 



CHAPTER VI. 



PENNINE ALPS. 



SECTION 16. 



MONT BLANC DISTRICT. 

Rte. A. Geneva to Chamonix. Excursions from Chamonix . . . 330 

B. The Ascent of Mont Blanc * . 348 

, i C. The Chamonix Aiguilles 359 

f 1 D. Chamonix to Courmayeur by the Col du G£ant and other Passes 

from the Montenvers 363 

, , E. Chamonix to Courmayeur by the Col du Bonhomme. Excursions 

from Courmayeur # ^67 

t , F. Contamines to Courmayeur by the Trelatete Glacier . . . 377 

G. Chamonix to Courmayeur by the Miage Glacier .... 378 

H. Chamonix to Martigny 380 

„ I. Chamonix or Martigny to Orsieres by Champex .... 384 

K. Orsieres to Courmayeur by the Col Ferret 385 

, , L. Chamonix to Orsieres by the Argentiere Glacier . . . 387 

M. Chamonix to Orsieres by the Tour Glacier . ... 391 



xlviii 



CONTENTS 



SECTION 17. 

SIXT AND CHAMP^RY DISTRICT. 

FAGK 

Rte. A. Geneva to Sixt by Taninges or Samoens ..... 395 

,, B. Cluses, Sallanches, or Servoz to Sixt 397 

C. Sixt and its Neighbourhood 400 

D. Sixt to Chamonix by the Col d'Anterne 403 

,, E. Sixt to Argentiere or Chamonix by the Buet and the Aiguilles 

Rouges 4 o 5 

• F. Sixt to Salvan and Martigny ........ 408 

G. Sixt or Samoens to Champ£ry 4U 

H. Monthey to ChampeYy. Ascent of the Dent du Midi . . .413 
I. Champery to Martigny or Chamonix ^5 

K. Geneva to St. Maurice by Thonon 418 

,, L. Thonon to Bonneville or Taninges 421 

,, M. Thonon to Taninges or Samoens . 423 

N. Thonon to Monthey by Morgins or Champ£ry .... 424 



SECTION 18. 

GRAND COMBIN DISTRICT. 

Rte. A. Martigny to Aosta by the Great St. Bernard 428 

, , B. Great St. Bernard Hospice to Courmayeur 433 

,, C. Bourg St. Pierre to Courmayeur 435 

D. Bourg St. Pierre to Aosta by the Col de Valsorey. Ascent of the 

Mont Velan 436 

, , E. Martigny to Aosta by the Val de Bagnes and the Col de Fenetre . 439 

F. Fionnay to Bourg St. Pierre by the Col des Maisons Blanches. 

Ascent of the Grand Combin . 443 

G. Bourg St. Pierre to Chanrion by the Col du Sonadon . . . 447 

H. Chanrion to the Valpelline. Ascents from Chanrion . . . 448 
I. Chanrion to Arolla by the Otemma or Breney Glaciers . . .451 

,, K. Mauvoisin or Chanrion to Arolla or Her£mence by the Cols du 

Mont Rouge and de Seilon 454 

L. Sion to the Val de Bagnes or Arolla by the Val d'H£remence . 455 



SECTION 19. 

EVOLENA, ZINAL, AND VALPELLINE DISTRICT. 



Rte. A. Sion to Evolena by the Val d'Herens. Excursions from Evolena , 459 

■ B. Evolena to Arolla. Excursions and Ascents from Arolla . . 459 

" C. Arolla to Zermatt 463 

\\ D. Arolla to the Valpelline by the Col de Collon 464 

\ ' E. Aosta to Zermatt by the Col de Valpelline. Ascent of the Dent 

d'Herens 465 

F. Praraye" to the Val Tournanche by the Col de Valcournera . . 470 
\\ G. Through the Val St. Barthelemy to the Valpelline or the Val 

Tournanche 473 

H. Evolena to Zermatt by the Col d'Herens. Ascent of the Dent 

Blanche 476 

I. Sierre to Zermatt by the Val d'Anniviers. Ascents from Zinal . 479 

K. Evolena to the Val d'Anniviers 485 

L. Val d'Annivers to Gruben . . , . . . . 487 

\ \ M. Gruben to St. Niklaus and Randa ....... 489 



CONTENTS 



SECTION 20. 



MONTE ROSA DISTRICT. 

Rte. A. Visp to Zermatt. Excursions and Ascents from Zermatt 

B. Zermatt to Chatillon by the St. Th£odule Pass. Ascents from 

Breuil 

, , C. Zermatt to Verres by the Schwarzthor and the Val d' Ayas 

,, D. Zermatt to Pont St. Martin by the Lysjoch and the Val de Lys 

E. Zermatt to Varallo by the Sesiajoch and the Val Sesia . 

, , F. Zermatt to Domodossola by the Weissthor and the Val Anzasca 

, , G. Tour of Monte Rosa by the High Glacier Passes . 

,, H. Val Tournanche to Macugnaga by the Middle Passes 

,, I. Aosta to the Val Anzasca by the Lower Passes 

, , K. Ivrea to Orta by Biella .... 

, , L. Orta to Ponte Grande by the Val Mastallone 

, , M. Orta to Ponte Grande by the Val Strona 

, , N. Visp to Macugnaga by the Monte Moro . 

O. Saas to Zermatt ..... 

P. Saas to St. Niklaus .... 




PA&E 

494 

514 
5i6 

Si9 
522 

527 
528 
53i 
535 
537 
539 
539 
542 
54^ 



SECTION 21. 

SIMPLON DISTRICT. 

Rte. A, Geneva to Milan by the Simplon Pass . 

B. Simplon to Saas by the Fletschhorn Group . 

,, C. Saas to Simplon or Domodossola by the Zwischbi 

D, Simplon to Domodossola by the Val Bognanco 

E. Saas to Domodossola by the Val Antrona 



gen Pass 



548 

563 

566 

567 
568 



Index . 



573 



I. 



c 



LIST OF MAPS. 

General Map of the Western Alps [to be placed at the beginning of the book] 

i. The Maritime Alps . To face p. i 

- 2. The Cottian Alps, (i. ) Monte Viso and its Neighbours 27 

, 3. The Cottian Alps, (ii.) The Waldensian Valleys and 

the Ambin Group . ,,67 

4. The Cottian Alps, (iii.) The Central Dauphine Alps . ,. 107 

5. The Graian Alps. (i. ) The Tarentaise Alps (Western 

Graians) . ,, 219 

v 6. The Graian Alps. (ii.) The Levanna and Grand 

Paradis Districts . , 273 

lJ 7. Mont Blanc and its Neighbours (W. Pen nines) . . ,., 325 

i 8. The Central Pennines M 427 

v 9. The Eastern Pennines ,,493; 



THE WESTERN ALPS. 



CHAPTER I. 



MARITIME ALPS. 



Section i. 



Argentera District. 



Route. 

A. Turin and Cuneo to Nice or Venti-* 

miglia by the Col de Tenda. 
Pesio Glen. 

B. Cuneo to the Baths of Valdieri. Ex- 

cursions and Ascents from the 
Baths. 

C. Valdieri to St. Martin Ve^subie, and 

Nice by the Col delle Finestre. 
Excursions and Ascents from the 
Madonna delle Finestre and St. 
Martin V£subie. 

D. Baths of Valdieri to St. Martin 

V£subie by the Col de la Ciriegia. 



Route. 

E, Baths of Valdieri to the Tinee Valley 

by the Bassa di Druos. 

F. Valdieri or the Baths of Valdieri, to 

the Stura, Valley. 



Section 2. 
The Seaward Valleys.. 

Route. 

A. Nice to Barcelonnette by the Valley 

of the Tin£e. 

B. Nice to Barcelonnette by the Valley 

of the Var. 

C. Nice to Barcelonnette by the Valley 

of the Verdon. 



If the reader will cast his eyes upon 
a detailed map of the region where 
the great chain of the Alps approaches 
the shores of the Mediterranean, he 
will observe that from a point about 
15 miles S. of Monte Viso a number 
of valleys diverge in many directions 
like the spokes of a wheel. These 
correspond to as many mountain 
ridges, v/hich all radiate from the 
Rocher des Trois Eveques (2,862 m., 
9,390 ft.), just S. of the Mont En- 
chastraye (2,955 m -> 9)^95 ft-)> tne 
latter being the first point of importance 
S. of the Col de 1'Argentiere, the N. 
limit of the Maritime Alps. On the W. 
and N.W. sides of the Trois Eveques 
there are merely short outlying ridges, 
between which several mountain tor- 
rents run down to the Ubaye, one of 
the chief affluents of the Durance. 
I. 



To the S.E. and S.W. much more 
considerable ridges extend towards 
the Mediterranean. 

Of these the more important is 
that running at first S.E., then 
nearly due E., and separating the 
Stura and Tinee valleys, for on or 
near it rise all the higher peaks of the 
Maritime Alps, their monarch itself, 
the Punta dell' Argentera (3,317 m., 
10,883 ft-)) crowning a N. spur. 
This great ridge is characterised by 
an axis of crystalline rocks, which 
are developed on a large scale. This 
circumstance, along with the height 
of the peaks rising on it, and the 
extent of perpetual snow, has obtained 
for it the distinction of being con- 
sidered the true prolongation of the 
main chain of the Alps. Extending 
in a direction nearly parallel to the 



2 



MARITIME ALPS 



shores of the Mediterranean, it is 
ultimately linked to the Appennines, 
which, under one or another de- 
nomination, reach to the furthest 
extremity of the Italian peninsula. 

The ridge extending S.W. from 
the Trois Eveques at first separates 
the head waters of some of the main 
affluents of the Ubaye and the Tinee 
rivers. But soon, at the Tete de 
Sdnguiniere (2,792 m., 9,160 ft.), 
a short distance N. of its culminating 
point, the Pointe Cote de PAne 
(2,931 m., 9,617 ft.), it is split into 
two important ranges. One runs S. E. , 
and divides the Tinee valley on theE. 
from the Var valley on the W. 5 but 
at the belvedere of the Mont Monnier 
(2,818 in., 9,246 ft.) breaks up into 
several minor ridges ; the other main 
ridge sinks to form the broad opening 
of the Col de la Cayolle, the main 
route from the V ar valley to that of the 
Ubaye, and then, after rising in the 
Mont Pelat (3,053 m., 10,017 ft-)> 
runs nearly due S. between the val- 
leys of the Var and of the Verdon. 
It will be observed that both these 
last-named streams are turned from 
their southward course by the low 
ranges of limestone hills which run from 
W. to E. across the French Depart- 
ment of the Var : the Verdon is 
diverted to the W. at Castellane, and 
joins the Durance, while the Var, 
near Entrevaux, makes a wide bend 
to the E., till it unites, first with the 
Tinee, and then with the Vesubie, 
before entering the Mediterranean 
not far from Nice. 

It is not easy to determine where 
the limit between the Maritime Alps 
and the Ligurian Appennines should 
be fixed. That great master of 
practical geography, Napoleon, placed 
the boundary at the Colle d J Altare, 
or di Cadibona (470 m., 1,624 ft.), 
under which now passes the railway 
line from Turin and Alessandria to 
Savona, and this opinion was endorsed 
by the Italian Geographical Congress 
in 1892, on the ground that this pass 
is the best defined depression in the 
mountain ranges round the Gulf 



of Genoa. This division is now 
generally recognised in Italy, and 
there are also geological reasons 
which favour it, as it corresponds 
to the limit between the Miocene and 
Triassic, or somewhat later, rocks. 
But in this work it has been thought 
better to regard the wants of the class 
of travellers for whom it is intended, 
rather than any scientific definition. 
Accordingly, that portion of the 
mountain chain only is included 
which, in common parlance, may be 
called Alpine in character — namely, 
that where the height of the mountains 
is sufficient to maintain considerable 
masses of perpetual snow. The limit 
to which this division applies is exactly 
fixed by the Col de Tenda, traversed 
by the direct route from Turin to Nice. 
E. of that pass the mountains (of which 
the highest is the wild and savage 
Cima Margnareis, 2,649 m - > 8,691 ft. ) 
are soon quite Appennine in character, 
being covered with vegetation to their 
summits ; while in the opposite 
direction we at once find that com- 
bination of rock, and snow or ice, 
which we are used to associate with 
the idea of Alpine scenery. Some 
geographers place the N. limit of the 
Maritime Alps at the Col de Longet, 
which connects the Varaita and 
Ubaye valleys. But this pass, though 
well defined, seems unsuited to form 
the limit between two of the great 
divisions of the Alps, for, if adopted, 
the lofty ranges on the left side of 
the upper Ubaye valley would be 
reckoned with the Maritime Alps, 
while those on the right side would 
belong to the Cottian Alps, a very 
inconvenient arrangement from a 
practical point of view. In every re- 
spect a better limit is the well-marked 
Col de l'Argentiere, one of the great 
historical passes of the Alps, which 
connects the Stura and lower Ubaye 
valleys, and consequently it is adopted 
in the following pages. The W. 
limit of the Maritime Alps is naturally 
formed by the upper valley of the 
Verdon, whence the main route between 
Digne (14 miles by rail from St. Auban, 



INTRODUCTION 



3 



on the main line from Grenoble to 
Marseilles) and Puget Theniers (37 
miles by rail from Nice) may be gained 
either at St. Andre de Meouilles (27 
miles by narrow-gauge railway from 
Digne), or close to Annot, further E. 
Digne, the capital of the Department 
of the Basses Alpes, is 56 miles by rail 
and high road from Puget Theniers. 

Section 1 of this Chapter describes 
the main S.E. ridge mentioned above, 
with its various spurs, &c — that is, 
the Italian bit of the Maritime Alps, 
together with the French valley of the 
Vesubie, which naturally belongs to 
this part of the range. It may appro- 
priately bear the name of the Argentera 
District^ as it includes the monarch 
of the chain, as well as almost all its 
highest peaks. Section 2 takes in 
the three valleys of the Tinee, the 
Var, and the Verdon, which all run 
towards the Mediterranean, so that 
this Section may, in default of a better 
general name, be termed the Seaward 
Valleys. 

In i860, when the county of Nice 
was ceded to France, the Emperor 
Napoleon III. allowed Victor Em- 
manuel II., who already possessed all 
the hunting rights on the N. side of 
the chain, to retain the upper bits of 
the Ciastiglione, Mollieres, Boreon, 
Finestre, and Gordolasca glens, so as 
to secure on its S. side also the free 
exercise of those hunting rights. The 
result is that the frontier is now most 
irregular and intricate. Of recent 
years many fortifications have been 
erected at various points, while the 
valleys and passes are guarded by 
French or Italian troops. Travellers 
are therefore regarded on both sides 
of the frontier with the greatest sus- 
picion, and certain passes and summits 
are absolutely closed to them. A 
passport, vised by the French and 
Italian ambassadors in London, is 
absolutely necessary, while, of course, 
sketching, photographing, taking 
notes, or mapping, as well as any 
conversation with natives on military 
matters, should be most carefully 
avoided, under pain of disagreeable 



consequences. Even visitors to the 
two chief resorts of travellers in the 
Maritime Alps, the Baths of Valdieri 
and St. Martin Vesubie, would do 
well to bear these warnings in mind. 
It is to be hoped that before long the 
Governments of the two countries 
will relax their needless and irritating 
vigilance in the case of travellers who 
simply seek to explore and admire 
I the beauties of a very interesting part 
I of the Alps. 

But, apart from these political 
I obstacles, there is another in the 
way of mountaineers who meditate 
a visit to the Maritime Alps — the 
want of a good guide book to the 
I chain. The first volume (Turin, 
I 1889) of Signori Martelli and Vac- 
carone's excellent ' Guida delle Alpi 
Occidentali ' is, indeed, very satisfac- 
tory for the main chain and its N. spurs ; 
I but for the French side, and for the 
three seaward valleys, there exists 
only a vast amount (unsorted, save 
by means of a good index ) of valuable 
rough material in the 17 volumes of 
the ' Bulletin ' (from 1880 onwards) of 
the Maritime Alps Section of the 
French Alpine Club. Hence a would- 
! be explorer of this part of the Alps is 
I forced to study for himself the notes 
and articles describing the three chief 
' early journeys made in the Maritime 
I Alps — viz. those by Mr. Coolidge 
j (' Alpine Journal,' vol. ix. ), by Signor 
I Ghigliottf (< Bollettino ' of the Italian 
j Alpine Club for 1883), and by Herr 
j Purtscheller {ibid, for 1892, also in 
German in the ' Zeitschrift ' of the 
German and Austrian Alpine Club 
for 1893). Detailed articles on the 
general characteristics of the range 
were published by Signor F. Mader 
and A. Viglino in the 4 Bollettino ' for 
1895-6, and 1897. 

Even now it is not very well known 
that, in the close neighbourhood of a 
place so frequented by strangers as 
Nice, and easily reached on its N. 
side by railway from Turin via Cuneo 
and Limone, there is an Alpine range, 
not indeed rivalling in grandeur the 
great snow -clad peaks of the more 

B 2 



MARITIME ALPS. § I. ARGENTERA DISTRICT 



northerly portion of the Alps, yet full 
of wild and varied scenery. Its valleys 
too possess the great advantage of 
being accessible some weeks earlier 
in summer, and at least a month later 
in autumn, than those districts which 
are not, as this is, directly within the 
influence of the Mediterranean 
climate ; but experience has shown 
that the winter snow remains on its 
higher peaks quite as late as in other 
portions of the Alps. All the sheets 
of the French and T57 ^, and of 
the Italian ^-Joo an ^ 25000 Government 
surveys for this district have now been 
issued. 



SECTION 1. 

ARGENTERA DISTRICT. 

The town of Cuneo (or Coni) stands 
at the S. W. corner of the great plain 
extending through Piedmont, Lom- 
bardy, and Venetia, from the foot of 
the Cottian and Graian Alps to the 
shores of the Adriatic, and is situated 
on a high terrace at the confluence of 
the rivers Stura and Gesso. The 
Stura descends E. from the Col de 
FArgentiere, and drains the N.E. 
slope of the Maritime Alps ; the 
Gesso, with its affluent the Verme- 
nagiia, carries down the waters from 
the N. side of the chain rising S. and 
S.W. of Cuneo. Corresponding to 
the Gesso and the Vermenagna on 
the N. side of the chain are the 
Vesubie and the Roja streams on its 
S. side ; but these do not unite then- 
waters, for the Roja, after a short 
course of about 35 miles, falls into 
the Mediterranean at Ventimiglia, 
while the Vesubie, bending to the W. , 
joins the Var under Levens, some 
distance N. of Nice. 

As pointed out in the Introduction to 
this Chapter, this Section describes the 
main range of the Maritime Alps, which 
runsS.E., then E., from the Rocher 



des Trois Eveques. This portion of the 
Alpine chain is traversed by a single 
carriage road (soon to be replaced by 
a railway), that across the Col de 
Tmda. The only other pass that is 
at all frequented is that of the Col 
delle Finestre (traversed by a bad mule 
track), about 13 miles W. of the Col 
de Tenda, but there are many other 
passes which offer no difficulty to 
mountaineers. The principal sum- 
mits of this portion of the Maritime 
Alps are (reckoning from the N.W., 
the Clai Super ieur (2,990 m., 
9,810 ft.), the highest wholly within 
the borders of the French Department 
of the Alpes Maritimes, the Mont 
Tinibras (3,032 m., 9,948 ft.), the 
Monte Matto (3,087 m., 10,128 ft.), 
the Punt a delP Argent era (3,317 m., 
10,883 ft.), the culminating point of 
the entire range of the Maritime 
Alps, the Cima dei Gelas (3,135 m., 
10,286 ft.), and the Mont Clapier 
(3,046 m., 9,994 ft.) The Cima 
Mercantour, to which the height of 
3,167 m. (10,391 ft. ) was attributed 
on the old Sardinian map, has been 
reduced by the most recent observa- 
tions to only 2,775 m - (9> io 5 ft.) 

Excellent headquarters are found 
at the Baths of Valdieri, and Limone, 
on the N. side of the chain, and at 
St. Martin Vesubie, the Madonna 
delle Finestre, and San Dalmazzo di 
Tenda, on its S. slope. St. Etienne 
de Tinee, at the head of the Tinee 
I valley, is the most convenient start - 
I ing point for the Tinibras and its 
I neighbours. There is now a Club hut 
at the S.E. foot of the Argentera, as 
well as a cave hollowed out in the 
rock, which serves as a Club hut 
(now in very bad condition), in the 
Gordolasca glen, between the Tenda 
high road and St. Martin Vesubie. 

Apart from the advantage of being 
accessible at seasons when travellers 
are for the most part shut out by 
climate from many other portions of 
the Alps, this region offers special 
attractions to the naturalist. Within 
a narrow range may be found a con- 
siderable number of very rare plants, 



ROUTE A. TURIN AND CUNEO TO NICE 



5 



several of which are not known to 
exist elsewhere. The geology also is 
interesting, and would probably repay 
further examination. A crystalline 
axis is flanked on both sides by 
highly-inclined and much -altered 
sedimentary rocks, which probably 
include the entire series from the 
Carboniferous to the Cretaceous rocks, 
in some parts overlain by Eocene 
deposits. 



Route A. 



TURIN AND CUNEO TO NICE OR 
VENTIMIGLIA BY THE COL DE 
TENDA. PESIO GLEN. 





M. 


Borgo San Dalmazzo 


8 (fromCuneo) 


Limone . 


20 


Tenda 


33? 


San Dalmazzo di 




Tenda . 


36 


Giandola . 


46 


Sospel 


58^ 


L'Escarene 


74 


Nice 


84 


Railway from Turin 


to Cuneo (55 m. , 



^4 — 3 111s. 1 cii.ua _L/iiiitjj.ic in., 

ih hr. more). Carriage road thenee 
to Nice, 64 m. : diligences in c. 
20 hrs. from Cuneo to Nice, or vice 
versa, starting from Cuneo daily at 
9.30 a.m., and from Nice daily at 
8.30 p.m. From Tenda (13^ m. 
from Limone) a mail cart runs twice 
daily in about 6 hrs. by the Roja 
valley to Ventimiglia (27 m. from 
Tenda, and 22 m. by rail from 
Nice). 

The railway from Turin runs 
nearly due S. along the almost level 
plain, skirting the base of the Cottian 
Alps, and frequently commanding 
fine views of the lofty range crowned 
by the peak of the Monte Viso, till it 
reaches the little town of 

Cuneo (French, Coni). This lies 
nearly at the head of a narrow inlet from 



the great plain of the main valley of the 
Po, which is enclosed on the S. and W. 
by the outlying ridges of the Maritime 
and Cottian Alps. It is the meeting 
place of roads from the Val Maira, 
from the Val Grana, from the Col de 
l'Argentiere through the Stura valley, 
and from Valdieri by the Gesso 
valley, besides that through the 
Vermenagna valley from the Col de 
Tenda. The fortifications of Cuneo, 
once thought very strong, and dating 
from the sixteenth century, were razed 
in 1800 by order of the French. 

The railway is carried along the 
narrow tongue of land separating the 
Stura and the Gesso, at the N. ex- 
tremity of which Cuneo is built, past 
Boves through level, richly cultivated 
ground to (8 m.) Borgo San Dal- 
mazzo, a large village at the very foot 
of the mountains, and at the junction 
of the Gesso, flowing from the S.W., 
with the Vermenagna, coming in 
from the S.E. The line crosses the 
Gesso, and then ascends the pictures- 
que valley of the Vermenagna, pass- 
ing Roccavione, and Robilante, and 
mounting 1,237 ft. from the Borgo 
before reaching (20 m. from Cuneo) 

Limone (1,009 m -> 3>3 IQ ft-)> the 
present terminus of the railway, though 
it is hoped to carry it on in a few 
years through a tunnel to Tenda, 
and ultimately to Ventimiglia. 
limone is the best headquarters for 
any one wishing to explore this neigh- 
bourhood, and, besides the other rare 
plants mentioned below, the botanist 
may find near the village, Arabis 
serpyllifolia, Genista cinerea, Astra- 
galus flurpureus, and A. depresses, 
Lamium longiflonwi , Sec. 

[Three specially interesting excur- 
sions may be made from Limone, 
each of which affords a means of 
reaching Tenda otherwise than by 
the high road. 

{a) On September 26, 1852, the 
writer (J. B.) followed the main 
stream of the Vermenagna S. W. to its 
source at the head of the wild Abisso 
glen, under the peak of the Rocca 
delV Abisso. On the way are many 



6 MARITIME ALPS. § r. ARGENTERA DISTRICT 



interesting plants— e.g. Silene cam- 
panula, Primula marginata, Satitreja 
piperella, Achillea herba rota, and 
Saxifraga pedemontana. At the head 
of this glen there is a depression in 
the chain, S.E. of the Rocca, and ap- 
proached through a hollow filled with 
huge fallen rocks and patches of 
snow. Clouds having come on. the 
writer was unable to ascertain whether 
the descent on the S. side of this 
wild pass is practicable, though it 
probably is. But to reach Tenda 
thence proved not difficult, for, on 
returning for less than an hour 
t >wards Limone, the Col delta Mar- 
gheria is seen on the right, or S. : it is 
approached by steep grass slopes, 
crosses the main chain, and leads 
down to the high road at the S. foot 
of the Col de Tenda. A mountaineer 
would naturally be tempted to climb 
the Rocca, accessible by this glen in 
5 hrs. from Limone, or in 3 hrs. by 
mule path to the summit from the 
top of the Col de Tenda ; but, as it 
commands a view of the forts on that 
pass, access to it is strictly prohibited. 

(b) A pedestrian may vary the way 
to Tenda by mounting S.E. from 
Limone, through the San Giovanni 
glen to the Col dell a Boaira (2. 105 m. . 
6,906 ft.), at its head, whence he 
descends into the very head of the 
long glen of Rio Freddo, which joins 
the Roja glen close to Tenda. A 
bad mule track traverses this pass, 
which takes 6 hrs. Besides other 
rarities, such as Iberis garrexiana, 
Phyteuma Balhisianum , &e,, the 
botanist may find the extremely 
scarce Moehrhigia papulosa on the 
limestone rocks by a house (? hermi- 
tage) scooped out of the face of the 
mountain on the left side of the valley, 
about 2 miles above Tenda. 

(c) The most beautiful excursion 
near Limone is, however, that over 
the Besimauda to the Certosa di Pesio, 
whence an easy pass leads the next 
day over to Tenda. Mounting first 
the stony ravine of Armeliina, then 
flower-sprinkled grassy slopes, the 
traveller gains in 2|-3 hrs, from \ 



Limone the crest of the broad grassy 
ridge separating the Vermenagna and 
Pesio glens, at a point called ' U 
Colle ' on the Italian map. The 
mule path descends direct to Pesio in 
2 hrs. , but in fine weather no traveller 
should omit to walk in a N. direction 
along this grassy crest for about \\ 
hr. to its highest point, known as 
the Besimauda (2,404 m., 7,887 ft.), 
but called Becca Costa Rossa by the 
Italian map, which gives the former 
name to a lower point still further N. 
The view from the Besimauda is one 
of the finest imaginable, including 
not only the plain of Piedmont, with 
valleys opening and Alpine ridges 
breaking down into it, but the whole 
chain of the Western and Central 
Alps (save Mont Blanc himself) from 
the Viso through Monte Rosa to the 
Disgrazia, while the Mediterranean, 
and even the city of Genoa, are 
visible in the opposite direction. 
The descent direct on the E. to 
the Certosa takes only 2 hrs. 
(3§ hrs. up). The Certosa di Pesio 
(862 m. , 2,828 ft. ) is an old Carthusian 
monastery, founded in 1 172, but now 
secularised, and used as an hotel, 
one of the loveliest in the Alps, with 
its half-mile of cloisters, its quaint 
two-storied monks' houses, and the 
wonderful chestnut woods which sur- 
round it on every side. From a 
little chapel, a few steps away. 
Monte Rosa, the Weisshorn, and the 
Matterhorn are seen across the 
shadowy plain. The Certosa is 
reached in 2^-3 hrs. from Cuneo, 
10 m. distant, by a good carriage 
road through a most picturesque glen, 
with several hamlets nestling in it. 
Many pleasant excursions may be 
made from the Certosa, the air in the 
valley being distinctly Alpine, so 
that it forms one of the most ideal 
resting places in the Alps. The head 
of the Pesio glen is closed by the 
jagged rock -crest of the Cima Mar- 
guards (2,649 m -? 8,691 ft.), the 
highest of the Ligurian Appennines. 
A practised rock-climber might per- 
haps scale this great wall direct, but 



ROUTE A. TURIN AND CUNEO TO NICE 



7 



the ascent is more easily made from 
the pass of the Croce di Malaberga 
(2,200 m., 7,218 ft.), on the W., by 
smooth rocks, deep hollows, and a 
steep rock gully, or from the head of 
the Rio Freddo valley on the S., the 
ascent taking 5^ hrs. from Tenda. 
The Malaberga Pass, just mentioned, 
may be reached in 3 hrs. from 
the Certosa, the descent thence by 
the Rio Freddo glen to Tenda taking 
4 more. A military road runs from 
the Colle dei Signori, S. of, and 
\\ hr. below, the peak, to the Mala- 
berga Pass, and thence S.W. along 
the crest to the fort on the Pepino 
hillock, just E. of the Col de Tenda. J 
The road from Limone towards the 
Col de Tenda mounts in long zigzags 
by a spur of the mountain which pro- 
jects between two deeply-cut glens of 
the main valley. At one point the 
jld mule path (now a cart track) leads 
to the right, and the old char road is 
in the centre, but the new road since 
1883 mounts to the left, in order to 
reach (4 m. from Limone) the 
entrance of the great tunnel, pierced 
in the eighteenth century by the Duke 
of Savoy, but only completed in 1883. 
Its N. extremity is 4,331 ft. ; it is 
2 miles long, and is lighted by elec- 
tricity, while its S. issue is 4,196 ft. 
The Col de Tenda itself is 1,873 m - 
(6,145 ft.), and the old carriage road 
leads over it. But of recent years 
very important fortifications have 
been constructed by the Italians on 
the pass itself, so that travellers are 
no longer permitted to visit it, which 
is a pity, as from it there is a glorious 
view of Monte Viso, Monte Rosa, 
the Matterhorn, the Dent Blanche, 
the Grand Paradis, &c. (The pass 
was approached on either side by a very 
great number of short zigzags, as the 
continuous slope was very steep. ) On 
issuing from the tunnel the new road 
descends by some steep zigzags to the 
level of the Roja, and follows it for 
several miles through a narrow rocky 
gorge to (13J m. from Limone) 

Tenda (815 m., 2,674 ft. ), a small 
village very picturesquely situated 



' under a rock, crowned by a fragment 
of the castle wherein the unfortunate 
Beatrice di Tenda was done to death 
by her husband, one of the Visconti 
Dukes of Milan. The passes and 
ascents to be made hence have been 
noticed above, and Tenda is not well 
situated as headquarters, but the 
neighbourhood is full of interest to a 
naturalist or geologist. Among other 
very rare plants to be found on the rocks 
over the village, Silene cordifolia, 
Asperula hexaphylla, Saxifraga 

I diafiensioideS) and S. cochlearis, with 
Passerina dioica, may be specially 
noticed ; the first two are not known 
to grow out of this district. 

2.\ miles below Tenda is an old 
monaster} 7 , now used as an hotel, 
called San Dalmazzo di Tenda (696m., 
2,284 ft.), in a narrow and confined 
situation, though affording excellent 
headquarters for the botanist and the 
mountaineer. It is, however, cool 
and pleasant in summer, as there are 
grounds planted with chestnut trees, 
many cloisters, and a rushing stream, 
as well as passing breezes. 

[2^ m. E. of San Dalmazzo, in a side 
glen, is the picturesque village of Briga 
(765 m., 2,510 ft.), clustering round 
a church with a tall campanile and 

! overlooked by the ruined tower of a 

I castle. Briga has of late years 
become frequented as a summer 
resort ; the valley leading up to it 
abounds in rare plants. J 

[W. of San Dalmazzo a consider- 

I able and savage valley descends to 
join that of the Roja. It is called 
the Valle della Miniera, from some 
mines of argentiferous sulphide of 
lead, which have been known for 
many centuries, and alternately 

I worked or abandoned as circum- 

j stances rendered them profitable. A 
cart track runs up in 2-2J hrs. from 
San Dalmazzo to the buildings used 
in connection with the mines, which 

I stand at a height of 1,494 m., 4,902 ft., 

I not far W. of the point at which the 
valley splits into two branches. 

The N. branch is the Casterino 

I glen, a long, winding valley. Just 



8 MARITIME ALPS. § i. ARGENTERA DISTRICT 



where it turns to the W. , and takes i 
the name of Valmasca, is the easy 
grass pass — traversed by a mule track 
— of the Col del Sabbioue (2,264 m -> 
7,428 ft.) — splendid edelweiss on its 
S. slope — by which 9 hrs.' good 
walking suffice to go from San 1 
Dalmazzo by way of Entraque to the j 
town of Valdieri. At the very head \ 
of the Valmasca the Col delV Agnel j 
(2,568 m. 8,426 ft. ), above the fine | 
Lago dell' Agnel, and N. of the I 
Mont Clapier, gives access to the I 
Mont Colomb glen, by which Entraque j 
is also attained ; this is the finest of 
the passes leading in that direction 
from Tenda. A little S. of the ! 
Mont Clapier is the easy Col della \ 
Pons, leading to the head of the Val 
Gordolasca, whence Mont Clapier 
(3,046 m., 9.994 ft.) is easily as- 
cended. It takes about 3 hrs. from 
the Club cave or hut, near the Vastera 
Barma (2,160 m., 7,087 ft.), one of 
the highest chalets in the Val Gordo - 
lasca (see Route C). 

The W. branch of the Miniera 
glen is the Voile delV I?ife7-no, and 
through it, past the Laghi Lunghi j 
(2 hrs. ), the Pas so del Trent (2,561 m. , 
8,403 ft.) — whence the Cima del 
Diavolo (2,687 m., 8,816 ft.), on the 
S., is accessible in \ hr. — and the 
Pas so d 1 Arpeto (2,563 m., 8.409 ft.) 
lead to the Val Gordolasca : hence a 
second easy pass can be crossed to 
the Madonna delle Finestre, or the 
Gordolasca glen followed to its junc- 
tion with the Vesubie valley at 
Roquebilliere, 5 m. below St. Martin 
Vesubie. But the most frequently 
made excursion in the Valle dell' 
Inferno is the perfectly easy ascent of 
the Monte Bego (2,873 m -> 9>4 2 6 ft.), 
which takes \\ hr. from the Laghi | 
Lunghi, or 5-6 hrs. from San Dal- 
mazzo. It is a very fine panoramic 
point of view, and has been called 
the ' Rigi of the Maritime Alps.' 
W. of this summit, and X. of the 
Laghi Lunghi — about 3 hrs. from the 
Miniera, or 1 hr. from the Laghi 
Lunghi — are two solitary mountain 
tarns called the Laghi delle Mera- \ 



viglie, from the strange inscriptions 
and drawings found on the rocks 
below them. These have given rise 
to the wildest theories, and many 
pamphlets, of which Signor Xavello, 
in the ' Bollettino' for 1883, pp. 16- 
20, gives a full account, with plates. 
They are most probably the handi- 
work of shepherds and herdsmen in 
their idle moments.] 

A few minutes below San Dalmazzo 
is the Italian custom house, and then 
the high road passes for several miles 
through a narrow gorge between steep, 
massive walls of rock, with here and 
there an opening which some torrent 
has cut through the mass, one of 
these marking the frontier between 
Italy and France. The bold forms 
of the rocks, and the luxuriant vege- 
tation, which crowns every height 
and fills ever}' hollow, make the 
scenery of this road worthy to com- 
pare with that of almost any other 
Alpine pass. The botanist will re- 
mark with interest, beside the saxi- 
frages and other Alpine plants that 
have descended from the surrounding 
mountains, many species of warmer 
latitudes, and especially the Cineraria 
maritima, which, save in gardens, is 
seldom seen except in the warmest 
situations on the shores of the Medi- 
terranean. Between the villages of 
Fontan and Breil is almost the only 
habitat of the curious plant Ballota 
spinosa. 

At Fontan (5 m. below San 
Dalmazzo) is the French custom 
house. A short distance beyond, 
below the quaint village of Saorge, 
stretching crescentwise on the top 
of the cliffs, which expand in front of 
it into an amphitheatre, and leave 
room for slopes of olives, the Cairos 
glen on the W. joins the Roja valley : 
through it the Col de Raus and the 
Baisse de St. Veran lead over to the 
Vesubie valley, gained at Roque- 
billiere or La Bollene respectively. 
The high road enters a narrow defile 
below Saorge, crosses andrecrosses the 
Roja several times, and then follows 
that stream to (5 m. from Fontan) 



ROUTE B. CUNEO TO THE BATHS OF VALDIERI 9 



Giandola. Hence the Roja runs 
in a tolerably direct course to Venti- 
miglia, where it falls into the 
Mediterranean. 

[A fine new carriage road (i6Jm., 
3 J- hrs.' drive) runs past Breil, and 
through a series of very picturesque 
gorges down the Roja valley, the 
vegetation gradually showing the 
nearness of the traveller to the Medi- 
terranean, to Ventimiglia (1 hr. by 
rail from Nice). This route to Nice 
is in every way preferable to the long 
and tedious round by Sospel.] 

The traveller by the old route to 
Nice is, however, disappointed to find 
that he must here leave the Roja valley 
in order to cross a succession of steep 
rocky ridges, separating as many short 
glens which intervene between the 
Roja and Paillon valleys. The first 
of these passes is the Col de Brouis 
(838 m., 2,749 ft.), 458 m. (1,503 ft.) 
above Giandola, and 489 m. (1,604 ft.) 
above Sospel, 12 J m. from Giandola, 
and surrounded by fig trees, olives, 
&c. (Hence a carriage road (14 m.) 
leads in 2\ hrs. over the Col de Cas- 
tillon to Mentone. ) A still steeper 
ascent of 350 m. (1,148 ft.) over 
rocky soil, in summer nearly bare of 
vegetation, leads to the Col de Braus 
(999 m., 3,278 ft), and so down to 
V Escarhie (13 m. from Sospel). 

[Hence a very pleasant detour may 
be made by carriage road to Luceram 
( I hr. ), and on in 2 \ hrs. more to Peira 
Cava (1,400 m., 4,593 ft.), a conve- 
nient centre for excursions. A good 
road runs on in 3 hrs. to the Aution 
(2,080 m., 6,824 ft. ), a fine point of 
view, just S. of the Baisse de St. 
Veran, and there are many walks in 
the forest, while a bad mule path leads 
in 3 hrs. from Peira Cava, past La 
Croisetle f to La Bollene, in the Vesu- 
bie valley. J 

Twelve and a half miles more, 
across a third less lofty and trouble- 
some ridge, bring the traveller along 
the bank of the Paillon torrent to Nice. 



Route B. 

CUNEO TO THE BATHS OF VALDIERI, 
EXCURSIONS AND ASCENTS FROM 
THE BATHS. 

Steam tramway to Borgo San Dal- 
mazzo ; thence good carriage road. 

The way from Cuneo to Borgo San 
Dalmazzo has been described in the 
last Route, but a traveller bound for 
Valdieri should prefer the tramway 
to the railway, as there are more 
frequent trains, and the distance is a 
good deal shorter (5 m. instead of 
8 m.) From the Borgo the road 
follows the left bank of the Gesso for 
1 1 J m. from Cuneo to the large 
village or small town of Valdieri 
(757 m. , 2,484 ft. ), the last in the main 
valley, which here expands into a 
small plain about a mile broad. On 
the S. side there opens a considerable 
lateral valley, in which, 3 m. off by 
a carriage road, stands the village of 
Entraque, whence many passes lead 
over the neighbouring ranges in 
various directions (see Routes A and C). 
After passing the entrance to this 
glen, the road from Valdieri to the 
Baths mounts continuously through 
the narrow and very striking glen of 
the Gesso, where the stream brawls its 
way amid huge blocks of gneiss and 
granite. In the plain of San? Anna, 
at the junction of the Me?-is torrent 
from the W. (which here makes a 
fine waterfall), there is a royal hunting 
lodge, together with a few houses 
clustered round a saw mill. Other- 
wise scarcely a house is to be seen, 
and the traveller is surprised to find 
himself thus near the shores of the 
Mediterranean, amid scenery as wild 
as any in the Alps, especially when, 
as often happens till mid-July, large 
patches of snow lie unmelted in 
hollows beside the torrent. A turn 
of the glen suddenly shows (11 m. 
from Valdieri) a handsome bridge, 
and behind it a massive three- 
storied stone building, with a few 
houses in the Swiss chalet style about 



io MARITIME ALPS. § i. ARGENTERA DISTRICT 



it. The Baths of Valdieri have en- 
joyed local celebrity in Piedmont 
since the end of the fifteenth century, 
but it was after the construction, in 
1857, of the present Stabilimento, 
and, in 1859, of the carriage road 
leading up to it, that the Baths became 
frequented. They stand at a height 
of 1,346 m., 4,416 ft., at the meeting 
of the Lourousa, the Valletta, and 
the Valasco glens, so that the climate 
is cool, while the position is very 
convenient for the mountaineer, al- 
though the hotel is only open from 
July I to September 1. The society 
is almost exclusively Piedmontese, 
and in the season is very numerous. 

There are many mineral springs 
here, of which three are used. 1 . A 
very hot sulphureous spring, issuing 
from the rock at about 145 0 F. 2. A 
sulphureous spring containing organic 
matter, and with a temperature of 
95° F. : it is called Acqua di Santa 
Lucia, and is celebrated for its efficacy 
in ophthalmic complaints. 3. A 
saline spring, which is a mild purga- 
tive. But the most singular curative 
agent here is a cryptogamic plant — 
the Ulvalabyrinthiformis of Allioni — 
which grows on the surface of the rock 
over which the thermal waters trickle 
down to the Gesso. This forms gela- 
tinous masses three or four inches 
thick, in which, under the microscope, 
minute insects are seen to thrive at a 
temperature of 135 0 F. Large 
strips of this matter are taken off and 
applied to the body, being found very 
useful in some cases of internal 
disease, for old wounds, &c. For further 
details as to the treatment at Valdieri 
see the little works published by 
Signori Lace and Varalda. 

This branch of the Gesso valley, as 
well as that of Entraque (see next 
Route), is the favourite resort of the 
King of Italy for the sake of the 
hunting, as the game in these parts 
is preserved by him, so that moun- 
taineers should be careful not to 
disturb it. He has several small 
hunting lodges scattered about, while, 
to suit his convenience, many mule 



paths (as in the Cogne district) have 
been constructed. These are very 
handy for the mountaineer, who 
should be warned, however, that they 
often end in some wild spot, whence 
there is no other apparent exit. 

The neighbourhood of the Baths 
has long been celebrated for the 
beauty and rarity of its flora, and even 
the least botanically inclined visitor 
is attracted by the variety and 
brilliancy of the flowers which may 
be found within a short stroll of the 
Stabilimento. Conspicuous among 
these are Lychnis Jlos jovis, Saponaria 
ocymoides, Potentilla valderia, Viola 
cenisia, Paradisia liliastruni, Lilium 
bulbiferum, Achillea herba rota, 
Nasttirthvn pyrenaicum, and several 
Alpine species of Primula. The 
Alpine laburnum, Cytisus alpinus, is 
extremely common, and ascends be- 
yond the limit of other trees to a great 
height on the mountain-sides, gilding 
the dark rocks with its profuse masses 
I of bright yellow flowers. In mossy 
I places Cardamine asa^i folia and 
Tozzia alpina are abundant. The 
Valasco glen, which is also interesting 
through its memorials of former 
glacial action, is particularly rich. 
On the rocks and slopes on either 
side may be found Arabis allionii, 
Silene cordifolia, Saxifraga florulenta, 
and S. pedemontana, Cephalaria al- 
pina, Pedicularis incarnata, and 
other very rare plants. 

A pleasant excursion may be made 
up the most westerly of the three 
glens which meet close to the Baths. 
It is called the Valasco, and is tra- 
versed by a cart track, which mounts 
in I hr. to one of the King's hunting 
boxes, beyond which a footpath leads 
up by many zigzags in hr. more to 
the fine Laghi di Valscura, not far 
below the Bassa di Druos (Rte. E), 
over which the valley of the Tinee is 
easily reached. Another walk is by 
the mule path up the S. glen, the 
Valletta, on the way to the Col de 
la Ciriegia (Rte. D). Yet a third 
I excursion may be made to the 
I Lourousa glen on the S.E. : a royal 



ROUTE B. CUNEO TO THE BATHS OF VALDIERI u 



hunting path leads all the way up it 
in 3ij hrs. to the Col de Chiapous 
(2,520 m., 8,268 ft.), at its head, 
giving access to the Rovina glen. 
The Lourousa glen is striking in itself 
and commands a fine view of the 
precipices of the Punta dell' Argentera, 
and of the steep snow couloir leading 
up them, the latter being also seen, 
though of course not so well, from 
the bridge over the Gesso, just below 
the Stabilimento. 

The Baths are also the most con- 
venient starting point for several 
ascents. The chief is that of the 
Punta dell' Argentera (3,317 m., 
10,883 ft.), the monarch of the Mari- 
time Alps. This was first climbed in 
1879 by Mr. Coolidge, who mounted 
by the Lourousa glen, the steep 
snow couloir just mentioned, and the 
N. ridge more or less : the time taken 
was about 5 hrs.' walking from the 
Baths, and it was ascertained that 
the most southerly summit was the 
highest. Since 1879 two other routes 
have been struck out, in order to 
avoid step-cutting up the steep snow 
couloir. One mounts the Valletta, 
and, after climbing up by a long 
gully of shifting stones to the highest 
depression on the S. shoulder of the 
peak, above the gap between it and 
its next neighbour to the S., then 
follows either the S. ridge or a ledge 
on its E. side and a crack to the 
summit (5-6 hrs. from the Baths). 
The other starts from the Col de 
Chiapous (see above) and traverses the 
great E. face until it rejoins the route 
of 1879 (6 hrs. from the Baths). The 
route by the E. face or ledge is best 
suited for those who spend the night 
at the new 4 Genova ' Club hut, 
built in 1897 at a height of about 
2,000 m. (6,562 ft.), and about 200 
yds. from the Monighet hut ( 1 ,960 m. ), 
near the point where the track from 
the Col de Chiapous reaches the 
Rovina glen. This hut is about 4 hrs. 
distant from Entraque by way of the 
Rovina glen. A party coming over 
from St. Martin Vesubie can best 
reach this hut by way of the Ciriegia 



[ inn and the Col delle Rovine, 
I while from the Madonna delle Finestre 
the most convenient route is by the 
Col delle Finestre and the Passo di 
j Fenestrelle. The ascent from the Club 
I hut takes about 3 hrs. Once on or 
I near the N. ridge of the Argentera, it 
is but an easy scramble of a few minutes 
to gain the N. extremity of the 
range, now called Gelas di Lourousa 
(3,260 m., 10,696 ft.), but formerly 
Monte Stella : its two points are 
divided from the Argentera by a 
depression formed by the head of the 
steep snow couloir descending to the 
small glacier in the Lourousa glen. 
The Cima di A r asla (3,108 m., 
10,197 ft.) is best ascended by its 
S. face, while Herr Purtschelier has 
j shown that an active climber may in 
| a single day from the Baths climb 
j successively the Cima del Bans 
j (3,068 m. , 10,066 ft.), the Cima 
B7-ocan (3,054 m. , 10,020 ft.), the 
Cima Balma Ghilie (3,010 m., 
9,876 ft.), and the Cima Jlfercantour 
(2,775 m -> 9, 105 ft.), all of these 
peaks rising near the S.E. corner of 
j the Valletta. 

The favourite ascent (mule path to 
within 20 min. of the summit) from 
the Baths is that of the Monte Matto 
(3,087 m., 10,128 ft.), which rises 
very steeply in a great wall on the 
N. of the Stabilimento. The ascent 
is best made by way of one of the 
royal hunting paths, which branches 
off from that in the Vaiasco nearly 
I hr. from the Baths, and then 
mounts N. till it gains the ridge 
separating the glen which has been 
ascended from that of Meris, leading 
down to Sant' Anna. Hence an easy 
walk over stones brings the traveller 
I to the summit of the lower and E. 
peak, 4§ hrs. from the Baths. It 
commands an extensive view T , which 
is still finer from the higher W. peak, 
gained in 20 min. by steep but good 
rocks. From both points the Stabili- 
mento is seen in the gorge imme- 
diately at the spectator's foot. The 
return may be made by the Meris 
glen, or by a steep rock descent of 



12 MARITIME ALPS. § i. 



ARGENTERA DISTRICT 



2 hrs. down the S. wall of the 
peak. 

For the passes from the Baths in 
various directions, see Rtes. C, D, 
and E. 



Route C. 

VALDIERI TO ST. MARTIN VESUBIE 
AND NICE BY THE COL DELLE 
FINESTRE. EXCURSIONS AND AS- 
CENTS FROM THE MADONNA 
DELLE FINESTRE AND ST. MARTIN 
VESUBIE. 

Mule path to St. Martin ; carriage road 
(and railway for a bit) thence. 

As mentioned in Route B the main 
valley of the Gesso receives a con- 
siderable affluent a little above the 
town of Valdieri. This is called 
the Gesso eP Entraqur 9 and is formed 
by the union of the numerous tor- 
rents which drain the N. slope of the 
extensive glacier-clad protogine mass 
of the Cima dei Gelas, and Mont 
Clapier, the highest in this portion of 
the Maritime Alps. A char road 
runs up in 3 m. from Valdieri to 
Entraque, a large village placed, as 
the name indicates, at the junction of 
two mountain torrents. Through the 
glen to the S.E. lies the way by the 
Col del Sabbione to San Dalmazzo di 
Tenda, noticed in Route A. The 
glen on the S. is itself formed higher 
up by the union of two minor glens. 

One is that of Rovina, through which 
leads the unfrequented pass of the 
Col delle Rovine {2,726 m., 8,944 ft-)> 
the route over which, after tra- 
versing the upper Boreon glen, joins 
that from the Col de la Ciriegia 
(Rte. D) above St. Martin Vesubie 
(reached in 10 hrs. from Valdieri) : 
on the way the track crosses the 
King's hunting path which leads 
from the Baths of Valdieri over the 
Col de Chiapous to the Rovina glen, 
and then crosses the Passo di Fenes- 



trelle to the foot of the last ascent to 
the Col delle Finestre. 

The other glen forks at the spot 
where one of the King's hunting 
lodges is placed. The S. E. arm leads 
by the Col dell' Agnel to San Dalmazzo 
di Tenda (Rte. A), and also by the 
Passo del Pagarin (2,815 m - » 
9,236 ft.), practically the only glacier 
pass in the entire range, in 7-8 hrs, 
from Valdieri to the head of the Val 
Gordolasca (see below). 

The most frequented route to St. 
Martin Vesubie (mule path all the 
way) lies through the S.W. arm, 
after passing the King's hunting 
lodge. The path is here and there 
damaged by rocks which have fallen 
from the neighbouring slopes, but 
there is no difficulty, and, in 5 hrs. 
from Valdieri, the traveller finds 
himself on the Col delle Finestre 
(2,471 m., 8,107 ft.), the most fre- 
quented path across the Maritime 
Alps, with the sole exception of the 
Col de Tenda. (The name should 
properly be ' della Finestra, 5 as it 
probably comes from a single 
' window ' formed by the rocks on 
the steep slopes of the Caire della 
Madonna (2,531 m.), to the E. of the 
inn, from which the opening is per- 
fectly visible. ) From the Col both the 
Mediterranean and Monte Rosa are 
seen in opposite directions. A good 
hour below the pass is the Sanctuary 
and Inn of the Madonna delle Finestre 
(1,886 m., 6,188 ft.), gained after 
passing the Finestre lake, and the 
mule track which leads over the Passo 
del Ladi-o to the Boreon valley. 

[This mountain inn is the best 
headquarters for a mountaineer in 
this district, as the accommodation is 
very fair (the inn is crowded only in 
the middle of August), while it lies 
3,071 ft. higher than St. Martin 
Vesubie, and far nearer the great 
mountains. Many rare flowers are 
found here, especially the remark- 
able Saxifraga Jlorulenta^ which 
grows on the ridges of rock above 
the Sanctuary, 

The Cima Agnelliera (2,699 m., 



ROUTE C. VALDIERI TO ST. MARTIN VESUBIE 13 



8,855 ft.), N.W. of the Madonna, is a 
fine view point, and is accessible thence 
in 2§ hrs. or so. The snows of the 
Cima dei Gelas (3,135 m., 10,286 ft.) 
— first ascended by Count Paul de 
St. Robert in 1864 — are seen from 
the inn, the highest summit being the 
left-hand one of the two cairn- 
crowned peaks visible to the right of 
the Col delle Finestre. Its ascent is 
the chief expedition to be made from 
the Madonna, whence it takes 4 hrs. 
or less by way of the S. slope, and a 
steep snow couloir on the E. (that on 
the W. has also been scaled) leading 
up to a notch between the two 
highest points, that to the N.E. 
being the loftiest. The view is most 
magnificent, including the sea, the 
Lerins islands, near Cannes, Antibes, 
and the mouth of the Var, near Nice, 
as well as a wide mountain panorama 
in other directions and even Corsica. 
The peak can also be gained from the 
Maledia ice field (which, forming six 
small glaciers, stretches for 2 \ m. along 
the N. foot of the range from the Gelas 
to the Mont Clapier), but some steep 
rocks above that glacier must be 
scaled before attaining the ridge E. of 
the Gelas. 

Separated from the Finestre glen 
by a jagged chain on the E. is the 
long and winding Val Gordolasca, the 
passes from which towards the Tenda 
road have been indicated in Rte. A. 
Several other passes lead into it from 
the Col delle Finestre track, that most 
convenient for climbers being the 
Pas so di Mo7tt Colomb (2,540 m., 
8,334 ft.), by which, in 2 J hrs. from the 
Madonna, the traveller may gain the 
Club Cave (reported now to be in a very 
bad condition), near the Vastera Barma 
(2,160m., 7,087 ft.) This poor shelter 
is admirably placed for the exploration 
of the neighbouring summits, of which 
it may suffice to name two. The 
Mont Clapier (3,046 m., 9,994 ft.) is 
thence accessible in 3 hrs. without 
the slightest difficulty — also by its W. 
face in 1 hr. from the Passo del Pa- 
garin — while the view it commands 
cannot be excelled even by that from 



the Gelas. The Punta della Ma- 
ledia (formerly called Caire Cabret) 
(3,004 m., 9,856 ft.) is a fine rock 
tower, N.W. of the Passo del Pagarin, 
and can be ascended from the Club 
cave in 3 hrs. by way of the Lago 
Lungo, and the N. face of the peak, 
the last scramble taking \ hr. The 
cave may also be used as the starting 
point for many ascents in the range 
E. of the Val Gordolasca, between it 
and the Valle della Miniera.J 

A mule path along first one, then 
the other bank of the stream leads in 
2-2J hrs. from the Madonna (the 
frontier being passed two-thirds of 
the way down) to St. Martin Yesubie 
(formerly called St. Martin Lan- 
tosque) (950 m., 3,117 ft.) 

This little town (the walls of which 
are gradually disappearing before 
modern needs) is a mass of richly 
coloured stone walls and roofs, capped 
by two church towers, and stands on 
a promontory between two brawling 
Alpine torrents descending from the 
Cols delle Finestre and delle Rovine. 
It has now become a favourite sum- 
mer resort for the Nicois and others, 
but it lies too low for a mountaineer, 
and is very hot in summer. At that 
season many French Alpine troops are 
encamped around, and the scene is a 
gay one. As to the Vesubie valley 
and St. Martin, M. F. Noetinger's 
article in the ' Annuaire du Club 
Alpin Francais ' for 1896, and 
chapter 23 of vol. xii. (1897) of 
M> Ardouin-Dumazet's 1 Voyage en 
France,' should be consulted. 

£The best view in the immediate 
neighbourhood is that commanded by 
the Tournairet (2,085 m -> 6,841 ft.), 
nearly due S. of the town. A car- 
riage road leads up in 2 m. to 
the picturesque village of Venanson, 
perched on a rock, whence a charming 
walk through woods and over Alpine 
pastures brings the traveller to the 
depression between the Tournairet on 
the W. and the Point e de Siruol 
(2,018m., 6,621 ft.) on the E. The 
latter point is easily gained in I hr., 
but the Tournairet is still nearer, and 



14 MARITIME ALPS. § i. ARGENTERA DISTRICT 



commands an even finer view (4 hrs. 
from St. Martin). The Cime da la 
Palh (2,131 m., 6,992 ft.), on the E. 
of St. Martin, is a fine belvedere, 
reached in 3 hrs. over pastures and 
through forests. 

Another pleasant excursion from 
St. Martin is to follow the char road 
and mule path up the Boreon glen 
(Rte. D) as far as the inn of Ciriegia 
(if hr. ), thence to ascend the Cime de 
Piagu (2,3,38 m., 7,671 ft.), a glorious 
view point, reached without any 
trouble in 2 J hrs. , and to descend from 
the ridge E. of it to the path from the 
Madonna, and so up to the Madonna, 
or down again to St. Martin. 

The shortest way from St. Martin 
to the Tinee valley is by Valdeblore, 
reached from St. Martin by a rough 
mule path over the Col de St. Martin 
(1,508 m., 4,948 ft.), whence the 
Balme de la Frema (2,242 m., 
7,356 ft.) can be easily ascended. 
The hamlet of St. Dalmas is if hr. 
from St. Martin. Thence there is a 
carriage road, whence several villages 
are seen in most extraordinary situa- 
tions, and by it St. Sauveur, in the 
Tinee valley (§ 2. Rte. A), is reached 
in 2-2^ hrs.' walking from St. 
Dalmas. A more interesting though 
longer way to St. Sauveur or Isola 
is by the Col de Saleses (Rte. D).J 

There is a good carriage road all the 
way from St. Martin to Nice (37 m. ), 
but at St. Jean de la Riviere (15 m. 
from St. Martin) a traveller may drive 
for 5 m. by a new road through the 
fine gorge of the Vesubie to the 
Vesubie station on the railway (§ 2. 
Rte. A) to Puget Theniers (from St. 
Martin 3J hrs. down by diligence, 
4J-4J- hrs. up) and by it reach Nice 
(16 m. distant) in if hr. more. 

The road from St. Martin passes 
through very picturesque scenery. In 
4 m. a road branches off to the left 
by which the Baths of Berthemont, 
near some mineral springs of local 
celebrity, and commanding a fine 
outlook over the Vesubie valley, are 
gained in z\ m. One mile further 
on the main road is Roquebilliere 



I (578 m., 1,896 ft.), at the junction 
I of the Val Gordolasca (see above and 
I Rte. A) with the Vesubie valley. 

[Twenty - five min. above the 
village by road is the hamlet of Bel- 
vedere (835 in., 2,740 ft.), on a hill 
covered with splendid chestnut trees. 
It is now much frequented in summer. J 
The road passes below La Bollenz 
(1 m. above), whence the Baisse de 
St. Veran (Rte. A) leads over to 
Saorge, on the Tenda road. Be- 
tween Roquebilliere and Lantosqae 
(4 m. distant) the change of climate 
becomes manifest in the more and 
\ more southern character of the vege- 
tation. Cistuses, Centaureas, and 
other Mediterranean species make 
their appearance, and the jujube tree, 
Zizyphus vulgaris, appears perfectly 
wild on the slope of the valley. 
Below Lantosque the Vesubie has cut 
a deep channel, with vertical walls of 
calcareous rock, in which a fortified 
post, to command the passage, has 
I been excavated. 

I [Near the road through this gorge 
to the railway the botanist may find 
Potentilla, saxifraga and Saxifraga 
lantoscana— plants known only in 
two or three spots in this neighbour- 
hood — along with Plagius agerati- 
folius, Genista cinerea, Juniperus 
j pkecnicea, and other rarities. 3 
i Hence at St. Jean de la Riviere, 
1 a group of houses, with a church, 
j forming an effective feature in the 
I landscape, the main road ascends 
above the left bank of the Vesubie. 

[From St. Jean a new carriage 
road leads up by many zigzags in 
\\ hr. to the curious little town of 
Utelle (800 m. , 2,625 ft. ), in the midst 
: of wild hills dominating deep and 
picturesque valleys. It has a very 
remarkable church, said to have 
been founded in the sixth century, 
with a curious Gothic porch, sup- 
ported by four pillars of grey granite, 
while in the apse, behind the high 
altar, is a fine carved wooden panel, 
of the thirteenth century, represent- 
ing the life and deeds of St. Veran, 
the reputed founder of the church. J 



ROUTE C. VALDIERI TO ST. MARTIN VESUBIE 15 



The precipitous wall on the right 
hand, near Duranus, is called the 
' Saut des Francais,' from a tale that 
in 1800 some enraged peasants of 
that village here threw some French 
soldiers over the precipice, 1,200 ft. 
high. 

The road winds upwards to the 
picturesquely scattered houses of Du- 
ranus (10 m. from Lantosque), and 
then descends again to Levens church 
and inn (4 m.), the village itself 
being on a hill-top to the right. Not 
very far below is the junction of the 
Vesubie with the Var. The road now 
quits the former river, above which it 
has run since St. Martin, takes a S.E. 
direction, crosses a low col, and 
passes by Tourette and St. Andre, 
before reaching (14 m. from Levens) 
Nice. 



Route D. 

BATHS OF VALDIERI TO ST. MARTIN 
VESUBIE BY THE COL DE LA 
CIRIEGIA. 

This is not an interesting pass, though 
leading through fine scenery, but is 
the shortest way to St. Martin. It is 
traversed by a mule path throughout, 
6 hrs. being ample for the distance. 

From the Baths of Valdieri the 
path mounts steeply by the right bank 
of the stream to the level floor of the 
Valletta, the glen which opens just S. 
of the Stabilimento. In less than I 
hr. from the start a spot is passed 
where Victor Emmanuel used fre- 
quently to pitch his tent when on a 
hunting expedition. Near this, on 
the bank of the torrent, Senecio bal- 
bisianus grows abundantly. The 
upper end of the Valletta glen is bare 
and wild. 

[Soon after crossing the stream to 
its left bank a mule track mounts 
to the S.W. to join the great mule 
path which, starting from the King's 



hunting lodge in the Valasco, is 
carried across the Col de Frema- 
morta (2,648 m., 8,688 ft.) to the 
Mollieres glen, and so to the path 
from the Col de Saleses, see below, 
towards the Tinee valley.] 

At the head of the Valletta glen 
rises the partly snow-covered Cima 
Mercantour (2,775 m -> 9> io 5 — n °t 
3,167 m., 10,391 ft., as stated on the 
old maps), with a depression on 
either side : that to the E. is the Co* 
de Mercantour (2,606 m., 8,550 ft.), 
a mere variation of the Col de la 
Ciriegia (from it the Mercantour peak 
can be climbed in 40 min. by a steep 
snow-covered rocky slope), while that 
to the W. is our pass. Crossing to 
the left bank of the torrent the track 
mounts by a steep rocky slope, and 
among huge fragments of rock, till 
it attains a wild hollow, enclosed on 
either side between steep rocks, and 
mounting for a considerable distance 
in a direction somewhat E. of S. 
When the writer (J. B.) passed (July 
17, i860), and also when the present 
Editor (W. A. B. C.) crossed the pass 
(August 19, 1879), the bottom of this 
hollow way was filled with snow for 
l its entire length, but, of course, this 
depends on the heat of the summer. 
On the rocks and steep slopes of 
debris to the W. are many rare plants, 
e.g. Viola numimilaricefolia, Saxi- 
j fraga retusa, &c. In about 3J hrs. 

from the Baths the Col (2,551 m., 
j 8,370 ft. ) is attained. From it the 
Monte Matto and part of the Argen- 
tera range are seen. 

The descent on the S. side, far 
steeper than the ascent on the N. side, 
lies down a ledge against the face of 
the rock, and soon attains a little 
tarn, on a shelf in the mountain- 
side. The effect of southern ex- 
posure is seen in the abundant 
vegetation which flourishes at this 
considerable height, while on the N. 
side a few peculiar species can alone 
manage to exist amidst the almost 
perpetual snow. Some herdsmen's 
huts are seen, and a steepish descent 
by a rude path leads down (bearing 



16 MARITIME ALPS. § i. ARGENT-ERA DISTRICT 



slightly to the left) through bushes 
and stones, then through a thick pine 
forest (it is very easy to lose the way 
here), to a beautiful upland glade, 
where bright green pastures, rich in 
flowers of every hue, are here and 
there broken by rock and pine forest. 
Here, above the junction of the 
Boreon torrent, flowing from the Col 
delle Rovine, and of the Saleses 
stream, coming from the pass of that 
name, is a little inn (1,470 m. , 
4,823 ft., if hr. from the Col) which 
is a pleasant halting place, and one 
of the favourite excursions from St. 
Martin Vesubie. From it the Cime 
de Piagu (2,338 m., 7,671 ft.) may 
be ascended in 2J hrs. Near the inn 
the Boreon forms a fine waterfall, 
called the Cascade de la Ciriegia. 

[From the inn it is an agreeable 
expedition to cross the Col de Saleses 
(2,020 m., 6,628 ft.) to the Tinee 
valley, an easy walk of 4 hrs. by 
a mule path. The track passes the 
abandoned mines of Saleses, and 
then traverses splendid pine forests to 
the charmingly situated chalets at 
the foot of the last ascent. The pass 
is gained in 1^- hr. from the inm 
The descent on the other side is a 
lovely walk through the Mollieres 
glen. Some way below the pass the 
mule path from the Col de Frema- 
morta fails in, and later the way from 
the Col delle Portette, while near the 
hamlet of Mollieres (where the glen 
bends from W. to S.W.) another 
mule path mounts to the Col della 
Mercerci (2,336 m., 7,664 ft.), which 
leads to the track over the Bassa di 
Druos, described in the next Rte. 
The position of Mollieres {less than 
I hr. from the pass) is one of the 
most delightful in the Maritime 
Alps. The inhabitants, though 
politically Italian, are closely con- 
nected with the villages in the French I 
valley of the Tinee, and are chiefly 
woodcutters. Below the hamlet a j 
fine gorge is traversed, and in I J hr. 
from the village the junction (also the 
political frontier) of the stream with 
the Tinee is reached. Hence it is 1 



I I J- hr.'s walk (4 m.) by the carriage 
road down to St. Sauveur, or 2 hrs.' 
walk (5 m.) up to Isola, both de- 
scribed in § 2. Rte. A.] 

In descending from the Ciriegia 
inn the mule track becomes a char 

, road on crossing the frontier, and 
3 m. further (i-| hr. from the inn) is 

i St. Martin Vesubie. 



Route E. 

BATHS OF VALDIERI TO THE TINEE 
VALLEY BY THE BASSA DI DRUOS. 

In the last Rte. we described the 
chief passes leading through the more 
southerly of the three glens which 
meet near the Baths of Valdieri. In 
this Rte. we must consider those 
which branch oft from the most 
westerly glen, that of Valasco, the 
main pass being the Bassa di Druos, 
leading to Isola, in the Tinee valley. 

There is a char road up the left 
bank of the torrent, which mounts 
first to a lovely green basin, and then 
to a smaller one, in which stands the 
King's hunting lodge, 1,768 m., 
5,801 ft. (1 hr. ) On the way a fine 
waterfall is seen, while the mule path 
leading towards the Col della Valletta, 
and Monte Matto, is left on the 
N. A short distance beyond the 
mule path splits into several branches. 
One leads S. over the Col de Frema- 
morta (see last Rte.), a second 
S. W. over the Col delle Portette (both 
passes giving access to the Mollieres 
glen), while a third mounts N.W. 
towards our pass. A number of zig- 
zags through scattered pines bring 
the traveller to the lakes of Valscura, 
that being the name of this arm of the 
Valasco, and then the mule path 
mounts past them to the Col, 2,630 
m., 8,629 ft. (2J hrs. from the hunting 
lodge). The pass is also called the 
Col de Valasco, or di Valscura, and 
Col des Laus (Lacs), and is just S. of 
the Tete de Malinvern (2,939 m -> 



ROUTE E. BATHS OF VALDIERI TO THE TINEE VALLEY 17 



9,643 ft.), which is, doubtless, acces- 
sible hence. (N.E. of it the rough 
Col de Malinvern leads over to 
Vinadio, in the Stura valley. ) There 
is a great cairn on the Bassa. 

On the other side the mule path 
makes a great round to the S. to the 
Col della Mercera, leading into the 
Mollieres glen (f hr. ), then bends 
N.W. and descends the Ciastiglione 
glen to Isola. Soon the mule path 
to Vinadio by the Col della Lom- 
barda strikes away to the N.W., and 
lower down (where the glen bends 
S.W. ) another branches off to the 
Col di Sanf Anna, also leading to 
Vinadio, while still further down the 
glen the footpath to the Baths of 
Vinadio by the Col di Gtiercia is left 
(like the others) on the right. The 
lower part of the Ciastiglione or 
Chastillon glen is picturesque, the 
frontier being crossed at the entrance 
to the gorge which forms its lower 
reach. Isola (described in § 2. Rte. A) 
is gained in hrs. from the pass, 
many chalets having been passed on 
the way. 



Route F. 

VALDIERI, OR THE BATHS OF 
VALDIERI, TO THE STURA VALLEY. 

The most convenient way by which 
to go from the Gesso valley to that of 
the Stura is, of course, to drive down 
to Borgo San Dalmazzo, near the 
junction of the Gesso and Stura 
valleys. But a traveller may some- 
times find it more in accordance with 
his plans to cross one or other of the 
easy passes which connect these two 
valleys. 

The easiest and shortest is the 
Col della Madonna del Colletto 
(1,291 m., 4,236 ft.), over which a 
mule path leads in 3 hrs. from the 
town of Valdieri to Demonte. There 
is a Sanctuary on the pass, whence 
I. 



its name. Thence the Mont Clapier 
range is well seen. This pass is much 
frequented by the country folk. A 
steep zigzag road leads from the 
bridge over the Stura up to the flourish- 
ing little tow T n of Demonte. 

If the start be made from the Baths 
of Valdieri, the traveller may choose 
between several passes. The most 
direct is the Col della Valletta 
(2,488 m., 8,163 ft* )? reached from 
the Valasco by the mule path used 
for the ascent of the Monte Matto 
(Rte. B), which is joined before the 
pass by another mounting from Sant ? 
Anna di Valdieri by the Meris glen. 
The mule track is left above the Lago 
Soprano della Sella, the pass being 
rather to the N.W. On the other 
side the Lago Soprano della Valletta 
is passed, and the Valletta glen de- 
scended to A isone, in the Stura valley, 
2§ m. below Vinadio (7 hrs. from the 
Baths). Vinadio itself may be gained 
direct in 8-9 hrs. from the Baths 
either by the Passo della Paur, 
through the Valrossa, or by the Col 
de Malinvern, not far from the Bassa 
di Druos (Rte. E) : the routes (fit 
only for pedestrians) over both passes 
meet in the Rio Freddo glen, which 
is followed to Vinadio (9 hrs. at least 
from the Baths by either route). 



SECTION 2. 

THE SEAWARD VALLEYS. 

As noted in the Introduction to 
this Chapter this section includes 
the description of the three valleys 
of the Tinee, Var, and Verdon, 
all, save one side of the first- 
named, now included in French ter- 
ritory. The three rivers which run 
through them all flow roughly in a 
southward direction, but, as has been 
stated above, the Var is diverted to 
the E., so as to join the Tinee, while 
the Verdon is bent to the W. till it 
unites with the Durance. All three 



IS MARITIME ALPS, § 2. THE SEAWARD VALLEYS 



valleys are now traversed by excellent 
carriage roads, which in the case of 
the Var and Verdon glens reach or 
cross the divide to Barcelonnette. 
Easy passes lead in the same direction 
from the head of the Tinee valley, 
which in many respects is the most 
interesting region for the mountaineer, 
despite the military and political ob- 
stacles which must be overcome. Yet 
these three valleys, with the mountain 
ranges which close them in, still 
belong to one of the least known 
districts in the Alps, save, perhaps, to 
botanists, who may there reap a rich 
harvest. Much useful information 
relating to them is contained in a 
series of articles published in the 
13th, 14th, 15th, 1 6th, and 17th 
' Bulletins ' of the Maritime Alps 
Section of the French Alpine Club ; 
see also chapters 24-26 of vol. xii. 
of M. Ardouin-Dumazet's 4 Voyage 
en France,' already mentioned. Now 
that an observatory has been con- 
structed on the Mont Mounter that 
fine point of view will become better 
known, especially as it is easily ac- 
cessible even on mule-back. 



Route A. 

NICE TO BARCELONNETTE BY THE 
VALLEY OF THE TINEE. 

Railway to La Tine'e (18 m.) ; carriage 
road to St. Etienne (37 m.) ; thence 
mule or foot paths. 

Unlike the Var and the Verdon, 
whose general course is serpentine, 
the Tinee flows for many miles in a 
nearly straight channel a little E. of 
S. The upper portion of the valley 
runs parallel to the great mass of 
metamorphic rock (gneiss, mica- 
schist, &c. ) which extends from the 
Mont Enchastraye nearly to the Col 
de Tenda. In the southern part of 
its course, between St. Sauveur and 
its junction with the Var, the Tinee 



traverses a succession of conglomerates, 
more or less altered limestones, and 
schistose argillaceous rocks, referred 
by geologists to the Lias, Jura lime- 
stones and the inferior members of 
the Cretaceous series. The valley is 
very deeply cut into these strata, so 
that the villages which occur at ex- 
tremely long intervals are, with the 
exception of St. Sauveur, Isola, and 
St. Etienne (all of which stand at the 
union of a lateral torrent with the 
Tinee), perched on the steep mountain 
slope. 

Since the opening some years ago 
of the narrow-gauge 4 Chemin de Fer 
du Sud ' from Nice to Puget 
Theniers (later to be extended to- 
wards St. Andre) it is in every way 
better for a traveller to make use of 
it, so as to escape the first hot rise 
from the sea level. It is remarkable 
for its 17 viaducts and 9 tunnels. 

On leaving Nice the line runs W. 
across some low ridges till, at the 
station of St. Isidore (4 m.), it gains 
the valley of the Var, which it hence- 
forth follows to Puget Theniers. At 
Colomars (4 m. ) the line to Grasse 
branches off to the left, and 5 m. 
further is St. Martin du Var, at the 
junction of the Esteron with the Var. 
In 2J- m. the station of Vesubie is 
reached at the union of that stream 
with the Var (for the route hence to 
St. Martin Vesubie see § 1. Rte. C. 
and another 2| m. (18 m. from 
Nice) brings the traveller to the Tinee 
station, about half-way between Nice 
and Puget Theniers, and not far from 
the junction of the Tinee with the 
Var. Here travellers leave the train 
(rather than at La Mescla, 2 m. 
on, at the actual junction of the two 
rivers) for the high road up the Tinee 
valley (37 m.) to St. Etienne. Dili- 
gences traverse the whole distance in 
about 10 hrs. , a private carriage taking 
8 hrs. , as the rise is very considerable. 

From La Mescla the road mounts 
through a succession of fine gorges, a 
branch road (2 m. from La Mescla) 
leading up by many zigzags to the 
prettily situated village of Clans, above 



ROUTE A. THE VALLEY OF THE TINEE 



19 



a side valley, through which a torrent 
descends from the Tournairet, on the 
S. of St. Martin Vesubie. Soon after, 
another side road mounts to Marie, 
with a picturesque church spire, and 
then the carriage road from Valde- 
blore (§ 1. Rte. C) falls in. The 
rocks for 3 m. below St. Sauveur are 
of a deep violet hue, turning sometimes 
to purple and carmine ; the schist slabs 
are very rotten, and many falls on to 
the road have taken place, with some 
fatal accidents, so that after heavy 
rains this portion of the route is not 
very safe. On the mountain spur 
between the Bramafam glen, leading 
up to Valdeblore, and the Tinee 
stands Rimplas, the path from which 
joins the high road a little before the 
latter reaches 

St. Sauveur (18 m. from La 
Mescla), the first village actually in 
the valley of the Tinee which is on 
the high road, and so a place of some 
commercial importance. 

[Here the Roubion torrent joins 
the Tinee, and through the fine 
gorges of that glen it is easy to gain 
on foot or on mule-back in 6-7 hrs. 
the splendid belvedere of the Mont 
Momiier (2,818 m., 9,246 ft.) : it is 
also accessible from Isola on the 
N.E., and from Peone on the S.W. , 
and is more fully described in the 
next Rte., as the new mule path 
from Beuil on the S. is now the 
favourite mode of approach.] 

The road then enters a deep gorge, 
and after passing (4 m. ) the mouth 
of the Mollieres glen (for the routes 
through it to St. Martin Vesubie, and 
the Baths of Valdieri, see § 1. Rte. D), 
forms, with the Tinee, the frontier 
between France and Italy. About 
9 m. from St. Sauveur is 

Isola (882 m., 2,894 ft.), most 
picturesquely situated at the foot of a 
high rock wall, in the midst of fine 
chestnut trees, and with pretty water- 
falls on every side, that of the Louch, 
to the S. , being the most remarkable. 
At the end of the Tinee valley is seen 
the Bonnet Carre, described below. 
Isola is already frequented by tourists, 



' though for mountaineers St. Etienne 
is better situated. 

[N.E. of Isola the Ciastiglione 
or Chastilion glen joins the Tinee. 
The passes through it to the Baths 
of Valdieri, and the Mollieres glen, 
! have been noticed in § 1. Rte. E. 
I Over the range on its N. or right 
side several passes lead towards the 
Stura valley. The most frequented 
i of these is the Col di Guercia 
j (2,451 m., 8,042 ft.), by which 
Vinadio is gained by a footpath in 
8-9 hrs. past the Baths of Vinadio. 
j Higher up the valley is the Col di 
\ Sail? Anna (2,318 m., 7,605 ft.), 
; over which a frequented mule track 
i gives access to the Sanctua7-y of 
San? Anna, rebuilt after a great 
1 fire in 1888 (4 hrs. from Isola), 
which is about 2 hrs. above Vinadio. 
Many paths branch from the Sanc- 
: tuary in every direction, one of which, 
: a mule path, gives access in 3 hrs. 
! by the Col de Bravaria to the Baths of 
' Vinadio. Near the head of the Cias- 
tiglione glen a mule path leads over 
the Col delta Lombarda (2,395 m., 
7,858 ft.) to the Sanctuary, but this 
route is most convenient for a traveller 
j coming from the Baths of Valdieri 
! over the Bassa di Druos. 

S.W. of Isola is the Mont Monnier, 
, already mentioned. It is best reached 
! from Isola either by the Col de la 
Vallette and the hamlet of Vtgnols 
■ (6 hrs.), or by mounting in 3 hrs. 
j through the fine Roja gorge — which 
I joins the Tinee half-way between Isola 
and St. Etienne, and is on the way to 
I Guillaumes by the Col de Crous (see 
j next Rte.) — to the hamlet of Roja 
j (1,475 m., 4,839 ft.), from which it 
j is an easy 3! hrs. to the top by the 
1 Sellavieille glen and the easy W, 
slope. Rough direct descents, not 
recommended, may be made from 
the summit to Isola due N. by the 
Col de Gipes and the Burenta glen, 
or N.E. by the Varelios and Inferne 
glens.] 

The Tinee valley between Isola 
and St. Etienne presents a series of 
steep and bare mountain slopes, torn 
C 2 



MARITIME ALPS. § 2. THE SEAWARD VALLEYS 



by the rain-swollen torrents on either 
side, and is diversified by only a few- 
green and fresh oases. The Roja 
glen is the only one of any size. 
Soon after passing its mouth the 
mule track from Vinadio over the 
Passo di Collalunga, 2,600 m. , 
8,531 ft. (8 hrs.), joins the high road. 
Nearly 8 m. from Isola is 

St. Etienne de Tinee (1,141 m. , 
3,744 ft.), a small and very ancient 
town, with a large modern parish 
church, a splendid house, formerly 
belonging to the Knights of the 
Temple, and an old Trinitarian con- 
vent, in a picturesque position, and 
containing a chapel with good carv- 
ings in wood, and some frescoes, 
now much injured by damp. It is 
the best quarters for a mountaineer 
in the Tinee valley. While the 
range to the N.W. is altogether 
composed of gneiss, the mountains 
on the opposite side of the Tinee 
show a succession of newer strata 
from the Lias to the nummulitic 
limestone. 

[To the N.E. are several of the 
higher summits of the Maritime Alps. 
The Mont Tinibras (also called 
Tenibres), 3,032 m., 9,948 ft., was 
ascended from here in 1865 by Count 
Paul de St. Robert, but had been 
previously ascended in 1835 by the 
Sardinian engineers. It is best 
climbed (4J hrs.) by way of the 
Tinibras lakes — whence the Passo 
della Ciazisa, properly the Pas de la 
Lausaor du Piz (2,900 m., 9,515 ft.), 
leads over to the Stura valley — and 
the S.W. rock ridge. The view is 
very fine, taking in Monte Rosa and a 
small bit of the sea. The return to St. 
Etienne may be made by the Lac Fero 
and the (now dried up) Lac Petrus, 
but it is a rough way. A better route 
is to go down by a long couloir of 
debris to the considerable Rabiwns 
lake, and to follow that glen to the 
Tinee valley. A party approaching 
the peak from the Italian side should 
go from Vinadio to the Col du 
Vallonet (2,975 m -j 9>76i ft.), on 
its N.W. From the large Rabuons 



lake, 2J-3 hrs. from St. Etienne — 
which is worth a visit in itself, and 
for the sake of the splendid waterfall 
formed by the torrent flowing from 
it — the ascent may be made in about 
2 hrs. of the Grand Chignon (or 
Simon) de Rabuons, or Becco Alto 
delP Lschiator (3,000 m. , 9,843 ft.), 
a fine rock tower, or of the Cima 
della Rocca Rossa (3,000 m., 9,843 
ft.), between it and the Tinibras. 
Both summits are more difficult of 
access on the Italian side, while it is 
easy to go from the former to the 
Tinibras by way of the smaller and 
upper Rabuons lakes and the N.E. 
ridge of the Tinibras. S. of the 
Becco is the rough Passo delP Lschia- 
tor, leading to the Baths of Vinadio, 
while some way below St. Etienne 
the mule path over the Passo di Col- 
lalunga leads in the same direction. 
From the former pass the Cima di 
Corborant, or Ctme de Cialancias 
(3,011 m. , 9,879 ft.), is accessible in 
J hr. by its N. rocky face.] 

In less than 1 hr. above St. 
Etienne the Tinee valley divides into 
two branches, by either of which the 
traveller may pass into Provence. 
The good mule path runs through 
woods high above a very picturesque 
narrow gorge to the stone Pont Haut, 
thrown across it at the bifurcation. 

(a) That to the W 7 . leads in I hr. 
by a mule path to the hamlet of 
St. D almas sur Tinee (formerly < Le 
Sauvage ' or 'Selvage'), 1,494 m -5 
4,902 ft., charmingly placed amidst 
trees, with the stream roaring beneath 
in a narrow gorge. (It may also be 
reached in if hr. from St. Etienne 
over the low Col d'Anelle.) This 
village is built at the junction of 
the Jailor gnes and Sestrieres glens. 
Through the former (very pretty and 
famed for its flora) the Col de Jal- 
lorgues (2,529 m., 8,298 ft.) leads 
over, in 5 hrs., to Esteng, at the very 
head of the Var valley, the more 
direct way from St. Etienne to the 
lower part of that valley (see next 
Rte. ) being by the Col de Pal 
(2,218 m., 7,277 ft.), 6 hrs. from St. 



ROUTE A. THE VALLEY OF THE TINEE 



21 



Etienne to Guillaumes, less to En- 
traunes. At the head of the wild 
Sestrieres glen is the Col de la 
Monti ere, or de Planton (2,446 m., 
8,025 ft.), 3 hrs. from St. Dalmas, a 
very easy grass pass (foot path only), 
by which the Bachelard or Fours 
valley is attained at Bayasse, and 
therein the routes from the Cols de la 
Cayolle (Rte. B) and d'Allos (Rte. C), 
both bringing the traveller to Bar- 
celonnette. 

(b) The main valley of the Tinee, 
however, continues from the Pont 
Haut by the N. branch. In ^ hr. by 
the mule path the bridge over the 
Vens torrent is reached. 

[Hence the fine Vens waterfall and 
lakes may be visited in if hr. , and 
the Col- du Fer (2,550 m., 8,366 ft.) 
reached in f hr. more : it is the direct 
way from the Tinee valley to Ber- 
zesio, in the Stura valley.] 

Another \ hr. brings the traveller 
to Le Pra, a small hamlet at which 
the main valley forks once more. 

The N. branch leads in f hr. to the 
Salsa Morena huts (a favourite resort 
of botanists), whence a mule track 
over the Col de Pouri'iac, 2,506 m., 
8,222 ft. (s| hrs. from St. Etienne) 
leads to Argent era, the highest vil- 
lage in the Stura valley : from this 
pass the Mont Enchastraye (2,955 m., 
9,695 ft.) is accessible in \\ hr., as 
well as from the true Col du Lau- 
zanier, or de V Enchastraye (2,656 m. , 
8,714 ft.), at its N. foot, while the 
Roc her des Trots Eve que s (2,862 m., 
9,390 ft.), the topographical import- 
ance of which has been pointed out 
in the Introduction to this Chapter, 
may be easily reached in 40 min. 
from the Pas de la Cavale by skirting 
a ravine under the first peak. S.W. 
of the last-named summit is the Pas 
de la Cavale, or Pas de la Mule 
(2,671 m. , 8,763 ft.), a rough pass 
by which Larche is gained in 6-7 
hrs. from St. Etienne. S.W. again 
of this pass is the striking and | 
characteristic point known as the j 
Bonnet Carre (2,868 m., 9,410 ft.), I 
and popularly called the Chapeau de \ 



V Eve que, from its form ; it is best 
reached from the Pas de la Cavale by 
easy rocks, or in I hr. from the Col 
des Fourches (2,242 m., 7,356 ft.), 
which crosses in about 1 hr. the spur 
dividing the Salsa Morena glen from 
that of Bousiejas. 

The hamlet of Bousiejas (c. 1,900 
m., 6,234 ft.), in the W. branch, and 
a short hour by mule path above Le 
Pra, is notorious for its charnel-house, 
100 m. (328 ft. ) above the village, and 
used till 1893 as the common burial 
place of all the inhabitants of the 
hamlet. N.W. of the hamlet, and 
\\ hr. from it, is the Col des Granges 
Communes, de Pelouse, or de Ver- 
milion (2,512 m., 8,242 ft.) This 
pass is traversed by a mule path in 
bad repair, and is the easiest and most 
direct way from St. Etienne to the 
Ubaye valley, reached (7-8 hrs. from 
St. Etienne) at Jausiers, 6 m. by 
high road from Ba?xelonnette (§ 3, 
Rte. A). 



Route B. 

NICE TO BARCELONNETTE BY THE 
VALLEY OF THE VAR. 

Railway to Puget Th&iiers (37 m.) ; 
carriage road and good mule trace 
thence (57 m.) 

From the junction of the Var ana 
Tinee at La Mescla (see last Rte.) 
the first-named stream preserves a 
nearly straight direction from W. to 
E. for about 25 miles, flowing parallel 
to the general strike of the strata 
through a narrow defile which it has 
excavated in the Cretaceous and num- 
mulitic rocks. The railway is now 
open to Puget Theniers, but is soon 
to be extended to Annot, on the 
Vaire, and later to St. Andre de 
Meouilles. 

The line from Nice to La Mescla 
(20 m. ) has been described in the 
last Route. The valley gradually be- 



MARITIME ALPS. § 2. THE SEAWARD VALLEYS 



comes wider before the station of 
AJalaussene (24 m.) is reached. 

£Hence a good path leads in 3 hrs. j 
to the Col de Vial, whence I hr. more 
by rocks is required to gain the sum- 
mit of the Mont Vial (1,551 m. , 
5,089 ft.), on the S.E. This point is 
nearly isolated in the centre of the : 
Department of the Maritime Alps, 
arid commands a very fine view of the 
peaks and valleys of that chain. The 
descent may be made in 2 hrs. down 
the S.E. slope past Revest and 
Gilette to the Pent Charles Albert 
station, 14 m. from Nice. J 

Six miles beyond Malaussene is the 
station of Touet de Benil (30 m.), a 
village picturesquely perched on the 
side of a rocky wall, 

[This is the best starting point 1 
for the ascent of the panoramic Mont 
Monnier (2,818 m., 9,246 ft.) A 
wonderful new carriage road, in many 
places cut out in the living rock, 
mounts through the magnificent red 
defiles of Cians in 16 m. — 5 hrs. by j 
carriage — from Touet de Beuil to the 
village of Beuil (1,454 m., 4,771 ft.), 
at the S. foot of the Monnier. It is 
overlooked by the ruined castle of the 
powerful Grimalci family, through 
whom the county of Nice came to the 
House of Savoy, of which the Counts 
of Beuil were alternately allies and 
foes. Their power was so consider- 
able that it was said of one of them : 

' Io son conte di Boglio, 
Che faccio quel che voglio,' 

From Beuil the newly constructed 
mule path leads the traveller with- 
out any .difficulty in 3 hrs. to the 
summit of the Monnier (sometimes 
erroneously called Monnier, but the 
name really comes from ' Mont Noir,' 
owing to the black soil of which it is 
composed), The prospect extends 
from the Viso and the great peaks of 1 
Dauphine to the sea. In 1893 M< 
Bischoftsheim, the founder of the 
Observatory at Nice, built another 
Observatory on the Monnier, the spot 
chosen being on the minor summit 
(2,760 m., 9,055 ft,), to the S.W, of | 



and about J hr. from the sharp 
highest point. Travellers should be 
informed that the small house near 
the Observatory is reserved for the 
staff of the Observatory, unless special 
permission is obtained from the 
Director. Easy mule paths lead from 
Beuil in 2\ hrs. to St. Sauveur — for 
the routes up the Monnier thence and 
from Isola see last Route — and in 
2 hrs. to Peone (whence the ascent 
is easy, though longer than from 
Beuil), which is l\ hr. by a carriage 
road above Guillaumes. J 

The railway passes by the station 
of Cians, I mile from Touet, at the 
entrance of the gorges of that name, 
and continues to run through the 
valley of the Var, which becomes 
quite broad before arriving at (37 m. 
from Nice) 

Puget Theniers (559 m., 1,834 
ft.), a small walled town, which 
in 1388 came into the posses- 
sion of the House of Savoy. It is 
the present terminus of the railway; 
Hence there is a direct route (only 
partly a carriage road) over the Col 
de la Roua to Guillaumes, but most 
travellers will prefer to follow the 
main road from Puget Theniers to- 
wards Digne by the strongly fortified 
town of Entrevaicx (4 m.), passing 
half-way into Provence or the 
Department of the Basses Alpes, 
to the bridge of Gueyda?i over the 
Var (4 rn. ; for the road onwards to 
Annot and St. Andre de Meouilles 
see next Rte. ), near its junction with 
the Coulomp. There is a service of 
diligences thrice a day between Puget 
Theniers and Guillaumes in 4J hrs. 

At this bridge the Var makes a 
rapid bend, now flowing from theN.E. 
A narrow defile is traversed by the fine 
new road, and then a series of small 
basins, each connected with the other 
by a deep gorge. But it is beyond 
Dahiis that the most striking gorge 
occurs, enclosed between friable, ver- 
tical rocks of a deep carmine hue, 
through which the new road threads its 
way by means of many tunnels and 
cuttings, In 12 m. from the Pont de 



ROUTE B. THE VALLEY OF THE VAR 



23 



Gueydan the traveller attains Guil- 
laumes, dominated by a ruined castle. 
The valley here broadens for a little 
while. 

[To the N. E. a char road leads up 
in 4 m. to Peone^ a mining hamlet 
clinging to a great rock, and in a 
desolate position. Hence Beuil may 
be gained by a mule track in 2\ hrs. , 
or the Mont Mannier in 5 hrs., 
while due N. the Col de Crous 
(2,206 m., 7,238 ft.) leads in 6 hrs. 
from Peone by the Rojaglen either to 
St. Etienne, or to Isola, in the Tinee 
valley. To the N. of Guillaumes the 
Col de Pal (2,218 m., 7,277 ft.) leads 
direct to St. Etienne.] 

Above Guillaumes the Var valley 
bends slightly to the N.W., and a 
grand view of the three gaunt and 
riven Aiguilles de Pelens (2,685 m -> 
8,809 ft.) (as yet untrodden by the 
foot of man) is gained before attain- 
ing (7 m.) the village of St. Martin 
d^Entraunes (1,055 m *> 3>4-6i ft.), 
prettily situated in park-like scenery, 
and shaded by fine chestnuts. On the 
E. the Colde Pal (2,218 m., 7,277 ft.) 
leads over to St. Etienne (6 hrs.), 
and on the W. a carriage road runs in 
5 hrs. over the Col des Champs 
(2,191 m., 7,189 ft) to Colmars, in 
the Verdon valley (see next Rte. ) 
Four miles higher up the valley is En- 
tratines (1,280 m., 4,200 ft.), amid 
thoroughly Alpine scenery. 

A fresh series of gorges, in which 
larches gradually make their appear- 
ance, lead up to Esteng, 1,780 m., 
5,840 ft. (4 m.), the highest hamlet 
in the Var valley, and in a picturesque 
position, I m. below the Sources of 
the Var, which may be visited on the 
way over the Col de la Cayolle. The 
Col de Jallorgues (5 hrs.) hence to 
St. Dalmas was noticed in the last 
Rte. The Pas de Lausson (2,609 m., 
8,560 ft.), on the W. (2 hrs. up from 
the Laus ' maison forestiere '), gives 
access in 2 hrs. to the Lac d'Allos 
(see next Rte.), the Mont Pelat 
(3,053 m. , 10,017 ft-) being acces- 
sible in 2 hrs. from the Pas : the 
return from the peak to Esteng may 



be made (in 2fhrs.) by the easier 
Col de la Petite Cayolle , 2,643 m -> 
8,672 ft. (2 hrs. from the Laus 

1 maison forestiere '). The last-named 
pass is J hr. above the lakes in the 
broad opening of the Col de la 
Cayolle (2,352 m., 7,717 ft.), which 
is a short hour from Esteng. Here 
the Viso comes into sight. This pass 
is destined since the scheme for 
the new carriage road across it to be 
the main means of communication 
between Nice and Barcelonnette, as 

! it was already much frequented by 
foot passengers, and is very direct. 
E. of it the wide glen of Sangui- 
niere leads over by the pass of that 
name to the Fours valley, or by com- 
bining it with the Col de la Braisse 
St. Dalmas sur Tinee may be gained. 
The good mule track descends the 

I BacTielard glen to Bayasse, 15 m. 
from Entraunes (hence the Vente- 
brun, 2,873 m -> 9>4 2 6 ft., on the N., 
is accessible in 3-4 hrs. by the Julien 
glen and the N. face), at the junction 
of the track from St. Etienne and St. 
Dalmas by the Col de la Moutiere 
{see last Rte.) The path then bends 
W. with the valley, and passes along 

j its right side through the many ham- 
lets which make up the commune of 
Fours. 

[From that of Les Mam-els Alios 
I may be gained in 5 hrs. by the Col 
du Talon (2,387 m., 7,832 ft.), or 
Barcelonnette in 4 hrs. by the Col de 
I Fours (2,319 m., 7,609 ft.), the latter 
! traversed by a mule path. E. of the 
! former pass is the rarely visited sum- 
mit of Le Cimet (3,022 m., 9,915 ft. ), 
which may be ascended in 3-4 hrs. 
from the ■* maison forestiere ' of Talon, 
which is in the Bouchiers glen, and 

2 hrs. from Alios. J 

The path crosses to the left bank 
opposite La Malum , where it be- 
comes a carriage road, recrosses 
at Uvernet (9 m. from Bayasse), and 
1 m. further joins the road from Alios 
by the Col d'Allos (see next Rte.), 
reaching Barcelonnette (§ 3. Rte. A) 
in 1 m. more (94 m. from Nice). 



MARITIME ALPS. 2. THE SEAWARD VALLEYS 



Route C. 

NICE TO BARCELONNETTE BY THE 
VALLEY OF THE VERDON. 

Railway to Puget Th^niers (37 m.) ; 
thence carriage road. 

The upper valley of the Verdon 
forms the W. limit of the Maritime 
Alps as described in this work. But 
to mountaineers, as to geologists, and 
to botanists, who may reap a rich 
harvest in this little-known district, 
it is only the head of this valley that 
presents any great interest, particu- 
larly the environs of Alios, 6 m. by 
high road above the small fortified 
town of Colmars ( 1 , 259 m. , 4,131 ft. ), 
and 22 m. from Barcelonnette. 

There are at least three ways 
of going from Nice to Colmars, the 
first being the most roundabout, while 
the second is to be preferred to the 
third (the most direct) only by those 
who have not yet seen the upper valley 
of the Var. 

(a) By Puget Thenieis and St. 
Andre de Meouilles. — The route to- 
wards Digne, described in the last 
Rte. , is followed for 4 m. from the 
Pont de Gueydan to Les Caffa?'els (a 
little above the junction of the Vaire 
with the Coulomp), and for 17 m. 
further towards Digne as far as St. 
Andre de Meottilles, on the Verdon 
itself (St. Andre is 27 m. by a narrow- 
gauge railway from Digne, the capital 
of the Department of the Basses 
Alpes). The course of the Verdon is 
thence followed in a northerly direc- 
tion by a good carriage road past 
Thorame Haute to Colmars, 20 m. 
from St. Andre, or 86 m. from Nice. 

(b) By Annot a?id La Co lie St. 
Michel. — This route branches off from 
a at Les Caffarels (see above). It is 
1 m. further to Annot , whence the 
road mounts along the Vaire, and 
then to (8 m.) the hamlet of La Colle 
St. Michel (1,506 m. „ 4,941 ft.), 
perched on the crest of the ridge be- 
tween the Vaire and Verdon valleys. 



The descent on the other side leads 
to the road between St. Andre de 
Meouilles and Thorame Haute, at a 
point 5 m. below the latter place. 
By this route Colmars is 73 m. from 
Nice. 

(c) By Ent ratines and the Col des 

Champs This way was noticed in 

the last Rte. 

Alios (1,425 m., 4,675 ft.) is a 
large village (formerly a Gaulish hill 
fort) at the end of a long tongue of 
land running down to the Verdon. 
Near it there is the curious twelfth- 
century church of N.D. de Valvert, 
well worth a visit. 

[Alios is admirably situated as a 
centre whence to make many pleasant 
excursions and ascents, but it is as 
yet hardly known to tourists of any 
nationality. Lately the Forest admi- 
nistration has built 4 maisons fores- 
tieres' (all between 1,900 m., 
6,234 ft., or 2,000 m., 6,562 ft.), 
connected with each other by mule 
paths, in various spots near Alios, 
such as Lausy -J hr. from the Lac 
d'Allos, Talon in the Bouchiers glen 
(2 hrs. from Alios), Preinier (ij hr. 
from Alios), and Valdemar (2§ hrs. 
from Alios) ; a mule path leads up to 
each, and it is easy to obtain permis- 
sion to sleep in these houses, which 
are very convenient for travellers 
wishing to make excursions or ascents 
in the neighbourhood of Alios. The 
highest summit in the range on the 
W. (which separates it from the 
Bleone glen, by which Digne is easily 
reached over the mountains from the 
Ubaye valley) is the Trois Eveches 
(2,927 m., 9,603 ft.), W. of the 
watershed, but accessible in 5 hrs. 
from Laverq, on the N., in the Him 
de la Blanche glen, so that it can 
be taken on the way from Barcelon- 
nette to Digne by Mariaud, but the 
direct descent to the head of the 
Bleone glen is difficult. The Mourre 
Gros (2,652 m., 8,701 ft.), more to 
the S., is an agreeable excursion 
(5 hrs.) by way of the 4 maison fores - 
tiere ' of Valdemar. But most 
travellers, who find their way to Alios 



ROUTE C. THE VALLEY OF THE VERDON 25 



do so, whether as botanists or as 
admirers of the beauties of nature, in 
order to visit the Lac d'Allos, on the 
E., and reached in 2 hrs. by a fair 
mule path up a rather dreary glen. 
This lake is situated at a height of 
2,173 m. (7,130 ft.), in a stony de- 
pression, surrounded on all sides by 
low ridges of crumbling rock. There 
are two boats on the lake, and a 
< maison forestiere ' not far from it. S. 
of it rises the Grandes Tours ( 2, 745 m. , 
9,006 ft., accessible hence in 2 hrs. 
with a little trouble), and the Tete de 
Valplane> 2,626 m., 8,616 ft. (2 hrs. 
from the lake, or 4 hrs. direct from 
Alios by the Valplane glen), while 
W. of the latter point is Roche Cline 
(2,418 m., 7,933 ft., 5 hrs. from 
Alios, and very accessible direct from 
the lake). 2 m. to the N., but 
separated from the lake by a deep 
hollow, is the Mont Pelat (3,053 m., 
10,017 ft.), the highest summit in the 
Maritime Alps W. of the Tinee 
valley. The lake is remarkable for 
its size (155 acres), which is greater 
than that of any other lake in the 
Maritime Alps, and, it is said, is ex- 
celled by but few Alpine lakes in the 
entire chain of the Alps, for its depth 
(50 m. , 164 ft, ), and for the fact that it 
has no visible outlet, the stream flow- 
ing for some distance underground. 
From the lake the Mont Pelat can be 
climbed (there is said to be now a 
mule path up it) in 2§-3 hrs., the 
view of the Dauphine, Viso, Cham- 
beyron, and Argentera groups being 



very fine, though it is believed that 
the sea is not visible : the climb from 
the Cayolle glen on the N.E. is diffi- 
cult, as the rocks on that side are very- 
steep. For the Pas de Lausson, and 
the Col de la Petite Cayolle, leading 
from the lake respectively to the head 
of the Var valley and to the Col 
de la Cayolle, and for the Col du 
Talon, giving access to Fours, see 
last Rte.J 

From Alios the high road mounts 
N.W. along the Verdon, but 2 m. 
beyond La Foitx (4 m.) turns abruptly 
to the E. in order to gain (12 m.) by 
a series of zigzags the Col d'Allos or 
de Valgelaye (2,250 m., 7,382 ft.) 
300 yards on the other side is a small 
inn or 'Refuge,' with rooms, &c, 
commanding a very fine view of the 
Chambeyron group on the N.E. 

[In \\ hr. from the Refuge the 
Sestriere (2,518 m. , 8,262 ft.), on the 
N.W., may be ascended, while an 
even finer view is obtained from the 
more distant Grande Siolane (2,910 
m., 9,548 ft.), accessible in 4-5 hrs. 
from the Refuge] 

Two great zigzags lead down the 
slopes and through the fine forest ot 
Gdche past La Mahtne to the 
Bachelard glen, the level of which 
is reached at La Matire, beyond 
which that stream is crossed, and its 
right bank, and then the left bank of 
the Ubaye, followed to Barcelonnette 
(22 m i from Alios), described in § 3* 
Rte, A, 



27 



CHAPTER II. 
COTTIAN ALPS. I. 



Section 3. 
Chambeyron District. 

Route. 

A. Cuneo to Barcelonnette and Em- 

brun by the Col de l'Argentiere. 

B. Barcelonnette to Guillestre by the 

Valley of the Ubaye. Ascents 
from Maljasset. 

C. Barcelonnette to Casteldelflno by 

the Valley of the Ubaye. 

D. Cuneo to Barcelonnette by the Val 

Maira. 

E. Cuneo to the Stura or Maira Valleys 

by the Val Grana. 

Section 4. 
Viso District. 

Route. 

A. Saluzzo to Guillestre by the Val 

Varaita. 

B. Turin or Saluzzo to Guillestre by the 

Valley of the Po. 

C. Ascent of Monte Viso. 

D. Crissolo to the Val Varaita and the 

Val Pellice. 

Section 5. 
Waldensian Valleys. 

Route. 

A. Pinerolo to Abries by the Val 

Pellice. 

B. Pinerolo to Cesanne by the Col de 

Sestrieres. 

C. Torre Pellice or Bobbio to Perosa. 

D. Perosa to Abries by the Germanasca 

Valley. 



Route. 

E. Perosa to Cezanne by the Rodoretto 

Valley. 

F. Perosa to Pragelas or Fenestrelles by 

the Massello Valley. 

Section 6. 
Genevre District. 

Route. 

A. Oulx to Briancon by the Mont 

Genevre. 

B. Abries to Cesanne. 

C. Abries or Chateau Queyras to 

Briancon. 

D. Briancon to St. Michel by the 

Clairee Valley. 

E. Briancon to Bardonneche by the Col 

des Echelles. Ascent of the Mont 
Thabor. 

Section 7. 
Ambin District. 

Route. 

A. Chambery to Turin by the Frejus 

Tunnel. 

B. Modane to Turin by the Mont 

Cenis. 

C. Modane to Bardonneche. Ascent 

of the Aiguille de Scolette. 

D. Bramans to Bardonneche, Exilles, 

or Susa by the Ambin Group. 

E. Bramans or the Mont Cenis to Susa 

by the Col de Clapier. Ascents 
of the Roche and the Dents 
d'Ambin. 



The Cottian Alps rise between the 
Maritime and the Graian chains, so 
that they are limited on the S. by 
the Col de l'Argentiere, and on the 
N.E. by the Mont Cenis Pass. It 
might at first sight seem more natural 
to select as their N. limit the pass 
of the Mont Genevre, as it is the 
lowest pass across the main chain 



of the Alps traversed by a carriage 
road between the Mediterranean 
and the Maloja. But, besides the 
historical grounds which combine 
to fix that limit farther to the N., 
there are two reasons of practical 
convenience which make it undesir- 
able to choose the Mont Genevre. 
One is that it is so closely connected 



28 COTTIAN 

with the Mont Cenis that it is im- 
possible to separate the two passes 
very widely in any description, for 
the route up to each on the Italian 
side is for a considerable distance 
the same. The other is that the 
space between the Maritimes and the 
Graians is not occupied alone by 
the watershed, with its spurs and 
valleys, for to its W. we find the 
great mountain mass of the Central 
Dauphine Alps, which is quite iso- 
lated from the watershed by the 
Durance valley and its tributary the 
Guisane, and is, indeed, only con- 
nected with other ranges by the 
narrow isthmus of the Col du Lauta- 
ret. This great mass is, strictly 
speaking, part of the Cottian Alps, 
but, as it is thus isolated from the 
main chain, it is most convenient to 
place it in Chapter III., together 
with certain ranges to the N. which 
practically form part of it. The 
Col du Lautaret is hence more con- 
venient than the Mont Genevre as 
the limit between the two bits of the 
Cottians, and, as the road over the 
Col du Galibier leads over the N. 
range from the Col du Lautaret itself 
to the Arc valley, this road may be 
taken as the W. limit of the main 
chain of the Cottians, with its spurs. 
The position of the Central Dauphine 
Alps with regard to the main ridge 
of the Cottians corresponds precisely 
to that of the Western Graians 
with regard to the main chain of 
the Graians, the Col du Lautaret 
answering to the Col dTseran (see 
Chapter V.), though in the case of 
the Cottians there is no mass similar 
to that of the Grand Paradis on the 
E. side. 

In this Chapter, therefore, we have 
to describe the main chain of the 
Cottians, extending from the Col de 
PArgentiere to the Mont Cenis, 
bounded on the E. by the Pied- 
montese plain, and on the W. by 
the Durance and Guisane valleys and 
the Col du Galibier, while the valley 
of the Arc from St. Michel de 
Maurienne to Lanslebourg forms its 



ALPS. I. 

N. limit. The best known, and also 
the loftiest, peak on or near the 
main ridge of the Cottians is Monte 
Viso (3,843m., 12,609ft.) Seenfrom 
the Superga, or any other point near 
Turin, or from any of the higher 
summits of the Graian and Pennine 
ranges, this splendid mountain towers 
up in a singularly solitary fashion, 
apparently far exceeding in height all 
its neighbours. This isolated position, 
owing to which Monte Viso is so well 
seen from the Piedmontese plains, 
has caused it to be one of the 
best known mountains in the 
Alps, at least by name, and it 
is said that it is the only peak 
in the Alps which is expressly 
mentioned in the works of the writers 
of classical antiquity. But though 
the most conspicuous and loftiest 
peak of the Cottian main ridge, it is 
far from being the only prominent 
elevation on or near that ridge, for 
the Aiguille de Cha??ibeyron 1 to the 
S., is 3,400 m. (11,155 ft-) an d the 
Aiguille de Scolette (or Pierre Menue), 
to the N., is 3,505 m. (11,500 ft.) 
Another point of comparison between 
the Cottian main ridge and the 
Graians is that in neither case does 
the watershed run either roughly 
N.W. and S.E., as in the case of 
the Maritimes, or roughly from W. 
to E., as in the case of the Pennines, 
but first in one direction, then in 
the other. Thus we find that from 
the Col de PArgentiere to the Mont 
Thabor the Cottians run nearly N. W. 
and S.E., as do the Graians from 
the Levanna to the Little St. Ber- 
nard. But from the Mont Thabor 
to the Levanna the direction is nearly 
W. and E., so that, as the Mont 
Cenis Pass crosses the divide about 
midway between these two peaks, a 
portion of the Cottians, as of the 
Graians, runs nearly at right angles 
to the rest of the chain. If we adopt 
the common simile which likens the 
Alps to a rampart between France 
and Italy, Monte Viso and the 
Rochemelon, just E. of the Mont 
Cenis, may be considered as the 



INTRODUCTION 



29 



salient angles of two great bastions, 
whose re-entering angle, looking 
from the side of France, is the Mont 
Thabor. But in the case of the 
Cottians the direction of the valleys 
(particularly those of the Ubaye and 
of the Chisone), on both sides of the 
chain, is very irregular, evidencing 
the action of complicated causes in 
the elevation of the mass, though the 
predominant forces, especially on the 
French side, seem to have operated 
along the line from N.W. to S.E. 

The main ridge of the Cottians is 
described below in five Sections, the 
divisions between each of which are 
somewhat arbitrary, and based solely 
on practical convenience. The upper 
valley of the Ubaye, from Barce- 
lonnette to the Tete des Toillies, at its 
head, is thrust up like a wedge into 
the main ridge, causing it to split as 
it were into two ridges, enclosing 
that valley. Sect. 3 therefore 
describes these two ridges, two of 
the highest summits on or near 
which, the Aiguille de Chambeyron 
(3,400 m., 11,155 ft-) an d the Brec 
de Chambeyron (3,388 m. , 1 1 , 1 16 ft. ) 
(the second is the Grand Rubren, 
3,396 m., 11,142 ft.), entitle it to be 
called the Chambeyron District, N, 
of this region is the Viso District 
proper (Section 4), wherein are 
described not merely that great peak 
and its neighbours, but the many 
historical passes leading from the 
Varaita and upper Po valleys to the 
long and sinuous valley of the Guil, 
a tributary of the Durance valley. 
Next, in Section 5, it is proposed 
to describe a district lying entirely on 
the Italian slope and possessing an 
historical unity — namely, the Wal- 
densian Valleys of Piedmont — its 
culminating peaks being the Rognosa 
de Sestrieres (3,279 m., 10,758 ft.), 
above the pass of that name. Sec- 
tion 6 has no unity at all of its 
own, but includes the valleys on the 
French slope, lying N. and S. of the 
Mont Genevre pass, whence it may 
be called the Genevre District, the 
Mont Thabor (3,182 m., 10,440 ft.) 



1 being its best known peak, though 
the Roche du G?-and Galibier (3,242 
m., 10,637 ft.) in the N., and the 
Rochebrune (3,324 m., 10,906 ft.) 
and the Brie Froid (3,310 m., 
10,860 ft.) in the S., are its highest 
I summits. Finally, the country be- 
i tween the Frejus Tunnel (wrongly 
! called the Mont Cenis Tunnel) and 
the Mont Cenis pass forms the sub- 
ject of Section 7, under the name 
of the Ambin District, that being its 
principal snow-clad mass, though the 
I highest summits, the Aiguille de 
Scolette (3,505 m., 11,500 ft.) and 
the Rognosa d'Etache (3,385 m. , 
1 1, 106 ft. ) rise to its W. 

The Italian slope of the main ridge 
, of the Cottians is fully described in 
! vol. i. of Signori Martelii and Vac- 
1 carone's excellent 1 Guida delle Alpi 
; Occidentali' (Turin, 1889). The 
French slope is described in Joanne's 
new 6 Dauphine,' (1898), while the 
same writer's ' Savoie ' (1895) ^ s ver 7 
useful for the Savoyard portions of the 
1 regions described in Sections 6 and 7, 
j but otherwise for the moment infor- 
1 mation must be sought in many 
I scattered articles, the more important 
j of which will be mentioned in the 
Introductions to the several Sections, 
j M. Tivolliers mainly historical 
' Monographic de la Vallee ■ du 
Queyras ' (Gap, 1897) and the ' Guide 
du Touriste dans le Brianconnais ' 
(' Guides Miriam ' series, 1898) de- 
; scribe a considerable portion of the 
French slope, but the ranges round 
the Ubaye valley have hitherto been 
strangely overlooked by travellers and 
writers, perhaps because they happen 
to be in the French Department of 
the Basses Alpes, a name which has 
caused their height to be under- 
estimated. 

As a curiosity it may be stated here 
that the Chambeyron and Ambin 
groups alone present the character of 
glacier-clad mountain masses ; else- 
where, in this portion of the Cottians, 
even round the Viso, ice and snow are 
found but rarely. 

As in the case of the Maritimes, all 



30 COTTIAN ALPS. L § 3. 



CHAMBEYRON DISTRICT 



the sheets of the French and Italian 
Government Surveys representing the 
Cottians have been published, while 
the remarks as to passports, sketch- 
ing, photographing, &c, made with 
regard to the Maritime Alps, apply 
also to the Cottians, save perhaps as 
regards Crissolo, the usual starting 
point for the ascent of Monte Viso, 
and as regards the frequented por- 
tions of the Waldensian valleys. 



SECTION 3. 

CHAMBEYRON DISTRICT. 

In this district we include the two 
ridges enclosing the valley of the 
TJbaye above Barcelonnette, which 
are crowned by many peaks, while 
passes lead across them on the one 
hand to the Guil valley, and on the 
other to those of the Stura, Maira, 
and Varaita. The principal summits 
are the Aiguille de Chambeyron, 
3,400 m., 11,155 ft. (the loftiest 
peak between the Mediterranean and 
the Viso), the Grand Rubren (3,396 
m., 11,142 ft.), the Brec de Cham- 
beyroji (3,388 m., 11,116 ft.), the 
Point e de la Font Sancte, 3,370 m., 
11,057 ft. (probably Baron Zach's 
' Pointe des Orches,' though far from 
attaining the height of 3,995 m. 
(13,107 ft.), which he attributes to it), 
Panestrel (3,253 m. , 10,673 fr*)j 
Peou Roc (3,231 m., 10,601 ft.), the 
Pic dn Pelvat (3,218 m., 10,558 ft.), 
the Pointe Haute de Mary (3,212 m., 
10,539 ft.), and the most northerly 
peak of all, the Tete des Toil lies 
(3,179 m., 10,430 ft.) All these 
fine summits (save the Brec, best 
taken from St. Paul) are most con- 
veniently attacked from Maljasset, 
the highest hamlet in the Ubaye 
valley. Its position is one of the 
finest in the Alps so far as climbers 
are concerned, and it may be ranked 
in that respect with La Berarde, 



Bonneval, and Val dTsere, in the 
S. W. Alps, but as yet the accommoda- 
tion is not good, though doubtless at 
some future day, when the possi- 
bilities of Maljasset as a 6 centre ' 
come to be realised, it will be im- 
proved, as it deserves to be. 

The passes from the upper Ubaye 
valley to the neighbouring glens are 
described in Rtes. A, B, and C, below. 
The most frequented to the Guil 
valley are the Cols de Vars (char 
road), and Girardin (mule track), 
while the Col de Maurin or de Ma?y 
(mule track) leads to the Val Maira, 
and the Col de Longet (also a mule 
track) to the Val Varaita. But by far 
the easiest pass over the ridges en- 
closing the upper Ubaye valley is the 
Col de V Argentiere, traversed by a 
carriage road, and one of the historical 
' Passes of the Alps,' though but little 
known to foreign travellers. The 
ranges separating the valleys of the 
Stura, Maira, and Varaita are of con- 
siderable height, but are traversed in 
most directions by passes of no diffi- 
culty. 

The fullest information as to the 
peaks of this district is to be found in 
an article on the Chambeyron district 
in the tenth volume of the ' Alpine 
Journal,' by Mr. Coolidge, the prin- 
cipal explorer of the group, as well as 
in that mountaineer's contributions to 
the sections on 6 New Expeditions ' in 
the same periodical for 1879, 1 881, 
1888, and 1890. 



ROUTE A. CUNEO TO BARCELONNETTE AND EMBRUN 31 



Route A. 

CUNEO TO BARCELONNETTE AND 
EMBRUN BY THE COL DE 
L'ARGENTIERE. 

M. 



Borgo San Dalmazzo . 8 

Demonte ... 19 

Aisone .... 23 

Vinadio .... 25^ 

Pianche .... 28^ 

Sambuco . . . 31^ 

Pietraporzio ... 34 

Ponte San Bernardo . 35 

Berzesio 39 
Argentera . . .41 

Col de lArgentiere . 45^ 

Larche .... 49 

Meyronnes 53 

La Condamine . . 57 

Jausiers ...» 60 

Barcelonnette . . 66 

Le Martinet ... 74 

Le Lauzet ... 79 
Ubaye . . . . .85 

Prunieres ... 92 

Embrun . . . 101 



Railway to Borgo San Dalmazzo ; good 
carriage road thence to Prunieres. 
Diligences run up to Vinadio and 
Argentera, and down (once a day) 
from Larche to Barcelonnette (3 
hrs.), and thence (thrice a day) to 
Prunieres (3^ hrs. ) ; railway thence to 
Embrun (h hr.) 

The Col de 1'Argentiere, also 
called the Col de Larche, and the Col 
della Maddalena (Madeleine), is the 
only main pass between the Col de 
Tenda and the Mont Genevre which is 
traversed by a carriage road. It 
shares with these two passes, the 
Lukmanier and the Maloja, the dis- 
tinction of being one of the five 
carriage passes W. of the Brenner, 
but across the main chain of the Alps, 
the height of which is yet under 
2,000 m. (6,562 ft.), though it is the 
highest of the five. It is not men- 
tioned in the Itineraries, but the 
inscriptions, antiquities, and ruins 
found on either side seem to prove 
satisfactorily that it was known to the 
Romans, and even to the Celts. Mr. 
Freshfield, indeed, has (in the nth 



and 13th volumes of the 'Alpine 
Journal ') made an attempt to prova 
that it was the pass crossed by 
Hannibal, but it is far more certain 
that it was the passage of Francis L 
in 1 5 1 5 with a large army that first 
brought it into historical prominence. 
It was later traversed by French and 
Spanish armies in 1692, 17 10, and 
1744. Napoleon ordered a road to 
be made over it bearing the proud, 
title of ( Route Imperiale d'Espagne 
en Italie,' and even now (though that 
project has not yet been fully carried 
out) it is styled the road * from 
Montpellier to Coni ' (Cuneo). It is, 
perhaps, the gentlest and easiest pass 
in the whole of the Western Alps, 
and has been compared to the road 
between Keswick and Ambleside. 

The way as far as Borgo San Dal- 
mazzo (8 m.) has been described in 
§ 1. Rte. A. The traveller bound 
for the Col de 1'Argentiere here 
leaves on the S. the railway to Limone 
and the road to Valdieri, and turning 
to the \Y. enters the valley of the 
Stura di Demo)ite, so called to dis- 
tinguish it from the Stura di Lanzo, 
N.W. of Turin. Soon after, the 
Stura appears in its deep course in the 
valley, and beyond it, rising abruptly 
amidst some pinnacled rocks and 
precipices, lies the village of Rocca- 
sparvera. A little farther on the 
road winds down to the river, crosses 
it to Gajola, and continues on its left 
bank almost throughout the rest of 
the valley. The cultivated land 
which borders the Stura is very rich 
and luxuriant, and the forms of the 
adjoining mountains highly pic- 
turesque. 1 1 m. from the Borgo is 

Demonte (778 m., 2,553 t1ne 
principal town in the lower portion 
of the valley, and at the junction 
of the Arma torrent with the Stura. 

[Through the Arma glen runs the 
mule path to the Col del Mulo 
(2,401 m., 7,878 ft.), a plain which 
forms a triple pass leading to Sambuco, 
and the head of the Val Grana, as 
well as, in 9 hrs., to Prazzo, in the 
Val Maira. But a much shorter way 



32 COTTIAN ALPS. I. § 3. 



CHAMBEYRON DISTRICT 



to the Val Grana is by the mule path 
over the Col del? Ortiga (1,768 m., 
5,801 ft.), by which Monterosso is 
reached in 4^ hrs. from Demonte. 
On the other side of the Stura the 
Col della Madonna (1,291 m., 
4,236 ft.) leads over in 3 hrs. to the 
town of Valdieri (§ 1. Rte. F).J 

On a mound between Demonte 
and the Stura are the ruins of a fort, 
once considered very strong, which 
guarded this entrance into Piedmont. 
It was dismantled in 1744 by the 
French troops, after their failure to 
take Cuneo, and finally destroyed 
in 1 80 1, when Piedmont for a time 
became part of France. 

The scenery of the valley, rich in 
fine timber, and backed by bold 
rocky summits, continues to pre- 
serve the same character as it ascends 
past Aisone (whence the Col della 
Valletta, 2,488 m., 8,163 ft. — § 1. 
Rte. F — leads in 8 hrs. to the Baths 
of Valdieri) to 

Vinadio (920 m., 3,018 ft.), the 
principal place in the valley, and a very 
strongly fortified little town, so that 
strangers are regarded with great sus- 
picion, as being possibly Frenchmen. 
It is in a very picturesque position. 

[A short distance above the little 
town, on the right bank of the Stura, 
two converging lateral valleys pour 
their torrents into that river at nearly 
the same point. Through the more 
easterly of these — the Rio Freddo 
glen — two rough passes, the Pas so 
della Paur and the Col de Afalinvern, 
give access to the Valasco, and so to 
the Baths of Valdieri (10 hrs. ; see 
§ 1. Rte. F), while at the very head 
of the glen the Col della Lombarda 
(2,395 m -j 75858 ft.) leads by a mule 
path to the upper part of the Ciasti- 
glione glen, through which Isola, in 
the Tinee valley, is reached in 9 hrs. 
from Vinadio. The other lateral 
glen, that of San? Anna, affords a 
more direct communication, also by a 
frequented mule path, past the 
Sanctuary of Sant' Anna, and over 
the Col di San? Anita (2,318 m. , 
7,605 ft.), with Isola, 8 hrs. from 



Vinadio to Isola. For both passes 
see § 1. Rte. E, and § 2. Rte. A. 
From Vinadio it is easy to gain the 
track from Aisone over the Col della 
Valletta to the Baths of Valdieri.} 

The Stura valley becomes wilder 
and narrower before the road reaches 
the hamlet of Pianche. 

[At this hamlet a ravine opens to 
the S.W., through which, past many 
fine waterfalls, a carriage road mounts 
for 3 m. to the Baths of Vinadio 
(1,275 m -> 4-5 x 83 ft) ? frequented by 
Italian visitors, especially wounded 
soldiers. Its situation in a narrow 
glen is cold and comfortless, except 
in the finest weather. Hence the 
Col di Guercia (2,451 m., 8,042 ft.) 
leads over to Isola, in the Tinee 
valley, while the rough Passo del? 
Ischiator, and the mule path over the 
Passo di Collalunga (2,600 m., 
8,531 ft.), give access to the same 
valley, higher up, and nearer St. 
Etienne de Tinee. For all these 
passes see § 1. Rte. E, and § 2. Rte. 

Above Vinadio the scenery becomes 
more and more wild and Alpine, 
while the geologist will not fail to 
observe that in this part of the valley 
the Stura follows pretty closely the 
line of junction between the gneiss 
and the Secondary slates. Three 
miles beyond Pianche is the hamlet of 
Sambuco (1,133 m., 3^7 1 7 ft- ), whence 
the Col del Mulo, as noted above, 
leads either to Demonte, or to Prazzo 
in the Val Maira. 

Higher up the valley three small 
villages are passed, Pietraporzio, 
Ponte Bernardo, and Preinardo, each 
at or near the mouth of a narrow 
glen, through which respectively the 
Col du Vallonet, 2,975 m., 9,761 ft. 
(whence the Mont Tin i bras , 3,032 m. , 
9,948 ft., can be climbed), the Passo 
della Ciazisa (2,900 m., 9,515 ft.), 
and the Col du Per (2,550 m., 
8,366 ft.) lead over the main chain 
of the Maritime Alps to St. Etienne 
de Tinee, or to the Tinee valley, a 
little above (see § 2. Rte. A). From 
Ponte Bernardo the Col de Servagno, 



ROUTE A. CUNEO TO BARCELONNETTE AND EMBRUN 33 



2,578 m., 8,458 ft. (bad mule path), 
leads over in 7-8 hrs. to Prazzo, in 
Val Maira. Between Ponte Ber- 
nardo and Preinardo is the famous 
defile of the Barricate, in which the 
road is carried along a shelf cut in 
the precipices. The 4 Barricades' 
were forced with great difficulty by 
the French army in 1 5 1 5, but turned 
(as they may easily be) by a path on 
the hill-side on the S. in 1744. 
They are not nearly as impressive as 
the traveller would gather from the 
notices in the older writers. Between 
Pietraporzio and Preinardo the road 
crosses the Stura several times, but 
returns finally to the left bank before 
reaching Berzesio (1,625 m., 5>33 2 ft. ) 
Opposite Preinardo, high above the 
left bank of the Stura, is the village 
of Servagfio, whence a bad mule 
track leads over the pass of that 
name (2,578 m., 8,458 ft.) in 8 hrs. to 
Prazzo, in the Val Maira. The head 
of the valley of the Stura here pre- 
sents very wild rock scenery. On 
the W. the Mont Enchastraye 
(2,955 m -j 9>695 ft.) is seen, while on 
the N. the Monte delta Scaletta 
(2,839 m., 9,315 ft.) rises near the 
point whence streams flow down in 
different directions to the Val Maira 
and the Ubayette, as well as towards 
the Stura. 2 m. beyond Berzesio is 
Argentera (1,690 m., 5,545 ft.), the 
last village in the Stura valley, and 
so naturally the site of the Italian 
Custom House. 

[Hence a mule track over the Col 
de Pourriac (2,506 m. , 8,222 ft.) 
leads in 5^ hrs. to St. Etienne de 
Tinee, and from the pass the Mont 
Enchastraye can be climbed in 1 \ hr. 
N. of that peak is the Col du Lati- 
zanier (2,656 m., 8,714 ft.), which 
leads from the head of the Pourriac 
glen to the magnificent pasture hollow 
of Lauzanier, and so to the high road 
on the French side of the Col de 
l'Argentiere, a little below the pass 
itself. To the E. of the Col de 
l'Argentiere there is a smugglers' pass, 
the Col de Roburent (2,494 m., 
8,183 ft-) ? over which a mule track 
1. 



leads in 5 hrs. from Argentera 
through the Oronaye glen to the same 
point on the high road from the Col 
de l'Argentiere. At some distance to 
the N. of the Col de Roburent, and 
on the frontier ridge, rises the fine 
rock peak of the Tele de Moyse, or 
d ] Oronaye (3,110 m. , 10,204 ft«)» 
which may be scaled by means of a 
great gully in the S. flank, and steep, 
; brittle rocks. From the Roburent lake 
j on the way up to the Col of that 
; name a mule path crosses the ridge 
j N. W. of the Monte Scaletta (2,839 m. , 
j 9,315 ft.) by the Col delta Scaletta 
. (2,614 m -5 8,576 ft.), which gives 
access in 6J hrs. from Argentera to 
I Acceglio, the highest village in the 
Val Maira. J 

From Argentera the road climbs by 
a series of zigzags to the high plateau 
of the Maddaiena, along which it 
mounts nearly at a level past the 
Maddaiena lake (the source of the 
Stura, and perhaps also of the 
Ubayette, which bursts out from the 
mountain-side on the French slope a 
short distance below the summit of 
the pass ; there is a small inn near 
the lake) to the Col de l'Argentiere, 
(1,995 m., 6,545 ft.) 

The view from the pass includes on 
the Italian side the Punta dell' Argen- 
j tera, the Monte Matto, and other of 
the peaks round Valdieri, and on the 
French side the dark mountain chain 
N. of Barceionnette. Many rare plants 
are found in the immediate neighbour - 
j hood of the Col, including Eryngiuni 
I alpinu?n, Brass ica Richer i, and 
Dracocephalu m ruysch ian um. 

The road descends on the French 
side over gently inclined and flowery 
pastures forming part of the great pla- 
teau, and then by two -great zigzags 
gains the first French village, Maison- 
meam, 2 m. beyond which is the 
principal village in the Ubayette valley, 
that of Larcke, 1,697 m -> 5,568 ft. , 
where the curious traveller may find a 
Greek motto on a sundial. 

£On the way from the Col here 
falls in the path over the rough pass 
of the Pas de la Mule, or de la Cavalz 

D 



34 COTTIAN ALPS. L § 3. CHAMBEYRON DISTRICT 



(2,671m., 8,763 ft.), by which and 
through the Lattzanier glen Larche 
is gained from St. Etienne de Tinee 
in 6-7 hrs. The ascent of the Rocher 
des Trots Eveques ( 2, 862 m. , 9, 390 ft. ) , 
a very important topographical point, 
just S. of the Mont Enchastraye, may 
be combined with the pass (see § 2. 
Rte. A). N.E. of Larche two passes 
lead over to Acceglio, in the Val 
Maira, in about 5 hrs. There is a bad 
mule track over the lower and more 
southerly of these, the Col des Jlfonges, 
or delle Munie or Monie (2,545 m., 
8,350 ft.) The more northerly is 
the more frequented Col de Sautron 
(2,689 m., 8,823 ft.), the track over 
which is marked by poles at regular 
intervals. The latter is commanded 
on the W. by the Fort of Viraysse, the 
existence of which will probably now 
hinder the wanderer or geologist from 
taking the following charming walk 
along the French side of the frontier 
from the Col de l'Argentiere to St. 
Paul sur Ubaye : from the Col gain 
over pastures the Oronaye glen, and 
then bear always to the N.W. over 
the depression marked 2,506 m. on 
the French map, the narrow window 
of the Col de la Portiolctte^ the 
rounded ridge of the Col du Vallonnet, 
and so to the hamlet of Fotiillozcze, 
whence the high road in the Ubaye 
valley — see next Rte. — may be gained 
in -| hr. at Grande Serejme, \ hr. 
above St. Paul. 3 

The road descends along the right 
bank of the Ubayette, past (4 m.) 
the hamlet of Meyrojines (whence the 
Col de Mirandol leads over in 3J hrs. 
to St. Paul), beyond which the river 
is crossed before descending to a 
stony basin (to the right is the hamlet 
of Gleisolles) at the junction of the 
Ubayette with the Ubaye. This 
important strategical point is domi- 
nated by the remarkable Fort of 
Toiirnoux on the W. , which blocks 
the way to the Col de Vars (see next 
Rte. 1), as well as those to the Col 
de l'Argentiere and to Barcelonnette. 
It is hewn out of the living rock, and 
is one of the most noteworthy of the 



fortifications on the Franco-Italian 
frontier, though older than most o 
these. 

The road now turns S.W. and 
beneath the Fort crosses to the right 
bank of the Ubaye, which is followed 
henceforth to Barcelonnette. At the 
hamlet of La Condamine (4 m.) there 
branches off on the W. the new mili- 
I tary road by a tunnel under the Col 
de Parpaillo7i, and the Crevoux glen, 
to Embrun, in the Durance valley. 
A narrow gorge leads from La Con- 
damine to the prosperous-looking 
village of Jausiers (3m.), where are 
many villas built by natives who have 
returned hither during the past 50 or 
60 years after making their fortunes 
in Mexico, and are called here c les 
Americains. ' 

[For the mule path over the Col 
des Granges Communes (2,512 m., 
8,242 ft.) hence to St. Etienne de 
Tinee see § 2. Rte. A ad fin."^ 

The valley of the Ubaye widens 
and the scene becomes more and mor$ 
smiling and fertile as the traveller 
gradually approaches Barcelonnette, 
1,133 m., 3,717 ft. (6 m.) This well- 
built little town of 2,000 inhabitants is 
situated in a charming position in an 
open and very fertile basin and on the 
right bank of the Ubaye. It was 
refounded 'in 1231 by leave of Ray- 
mond Berenger IV., Count of Pro- 
vence and Barcelona (whence the 
name of the town). It passed into the 
possession of Savoy in 1388, being 
; formally ceded in 14 19, and was 
j often attacked and sacked by the 
French, though it was only in 1 7 13 
that, by the Treaty of Utrecht, this 
valley on the W. slope of the Alps 
was acquired by France in exchange 
for her possessions on the E. slope, 
Exilles, Fenestrelles, and Casteldel- 
fmo ' (M.) (for these places see the 
later Sections of this Chapter). 

[For the routes to Nice by the Var 
and Verdon valleys, see § 2. Rtes. B 
and C. It is 53 m. by high road from 
Barcelonnette past Seyne to Digne 
(11 hrs. by diligence).] 

The Ubaye joins the Durance at 



ROUTE A. CUNEO TO BARCELONNETTE AND EMBRUN 35 



a point about 12 m. below Embrim, 
flowing during the last part of its 
course through a narrow ravine. 
This is at the W. end of the 
mountain chain between the lower 
reach of the Ubaye and the valley of 
the Durance near Embrun. There 
are several rough passages for pedes- 
trians across this chain, nearer Bar- 
celonnette, but most travellers will 
prefer to drive to Embrun. 

Below Barcelonnette the scenery of 
the Ubaye valley is of a bare and 
somewhat dreary character, owing 
to the rapid disintegration of the 
Jurassic rocks. The road runs along 
the right bank of the Ubaye and 
passes below the village of St. Pons, 
where a church and the ruins of a castle 
are finely placed. It is then carried by 
a dyke through a torrent-swept plain. 
The village of Les Thuiles (4 J m. ) is 
traversed ; Meolans (2J m.) is.seen on 
the opposite bank. At the hamlet 
of Le Martinet (1 m. ), where the 
road crosses to the 1. "bank of the 
Ubaye, there opens out on the S. 
the glen (nummulitic rocks) of St. 
Barthelemy, or of the Rion de la 
Blanche, through which Digne may 
be reached either by the Col des Tetes 
or de Mariaud and the Garebre glen, 
or across the peak of the Trots 
Eveches, 2,927 m., 9,603 ft. (see § 2. 
Rte. C) and by the Bleone glen. 13 
miles from Barcelonnette is Le Lauzet, 
the most picturesque spot in the lower 
Ubaye valley. Close to it is a small 
lake, abounding in carp and tench, 
and surrounded by wooded slopes 
and patches of cultivated ground. 
Below this point the valley resumes 
its natural wild and barren aspect, 
which it maintains all the way to its 
junction with the Durance. Below 
Le Lauzet the Ubaye passes through 
a narrow defile 1 m. from Le Lauzet, 
the high road to Digne by Seyne and 
the Col de Labonret (1,216 m., 
3,990 ft.) mounts to the left and 
passes through a tunnel pierced 
through the spur on which is built 
the Fort of St. Vincent. But our 
road descends to cross back to the 



right bank of the Ubaye. Six miles 
from Le Lauzet, after a rapid descent, 
is the village of Ubaye, whence a road 
crosses the Col de Pontis (1,218 m., 
3,996 ft.) to Savines in the Durance 
valley. But the main carriage road 
now runs from Ubaye along the 
right bank of the Ubaye for 4 m. 
to the bridge over the Durance, a 
little above its junction with the 
Ubaye and 3 m. below the station 
of Prunieres (7 m. from Ubaye or 
25^ m. from Barcelonnette), on the 
railway from Gap to Briancon (de- 
scribed in § 9. Rte. Q), 9 m. below 
Embrun (see § 9. Rte Q). 



Route B. 

BARCELONNETTE TO GUILLESTRE 
BY THE VALLEY OF THE UBAYE. 
ASCENTS FROM MALJASSET. 

Char road to St. Paul (diligence iri 
2.\ hrs.) and to Maljasset, then mule 
or foot paths. 

The Ubaye is formed by the union 
of many torrents, and descends be- 
tween two high ranges, in a S.W. 
direction as far as Barcelonnette, and 
then in a W. one, till, after a course 
of about 50 miles from its source, it 
unites with the Durance. It is a 
pastoral valley, which in summer 
supports a vast number of sheep, 
that are pastured in the winter on 
the plains of Provence, especially 
that of La Crau, near Aries. This 
poor mountain district has been the 
scene of many encounters between 
the troops of the Duke of Savoy and 
those of France, but (as stated in the 
last Rte. ) was finally ceded to France 
in 171 3 by the Treaty of Utrecht. 
It is celebrated for the fine green 
marble quarries found at its head, 
which to a certain extent are worked. 

It was pointed out in the Introduc- 
tion to this Chapter that the valley of 
D 2 



36 COTTIAN ALPS. I. § 3. 



CHAMBEYRON DISTRICT 



the Ubaye is thrust up like a wedge 
into the main range of the Alps, 
with which it runs parallel, and 
which it thus splits' into two ridges. 
That on the S.E. is the watershed 
of the Alpine chain, and will be 
described in the next Rte. That on 
the N.W. separates the Ubaye from 
the Durance valley ; its lower por- 
tion was described in the foregoing 
Rte., so that in the present Rte. 
we may confine ourselves to the 
upper part of the valley, above its 
junction, near Gleisolles, with that 
of the Ubayette, descending from 
the Col de l'Argentiere. It will be 
most convenient to also include in 
this Rte. a brief enumeration of the 
principal ascents which may be made 
from the admirably situated centre 
of Malj asset. 

The way from Barcelonnette as 
far as the meeting of the Ubaye 
and the Ubayette was described 
in the last Rte. The char road 
then crosses the latter, and very 
soon after the former stream, and is 
carried under the fortifications of 
Tournoux, leaving on the left, above 
the road, the hamlet of Tournoux 
and its fine woods. The road runs 
above the river, which it crosses twice 
to avoid a dangerous slope, and 
traverses the narrow and savage 
gorge of Reyssole, on emerging from 
which it enters the well-cultivated 
hollow in which (14 m. from Barce- 
lonnette) is St. Paul sur Ubaye, a 
considerable village built at a height 
of 1,470 m. (4,823 ft.), at the junc- 
tion with the Ubaye valley of the 
narrow glen leading up to the Col 
de Vars (see below). (For the Cols 
de Mirandol and du Vallonnet to 
Larche and the Col de l'Argentiere 
see last Rte.) From St. Paul just 
the tip of the Brec de Chambeyron 
(3,388 m., 11,116 ft.) is visible. 

[The ascent of that fine summit 
is the only attraction to the moun- 
taineer to make a day's halt at St. 
Paul ; it was first conquered in 1878 
by two men of Fouillouze, the ascent 
being repeated next year by Mr. 



Coolidge. It is made in if hr. from 

the Col ' della Gippiera or Cuppiera 
(2,918 m., 9,574 ft.)— see below)— 
at its N. foot, by the easy rocks of 
its E. or Italian face, a conspicuous 
snow ridge, not far from the S. arete, 
and a gully closed by a huge boulder, 
over which it is necessary to scramble. 
The Col may be gained in 4 J- 5 hrs. 
from St. Paul by way of the hamlet 
of Fouillouze (see below) and a steep 
stony track which leads past several 
small lakes to the pass, which is also 
accessible in 5 hrs. from Acceglio, in 
the Val Maira, by the route of the 
Col de Stroppia (see Rte. D). It 
is from Fouillouze or from Grande 
Serenne, in the main Ubaye valley^ 
that the Brec is most majestic. The 
summit consists of a spacious plateau, 
sloping gently towards the W. The 
expedition offers but little difficulty, 
though it is rather long if taken in 
one day from St. Paul and back. 3 

The road continues along the right 
bank of the Ubaye all the way to 
Maljasset. Two miles from St. Paul 
is the hamlet of Gra?ide Serenne, 
dominated by the Brec, and at the 
entrance of the Fouillouze glen, the 
chief hamlet therein being gained in 
under an hour by a zigzag and stony 
track, though the char road thither 
crosses the bridge over the Ubaye 
to be mentioned presently. Grande 
Serenne is at the foot of the great 
rocky barrier (89 m. , 292 ft., in 
height) of the C hate let or Cast el let, 
which seems to entirely block the 
valley. The road mounts round it 
on the W. On attaining its upper 
edge some old fortifications are seen, 
while the Ubaye roars at a great 
depth below in a narrow gorge, 
through which a glimpse is gained of 
the smiling basin of St. Paul, a great 
contrast to the dreary character of 
the valley beyond the Chatelet. At 
the point where the gorge is narrowest 
a bold bridge has been thrown across 
it at a height of no m. (361 ft.) 
above the stream, and thus gives; 
access to the char road to Fouillouze 
(2| m.) Some way up the Ubaye 



ROUTE B. ASCENTS FROM MALJASSET 



37 



valley (3 m. from Grande Serenne) 
is the Pont Voi'ite, over which passed 
the old path. The scene is now 
dreary and desolate in the extreme, 
the precipitous rocks on either side 
being torn and seamed by many 
torrents. One mile from the Pont 
Voute is the delicious green oasis of 
La Blachiere, but beyond desolation 
reigns once more. A short ascent 
leads up at length to the hollow of 
Maurin, in which are three hamlets : 
the first is La Barge, the next 
Maljasset, between which and the 
third, Co?nbe Bremond, is the parish 
church, with an inscription above 
the door recalling its destruction by 
an avalanche in 153 1, while in the 
churchyard wall is a niche destined 
to hold the coffins of those inhabitants 
who die during the winter, as it is 
impossible here to dig a grave till 
the return of spring. Maljasset is 
8 m. from St. Paul, and may be 
reached thence in 2J—3 firs.' walking. 

Maljasset (1,910 m., 6,267 ft.) is 
often called Maurin (perhaps a form 
of Mary), as it is the chief hamlet of 
that beautiful green valley, the S.E. 
slope of which is clothed with fine 
timber, and partly quarried out into a 
marble quarry. From the village 
only Panestrel and the cairn on the 
Grand Rubren are visible, but a 
buttress called the Tete de Miejour 
(2,689 m., 8,823 ft.) of the Aiguille 
de Chambeyron on the S., and 
another on the N., make a grand 
show. Opposite is the broad open- 
ing of the Combe de Mary, through 
which several passes lead to the Yal 
Maira (see below and Rte. D). 
Maljasset, as has been pointed out in 
the Introduction to this Chapter, is 
one of the finest mountaineering 
headquarters in the S.W. Alps, and 
lacks only a good inn to be properly 
appreciated, a want which it is to be 
hoped may soon be supplied. 

[The belvedere of Maljasset is the 
Pointe de Mary (Maurin) (3,129 m., 
10,266 ft.), on the S.E. side of the 
valley, and easily reached in 3 hrs. 
or less past the marble quarry oppo- 



site the village, and by the W. arete. 
The view includes the Matterhorn 
and the Viso, as well as all the 
neighbouring peaks, which can be 
very well studied hence. The 
monarch of the group, and indeed of 
all the ranges between the Viso and 
the Mediterranean, is the Aiguille 
de Chambeyron (3,400 m., 11,155 ft.), 
to the S. of Maljasset. It was first 
I scaled in 1879 by Mr. Coolidge, who 
from the Marinet lakes took a circuit- 
ous route round itsW. and S.W. spurs, 
so as to gain the S. face, which led to 
the top in 6 J- hrs. from Maljasset. But 
in 1883 M. J. Nerot, when making 
the second ascent, discovered a much 
better route from the X. by way of a 
broad snow couloir leading up to the 
1 gap between the peak and the frontier 
ridge (for the Aiguille is wholly in 
France), whence a descent and reascent 
led to the final red rocks of the S. face 
(climbed in 1879), so that by this 
route the summit may be reached in 
6 hrs. or less from Maljasset. In 
1893 Signor P. Gastaldi from the 
Col de Marinet (N.E. of the peak ; see 
Rte. D), climbed up the E. arete to 
a point S. of and 20 m. (66 ft. ) 
lower than the highest summit, thence 
descending on to the S. face, and re- 
mounting by the red rocks to that 
summit, while in 1894 the same 
mountaineer mounted in 4J hrs. 
direct to the top from the Col della 
Gippiera (see above under the Brec), 
by way of the great rock couloir in 
the steep S. face and the rocks to its 
W. The latter route enables a 
traveller to take either the Aiguille 
or the Brec on the way from Acceglio, 
i in the Yal Maira, to St. Paul, but a 
party starting from Maljasset should 
i follow M. Nerot's route, which 
I offers no serious difficulftes, save 
j when there is ice in the couloir, 
f Two other peaks S.E. of Maljasset, 
and opposite the Aiguille, may be 
1 dismissed more briefly. The Poinie 
Haute de Mary (3,212 m., 10,539 ft.) 
; was gained by Mr. Coolidge in 1879 
i in hrs. from Maljasset by a rather 
I difficult route up the W. face to a 



33 COTTIAN ALPS. I. § 3. CHAMBEYRON DISTRICT 



snow field lying S. of the three- 
pronged summit, while the Dents de 
Maniglia (3,177 m., 10,424 ft.) are 
easily reached in 1 hr. from the Col 
de Roure or de Ciabriera to the S. 
(see Rte. C). Finally the Pic du 
Pelvat (3,218 m. ; 10,558 ft. ), N.W. of 
the Col de Lautaret (see Rte. C, 
below), was climbed in 1881 by Mr. 
Coolidge in 4J hrs. from Maljasset by 
way of the rocks on the left bank of 
the great central couloir in its E. 
face. 

On the N.W. side of the Maurin 
valley the loftiest summit is the 
Pointe de la Font Sanete (3.370 m., 
11,057 ft.), the name being probably 
connected with the Chapel of St. 
Anne at its N.E. foot (see below 
under the Col Girardin), or possibly 
with the word 4 Sanctio,' the old 
name for the Ubaye river. It was first 
climbed in 1878 by Signor E. Novarese 
from the W. or Escreins side (the 
best way is by the more southerly %>f 
two great snow couloirs), while in 
1879 Mr. Coolidge ascended it in 
5^ hrs. from Maljasset by the rock- 
girt hollow of the Vallon Claus, and 
the E. ridge, a very convenient snow- 
filled couloir being taken on the 
descent, which led in 50 min. from 
the very base of the final peak back 
to the Vallon Claus. The view from 
the summit is extremely fine. The 
Vallon Claus is shut in by a splendid 
rock wall, at the S. end of which (the 
Font Sancte rising at its N. end) is 
the grand rocky peak of Fanestrel 
(3,253 m., 10,673 accessible in 
less than \ hr. from the Col de Panes- 
trel, described below under the 
heading of the Col des Houerts (2.). 
From the summit both Maljasset and 
Escreins are seen. To the N.E. 
of Maljasset is the double-peaked 
Peou Poc, 3,231 m., 10,601 ft. (the 
N. point is the highest), first scaled 
in 1888 by Mr. Coolidge. It is ac- 
cessible from Maljasset in about 
5-5I hrs. by way of the W. ridge 
and its S. slope, and is best taken in 
connection with the Col du Tieoure, 
(3. below). The Tete des Toillies 



(3,179 m., 10,430 ft.), at the very 
head of the valley, is best gained in 
\ hr. or less from the Col La Noire 
(see below) by a short scramble of 
10 min. up the rocks of its S.W. 
flank, the deep notch just S. of the 
I last peak being also accessible in 
j about 1 hr. from either the Col de 
j Longet, on the S.E., or from the Col 
Blanchet, on the N.E. The peak 
commands a very fine view, as it 
i rises at the junction of the Ubaye, 
Varaita, and St. Veran valleys. 

But perhaps an even finer view of the 
\ Viso is gained from the Grand Rubren 
(3,341 m., 10,962 ft.), S. of the Col 
de Longet, and crowned by a great 
cairn, visible from Maljasset. The 
ascent takes only 5 hrs. thence, 
\ and is as easy as possible. The Col 
j La Noire route (see 4. below) is fol- 
! lowed to the Blavettes huts (marked 
! 2,353 m. on the French map) on the 
: Col La Noire route, and then grass and 
I stones lead E. to the great stony basin 
' S. of the lower summit (3,341 m., 
! 10,962 ft.) The latter may be easily 
reached hence, but it is worth while 
\ to push on from that basin over the 
' S. ridge to the N.E. arete (over 
I which leads the Pas so del Lupo), 
along which the higher and E. 
summit (3,396 m. , 11,142 ft.) (the 
Monte Salza, 3,326 m. of the Italian 
map) is attained. This point com- 
mands an even finer view than the 
other, as it juts out towards Monte 
Viso, which rises opposite, separated 
only by the deep cleft of the Val 
Varaita. This higher point, reached 
by Mr. Coolidge in 1879, may be 
gained from Casteldelfino, in the 
Val Varaita, by the Bellino and Roui 
glens (see Rte. C), the Passo del 
Lupo (3,202 m., 10,506 ft.), between 
the two points, being thus attained 
(7-8 hrs. from Casteldelfino). The 
I Rubren is one of the four points 
whence the finest views of the Viso 
are obtained, the others being the 
Pelvo d'Elva (Rte. D), the Pointe 
Joanne (§ 4. Rte. A. I. d), and the 
Monte Meidassa (§ 4. Rte. B). 

This necessarily brief notice of the 



ROUTE B. BARCELONNETTE TO GUILLESTRE 39 



peaks round Malj asset shows that 
this spot has great attractions for the 
mountaineer, while from what has 
been and will be said it is clear that 
almost any of these summits may be 
taken on the way from Malj asset to 
one or other of the surrounding 
valleys. J 

We must now proceed to give a 
short account of the principal passes 
which lead from the upper valley of 
the Ubaye (all, save two, from Mal- 
jasset itself) to that of the Guil, across 
the range which divides those two 
valleys. Two only of these passes can 
be said to be frequented, the char 
road over the Col de Yars and the 
mule path over the Col Girardin, but 
there are many other passes which 
are of interest to mountaineers and 
which deserve at least a slight men- 
tion. A glance at the map will show 
that, while on the Ubaye side the 
lateral glens are unimportant, on the 
other side there are no less than four 
glens which descend to the Guil 
valley between Guillestre and Abries, 
and it may help the reader to obtain 
a clear idea of the rather intricate 
topography if we group these passes 
according to the glens on the Guil 
side into which they lead. 

1. By the Vars Glen. — Char road ; 
m. ), 4|-5 hrs. on foot. This is 
the easiest and most direct way from 
the Ubaye to the Guil valley, for the 
Col de Vars road passes mainly over 
very fine pastures, and has been used j 
by all the armies which have crossed 
the Col de l'Argentiere, to which it is 
the gate, as the lowest gorge of the 
Ubaye, near its confluence with 
the Durance, was till recently im- 
practicable. The ascent from St. 
Paul to the Col is rather steep, 
the road winding high above the Left 
bank of the stream. The summit, 
2,115 m., 6,939 ft. (4 m.), has 
a small lake which is reached by 
a pedestrian in 2 hrs. or less from St. 
Paul. The slope on the other side is 
much gentler. Less than | hr. below 
the pass is one of the ' Refuges Napo- 
leon,' a sort of modest inn, beyond 



which a most charming walk over 
grass slopes and through woods leads 
the traveller in I hr. more to the first 
hamlet, that of Ste. Marie. J hr. on 
is that of Vars Itself. (Hence the easy 
Col de la Coulette (2,365 m. , 7,760 ft. ) 
leads over to Escreins. See 2. below. ) 
Another forest is traversed, and then 
the road runs along a promontory 
between the Chagne stream on the 
left and that of the Rioubel on the 
right, splendid views of the Pelvoux 
and its neighbours, seen across the 
Durance valley, diversifying the way. 
The Rioubel (flowing from the valley 
of Escreins— see 2. below) is crossed 
just before entering (if -2 hrs. from 
Vars) the large village of Guillestre 
(950m., 3,117 ft.), at the entrance of 
the glorious Queyras valley (§ 4. 
Rte. B), and 3 m. by road from the 
Montdauphin- Guillestre station on 
the railway from Briancon to Gre- 
noble {% 9. Rte. Q). 

2. By the Escreins Glen. — This is 
one of the most unknown glens in the 
Alps, and has been but rarely visited 
by travellers of any nationality. It is 
traversed by the Rioubel torrent, 
which flows past Guillestre to join 
the Durance under the fortress of 
Montdauphin. Near the solitary ham- 
let in the valley, Escreins, c. 1,700 m. , 
5,578 ft. (which about 1890 was 
sold — houses, church, fields — to the 
commune of Vars for pastures, and is 
now entirely abandoned by its inha- 
bitants), two glens unite, that to the 
S. being the Vallon Laugier, and 
that to the S. E. the Rioubel glen : 
higher up the latter splits into two 
branches, those of Salettes, or Houerts, 
and Font Sancte. It is possible to go 
from Maljasset to Guillestre through 
any of these glens. The best route 
for a mountaineer is to cross the fine 
peak of the Font Sancte, 3,370 m., 
11,057 ft. (see above), which is well 
seen from the hamlet of Escreins. 
The most direct pass is the Col tfes 
Houerts, which might, no doubt, be 
reached from the Ubaye valley past 
the Lacs Bleu and Vert. But if 
starting from Maljasset i: is better to 



4 o COTTIAN ALPS. I. § 3. CHAMBEYRON DISTRICT 



mount to the rock hollow of the 
Vallon Claus, .at the S.W. corner of 
which there is. a great rocky gully, by 
a rocky ridge in the centre of which 
the Col de Panestrel can be attained 
in 4-4-! hrs. from Malj asset. This 
pass is at the . S. foot of Panestrel- 
(3,253 m., 10,673 ft-:)s accessible 
thence in under \ hr. A traverse of 
about an hour in a N. W. direction 
through a wild upland glen leads 
to the Col des Houerts, whence 
Escreins is reached through the 
Salettes glen in if hr. more. Yet 
another pass is the Col du Vallon 
Laugier, which leads from the village 
of Grande Serenne, between St. Paul 
and Mali asset, past the Lac des Neuf 
Couleurs, over the ridge W. of La 
Mortice to the Vallon Laugier, and so 
to Escreins in 5-6 hrs. from the 
Ubaye valley, there being no difficulty, 
as the pass is well known locally, 
and preferred to the Col des Houerts : 
it was crossed in 1879 by Mr. 
Coolidge. (From the Lac des Neuf 
Couleurs the Col dt Serenne leads 
over to Vars, 5-6 hrs. from Grande 
Serenne, while from the Vallon Lau- 
gier the easy Col de la Conlette 
(2,365 m. , 7,760 ft.) gives access to 
the same place. ) 

[From the hamlet of Escreins two 
ascents may be made besides those 
mentioned above, both achieved 
for the first time in 188 1 by Mr. 
Coolidge. One is that of the Pic 
Signaled 3,236 m., 10,617 ft. (also 
called Pic des Houerts and Aiguille 
de Jean Postan), which rises in 
solitary fashion between the Cols des 
Houerts and cu Vallon Laugier ; 
it is accessible in 5 hrs. or less from 
Escreins by the Salettes glen, the 
great snowfield at the N. foot of the 
peak, and the rotten rocks of its N. 
face. The other is the Pointe des 
Henvieres (3,273 m. , 10,739 ft.), 
N.W. of the Font Sancte, and part of 
a superb rock and snow ridge (the 
N.W. point of which, the Pointe de la 
Saume (3,203 ra., 10,509 ft.), seems 
to be still unclimbed), separating the 
Escreins and Tronchet glens. The 



I Henvieres may be reached in 4-5-hrs. 
from Escreins by the Font Sancte 

I glen, a hollow at the S.W. foot of the 

, peak, and a gully of shifting debris 
which leads from the upper edge of 
the snow band at the S.W. base of the 
final peak to the S. summit, whence 

; the higher N. one is soon gained. 

; The first party ascended by the N.W. 
ridge and W. face, but discovered this 

; curious gully (by which the return was 

i very much shortened) on the descent. J 
A mule path leads from Escreins 
along the right bank of the Rioubel 
torrent to Guillestre in I J hr. The 
upper valley is fairly broad and 
well wooded, and thence zigzags lead 

' down through a rock gorge past 
several fine ' earth pillars. ; The last 
bit is by a path through an avenue of 

1 poplars. 

It is to be hoped that in the future 
mountaineers will more frequently 

> visit this remote Alpine valley than 

; has been the case in the past. 

3. BytheM&l\&e Glen.— The vil- 

I lage of Ceillac (1,630 m., 5,348 ft.) 
stands in a large open valley, which 
is apparently the bed of an old lake. 
It takes about i| hr. to descend 
thence (the distance is 5 m.) through 
a picturesque narrow gorge to the 
Mai son du Poi, on the high road in 

! the Queyras valley (§ 4. Rte. B), 
3 m. above Guillestre. Ceillac is built 
at the meeting point of the Tronchfo 
and Crist Ulan torrents, so that there 
are several ways of reaching it from 
Maljasset. 

Through the Tronchet glen two 

, passes lead over from the Ubaye 
valley. The easiest and shortest is 
probably the middle one of the three, 
the Col Tro7ichet (2,666 m., 8,747 

: traversed by a mule path, by which 
4-4-J hrs. suffice to go from Maljasset 
to Ceillac. Rather longer, but far 
more picturesque is the path (also a 
mule track) over the Col Girardin 
(2,699 m -? 8,855 which passes 

close under the cliffs of the Font 

I Sancte and of the Henvieres. The 
way mounts from the valley just 

I below Maljasset by many zigzags up 



ROUTE B. BARCELONNETTE TO GUILLESTRE 41 



a steep slope, and then through a 
stony hollow to the pass. Most of 
the Chambeyron peaks are visible 
hence, while a glimpse is gained of 
some peaks of the Pelvoux group. 
A short descent leads down to the 
lake of Ste. Anne, near which is the 
Chapel of Ste. Anne, whither the 
inhabitants of Malj asset and of Ceillac 
come on a pilgrimage on St. Ann's 
Day (July 26) each year. The 
position is a dreary one, but the 
reflection of the great peaks on the 
W. in the still waters of the lake 
lends a certain charm to the scene. 
The lake is sometimes still frozen at 
the end of June. There is a steep 
descent on the N.E. direct to the 
main Tronchet glen. But it is in 
every way preferable to follow the 
path in a N.W. direction from the 
lake, so as to gain the little lake of 
Pres Soubeyrans , set in a frame of 
green pastures and overhung by the 
fine chain on the W. A steep 
descent, partly along the stream from 
the lake (which descends on the E. 
to form the magnificent cascade of 
Pisse, opposite the Melezet chalets, 
in the main Tronchet glen), then far 
to the left, leads down from this high 
pasture shelf to the huts of Rtia des 
Reynauds, in the main Tronchet glen. 
Hence there is a char road, by which 
Ceillac is reached in 20 min. more, 
this delightful walk from Malj asset 
requiring about 4^-5 hrs. without 
hurrying. 

Of the two passes which descend 
into the Cristillan glen on the Ceillac 
side the more southerly, the Col du 
Tieoure, will be taken only by a 
party desirous of climbing the Peon 
Roc, 3,231 m., 10,601 ft. (see above) 
en rotite. The foot track mounts 
from the Paroird lake (see under 4. 
below, 50 min. above Maljasset) by 
a steep glen to the reddish brown 
rocks of the pass, which contrast 
strongly with the white rocks of the 
peak. The Col may be attained in 
3 hrs. from Maljasset, and thence 
stones lead down to the head of 
the Cristillan glen, by which Ceillac 



is attained in 2J hrs. from the 
pass. The more northerly, the Col 
de Cristillan, is more useful, for 
when combined with the Col de 
Longet, (see next Rte.) it affords a 
direct route by which it is possible 
to go in one day from Casteldelfino, 
in the Varaita valley, to Guillestre. 
' To reach the Col de Cristillan from 
the Col de Longet you descend, 
passing on the right of the Lac de 
Longet, to the chalets at the junction 
of the Cula glen with the main 
Maurin glen. Here turn to the right 
up the Cula glen to the point where 
it forks. The right-hand branch 
leads to the Col de la Cula (see under 
4. below), giving access to St. Veran. 
Follow the left-hand branch, ascend- 
ing over steep pastures, until you 
reach a waste tract covered with 
mica-schist. Thence, bearing rather 
to the left, you gain a flat upland 
valley, with scattered blocks of iron- 
stained serpentine, wherein there is 
a small pool. The Col de Cristillan 
(9,771 ft., W. M.) is at the head of 
this valley, and a faint track leads to 
it. The views from the Col are very 
fine, including the Chambeyron and 
Dauphine peaks, besides Mont Blanc. 
The descent from the Col is over a 
steep slope of loose stones, but when 
once the pastures are reached the 
path is good, and the walking very 
easy' (T. G. B., revised). Many 
huts and small hamlets are passed on 
the way down. Two hrs. or so 
should be reckoned from one pass 
to the other, and 2\ hrs. more from 
the second pass to Ceillac. 

[Just before gaining the hamlet of 
Le Villard on the descent the Cristillan 
glen turns from a N.W. course to a 
slightly S.W. direction. From this 
turn two passes lead over to other 
glens. That on the N.E. is the Col des 
Estronques (c. 2,600 m., 8,531 ft.), 
by which St. Veran may be gained 
in 3 1 hrs. from Ceillac; the ascent 
by many zigzags is steep, but easy. 
On the other side the track runs 
through a desolate glen, for long 
high up on its lef^ side, the village 



42 COTTIAN ALPS. L § 3. CHAMBEYRON DISTRICT 



of St. Veran being always seen 
straight ahead. The other pass is 
the Col Frontage (c. 2,319 m., 7,609 
ft.), reached in i|-2 hrs. from 
Ceiilac. The way continues for J hr. 
to the N. over stony pastures, amid 
which rises a single giant pine tree, 
to the Petit Col Frontage (2,269 m -> 
7,445 ft.), while on the right hand 
there rise the two strange pointed 
rock summits known as the Mamelles. 
(The lower of these (2,618 m., 8,590 
ft.) is much easier than the more 
southerly (2,722 m., 8,931 ft.), which 
can be scaled with difficulty by way 
of the S. ridge, gained through the 
hollow S.E. of the Petit Col, or 
better from the Col de Fromage by 
crossing the gap between these two 
peaks, and then skirting the base of 
the higher.) From the Petit Col 
the traveller may go along the E. 
side of the charming Bramousse 
gorge direct to Chateau Queyras 
(? 1 hr. ), but it is better to bear N.E. 
through forests and over a low de- 
pression (the Col St. Simon) to 
Molines (2 hrs.), 3 m. above Ville 
Vieille, which is 2 m. by road above 
Chateau Queyras, or 14 m. above 
Guillestre (§ 4. Rte. B).jj 

4. By the St. Veran Glen, — The 
extreme head of the Ubaye valley is 
formed by a short ridge running E. 
and YV. , in the midst of which rises 
the peak of the Farnareita (3, 134 m. , 
10,283 ft. ), which separates the Col de 
la Cida, on the W. (6 hrs. from Mal- 
jasset to St. Veran), from the Col La 
Noire, on the E. , the latter being the 
most convenient route by which to go 
from Malj asset by St. Veran to the 
Guil valley. 

From Malj asset the rough char 
road (full of deep ruts) to the marble 
quarries is followed along the right 
bank of the Ubaye. It mounts over 
a great spur formed by fallen rocks 
from beyond Combe Bremond, the 
last hamlet, till a point is reached 
above the considerable Lac du Paroird 
(50 min.), at the junction of the glens 
leading to the Cols du Tieoure (3. 
abave) and de Lautaret (next Rte.) 



with the main valley. It is often 
stated that this lake is due to a great 
landslip, or to a barrier formed by the 
moraine of an old glacier, but it 
really owes its origin to a movement 
in the earth itself. Formerly the 
lake was a pretty sight, with the pine 
forest on its S. shore reflected in its 
still waters, but since 1887 great 
landslips have reduced it to a muddy 
pool of small extent. The road 
passes above its N. shore to the 
chalets of Ga (2,065 m -j 6,775 ft), 
15-25 min. (for the way to the Col 
de Lautaret see next Rte.), and 
thence mounts first on the left, then 
on the right, bank of the Ubaye 
i through a narrow gorge to the fine 
I pastures of Blavettes, with chalets 
(2,353 m., 7,720 ft.), \ hr. On the 
E. is the glen leading up to the 
Grand Rubren, while near the main 
path is the chief quarry of the cele- 
brated green marble of Maurin, speci- 
mens of which are to be seen scat- 
tered about from Malj asset upwards. 
Hence a mule path mounts gently 
over pastures to the highest chalets, 
at the meeting of the glens from the 
Cols de la Cula and de Longet (20 
min.) The track to the latter pass 
; is followed for some time, and then it 
j is necessary to gradually bear (hardly 
, any track) towards the N. , so as to 
gain the Col La Noire, 2,999 m -> 
! 9,839 ft. (about 3 hrs. from Mal- 
■ j asset), at the N. edge of a wild, 
stony tract. Hence the Famareita 
on the W..j or the Tete des Toillies 
on the E. (see above), may each be 
ascended in J hr. or less. St. Veran 
is seen from the pass, as well as many 
of the Dauphine peaks, but the 
panorama may be much extended by 
I mounting either summit, the Toillies 
I being specially recommended. The 
first part of the descent on the N. is 
stony, though not difficult, and soon 
the mule track from the Col Blanchet 
(see § 4. Rte. A) is joined. At a 
large chapel a char road commences, 
and runs above the right bank of the 
torrent to St. Veran, 2,009 m., 
6,592 ft. (2| hrs. from the Col.) 



ROUTE B. BARCELONNETTE TO GUILLESTRE 43 



This village is a long straggling 
hamlet built along the hill-side, and 
forming but one street, and is pic- 
turesque, though dirty. It is not the 
highest permanently inhabited hamlet 
in France, as is often asserted, this 
being L'Ecot (2,046 m., 6,713 ft.), 
near Bonneval, in the Maurienne 
(§13. Rte. I), while several villages 
in the Swiss and Italian Alps are even 
higher than L'Ecot. St. Veran is 
3 m. by a char road along the Aigue 
Blanche from Molines, where this 
route joins that from Casteldelfino 
over the Col dell' Agnello (§ 4. Rte. 
A), Molines being 3 m. above Ville 
Vieille, in the Guil valley, which is 
itself 2 m. from Chateau Queyras or 
14 m. from Guillestre (§ 4. Rte. B). 



Route C. 

BARCELONNETTE TO CASTELDELFINO 
BY THE VALLEY OF THE UBAYE. 

In the preceding Rte. we described 
the ridge which separates the upper 
Ubaye valley from that of the Guil, 
on the N.W. To complete our 
account of the upper Ubaye valley 
the present Rte. should describe 
the ridge enclosing it on its S.E. 
But while in the case of the N.W. 
ridge all the lateral glens are 
tributaries of one and the same prin- 
cipal valley, we find on consulting 
a map that two quite distinct valleys 
flow down from the S.E. ridge of our 
valley, the Val Varaita running N. of 
the Val Maira. It is more con- 
venient, therefore, to include in this 
Rte. only the N. part of the boundary 
ridge, that over which the Val 
Varaita may be reached, reserving to 
the next Rte. our notice of the Val 
Maira and the various passes at its 
head. 

The most direct way from Malj asset 
to Casteldelfino ^ at the head of the 
Val Varaita, is by the Col de Roure or 
de Ciabriera (2,825 m -> 9> 2 &9 ft.)> 



which may be attained in 4 hrs. from 
Malj asset by following first the track 
over the Col de Mary or de Maurin, 
then bearing gradually S.E. past the 
Roure lakes to the Col. It is just S. 
of the Dents de Maniglia (3,177 m., 
10,424 ft.), which are easily ascended 
hence in I hr. This pass naturally 
leads into the head of the Val Maira, 
but it is perfectly easy to traverse 
from it to the S.E. in \ hr. to the 
Colletta di Chiapera, 2,799 m., 
9,183 ft. (aim at a point S.E, of the 
apparently lowest depression), which 
connects the head of the Val Maira 
with the Bellino glen of the Val 
Varaita ; J- hr. more suffices to gain 
the mule track of the Col de Lautaret 
(see below), at the chalets of that 
name. But the more usual ways 
from Malj asset to Casteldelfino are 
the mule paths over the Col de Lau- 
taret or the Col de Longet. 

r. The path to the Col de Lan- 
taret quits the Ubaye valley at the 
Ga huts, i\ hr. from Maljasset, and 
at the E. end of the Paroird lake (see 
last Rte., 4. under the Col La Noire), 
and then turns S.E. up the splendid 
pasture valley of Lautaret. The 
track runs at a considerable height 
above the right bank of the torrent, 
crossing to the other bank higher up, 
and mounting by the sinuous path, 
(ill-marked and not good for mules) 
known as the Pas des Marchands to 
a level plain, \\ hr. from Ga. 

[Here there opens out on the N. a 
hollow through which the fine peak 
of the Pic du Pelvat (3,218 m., 
10,558 ft.) may be scaled without 
any difficulty in 2 hrs. by way of the 
rocks on the left bank of the central 
couloir in the E. face, the view from, 
the summit being most magnificent.] 

Three-quarters of an hour more 
suffices by a zigzag path up loose 
stones to gain the pass (2,873 m -> 
9,426 ft.), which is thus 3J- hrs. from 
Maljasset. It is a mere ridge marked 
by a cross and a boundary stone, 
dated 1824, with the cross of Savoy 
and the fleur de lys of France, The : 
view includes many summits of the 



44 COTTIAN ALPS. I. § 3. 

Pelvoux group, including the Aiguilles 
d'Arves, as well as most of the nearer 
peaks. 

More stones lead down on the 
Italian side in a due S. direction 
(notice this) in f hr. to the Lautaret 
huts, in a wild basin surrounded on 
all sides by rugged summits, whence 
on looking back there seems no 
visible means of exit. The path now 
turns sharply to the N. E. along the 
left bank of the torrent, and in 
20 min. attains the edge of the 
1 Barricata,' down which it descends 
in zigzags to the pasture plain of 
Cejol {\ hr.) This is surrounded on 
all sides by precipices, and is at the 
junction of the Roni glen leading i;p 
to the Grand Rubren. Thence the 
Bel lino glen runs in a due E. direc- 
tion, the path following one or other 
bank of the stream, past the principal 
hamlet of Bellino-Chiesa (if hr.), to 
its union with the Varaita valley at 
Casteldelfino (1 hr. ), which is thus 
gained in about 4 hrs. from the pass 
(see § 4. Rte. A). 

2. The way over the Col de Longet 
is even easier, for the mule track is 
much better traced, and more fre- 
quented. The way from Maljasset 
as far as the highest chalets has 
been described in Rte. B. 4. Here 
our path bears due E., and traverses 
a bare, stony plateau, whereon are 
several tarns and the more consider- 
able Lac de Longet, which is the 
true source of the Ubaye, to the Col 
(about 3 hrs. from Maljasset), 
2,672 m., 8,767 ft. It is marked by 
a boundary stone, dated 1823, and j 
bearing the cross of Savoy, and the 
fleur de lys of France, placed here, 
as on so many of the frontier passes, 
by the Commission for the Measure- 
ment of an Arc of the Mean Parallel. 
The pass commands a fine view of the 
Viso, and of the numerous tarns on 
the Italian side. The path descends 
in an E. direction past the highest 
and most picturesque of these, and 
below the second winds down steeply, 
and unites successively with the paths 
from the Cols Blanchet and de St. I 



CHAMBEYRON DISTRICT 

Veran (§ 4. Rte. A. 1. a), finally 
reaching a hollow wherein the way 
from the Col dell' Agnello (■§ 4. 
Rte. A. I. c) is joined, a little above La 
Chianale (ij hr. from the Col de 
Longet). Casteldelfino is hence 
gained by the last-mentioned route in 
2 hrs. or less. 



Route D. 

CUNEO TO BARCELONXETTE BY THE 
VAL MAIRA. 

Steam tramway to Dronero ; carriage 
road thence to Acceglio ; thence 
mule paths. 

Whoever has looked across the 
plain of Piedmont from an Alpine 
eminence must have noticed the 
range of the Montferrat Hills (rising 
immediately E. of Turin), on one of 
the outliers of which stands the 
famous Church of the Superga. At a 
not distant period — as geologists 
reckon time — when the valley of the 
Po was a gulf whence the waters 
were slowly retiring towards the 
Adriatic, these hills formed a group 
of low islands ; and at a still later 
period, when the sea had quitted the 
surrounding plains, they served to 
separate the streams poured out from 
each of the main valleys of the neigh- 
bouring Alps, forcing them into two 
main channels — one flowing to the 
S., and the other to the N., of these 
hills. The first of these is that in 
which the united waters of the Stura, 
Tanaro, and Bormida, with their 
numerous affluents, roll towards the 
Adriatic beneath the walls of Ales- 
sandria. The other, and more con- 
siderable, channel is that of the Po, 
which, issuing from its source under 
the Viso into the plain, receives a 
number of affluents equal to itself in 
volume, and passing Turin, sweeps 
round the northern base of the Mont- 
ferrat range, till all these waters are 



ROUTE D. VAL MAIRA 



45 



finally united a few miles E. of 
Valenza. 

The Maira, and its affluent the 
Grana^ although they enter the Pied- 
montese plain very near Cuneo, and 
for some distance run parallel to the 
Stura, mingle their waters with those 
of the Po. If the rule which attri- 
butes to the longest branch of a great 
river the distinction of bearing its 
name were constantly observed, the 
source of the Po would be sought at 
the head of the Val Maira, and that 
valley would not have been so much, 
and so undeservedly, neglected by 
geographers and travellers as it has 
hitherto been. 

From Cuneo to the fine, cheer- 
ful country town of Dronero (8,000 
inhabitants) the steam tramway ( 1 1 m. ) 
runs over a tolerably level stretch of 
country, skirting the hills, and cross- 
ing the Grana torrent at Caraglio 
(7 m.) at the opening of the Val 
Grana (see next Rte. ) 

6 m. W. of Dronero is Saw Dami- 
ano, a commune composed of no 
fewer than fifty-two hamlets. The 
chief of these is finely situated, in the 
lower open part of the Val Maira, 
surrounded by rich cultivation and 
fine trees. 

[Hence the mule path leads in a 
N. W. direction in 5 hrs. to Sampeyre, 
in the Varaita valley, passing over the 
Col de Biron (1,692 m., 5,551 ft.') J 

Above the village the valley con- 
tracts, and speedily assumes the 
character which it maintains for the 
greater part of its length — that of a 
deep narrow trench cut into sedimen- 
tary rocks. The similarity of cha- 
racter between the main valley and 
many of its tributary glens shows that 
their actual form is due to the mode 
of disintegration of the strata through 
which they pass. The torrent of the 
Maira in most places runs in a mere 
cleft at the bottom of the trench, be- 
tween walls of rock nearly vertical, 
so that it is scarcely anywhere acces- 
sible. But the hill-sides above are 
very lovely, especially in the early 
summer. The road leading to Stroppo 



is carried along the steep N. side of 
the valley, and is exposed to the full 
force of the sun in a hot narrow 
valley, so that it is oppressively 
hot in summer, and should be tra- 
versed either in early morning or 
towards evening. 4 m. from San 
Damiano is Alma^ and 3 m. further, 
past the opening of the Albaretto 
glen (see Rte. E), as the valley 
becomes still narrower and wilder, 
is Stroppo (944 m., 3,097 ft.) 

[For the Col della Cavallina to the 
village of Elva see below. J 

Beyond Stroppo, on the S. side of 
the valley, is the opening of the 
Marmora glen, through the S. 
branch of which the Col del Mulo 
leads to Sambuco, or Demonte, in the 
Stura valley, and the Col de Sibolet — 
see next Rte. — to the Val Grana, 
while through the S.W. branch it is 
possible to cross over to Ponte 
Bernardo, in the Stura valley, by the 
Col de Servagno (2,578 m., 8,458 ft.) 
Among debris above Prazzo is found 
the extremely rare Artemisia pede- 
montana. 4 m. beyond Stroppo, and 
28 m. from Cuneo, is Prazzo (1,030 
m -j 3,379 ft.), in a picturesque 
position above the left bank of the 
Maira. 

[Hence the Col della Bicocca 

(2,289 m -> 7o 10 ft-) l ea ds over to 
Casteldelfmo. The ravine descending 
from the pass towards the Val Maira 
is so steep and precipitous as to be 
utterly impassable. For this reason 
the mule paths from Stroppo and 
Prazzo wind respectively over the 
mountain slopes on the E. and W. to 
gain the upper basin, by which the 
Col is attained. The track from 
Stroppo, after a rather long and steep 
ascent, gains the Col della Cavallina 
(2,088 m., 6,851 ft.), very fine views 
being obtained of the higher peaks of 
the Maritime Alps, seen over the 
nearer range separating the Maira 
and Stura valleys. Hence there is a 
gentle descent to the village of Elva 
(2k hrs. from Stroppo), situated in a 
wide and smiling hollow. Silene Val- 
lesia and Saxifraga diapensioides ', with 



46 COTTIAN ALPS. I. § 3. CHAMBEYRON DISTRICT 



other rare plants, are found here- 
abouts. The Elva basin can also be 
gained from Prazzo past San Michele, 
and over the Colle San Michele 
(1,902 m., 6,240 ft.), by a mule path 
which traverses opposite Elva high 
above the right side of the gorge, and 
finally crosses the stream at Chiosso 
(3f hrs. from Prazzo), so as to join 
the direct path coming from Elva. 
It is possible to ascend hence direct 
by a steep track to the Col in i| hr. 
or so, but it is best to follow the path 
which zigzags round the hill-side 
to the E., thus gaining the Col in 
2 hrs. from Elva, 4J-5J hrs. being 
thus required for the ascent from the 
Val Maira. From the Col, near which 
there are remains of old entrench- 
ments, there is a very fine view of the 
S. face of Monte Viso, which rises 
above all intermediate objects in suc- 
cessive tiers of rock and ice slope, 
while the great summits of the Mari- 
time Alps are also seen to the S. To 
the S.W. of the pass is the steep 
peak of the Pelvo d'Elva (3,064 m., 
10,053 ft-)> the ascent of which is 
much recommended, as it is one of 
the most magnificent belvederes in the 
district. Elva is the local name for 
the Pinns Cembra. 1 hr. suffices to 
go from the Col along the undulating 
ridge to the foot of the Pelvo, whence 
2 hrs. more are required by either the 
easy E. face, N.E. ridge, S. face, or 
(the easiest route of all) the high 
S.W. shoulder, to gain the great cairn 
on the summit. No traveller passing 
this way in fine weather should neg- 
lect to make this ascent. By bearing 
to the N. W. from the Col it is easy to 
gain in hr. the principal hamlet 

in the Bellino glen, which is 1 hr. 
from Casteldelfino. But it is shorter 
to descend slightly N. E. through the 
forest direct to Casteldelfino, though 
it is better to take a good path which 
traverses far to the N. E. to the Peyron 
huts, and then zigzags down through 
the forest, the village being thus 
attained in i-|hr. from the pass. J 

Beyond Prazzo the road mounts 
along the left bank of the Maira, I 



passes below the hamlet of Ussolo, 
perched on a rock above, and enters 
a pretty basin, in which is Acceglio 
(1 ',265 m. , 4,150 ft.), the highest 
village of any size in the Val Maira. 
It is 4 m. from Prazzo, or 32 m. from 
Cuneo. 

Many passes lead from the head of 
the Val Maira in various directions. 
To the S.W. the Col della Scaletta 
gives access to Argentera, in the Stura 
valley, while to the W. the Cols des 
Monges and de Sautron (all three 
noticed in Rte. A) lead to Larche, in 
the Ubayette valley. The Col della 
I Gippiera, on the N.W. between the 
| Brec and Aiguille de Chambeyron 
(both summits may be ascended hence), 
to St. Paul sur Ubaye, is described in 
Rte. B, and the Colletta di Chiapera 
to Casteldelfino by the Bellino glen 
in Rte. C, as well as the Col de Roure 
to Maljasset. The Col de Vers 
(2,860 m., 9,384 ft.) leads to the 
Bellino glen, and so to Casteldelfino 
(8 hrs.) The Col de Slroppia, or della 
Ahibiera (2,842 m. , 9,325 ft.), is, 
however, the most direct way (6 J hrs. ) 
to St. Paul sur Ubaye, as it descends 
through the Fouillouze glen, while 
similarly the Col de Mary, or de 
Maurtn (2,654 m., 8,708 ft.), is the 
best route (for it is traversed by a mule 
track) from Acceglio to Maljasset. 
The way mounts the Val Maira to 
the houses of Sareflo, and then turns 
N.W. with the Maira stream, which 
is followed, gradually bearing due N. , 
past many chalets. At those of Gar- 
detta (2,153 m -j 7>°64 ft-) the way to 
the Colletta di Chiapera branches off 
to the N.E., while higher up on the 
way to our pass there is a military 
shelter hut near the small lake of 
Sagro del Colle. The Col de Mary 
is attained in about 5 hrs. from 
Acceglio, and thence 2 hrs. or less 
suffice to reach Maljasset. The mule 
path runs through the broad Combe 
de Mary direct to that village, the 
tracks from the Col de Marinet on 
the W. (at the foot of the Aiguille de 
Chambeyron) and the Col de Roure 
on the N.E. falling in on the way. 



ROUTE E. VAL GRANA 47 



Route E. 

CUNEO TO THE STURA OR MAIRA 
VALLEYS BY THE VAL GRANA. 

Steam tramway to Caraglio ; char 
road to Castelmagno ; mule paths 
thence. 

The Val Grana is a deep indenta- 
tion in the range which separates the 
valleys of the Stura and the Maira, 
not penetrating, however, to the 
watershed of the Alpine chain, from 
which that range projects. At the 
head of the valley, where the ridges 
that enclose it on either side converge, 
there is a slight depression, the Col 
de Pra Giordan (called on the Italian 
map Colle Vdllonetto) (2,425 m., 
7,956 ft.), which leads to the plain 
of the Col del Mzclo, 2,401 m., 
7,87% ft. (see Rte. A), whence it is 
easy to descend either to Demonte 
or Sambuco, in the Stura valley, on 
the S., or to Prazzo, in Val Maira, 
on the N. About 7 hrs. suffice to 
reach either village from Castel- 
magno, the highest hamlet in the 
Val Grana. But this route is here 
mentioned as merely a topographical 
curiosity, for, as will be seen below, 
there are more direct passes from the 
Val Grana to the two neighbouring 
glens. 

From Cuneo the steam tramway 
towards Dronero (see last Rte.) is 
followed as far as Caraglio (7 m.) 
on the Grana stream. Hence the 
carriage road runs W. up the Val 
Grana, first on one, then on the other 
bank of that torrent. In 3 m. the 
chief hamlet, Valgrana, is passed, 
and 3 m. further is the village of 
Monterosso. 

[Hence a mule path runs S. over 
the Col delV Ortiga (1,768 m., 
5,801 ft.) to Demonte, in the Stura 
valley, in 4J hrs. 3 

• All this lower portion of the Val 
Grana is exceedingly picturesque and 
well wooded. Perhaps the prettiest 
spot in the valley is the village of 



Pradleves (816 m., 2,677 ft.), which 
is 3 m. beyond Monterosso, and is 
reached through a very thickly 
wooded glen. A pretty wooded 
and winding glen leads on up the 
main valley to the narrow and very 
striking gorge of Castelmagno, the 
hamlet of that name (1,150 rru, 
3,773 ft.) hanging on the hill-side, 
being 5 m. from Pradleves, or 21 m. 
from Cuneo. Here the char road 
comes to an end. The valley above 
is barren and desolate. Below the 
Sanctuary of San Magrio, 1,780 m., 
5,840 ft. (the saint was one of the 
Theban Legion), the paths divide 
(if hr. from Castelmagno), that to 
the left (W. ) going on towards the 
Colle Vallonetto. Our track climbs 
steeply up to the Sanctuary, passes 
N. W. over rolling pastures to a green 
basin, and then mounts by a rocky 
barrier to an upper basin, at the head 
of which, and reached by stones and a 
zigzag path, is the Col de Sibolet, 
2,561 m., 8,403 ft. (2 hrs. from the 
bifurcation). On it there is a small 
lake. The view includes all the 
Chambeyron peaks and some of the 
Maritime Alps, as well as the Sanc- 
tuary of San Magno. 

[By bearing N. just before reaching 
the pass a path is gained which crosses 
the Col Intersile (2,523 m., 8,278 ft.), 
and descends by a good path on the 
left side of the A Ibaretto glen to Alma, 
in the Val Maira. J 

A steep descent leads due W. 
down to the mule path in the Mar- 
mora glen, coming direct from Sam- 
buco by the Col del Mulo (f hr.) 
The upper part of this glen is un- 
interesting. The mule path passes 
through Veimetti or Marmora, at the 
junction of the two arms of the valley 
(ijhr.), opposite Canosio, in the S. W. 
arm, and in a short hour more through 
a pretty gorge attains the Val Mai?'a, 
f hr.'s walk up which brings the 
traveller to Prazzo, which is thus 
attained in about 7 hrs. from Castel- 
magno. 



48 COTTIAN ALPS. I. §4. VISO DISTRICT 



SECTION 4. 

VISO DISTRICT. 

In the Introduction to this Chapter 
Monte Viso was compared to the 
salient angle of a bastion projecting 
from the main watershed of the Alps 
towards the plain of Piedmont. This 
angle is so extremely sharp that, if a 
circle be drawn round the mountain, 
more than seven-eighths of the cir- 
cumference will lie on the side of 
Piedmont, while less than one-eighth 
will be included in the narrow valley 
of the Guil. The peak towers up in 
a singularly solitary fashion, and is 
therefore well seen from the Pied- 
montese plain and elsewhere, so that 
one is not surprised to learn that it is 
perhaps the single peak mentioned 
expressly by the writers of classical 
antiquity, while the name ' Vesulus ' 
or ' Viso ' has been explained by the 
fact that it is visible so far away. It 
rises a little S.E. of the main water- 
shed, and it is noteworthy that many 
other of the great peaks of the 
S.W. Alps stand also apart from that 
watershed, e.g. the Punta dell' Ar- 
gentera, the Aiguille de Chambeyron, 
the Ecrins, and the other summits of 
the Pelvoux Group, the Grande 
Casse, Mont Pourri, Charbonel, 
Ciamarella, Grand Paradis, Grivola, 
&c. The Viso is connected with 
the watershed by a range of shat- 
tered peaks, which include the two 
summits of the Visolotfo, and the 
Punta Gastaldi, or Vzsoulet, the 
exact point of junction being just N. 
of the last-named peak. Hence the 
Viso is a wholly Italian mountain, 
and it is misleading to speak, as has 
been done, of its French slope. The 
E. face fronts the valley of the Po, 
and the W. face overlooks the head 
of the Vallante valley, the S. face 
(that usually ascended) rising above 
the Forciolline glen of the last-named 



valley. The N. face is divided into 
two facets as it were, the N.W. of 
which dominates the head of the 
valley of the Guil, and the N.E. that 
of the Po at its source. More pre- 
cise topographical details will be 
found in Rte. C. below. The peak 
itself is composed of hornblendic and 
other green schists, the summit being 
a glaucophane schist ; but with these 
serpentine and euphotide are asso- 
ciated, and it is possible that the 
whole mass consists of igneous rocks 
intrusive in the older mica schists 
and gneiss, their schistose structure 
being due to pressure. Monte Viso 
is the culminating point of a long 
ridge, which runs S.E. from the main 
watershed, and separates, the Varaita 
and upper Po valleys, which, to- 
gether with that range, form the 
subject of the present Section. 

A summary of the history, &c. , of 
the Viso up to the end of 1881 is 
given in Mr. Coolidge's monograph 
on the peak in the tenth volume of 
the ' Alpine Journal,' which needs to 
be supplemented by Signor G. Rey's 
account (in the 1887 £ Bollettino ' of 
the Italian Alpine Club) of the con- 
venient route he discovered in 1887 
up the E. face of the peak. Further 
information may be sought in Signor 
Isaia's ' Al Monviso per Val di Po 
e Val di Varaita' (Turin, 1874), 
though more recent explorations have 
caused certain portions of this work 
to be out of date. For the most 
interesting history of the fifteenth- 
century tunnel under the Col de la 
Traversette (sometimes called the 
' Col du Viso ') Signor L. Vaccarone's 
admirable historical monograph 4 Le 
Pertuis du Viso ' (Turin, 1881) should 
be consulted, particularly the ap- 
pendix of original documents, a 
model work of its kind. 

Crissolo is the best headquarters 
for explorers of the Viso, as it has 
now a fair inn and guides, and i3 
close to the foot of the peak. Castel- 
delfino does not possess the former 
two requisites, while Abries lacks the 
last-named. 



ROUTE A. SALUZZO TO GUILLESTRE 



49 



Route A. 

SALUZZO TO GUILLESTRE BY THE 
VAL VARAITA. 

Steam tramway to Venasca ; car- 
riage road to Casteldelfmo ; thence 
mule paths or foot paths with a char 
road at the end. 

The three bustling little Italian 
towns of Cuneo, Saluzzo, and Pinerolo 
are built on the W. edge of the Pied- 
montese plain, so as to command one 
or more of the valleys descending from 
the main ridge of the Alps. Saluzzo 
itself is rather nearer the mouth of 
the upper valley of the Po than that 
of the Val Varaita, but, as the former 
valley is now most easily approached 
from Turin without passing through 
Saluzzo (see Rte. B), Saluzzo (French 
Saluces) may be best included in the 
present Rte. It is close to the foot 
of the great ridge on which rises 
Monte Viso, and which descends 
from the main watershed of the Alps, 
and it is placed midway between the 
streams of the Varaita and the Po, 
which issue from the two valleys on 
either side of that ridge. It is 38 m. 
from Turin via Airasca (on the 
Pinerolo railway, § 5. Rte. A), and 
42 m. via Savigliano, on the Cuneo 
line (the journey in each case taking 
2.\ hrs. ), while it is the centre of 
many steam tramways. 

To reach the opening of the Val 
Varaita the line runs S. from Saluzzo 
to Verzuolo and Costigliole, along the 
base of the range between the two 
valleys named above, and then bends 
to the W. to Fiasco, to which there is 
a shorter direct carriage road from 
Saluzzo past Villanovetta. 4 m. 
beyond Piasco is Ve?iasca, where the 
tramway line ends (10J m.) Here a 
glimpse of the Viso is obtained. The 
carriage road crosses to the left bank 
of the Varaita, and begins to ascend. 
On the N.W. near Brossasco (2 m. 
from Venasca) is seen the opening of 
the Girba glen, by which Paesana, in 
the valley of the Po, may be gained 
in 6 hrs. by the Col di Girda (1,525m., 
I. 



5,003 ft.) The road crosses and re- 
crosses the Varaita several times 
before reaching Sosnpeyre, 980 m., 
3,215 ft. (11 m. from Venasca), the 
principal place in the valley (about 
6,000 inhabitants), which is made up 
of many scattered hamlets. (For the 
Col de Biron to San Damiano, in the 
Val Maira, see § 3. Rte. D. ) The 
Val Varaita presents a marked con- 
trast to the neighbouring Val Maira 
(§ 3. Rte. D), being comparatively 
wide and open, with level ground by 
the river, well planted with walnuts ; 
while the mountains on either side 
are of more gentle inclination, and 
covered with pine forests, that here 
and there give way to bright green 
pastures. Some way beyond Sam- 
peyre the hamlet of Villar is left on 
the hill-side to the right. It was 
formerly strongly fortified, so as to 
defend the upper valley, which (there 
is a hamlet close by still called Con- 
fine) was held by France, till by the 
Treaty of Utrecht, 17 13, the French 
valleys of Casteldelfmo (Chateau 
Dauphin), Fenestrelles, and Exilles 
were exchanged for the Savoyard 
valley of Barcelonnette, the Alpine 
watershed thus becoming the political, 
as it is the natural, frontier between 
France and Savoy. The valley below 
Villar (part of the marquessate of 
Saluzzo) was held by the French (like 
that of Crissolo) from 1529 to 1588, 
and obtained in 1601 by Savoy from 
France in exchange for Bresse, Bugey, 
and Gex. 6 m. beyond Sampeyre, 
and 29^ m. from Saluzzo, is the large 
village of 

Casteldelfino, or Chateau Dauphin 
(1,296 m. , 4,252 ft.), which takes its 
name from the fourteenth-century 
castle of the old Dauphins (now 
ruined — it commands a fine view of 
the Viso, not seen from the village), 
a few minutes above and to the 
W. of the village, on a rock at the 
angle between the two branches into 
which the Val Varaita here divides. 
The more westerly of these, the 
Bellhio glen, with the passes leading 
from it, has been noticed in § 3. 

E 



,50 COTTIAN ALPS. I. § 4. VISO DISTRICT 



Routes C and D, as well as the Col 
della Bicocca and the Pelvo d'Elva, 
just S. of the village. In this Section 
we have to describe only those 
through the N.W. or main branch of 
the Varaita valley, which is separated 
from the other by a ridge descending 
E. from the Grand Rubren. 

[Casteldelfino was the starting point 
for several of the early ascents of the 
Viso, and the Club hut at its S. foot 
may be gained hence in about 5 hrs. 
by way of the Forciolline glen of the 
Vallante valley (see under 2. below). 
But Crissolo is now generally selected 
as headquarters for this expedition, 
and, with the exception of the ascent 
of the fine peak of the Pelvo cTElva, 
3,064 m., 10,053 ft. (§ 3. Rte. D), 
there is nothing to detain a traveller 
at Casteldelfino. Any one, however, 
minutely exploring the Cottians is 
bound to halt here, as the village is the 
starting point for a very great number 
of passes leading to the Po valley and 
the Yal Maira, and as well as to 
the valleys of the Ubaye and the 
Guil. (See § 3. Rtes. C and D, and 
Rte. B. below. )3 

The scenery of the lower part of the 
N. W. or main branch of the Val Varaita 
(sometimes called ' Val di Chianale ' ) 
is very pleasing, with bright green 
pastures enclosed between wooded 
slopes, but the ridge enclosing the 
head of the valley is nearly bare. The 
pleasantest way is by the path on the 
E. side of the glen, which after a steep 
ascent passes through meadows, and 
is joined by the main track (along the 
other bank of the Varaita) near the 
picturesque hamlet of Castelponte, 
1,597 m., 5,340 ft. (1 hr.), perched 
high above the Varaita valley, and at 
the entrance to the Vallante glen. 
For here this N.W. branch of the 
Varaita valley splits into two glens — 
that of Vallante, running due N. along 
the W. foot of the Viso to the Col de 
Vallante, and the main glen, which 
continues in a N.W. direction towards 
La Chianale. Each of these must be 
described separately, though it is 
most convenient to include them in 



the same Rte., since, with the single 
exception of the Col de Longet to the 
Ubaye valley, all the passes from 
either glen lead sooner or later to the 
Guil valley, and so to Guillestre. 

1. By La Chianale. — The mule 
track mounts along the left bank of 
the Varaita past Ponte Chianale, 
1,661 m., 5,450 ft. (the chief hamlet 
is La Maddalena), to La Chia?iale 
(1,799 m - , 5,902 ft.), the highest 
hamlet in the valley (f hr. , or 2 \ hrs. 
from Casteldelfino). On the way is 
seen the Tele des Toillies, 3,179 m., 
10,430 ft. ( § 3. Rte. B), which rises 
in a fine rock tower at the meeting 
point of the Varaita, Ubaye, and 
St. Veran glens. The higher or E. 
peak (3,396 m., 11,142 ft.) of the 
Grand Rubren is also visible. 
1 At or near La Chianale a number 
j of mountain glens unite, so that from 
\ this spot many passes may be made 
I in various directions (several traversed 
I by mule paths), which can be only 
briefly noticed here, with the excep- 
tion of that which is most frequented, 
the Col delF Agnello. 

(a) To the St. Veran Glen. — Two 
passes lead over in 4^ hrs. to the 
village of St. Veran (§ 3. Rte. B. 4), 
the Col Blanchet, or della Niera 
(2,897 m., 9,505 ft.), and the Col de 
St. Veran (2, 844 m. ,9,331 ft. ), which 
pass S. and N. respectively of the 
Rocca Biaiica (3,054 m., 10,020 ft.) 
Either may be reached in 2 -J hrs. from 
La Chianale, the way, especially for 
the second pass, being for long iden- 
tical with that to the Col de Longet 
(§ 3. Rte. C. 2. to the Ubaye valley), 
which is finally left on the S. The 
former pass (which owes one of its 
names to the white rocks which form 
its crest) is the more attractive to the 
mountaineer, as from it the Rocca 
Bianca can be gained in a few minutes, 
or (better still) the Tete des Toillies 
in 1 hr., the view from the latter 
being especially fine. On the other 
side the tracks from the Cols La 
Noire and de la Cula (§ 3. Rte. B. 4) 
are soon joined. 

(b) To the Head of the Guil Valley. 



ROUTE A. SALUZZO TO GUILLESTRE 



5* 



— Half an hour above La Chianale 
the fine pasture glen of Soustra joins 
the Varaita valley. Two passes lead 
in 3 hrs. from its upper end to the 
very head of the Guil valley, where 
the route from the Col de Vallante 
(2. below) is joined — the Col de 
Ruines (3,053 m., 10,017 ft.), and 
the Col de Soustra (also called the Col 
de la Lauzetie, or Col de Ristolas), 
2,854 m., 9,364 ft. Pastures extend 
high on the Italian slope of both Cols, 
but the descent on the French side 
from the former is by a narrow stone - 
filled gully, with a pear-shaped tarn 
at its base ; while from the second 
pass snow, rocks, and grass are suc- 
cessively traversed. 

[From or near the Col de Soustra 
the ascent of the splendid belvedere 
of the Pointe Joanne, or Cima di 
Losetta (3,054 m., 10,020 ft.) may 
be made with great ease {i\ hr. 
from the very head of the Guil valley 
by its N.W. ridge or face, or 2± 
hrs. from La Chianale direct). The 
easiest way up is from the Col di 
Lcsetta (2,857 m., 9,374 ft.), to the 
S.W., the Col de Vallante being 
gained either direct from the summit 
or from this Col by a steep rock 
descent in 40 min. ; from the Losetta 
pass a small path leads S. to a point 
far down the Vallante glen. J 

(c) To the Agnel Glen. —Midway 
between the Longet glen on the 
N.W., and the Soustra glen on the 
N.E., the most frequented mule track 
mounts nearly due N. from La 
Chianale to the Col dell' Agnello, 
2,744 m., 9,003 ft. (2 J hrs.) After 
having passed first the opening of the 
Loi.get glen on the left, then that of 
Soustra on the right, the mule track 
zigzags up the hill-side through a 
scattered pine wood, and, following 
the course of an upland grassy valley, 
mounts the slopes at its head to the 
pass, the more southerly and lower of 
two depressions (the other is the Col 
Vieux d 'Agnello). The view of the 
Viso, the Chambeyron peaks, and the 
lofty summits of the Dauphin e Alps 
is extremely fine. The pass has fre- 



quently been crossed by armies, and 
\ is now much used by the Piedmontese 
workmen, who seek work in France 
daring the winter, and return home in 
the spring. 

A gentle descent of J hr. or so on 
! the French side leads to one of the 
'Refuges Napoleon,' called 'Refuge 
Agnel' (2,498 m., 8,196 ft.), which 
was formerly a rough kind of little 
inn, and convenient as a starting point 
for several expeditions in the neigh- 
bouring ranges, but is now reserved 
for military purposes. 

[Half an hour away to the N.E. is 
j the Col Vieux (2,738 m., 8,983 ft.), 
\ which may also be gained by a 
traverse direct from the Col dell' 
Agnello. From the pass the ascent 
(either by the N.W. or S.W. faces or 
ridge) of the Pain de Sticre (3,202 m. , 
10,506 ft.) may be effected in less 
than an hour ; the summit is crowned 
I by a great cairn, and commands a 
very extensive panorama, so that this 
detour is much recommended, es- 
pecially as this, like either of the two 
following ascents, can be taken on 
the way to Abries. A longer climb 
from the Col Vieux is that of the 
Grande Aiguillette (3,297 m., 
10,817 ft-) 5 accessible in 2J hrs. by 
traversing to the Breche de Ruines, 
2,850 m., 9,351 ft. (whence the 
chalets of that name in the Guil 
valley are easily reached), and thence 
past the lake of the same name attain- 
ing the W. ridge of the peak along 
which the huge cairn on the summit is 
gained ; it is possible to effect a 
rough descent across the head of the 
Soustra glen to the Col de Soustra 
(ij hr.) The view from the summit is 
remarkable as extending from the 
Maritime Alps to Monte Rosa. 

From the Col Vieux there is a 
rough but very striking and quaint, 
descent by a stony footpath past the 
Foreant and Egourgeou lakes, then 
through a forest and past the grassy 
basin in which are the Medille chalets, 
to the Guil valley (2J hrs.), which is 
reached at the bridge opposite La 
. Chalp, on the Col de la Traversette 

E 2 



52 COTTIAN ALPS. I. 



§ 4. VISO DISTRICT 



route (Rte. B. below), and about 
I J hr. from Abries. The way down 
this wild glen from the Col Vieux 
passes at the W. foot of the gaunt 
smooth slate walls of the Roche 
Taillante (3,200 m., 10,499 ft.); its 
N. and highest point can be climbed 
in if-2 hrs. from the Egourgeou lake, 
1 hr. below the Col Vieux, by a deep 
and well-marked notch — reached from 
the N. — in the great W. buttress of 
the peak, and debris gullies between 
smooth slate slabs. (The S. and 
lower point is accessible in \\ hr. 
Dy a very sharp ridge. ) This ascent 
and the peak generally may rank 
among the oddest in the Alps. It 
may be of use to mention that from 
the Foreant lake, \ hr. below the 
Col Vieux, there is a pass across the 
ridge on the N.W., the Col du F0710I 
de Segure, between the points marked 
2,903 m. and 3,006 m. on the French 
map ; it is perfectly easy, and by it a 
traveller may go in about 2\ hrs. from 
the lake to Ristolas, 40 min. above 
Abries. 3 

From the Refuge Agnel the well- 
marked mule path descends by a 
uniform gentle slope above the right 
bank of the stream in the grassy 
Agnel glen to Fongillarde (2 hrs. from 
the Col dell' Agnello), where is the 
French custom house. The way 
would be monotonous if it were not 
relieved by fine distant views of the 
great Dauphine peaks. From Fon- 
gillarde a char road leads steeply down 
in J hr. (2 J m. ) to the village of 
Mo lines, at the junction of the Agnel 
glen with the St. Veran glen (§ 3. 
Rte. B. 4). It is 3 m. more by road 
to Ville Vieille, in the Guil valley 
(Rte. B. below), which is but 2 m. 
above Chateau Queyras, or 14 m. 
above Guillestre. 

In a gorge on the left, just before 
the commencement of the steep 
descent to Ville Vieille, the traveller 
should notice some fine specimens of 
what are called 'earth pillars,' or 
£ colonnes coiffees,' such as may also 
be seen in the Escreins glen, near 
Guillestre (§ 3. Rte. B. 1), in that of 



Fournel, near l'Argentiere, in the 
Durance valley, near Useigne in the 
Val d'Herens, at Oberbotzen, and 
elsewhere in the Alps. In some of 
these cases the pinnacles have been 
produced by the disintegration of 
superficial deposits of clay and 
detritus, which, when protected from 
rain by large blocks of stone resting 
on the original surface, gradually form 
pinnacles, each of them capped by 
the block to which it owes its forma- 
tion. In the present instance, how- 
ever, they seem to be formed of a 
friable limestone, remaining in situ 
where covered by erratic blocks of 
gabbro, and washed away in the 
interstices. 

2. By the Vallante Glen. — Unlike 
the Chianale basin this glen is very 
narrow throughout, and communicates 
with the Guil valley by but a single 
pass, the Col de Vallante, at its ex- 
treme head. The scenery of the 
Vallante glen is throughout very fine, 
though extremely wild and savage. 
From Castelponte the path mounts 
above the right bank of the torrent, 
and crosses to the left bank opposite 
the opening of the Giargiatte glen (for 
the Passo di San Chiaffredo, see 
Rte. D. I. b), 20 min. beyond which 
(1 hr. from Castelponte) are the 
the Sou lieres chalets (1,937 m. , 6,355 
ft.), those of Chardonney being just 
across the Forciolline stream. These 
huts are situated at the opening of 
the stony and steep Forciolline glen, 
through which the Club hut at the S. 
foot of the Viso, and the Passo delle 
Sagnette to Crissolo (Rte. C. 3. below, 
and Rte. D. I. a), can be reached 
by a bad track, and one hard to find, 
in about 3-4 hrs. from the Soulieres 
huts. Near these chalets many rare 
plants may be found, e.g. Campanula 
Allionii, Senecio Balbisiantts, Eu- 
phrasia lanceolata ; while higher up 
are Primula marginata, Ranu7tculus 
pyrenceus, and many others. The 
ascent from the huts to the Col de 
Vallante lies through the rocky valley 
on the W. or right bank of the stream. 
As the traveller advances the valley 



ROUTE A. SALUZZO TO GUILLESTRE 



53 



becomes narrowed to a mere gorge, 
the path disappears, and the last part 
of the ascent is made by the left 
side of the glen and a steep couloir, 
partly filled with snow, which ter- 
minates abruptly on the snow-covered 
ridge forming the Col de Vallante 
(2,825 m., 9,269 ft.), 2-3 hrs. from 
Soulieres. 

[For the Pointe Joanne and the 
Col di Losetta on the S.W. , see 
above, I. b. and for the Col du Viso- 
lotto, N.W. of the Visolotto, leading to 
the Piano del Re inn, see next Rte. 
The ascent of the Viso itself from the 
glacier between it and the Visolotto is 
noticed is Rte. C. 3. 

Corresponding to the Pointe Joanne 
on the W. of the pass is the Punta 
Gastaldi, or Visoulet (3,269 m. , 
10,726 ft.), on the E. The N. and 
lower top of the last-named mountain 
marks the junction of the great spur 
on which rises the Viso with the main 
ridge. The Punta itself may be 
climbed in about I- 1 J hr. from the 
pass by gaining the frontier ridge at 
its foot, and then climbing across the 
W. face beneath some steep reddish 
pinnacles. The view is fine, though 
the spectator is too close under the 
Viso to properly appreciate that mag- 
nificent peak.] 

The descent on the French side of 
the col lies down a steep snow slope 
and rocks. Some way down, at the 
foot of the final slope, the little Lestio 
lake is passed in a flat, nearly level 
basin, and in 1 hr. or less from the 
pass the old Club hut, called the 
' Refuge des Lyonnais,' one of the 
highest chalets in the uppermost 
hollow of the Guil valley, above the 
right bank of that stream, and on the 
left bank of the Faiteau torrent, 
descending from the Col de la Traver- 
sette, is attained. On the way the 
routes to the Col de Soustra (above, 
1. b) on the W., and those to the 
Cols Isaia and del Colour del Porco 
on the E. (see next Rte. ), are passed. 
From the chalets it is only necessary 
to follow the track above the right 
bank cf the Guil, the path from the 



Col de la Traversette being joined at 
the conspicuous solitary larch tree. 
Soon after (f hr. from the Refuge) the 
bee inning of the char road is reached , 
by which Abries (19J m. above Guil- 
lestre by road, see next Rte.) is 
gained in 2J-3 hrs. more.. 

It is quite easy to traverse N. 
over stony slopes from the Col de 
Vallante to the Col del Colour del 
Porco, or the Col de la Traversette, 
without descending to the level of the 
Guil, while on the Italian side it is easy 
to gain the Col du Visolotto, between 
the Visolotto and the Punta Gastaldi. 



Route. B. 

TURIN OR SALUZZO TO GUILLESTRE 
BY THE VALLEY OF THE PO. 

Railway to Barge or Saluzzo ; car- 
riage road to Crissolo ; mule path 
(save upper bit of Col) to Guil valley, 
whence char road to Guillestre. 

It was pointed out at the beginning 
of the last Rte. that, though Saluzzo 
is nearer the mouth of the upper 
valley of the Po than that of the 
Val Varaita, yet the best way of 
reaching Crissolo, at the head of the 
Po valley, from Turin does not now 
pass Saluzzo. 

The quickest way from Turin is to 
take the line by Pinerolo towards 
Torre Pellice (§ 5. Rte. A) as far as 
Bricherasio (29J m., 1J-2 hrs.), 
whence a branch line leads in 8 m. 
more (25 min.) to Barge, from which 
place a picturesque road, through 
wooded hills, and over the Colletta 
(650 m., 2,133 gives access in 

4 m. to Paesana. 

[A traveller coming from Saluzzo 
direct takes the steam tramway for 

5 m. to Revello, whence it is 13 m. 
by carriage road to Paesana, past 
the small town of Sanfront.^ 

Paesana is the chief place in the 
upper valley of the Po, and hence 



54 COTTIAN ALPS. I. § 4. VISO DISTRICT 



the easy Col di Girba (1,525 m., 
5,003 ft.) leads over in 6 hrs. to 
Brossasco, in the Val Varaita (see 
Rte. A). 

Above Paesana the scenery of the 
valley itself is very fine, while the 
peak of the Viso becomes a more and 
more imposing object whenever it 
comes into view. Nearly half-way to 
Crissolo the Lenta, flowing from the 
S.W., from its source in some small 
lakes under the Viso, joins the Po. 
On the mountain-side, in the angle 
between the Lenta and the Po, is 
the finely situated village of Oncino 
(1,211 m., 3,973 ft.), which com- 
mands a noble view. (It is reached 
from the Po valley by some steep zig- 
zags through a fine beech forest, and 
thence there is a path high up on the 
hill-side to Crissolo. For the passes 
from Oncino to the Val Varaita, see 
Rte. D. 1). 

The road to Crissolo keeps always 
to the left bank of the Po, the scenery 
in the valley changing its character 
above the junction with the Lenta. 
The chestnut trees which have 
hitherto shaded the road disappear 
as it enters a wild gorge, whence it 
emerges upon green meadows, bor- 
dered by willows and alders. Beyond 
the hamlet of Ostana the Po is joined 
by the Tossiet stream, which has run 
for some distance nearly parallel to 
it, being separated by a rocky mass 
crowned by the imposing Sanctuary 
of San Chiaffredo. The road skirts 
along the S. base of this spur, and 
soon (6 m. from Paesana) reaches the 
main hamlet of 

Crissolo (1,333 m., 4,374 ft.), 
the best headquarters for a moun- 
taineer in the Viso district, by reason 
of its position, its inns, and its 
guides. It is also an excellent station 
for the botanist, many rare species 
being found in the immediate neigh- 
bourhood, especially on the moun- 
tain slopes N. of the village. Amongst 
others Campanula elatines, Vicia 
onobryckoides, Saxifragra diapensi- 
oides, and Sedum alsinefolium may 
be mentioned. 



[The Po valley is very narrow, 
and most of the hamlet is on the left 
bank, woods coming quite down to 
the right bank. But the mountaineer 
will prefer to go on to the inn on the 
Piano del Re, after he has visited the 
two sights of Crissolo itself. 

One is the aforesaid Sanctuary of 
San Chiaffredo (1,412 m., 4,633 ft.), 
which may be reached in 10-15 min. 
from the piazza of the village by a 
good mule path. It dates from 
1444, when the bones of the saint 
(one of the Theban Legion) were 
miraculously discovered, but the 
present edifice was built in 155 1, 
after the old one had been destroyed 
by the Huguenots. It consists of a 
long plain range of buildings, facing 
S., with a terrace in front, at the 
further end of which is the church, 
filled with ex-votos, and adorned 
with some poor frescoes. If pos- 
sible, a traveller should visit this 
spot in mid - September, on the 
feast day of the saint, when 
throngs of pilgrims, in picturesque 
garb, wend their way from afar to 
this shrine. But to other than pil- 
grims the glorious view of the Viso 
(invisible from Crissolo itself) from 
! the Sanctuary will outweigh all other 
considerations. From few other so 
accessible points can this magnificent 
summit be better seen as it towers 
up in all its splendour and symmetry 
of form above the forests and broad 
bare downs, which serve it as a 
pedestal. 

In the crystalline schists are some 
extensive masses of dolomite, inter- 
stratified with comparatively pure 
limestone. In one of these layers of 
dolomite is the celebrated Caverna 
del Rio Martino, which no traveller 
should neglect to visit. The entrance 
may be reached in about 20 min. 
from Crissolo, by a path mounting 
towards the W. Access to the 
cavern has been much facilitated by 
operations carried out by the Italian 
Alpine Club. A narrow passage 
leads to a spacious hall, beyond 
which are several others, lined with 



ROUTE B. TURIN OR SALUZZO TO GUILLESTRE 55 



stalactites, to which various fanciful 
names have been given, while the 
cavern is closed by a fine waterfall 
thundering into a lake, contained in a 
hollow of white marble. The cavern is 
about 600 m. (1,969 ft.) in length, the 
mean width and height being about 
10 m. (33 ft.) The interior can be 
seen to perfection only by brilliant 
illumination, and the traveller will 
do well to have it lighted up by 
Bengal lights or magnesium wire, 
which are provided by the guides. 
Various marvellous stories as to the 
origin and history of the cavern are 
current among the natives. It is 
needless to say that it is merely a 
specimen of a class of phenomena 
common in most limestone districts. 

The ascent of Mont Frioland 
(2,720 m., 8,924 ft.), N. of Crissolo, 
can be made in 4 hrs. or so through 
the Tossiet glen, mainly by grass 
slopes, and the panorama it com- 
mands is most splendid. (See Rte. D. 
2. d.) 

For the passes from Crissolo to 
the Varaita and Pellice valleys, see 
Rte. D, while in Rte. C will be 
found all particulars as to the ascent 
of Monte Viso. 3 

The mule path up the valley 
mounts above the left bank of the Po, 
and passes through several hamlets, 
and below that of Borgo, the white 
church tower of which is very con- 
spicuous from Crissolo itself. A turn 
in the valley conceals that village, 
and the Viso Mozzo, 3,018 m., 
9,902 ft. (see below), though only 
the footstool of the monarch, be- 
comes the chief object in view. The 
valley becomes thoroughly Alpine in 
character, huge blocks, fallen from 
the mountains on either side, or borne 
down by the glacier which once filled 
the valley, being strewn around in 
wild confusion. In the midst is the 
small plain of Melezet, the name of 
which preserves the memory of the 
larches which have long since 
vanished, while a short distance 
above is the Piano Fiorenza, a small 
grassy plain, the filled-up bed of an 



ancient lake, which in summer pro- 
duces a rich variety of Alpine plants. 
The Viso now comes into sight in all 
its majesty, supported by the Viso- 
lotto on the right and the Viso Mozzo 
on the left. The ascent becomes 
steeper, the path mounting in zigzags 
past the first waterfall of the infant 
Po. Amongst the debris and the 
crevices of the rocks Cardamine 
thalictroides may be found. Above 
these zigzags the traveller attains the 
Piano del Re, an irregular plain 
of some size, covered with stone- 
strewn grass, above the dark bare 
rocks of which, interspersed with 
patches of verdure, the E. face of 
the Viso rises very grandly. It 
does not present the appearance of 
a continuous wall of rock, but of a 
rocky pyramid, seamed by a great 
snow couloir, and ending in an over- 
hanging glacier, to the N. of which a 
range of shattered towers and pinna- 
cles, with many intervening gaps and 
chasms, decreasing gradually in 
height, leads the eye round towards 
the Col de la Traversette. These 
towers and gaps are named as follows, 
reckoning N. from the Viso itself : 
the MatWy the Visolotto, the Col du 
Visolotto, the Punta Gastaldi, the 
Col del Colour del Porco, the Roccie 
Fozirioun, the Col Isaia, and the 
Mojzte di Marte, just N. of which is 
the Col de la Traversette, with the 
' Pertuis du Viso ' pierced below it. 
On a mound in the Piano del Re is 
the small ' Albergo Alpino,' 2,041 m., 
6,697 ft. (2 hrs. from Crissolo by 
mule path), which affords quarters 
that no mountaineer should despise, 
and is the best starting point for the 
ascent of most of the neighbouring 
peaks. 

The name of the Piano del Re has 
been said to be derived from a visit 
of Victor Emmanuel II., but is much 
more likely due to the fact that it was 
often the site of the camps of troops 
which passed through the Pertuis 
du Viso from the fifteenth century 
onwards. 

[A few minutes W. of the inn is 



56 



COTTIAN ALPS. I. 



§ 4. VISO DISTRICT 



the Source of the Po (2,019 m -? 
6,624 ft.), a fine spring welling up 
between two great boulders, and 
issuing from underneath a huge mass 
of debris, so that ultimately it pro- 
bably comes from the overhanging 
glacier, the butt end of which appears 
as a high ice cliff between the Viso 
and the Visolotto. \ hr. from the inn, 
and reached by a zigzag path to the 
S., is the little Fiorenza lake (2,108 
m., 6,916 ft.) — quite distinct from the 
plain of the same name passed on the 
way up from Crissolo — on which there 
is a row boat. It is worth while to 
mount still further to the S. over 
many stones, and past the Chiaretto 
lake, to the wide depression of the 
Col dei Viso, 2,6^2, m., 8,704 ft. 
(2§-3 hrs. from the inn), between 
the Viso on the W., and the Viso 
Mozzo (3,018 m., 9,902 ft.) on the E. 
The latter summit, a very fine view- 
point, may hence be ascended over 
easy stone slopes in about I hr. From 
the Col it is a very short distance 
down on the other side to the Lago 
Grande di Viso (2,593 m., 8,507 ft.), 
on the way from the Passo delle 
Sagnette and the Viso to Crissolo, 
this village being reached in about 
3 hrs. from the pass. This round, 
much recommended to good walkers, 
and free from any difficulty whatsoever, 
is known at Crissolo as the ' Giro dei 
Laghi.' 

Apart from the ascent of the Viso 
(see Rte. C) from the E. or the N.E., 
there are two climbs, best made from 
the Albergo Alpino, of which a 
brief notice must here be given. The 
easier expedition is the Monte 
Meidassa "(3, 105 m., 10,187 ft.), 
rather to the N.E. of the Col de la 
Traversette : it is simply a walk up 
easy stony slopes on its S.W. or W. 
flank, and may be gained in 2J-3 
hrs. or less from the inn, the path 
being the same as that to the Col de 
la Traversette as far as the little 
spring, whence \-\ hr. easy ascent to 
the N. suffices to gain the cairn on 
the summit. The panorama extends 
from the Maritimes to Monte Rosa, 



and includes the Albergo Alpino, 
Crissolo, and Paesana ; but the chief 
feature is the almost unrivalled view 
of the Viso itself, this being one of 
the four most favourably situated 
points whence to admire the monarch 
of the Cottians. (Between this peak 
and the Monte Granero to the W. is 
the Col Luims, by which the Val 
Pellice can be easily reached (see 
Rte. D. 2. a), or by a descent, a 
traverse, and a reascent the first 
chalet — the Bergeriedu Grand Vallon 
■ — on the French side of the Col de 
la Traversette, attained by way of 
the Col de Seylieres (2,826 m., 9,272 
ft.), 2J- 3 hrs. from the Meidassa, and 
\ hr. down to the chalet. ) 

The chief attraction (next, of course, 
after the Viso) for a mountaineer who 
makes a halt at the Albergo Alpino is 
the Visolotto, the fine rock peak, 
which rises just N. of the Viso, and 
stands to it as the Klein Schreck- 
horn in the Bernese Oberland does 
to the Gross Schreckhorn. Its lower 
and S. point (3,346 m., 10,978 ft.) 
was first scaled in 1875 by Signor F. 
Montaldo by the S.E. ridge, but the 
higher or N. summit (3,353 m. , 
11,001 ft.) was not reached till 1881, 
when Mr. Coolidge climbed it by a 
great zigzag across the E. face over 
good though steep rocks, the highest 
ridge being struck at a point 15 min. 
from the N. summit, and 25 min. 
from the S. summit, both being 
visited. A point on the highest 
ridge rather nearer the N. summit 
was gained in 1892 by Signor Lanino 
from the Col du Visolotto by way of 
the N.W. arete, and a traverse over 
the E. face (4 J hrs. ) Mr. Coolidge 
took 2\ hrs. from the inn to the ex- 
treme N, end of the snow band at 
the E. foot of the peak, and 1 hr. 
50 min. more to the highest ridge, 
\ hr. S. of the N. summit : the 
descent was effected down the S. 
face, mainly by a great couloir 
descending directly from the N. 
summit, the party thus gaining the 
glacier between the peak and the 
Viso in 2\ hrs. from the S. summit. 



ROUTE B. TURIN OR SALUZZO TO GUILLESTRE 57 



some time (perhaps f hr. ) having 
been lost by not discovering on the 
descent the one weak point in the 
last rock precipice. 50 min. by a 
traverse round the S. base of the 
peak sufficed to gain the Col du 
Visolotto, between the Visolotto and 
the Punta Gastaldi (leading to the 
very head of the Vallante glen), 
whence by a snow couloir and easy 
rocks and grass the Albergo Alpino 
was regained in if hr. It is thus not 
a very long day to traverse this bold 
peak, whence the two N. routes up 
the Viso can be studied close at hand. 

To complete the notice of the 
various other peaks and passes 
N. of the Col du Visolotto it may 
be mentioned that the Punta Gastaldi, 
or Visoulet (3,269 m. , 10,726 ft.), is 
accessible in i-i^ hr. from the Col 
de Vallante (see last Rte. 2), its E. 
face being very steep, while the 
Alonte di Marte is best described 
below in connection with the Col de 
la Traversette. The Col Isaia was 
first crossed in 1878 by MM. P. 
Guillemin and A. Salvador de Quat- 
refages — 4 hrs. 20 min. from the 
Refuge des Lyonnais to the Albergo — 
who found an ice couloir on its E. 
side. The Col del Colour del Porco 
(2,921 m., 9,584 ft.) is a smugglers' 
pass, which owes its name to the 
' couloir ' — the word ' colour ' should 
be compared with 4 coluret ' and 
- collerin ' in other parts of the Alps, 
which all have the same meaning — 
by which pigs were smuggled over, 
as well as other articles. It was 
traversed by Mr. Whymper in i860, 
and again in 1888 by Mr. Coolidge. 
The way from the Albergo leads past 
the Fiorenza and Lauzetto lakes, and 
then rounds the S. end of a steep 
bank — W. of the 2nd lake, and 
marked 2,830 m. on the Italian 
map — of grass -grown, fragments of 
rock, looking like an old moraine, 
in order to pass N. by stones and 
snow along the E. base of the main 
range past a smugglers' hut to the 
foot of an easy couloir of snow. There 
is a small zigzag path on the left 



bank of this couloir, quite near its 
top. The Col is reached in 3 hrs. or 
so from the Albergo Alpino. From 
it the traveller should ascend by easy 
I broken rocks the Roccie Fourioim 
\ (3,113 m., 10,214 ft.), on the N. — 
! placed too far N. on the Italian map, 
! as it rises between the Isaia and the 
Porco — in order to extend the view. 
From the Col it is possible to traverse 
nearly at a level over stones in a S. 
direction to the Col de Vallante 
i (1 hr. or less). On the French side 
! of the pass the way lies (despite the 
: Italian map) down into the same 
j hollow as that from the Col Isaia to 
! a crescent-shaped tarn, the two Cols 
being hence distinguished by the fact 
that the Isaia is a wide opening to 
I the N.W., accessible by a slope of 
I stones, while the Porco is a narrow 
, gap to the S.E. , attained by stones 
I and boulders on the left or W. edge 
of a stone wall of some height and 
steepness. It is then necessary to 
1 gain the S.E. foot of the Aiguille 
Bleue (2,764 m. , 9,069 ft.), so as to 
reach the track from the Col de 
j Vallante, by which the ' Refuge 
des Lyonnais ' is gained in i-J hr. 
from the Col. As much confusion 
exists in Alpine history as to this 
pass, it may be as well to say that 
Mr. Coolidge, finding deep snow on 
the way, took 2 hrs. 25 min. from 
' the Refuge to the Col, and 1 hr. 
50 min. thence to the Albergo 
Alpino, an exact description of the 
expedition being given in ' Le Dau- 
phine ' of Grenoble, no. 1,462, 
June 30, 1889, p. 57.3 

From the Albergo Alpino the 
track (barely passable for mules) 
towards the Traversette mounts in 
zigzags in a N. W. direction round the 
hill-side above and opposite the 
infant Po, passes due W. over the 
little plain of the A mail di Viso (for 
the Col of that name, see Rte. D. 2. b), 
and then winds steeply up round a 
rocky spur in a N. direction and past 
a ruined hut to a wild hollow wherein 
is a small spring. 

£Here the route for the Col 



58 COTTIAN ALPS. I. 



§ 4. VISO DISTRICT 



Luisas, the Monte Meidassa, and the 
Monte Granero strikes away to the 
N3 

The path bears once more to the W. 
by some zigzags, and in a few minutes 
reaches the E. entrance (marked by 
splashes of red paint) of the famous 
Pertuis du Viso or Traversette Tunnel 
(2 hrs. from the Albergo). It is now 
furnished with an iron hand rail, but, 
as it makes a bend, the interior is 
dark, while a sort of small divide 
must be crossed in the middle, the 
slopes on one or other side of which 
are often iced, thus adding to the 
mild excitement of the passage. 
The Tunnel saves about 20 min. or 
so, the zigzag track to the Col bear- 
ing S. from its entrance, above a 
high rock wall on the E. , which is 
inconvenient when there is much 
snow. The E. mouth of the Tunnel 
is 2,915 m. (9,564 ft.), and the Col 
— on which there are remains of old 
redoubts and a wooden cross — is 
2,950 m. (9,679 ft.) From the Col 
there is a very fine and extensive 
prospect across the Piedmontese plain, 
including Paesana, Saluzzo, and the 
Albergo Alpino, with the Viso group, 
while on the French side all the 
great Dauphine peaks are visible. 
The view may be much extended by 
mounting to the S. in 1 hr. or less 
over stones on the French side of the 
ridge to the Monte di Marte 
(c. 3,160 m., 10,368 ft.), a neglected 
summit, which is in the position 
occupied by the figures 3,070 on the 
Italian map, and 3,112 on the French 
map, neither giving it any name, 
while by comparison with the neigh- 
bouring summits 3,160m. (10,368 ft.) 
seems to approach more nearly to 
the true height than the figures given 
on the two maps. It may also be 
climbed from near the Col Isaia by 
following the W. ridge to the lower 
S. summit, and then traversing the 
W. face to the higher N. summit. The 
ascent of the Monte Meidassa 
(3,105 m., 10,187 ft.), from the 
spring near the Tunnel, has been 
described above. That of the Monte 



Granero, or Roc de la Traversette 
(3,170 m., 10,401 ft.), N. of the Col 
and Tunnel, can be effected in 50 min. 
(3§-4 hrs. from the Albergo) from 
the Col Luisas, between it and the 
Meidassa, by way of the great snow 
couloir (or the rocks on one or other 
side of it), descending on its N. face 
towards the Val Pellice ; it can also 
be climbed from the S., E., and W. , 
so that it can be very easily combined 
with the passage of the Col or Tunnel 
de la Traversette. 

The remarkable Tunnel above 
mentioned was pierced between 1478 
and 1480 by Louis II., Marquis of 
Saluzzo, with the pecuniary aid of 
Louis XI. of France, as sovereign of 
Dauphine. The object was to secure 
against the dangers of crossing the pass 
the importation from Provence into 
Italy of salt, cloth, cattle, and other 
articles, and from Italy into France 
of rice, oil, skins, &c. It was later 
also used for the passage of troops, as 
in 1494, 1499, &c.j and it is obvious 
that the political advantage to France 
of this safe route after she had seized 
the marquessate of Saluzzo in 1529 
was very great, so that this was one 
of the chief reasons why the French 
were expelled from that territory by 
the Duke of Savoy in 1588. But it 
was only in 1 601 that Savoy obtained 
a formal surrender from France of 
the whole marquessate. The en- 
trances of the Tunnel have often been 
closed, purposely or not, by fallen 
rocks, but of late years have been 
cleared out, though often obstructed 
(particularly on the Italian side) by 
snow till the month of July. Its pre- 
sent length is about 75 m. (246 ft.), 
while the average width is 2.\ m. 
(8 ft.), and the average height about 
2 m. (6J ft.) There is a bend about 
30 m. (98 ft.) from the Italian en- 
trance, while on the French side the 
outermost portion of the Tunnel seems 
to be artificial. It was not only the 
earliest work of its kind, but still re- 
mains one of the most remarkable. 
Its origin and history are fully set 
forth in the monograph by Signor 



ROUTE B. TURIN OR SALUZZO TO GUILLESTRE 59 



Vaccarone referred to in the Intro- 
duction to this Chapter. 

The descent on the French side 
of the Col or of the Tunnel is not 
nearly as steep as that towards Pied- 
mont. The ancient paved track, 
visible only in parts, winds round the 
N. edge of a stony hollow, on leaving 
which it reaches Alpine pastures, 
which in the early summer are covered 
with rare and exquisite flowers. Here 
stands the Bergerie du Grand Vallon, 
2,372 m., 7,782 ft. (| hr. from the 
Col), whence £ hr. suffices to gain 
the Col de Seylieres (2,826 m., 
9,272 ft.) on the N., which leads 
over in 2J-3 hrs. to the Ciabotta del 
Pro, inn, at. the head of the Val 
Pellice (§ 5. Rte. A). From the 
Bergerie it is easy to go straight 
down to the S.W. to the ' Refuge 
des Lyonnais ' (20 min.), but the 
path towards Abries bears nearly due 
W. from the Bergerie, and descends 
over grass slopes, till, at a very con- 
spicuous solitary larch tree, it joins 
that coming from the Col de Vallante, 
on the right side of the valley of the 
Guil itself (f hr. ) The track hence- 
forward follows this bank of the Guil 
to Abries. In about 10 min. the 
chalets of Ruines are seen on the 
opposite bank, at the mouth of the 
Ruines gorge, through which there is 
a route from the Refuge Agnel and 
the Breche de Ruines (Rte. A. 1. c), 
and 20 min. further the mule track 
becomes a char road. The Viso is 
not seen on the French side till some 
way beyond the uppermost hollow, 
and some travellers prefer to make a 
detour thence towards the S., so as 
to study it. But it is just as well 
seen from the main valley between 
the solitary tree and the commence- 
ment of the char road. The fore- 
ground is formed by the stony valley, 
above which, at the extreme head of 
the valley, rises the huge shattered 
masses which make up the Viso. 
The principal mass is composed of 
the highest peak, on the left, with 
the blunt point of the Viso di Vallante 
(3,672 m., 12,048 ft.) on the right. 



Between the two is seen a small 
hanging glacier, to the left of which 
are two other smaller icefields, none 
descending into the valley. It is 
noticeable that neither on this nor on 
any other side is there spaci on the 
Viso for any considerable accumula- 
tion of snow, and this is the reason, 
rather than the milder climate of the 
adjoining valleys, why this mountain, 
unlike every other in the Alps which 
can be compared with it in point of 
height, bears on its flanks merely these 
scanty patches of ice. (Of course from 
this side the glacier between the main 
peak and the Visolotto remains con- 
cealed. ) To the left of the main 
mass is seen the Visolotto and the 
other peaks in the ridge stretching 
towards the Col de la Traversette ; 
while on the right the Pointe Joanne 
is prominent above the opening of the 
Col de Vallante, the top of the 
Grande Aiguillette peering over 
the ridge, while a glimpse is also 
gained of the cliffs of the Roche 
Taillante on the same (W. ) side of 
the valley. The Guil valley itself is 
bare and barren, but the pastures on 
its right side abound in rare plants. 
In 10 or 15 min. from the commence- 
ment of the char road there is a 
slight bend in the valley, and the 
Viso is lost sight of. Just beyond 
the narrow opening of the gorge de- 
scending from the Col Vieux (Rte. A. 
1. c) is the hamlet of La Chalfi, 
1,695 m -> 5>56i ft. (1 hr.), and 10 
min. (1 m.) further is La Monta 
(about 3 hrs. from the Col), where 
the mule track from the Val Pellice 
over the Colde la Croix (§ 5. Rte. A) 
falls in. The walk becomes more and 
more tiresome, though Ristolas 
(£hr., ih m.) (1,633 m., 5,358 ft.), 
amidst its trees on the other side of 
the Guil, at the mouth of the Segure 
glen (see Rte. A. 1. c), affords some 
relief to the eye. The road continues 
across a flat desert tract, hardly de- 
scending at all, glimpses being caught 
occasionally of the green slopes of the 
Abries basin, but low mounds con- 
ceal that village till quite near it. 



6o COTTIAN ALPS. I. § 4. VISO DISTRICT 



Abries is attained in 40 min. (2 m.) 
from Ristolas, or rather over 4 hrs. 
good steady walking from the pass, 
or hrs. from the Albergo Alpino. 

Abries (1,552 m., 5,092 ft.) is a 
charmingly situated, fair-sized village, 
at the junction of the Val Preveyre 
on the N. with the Guil valley, and 
has a pretty sixteenth-century parish 
church, as well as a seventeenth-cen- 
tury covered Market Hall, adorned 
with many wise proverbs and moral 
saws painted on its outer walls. 

[[In the neighbourhood there are 
several very fine points of view, 
generally very easily accessible. These 
are described elsewhere, as they can be 
all conveniently combined with passes, 
which abound near Abries. Many 
glens seem to radiate from this moun- 
tain village, so that there are paths 
across the mountains (generally mule 
tracks) in almost every direction. In 
this and the preceding Rte. we have 
indicated those which give access to 
the Val Varaita and the Valley of 
the Po. In § 5. Rtes. A and D, 
those to the Pellice and Germanasca 
valleys are noticed, while in § 6. 
Rtes. B and C, those leading over to 
Cesanne or to Briancon, at either foot 
of the Mont Genevre, are described. 
Of the four chief belvederes near 
Abries (other than those noticed above 
at the head of the Guil valley) the 
Brie Froid (3,310m., 10,860 ft.) and 
the Grand Glayza (3,286 m., 10,781 
ft.) may be climbed on the way to 
Cesanne and Briancon respectively 
(§ 6. Rtes. B and C), while the Brie 
Bouchet (3,003 m., 9,853 ft.) and the 
Tete du Pelvas (2,936 m., 9,633 ft.) 
may be visited on the way to the Val 
Pellice (§ 5. Rte. A). Of course any 
of these summits may be made the 
object of a w T alk from Abries and 
back, Brie Froid commanding an ex- 
Xremely fine and extensive view, while 
Brie Bouchet will interest rock- 
climbers. J 

It is 19! m. by high road from Abries 
to Guillestre (diligences in about 4^ 
hrs.), the drive being for the greater 
part of the time a very striking and re- 



markable one. Till the Maison du Roi 
the road is almost without a break on 
or above the right bank of the Guil. A 
full description is given in M. Tivol- 
lier's book, mentioned in the ' Intro- 
duction 5 to this Chapter. 

Three m. below Abries is the rich 
and prosperous village of Aiguilles ', 

; which has been burnt down and re- 
built several times of recent years. 
On the S. the magnificent forest of 
Marassan covers the mountain-side ; 

! 2-J m. further on the road passes oppo- 
site the village of Ville Vieille, at the 

; mouth of the Molines glen, through 
which passes lead by St. Veran and 
Fongillarde to the Ubaye and Varaita 

; valleys (§ 3. Rte. B. 4, and above, 

; Rte. A. 1). It is only 2 m. more to 
the very picturesque little fortress of 

; Chateau Queyras, perched at a height 

; of 1,340 m. (4,397 ft.) on a rock in 

j the midst of the valley, which it 
entirely commands. The old castle 
dates from before the fourteenth cen- 

; tury, and has been preserved in the 
midst of the more modern fortifica- 
tions, added in the eighteenth century. 
In the background is seen the bold 
rock of the Brie Bouehet. The road 
passes on the N. side of the Chateau, 
and after a rapid and stony descent 
crosses the Riviere torrent, flowing 
from the N.W. (For the char road 
over the Col dTzouard through this 

I glen to Briancon, see § 6. Rte. C. 2. ) 

• Soon after commences the magnificent 
series of ravines known collectively 

: as the Combe du Queyras (this name 

! is derived from the name of the 
Quariates, the Celtic inhabitants of the 
district). The highest and finest is that 

1 of La Ckapelue. The road follows the 
bed of the Guil, crossing and re- 
crossing the stream, which is shut in 
by lofty and very striking walls of 
rock. The scenery through which 
the road passes between Chateau 
Queyras and Guillestre is varied and 
singular, and very unlike in character 
that in other Alpine districts. The 
summers being extremely hot, the 
scanty vegetation which alone exists 
on these barren mountains is soon 



ROUTE B. TURIN OR SALUZZO TO GUILLESTRE 61 



burnt up, and after midsummer little 
remains beside some fragrant shrubby 
species, such as the wild lavender, the 
hyssop, Satureja 7?io?ztana, &c. The 
botanist, however, finds an abundant 
harvest in this district in the months 
of July and August. The left bank 
of the Guil is finally attained at the 
small inn of the Maison du Roi 
(wrongly said to be so called because 
Louis XIII. halted here in 1629 on 
his way into Italy), 9 m. below 
Chateau Queyras, and at the narrow 
opening of the Ceillac glen. (For the 
passes through it to the Ubaye valley 
see § 3. Rte. B. 3.) The road now 
mounts by zigzags high above the 
Guil, which roars in a grand gorge at 
a great depth below on the right, and 
crosses over the shoulder {La Viste, 
i.e. la vue) separating the Guil from 
the Rioubel on the S. Here the 
Pelvoux and its attendant peaks are 
seen to great advantage, towering up 
at the head of the Vallouise, and over- 
topping all the intermediate ridges. 
The reddish hue which prevails among 
the rocks that enclose the Durance 
valley, and their extreme barrenness, 
will remind the traveller of the colour- 
ing and character of scenes in Pales- 
tine, while the extensive records of 
ancient glacier action will arouse the 
fancy of the geologist. From this 
shoulder the road winds down some 
bare slopes by several zigzags in order 
to gain (3 m. from the Maison du 
Roi and 19 J m. from Abries) the con- 
siderable village or small town of 

Guillestre (950 m., 3,117 ft.), on 
the Riotibel torrent. (For the passes 
hence by the Escreins and Vars glens 
to the Ubaye valley, see § 3. Rte. B. 
1 and 2.) The only object of remark 
in the village itself is the parish 
church, rebuilt in the early sixteenth 
century, and boasting a porch sup- 
ported by 4 slender pillars, of which 
the two central ones rest on the back of 
lions carved out of red marble. The 
chief attraction of the place is the 
magnificent and surprising view it 
enjoys of the Pelvoux, the Pic Sans 
Nom, and the Ailefroide. 



From Guillestre a road runs down 
in 3 m. along the Rioubel, the Guil 
being crossed on the way, to the 
Montdauphin-Guillestre station, on 
the Briancon and Grenoble railway 
(§ 9. Rte. Q). This station is 17 m. 
from Briancon and 135 m. from 
Grenoble. It is just under the nearly 
insulated rock with three precipitous 
sides at the confluence of the Guil and 
the Durance, on which Vauban in 
1693 built the fortress of Montdauphin, 
which was intended to block the 
route from Italy, but which now pos- 
sesses little more than an historical 
interest. 



Route C. 

ASCENT OF MONTE VISO. 

Monte Viso (3,843 m., 12,609 ft.) 

long enjoyed a reputation for inacces- 
sibility second only to that of the 
Matierhorn, though this was due 
rather to the formidable appearance 
of the crags that rise tier over tier to 
its summit than to the actual experi- 
ence of any competent mountaineer 
who had attempted the ascent. The 
S. face of the peak, above the head 
of the Forciolline glen, is the only 
side by which, looking from a dis- 
tance, it appears practicable to reach 
a considerable height, without en- 
countering serious difficulties, and it 
was by this face that on August 30, 
1 86 1, Messrs. W. Mathews and 
F. W. Jacomb, with J. B. and Michel 
Croz, succeeded in effecting the first 
ascent of the peak. In 1862 Mr. 
Tuckett spent a night on the summit, 
and in 1863 the first Italian party 
attained the summit. These three 
ascents were all made from Castel- 
delfino through the Forciolline glen, 
Nowadays, while the S. face is the 
ordinary route, as being both the 
shortest and the easiest, it is usual to 
spent the night at the Quintino Sella 



62 COTTIAN ALPS. I. 



§ 4. VISO DISTRICT 



Club hut (2,950 m., 9,679 ft.), at the 
very foot of the S. face, reaching it 
from Crissolo over the Passo delle 
Sagnette. It was not till 1879 that a 
new way up the Viso was struck out, 
MM. P. Guillemin and A. Salvador 
de Quatrefages then climbing from 
the Col de Vallante up the N.W. 
face, that so well seen (though wholly 
Italian) from the head of the valley of 
the Guil. But this route is rather 
difficult, and has been but rarely 
taken since its discovery, while that 
up the N.E. face from the Piano del 
Re, first effected by Mr. Coolidge in 
1 88 1, is even more difficult and 
dangerous, and does not seem to have 
been repeated. It was only in 1887 
that Signor G. Rey opened out a new 
route up the great E. face from the 
Col dei Viso, and this is now fre- 
quently followed, since, without being 
very difficult, it is more interesting 
than the ordinary way up the S. face. 
In 189 [ Signori V. Giordana and 
P. Gastaldi made the first ascent (4 hrs. 
from the Club hut up the E. wall) of 
the second peak of the Viso, the Viso 
di Vallante, 3,672 m., 12,048 ft. (the 
name has been wrongly applied to 
other points), the blunt point which 
rises a little S.W. of the main peak, 
and has been called by some French 
writers the 6 Triangle ; ' while in 
1893 Signori Antoniotti and Grosso, 
having ascended this summit, forced 
their way first below, then along the 
connecting ridge in about 4 hrs. to 
the highest point of the Viso itself, 
this serving as a variation on the 
ordinary route. 

We must now proceed to give some 
account of the two main routes up 
this magnificent peak, a brief notice 
of the two N. routes being quite 
sufficient, as their interest is mainly 
historical. 

I. By the S. Face. — This rocky 
face rises above the head of the 
Forciolline glen, which is enclosed 
between the main ridge running S.E. 
from the Viso, and that running 
S.W., on which rises the Viso di 
Vallante. The Club hut, near the 



Sacripante spring, can be reached in 
5 hrs. from Casteldelfino by following 
the Col de Vallante route (Rte. A. 2) 
as far as the Soulieres chalets (2 hrs.), 
and then mounting in a N.E. direc- 
tion, at first up a hill-side diversified 
with ancient knotted trees. A stream 
is seen on the N.E. which descends 
in a waterfall from the upper lakes. 
It is necessary to climb up the steep 
rocky barrier on its W. side by a 
green gully, and a rocky hollow, and 
over a shoulder, in order to gain the 
upper basin of the Forciolline glen. 
Several lakes are passed, and the glen 
bends gradually to the N. when the 
foot of the last slope of the Passo 
delle Sagnette is passed. The Club 
hut is seen as soon as the corner 
of the valley has been turned, and is 
attained in 3 hrs. from Soulieres. 

A party starting from Crissolo 
must mount in a S.W. direction by 
a zigzag path up pastures to the 
desolate Randoliera glen, enclosed 
between two great moraines, which 
leads past the Prato Fiorito lakes to 
that of Costagrande. Above the last- 
named lake there is a steep ascent up 
the rocky barrier called the Baize di 
Cesare, by which and a short descent 
the Lago Grande di Viso is attained. 
(This point may also be reached in 
about 3 hrs. from the inn on the 
Piano del Re (see last Rte.), while a 
rather higher point, nearer the foot of 
the Passo delle Sagnette, can be 
attained in 4 or 5 hrs. from Crissolo 
or Oncino, past the Alpetto chalets. ) 
From the large lake a stone-strewn 
plain is traversed in a S.W. direction 
to a small lake, immediately above 
which is the gully of shifting stones 
by which the Passo delle Sagnette 
(2,975 m -j 9>76i ft-) is reached in 
4-5 hrs. from Crissolo. On the 
other side a stony traverse to the 
N.W. brings the traveller in less than 
I hr. more to the Club hut. 

From the Club hut the Viso ap- 
pears as a rock wall, crowned by two 
horns, the easternmost of which is 
the culminating point. Rocks and 
snow lead to the foot of this wall, 



ROUTE C. ASCENT OF MONTE VISO 



63 



which is then climbed in two or three 
great zigzags first to the E. , then to 
the W., by many gullies and ledges, 
to the base of its upper portion, where 
the rocks, hitherto not very steep, 
rise more precipitously. It is perhaps 
best to bear rather to the right, so as 
to gain the S.E. ridge, but a direct 
ascent is also quite possible. 3-4 hrs. 
suffice under ordinary circumstances 
for the climb from the Club hut, 
there being no serious difficulty, 
though there are many loose stones 
on the ledges. Many inexperienced 
travellers make this ascent annually. 
The actual summit consists of a rock- 
strewn ridge, which rises in two horns, 
connected by a curving snow arete, 
and distant about 10 min. from each 
other. On the E. and loftier point 
there was set up in 1896 a huge 
bronze statue of the Madonna, backed 
by a gigantic cross 6 m. (20 ft.) in 
height. 

The view from the summit is, 
as might be expected from the pro- 
minent position of the peak, ex- 
tremely extensive, both over the 
plains and the mountain ranges of 
Italy, France, and even Austria. It 
is said that on a very clear day the 
Mediterranean can be seen (but this 
seems very doubtful), and also the 
island of Corsica. i§-2 hrs. suffice 
for the return to the Club hut. 

2. By the E. Face. — The starting 
point for this- route is a bivouac near 
the Lago Grande di Viso, or that of 
Costagrande (see above), though a 
party of active walkers may achieve 
the ascent direct from the inn on the 
Piano del Re. The actual ascent 
commences from the Col dei Viso, 
3 hrs. from that inn. Immediately 
to the W. of that pass a great deeply- 
cut gully is seen, which descends 
from a conspicuous snowfield of some 
size on the E. face of the Viso. The 
steep but good rocks about 100 m. 
(328 ft.) N. of this gully are climbed, 
and then the snowfield traversed, so as 
to gain the foot of the true E. ridge. 
A well-marked notch at the foot of 
the sheer drop in which this ridge 



ends gives access to its S. slope, by 
traversing which diagonally the crest 
of that ridge is gained above that 
drop, and henceforth followed more 
or less to the E. summit, which may 
be gained in from 4 to 5 hrs. from the 
I Col dei Viso. This E. ridge is 
j separated from the great S.E. ridge 
I by a deep couloir which descends 
i to the Lago Grande. The route up 
j the E. face seems to offer no very 
j serious difficulties, and to be quite 
! safe. 

3. By the N. W. Face.— From the 
j Piano del Re or any of the neigh- 
bouring summits there is seen to rise 
in the wide depression between the 
Viso and the Visolotto a curiously- 
shaped and jagged rocky point, called 
the Mano, at the base of which is 
a high cliff of ice, commanding the 
great gully which descends from be- 
tween these two peaks towards the 
Piano del Re. This ice cliff is really 
the butt end of a little glacier (the 
only one of any size anywhere on the 
Viso) which lies hidden away in a 
deep hollow between the two peaks, 
I and close to the head of the Vallante 
glen. This small glacier (the true 
Viso glacier, and the real source of 
the Po) is the key to the two routes 
which have been effected up what 
may be called the two facets of the 
N. face of tKe Viso. From a bivouac 
close to the lake just on the Italian 
side of the Col de Vallante there is no 
difficulty in reaching over stones and 
this glacier the notch close to the 
N. W. foot of the Viso. A short gully 
and easy rocks then lead over on to the 
N. W. face, and round to a small three- 
cornered ice field on it. It is best to 
mount the good rocks on the S. of the 
j couloir leading from the higher ice 
field to that just mentioned, the 
I higher ice field, which stretches like 
[ a band across the whole N.W. face 
I to the hanging glacier under the Viso 
! di Vallante, being thus attained. A 
nearly direct ascent up it and the 
j rocks above it, with a great zigzag to 
the left to a jagged crest and back to 
I the right below a curious rock, shaped 



64 COTTIAX ALPS. f. 



§ 4. VISO DISTRICT 



like an inverted bell, and a final snow 
gully lead to the highest crest of the 
Viso, between the two horns. The 
first party which took this route lost 
much time in photographing, halts, 
&c, but estimated that 6 hrs. 20 min. 
walking were taken from the Col de 
Vallante to the summit. Mr. Coolidge, 
who three weeks later, in September, 
made the second ascent by this route, 
being favoured by weather, and find- 
ing the rocks mostly free from ice 
and snow, took 1 hr. 20 min. from 
the Col de Vallante to the foot of the 
peak, 1 J hr. more to the upper ice 
held, and I hr. 20 min. thence to the 
top, in all 4 hrs. 10 min. walking. 
Later parties have taken a much 
longer time, and it is probable that 
this route is easiest in late summer, 
when the rocks are most likely to be 
free from ice and snow. 

4. By the N.E. Face. — This 
difficult and rather dangerous route 
may be dismissed briefly, as it is 
more or less of a tour de force. Mr. 
Coolidge, with his two guides, 
Christian Aimer, sen. andjun., went 
in 2 hrs. 5 min. from the inn on the 
Piano del Re to the foot of the great 
couloir descending from .the ice cliff 
between the Viso and the Visolotto 
(see 3. above), and in 2.\ hrs. more, 
keeping to its right edge (later in 
the day it is swept by avalanches from 
the aforesaid ice cliff), and climbing 
up rocks and round a great pinnacle 
on the S., reached the Viso glacier 
(see above'), at the N. foot of the Viso. 
Leaving the N.W. route to the right 
or W, the party climbed up good 
rocks on the N.E. face, and then up 
very steep rocks (rotten and, in 1881, 
also iced) on the right bank of the 
steep and long ice couloir which 
comes down from the summit to the 
Viso glacier (steps having occasion- 
ally to be cut in the couloir itself) till 
a gully in the rocks on the left led 
them to the E. summit in hrs. 
from the Viso glacier, or 9 hrs. 50 min. 
from the Piano del Re. The route is 
an obvious one when the Viso is , 
examined from the Col de la Traver- 



sette side, but is very long, though 
direct, and hard, so that it can never 
become popular, and has apparently 
never been taken a second time. 

In 1839 the late Principal Forbes 
made the tour of the Viso, and has 
been followed by a few travellers. 
This may be made from the Piano del 
Re inn by way of the Col dei Viso, 
the Passo delle Sagnette (in 1839 a 
pass further S. — perhaps the San 
ChiafTredo (Rte. D. 1) — seems to have 
been crossed), the Forciolline glen to 
the Soulieres huts, the Col de Val- 
lante, and the Col de la Traversette. 
Four ridges must thus be traversed, 
and at least one long descent and 
reascent made, so that this expedition 
is very laborious, and not to be re- 
commended. It has further the dis- 
advantage that by it the traveller is so 
close under the Viso that it is impos- 
sible for him to gain a just idea of 
the peak itself, though the rock 
scenery on the way is very striking. 
It is far better in every way for the 
traveller who wishes to study and 
admire the monarch of the Cottian 
Alps to ascend one or another of the 
great belvederes, which, as in the 
case of Mont Blanc, surround it. 
These are the Grand Rubren, at the 
head of the Ubave valley (§ 3. 
Rte. B) ; the Pelvo tfElva, S^ of 
Casteldelfino (§ 3. Rte. D) ; the 
Point e Joanne, above the Col de 
Vallante ( Rte. A. I. b. above) ; and 
the Monte Meidassa, above the Piano 
del Re (Rte. B. above). The E. face 
itself is best seen from the Viso Mozzo 
(Rte. B. above). 



Route D. 

CRISSOLO TO THE VAL VARAITA 
AND THE VAL PELLICE. 

As Crissolo is the principal head- 
quarters of travellers in the Viso 
district, it seems convenient to gather 



ROUTE D. CRISSOLO 



TO THE VAL VARAITA 



65 



into one Rte. some particulars relating 
to the passes which lead thence either 
to the Val Varaita, on the S. (Rte. A. 
above), or to the Val Pellice, on the 
N. (§ 5- Rte. A). 

1. To the Val Varaita.— There 
are at least four passes across the 
ridge between the Po and Varaita 
valleys, but it must be noted that in 
every case they lead from the Lenta 
basin, and not from that of the Po 
itself, although, as there is a good track 
from Crissolo to Oncino, this does not 
matter practically. 

(a) By the Pas so delle Sagnette. — 
This pass (2,975 m., 9,761 ft.) has 
been described in Rte. C. I. above, 
in connection with the ascent of 
Monte Viso. 4-5 hrs. suffice to reach 
it from Crissolo direct (without pass- 
ing by Oncino), and 3§ hrs. for the 
descent to Casteldelfino. It will 
mainly be used as a pass by those 
travellers who take the Viso on the 
way from Crissolo to Casteldelfino. It 
is, of course, perfectly easy to reach this 
pass from Oncino past the Alpetto 
huts. 

{b) By the Passo di San Chiaffi-edo. 
— This is a dull, stony, and unin- 
teresting pass (2,764 m., 9,069 ft.), 
redeemed only by the magnificent 
views of the Viso gained on the way 
up from the Alpetto chalets. Very 
possibly it was by this Col that 
Principal Forbes passed in 1839. 
The stone-strewn plain S. of the 
Lago Grande di Viso is gained, as for 
the Sagnette, and then it is necessary 
to bear sharply to the S., and finally 
to the W. , in order to gain the pass 
(5 hrs. from Crissolo). Some peaks 
of the Chambeyron group are seen 
hence, but the prospect may be 
greatly extended (though always shut 
in on the N. by the Viso, itself a 
most striking sight) by mounting 
N.W. in 2 hrs. to the Punta Michelis 
(3,132 m., 10,276 ft.) The glen 
shown on the Italian map W. of that 
peak is non-existent, as the summit 
directly overlooks the Forciolline glen 
(to which the descent is very easy), 
while on the S.W. ridge of the peak, 
I. 



and 20 min. off, there is a slightly 
higher point. The descent from the 
Col lies past three small lakes, and 
then by a path to the S.W. through 
a rocky defile, and over stony pastures 
in the Giargiatte glen to the Vallante 
valley, rather below the Soulieres 
huts, the track from the Col de Val- 
lante (Rte. A. 2) being followed, 
thence to Casteldelfino (2 j- hrs. from 
the Col). 

(c) By the Col di Luca. — The way 
from Oncino to this pass (2,461 m., 
8,074 ft-) 5 which seems to be less 
stony and more direct than its two 
neighbours, lies up the S.W. branch 
of the Lenta, by the Bute glen, at the 
extreme S. head of which is the Col 
(4 hrs. or so from Crissolo). The 
path on the other side bends S.W. 
over pastures to Casteldelfino (2 hrs.) 

(d) By the Col di Cervetto. — A mule 
path traverses this pass (2,245 m., 
7,366 ft, ), which lies due S. of Oncino, 
at the very head of the main Lenta 
valley, and due N. of Sampeyre. 6-7 
hrs. are said to be necessary to go 
from Crissolo to Sampeyre by this 
Col, near which there are remains of 
redoubts thrown up in the wars of the 
eighteenth century. 

2. To the Val Pellice. — The 
traveller has the choice between many 
easy passes, according as he desires to 
attain the head or the lower reach of 
the Val Pellice. We describe the 
passes across this range in order from 
W. to E. 

(a) By the Col Luis as. — This pass 
was mentioned in the account of the 
environs of the Piano del Re given in 
the preceding Rte. It may be gained 
in 20-30 min. from the spring on 
the way to the Col de la Traversette, 
or in 2 hrs. from the Piano del Re. 
E. of it is the Monte Meidassa, 
3,105 m., 10,187 ft. (accessible in 
10 min.), and W. is the Monte 
Granero, 3,170 m., 10,401 ft. (50 
min. climb. ) The height of the pass 
must be about 3,000 m. (9,843 ft.), 
and it leads to the very head of the 
Val Pellice. The descent, whether 
from the former summit or the Col 

F 



66 



COTTIAN ALPS. I. 



§ 4. VISO DISTRICT 



itself, is made by snow slopes and 
stones to the Lago Nero (1 hr.), close 
to the ColManzol (2,711m., 8, 895 ft. ), 
leading over into the head of the 
Carbonniers glen (see b and c, below). 
A faint track thence runs clown W. 
(leaving on the S. the traverse over 
grass and glacier-worn rocks to the 
Col de Sey litres, i|hr.— Rte. B) over 
an old moraine, and passes near the 
Adret del Laus lake, beyond which 
the path from the Col de Seylieres is 
joined, and followed over the pas- 
tures of the upper Val Pellice, the 
scenery of which is very fine, to the 
Giabotta del Pra inn. This is at the 
foot of the Col de la Croix (§ 5. Rte. 
A), and about 2 hrs. above Bobbio, 
in the main Val Pellice, and may be 
reached in 2J-3 hrs. from the Col 
Luisas. 

(b) By the Col de T Amait di Viso. 
— The way over this pass (2,692 m., 
8,832 ft.) strikes off to the N. from 
the Amait di Viso plain ('Amait' is 
said to mean a plain in the local 
dialect), on the way from the Piano 
del Re to the Col de la Traversette 
(Rte. B), and mounts rather steeply 
to the pass (ij hr. from the Piano 
del Re inn), which commands a very 
extensive view of the Viso group, the 
Graians, and the Pennines, extend- 
ing to Monte Rosa. A wild and 
dreary glen (into which leads the track 
from ' the Col Manzol) on the other 
side, wherein there seems to be but 
one lake of any size, brings the 
traveller by a steep descent to the 
Pis huts (if hr. ) Hence a track 
leads N.W. through woods and over 
the Col Porsel (2,358 m., 7,737 ft.) 
in 2-| hrs. to the Chiabotta del Pra 
inn. The main track runs down the 
Carbonniers glen, and joins that from 
the Sea Bianca (see c. below), before 
attaining Bobbio (2-2 J hrs.) 

(c) By the Col de Sea Bianca. — 
This pass (2,580 m., 8,465 ft.) is for 
many reasons the most agreeable route 
between the two valleys, as the way 
lies over pastures, and there is a mule 
path throughout. The track mounts 
"N.W. from Crissolo past Borgo, with 



its conspicuous white church tower, 
and above the right bank of the 
Bialot gorge. The view from the Col 
(3 hrs. from Crissolo) is as extensive as 
from the Col de l'Amait di Viso, but 
more smiling, as the wide pastures 
above Crissolo lie spread at the spec- 
tator's feet. On either side of the 
pass, at a height of about 6,000 ft., 
may be found Arabis pedemontana, a 
plant not known to exist elsewhere. 
On the upper part of the ridge are 
many other rare plants, e.g. Pedicu- 
laris rosea and fascimlata, Saxifraga 
retusa, &c. 

On the other side the path de- 
scends past the Giana huts to the 
Carbonniers glen, some way below 
the Pis chalets (b. above), the left 
side of which is followed till the Val 
Pellice is reached, a little below 
Bobbio (3-4 hrs. from the pass). 

(d) By the Col delle Porte.— A 
traveller bound direct from Crissolo 
to the little town of Torre Pellice 
will find this his best and shortest 
route. It is traversed by a good foot 
path. From Borgo, above Crissolo 
(above, c), the way lies due N. up the 
Tossiet pasture glen, the torrent from 
which joins the Po just below the 
Sanctuary of San Chiaffredo, a final 
ascent to the N.E. from very nearly 
the highest chalets, up more grass 
slopes, leading to the Col (2,267 m «> 
7,438 ft.) in 2-2J hrs. from Crissolo. 
The fine view may be greatly widened 
by following the easy ridge on the 
N.W. to the Mont Frioland, 2,720 
m., 8,924 ft. (1 hr.) Looking N. 
the hills are seen stretching down 
their arms to the plain, which is now 
no great distance off. A rather steep 
descent leads down to the bare upper 
basin in which are the Uverti chalets, 
below which are those of Rama, and 
the grassy Piano Frolero (ij hr.) 

Here the traveller may choose be- 
tween two routes. One (not recom- 
mended) runs N. across several spurs 
and glens between, till the picturesque 
village of Rora (942 m., 3.091 ft.) is 
attained (2-2J hrs.) ; the ridge N. of 
that village can be gained in J hr. , 



§ 5. WALDENSIAN VALLEYS 



67 



and then either Villar Pellice, on the 
N.W., or Torre Pellice, on the N.E., 
attained (ij hr.) by paths which 
traverse the hill-sides. But it is in- 
finitely preferable to bear N.E. from 
the Piano Frolero, by a winding rock 
staircase, to the main Luserna valley, 
which here forms a beautiful gorge. 
Soon a rough char road is reached, 
which serves the purpose of some 
slate quarries. The valley becomes 
more and more beautiful as the 
traveller descends. The track from 
Rora falls in, and chestnuts shade the 
road till (3-4 hrs. from the pass) the 
village of Luserna (now forming one 
commune with San Giovanni, oppo- 
site) is entered. It is only 1 m. by 
road or railway below the capital of 
the Waldensian Valleys, Torre Pel- 
lice (see § 5. Rte. A). 



SECTION 5. 

WALDENSIAN VALLEYS. 

In this district we include the Pied- 
montese valleys lying between the 
Po and the Dora Riparia, which are 
inhabited by the Waldensians or 
Vaudois, whose heroic resistance to 
persecution, and final emancipation 
from all religious disabilities, have 
excited the lively sympathy of all who 
know their history. 1 

1 It should always be borne in mind 
that the heirs of what was originally 
a religious revival at Lyons in the 
twelfth century became in the six- 
teenth-seventeenth century, by their 
deliberate and voluntary act, merged 
in the Calvinistic movement of Geneva, 
and since that date have lost their 
historical identity. For a true account 
of their origin and literature see Karl 
Miiller's Die ' VValdenser, und ihre 
einzelnen Gruppen bis znm Anfa?ig 
des 14. Jahrhunderts (Gotha, 1886), 
and E. Montet's Histoire Litteraire 
des Vaudois du PUmont (Paris, 1885). 



These valleys do not contain any 
very high mountains, the loftiest 
being the Rognosa de Sestrieres 
(3,279 m., 10,758 ft.), above the Col 
de Sestrieres, while other noteworthy 
summits are the Mont Politri (3,081 
m., 10,009 ft.) and Mont Albergian 
(3,040 m., 9,974 ft. ; both above 
Fenestrelles), the Grand Queyron 
(3,067 m., 10,073 tne Brie 

Bouchet (3,003 m., 9,853 ft.), the 
Punt a Vergia (2,990 m., 9,810 ft.), 
and the Punta Cournour (2, 868 m. , 
9,410 ft.) But, quite apart from any 
historical associations, the scenery of 
the valleys is very beautiful, the 
forests and the clear streams, not fed 
by glaciers, lending many charms to 
what is almost a subalpine region. 

Two principal valleys make up the 
entire district. One is that of the 
Pellice, which runs from the foot of 
the Monte Granero in a due N. 
direction to Villanova, and then 
nearly due E. The other is that of 
the Chisone, which from its source 
at the head of the Troncea glen 
flows in the form of a long crook, 
first towards the N.W., and then 
curves gradually round till it returns 
towards the S.E., entering the plain 
of Piedmont near Pinerolo, and 
joining the Pellice a few miles below 
that town : at Perosa it receives a 
considerable affluent, the Germanasca, 
made up of the torrents from the 
glens of Prali, Rodoretto, and Mass- 
ello. With the exception of the 
Prali branch of the Germanasca, 
which does at a single point touch 
the main ridge of the Cottians, there 
communicating with the Guil valley 
by the double Col d'Abries, the 
Chisone valley does not drain any 
portion of the main Cottian chain. 
For it will be seen, on consulting a 
map, that the Dora Riparia, with one 
of its chief branches, the Ripa> is 
also dispesed in the form of a crook, 
though of larger dimensions, and 
thus completely surrounds the valley 
of the Chisone, cutting it off from the 
main chain. Hence a traveller who 
would pass from the Chisone valley- 
F 2 



6$ COTTIAN ALPS. I. § 5. 



WALDENSIAN VALLEYS 



into Dauphine or Savoy must (save by 
the Col d'Abries) traverse a double 
Alpine rampart, with the Dora or the 
Ripa valley as a ditch between the two 
obstacles. This singular disposition 
of the mountains has not been with- 
out its influence upon the history of 
the Waldensians during their armed 
struggle for the defence of their 
religious liberty. 

The best account of the Valleys 
from a topographical and military 
point of view is M. A. de Rochas 
d'Aiglun's 4 Les Vallees Vaudoises ' 
(Paris, 1881), with an excellent large- 
scale map, while for the wonderful 
march of the exiles (August 16-26, 
1689) from the Lake of Geneva back 
to their valleys the description by 
their leader, Henri Arnaud, £ Histoire 
de la Glorieuse Rentree des Vaudois 
dans leurs Vallees' (17 10, reprinted 
at Geneva in 1879), may be con- 
sulted. Many local details may be 
gathered from an Italian translation 
(Pinerolo, 1879) of the old edition of 
the present (and preceding) Section, 
made by the late Mr. R. H. Budden, 
and enriched with notes and appen- 
dices by Signor V. BufTa and Dr. 
Rostan. 



Route A. 

PINEROLO TO ABRIES BY THE 
VAL PELLICE. 

Pinerolo (French Pigneroi) is a 

large straggling town connected with 
Turin by a railway (24 m., ij- 
hr.), past Airasca (the junction 
for Saluzzo : see § 4. Rte. A). 5§ m. 
beyond Pinerolo is Bricherasio, where 
the line to Barge (for Paesana and 
Crissolo, see § 4. Rte. B) branches 
off, and then "the line runs due W. 
along the Pellice to Luserna- Sa7t 
Giovanni (4 m.), two villages on 
either bank of that river, but now 
forming one commune. The former 
stands at the entrance of the Luserna 



glen (see § 4. Rte. D. 2. d). Here is 
the opening of the richly-wooded 
upper Pellice valley, and in 1 m. 
more (or 34J- m. from Turin, 2-2|hrs. 
by rail) the traveller reaches the 
capital of the Waldensian Valleys, 

Torre Pellice (called in French La 
Tour, though the words ' de Luserne ' 
are often wrongly added), 640 m., 
2,100 ft. It is a small town of 
prosperous appearance, though the 
buildings do not seem altogether 
suited to the Italian character of the 
very beautiful scenery in the neigh- 
bourhood. The results of the industry 
of the inhabitants have been largely 
increased by liberal contributions 
from England, Scotland, and other 
Protestant countries, by means of 
which a handsome, though plain, 
Waldensian church, and other public 
buildings, have been established here. 
French is the language used in the 
Church service of the Waldensians, 
and is very generally spoken here, 
though not always in the remoter 
glens. The neighbourhood of Torre 
Pellice abounds in rich and beautiful 
scenery, and travellers who are 
interested in the country, apart from 
the people, should not fail to visit 
the Angrogna glen (see Rte. C. 1), 
and also that of Luserna, with Rora 
(described in § 4. Rte. D. 2. d). The 
botanist will be pleased to see the 
rare Campanula elatines growing 
abundantly in shady places in the 
Waldensian Valleys. 

There is a rough char road for 6 m. 
up the valley along the left bank of 
the Pellice as far as Bobbio, which 
commands on the way fine views of 
the neighbouring summits. At Villar 
Pellice (4 m. ) the Carbo?miers glen 
opens out on the S., and through it 
several passes lead to Crissolo (§ 4. 
Rte. D. 2. b and c). 

Bobbio (743 m., 2,438 ft.) is a 
large village of a very Italian type, 
and remarkable chiefly for the 
massive stone embankment, con- 
structed by means of a grant from 
Oliver Cromwell (whose name is 
therefore still remembered here) to 



ROUTE A. PINEROLO TO ABRIES BY THE VAL PELLICE 69 



protect the village from the constant 
and recurring danger of inundations 
of the Pellice. (For the Col Giulien 
hence to Prali, and the ascent of the 
Punta Cournour, see Rte. C. 2.) 
The mule track soon crosses by a 
strong wooden bridge the Cmello 
torrent, descending from the Col 
Giulien, and then mounts steeply high 
above the Pellice, the rugged rocks 
and magnificent trees being very 
striking and picturesque, though the 
stony path is rather fatiguing. It is 
better on the whole to remain always 
on the left bank of the Pellice, though 
there is a tempting path which crosses 
and recrosses the stream. A very 
beautiful walk, during which fine 
views are obtained on looking back 
towards Bobbio, brings the traveller 
to the last hamlet, Villanova ^ 
1,230 m., 4,036 ft. (if hr.) Here 
the Pellice valley bends sharply to 
the S., and is followed by the track, 
which runs always above its left bank. 
The ascent becomes steeper and 
steeper, while the valley itself 
gradually contracts, and becomes a 
mere ravine, partly closed by huge 
masses of rock fallen from above. In 
the wildest part of this gorge are the 
ruins of the little fort of Mirabouc 
(\ hr.), constructed in the second half 
of the sixteenth century by the reign- 
ing Duke of Savoy, in order to guard 
this entrance to Piedmont, and de- 
stroyed by the French troops at the 
end of the eighteenth century. The 
track passes through one of the gates 
of the fort, and there is no other 
passage along the precipitous rocks 
that enclose this gloomy gorge. 
Several side torrents are crossed, and 
two small plains. Then a final zigzag 
ascent leads up to the Collet de la 
Madeleine (thus avoiding the impas- 
sable gorge), whence in a few minutes 
( 1 hr. from Mirabouc, or 3 hrs. from 
Bobbio) the beautiful level pastures 
of the uppermost reach of the Pellice 
valley are reached. They naturally 
excite the astonishment of the 
traveller, who here finds also a very 
fair little mountain inn, the Chiabotta 



del Pra (1,732 m., 5,683 ft.), which 
may well serve as headquarters for a 
climber or naturalist desiring to 
explore the neighbourhood. (For the 
ascents of the Monte Granero, and 
Monte Meidassa, at the head of the 
valley, the Cols Luisas, de Seylieres, 
Manzol, and Porsel, see § 4. Rtes. B 
and D. 2. a and b). 

The ascent to the Col de la Croix 
commences just beyond the houses of 
Pra, and many steep zigzags must be 
mounted in a S.W. direction up a 
rocky shoulder or buttress which 
forms the N. limit of the savage and 
impracticable Comba Neva, the 
natural approach to the pass. In 
nr - the pasture plateau which 
forms the Col de la Croix (2,309 m., 
7,576 ft. ) is attained. Hence there is 
a fine view of the Viso seen over the 
notch of the Col de Seylieres, as well 
as of the Mirabouc gorge and of the 
great Dauphine peaks. A gentle 
descent leads in a few minutes to one 
of the 'Refuges Napoleon,' a small 
mountain inn, beyond which the path 
(here and there passable for chars) 
winds down the right side of the bare 
Morelle glen, and then descends by 
many zigzags to the hamlet of La 
Mont a (1 hr. ), on the Col de la 
Traversette route (§ 4. Rte. B), which 
is followed for a long hour more to 
Abries, thus reached in about 6|- hrs. 
from Bobbio. This pass is one of 
the easiest and most frequented in 
the entire chain of the Alps. 

There are, however, three other 
passes between the Val Pellice and 
Abries which present greater attrac- 
tions to mountaineers than this easy 
mule path. They all cross the ridge 
between the Brie Bouchet and the 
Tete du Pelvas. 

(a) Col Bouchet. — The way quits 
that of the Col de la Croix 10 min. be- 
yond Villanova {l\ hr. from Bobbio), 
just before a bridge, and then mounts 
by zigzags, and later high above the 
left bank of the Brunei torrent, to the 
Crozena chalets, 1,583 m., 5,194 ft. 
(1 hr. from Villanova), where the 
mule track ends. Here the glen 



7o COTTIAN ALPS. I. § 5. 



WALDENSIAN VALLEYS 



splits into two arms, our way lying 
up that to the N.W. along the 
Bonchet torrent, the Brie Bouchet 
itself towering grandly up on the 
N. There is always a path, which 
crosses to the left bank of the Bouchet 
\ hr. beyond the chalets, and recrosses 
an hour higher up, above a high step 
in the valley. A last steep ascent 
then leads up to the Col Bouchet 
(2,600 m., 8,531 ft.), i\ hrs. from 
Crozena. Here, as often in the S.W. 
Alps, there is a frontier stone dated 
1823, and bearing the arms of France 
and Savoy. Just below the Col on 
the Italian side there is a ruined hut. 

([From the pass the ascent of the 
bold rock pyramid of the Brie Bouchet 
(3,003 m., 9,853 ft.) may be made in 
I A hr. or so either by a gully on the 
S.E. ridge or the E. face itself. It 
can also be scaled by the steep but 
good rocks of its W. face (2 hrs. or 
less from the base, while by rounding 
the W. foot to a notch in the N. 
ridge called < La Passette ' ( I hr. 
from the Col Bouchet) the summit can 
be gained in \ hr. more by good 
rocks. In fact, though the Brie 
makes a brave show from a distance 
(even from Chateau Queyras, far down 
the Guil valley), it is not really diffi- 
cult of access. A good walker may 
reach it in 4 hrs. from Abries by way 
of 4 La Passette,' while the return to 
that village by the W. face can be 
effected in 3J hrs. or less.] 

The descent from the Col lies over 
the N. slopes of the pretty pasture glen 
of Valpreveyre, the chalets of that name 
being gained in rather over an hour. 
\ hr. more, mainly along the left bank 
of the torrent, leads to the chapel of 
St. Barthelemi, at the junction with 
the Colon glen, descending from the 
Brie Froid, and below the village of 
Le Roux, whence f hr. more almost 
entirely along the right bank of the 
stream brings the traveller to Abries, 
which is thus reached in rather over 
7 hrs. from Bobbio by this route. 

(b) By the Col de Malaure. —This 
pass (2,567 m., 8,422 ft.) is simply a 
variation of the foregoing. The path 



to it bears due W. at the Crozena 
huts, and on the other side the Col 
Bouchet track is joined before the 
Valpreveyre huts. The time required 
is much as for the Col Bouchet. 

(c) By the Col deW Urina. — This 
pass is just N. of the Tete du Pelvas, 
which may easily be ascended from 
it. There are traces of an old mule 
path. From the inn at the Chiabotta 
del Pra a path runs N. up a steep 
grass slope, by which in -J- hr. the 
Pis Uvert chalets, in a green hollow, 
are attained. The direction to take 
then becomes N.W. In -J hr. the 
rough bit called the ' Barricate ' is 
passed, and then a very stony and 
desolate glen with a uniform slope 
leads in an hour more to the Col 
(2,537 m., 8,324 ft.) 

[In i± hr. or less by the N. ridge it 
is easy to attain the very fine view 
point of the Tete du Pelvas, or M. 
Paravas (2,936 m., 9,633 ft.) It is 
so easy of access that some day it 
will become celebrated for its pano- 
rama, although it is itself a stony 
peak in a state of rapid disintegration. 
It is easy also to traverse in \ hr. 
from the Col to the W. ridge of the 
peak, along which the summit is 
gained in a short hour more. The 
easiest way up the Tete is from the 
S.E.] 

The descent from the Col on the 
French side is over pastures, the 
routes of the two foregoing passes 
being joined at the Valpreveyre huts, 
and Abries reached in 2 hrs. from the 
pass. A shorter and more interesting 
way from the summit of the peak is 
to follow the W. ridge to the point 
named 4 Crete d 'Abries ' on the 
French map (whence there is a very 
fine view of the Viso), descending 
thence direct nearly due W. past huts 
to Abries, which by this way is not 
much more than 2 hrs. from the top. 



ROUTE B. PINEROLO TO CESANNE 



Route B. 

PINEROLO TO CESANNE BY THE 
COL DE SESTRIERES. 

Steam tramway in hr. to Perosa ; 
carriage road on to Cesanne. 

This route lies up the second of the 
two main valleys of this district, that 
of the Chisone, but, owing to the 
curious topographical position of this 
valley, explained in the Introduction 
to this Section, the Col at its head 
does not cross the main chain of the 
Alps, but leads simply to Cesanne, 
at the foot of the Mont Genevre, and 
not many miles distant from the 
Mont Cenis. The Chisone valley, 
with the three glens of its tributary, 
the Gerjnanasca, abounds in beautiful 
scenery, and well rewards some days 
devoted to exploring their recesses, 
and the ranges that enclose them. 
Indeed, a visit to the Waldensian 
Valleys is singularly incomplete if 
at least the Massello glen is not seen, 
as well as those of the Pellice 
and Angrogna. The Chisone valley 
is also called Val di Perosa as far as 
the Bee Dauphin, then Val de Fenes- 
trelles as far as that spot, next Val de 
Pragelas to Les Traverses, and finally 
Val Troncea thence to its source. 

The road from Pinerolo to Cesanne 
enters the Chisone valley proper a 
short distance before reaching the 
village of Porte (3 m.) One mile 
further it passes close to some very 
extensive quarries at Malanaggio. 
The gneiss, which is developed here 
on a great scale, is extremely varied 
in its mineral structure, and some of 
the beds furnish stone which is highly 
valued for architectural use. Huge 
blocks have been extracted for the 
columns of a recently built church on 
the Po, and other public buildings in 
Turin. Advancing farther up the 
valley, the gneiss gives place to a 
schist, composed almost exclusively 
of black mica ; and at various points 
in the ranges which enclose the 
valley, especially on the Col d' 



ll'Assietta, serpentine appears in large 
masses, and seems to have modified 
the mineral character of the rocks 
which it approaches. One mile be- 
yond, just about the place where the 
valley turns from the W. to the N.W., 
the Vaudois hamlet of San Germano 
is seen on the opposite bank, niched 
in a hollo w in the mountain-side, 
and above it that of Pramollo. (For 
the routes past these villages to 
Torre Pellice, or Perrero, see Rte. C. 
I.) After passing Villar Perosa the 
village of Pinasca is reached. (From 
these two villages mule paths lead 
over the Col di Ce7-esera and the Col 
del Besso in 6 hrs. to Giaveno, on the 
Sangone torrent, and I hr. from the 
Avigliana station, on the Mont Cenis 
railway (§ 7. Rte. A), or 2 hrs. from 
Turin by a direct steam tramway, 
the ascent of the Mont Freidour 
(1,445 m 'j 4'74 J a splendid 

belvedere, taking but ^ hr. from the 
former pass.) Eleven miles from 
Pinerolo is 

Perosa Argentina (627 m., 2,057 ft.), 
or Perouse, a small town, but the 
most considerable in the valley, with 
several industrial establishments. 
There is a fort here, for till 17 13 it 
was the first Piedmontese town this 
side of the French frontier. It stands 
opposite the opening on the W. of 
I the Germanasca valley, which, with 
its three branches, is described in 
detail in Rtes. C, D, and E. 

The road, which has risen but 
221 m. (725 ft. ) since leaving Pinerolo, 
I mounts considerably in the next por- 
tion of the valley, and the Alpine 
region is entered on. A short way 
from Perosa the valley narrows, while 
above are seen on a promontory on 
the right the ruins of Bee Dauphin, 
the old fortress which marked the 
frontier of Dauphine till 1713. For 
! by the Treaty of Utrecht, made in 
I that year, an alteration was made in 
I the singular state of things by which 
for long the king of France, as heir 
of the old Dauphins, held certain 
valleys on the E. slope of the Alps, 
I while the House of Savoy held that 



72 COTTIAN ALPS. I. § 5. 

of Barcelonnette. By that treaty the 
last-named valley was handed over to 
France, which on its side ceded the 
valleys of Casteldelfmo, Fenestrelles, 
and Exilles, thus making the Alps 
the political as well as the natural 
frontier. It is said that even now 
the French tongue retains the pre- 
dominance over the Italian in that 
part of the Chisone valley above Bee 
Dauphin. 

For a long period the Vaudois were 
not permitted to settle on the right 
bank of the Chisone valley, being re- 
stricted to the valleys of the Pellice 
and the Germanasca, with their side 
glens. But since 1848 all religious 
disabilities have been removed, and 
many of them have settled on the 
left bank of the valley of Fenestrelles, 
besides others who have been attracted 
to Turin. In spite of the considerable 
ascent in this portion of the valley it 
enjoys a high temperature, and the 
mulberry flourishes up to Fenestrelles, 
though the vine is said to appear only 
below Bee Dauphin. The valley 
widens out after Bee Dauphin, and 
becomes exceedingly picturesque, 
chestnut trees and meadows and 
forests being shut in by high and bare 
mountain slopes. Several villages are 
traversed — Mean, Ronre, Mento idles 
— all, like the road, on the left bank 
of the Chisone, as throughout the 
valley. (From the second of these 
there is a mule track across the Col 
del la Roussa, 2,017 m -> 6,618 ft., on 
the N.E. to Giaveno, in 6-7 hrs., but 
there is also a military char road over 
the pass, starting direct from Fenes- 
trelles. ) Beyond Mentoulles the 
magnificent forest of Chambon is 
seen on the other side of the river. 
At length in 9 m. from Perosa the 
traveller, who has for some time seen 
the fortifications, reaches by an iron 
drawbridge Fenestrelles (1,150 m., 
3? 773 ft.), a poor little town which 
crouches under the imposing works of 
the celebrated Fort, which is, it will be 
recollected, the scene of M. Saintine's 
touching romance of ' Picciola. 5 This 
Fort is supposed to be one of the 



WALDENSIAN VALLEYS 

strongest, as it certainly is one of the 
most considerable, near the frontier 
between France and Italy. The works 
rise one above another in successive 
tiers on the steep N. slope of the 
valley, the highest battery being 
gained by a covered staircase, in 
which there are 3,600 steps. Four 
detached forts command the ap- 
proaches, and nothing that military 
science could suggest has been neg- 
lected in defence of this route into 
Italy. The fortifications date from 
18 1 6, though remains of older ones, 
constructed in 1693 to defend the 
approaches from the Piedmonteseside, 
when the valley belonged to France, 
and destroyed by the French in 1796, 
are still to be seen. To the S.W. 
towers up the Mont Albergian 
(3,040 m., 9.974 ft.), and to the S.E. 
the Mont Folitri (3,081 m., 10,009 
ft.) (For the Col d' Albergian, at the 
S.E. foot of the former, leading over 
to the Massello glen, see Rte. F. ) 

One mile beyond Fenestrelles a 
road leads up to the hamlet of 
Usseaux, half hidden amidst larches. 

[Hence two easy passes give access 
to the valley of the Dora Riparia at 
or near Susa. One is the Col des 
Fenitres (2,215 m -> 7? 2 ^7 ft*)> on ^ e 
N. E. , over which a military char road, 
the numerous zigzags of which can be 
cut off by means of the old mule path, 
leads in 5-6 hrs. to Susa. It is an 
extremely agreeable and interesting 
walk, the view from the summit com- 
manding the peaks on either side of 
the Mont Cenis Pass. The other is 
the Col deW Assietta (2,472 m., 
8,111 ft.), far to the N.W., and 
reached by a mule path which makes 
a long traverse to the Assietta glen, 
gained more directly from the hamlet 
of Pourrieres, in the Chisone valley. 
By this route Chiomonte, a little 
S.W. of Susa, and on the Mont Cenis 
railway, may be reached in 6 hrs. 
from Fenestrelles. This is a very 
interesting expedition. The summit 
is a plateau of considerable extent, 
which was repeatedly the scene of 
military operations in the wars be- 



ROUTE B. PINEROLO TO CESANNE 



73 



tween France and Piedmont. In 
particular the Piedmontese here drove 
back the French forces on July 19, 
1747, an obelisk on the hillock S.W. 
of the pass commemorating this feat 
of arms. The remains of redoubts 
are seen in many places, while in a 
depression of the plateau, called the 
Vallon des Moris, the bodies of many 
hundred brave men lie buried.] 

Above Fenestrelles the valley be- 
comes more Alpine in character. The 
hamlet of Pourrieres is about half- 
way between that town and Pragelas 
(7 m. from Fenestrelles), and 1 m. 
further is Les Traverses (1,605 m., 
5,266 ft.), the highest village in the 
Chisone valley. 

[From Pragelas and Les Traverses 
two easy mule passes lead over in about 
4 hrs. past Sauze d'Oulx to Oulx, on 
the Mont Cenis railway (§7. Rte. A). 
One is the Col de Coteplane (2,313 m., 
7,589 it.), traversed by the Vaudois 
in 1689, and the other is the Col de 
Bourget (2,284 m -> 7>494 ft.)j tne 
most convenient for a traveller who 
wishes to go from Oulx to the Massello 
glen — see Rte. F. below — in one 
day. J 

The road now leaves the valley of 
the Chisone, which continues S. by 
the Troncea glen, through which 
there are passes to those of the Ripa, 
Massello, and Rodoretto (see Rtes. 
E and F). Several great zigzags are 
followed by a steady rise along the 
mountain slope, the huts of Sestrieres 
being seen below, till the pasture 
plateau of the Col de Sestrieres 
(2,021 m., 6,631 ft.) is attained. 
Besides the neighbouring peaks and 
the Pelvoux, the cone of the Mont 
Chaberton, on the W., is very con- 
spicuous, while S.E. of the pass is 
the rocky peak of the Rognosa de 
Sestrieres (3,279 m., 10,758 ft.), the 
culminating point of the Waldensian 
Valleys. 

[From the little inn, called the 
Baraccone, just below the Col on the 
Cesanne side, this commanding 
summit may be climbed without any 
difficulty in 3 hrs. or less. The way 



lies up the Chisonetto glen to the 
second notch on the W. of the peak, 
the Basso San Giacomo of the Italian 
map, whence the W. ridge is 
followed, but the N.W. face can be 
climbed direct. The ascent is very 
stony, but the panorama from the 
summit is most magnificent, including 
nearly the whole of the S.W. and 
Pennine Alps, with Turin, and many 
of the villages round the peak. Few 
summits so easily accessible command 
so splendid a view. J 

The road descends gently on the 
other side of the pass, gains by two 
great zigzags the village of Ckamplas 
du Col (1,770m., 5,807 ft.), below 
which is Sauze de Cesanne, at the 
entrance of the Ripa glen (see § 6. 
Rte. B), and long continuing on 
the grassy mountain-side high above 
the Ripa torrent finally descends by 
two great zigzags to (10 m. from Les 
Traverses, or 39 m. from Pinerolo) 

Cesanne (1,350 m., 4,459 ft.), 
whose red -roofed houses have been 
seen below for some time. This 
village stands at the meeting of the 
Dora and Ripa torrents, which here 
unite to form the Dora Riparia. 
The former flows from the Mont 
Genevre (§ 6. Rte. A), at the Italian 
foot of which Cesanne is built (12 m. 
from Briancon), the zigzag road up to 
the pass being well seen during the 
descent from the Col de Sestrieres, 
while 5 m. below Cesanne is Oulx, a 
station on the Mont Cenis railway to 
Turin (§ 7. Rte. A). Cesanne thus 
occupies a very important topo- 
graphical position, and its neighbour- 
hood will be more fully described in 
§ 6. Rte. A, the passes leading hence 
to Abries in § 6. Rte. B, and those to 
the Prali and Rodoretto glens in 
Rtes. D and E, below. 



COTTIAN ALPS. I. § 5. WALDENSIAN VALLEYS 



Route C. 

TORRE PELLICE OR BOBBIO TO 
PEROSA. 

The great mountain spur which 
runs N.E. from the Brie Bouchet 
separates the Val Pellice from the 
Prali glen of the Germanasca valley, 
this spur enclosing at its E. end the 
hollow of Pramollo. Hence there 
are several ways of reaching Perosa, 
in the Chisone valley, over this ridge. 
Good walkers will prefer to cross the 
Punta Cournour, perhaps taking the 
Pra del Torno on the way. 

I. By the Val Angrogna. — Just 
N. of Torre Pellice there opens the 
very beautiful Angrogna glen, up the 
left side of which a rough char road 
leads, partly through splendid chest- 
nuts, to San Lorenzo d? Angrogna 
(f- hr.), and continues as a mule path 
past Serre to the lovely and famous 
amphitheatre of pastures enclosed by 
rocks, called the Pra del Torno 
(1^-2 firs. ), celebrated in Vaudois 
history. The scenery can hardly be 
surpassed for the combination of rich 
forest vegetation, bold rocks, and 
sparkling torrents, and this is the 
most agreeable, and indeed the indis- 
pensable, excursion to make from 
Torre Pellice. 

There are several ways from the 
Angrogna glen to the Chisone valley 
more or less near Perosa. The 
easiest is the mule path which leads 
in about 2 hrs. from San Lorenzo by 
the Colletta (888 m., 2,913 ft.) to 
Porte. But a more interesting way, 
(a mule track) starts from Serre, and 
crosses the fine pastures of Vaccera 
by the Col delta Vaccera (1,500 m., 
4,921 ft.) to Peumeano, Pramollo , 
and San Germano, in 5-6 hrs. A 
much longer route is to mount from 
Pra del Torno by a mule path to the 
Col Seiran (1,827 m -> 5>994 ft«)> 
above the chalets of that name, and 
then (instead of descending N.E. to 
Pramollo and San Germano) to follow 
a path along the crest of the ridge 



(partly covered with forest) between 
the Pramollo hollow (easily gained 
hence) and the lower Germanasca 
valley : this ridge is called the Costa 
di Lazzara, and from it the way 
descends to Riclaretto, whence paths 
lead right towards Perosa past Poma- 
retto, and left to Perrero past Faetto. 
It is said that 9- 10 hrs. are required 
from Torre Pellice to Perosa by this 
route. A more direct route to Perrero, 
though very steep and toilsome (not re- 
commended), crosses the ridge at the 
very head of the Val Angrogna by the 
Pas so delV Infernetto (2,351 m., 
7,714 ft.) The descent hence is 
rough and stony, passing the lake and 
huts of Lanson, and the hamlets of 
Roccia and Faetto, before reaching 
Perrero, which is 9 good hours' walk 
by this route from Torre Pellice. 

By bearing S.W. from the Pra del 
Torno the chalets of Giasset are 
reached, from which there is a new 
military mule path across the Passo 
del Rons (2,661 m., 8,731 ft.) to the 
basin of the Tredici Laghi, whence 
another military path descends direct 
to Prali ; a third runs N. along the 
W. slope of the range between the 
Prali and Faetto glens till S. of the 
Rocca Bianca, 2,379 m., 7,805 ft. 
(a white dolomite point, easily 
reached hence, and commanding a 
fine view), it passes to the E. slope 
and so goes down to Perrero. It is 
possible to go from the Faetto glen 
by the Babna chalets across this 
range S. of the Rocca Bianca, and so 
reach Prali in about 4-5 hrs. from 
Perrero, while from the head of that 
glen the Porta delta Cialancia 
(2,691 m., 8,829 ft.) gives access to 
the basin of the Tredici Laghi in 
about 5-6 hrs. from Perrero. 

[This basin or plateau (where there 
is now an Italian military station), 
accessible from so many sides, and 
best in \\ hr. from the hamlet of 
Ribba, at the head of the Prali glen, 
is the most convenient spot whence 
to ascend the Punta Cournour 
(2,868 m., 9,410 ft.), the highest 
point on the great spur running N. E. 



ROUTE D. GERMANASCA VALLEY 



75 



from the Brie Bouchet. It takes 
about | hr. from its base by the N. 
ridge, or an easy 3 hrs. from Ribba, 
since from the first of the Tredici 
Laghi to the base of the peak about 
I hr. is required. The view is 
naturally confined to the neighbour- 
ing ridges and valleys, but is the best 
to be obtained from any point in the 
very heart of the Waldensian Valleys. 
It is easy to descend in I hr. to the 
Julien huts, whence it is 2 hrs. more 
down to Bobbio. 3 

2. By the Col Julien {or Giulian). 
— This route leads from Bobbio to 
Prali. Formerly a bad mule path 
crossed the pass, but a good one 
has recently been made, so as to 
connect Bobbio with the military 
station at Tredici Laghi. The old mule 
path mounted steeply N.W. from 
Bobbio above the left bank of the 
Cruello torrent, which runs in a wild 
gorge below. The way is stony and 
rough. In about 3 hrs. the Julien 
chalets are gained, and I hr. more 
leads to the pass (2,547m., 8,357 ft.), 
which commands a fine view of the 
Viso. The descent lies down debris ; 
the route of the Col d'Abries (Rte. 
D) is joined at Ribba, and Prali 
gained in 2 hrs. from the pass. The 
char road thence to Perrero and 
Perosa is described in the next Rte. 



Route D. 

PEROSA TO ABRIES BY THE 
GERMANASCA VALLEY. 

Opposite Perosa is the opening of 
the Germanasca Valley, also called 
the Valley of St. Martin, through 
which the united torrents of three 
Alpine valleys are poured into the 
Chisone. These unite f m. above 
Perrero, which is 5 m. from Perosa 
by char road, and flow from the Prali 
glen, with its tributary the Rodoretto 
glen, on the S. W., and from the Mass- 



ello glen" (specially called the valley 
of St. Martin) on the N.W. To 
complete our account of the Walden- 
sian Valleys some notice must be 
given in this and the two following 
Rtes. of these three glens, and of the 
chief passes that lead from them. 

The char road on leaving Perosa 
crosses the Chisone and mounts the 
main Germanasca valley past Poma- 
rettO) with many substantial buildings 
of various kinds, all belonging to the 
W^aldensians, and built amidst charm- 
ing surroundings. Beyond, the road 
passes through a narrow rock gorge, 
on issuing from which the various 
hamlets forming St. Martin are seen 
above on the right, while Riclaretto 
and Faetto (whence various routes 
lead to the Val Angrogna : see last 
Rte. ) are seen on the opposite side of 
the valley. The road winds round a 
promontory, behind which quite un- 
expectedly the traveller arrives at the 
hamlet of 

Perrero, 832 m., 2,730 ft. (5 m. 
by road from Perosa, or about 2 hrs. ' 
walk), consisting of a single street of 
rather wretched houses, squeezed in 
between the mountain-side and the 
roaring Germanasca. Here resided 
the late Dr. E. Rostan, an excellent 
botanist, to whom the Editor (J. B.) 
was indebted for valuable information 
as to the district. 

I m. W. of Perrero is the meeting 
of the two main branches of the 
Germanasca. The torrent from the 
N.W. branch, that of the Massello, 
is crossed, and the mule path thither 
(Rte. F) left on the right, a rough 
char road, used for the transport of 
the white marble, blocks of which 
may be seen scattered about, mount- 
ing S.W. along the left bank of the 
Germanasca. In about ij-hr. , after 
passing through a wild gorge, the 
road leaves the path to Rodoretto 
(Rte. E) on the right, and in \ hr. 
more emerges into the green basin of 
Prali, the largest hamlet in which, 
La Villa (1,372 m., 4,501 ft.), is 5m. 
by road from Perrero, or about 2 hrs. ' 
walk. (Hence a low pass leads by the 



?6 COTTIAN ALPS t § 5. 



WALDENSIAN VALLEYS 



chalets of Galmont in a -short hour 
over to the village of Rodoretto. ) 

The scenery of the upper part of 
the Val Germanasca is very fine and 
wild. From La Villa the char road 
continues up the valley past Cugno 
and Gbigo, the chief village of the 
valley, to J hr. below Pome, or Pom- 
miers (1,500 m. 5 4,921 ft.) Here 
the ways to the principal passes at 
the head of the valley part. That to 
the Col Julien (Rte. C. 2) lies to the 
S. E. , while there and higher up the 
S.W. arm of the glen respectively 
those to the Cols della Longia 
(2,812 m., 9,226 ft.) and Frappier, 
2,725 m., 8,941 ft. (both leading to 
Cesanne by the Ripa glen) branch off 
to the W.S.W. The mule way to 
the Col d'Abries (the notch of which 
can be seen from Ghigo) continues to 
the S.W. above the left bank of the 
torrent. 

[There is a longer track, which 
mounts from Giordan, near Pome, 
as a char road to the hamlet of 
Ribba, on the Col Julien route, and 
thence mounts as a mule path above 
the right bank of the torrent, only 
uniting with the way described on 
the French side of the Col d'Abries. 
By bearing slightly to the W. after 
mounting zigzags to the buttress 
between the Germanasca and the 
Miniera torrents, it is easy to gain 
the chalets of Bois du Col (1,686 m. , 
5,532 ft.), where the track to the Col 
by the left bank of the former stream 
is joined. J 

At a point beyond the last chalets 
(Roccias) where the track bifurcates 
care should be taken to keep to 
that on the left hand (the other 
mounts high up to some pastures 
on the right), by which in about 
3-3 J hrs. from Prali the more 
northerly of the two notches that con- 
stitute the Col d'Abries, de Prali, or de 
St Martin (2,650 m., 8,695 is 
attained. It is marked, as it is fre- 
quented even in winter, by a boundary 
stone, bearing the French and Savoy- 
ard arms, as well as by two cairns. The 
view includes the neighbouring sum- 



mits with Rochebrune, the Sommet 
des Rouies, and Chaillol, besides 
Monte Rosa. There is a small tarn 
just below the pass on the French 
side. 

The mule path on the French side 
is straightforward. Some way down 
it crosses to the left bank of the tor- 
rent, and winds through the Bois de 
Mamozel, round the W. end of the 
spur projecting W. from the Brie 
Bouchet, and above the hamlet of 
La Moniette. The village of Le Roux 
is reached in about \\ hr. from the 
Col, and below it is the chapel of 
St. Barthelemi, where our way joins 
that from the Val Preveyre (see Rte. 
A. a), and crossing to the right 
bank of the stream follows it till .it 
recrosses at A brie s, f hr. from Le 
Roux, 2\ hrs. from the Col, or about 
9jhrs. from Perosa. 



Route E. 

PEROSA TO CESANNE BY THE 
RODORETTO VALLEY. 

It was pointed out in the last Rte. 
that about 1 \ hr. beyond Perrero the 
way to the Rodoretto glen of the 
Germanasca branches off from that to 
the Prali glen of the same valley. 
From this spot a mule path mounts 
towards the village of Gardiola, but 
before reaching it bears to the left to 
enter the small village of Villa di 
Rodoretto, 1,429 m., 4,689 ft. (ij 
hr. ), where the traveller is surprised 
by the sight of a Roman Catholic 
church standing opposite aWaldensian 
or Protestant ' temple, 5 a spectacle 
rarely seen in the Alps save in this 
district. 

[From Rodoretto one track leads 
over a ridge on the N. in 1^ hr. to 
the chief village of the commune of 
Salza, and Champ de Salse, opposite 
Massello, in the glen of that name, 
while another leads S. over a second 



ROUTE E. PEROSA TO CESANNE 



77 



ridge to the La Villa hamlet of Prali 
In a short hour. J 

The footpath continues up the 
Rodoretto valley above the left bank 
of the torrent past several hamlets to 
the chalets (beyond the hamlet of 
that name) of Balma, 1,877 m -> 
6,158 ft. (I J hr.) Here the way 
over the Col della Valletta (2,690 m., 
8,826 ft.) to the Troncea glen, and so 
to Les Traverses at the Pinerolo foot 
of the Col de Sestrieres (Rte. B), 
bears to the W. (a very long and cir- 
cuitous route to that spot). But to 
reach Cesanne the path above the 
left bank of the Rodoretto torrent 
must be mounted in a S.W. direction 
for yet i| hr. to the Col de Rodoretto, 
2,774 m., 9,101 ft. (4 J hrs. from 
Perrero). The Viso and Turin are 
visible from the pass, but Prali, Pome, 
Les Traverses, the Tredici Laghi, 
and Mont Clapier, in the Maritime 
Alps, may be seen in addition by 
following the ridge S.E. for I J hr. to 
the summit of the Punta Vergia 
(2,990 m., 9,810 ft.), a point which 
seems much nearer the pass than it 
really is. 

A slope of stones leads down to 
pastures. The way from the Col La 
Mayt (§ 6. Rte. B) is joined before 
entering the hamlet of Argentiera^ 
and the Ripa torrent (one of the two 
branches of the Dora Riparia) 
followed throughout its length to the 
village of Sauze de Cesanne (1,531 m., 
5,023 ft.), at its entrance, and below 
the high road from the Col de 
Sestrieres (Rte. B). Thence a char 
road (mainly along the left bank of 
the Ripa) runs past Bonsson, at the 
mouth of the Thurres glen (§ 6. Rte. 
B), to Cesanne^ at the foot of the Col 
de Sestrieres (Rte. B) and of the 
Mont Genevre (§ 6. Rte. A). At 
least 4! hrs. are required to go from 
the Col to Cesanne, which is thus 
II hrs.' walk from Perosa. 



Route F. 

PEROSA TO PRAGELAS OR FENES- 
TRELLES BY THE MASSELLO 
VALLEY. 

Owing to the peculiar fashion in 
which the Chisone (itself enclosed 
similarly by the Dora Riparia) en- 
closes the Massello valley ; the passes 
which lead from it all bring the 
traveller to some part of the upper 
Chisone valley. Hence the routes 
through this valley involve a great 
detour, but they lead through some of 
the finest scenery of the district, and 
over ground which is of interest to 
the historian (the name of the Bal- 
siglia need only be mentioned to show 
this) as well as to the naturalist. 

As stated in Rte. D the mule track 
up the Massello valley quits the char 
road towards Prali f m. (J hr.) be- 
yond Perrero, after crossing the 
bridge over the Massello torrent. 
The path follows the clear stream of 
that torrent along its right bank, and 
crosses it under the little hamlet of 
Baissa, the chief hamlet of the com- 
mune of Ma?iiglia, high up on the N. 
slope of the valley. It then winds 
through a most picturesque ravine, 
one of the prettiest spots in the 
Waldensian Valleys, on issuing from 
which it reaches the union of the 
Salza torrent on the S.W. with the 
main stream. The path on the left 
climbs up to the hamlets of Salza and 
Cha?np de Salse, 1,405 m., 4,610 ft. 
(for the way thence to Rodoretto see 
last Rte.), at the latter of which is 
the residence of the Waldensian pastor 
of Massello, Signor J. J. R. Tron, 
whom the present Editor (W. A. B. C. ) 
has to thank for much courtesy, and 
for open-handed hospitality, which is 
freely extended to any travellers who 
may pass this way. The path on the 
right leads up to Massello (1,185 m -> 
3,888 ft,), where is the Waldensian 
'temple' (ij- hr. or more from 
Perrero), Beyond, on the way a fine 
view of the head of the glen being 



78 COTTIAN ALPS. L § 5. WALDENSIAN VALLEYS 



gained, is the hamlet of Gros Passet, 
perched on a rock above the stream, 
and about 1 hr. from Massello is the 
village of Bahiglia (1,380 m., 
4,528 ft.), opposite the entrance of 
the Chinivert glen. 

[From the village 3 J- hrs. suffice to 
mount in a S.W. direction to the Col 
du Chinivert (2,803 m., 9,197 ft.), 
leading over to the Troncea valley ; a 
further ascent of 1^ hr. from the Col 
by the S. ridge brings the traveller to 
the summit of the Brie Chinivert 
(3?°37 m -5 9*964 ft.)> a f me view 
point. 3 

Opposite and above the right bank 
of the stream is the strange and 
picturesque natural rocky fortress of 
the Balsiglia or Balsille, where the 
Waldensians entrenched themselves 
in August 1689 on their ' Glorieuse 
Rentree,' and defied the troops of 
France and Savoy in May 1690. It 
is well to climb up to this natural 
fortress by the steep path, in order to 
realise more vividly this remarkable 
feat of mountain warfare. After 
Ortiere, the last hamlet, is passed the 
glen becomes very bare and savage, 
and many zigzags wind up the rugged 
mountain-side to the Lauson huts, 
1,891 m., 6,204 ft- ( J i nr 0 

[From these huts about 4 hrs. suf- 
fice to attain the Mont Politri 
(3,081 m., 10,009 ft.), on the N., past 
the Lac du Vallon ; it is also accessible 
in 3 hrs. from the Albergian huts, on 
the Fenestrelles side of the pass of 
that name. J 

The track then runs W. over pas- 
tures to a curious cairn of some size, 
with steps formed by projecting 
stones (J hr.) It is at the upper 
edge of the fine waterfall, 30 m. 
(q8 ft.) high, here formed by the 
stream, and of a dreary upland plain 
where the routes to the various passes 
at the head of the valley diverge. 

1. To the S. is the Col delF Arcano 
(2,787 m., 9,144 ft.), reached in 
2 J- 3 hrs. from Balsiglia, and leading 
in 3^ hrs. more to Les Traverses, on 
the Col de Sestrieres road. 

2. To the N. a well-marked mule 



track branches off soon after the great 
cairn, and runs N. by zigzags over a 
shoulder (it is rather longer to circle 
round its base) to the Col <T Albergian 
(2,701 m., 8.862 ft.), also 2J-3 hrs. 
from Balsiglia. It is guarded by a 
line of entrenchments, and plays an 
important part in Waldensian history. 
The view hence includes many of the 
great Dauphin e peaks, while the 
fortifications of Fenestrelles are im- 
! mediately at the spectator's feet. But 
\ the panorama is far more extensive, 
; including, in addition to the peaks 
I mentioned, the Viso and the Cham- 
! beyron summits, from the Mont 
A Ibergian ( 3 , 040 m. , 9, 974 ft. ) , which 
| rises on a spur some way N. of the 
j pass. It may be gained thence in a 
! good hour by way of a faint track 
! which traverses a great stone slope, 
and leads past a cairn on the S. ridge 
of the peak to the great cairn which 
crowns the topmost point. The mule 
track from the Col descends the 
Albergian glen, and at the chalets 
of that name bears sharply to the 
N.E., attaining Fenestrelles in 2 J 
hrs. or less from the pass. 

3. A traveller bound for the head 
of the Chisone valley should, from the 
curious cairn, follow the track over the 
upland plain, first to the N.W., then 
nearly due W., in order to gain the 
Coi du Piz (2,606 m., 8,550 ft.), 
2§-3 hrs. from Balsiglia, which crosses 
the ridge at the very head of the 
Massello valley. The view includes 
most of the great Dauphine summits, 
such as the Ecrins, the Meije, the 
Pelvoux, the Aiguilles d'Arves, &c. 
This was the last pass crossed by the 
Waldensians on their ' Glorieuse 
Rentree ' in 1689. 

The path on the other side of the 
Col soon divides ; that to the right 
leads to Pragelas, and that to the left 
to Les Traverses, either being gained 
in 1 1 hr. or a little more, the route 
to Pragelas being stated to be slightly 
the longer of the two. About %\ hrs. 
thus suffice for the walk from Perosa. 



§ 6. GENEVRE DISTRICT 



79 



SECTION 6. 

GENEVRE DISTRICT. 

It was remarked in the Introduction 
to this Chapter that the main ridge 
of the Cottian Alps, when looked at 
from the Italian side, makes a salient 
angle, whose apex is the Mont 
Thabor. Of two of the main rivers 
of the South-Western Alps— the 
Durance and the Dora Riparia — the 
former rises on, and the latter 
receives an important affluent flowing 
from, the flanks of that mountain. 
Both the Durance, which drains the 
W. or outer side of the angle, and 
the Dora Riparia, descending from 
the inner or E. face, divide towards 
their origin into several streams, the 
general direction of which is parallel 
to the chain which separates them. 
Thus the Durance, the main source 
of which is the Clairee, receives near 
Briancon the Guisane, flowing from 
the N.W., and the Cerveyrette, 
flowing from the S.E. By a nearly 
similar arrangement the main source 
of the Dora Riparia, the Ripa, is 
swollen near Cesanne by the Tkurres 
torrent, and near Oulx receives the 
considerable stream formed by the 
union at Bardonneche of the torrents 
from the Vallee Etroite and the 
Vallee de Rochemolles. This un- 
usual disposition of the valleys, 
which, instead of radiating from the 
main ridge of the Alpine chain, form 
a series of trenches parallel to it, 
corresponds to the portion of that 
chain which has the lowest mean 
elevation, and which, excepting only 
the great breach indicated by the 
valley of the Adige, has the lowest 
passes over the range between the 
Mediterranean and Carniola. The 
Mont Genevre (1,854 m., 6,083 ft.) 
is the lowest of the carriage roads 
across the main chain, and the Col 
des Echelles de Planpinet (1,760 m., 
5,774 ft.) the lowest pass across 
the main chain of the Alps (save 
the two great gaps between the Adige 
and Inn valleys), and would un- 



doubtedly have been the main 
channels of communication between 
France and Italy, if the valley of the 
Durance were not divided from that 
of the Rhone by the great mass of 
the Dauphine Alps. 

In the present Section we include 
the valleys on the French slope of the 
main chain, the passes from which 
lead to the road over the Mont 
Genevre at some point between 
Cesanne and Briancon, or, in other 
words, the French valleys lying N. 
and S. of that pass. These all touch 
the main chain, and it is convenient 
to take in also the Vallee Etroite, on 
the Italian slope. Roughly speaking, 
the Queyras on the S., the Mont 
Thabor on the N., the Col du 
Galibier on the W. , and the Col de 
la Vallee Etroite on the E. mark the 
boundaries of the district described 
in this Section. 

The loftiest peaks in it are Roche- 
brune (3,324 m., 10,906 ft.) and the 
BricFroid (3,310 m. , 10,860 ft. ), both 
S. of the Mont Genevre Pass, and the 
Roche du Grand Galibier {3,242 m., 
10,637 ft.), and the Mont Thabor 
(3,182 m., 10,440 ft.), with the Pic 
du Thabor (3,205 m., 10,516 ft.), 
N. of that pass. 

Besides the guide-book by Signori 
Martelli and Vaccarone, and that 
in the ' Guides Miriam ' series, both 
mentioned in the Introduction 
to this Chapter, Joanne's large 
'Savoie' (1895) and M. Henri 
Ferrand's ' La Frontiere Franco- 
Italienne ' (Grenoble, 1894) should 
be specially consulted for the N. 
portion of this district. It should al- 
ways be remembered that, as Briancon 
is one of the most strongly fortified 
towns in France, while the Mont 
Genevre, owing to its immense 
strategical importance as the key to 
Turin, has recently been protected by 
considerable military works by the 
Italians, the traveller should be very 
careful as to making sketches or notes, 
or taking photographs, in these 
regions, as the 4 spy mania ' is very 
prevalent on both sides of the frontier. 



8o COTTIAN ALPS. I. § 6. GENEVRE DISTRICT 



Route A. 

OULX TO BRIANCON BY THE MONT 
GENEVRE. 

M. 

Cezanne ... 5 
Clavieres ... 9 
Mont Genevre . .10 
La Vachette . 15 
Briancon . . .17 
Diligences daily in about 5 hrs. 

Oulx is a station on the Mont 
Cenis Railway (§ 7. Rte. A), 7 m. 
below Bardonneche, and46f m. above 
Turin. It is a large village situated 
at the junction of the Bardo7ineche 
torrent with the Dora Riparia, and 
owes its historical and military im- 
portance to this fact, for it thus com- 
mands the roads over the Mont 
Genevre and the Col de Sestrieres, 
as well as the Frejus Tunnel, and the 
numerous easy passes across the main 
range in its neighbourhood, while 
even easier and shorter passes lead 
over to the head of the valley of the 
Chisone (§ 5. Rte. B). It has been 
identified with the Ocelum of the 
ancients, and was for many centuries 
the seat of a powerful and wealthy 
Benedictine abbey. 

The high road from Oulx towards 
the Mont Genevre mounts gently 
along the right bank of the Dora 
Riparia, at first through fertile 
meadows, then through a rocky 
gorge, on issuing from which the 
hamlet of Fenils is seen amidst 
splendid trees, and at the entrance of 
a deep ravine. This part of the 
valley is very interesting to a botanist. 
Astragalus austriacus, Prunus bri- 
gantiaca, Centrantkus angustifolius, 
and other very rare species are found 
in the valley, and the Alpfne ranges 
on either side are not less rich. The 
Dora is crossed as the road enters 

Cesanne (1,359 m., 4,459 ft.), a 
village at the junction of the road 
from the Col de Sestrieres (§ 5. 
Rte. B), and of the paths over several 
passes from Perosa by the Prali and 
Rodoretto valleys (§ 5. Rtes. D and 



E), from Abries (Rte. B. below), and 
from Cervieres (Rte. C. I. below). 
It is pleasantly situated, and is 
coming into fashion as a summer 
resort for Italian families flying from 
the heat in the plains. Signor 
Piolti's monograph on this village 
and its neighbourhood in the 1 Bollett- 
ino ' of the Italian Alpine Club for 
1886 should be consulted by any 
traveller meditating a stay here. 

The high road from Cesanne to the 
Mont Genevre soon crosses the 
stream of the Piccola Dora, and 
mounts by two great zigzags along 
the slopes of loose debris that cover 
the S. flank of the Mont Chaberton. 
(Pedestrians can take the old mule 
path which leaves the road as this 
crosses the stream, and mounts 
through a gorge to Clavieres, this 
gorge being, perhaps, that traversed by 
Hannibal and his army.) In this 
way the E. end of the undulating 
plateau which forms the pass is gained 
at the Italian hamlet of Clavieres 
(1,768 m., 5,801 ft.) 

[For the Col de Gimont to 
Cervieres, see Rte. C. I. below. J 

Some drawbridges and an Italian 
fort are passed on the way. The 
road mounts very gradually and 
crosses the frontier before reaching 

, the summit of the pass (1,854 m. , 
6,083 ft*)> marked by an obelisk 
commemorating the completion of 

\ the road in 1807. Just beyond is the 
first French village, Botirg Moyit 
Genevre ( 1,860 m., 6,103 ft.), with an 
ancient Hospice. 

The mere fact that two permanently 
inhabited villages exist on the wide 
plateau which forms the pass will 
strike the traveller, and make him 
realise the special importance of the 
Mont Genevre. Not merely does it 
cross the main range from E. to W. , 
unlike most of the other great Alpine 
passes, but the plateau has a southern 
exposure, while the pass is veiy short, 
the only obstacle being the gorge on 
the Italian side. Hence one is not 
surprised to find that it has been 

! known for many cjnturies 3 bearing 



ROUTE A. OULX TO BRIANCON BY THE MONT GENEVRE 81 



the name of Mons Matrona in Roman 
times, and later of Mons Janus and 
Mons Geminus, whence no doubt the 
present name is derived. In the 
opinion of many scholars (such as 
Gibbon, Desjardins, and Fuchs) as well 
as of Dante it is the pass which best 
fulfils the requirements laid down by 
the historians who describe the 
passage of Hannibal, while in more 
modern times it has been frequently 
traversed by armies, as in 1494, 
1629, 1747, 1814, and 1859. 

£N.E. of the pass rises the solitary 
and conspicuous cone of the Mont 
Chaberton (3,135 m., 10,286 ft.), 
which commands a very extensive 
view, and is easy of access, though it 
is stated that the Italian military 
authorities now forbid travellers 
(probably those coming from the 
French side) to make the ascent, as it 
is wholly in Italian territory, and 
commands a view of the new fortifi- 
cations. The Col de Chabert07i 
(2,670 m., 8,760 ft.), to its N.W., 
connects the Baisses (or Ruzsseau Sec) 
glen with that of Fenils. Through 
the former glen (reached from France 
by mounting a side glen to the Col 
de fAlpette) the Col may be reached 
in 2-3 hrs. from Bourg Mont Genevre, 
or Clavieres, while through the latter 
it is attained in 3^ hrs. from Fenils, 
near the road between Oulx and 
Cesanne. From the Col it is a short 
hour to the great cairn on the sum- 
mit. On the Col the botanist will be 
glad to find the rare Berardia sub- 
acaulis. 

By keeping high up on the pastures 
on the right side of the Baisses glen, 
and traversing stone slopes, it is 
possible to reach in 2| hrs. from 
Bourg Mont Genevre — almost 
entirely through Italian territory — 
the Col des T}-ois Freres Mineurs 
(2,586 m., 8,485 ft.), on the frontier. 
It takes its odd name from several 
towers of rock on the ridge, the 
largest of which is marked by the 
arms of France and Savoy, with the 
date 1823. The Col can, of course, 
be easily gained by any one descending 
I. 



from the Chaberton itself. On the 
French side great boulders, pastures, 
and forests lead down in about an 
hour to the green hollow in which 
nestle the chalets of Acles, whence 
f hr. more by a path high above the 
right bank of the Acles torrent suffice 
to descend to the village of Planpinet, 
in the Clair ee valley (see Rte. D). 
A gentle ascent due S. of Bourg 
Mont Genevre, over pastures and past 
one of the sources of the Durance, 
leads in 1 J hr. to the low and easy 
Col die Gondran, whence a steep 
descent down curious reddish burnt 
rocks, a small tarn, and some chalets 
gives access in ij hr. more to 
J Cervieres, see Rte. C.J 

The descent from Bourg Mont 
Genevre is made by six long and 
well-engineered zigzags through a 
forest, fine glimpses beirg gained 
from time to time of Brianccn and 
the remarkable series of forts which 
girdle it. The base of the descent 
is reached at Les Alberts, and a little 
beyond is the hamlet of La Vachette, 
at the entrance of the Clairee valley 
(Rte. D). (Pedestrians may cut ofr 
j the zigzags, and rejoin the road at 
La Vachette. ) 2 m. further by a road 
partly cut into the rocky mountain- 
side high above the right bank of the 
stream is 

Brianeon (1,321 m., 4,334 ft.), a 
\ small though very ancient town, and 
| a fortress of the first class. The old 
i town is confined within the fortifica- 
tions, fenced by walls, and is very 
picturesque within and without. It 
is built on a high plateau at the 
meeting of the Clairee and the 
Guisane, which here unite to form 
the Durance. To the S.W. in the 
plain is the suburb of Ste. Catherine, 
with silk carding factories and the 
railway station. There is nothing in 
the town to attract a stranger, its 
principal feature being the magnificent 
series of fortifications which surround 
it, and thus command the Lautare 
and Genevre roads, as well as the 
Clairee and Durance valleys. The 
chief forts are on the slopes E of 

G . 



82 COTTIAN ALPS. I. § 6. GENEVRE DISTRICT 



the town. The highest, that of 
Infernet) is constructed on a point 
2,380 m. (7,809 ft.) in height, or 
over 1,000 m. (3,281 ft. ) above the 
town. 

Briancon is the centre of a con- 
siderable passenger traffic. Besides 
the Mont Genevre, leading into Pied- 
mont, there is the road over the Col 
du Lautaret (§ 8. Rte. A), leading by 
Bourg d'Oisans to Grenoble, or from 
the Col itself by the Col du Galibier 
(§ 8. Rte. B) to St. Michel, in the 
Maurienne valley (§ 7. Rte. A), while 
the railway to Grenoble by Gap (§ 9. 
Rte. Q) runs from Briancon at first 
down the Durance valley. The 
intercourse with Savoy is carried on 
mainly by the Mont Genevre and the 
Frejus Tunnel, though travellers will 
prefer the Galibier, and mountaineers 
the various routes through the Clairee 
valley described in Rte. D. below. 
The direct passes from Briancon to 
the Queyras valley are noticed in 
Rte. C. below, and the quaint pass 
of the Col des Echelles to Bardon- 
neche in Rte. E. The lofty moun- 
tains of the Pelvoux group W. of 
Briancon are included in § 9. 

The neighbourhood of Briancon 
abounds in rare plants. Amongst 
them may be mentioned Astragalus 
austj'iacus and A. vesicarius, Oxy- 
tropis Halleri, Prunus brigantiaca, 
Telephiu7?i Imperati, Brassica re- 
panda, Berardia subacaulis ', Rhapon- 
ticum heleniifolium, Crepis pygmcea, 
Androsace septentrionalis, and Bulbo- 
codium vewmm. 



Route B. 

ABRIES TO CESANNE. 

The villages of Abries (§ 4. Rte. B) 
and of Cesanne (§ 6. Rte. A), on the 
French and Italian side respectively 
of the main ridge of the Cottians, 
stand alike at the meeting point of 
many valleys, so that it is in the 



fitness of things that at least two 
passes should lead from one to the 
other. These start from the head of 
the same valley near Abries, but on 
the other side descend through two 
parallel glens, which meet at Bousson, 
near Cesanne. 

1. By the Col la May t.— Mule 
path. At the upper end of the village 
of Abries a bridge is crossed to the 
right bank of the Valpreveyre stream, 
which is followed for f hr. till it re- 
crosses to the chapel of St. Barthelemi, 
on the other bank, at the entrance to 
the Valpreveyre (§ 5. Rte. A. a). A 
zigzag path leads up to the hamlet of 
Le Roux, at which, avoiding the 
higher path, which winds round to the 
Col d'Abries (§ 5. Rte. D), a lower 
path must be followed up the Colon 
glen to the chalets of La Montette^ at 
the entrance of the Gayet glen (f hr. ) 
Thence the mule path leads in a 
slightly N.E. direction over pastures, 
stones, and snow to the pass, 
2,700 m., 8,859 ft. (if hr., or 3 J hrs. 
from Abries. ) Abries is visible from 
the pass, which is marked by one of 
the usual boundary stones, bearing the 
French and Savoyard arms. 

On the Italian side a track leads 
down along the left bank of the 
torrent, and gradually bears round to 
the N.W., joining that from the Col 
de Rodoretto (§ 5. Rte. E) before 
entering the hamlet of Argentiera 
(1,897 m., 6,224 ft.) The path 
follows the same bank of the Ripa 
(the main source of the Dora Riparia) 
till it crosses near the village of 
Sauze de Cesanne, at the foot of the 
Col de Sestrieres, whence a char road 
leads past Bousson, at the entrance 
of the Thurres glen, to Cesanne, 
which is reached in about 4 hrs. from 
the Col. This pass is more round- 
about, and less interesting, but easier, 
than the Col de Thurres. 

2. By the Col de Thurres. — Mule 
path. The route is identical with 
that described above as far as La 
Montette (ij hr.) The bridge is 
then crossed, and the fine pastures of 
the Val Fourane mounted in a N. W. 



ROUTE C. ABRIES TO BRIANCON 



S3 



direction to the stony ridge of the 
Col, 2,810 m., 9,220 ft. (if-2hrs., 
or 3J-3I hrs. from Abries.) 

[The view from the Col is very fine, 
but is excelled by that from the Brie 
JTroid. If merely crossing the pass, 
it is well to make for this ridge at a 
point somewhat to the S.W. But if 
bound for the Brie Froid, 3,310 m., 
10,860 ft. (called Punta Ramiere on 
the Italian map), it is best to bear 
rather more to the N. by stony 
slopes to a lonely hollow whence the 
ridge is struck much nearer the peak. 
Thence it takes about J hr. walking 
over easy stones to gain the cairn on 
the summit (3 \ hrs. from Abries 
direct, or \ hr. extra if the round be 
made by the true Col). The peak 
may also be climbed direct from the 
Thurres glen on the W., and also 
from the Ripa glen by gaining the 
N.W. ridge close to the summit. In 
the experience of the present writer ( W. 
A. B. C.) there is, perhaps, no other 
minor peak in the Alps, so very 
easy of access, which commands so 
extensive and magnificent a panorama. 
Without any exaggeration it may be 
said to include the whole of the 
Western and Central Alps from the 
Mont Clapier, in the Maritimes, 
through the Viso and Chambeyron 
groups, the great Dauphine peaks, 
the principal summits of the Graians, 
and the chain of Mont Blanc to 
Monte Rosa, and even ranges far 
beyond it. Several villages in the 
Ripa glen, and towards the Col de 
Sestrieres, are also visible. No one 
making the stay of even a day at 
Abries should, if the weather be fine, 
neglect to make this ascent, which 
can be accomplished thence in 5 hrs. 
up and down by a good walker. J 

The descent on the Italian side of 
the Col is straightforward, and the 
Thttrres (Turras) huts ( 1,955 m *j 
6,414 ft.) are attained in ij hr. 

[Hence, or rather from the first 
bridge above, the two loftiest points 
in the rocky range separating the 
Thurres and Ripa glens, the Roc del 
Boucher (3,285 m., 10,778 ft.), and 



the Punta Ciataguiera (3.258 m., 
10,689 ft.), can be climbed in about 
4 hrs.jf 

About an hour lower, after having 
passed a fine waterfall in the gorge on 
the left, and the prettily situated 
hamlet of Ruilles, is the village of 
Thurres ', the path running high above 
the right bank of the torrent. In 
\ hr. more Bousson, at the junction of 
the Thurres glen with that of the 
Ripa, is reached, and thence a char 
road leads in § hr. to Cesanne, which 
is thus 3f hrs. from the Col, or 7~7|- 
hrs. from Abries, so that there is 
plenty of time to take the Brie Froid 
on the way. 



Route C. 

ABRIES OR CHATEAU QUEYRAS TO 
BRIANCON. 

The shortest and most convenient 
way from the Queyras valley to 
Briancon is, of course, the carriage 
road to Guillestre ( § 4. Rte, B),. and 
thence the railway to Briancon § 9. 
Rte. Q). But there are at least two 
easy mountain passes, the routes from 
which meet at Cervieres, 6 m. by road 
above Briancon, and which have the 
advantage that they may easily be 
combined with the ascent of the two 
highest summits between the Queyras 
valley and Briancon. 

1. By the Col de Malrif.— Easy 
foot path. The Malrif ravine joins 
the Guil valley a little below Abries, 
but the huts of that name may be 
gained direct from that village by 
mounting past the 'Calvary,' and 
then rounding a corner by a path 
high above the gorge. The path 
continues high above the stream, 
gradually bearing to the N.W. till, in 
a little plain below the last ascent, 
there is a bridge across the torrent. 
The final ascent is steep, though in no 
way difficult, and the pass (c. 2,800 m., 
G 2 



84 COTTIAN ALPS. I. § 6. GENEVRE DISTRICT 



9,187 ft.) is attained in 3! hrs. from 
Abries. (It is also possible to bear far to 
the W. before reaching the bridge at the 
head of the Malrif ravine, and pass by 
a cross and a considerable lake before 
gaining the ridge much nearer Roche- 
brune than the proper Col.) The 
view from the pass includes the Viso, 
Chambeyron, and Dauphine peaks. 
But it can be very much extended by 
walking along the ridge to the N.E. 
in a short hour to the cairn on the 
Grand Glayza, 3,286 m., 10,781 ft. 
(called Punta Merciantairo, on the 
Italian map. ) This peak may also be 
gained from the Col des Terres Rouges, 
on the N.W., the best route for those 
who wish to make the ascent from 
Cesanne direct. The view extends 
from the Maritimes to the Tarentaise, 
Cesanne, as well as Ristolas and La 
Chalp, in the upper Guil valley, being 
seer. If this summit be combined 
with the pass it is not necessary to go 
back to the Col before striking down 
to the Cerveyrette valley. The descent 
from that point or the Col is less 
steep than the ascent on the other 
side, and i\ hr. suffices to reach the 
chalets of Les Fonds (2,060 m., 
6,759 it.), at the junction of the mule 
rack from Chateau Queyras by the 
Col de Peas, 2,645 m -> 8,678 ft. 
(3 hrs. from one spot to the other.) 
The way then lies down the pretty 
pasture valley of the Cerveyrette, a 
char road commencing at Les Chalps, 
20 min. from Les Fonds. Near Le 
B our get a great marshy plain com- 
mences, above which, on terraces to 
the N., are groups of chalets. At 
one of these, Lachau, just where the 
valley bends from N.W. to W., the 
mule tracks from the Col de Bousson, 
2,130 m., 6,989 ft. (from Cesanne), 
and the Col de Gimont, 2,402 m., 
7,881 ft. (from Clavieres, on the Mont 
Genevre plateau) — both requiring 
about 7 hrs. to Briancon — fall in. 
From the W. end of the plain some 
zigzags down debris slopes lead in 
£hr. to Cetvieres (see under 2), which 
may be reached in 3-3! hrs. from the 
Col, or 6J-7 hrs. from Abries. 



I 2. By the Col d'Izouard. — Char 
j road all the way. The scenery 
I through which this convenient new 
road runs is wild and singular rather 
than grand, but the region traversed 
is in many ways interesting, especi- 
ally to a naturalist. The name is 
sometimes spelt Hyzoar, or Lsoar. 

About I m. below Chdteati Queyras 
(§ 4. Rte. B), in the Guil valley, the 
char road up the Riviere or Arvieux 
glen quits the high road in that 
\ valley, and mounts N.W. through a 
I narrow gorge to the chief hamlet, 
! Arvieux (1^ hr. walk, or 4 m.), 
where many old traditional usages 
are still preserved. La Chalp, the 
: residence of the devoted pastor, Felix 
; Neff (see § 9. Rte. L), is passed 
(1 m.) before the last village (Jm.), 
Brunissard (1,785 m., 5,857 ft.), is 
attained (1 hr.) 

[Hence the Col des Ayes (c. 2,500 
m., 8,202 ft.) leads in about 6 hrs. 
from Chateau Queyras direct to 
Briancon. J 

Leaving on the left the N.W. fork 
of the valley, up which lies the way 
to the Col des Ayes, the new military 
road mounts by many zigzags nearly 
due N. to the Col d'Izouard, 2,388 m., 
7,835 ft. (3 J hrs. on foot from 
Chateau Queyras). 4 The last part 
of the ascent is exceedingly wild and 
curious, the road winding through 
vast masses of perfectly bare rock of 
bright red and reddish-yellow sand- 
stone, now worn down into im- 
mense screes, now varied by 
immense blocks of fantastic shapes, 
chiefly needles, but often the most 
grotesque and irregular pillars. The 
scene was perfectly solitary and silent, 
and very weird and striking ' (E. L. ) 
The view includes a portion of the 
snowy peaks of Dauphine, as well as 
of the distant peaks between Ceillac 
and Malj asset. A short way down 
the other side is a 6 Refuge Napoleon,' 
or small mountain inn. 

[This is the best starting point for 
the ascent of Rochebrune (3,324 m., 
10,906 ft.), the highest peak in this 
region, and most conspicuous on 



ROUTE D. BRIANCON TO ST. MICHEL 



85 



the descent from the Col du Lautaret 
to Briancon, whence it is sometimes, 
indeed, mistaken for the Viso itself. 
There is a Club hut nearer the peak, 
but good walkers will not need to 
use it. From the Refuge the Col 
Perdu i on the E., is crossed to the 
great slope of stones called the Casse 
des Oules, by which the S.W. foot of 
the peak is gained in 2 hrs. from the 
Refuge. Thence a scramble up a 
gully filled with loose stones gives 
access to the gap between the two 
summits, the wooden cross on that to 
the left, or E., being gained by some 
steep rocks in about I J hr. from the 
foot. The view is extensive, but 
presents no special feature, unless it 
be Monetier with a long stretch of 
the Lautaret road. The ascent is 
perfectly easy, but stony and 
fatiguing. 3 

The descent from the Col dTzouard 
on the N. side is far less barren than 
that on the other side, the road 
descending over fine pastures past 
the hamlet of Le Laus in a due N. 
direction to Cervieres , i,7°° m -? 
5,578 ft. (l| hr.'s walk). 

This village is in a little plain at 
the meeting of the Izouard glen with 
the main Cerveyrette valley (see 
above), while due N. is the Col du 
Gondran (Rte. A), by which Bourg 
Mont Genevre can be reached in 
under 3 hrs. 

The valley of the Cei"ueyreite runs 
nearly due W., and the road is cut in 
the rock high above the right bank of 
the stream. The rocky slopes preserve 
throughout the same arid character, 
though there is abundance of water 
in running streams, some of which 
form pretty waterfalls close to the 
road. On issuing from the narrow 
gorge the road winds under the great 
forts down to the suburb of Ste. 
Catherine, just below Briancon, 6 m. 
from Cervieres. 



Route D. 

j BRIANCON TO ST. MICHEL BY THE 
CLAIRES VALLEY. 

It is often said (and the French 
Government maps sanction this idea) 
that the true sources of the Durance 
[ are on the Mont Genevre, but from a 
I scientific view the Clairee, as the 
longest of the streams which unite to 
make up that river, has superior 
claims, and the true sources of 
the Durance are the lakes on the 
E. side of the Col des Rochilles, at 
the N.W. corner of that valley. The 
Clairee joins the Guisane and the 
Mont Genevre streams at Briancon, 
after having watered the very con- 
siderable valley of Nevache — one of 
the freshest and prettiest in the 
Brianconnais — which is the subject of 
the present Rte. 

There is a char road from La 
Vacketfe, 2 rn. from Briancon on the 
Mont Genevre road (Rte. A), to 
Nevache (12 m. from Briancon). 
From La Vachette the char road 
mounts gently along the right bank 
of the Clairee to the village of Val 
des Pres (5 m. from Briancon), where 
it crosses to the left bank, along which 
it runs, always in a N. direction, to 
the hamlet of Planpinet (1,496 m., 
4,908 ft.), which is but 175 m. 
(574 ft. ) above Briancon. The valley 
bed is stony, but is lighted up by 
I fields, pastures, and forests on all 
sides. 

£For the Col des Echelles de 
Planpinet hence to Bardonneche see 
next Rte. , and for the Col des Trois 
Freres Mineurs to Bourg Mont 
Genevre see Rte. A. above.] 

Near the point, a little above Plan- 
pinet, where the route to the Col des 
Echelles mounts to the N., the 
Clairee valley bends to the W. , and 
soon the very prettily situated village 
of N6vache (1,641 m., 5,384 ft.) is 
reached. It is made up of many 
hamlets, the principal of which is the 
Ville Haute. Its church, which dates 
from the end of the fifteenth century, 



86 COTTIAN ALPS. I. § 



6. GENEVRE DISTRICT 



is worth a visit. The S. slope of 
the valley is clothed with splendid 
forests. 

[Many passes start from Nevache. 
For the Cols de Buffere and. de 
Cristol to Monetier see § 8. Rte. A. 
On the N. the Col des Tkures 
(2,283 m -> 7 » 49° ft-) an d the Col de 
PEtrott du Vallon (2, 504 m. , 8, 2 1 6 ft. ) 
lead over in about 3 hrs. to the 
highest chalets in the Vallee Etroite, 
where the night is often spent before 
the ascent of the Mont Thabor (see 
next Rte. ), and which are on the way 
over the Col de la Vallee Etroite 
from Modane to Bardonneche (§ 7. 
Rte. C. i),] 

Beyond Nevache the mule track 
mounts first along the left side, then 
along the right side, of the valley, 
which gradually turns towards the 
N.W. It is very smiling and pretty, 
with many groups of chalets, but the 
path is rather stony, and inclined to 
meander, though well marked. On 
the way the opening of the Qiieyrellin 
glen on the W. is passed : through 
it 4 hrs. or so suffice to go from 
Nevache by the Col du Chardonnet 
(2,600 m., 8,531 ft.), well known to 
botanists, to Le Lauzet, on the 
Lautaret road (§ 8. Rte. A). In 
about 2 hrs. from Nevache the highest 
group of chalets, those of Laval 
(2,028 m., 6,654 ft.), are reached. 
The path continues along the left 
bank of the Clairee to the head of the 
valley, which forms a great stony 
hollow (| hr.) On the N.E. the 
Col de Laval leads over towards the 
Mont Thabor (see next Rte.), 
while to the N. the Col de la Made- 
leine gives access to the Valmeinier 
glen (see next Rte.), and so to St. 
Michel in 8 hrs. from Nevache. 

More interesting to mountaineers are 
the two following passes in the N.W. 
corner of the glen, both leading to 
Valloire, on the Col du Galibier route 
(§ 8. Rte. B), and so to St. Michel. 

1. By the Gol de P Aiguille Noire. 
— This pass crosses the ridge at the 
N.W. corner of the valley, and may 
be gained from the great hollow in 



1 about an hour (3! hrs. from Nevache) 
J by way of a steep stony slope. It is 
I just E. of the double -peaked Aiguille 
Noire (2,892 m., 9,489 ft.), a rocky 
summit which makes a great show, 
especially from the N. It is, however, 
easily accessible from the Col in a long 
hour by way of the E. and S.E. ridges, 
and a short gully on the N.E. face, 
leading to the gap between a minor 
pinnacle to the S. and the true top, 
which is reached by the S. ridge. N. 
of the latter, but distinctly lower, is 
the great rock tower which seems the 
summit when looking from the N. 

The descent from the Col lies over 
stones to the pastures at the head of 
the Plagnetta glen, the path on the 
right side of which is followed past 
many chalets till at those of Le Desert 
it crosses, in order to wind down 
through a forest to the hamlet of 
Tigny, just above Valloire, which is 
reached in 2 J hrs. or less from the 
pass, or 6 hrs. from Nevache. Val- 
loire is 10 m. by road (2% hrs. — § 8. 
Rte. B) above St. Michel. 

2. By the Col des Rocliilles.— The 
track to this Col bears gradually W T . 
from the great hollow at the head of 
the Clairee valley, and mounts steeply 
past the Lac de la Clairee and over an 
old moraine to the Lacs Rond and 
du Gros Ban, just W. of which is. 
the grassy ridge of the Col des 
Rochilles {not E. , as shown on the 
French Government map), 2,451 m., 
8,042 ft., 2 J hrs. from the great 
hollow, or 4J hrs. from Nevache. 

[Just N. of these two lakes is the Col 
de la Plagnetta (2,728 m., 8,951 ft.), 
accessible in 10 min. by a sheep path, 
and leading in about 2\- 3 hrs. 
more through the Plagnetta glen to 
Valloire. 

Just S. of the two lakes is the Col 
des Cerces (§ hr. ) — E. of the figures 
2,887 m « on tne French map — 
whence another half-hour leads down 
to the fair-sized Cerces lake (c. 2,350m., 
7,710 ft.) To the E. and S.E. of this 
tarn there is a very little known 
group, badly figured on the French 
map, so that an intending explorer 



ROUTE E. BRIANCON TO BARDONNECHE 



S7 



should study Mr. Coolidge's map and 
article in the 17th volume (1891) of 
the ' Annuaire de la Societe des 
Touristes du Dauphine.' The first 
point, the Come des Blanchets 
(3,023 m. , 9,918 ft.), which really rises 
immediately E. of the Col des Cerces, 
and overlooks both the Rochilles and 
the Cerces lakes, as well as the 
Clairee valley, may be climbed in I hr. 
from the Col des Cerces by way of its 
easy N. ridge. But S. E. of the Come 
des Blanchets rises the higher and 
more imposing Pointe des Cerces, 
This is recognised from the W. by 
the curious purple hue of its rocks and 
sand. From the Cerces lake it is 
necessary to mount by stones and 
steep rocks to the lower edge of a 
considerable snow-field, keeping to 
the N. of the precipitous rock-wall. 
Thence a short ascent to the N. leads 
to the summit (2 hrs. from the Cerces 
lake). As this peak is certainly 
higher than any other in the neigh- 
bourhood, and seems to be about as 
high as the Mont Thabor, its height 
may be roughly taken to be 3,180 m. 
(10,434 ft.) The view extends from 
the Viso to Mont Blanc. S. of this 
peak, and at the point where the 
ridge from the Col de la Ponsonniere 
joins that bounding the Clairee glen 
on the W., rises a peak (2,936 m., 
9,633 ft.) which may be called Pointe 
des Beraudes, from the tarn of that 
name at its E. foot, while still further 
S. is the Pic de la Mouliniere 
(3,098 m., 10,165 ft-)> both these 
summits being, it is believed, still un- 
climbed, at any rate by travellers. 3 

W. of the grassy ridge of the Col 
des Rochilles is a muddy basin, 
apparently the bed of an old lake, 
and beyond it the low ridge of the 
Col de la Pare (sometimes wrongly 
thought to be the proper Col des 
Rochilles) is traversed. A zigzag 
path leads down past the Pare chalet 
to those of La Motte [\ hr. from the 
true Col), where the route from the 
Col de la Ponsonniere leading over 
from Le Lauzet (§ 8. Rte. A) is 
joined. 20 min. suffice to gain the 



high road of the Col du Galibier 
(§ 8. Rte. B), by which it is 2 hrs. 
to Valloire, which is thus nearly 3 
hrs. from the Col, or 7J-8 hrs. from 
Nevache. 



Route E. 

BRIANCON TO BARDONNECHE BY 
THE COL DES ECHELLES. ASCENT 
OF THE MONT THABOR. 

It was pointed out in the In- 
troduction to this Section that the 
Col des Echelles de Planpinet (1,760 
m. , 5, 774 ft. ) is the lowest pass across 
the main chain of the Alps, excepting 
only the two great gaps which lead 
from the valley of the Adige to that 
of the Inn. The Echelles offer little 
difficulty, and it is simply owing to 
international jealousies that a char 
road or mule path has not been 
carried over this pass, or a tunnel 
pierced beneath it, in order to con- 
nect Briancon and Grenoble with the 
Mont Cenis line. A mule can tra- 
verse the whole distance save the 
6 Echelles. ' 3 J hrs. suffice for a 
pedestrian to go from Nevache or 
Planpinet to Bardonneche. The char 
road runs along the mountain slope 
from near Nevache above the Clairee 
to the chapel of Notre-Dame de Bonne 
Rencontre, where the direct path from 
Planpinet falls in. Many paths tra- 
verse the pastures, which are followed 
through a sort of hollow way past the 
two small Custom houses to the open- 
ing of the pass proper. On the N. 
side of the pass the Aiguille Rouge, 
or Guglia Rossa (2,550 m., 8,366 ft.), 
resembles ; a gigantic tower. (It is 
accessible in an hour from the French 
Custom house, or from the Col des 
Thurres on the N. , in each case by 
the ridge, while from the Col des 
Echelles itself it can be climbed in 
2\ hrs. direct up the E. rocky wall, 
I skirting on the right the conspicuous 



ss 



COTTIAN ALPS. I. § 6. GENEVRE DISTRICT 



turret of red rock. ) The descent on 
the N. side of the pass is made in part 
by a picturesque flight of steps (the 
' Echelles ') cut in the rock, below 
which a steep path descends S.E. to 
the chalets of Pla?i du Col (1,440 m., 
4,725 ft.), where the track from the 
Col de la Vallee Etroite (§ 7. Rte. C. 
1) is joined, and followed along the 
left bank of the stream of that name 
past the hamlet of Melezet to Bardon- 
neche. 

Ascent of the Mont Thabor.— The 
topographical importance of this 
famous summit has been pointed out 
in the Introductions to this Chapter 
and this Section. It is very accessible 
from all sides, and is most favourably 
situated for a panoramic view of the 
Western Alps. The summit is a large 
ridge on which a mass of masonry has 
been built to mark the political 
frontier. On the French side is the 
great cairn (3, 182 m. , 10,440 ft. ) built 
in 1822, and on the Italian side is the 
chapel of Notre-Dame de Bon Secours 
(3,177 m., 10,424 ft.), where on the 
festival of St. Bartholomew (Aug. 24) 
and the following Sunday Mass is said 
annually, and is attended by many 
pilgrims from both Savoy and Pied- 
mont. The view includes the Grandes 
Jorasses, the Matterhorn, the Grande 
Casse, Pourri, Charbonel, Ciamarella, 
and Viso, but is particularly note- 
worthy for the splendid prospect of all 
the great Daupbine peaks. 

£ At one point the view is broken 
by the sharp rocky summit known as 
the Pic du Thabor (3,205 m., 10,516 
ft.), which was first vanquished in 
1878 by Mr. Coolidge. The de- 
pression between the Mont and the 
Pic, or the Col du Thabor (3,123 m., 
10,247 ft«)j ma y be reached from the 
cairn by debris, ice, and rotten rocks, 
and thence it is but 20 min. scramble 
by a rocky gully on the S.E. face 
and shattered rocks to the summit of 
the Pic. 2 

There are many routes by which 
the Mont Thabor may be reached, 
that first described being the favourite. 

I. From Bardonneche. — The route 



] of the Col de la Vallee Etroite (§7. 
I Rte. C. 1 ) is followed to the highest 
j chalets in the Vallee Etroite, 1,774 m., 
j 5,820 ft. (where it is usual to pass 
I the night in order to secure a clear 
I view), 2.\ hrs., and for some distance 
j further, to a bridge (here the char 
road ends) where the valley forks at 
the S. foot of a fine rocky mass called 
Rocs Sauvours, Rocche del Seru, or 
the Muande (2,890 m., 9,482 ft.) 
The easiest way (mules go to within 
an hour of the chapel) mounts round 
the E. side of this summit, but 
pedestrians will prefer to mount 
' round its W. side, the path being 
j rough and stony. The tracks rejoin 
; on a plateau, the Col delle Muaiide, 
I N.W. of the peak mentioned, and 
! then a paved path marked by several 
j crosses mounts above the pretty little 
| Peyron lake up yielding wet shale 
and snow, the chapel being always 
visible. 3^ hrs. suffice from the huts 
in the Vallee Etroite. 

2. From Moda7ie. — The usual way 
j is to gain the Col de la Vallee Etroite 
; (§7. Rte. C. 1) in 4 hrs., and thence 
! to traverse stony slopes to the plateau 

or Col delle Muande, N.W. of the 
Rocche del Serii, where the above 
I route is joined. 2\ hrs. are said to be 
I required from the Col to the summit, 
j A much more interesting way for a 
; mountaineer is to reach the Thabor 
j by the considerable glacier which 
! covers its N. flank. This may be 
: attained by bearing W. from the head 
1 of the glen leading up on the French 
side to the Col de la Vallee Etroite, 
but the more direct way would be 
from the La Praz station, between 
Modane and St. Michel by way of 
; the Bz'ssorte glen, as to which in- 
formation is much wanted. 

3. From Nevache. — By beaiing 
N.E. at the head of the Clairee valley 
(see Rte. D) the Col de Laval may 

I be attained in 4 hrs. from Nevache, 
; and thence a track leads on one side 
' or the other of the S.W. ridge of the 
! Thabor to the summit (2 hrs.) 
i Another way is to go from Nevache 
j to the Col de la Madeleine, at the very 



§ 7- AMBIN DISTRICT 



S 9 



head of the Clairee valley (4 hrs.), 
and then to rejoin the Col de Laval 
route near the Col de Valmeinier 
(see below). 

4. From St. Michel.— The Val- 
meinier stream joins the Arc just 
opposite St. Michel, and the mule 
path up the Vahneinier glen bears 
to the left from that to Valloire 
(§ 8. Rte. B) soon after crossing the 
Arc. It mounts steeply by zigzags 
to the chief hamlet of Valmeinier, 
1,594 m., 5,230 feet (i| hr.), and 
then runs up the right side of that 
glen, crossing and recrossing the 
stream before passing under the 
chapel of Notre- Dame des Neiges 
(2,190 m., 7,185), perched on a 
promontory. A little beyond are 
the last chalets, those of Les Bar- 
mettes (2 J hrs. ) A steep path then 
mounts past a small lake and leads in 
a S.E. direction to the Col de Val- 
meinier, a well-marked depression 
on the S.W. ridge of the Thabor 
(2^ hrs.), whence a great zigzag on 
the French side of the frontier ridge 
leads up again to the S.W. ridge itself, 
along which the summit is reached 
( 1 hr. ) 7-7| hrs. should be allowed 
for the ascent from St. Michel, so 
that it is best to spend the previous 
night in one of the higher chalets. 
From the head of the Valmeinier it 
is possible to mount E. by a rock- 
strewn slope, a long couloir of shifting 
debris, and some steep rocks to the 
Col du Thabor (between the Mont 
and the Pic), the Mont being then 
reached direct by rotten rocks, an 
ice slope, and more shifting debris. 



SECTION 7. 

AMBIN DISTRICT. 

In the Introduction to this Chapter it 
was noted as a curiosity that more or 
less extensive glacier-clad mountain 
masses exist in the Cottian Alps only 



at the two extremities of that range — 
in the Chambeyron and the Ambin 
districts. But in the last-named dis- 
trict we find that the region of eternal 
snow is nearly confined to the further 
or E. portion of it, that which im- 
mediately adjoins the plateau of the 
Mont Cenis. Hence, while the dis- 
trict to be described in this Section 
appropriately takes its name from that 

1 snowy mass, by a singular anomaly 
the two points in which its ranges 
culminate are in its W. portion — the 
Aiguille de Scolette, or Pierre Memie 
(3,505 m., 11,500 ft.) — the loftiest 
summit in the entire Cottian chain, 
save the Viso itself and the Viso di 
Vallante — and the Rognosa d^Etache 

I (3> 3S5 m., 11,106 ft.) Thus the 

j fragment of the Alpine chain with 
which we have at present to deal 
naturally forms two groups, that of 
Scolette and that of Ambin {Dents 

I d? Ambin, 3,382 m., 11,096 ft.), the 
Rognosa d'Etache rising between 
them, though here included, for the 
sake of convenience, in the latter 

I group, to which it does not strictly 
belong. It so happens that a number 

I of easy passes lead over the range 

I between the Mont Thabor and Sco- 
lette, so that the Scolette Group may 

I be described in a single Rte. (C), 
while the fact that many passes tra- 
verse the Ambin Group from one 
valley on the French slope to no less 
than three on the Italian side renders 
it necessary to devote two Rtes. (D 

j and E) to that region. We have also 
to describe in this Section the Frejus 
Tunnel (sometimes wrongly called the 
Mont Cenis Tunnel) through the 
Alps (Rte. A), as well as the great 
road over them which crosses the 
Mont Cenis (Rte. B). Roughly 
speaking, it may thus be said that 
this Section includes the country 
between the Tunnel and the Pass, 
though, strictly speaking, the W. 
limit is formed by the Col de la Vallee 
Etroite, just E. of the Mont Thabor. 

Both the groups mentioned have 
formed the subject of monographs by 
Mr. Coolidge, which were published 



90 



COTTIAN ALPS. I. § 7. AMBIN DISTRICT 



in the 3rd and 4th volumes of the 
' Revue Alpine,' of Lyons. M. Fer- 
rand's 4 La Frontiere Franco-Ita- 
lienne' (Grenoble, 1894), Joanne's 
i Savoie ' (1895), and vol. i. of Signori 
Martelli and Vaccarone's indispensa- 
ble ' Guida delle Alpi Occidentali ' 
(Turin, 1889) may also be consulted. 
Modane, Bardonneche, and the inn 
on the Mont Cenis are the best head- 
quarters, while the Savine chalets are 
very conveniently placed for the ex- 
ploration of the higher peaks of the 
Ambin group, as are those of Etache 
(on the Italian side of the divide) for 
the Rognosa, and the minor summits 
of that group. 



Route A. 

CHAMBERY TO TURIN BY THE 
FREJUS TUNNEL. 



M. 

Montmelian ... 9 
St. Pierre dAlbigny . 15 \ 
La Chambre . . -38 
St. Jean de Maurienne . 44 
St. Michel de Maurienne. 51J 
Modane . . . .61 
Bardonneche . . .72 
Oulx . . . -79 
Bussoleno . . . 97 J 
Turin .... 125^ 



Railway in 7-8 J hrs. 

For many centuries the most fre- 
quented route across the Western 
Alps was that through the valley of 
the Arc, or Maurienne, and over the 
Mont Cenis. This was partly due to 
the comparative easiness and direct- 
ness of the way, and partly to the fact 
that from the eleventh century on- 
wards Savoy and Piedmont were 
under the same rulers, so that com- 
munications between them were neces- 
sarily well maintained. But since the 
opening of the Tunnel in 1871 the 
Pass has been almost deserted, so 
that it is more convenient for travellers 



to describe the journey by rail before 
giving some account of the Pass. 

Chambery and its environs are de- 
scribed in § 10. Rte. A. On leaving 
that little city the railway follows a 
depression between the ranges of the 
Mont Granier on the S. W. and the 
Dent du Nivolet on the N.E., and 
bends S.E. towards the valley of the 
Isere. Even when seen under the 
disadvantages of railway travelling, 
the scenery of this part of Savoy — 
where the rich vegetation of the 
valleys contrasts with the rugged pre- 
cipices of the mountains that enclose 
them, and many a ruined stronghold 
recalls the continual warfare that was 
waged here for centuries — must inte- 
rest the passing traveller. The first 
station is that of Chignin-Les Marches 
(6 m.), whence the Abimes de 
Myans, formed by a great fall 
from the Mont Granier in 1248, 
may be visited (§ 10. Rte. B). 
3 m. further the station of Mont- 
melian is reached. It is not far from 
the Isere, and is the point at which 
the line to Grenoble through that 
valley (this bit of which is called the 
Graisivaudan) branches off (§ 10. 
Rte. B), in connection with which 
Montmelian is most conveniently 
noticed. Montmelian is a most im- 
portant strategical point, for here 
meet the routes to Chambery, to the 
Little St. Bernard (§14. Rte. G), to 
Grenoble (§ 10. Rtes. B and C), and 
to the Mont Cenis. 

The line now runs for a time to the 
N.E. at some distance from the right 
bank of the Isere, and passes the 
station of (2 J m.) Cruet (for the way 
hence to Le Chatelard, in the Bauges, 
by the Col de Lindar, see § 11. Rte. 
C. 3) before attaining that of (4 m.) 
St. Pierre d'Albigny, Here the line 
to Albertville and Moutiers (§ 12. 
Rte. A) for the Little St. Bernard 
parts from that which we are describ- 
ing, while there is also a road hence 
over the Col du Frene to Le Chate- 
lard (§11. Rte. C. 4). 

[A short distance (4 m.) from 
either St. Pierre or Cruet is the 



ROUTE A. CHAMBERY TO TURIN BY THE FREJUS TUNNEL 91 



village of Coise, very prettily situated, 
and reputed for its mineral waters, 
which contain iodine and bromine, in 
combination with magnesia, and are 
said to act as a specific for goitre. 3 

The railway soon after leaving the 
station of St. Pierre crosses the Isere, 
and after passing (2^ m. ) Chamousset, 
at the actual junction of the Arc with 
the Isere (for the road hence to 
Allevard see § 8. Rte. F. b), enters 
the valley of the Arc, which bears the 
name of the Maurienne. (This name 
is mentioned by Gregory of Tours in 
the sixth century, so that it has 
nothing to do with Moors or Saracens, 
as has been conjectured.) It is for 
the most part a savage and narrow 
gorge, with occasional basins or 
hollows in which villages have been 
built, though threatened by falls from 
the mountains on all sides. The first 
station is Aiguebelle, 6 m. from 
Chamousset. (For the Col de Mont 
Gilbert hence to Allevard see § 8. 
Rte. F. c, and for the Col de Basmont 
to Cevins see § 12. Rte. A.) 

Close to and just S. of Aiguebelle, 
on an isolated rock, is the ruined 
castle of Charbonniere, the original 
home of the Counts of Savoy. Hence- 
forward till St. Jean de Maurienne 
the line mounts nearly due S., cross- 
ing soon after Aiguebelle to the right 
bank of the Arc, which is followed 
with scarcely a break. Next comes 
Epienx (6 m.), whence several 
passes (see § 8. Rte. F. d) lead to 
Allevard. At the hamlet of La 
Chapelle the line passes through a 
short tunnel, on issuing from which 
the traveller may catch a glimpse to 
the S.W. of two pyramidal peaks, 
the Grand Clocher du Frene and the 
Grand Miceau, between which is the 
Col du Frhie, by which, or by two 
more direct passes (see § 8. Rtes. F. 
e, and H. 1), St. Remy, on the left 
bank of the Arc, between La Chapelle 
and La Chambre, may be reached 
from Allevard. Soon after the valley 
opens, and the train reaches the plain 
on which is (8 m. ) the village of La 
Chambre. There is here a Roman- 



esque church, and the ruins of another 
collegiate church, destroyed in 1792. 

^Opposite the village is the wide 
valley of the Glandon, or of Les 
Villards, through which several passes 
lead over to Bourg d'Oisans, St. Jean 
d'Arves, and Allevard, which are 
noticed in § 8. Rtes. E and H. On 
the other side of the valley the Col de 
la Madeleine (§ 12. Rte. C) gives 
access to Moutiers, in the Tarentaise.J 

Up to La Chambre the valley of the 
Arc has risen very gently, about 200 
m. (656 ft.) only from Montmelian in 
the course of 29 m. ; but higher up 
the slopes are steeper, and at St. Jean 
de Maurienne the mountain locomo- 
tives are attached to the train. The 
line and the Arc wind round the 
bases of the mountains that enclose 
the straitened valley and pass be- 
neath the tower of Berold of Saxony, 
now believed to have been the an- 
cestor of the House of Savoy, before 
entering the little plain, where, at the 
confluence of the A?-van with the 
Arc, stands, on the left bank of the 
latter river, and 6 m. from La 
Chambre, 

St. Jean de Maurienne (573 m., 
1,880 ft.), the capital of the Mauri- 
enne. It is a small city of about 
3,000 inhabitants, built on rising 
ground overlooking the floor of the 
valley. The see dates from the sixth 
century, but the Cathedral only from 
the fifteenth century. It contains 
several curious monuments, and some 
magnificent carved wood choir stalls 
of the fifteenth century, as well as an 
alabaster reliquary. The chapel of 
Notre-Dame has a porch of the thir- 
teenth century, while the cloisters of 
the cathedral deserve a visit. 

£S.W. of St. Jean the Col d'Arves 
leads over to St. Jean d'Arves, 
which may now be also gained by 
a carriage road up the Arvan glen. 
(For the passes from St. Jean d'Arves 
to Bourg d'Oisans, La Grave, and 
Valloire, see § 8. Rtes. B, C, D, and 
E. ) In the other direction the Col de 
la Platiere leads from St. Jean de 
Maurienne to Moutiers (§12. Rte.D).^ 



92 COTTIAN ALPS. I. § 7- AMBIN DISTRICT 



After crossing the Arvan, just after 
leaving the station, the railway enters 
the portion of the valley which has 
opposed the most serious difficulties 
to the maintenance of regular com- 
munications between France and 
N. Italy. The mountains which over- 
hang the valley, and especially the 
Perron des Encombres (which me- 
naces the line between St. Jean and 
St. Michel), are composed of rocks 
that yield rapidly to the weather, and 
the slopes at their base consist of 
enormous piles of debris, accumu- 
lated in the course of ages. Every 
storm brings down fresh heaps of 
sand and fine rubbish, mixed with 
larger blocks ; while at the same 
moment the swollen torrents eat into 
the half-consolidated soil of the lower 
slopes, cutting deep trenches, and 
often sweeping large masses away in 
their current. The difficulty of find- 
ing solid foundations for bridges and 
embankments, or of protecting the 
line from frequent degradation, has 
been a constant source of anxiety and 
expense. 

The line crosses and recrosses the 
Arc several times, and passes through 
several tunnels while winding through 
the narrow gorge which separates St. 
Jean from the station of (j\ m. ) 
St. Michel de Mauri enne (702 m., 
2,303 ft.) 

[On the opposite side of the Arc 
a road mounts to Valloire, thus giving 
access to several passes leading to 
La Grave, the Lautaret Hospice, 
and Briancon by the Clairee valley 
(see § 8. Rte. B, and § 6. Rte. D), 
while E. of this road is that to the 
Valmeinier, through which it is pos- 
sible to ascend the Mont Thabor 
(§ 6. Rte. E). On the N. the Col 
des Encombres (§ 12. Rte. E) leads 
from St. Michel over to Mofitiers.] 

Soon after quitting St. Michel the 
line crosses to the left bank of the 
Arc, and ascends steeply through a 
wild gorge, cutting almost perpen- 
dicularly the nearly vertical strata, in 
which beds of anthracite frequently 
occur. No fewer than eleven tunnels 



are traversed between St. Michel 
and Modane. About 3 m. from St. 
Michel the opening of the Bouchet 
glen is seen on the N. : through it there 
are several passes to Moutiers and 
Pralognan by way of the glacier-clad 
Peclet group (§ 12. Rte. F). 6 m. from 
St. Michel is the station of La Praz^ 
at the junction of the Bis sort e stream, 
flowing from the Mont Thabor (see 
§ 6. Rte. E. 2), with the Arc. 
Some way beyond the valley opens, 
the entrance of the great Tunnel is 
seen, and the train reaches the station 
of (9J m. from St. Michel) 

Modane (1,053 ™. 3 3^457 ft.), 
which is at the railway hamlet of 
Fourneaux, about J hr.'s walk from 
the old village of Modane. Here the 
customs examination of luggage takes 
place, from whichever direction the 
traveller may arrive. 

[For the road up the Arc valley 
see Rte. B, below, and § 12. Rte. B; 
for the passes from Modane to Pra- 
1 lognan see § 12. Rtes. F and G, and 
I for those to Bardonneche see Rte. C, 
1 below. The Mont Thabor is de- 
j scribed in § 6. Rte. E. 

Any one forced to make a stay at 
I Modane should not omit the stroll to 
j the chapel of Notre- Dame du Charmaix 
! (see Rte. C. 1. below). A longer 
j excursion (4J hrs. ) is to the Signal de 
\ la Norma (2,926 m., 9,610 ft.), on 
j the S.E. , whence there is a very fine 
! view of the surrounding peaks. J 

The Frejus Tunnel is pierced 
through the Alpine chain immedi- 
ately below the Pointe de Frejus (see 
Rte. C. 3. below), and is 17 m. W. 
of the pass of Mont Cenis, so that 
! it rightly bears the name of Frejus, 
and not of Mont Cenis. It is the 
earliest tunnel pierced through the 
Alps, if we except those of the 
Traversette (§ 4. Rte. B) and of 
Tenda (§ I. Rte. A). The merit of 
proposing the plan which was finally 
adopted was due to Monsieur Medail, 
I of Bardonneche, who as early as 1832 
j submitted to King Charles Albert a 
; scheme which did not differ much 
! from that ultimately carried out. But 



ROUTE A. CH AMBER Y TO TURIN BY THE FREJUS TUNNEL 93 



he died in 1850, having only lived 
long enough to see his project enter- 
tained by the Commission appointed 
in 1845 by the Sardinian Government 
to consider the feasibility of a railway 
tunnel through the Cottian Alps. 
Many difficulties were encountered 
and overcome, and in 1857 the work 
was begun by the Sardinian Govern- 
ment, France joining in the enter- 
prise in 1862. In December 1870 the 
last wall was pierced, and in Septem- 
ber 187 1 it was opened for traffic. 
The engineers were three Pied- 
montese, Signori Sommeiller (who 
died two months before the formal 
opening), Grandis, and Grattoni. 
The actual length of the Tunnel is 
8 m. , and the total cost was about 
three millions sterling. The N. en- 
trance is at a height of 1,159 m 
(3,803 ft.), while the S. mouth is 
1,292 m. (4,239 ft.) The Tunnel 
mounts for nearly 4 m. from the 
N. entrance to the culminating point 
(1,295 m., 4,249 ft.), and then de- 
scends more gently. There is a nearly 
constant draught through it, so that 
no inconvenience is felt by reason of 
imperfect ventilation by travellers, 
the transit taking about 25 min. The 
main difficulty of this great enterprise 
lay in the fact that the height of the 
mountain chain above the Tunnel 
(about 1,650 m., 5,414 ft. difference) 
made it impossible to give access to it 
by vertical shafts, which at the same 
time facilitate ventilation and mul- 
tiply the points at which work can 
be carried on. To overcome these 
two formidable objections it was 
necessary to devise machines which 
should provide more effectual means 
for ventilation than any hitherto used, 
and at the same time penetrate the 
rock more rapidly than by the ordi- 
nary process of blasting. When the 
matter was first seriously examined it 
was estimated that, even if it were 
possible for workmen to labour in a 
shaft of such depth, and in air "vitiated 
by the frequent explosion of gun- 
powder, it would have required 36 
years to accomplish the work by such 



I means as were then available. The 
I demand for new machinery led to a 
supply of ingenious projects, par- 
■ ticularly that of an English engineer, 
i Mr. Bartlett, that finally adopted 
being devised by Signori Sommeiller, 
Grandis, and Grattoni. The motive 
power was derived from a waterfall 
about 65 feet in height, by which 
atmospheric air was compressed, and 
made available in the interior of the 
Tunnel at once for ventilation, for 
piercing the rock, and for removing 
the rubbish. On the N. side the 
I system was modified, in order to use 
: the current of the Arc for motive 
power. The progress during the 
latter years surpassed expectations, 
and this great work was completed 
two years earlier than the date 
originally fixed. 

On leaving the station of Modane 
the line makes a great bend to the 
N.E. round the old village of Modane, 
and passes through one long and 
one short covered gallery before, 
about 3 m. from the station, it 
enters the Tunnel. At a very short 
distance from its S. entrance the 
station of Bardonneche (11 m. ) is 
reached. It is at a height of 1,256 m. 
(4,121 ft.), and has gathered (like 
Modane) a new village around it, the 
old village ( 1 , 3 1 2 m. , 4, 305 ft. ) being 
at a little distance to the W. The 
new village is now a favourite summer 
resort of Italians seeking to avoid the 
heat in the plains. Its position is 
agreeable and picturesque, though 
rather too close to the railway. The 
old village is overlooked by the ruins 
of an old castle, and near it are found 
several rare plants, such as Euphrasia 
lajiceolata, f?iula mo?ita?ia, Herni- 
aria incana, Hieraciu?n Lawsoni, &c. 

£As the village stands at the 
junction of several mountain streams 
passes lead from it in various direc- 
tions : those to Modane are described 
in Rte. C, below, the ascent of 
the Mont Thabor and the Col des 
Echelles to Briancon in § 6. Rte. E, 
and those to Exilles or Bramans in 
[ Rte. D, below. 3 



94 



COTTIAN ALPS. I. § 7. AMBIN DISTRICT 



The line runs S.E. down the shut- . 
in Bardonneche glen till the stream of 
that name (flowing from the Roche- 
molles valley) falls into the more 
mighty Dora Riparia not far from 
the station of (7m.) Oulx. This 
village was described in § 6. Rte. A, ; 
in connection with the Mont Genevre, 
to which, as also to the Col de Sestrieres 
(§ 5. Rte. B), it is the key. (For the 
easy passes over to the head of the 
valley of the Chisone see § 5. Rte. 
B. ) The bed of the Dora is followed 
in a N.E. direction to (3J m. ) Salber- 
trand (famous for the defeat of the 
French army here in 1689 by the 
Waldensians on the occasion of their ! 
4 Glorieuse Rentree ' into their valleys), 
and then mounts high above the right 
bank of that river, passing through 
many tunnels, and forming one of 
the great triumphs of the engineer's 
art and audacity. On the other side 
of the valley is seen the great fortress 
of Exilles (for the passes thence to 
Bramans see Rte. D. below), for the 
possession of which a fierce battle 
took place in this part of the valley 
in 1747, the French, who had held 
the whole valley as far as Chiomonte 
till, by the Treaty of Utrecht in 17 13, 
it was exchanged with Fenestrelles, 
and Chateau Dauphin for Barcelon- 
nette, being defeated by the Sardinian 
troops. In this fortress the ' Man 
with the Iron Mask 5 was long con- 
fined. 6 m. from Salbertrand is the 
station of Chiomonte (for the Col dell' 
Assietta hence to Fenestrelles see 
§ 5. Rte. B), and 9 m. further after 
passing Meana, opposite Susa, the 
level of the Dora valley is finally 
gained at the station of Bussole7to. 
(Hence a branch line runs in 4 m. 
to Susa, described in the next Rte. , 
while for the Col des Fenetres over to 
Fenestrelles see § 5. Rte. B. ) The 
station of Condove, 9 m. (for the 
passes hence and from Alpignano and 
Avigliana over to the Viii valley see 
§13. Rte. C), is N. of the celebrated 
castle-like Benedictine monastery of 
St. Michel de la Cluse (the mother 
house of the ' cell ' of Chamonix), j 



founded in 999, and crowning a re- 
markable rock (948 m., 3,110 ft.) 
rising nearly 2,000 ft. above the 
valley ; it is most conveniently 
visited from the next station (2 m.), 
San? Ambrogio. Between is the 
famous narrow gorge of the Pas de 
Suse, or the Cluse, 2 m. further is 
Avigliana, opposite Drubiaglio, 
identified by many good authorities 
with the ancient Ocelum (for the 
passes hence past Giaveno to the 
Chisone valley see § 5. Rte. B). 
6 m. on is Alpignano, where the 
mountain ranges on either side sink 
into the plain, and in 9 m. more, passing 
within sight of Rivoli, the traveller 
reaches Turin. 



Route B. 

MODANE TO TURIN BY THE MONT 
CENIS. 

M. 

Bramans ... 7 
Termignon . .11 
Lanslebourg . .16 
Hospice . . -24 
La Grande Croix . 25^ 
Susa .... 37" 
Turin (by rail) . . 69 

Diligence in 3 hrs. to Lanslebourg, 
and on in 2% hrs. to the Mont Cenis 
Hospice. Also in 2^ hrs. from the 
Hospice to Susa. Private carriages 
are hard to procure save at Modane. 

Though the Mont Cenis Pass was 
for centuries frequented by travellers 
of all nationalities, and hence ex- 
tremely well known, yet it is pretty 
certain that it was not till the eighth 
century that it was first crossed by 
foreigners. It is first mentioned in 
731, but Pippin's passage in 755, and 
that of Charles the Great in 773, seem 
to be the first recorded. Later it 
came into fashion, and no fewer than 
13 passages by the mediaeval Em- 
perors on their way to or from Rome 
are recorded. But for long it was 



ROUTE B. MODANE TO TURIN BY THE MONT CEN1S 95 



only traversed by a mule path, at 
least between Lanslebourg and Nova- 
lesa. The present carriage road was 
constructed between 1803 and 1 8 10, 
by the order of Napoleon, and on the 
Italian side descends above the right 
bank of the Cenise, opposite the old 
mule path. The name of the pass is 
believed to be derived from the Cenise 
stream, but as late as the sixteenth 
century we hear of a statue of St. 
Denis preserved at Lanslebourg, 
whence the pass was also called Mont 
Denis : probably we have here a 
compliment to the Frankish kings 
and their successors, suggested by the 
name of the Cenise. The Hospice 
on the summit was founded in the 
early part of the ninth century, 
but refounded (after the expulsion of 
the Saracens of La Garde Freinet) in 
the eleventh century by Adelaide of 
Susa and Humbert II. of Savoy, and 
enlarged by Napoleon. 

[From 1868 to 187 1 the pass was 
traversed from St. Michel to Susa by 
the very remarkable line of railway 
known from the name of its inventor 
as the Fell Railway. As stipulated, it 
was destroyed after the Tunnel was 
completed, but traces of it can still be 
seen in places. The engine-drivers 
wereEnglish. To the astonishment of 
those used to the ordinary conditions 
of railway travelling, the locomotive, 
with a train of carriages, was seen to 
toil up and hurry down slopes on the 
outer edge of the carriage road, and 
to turn corners within little more space 
than was required by the diligences. 
The system adopted seemed perfectly 
safe, but it may be doubted whether 
the economic results were satisfactory. 
The power available was much less 
than in the case of ordinary railways, 
as only about forty-eight travellers 
could be conveyed in each train. But 
it was a noteworthy anticipation of 
the mountain railways now so common 
in Switzerland. 3 

The high road from the railway 
station at Modane passes through the 
village of that name, and then cross- 
ing the railway mounts high above 



the left bank of the Arc. Opposite 
is seen the fine waterfall of St. Benoft, 
and to the right the picturesque 
fortress of Esseillon. This is built on 
the rocky mountain-side, and appears 
to bar further progress, the chasm 
through which the Arc flows between 
the fort and the high road serving as 
a fosse to the seemingly impregnable 
works, which command this entrance 
into Italy. The pretty gorge of Ste. 
Anne is next traversed, a drawbridge 
being crossed at the entrance of the 
glen of that name (for the Col de 
Pelouse through it to Bardonneche see 
next Rte. ) The road then gradually 
descends into a fertile basin, in which 
the Le Verney hamlet of Bramans is 
passed. (For the passes thence to 
Bardonneche, Exilles, and Susa see 
Rtes. D and E, below.) The road 
now crosses to the right bank of the 
Arc, and winds along it till it tra- 
verses the Leisse stream, just before 
entering the considerable village of 
Termignon (1,280 m., 4,200 ft.) 
(For the passes hence to Pralognan, 
Tignes, Val dTsere, Bessans, 01 
Bonneval see § 12. Rtes. I and X.) 
The little church which stands on a 
I projecting rock above the village has 
a belfry of rather curious architecture, 
w T hile the remains of an ancient 
chapel, dedicated to St. Coiumban, 
will also interest the antiquary. 

On leaving Termignon the road 
makes a rather steep ascent by two 
great zigzags (which the pedestrian 
may easily cut off) to the upper level 
of the Arc valley, and follows the 
right bank of the river to the large 
village of Lanslebourg (1,398 m., 
4,587 ft.), once a busy place with a 
constant stream of traffic, now a silent 
Alpine village, with many large 
empty houses formerly used for the 
horses and carriages by means of 
which the pass was crossed. (For the 
ascents to be made from Lanslebourg, 
and the road up the Arc valley to 
Bonneval, at its head, see § 12. Rte. 
B.) 

At the upper end of the village the 
road crosses the Arc by a stone 



96 COTTIAN ALPS. I. § 7. AMBIN DISTRICT 



bridge, and then the ascent to the 
Pass immediately commences. The 
slope of the mountain-side is so uni- 
form that on this side it presents no 
engineering difficulties, and when the 
existing road was constructed it was 
merely necessary to decide what in- 
clination should be given to it. The 
gradient adopted was about 1 ft. in 15, 
and this is preserved with tolerable 
uniformity throughout the ascent. 
This is effected by six long zigzags, 
each bend of which is about f m. in 
length. (The Fell railway kept close 
to the road, and in fact occupied part 
of the roadway, except at the sharp 
turns where a slightly wider sweep 
was made. Pedestrians may reach 
the Pass near the 18th Refuge in 
i§ hr. by following the path past the 
telegraph posts, while there is a short 
cut from Lans le Villard to the first 
zigzag. ) There are twenty-three * Re- 
fuges 3 between Lanslebourg and Susa, 
almost all on the Italian slope. 

The crest of the pass is marked by 
a boundary stone (2,101 in., 6,893 
ft.), and commands a fine view on the 
Savoyard side. The road then 
descends towards the great undulating 
plateau of the Mont Cenis, passes the 
junction of the char road from the 
Petit Mont Cenis (Rte. E, below), 
and passes the Hotel de l'Ancienne 
Poste at Les Tawrnettes, before gain- 
ing the Hospice (1,924m., 6,313 ft.), 
at the E. end of the considerable Lac 
du Mont- Cenis. Poor travellers are 
here received gratuitously, but there 
are rooms for guests of a higher class, 
though often occupied during the 
summer by Italian officers, as the 
plateau is surrounded on all sides by 
recently constructed fortifications. A 
naturalist will be tempted to spend 
some days at the Hotel or at the 
Hospice, as this district is unusually 
interesting to a botanist, while very 
easily accessible in a day from Cham- 
bery, Milan, or Genoa. The pastures 
surrounding the lake, when seen 
before the cattle are driven up there, 
which usually happens early in July, 
may vie with our finest gardens for 



the beauty and variety of their flowers, 
and the surrounding heights produce 
most of the rarest species of the 
Western Alps. To name but a few 
of the more interesting species, we 
find here Ranunculus pyre?ioeus, 
Draba fiyrenaica, Arabis cenisia, 
Saponaria lutea, Ononis ce?iisia, 
Phaca australis, Oxyt?'opis fxtida, 
and O. Gaudini, Astragalus de- 
pressus, Saxifraga diapensioides, 
Hieracui??i valdepilosum, Campanula 
cenisia and C. Allionii, Swertta 
perennis, Veronica Allionii, Pedicu* 
laris comosa and P. gyroflexa, Cor- 
tusa Matthioli, Paradisia Liliastrum, 
Car ex microglochin, and Alopecurus 
Gerardi. On the slope towards 
Lanslebourg Pi?ttis uncmata, Poa 
distichophylla, and Festuca Jlavescens 
may also be found, while the list 
might be considerably extended if we 
were to include places within easy 
reach, such as the Petit Mont Cenis 
and the Col de Clapier. An account 
of the geology of the Mont Cenis 
plateau is given by Signor Piolti in an 
article in the ' Bollettino ' of the 
Italian Alpine Club for 1888. (For 
the ascents of the Rochemelon, the 
Pointe de Ronce, and the Roche 
Michel, see § 13. Rte. A, and for 
those from the Savine chalets, Rte. E. 
below. ) 

ijm. beyond the Hospice is a group 
of houses with extensive stabling (for 
the diligences in former days) called 
the Grande Croix (1,876 m., 6,155 
ft.), immediately beyond which the 
plateau comes to an end, and the 
descent begins. (The old mule track 
descends from the plain of St. 
Nicholas through the hamlet of 
Fen-era to that of Novalesa — with its 
famous ancient monastery, suppressed 
in 1855, after an existence of 800 
years — and then becoming a char 
road descends the Cenise valley past 
Venaus to Susa. It affords a short 
cut for pedestrians. ) 

A better view and cooler air are 
gained by following the high road in 
preference to the route by Novalesa. 
It is carried down by great zigzags to 



ROUTE C. MODANE TO BARDONNECHE 



97 



the little plain of St. Nicholas, and 
then high above the W. bank of the 
Cenise — which ma.kes a fine cascade, 
seen on looking back — opposite 
Novalesa, which is well seen from 
the hamlet of Molaretto. The Roche - 
melon, hitherto concealed by nearer 
peaks, now stands out and remains 
the most conspicuous object through- 
out the descent to Susa. Half-way 
(3 m. ) between that hamlet and Susa 
is the village of Jaillon (Giaglione) ; 
the zigzags above and below can 
easily be cut off by the pedestrian. 
The views gained in the course of the 
descent are very fine, and the com- 
bination of Alpine scenery with 
southern vegetation should have con- 
ferred on this entrance into Italy a 
higher reputation than it has yet 
obtained. Some detached bosses of 
rock intervening between the Cenise 
and the Dora conceal the city from 
view till the traveller is close to 

Susa (501 m. , 1,644 ft.) This is 
a small city, occupying the site of a 
Roman station, founded or extended 
in the time of Augustus. The Cathe- 
dral dates back to the eleventh 
century, and has a curious belfry in 
the Romanesque style, while some of 
the carving and sculpture is interest- 
ing. In the church is preserved the 
bronze triptych recording the famous 
ascent of the Rochemelon in 1358 
(see § 13. Rte. A). A lane opening 
on the piazza of the Cathedral leads 
in a few minutes to the celebrated 
Arc of Triumph, erected about 8 B.C. 
m honour of Augustus. The columns 
are of the Corinthian order, but its 
importance is mainly due to the 
inscription on it, recording how King 
Cottius submitted to the Roman 
yoke, and accepted the dignity of a 
Roman prefect, and enumerating the 
names of the fourteen mountain 
clans under his jurisdiction. These 
names really form the starting point of 
the history of this region of the Alps. 

Immediately N. of Susa, between 
the city and the Dora Riparia, are 
the ruins of the fortress of Brunetta, 
once considered the key to the valley 
I. 



on the Piedmontese side, but 
destroyed in 1796 by order of 
Napoleon. The adjoining rocks, 
and those above the neighbouring 
village of Mompantero, on the N.E., 
are exposed to the full force of the 
sun, and therefore support many 
southern plants which are rarely seen 
so far from the shores of the Medi- 
terranean : among them is the rare 
Telephin?n Imperati. The station at 
Susa, once such a busy place, now 
serves merely for the local traffic of 
that small city. The great railway 
line passes at a considerable height 
on the opposite side of the valley, 
and Susa is connected with it at the 
station of Bussoleno by a short branch 
line of 4 m. The route from Busso- 
leno to Turin (28 m. ) has been 
described in the preceding Rte. 



Route C. 

I MODANE TO BARDONNECHE. 
I ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE DE 
I SCOLETTE. 

No fewer than four Alpine glens 
1 meet at Bardonneche, so that through 
each of them a pass leads thither 
from Modane ; while through that to 
the S.W. the Col des Echelles gives 
access to Briancon (§ 6. Rte. E), and 
through that to the N.E. passes lead 
over from Bramans, and are described 
in Rte. D, below. None of the four 
passes to be here noticed offer any 
difficulties, the two first-named, and in 
I part the third, being traversed by 
mule paths. From each pass the 
chief neighbouring summit is easily 
ascended. 

1. By the Col de la Vallee Etroite 
(7-J hrs. ) — The main route (a char 
road for some way) mounts from the 
village of Modane itself past a series 
of small chapels, but a traveller start- 
ing from the railway station c: 
Modane can mount direct by a steep 
zigzag path on the right bank of 

H 



98 COTTIAN ALPS. I. 

the Grande Montague torrent, re- 
joining the chief road a little before 
it crosses a torrent far below in a 
deep ravine in order to attain the 
Sanctuary of Notre- Dame du Char- 
maix, 1,508 m., 4,948 ft. (a long 
hour from the station). This is a 
celebrated place of pilgrimage in the 
Maurienne, especially on September 8. 
The statue of the Madonna is rudely 
carved in white marble, now dingy 
with the lapse of years, for the first 
chapel was built here as far back as 
1404. It was later enlarged and 
rebuilt, part of the wooden building 
now forming an archway under which 
the path is carried, the chapel itself 
being on the left, and protected by a 
strong wooden grating. The position 
in the midst of pine forests is ex- 
tremely picturesque, and any traveller 
making an enforced stay at Modane 
should not neglect to make this short 
and pleasant excursion. 10 min. up 
the glen at the Charmaix chalets the 
mule track to the Col de Frejus (3. 
below) blanches off to the S.E., but 
the main road mounts the right side 
of the glen of the Grande Montagne, 
till in 40 min. , at the Pra di Riou 
chalets, leaving on the left the char 
road towards the Col de la Roue 
(2. below), our mule track soon 
crosses the Roue torrent, mounts 
a grassy slope by zigzags, and then 
through a wild gorge on the S.W. to 
the Losa huts in a fine pasture basin. 
The way hence mounts slightly S.W. , 
and at the end rather steeply to the 
Col (2,445 m -? 8,022 ft. ), reached in 
4 hrs. from Modane. It is some- 
times called Col de la Saume, though 
that name properly belongs to an un- 
frequented pass on the N.W. (For 
the Mont Thabor see § 6. Rte. E. ) 
The path on the Italian side descends 
nearly due S., keeping on the W. 
side of a ravine which becomes deeper 
and deeper. A rapid slope leads 
down to the bri Ige at the junction of 
the two arms f the Vallee Etroite. 
The right ban is hence followed by 
means of a chai road to the highest 
huts [\\ hr.), w lere the night is often 



§ 7. AMBIN DISTRICT 

spent before the ascent of the Mont 
Thabor, and then mainly the left 
bank. 

[For the passes from these chalets 
to Briancon by the Nevache valley 
see § 6. Rte. D. From the chalets 
the Rocca Bernaude (3,229 m. , 
10,594 ft.), the highest summit in 
the range between the Vallee Etroite 
and the Roue glen, may be climbed 
in 4J hrs. by its S. ridge, while the 
Punta Baldassare (3,162 m., 
10,375 ft.), more to the S. on the 
same ridge, is accessible in 4 hrs. by 
its N.W. slope. 3 

The glen is very pretty and wooded, 
and the peaks around rise in strange 
forms. Some distance below the path 
from the Col des Echelles falls in at 
the chalets of Plan du Col, and thence 
the left bank of the torrent is followed 
past the hamlet of Melezet to Bar- 
donneche, which is about 3 J hrs. 
from the pass. 

2. By the Col de la Roue (5 J hrs. ) 
— This is the shortest and most direct 
way from Modane to Bardonneche, 
and is mentioned in the Middle Ages 
under the name of the 4 collis rotse.,' 
though it is not proved that a Roman 
track crossed it, and still less that it was 
Hannibal's pass. The way continues 
up the main valley after that to the 
Col de la Vallee Etroite branches off 
to the S.W. , about ij- hr. from 
Modane. The char road in \ hr. , 
at the ruined mining buildings of 
Lavoir, becomes a mule track, 
and mounts nearly due S., rather 
steeply, up a side glen, at the 
entrance to which there are some 
stunted pine trees. Higher up there 
are open pastures, over which the 
path, marked by poles, ascends 
gently in a S.E. direction to the pass, 
2,566 m. , 8,419 ft. (if hr. from the 
bifurcation, or 3 J hrs. from Modane), 
which is marked by two crosses. It is 
one of the easiest passes in the Alps. 

[Hence the Punta Nera (3,040 m. , 
9,974 ft.), on the E. , can be reached 
in i\ hr. , while the Gran Somma 
(c. 3, loom., 10,171 ft.), on the S.W. , 
is best climbed from the Custom- 



ROUTE C. MODANE TO BARDONNECHE 



99 



house officers' hut in 2§ hrs. by its 
S. ridge. J 

The descent lies down over the 
Piano dei Morti, passes the Custom- 
house officers' cabin, and traverses 
the left-hand slopes of a treeless and 
dreary glen. Bardonneche is seen 
below on rounding a corner (J hr. ), 
and J hr. further is the chapel of 
N.-D. de Montserrat. A little be- 
yond the Roue (or Rho) chalets are 
passed, and a good \ hr. more brings 
the traveller to Bardonneche (if hr. 
from the pass). 

3. By the Col de Prejus (5J-6 hrs. ) 
— This is in some respects the most 
interesting route from Modane to 
Bardonneche, as it passes almost im- 
mediately beneath the great Tunnel. 
The mule track leaves the Col de la 
Vallee Etroite road (1. above) at 
the chalets of Charmaix, and mounts 
rather steeply through the forest to 
the picturesque and wide-spreading 
pastures of Arrotidaz, the upper huts 
on which are reached in 1J-2 hrs. 
from Charmaix. A low depression — 
the Col cPArrondaz (2,521 m. , 8,371 
ft.) — in the ridge to the S. gives ac- 
cess in \ hr. to a rather more stony 
hollow, whence a last steep ascent by 
a well-marked path leads to the pass, 
2,528 m., 8,294 ft. (i|hr., or 3 J- 4 
hrs. from Modane). 

[An easy rocky ridge allows the 
traveller to make in a good half- 
hour the ascent of the Pointe de 
Frejus (2,944 m., 9,659 ft.), on the 
N. It commands a very extensive 
view of the Dauphine and Tarentaise 
peaks, including even the Viso and 
the Chambeyron summits, far away, 
as well as Bardonneche, quite close 
by. But a few steps distant is 
a ruined hut, which is just over 
the Tunnel, and was used as an 
Observatory at the time it was being 
pierced. It is easy to follow the 
frontier ridge for f hr. more to the 
Cime du Grand Vallon (3,128 m. , 
10,263 ft.), not to be confused with 
a summit of the same name a little 
further E. (see under 4. )J 

The descent from the Col lies for a 



considerable distance in a S.E. direc- 
tion over rocks, and stones, by a 
zigzag path. Lower down are pas- 
tures, the Merdovine chalets being 
gained in about 1 hr. from the pass, 
and Bardonneche by the right bank 
of the torrent in rather less time (ij- 
2 hrs. from the Col). 

4. By the Col de Pelouse (7J-8J 
hrs.) — The three passes just described 
all lead from the same glen on the 
French side, that of the Grande 
Montague. That now to be noticed 
traverses entirely different glens on 
either side. But it is the route re- 
commended to the mountaineer, since 
on the way over the Col the ascent 
may be made of the beautiful Aiguille 
de Scoletie. 

About midway between Modane 
and Bramans the pretty wooded 
gorge of Ste. Anne descends from the 
S. to the Arc valley, just opposite the 
fortress of Esseillon (see Rte B. 
above). This glen gives access to 
the Col de Pelouse. The mule path 
mounts steeply from the bridge at its 
entrance (4 m. from Modane) up the 
left bank of the torrent, crosses in 
\ hr. by the Pont Sever to the right 
bank, and then ascends by five great 
zigzags to the upper basin of the 
valley in which are the chalets of 
Hortiere (c. 1,800 m., 5,906 ft.), at 
the junction of the two arms of the 
valley (I hr., or 2 \ hrs. from Mo- 
dane). 

[Pedestrians may take a better 
j way, leaving the Mont Cenis high road 
j a little beyond Villarodin (i|- hr. 
I from Modane), and mounting through 
the forest round a corner into the Ste. 
Anne valley, the chapel of that name 
being reached in a good hour from 
Villarodin, while 10 min. below the 
Pont de Ste. Anne leads over to the 
right bank of the torrent, which is 
followed to Hortiere (~ hr. from the 
bridge, or 3 hrs. from Modane). On 
looking back from near the chapel a 
beautiful glimpse of the Dent Parra- 
chee is obtained. J 

The way to the Col lies up the 
I right bank of the stream in the S.W. 

H 2 



ioo C0TTIAX ALPS. I. § 7. AM BIX DISTRICT 



or principal branch of the valley, at 
first through forests, later up a sort of 
corridor of nearly level pastures to the 
highest chalets in the valley, those of 
Vallon or Avalaiiche, 2,130 m., 
6,989 ft. (1 hr. ) Opposite on the E. 
rises the snow-seamed W. face of the 
Aiguille de Scolette. The ascent to 
the Col continues in a S.E. direction 
up pastures, and shifting debris, a 
lake being passed on the W. before 
the ridge of the pass (2,796 m., 9,174 
ft.) is attained (i-ij hr. from the 
highest chalets, or 4J-5 hrs. from 
Modane). 

[YV. of the pass is the Chne du 
Grand Vallon, 3,191 m., 10,470 ft. 
(Italian map), or 3.158 m. , 10,361 
ft. (French map), which is properly 
called Pointe de Panmont, and is 
only c. 3,080 m., 10,105 ft., high.] 

The descent to the valley of Roche- 
molles is comparatively short, but ex- 
tremely steep, though magnificent 
views of Scolette are gained on the 
way. The path after making many 
zigzags turns S. and passes several 
groups of chalets before attaining the 
level of the Rochemolles valley ( 1 hr. ) 
The ancient and quaint hamlet of 
Rochemolles ( 1,597 m. , 5,240 ft.) is 
about \ hr. further (1 hr. from the 
Plan chalets, higher up the valley, 
whither a direct path descends from 
the pass), and thence 1^ hr. more by 
a char road mainly along the right 
bank of the torrent leads to Bardon- 
neche (2^-3^ hrs. from the Col). 

Ascent of the Aiguille de Scolette. 
— It has been often remarked that some 
peaks escape notice for many years, 
though not far from a frequented 
route. One of these is the Aiguille 
de Scolette, 3.505 m., 11,500 ft. 
(called Pierre Menue on the Italian 
map), which rises half-way between 
the Tunnel and the Mont Cenis. 
Although, as already pointed out, 
it is the loftiest summit in the 
Cottians (save the Viso, and its 
satellite, the Viso di Vallante), it 
is indicated on the Sardinian map 
without any height, and unmen- 
tioned either in the older editions of 



Joanne or of the present work. It 
did not become known to moun- 
taineers till 1S75, when, after several 
attempts, Signor Martino Baretti suc- 
ceeded in making the first ascent by 
way of the N.W. ridge, the best and 
most convenient route. On occasion 
of the second ascent (1881) Signori L. 
Barale, H. Briner, and E. Fierz 
scaled the precipitous W. rock face, 
the climb up it being difficult and 
taking 3 hrs. , so that this route has 
been but seldom taken since. Mr. 
Coolidge, making in 1882 the third 
ascent (the first altogether from the 
French side), and a few other parties, 
adopted the N.W. ridge route, and it 
was not till 1890 that Signori C. and 
A. Fiorio, E. Canzio, and N. Vigna 
struck out a new way by the E. arete, 
which has since become a favourite 
climb with Italian climbers. 

There is a great cairn on the 
N.W. ridge, which marks the point 
at which that arete is reached by 
travellers coming from one or other 
side. Mr. Coolidge, having slept 
at the Fond chalets, in the S.E. 
arm of the Ste. Anne valley, and a 
short hour higher than those of 
Hortiere (see above), climbed direct 
up the steep debris and rocky slopes on 
the S.W. to the N.W. ridge, attained 
in I \ hr. from the huts at a point a 
good bit farther S. than that marked 
2.909 m. on the French map, and by 
the broad and easy ridge reached the 
aforesaid great cairn on that ridge 
in 35 min. more. (This cairn can 
also be attained by a direct ascent 
from the Vallon chalets, on the W. 
(2tt hrs.), or by a traverse from the 
Col de Pelouse along the W. base 
(take care not to keep too high up) of 
the peak, 2J hrs. sufficing to go from 
the Col to the highest summit. ) 1 5 
min. beyond the cairn the base of 
the first of the three rocky teeth which 
make up the mountain is reached. It 
can be turned with ease by either 

! flank, and the next tooth should be 
crossed, the crest of the ridge itself 
then leading to the summit of the 

. third and highest pinnacle, J hr. from 



ROUTE D. BRAMANS TO BARDONNECHE 



IOI 



the first, or f hr. from the great cairn. ! 
These times are rather fast, as the 
weather was threatening all day. The 
view is, of course, very extensive, in- 
cluding Mont Blanc, and the lake on 
the Mont Cenis, as well as the 
villages of Aussois and Avrieux, due 
NT, and the Rochemolles valley till 
near Bardonneche. 

The best starting point for the E. 
ridge is the chalets of Plan, high up 
the Rochemolles glen (2 J hrs. from j 
Bardonneche). 2 hrs. suffice to gain ; 
the foot of the S.E. face, up which a j 
snow gully straight in front (better j 
than a tempting one more to the I 
right) leads to the E. ridge (J-i hr. ) I 
2 hrs. or less are required to climb 
along this interesting, though not | 
difficult, arete, it being best to keep ! 
more often on the Italian than on the j 
French slope. It is also possible to ' 
gain the E, ridge from the Italian 
Etache huts (see next Rte. ), on the : 
S.E. , in 2f hrs. 



Route D. 

BRAMANS TO BARDONNECHE, EX- 
ILLES, OR SUSA BY THE AM BIN 
GROUP. 

Near the village of Bramans, 7 m. 
from Modane on the road towards 
the Mont Cenis (Rte. B. above), a 
considerable mountain stream flows 
from the E. into the Arc. This is j 
the St. Pierre torrent, which de- 
scends through the Ambin valley \ 
from the watershed of the Alps, re- 
ceiving on its way two smaller I 
affluents from the Savine glen, on the 
E. , and the Etache glen, on the S. W. , 
so that the Ambin valley is formed 
by the union of three glens. The 
three glens and streams unite at or a 
little above the hamlet of Pes Planais, j 
whence branches off the path to the 
Petit Mont Cenis. The peaks rising 
on the ridge at the head of these 



three glens are known as the Ambin 
Group (the culminating point of 
which is the highest of the Trots 
Dents <F Ambin, 3,382 m., 1 1,096 ft. ), 
together with the fine summit of 
Rognosa d Etache, which, as indi- 
cated above, is here included with 
this group for the sake of practical 
convenience, though it properly rises 
between the Ambin Group and the 
Scolette Group. On the other hand, 
as the Savine glen is practically part 
of the route over the Petit Mont 
Cenis, it is best described in connec- 
tion with that pass in the next Rte. 

From the Ambin valley passes lead 
over to no fewer than three distinct 
glens on the Italian slope, so that 
they are naturally noticed in the same 
Rte., though it must be borne in 
mind that the fourth of the passes 
noticed below leads into the same 
glen on the Italian side as the Col 
de Clapier from the Savine glen. The 
Ambin Group has very rarely been 
visited by foreign travellers, but has 
been pretty thoroughly explored by 
Italian climbers, as is fully set forth in 
Mr. Coolidge's monograph in the 
third volume of the ' Revue Alpine ' 
of Lyons. 

A char road is carried from 
Bramans high above the left bank of 
the torrent through the narrow glen. 
It passes the chapel of N.-D. de la 
Delivrance, and higher up near the 
ancient but ruined church of St. 
Pierre d Extravache. The rocks 
which enclose the valley are easily 
disintegrated, and they have been 
extensively cut through or undermined 
by the stream. This is particularly 
well seen about \\ hr. above 
Bramans, where the road passes near 
the ruined church over a ridge which 
commands a view of the peaks on 
the N. of the Arc valley, with a great 
stretch of that valley itself. This 
ridge formerly barred the valley, and 
thus formed a considerable lake ; but 
it has been sawn through by the 
torrent to the depth of 260 ft. belovv 
the former level of the lake. On the 
opposite side of the valley is a great 



102 COTTIAN ALPS. I. § 7. AM BIN DISTRICT 



wall of white rock, which has been 
identified by some writers with the 
' white rock ' encountered by Hanni- 
bal when crossing the Alps. In 
1J-2 hrs. the char road, having 
crossed the Etache torrent, comes to 
an end at the hamlet of Les Pianais 
(1,649 m., 5,410 ft.), and here the 
track up the Etache glen branches off 
from those up the Ambin glen, and 
to the Petit Mont Cenis. Hence it 
is most convenient to describe the 
passes through the two former under 
separate headings. 

1. By the Col d'Etaclie (8J hrs. 
from Biamans to Bardonneche). — It 
is not necessary to cross the bridge 
over the Etache stream to Les 
Pianais, for the mule path mounts at 
first along the left bank of that 
torrent, and then in 20 min. crosses 
to the right bank. In about 1^ hr. 
the Etache chalets (French slope) are 
attained, and a glimpse gained of the 
Grande Casse. (Hence a paved 
track runs up the main glen towards 
the lake and glacier of Etache, at 
the head of which is the rock wall of 
the Col della Rognosa : see below.) 
The way to the Col d ; Etache (pass- 
able for mules) now quits the main 
valley, and continues by the left 
bank of a side stream up a steep 
slope, and then by a ledge over- 
hanging a small waterfall, the upper 
basin being thus gained. Bearing 
well to the left across bare slopes the 
summit of the pass (2,787 m., 
9,144 ft.) is attained in 3 hrs. or less 
from Les Pianais. It commands a 
very extensive view, including the 
Meije, Ecrins, Grande Casse, Grande 
Motte, and Grivola. The pass is 
much used by smugglers. 

An easy descent of -§ hr. leads to 
the Etache chalets (Italian slope), 
2,442 m. , 8,012 ft. 

[These huts may be used as a 
staiting point for the ascent of 
Scohtte on the N.W. by its E. ridge 
(see last Rte.), but are even better 
situated for the splendid rock peak 
of the Rognosa d'Etache (3,385 m., 
11,106 ft.) on the E. A goat track 



leads round the S.W. foot of the 
Rochers Cormis (2,909 m., 9,544 ft.) 
to a very stony hollow up which and 
snow patches the way lies N.E. to 
the wide opening of the Col della 
Rognosa (3,100 m., 10,171 ft.), 2 hrs. 
from the huts. Hence the highest 01 
S.W. summit of the Rognosa may be 
climbed in i\ hr. by easy rocks, it 
being best to keep on the proper right 
bank of the great ice couloir S.W. of 
the peak. The N.E. summit (c. 
3,360 m., 11,024 ft.) can be reached 
from the depression at the head of 
the couloir to its S.W. in about the 
same time from the Col della Rognosa. 
Either summit can be scaled by way 
of that depression from the Col 
Sommeiller, on the S.E., the lower 
taking I ^ hr. thence, but the higher 
a longer time, as the rocks are diffi- 
cult. The first ascent of the loftiest 
summit of the Rognosa was made in 
1875 by Signor F. Montaldo. It is 
possible to descend the smooth steep 
rock wall on the French side of the 
Col della Rognosa mainly by way of 
a black couloir far to the right of a 
conspicuous mass of red rocks ; 
1 hr. is required to reach the small 
Etache glacier, and the French 
Etache chalets are gained in \\ hr. 
more. J 

A zigzag path down steep grass 
slopes leads from the Italian Etache 
huts in under \ hr. to near the Fond 
chalets, at the head of the Rochemol/es 
valley, and that valley is then 
followed past the Plait huts (where 
the way from the Col de Pelouse, 
last Rte., 4. falls in) to Bardonneche, 
which may be gained in 2§ hrs. from 
the Fond chalets, or under 3! hrs. 
from the pass. 

2. By the Col Sommeiller (iojhrs. 
from Bramans to Bardonneche). — 
The way to this pass continues from 
Les Pianais up the main Ambin 
valley, which bends gradually to the 
S., and then to the S.E. The track 
is rough, and the valley very wild and 
stony, and shut in between lofty 
ridges. Soon after passing the 
waterfall formed by the Savine torrent 



ROUTE D. B RAMANS TO EXILLES OR SUSA 



the path crosses to the right bank of 
the stream, which is followed to the 
rude Baraque cTA??ibin (2 hrs. or 
less from Les Planais), amidst most 
savage surroundings. Soon after, the 
torrent is recrossed, and once 
round a corner in the valley (20 min. 
from the Baraque) it is necessary to 
climb the steep grass slopes on the 
W. by means of a faint track. This 
makes two huge zigzags before gain- 
ing the Ni end of the glacier giving 
access to the pass, and continues 
along its left bank (the glacier itself 
is quite easy) to the foot of the final 
snowy ascent to the pass (2,962 m., 
9,718 ft.), which is attained in 2.\ hrs. 
from the Baraque, or \\ hrs. 
from Les Planais. The pass is well 
known to the shepherds, who occa- 
sionally lead their flocks over it, and 
is mentioned several times by the 
French military topographers of the 
eighteenth century, but its name was 
only bestowed on it in 187 1 by Signor 
Baretti, in honour of the famous 
engineer who had so much to do 
with the piercing of the great 
Tunnel. 

[For the ascent hence of the two 
peaks of the Rognosa d'Etache on 
the N.W., see 1. above. The 
Punt a Sommeiller (3,321 m., 
10,896 ft. ), on the S.E., may be scaled 
direct from the Col by the steep 
rocks of its N. face, but it is easier 
to work round its tf.W. foot to the 
Col de Galambra — between the 
Rochemolles and Galambra glens — 
whence it is accessible in 1 hr.jj 

The descent from the Col lies over 
an easy glacier to a rocky hollow, 
and then down the rock wall which 
closes the head of the Rochemolles 
valley, and is seamed by a fine 
waterfall. i| hr. suffices to gain the 
Fond chalets, whence Bardonneche 
is attained in 2\ hrs. more by the 
way described above from the Col 
d'Etache. 

It may here be stated once for all 
that while the maps give the name 
Col d'Ambin to several passes (all of 
which might fitly bear it) that name 



is now limited to the pass next to be 
noticed. 

3. By the Col d'Ambin (8| hrs. 
from Bramans to Exilles). — Thfs pass 
(2,854 m., 9,364ft.) lies at the ex- 

! treme S. end of the Ambin valley, 

i and may be reached in 2 hrs. or so 
from the Baraque d'Ambin by keep- 
ing along the right bank of the 
torrent by a path, and then mounting 
by easy rocks and some snow. Like 
the Col Sommeiller, this Col is also 
spoken of by the old French military 
topographers. 

[In about I hr. it is easy to climb 
the Punta Ferrant (3,364 m., 
11,037 ft.), on the E., by the S.W. 
ridge and the snow at its N. base. It is 
admirably placed as a view point, for 
it commands the whole valley be- 
tween Susa and Oulx, Susa itself, the 
fortress of Exilles, and the Superga, 
near Turin, while the Viso, the great 

! Dauphine peaks, Mont Blanc, the 

I Grand Combin, the Matterhorn, and 
many other summits are visible. On 

I the Italian side the easiest rou'e is 
by the S. ridge. J 

There is not the slightest difficulty 
in the descent from the Col on the 

; Italian side, there being very little 

snow. Exilles (see Rte. A it is 

about half-way between the railway 
stations at Salbertrand and Chio- 
monte, either of which is attained by 
the great carriage road leading towards 

! the Mont Genevre) can be reached in 
2J hrs. through the easy Gala?nbra 
glen and a path on the left bank of 
its torrent. Another way is to cross 
the Pas so Clopaca, S. of the Punta 
Ferrant, and so either descend by 
the curious subterranean aqueduct of 
Touilles (500 m., 1,640 ft., in length, 
and excavated by a solitary man, 
Colombano Romean, between the 
years 1526 and 1533) to Chiomonte, 
on the railway between Oulx and 
Turin (Rte. A. above), or by the 
Touilles glen to the Col de Ciapier 
track, and so to Susa. 

4. By the Col de l'Agnel. — This is 
! an easy glacier pass which crosses the 
i watershed N. of the Punta Ferrant 



104 COTTIAN ALPS. I. § 7- AMBIN DISTRICT 



It is reached from the head of the 
Ambin valley by bearing S.E. from 
the line of ascent to the Col d' Ambin. 
Another glacier covers the Italian 
side of the pass, and it was in a 
crevasse here that Signor Tonini, one 
of the Piedmontese surveyors, pe- 
rished in i860, as he refused to be 
roped, as was suggested by his guide. 
Below, the track from the Col de 
Clapier (next Rte. ) is joined, and 
followed to Susa. This pass, or 
rather the route to it, is chiefly used 
by those who desire to make the 
ascent of the RccJie d? Ambin , 3,377 
in., 11,080 ft. (see next Rte.), start- 
ing from the Italian side ; this can be 
effected by the rocks of its E. face, 
2 hrs. being required from the Italian 
Agnel glacier, which is 6 hrs. from 
Chiomonte. 



Route E. 

B RAMANS OR THE MONT CENIS TO 
SUSA BY THE COL DE CLAPIER. 
ASCENTS OF THE ROCHE AND 
DENTS D'AMBIN. 

The Savine glen forms the E. arm 
of the Ambin valley, but is raised 
high above it by a wall, down which 
falls a fine cascade. This wall or 
ridge, in the opinion of some geo- 
logists, once extended continuously 
across the main Ambin valley, so as 
to form great lakes in its upper part 
as well as in the Savine glen. But 
this massive barrier has been gradually 
eaten away by the torrents till the 
lakes were drained (or nearly so), or 
filled up with debris. Hence the 
scenery of the Savine glen is singular. 
It forms a trough between the Dents 
d'Ambin and the ridge separating it 
on the E. from the Cenise valley. 
This trough is very uniform in shape, 
the bottom showing a wide expanse 
of green pastures, while the sides are 
a succession of stony slopes. But the 
dark crags of the Roche and Dents 



! d'Ambin, with their streaming gla- 
ciers, suffice to give sublimity to the 
scene. Not far from the edge of the 
above-mentioned wall descending to- 
wards the main Ambin valley are the 
chalets of Savine (2,221 m., 7,287 
ft.), amidst fine pastures. They are 
accessible in 1 hr. by a nearly level 
path from the Petit Mont Cenis, and 
are thus on the direct route from the 
Arc valley to Italy, while they are 
the best head-quarters on the French 
slope whence to explore the higher 
peaks of the Ambin Group. 

Before, however, describing those 
ascents it is convenient to give a 
brief notice of the Petit Mont Cenis 
(2,184 m., 7 ; 166 ft.), which has been 
considered by some writers to be the 
pass by which Hannibal crossed the 
Alps, while it was certainly traversed 
in August 1689 by the Waldensians 
under Henri Arnaud on occasion of 
their ' Glorieuse Rentree ' into their 
valleys. This pass, which is but little 
used, is a depression in the chain 
separating the nearly parallel valleys 
j of Ambin, and that through which 
| the Mont Cenis road is carried. But 
j this chain forms part of the main 
! watershed of the Alps, and so the 
j Petit Mont Cenis is one of the passes 
j over that range. Yet, owing to the 
I formation of the Savine trough, the 
Petit Mont Cenis leads, properly 
speaking, only from the Ambin valley 
to the plateau of the Mont Cenis, 
unless from the pass the route is con- 
tinued up that trough, and over the 
Col de Clapier, at its head. Its posi- 
tion is thus very singular, and prac- 
tically the track over it is only useful 
as enabling a traveller to gain the 
Savine chalets (for ascents or the Col 
de Clapier) either from Bramans, 
from Lanslebourg, or from the Mont 
Cenis plateau itself. The char road 
continues from Les Planais (if- 2 hrs. 
above Bramans : see last Rte. ) for a 
short distance as far as the Fesse 
chalets, whence as a mule track it 
mounts by a series of stony zigzags 
the great wall already mentioned, at 
the summit of which the mule track 



ROUTE E. B RAMANS OR THE MONT CENIS TO SUSA 105 



to the pass, leaving the path to the 
Savine chalets on the right, bends 
slightly N.W. to the Petit Mont Cenis 
(2 hrs. from Les Planais). The mule 
track soon becomes once more a char 
road which meanders nearly at a level 
over pastures in a N.E. direction till 
it joins the Mont Cenis road not far 
from the N.W. end of the Mont 
Cenis lake, ij hr. suffices to reach 
either the inn at Les Tavernettes, or 
the Mont Cenis Pass itself. As that 
pass may be gained by the short cut 
(Rte. B) in 1^ hr. from Lanslebourg, 
and the Petit Mont Cenis in if hr. 
more, the Savine chalets are thus 
about hrs. from Lanslebourg, 

while by way of Les Planais 3^-4 hrs. 
suffice to attain them from Bramans. 
They may also be reached from the 
Mont Cenis plateau by way of the 
Col Giaset (2,701 m., 8,862 ft.), 
reached by crossing a low ridge, and 
mounting through a wild glen past 
the Lago Nero and Lago Bianco. 
The Col leads to a high shelf above 
the Savine trough, which may be 
gained at the chalets, or better at the 
Savine lake after a long traverse. But 
this is a long and roundabout route. 

[From the chalets both the Roche 
d'Ambin (3,377 m., 11,080 ft.) and 
the Dents d'Ambi?i (3, 382 m. , 1 1 ,096 
ft. ) may most conveniently be as- 
cended, at any rate by a party start- 
ing from the French side, on which 
the way is far shorter than from the 
Italian slope. The former summit is 
crowned by a great cairn built in 1822 
by the Piedmontese and Austrian 
engineers occupied in measuring an 
arc of the mean parallel. It is easily 
reached from the chalets in 3.V-4hrs., 
the best route being to cross the great 
N. spur of the Dents d'Ambin, so as 
to traverse high above the right side 
of the Ambin valley, the ascent being 
completed by the W. ridge ; it is also 
easy to reach it from the Savine lake 
by crossing the frontier ridge some 
way W. of the Col de Clapier, and 
making a traverse so as to gain the 
N.E. ridge, which offers no diffi- 
culties. As pointed out in the last 



I Rte. a party coming from the Italian 
side should climb "up the rocks of the 
E. face of the peak. The panorama 
from the summit is very extensive, the 
principal feature being the Trois 
Dents d'Ambin, some way to the N. E. 
These three bold needles rise W. of the 
Col de Clapier, but are all wholly 
j in France, as a small snow saddle 
separates them from the frontier 
; ridge. Though mentioned by Saus- 
| sure in 1787, when describing the 
I prospect from the Roche Michel, 
\ above the Mont Cenis, and again in 
1822-3 by the engineers who then 
climbed the Roche d'Ambin, the 
Trois Dents, like Scolette, long 
escaped notice, the highest tooth be- 
ing vanquished for the first time by 
i Signor Martino Baretti in 1875, a 
week after his successful attack on 
Scolette. The W. tooth is about 
' 7 m. (23 ft.) higher than the E. one, 
the latter being about 31 m. (102 ft.) 
higher than the central point. From 
the Savine lake (1 hr. beyond the 
chalets) 2^ hrs. suffice to clamber up 
to the notch just S. of the W. tooth, 
which is gained in 10 min. more by 
steep but very good rocks of the S.E. 
ridge and E. face. If preferred, the 
same notch may be attained by cross- 
ing the ridge N. of the W. tooth, and 
then traversing the mountain slope in 
a S. direction before mounting again. 
It is quite possible to climb all three 
points in a day, for it is said that 
20 min. suffice for the ascent of the 
W. tooth itself, 18 min. for that of 
the Central tooth, and 15 more for 
the E. tooth ; active climbers may 
also include the Roche d'Ambin in 
the day's work, by going from the 
foot of the E. tooth to the N.E. arete, 
as suggested above.] 

From this lengthy digression about 
the Petit Mont Cenis and the two 
chief summits of the Ambin Group 
it is now necessary to return, in order 
to give some description of the Col de 
Clapier. 

From the chalets of Savine to the 
Col the way does not present the 
slightest difficulty. The ascent is 



io6 COTTIAN ALPS. I. §7. AMBIN DISTRICT 



very gentle until a somewhat more 
rapid rise leads to the highest plateau, 
occupied by the Lac de Savine, 
2,458 m., 8,065 ft- t 1 nr - from the 
chalets), whose dimensions vary 
according to the seasons. It is just 
at the E. foot of the Dents d'Ambin. 
t hr. farther (about 5 hrs. from 
Bramans, or 4 hrs. from the Mont 
Cenis) is the summit of the Col de 
Clapier (2,491 m., 8,173 ft-) 

[On the N.E. is the Mont Ciusalet 
(3,313 m. , 10,870 ft.), which may be 
climbed hence in 3 hrs. It is easy 
thence to reach the Mont Cenis road 
either by passing over the top of the 
Cima di Bard (3,150 m., 10,335 ft.) 
or by descending S.E. of the peak 
through the glen in which is the Lago 
della Vecchia.^ 

Like several other passes in this 
region the Col de Clapier is men- 
tioned by the French military topo- 
graphers of the eighteenth century, 
while Hannibal, according to a very 
improbable theory, and certainly the 
Waldensians in 1689, traversed it. The 
latter were compelled by the French 
troops to cross from Molaretto over the 
rough Col de Touilles to Exilles. 

The descent from the Col towards 
Susa lies down the uppermost narrow 
portion of the Cla?-ea valley, confined 
between the ridge running from the 
Mont Ciusalet, on the left, and the 
spurs descending from the Roche 
d'Ambin on the right. In J hr. 
the traveller reaches the little rocky 
basin known as the Plan du Clapier, 
and traversed by the Clarea. The 
view from this point is extremely 
interesting. From the verge of the 
precipitous rocks that fall away im- 
mediately below him the traveller 
sees the lower valley of the Clarea, or 
Clair -ee, 3,000 feet beneath him ; 
to the right is the rugged range of 
Touilles, with its curious aqueduct 
(see last Rte.), and beyond it the 
ranges that enclose the valley of the 
Dora Riparia on the S. ; while on 



the left, above some very steep rocks, 
are seen the remains of an ancient 
fort. The mule path winds, to the 
left of the waterfalls formed by the 
Clarea, down the Escalier du Clapier, 
a sort of chimney in the face of 
calcareous schist rocks, where the 
botanist will observe with interest 
Br as sic a Richeri, Sap07iaria lutea, 
and other rare species. On a little 
terrace midway is a quaintly perched 
hut. 

In 2 hrs. from the Col a group 
of huts named Molaretto (not to be 
confounded with the hamlet of the 
same name on the Mont Cenis 
road : see Rte. B) is gained. The 
valley, which here opens out for a 
while, soon narrows again. It is 
possible to keep through this glen 
by a track high above the left bank 
of the Clarea. But the direct way to 
Susa follows a very ancient water- 
course, designed to irrigate the slopes 
round Jaillon, which would other- 
wise be bare and barren. The path 
lies along the bank or sustaining wall 
of this watercourse, which in some 
places is carried along the face of 
seemingly vertical rocks. Even in 
places where the rock is partly 
j hollowed to form a channel for the 
I water there is no real difficulty in 
passing, but this way should not be 
i undertaken by persons with weak or 
uncertain heads. The passage of the 
watercourse lasts nearly 1 hr. , and 
beyond it fertile meadows lead to the 
high road of the Mont Cenis near 
Jaillon, or Giaglione (3 J- hrs. from 
the Col), which is 3 m. from 
Susa, 

' The way from Savine to Susa may be 
varied by climbing the slopes E. of the 
Lac de Savine to the crest of the ridge 
dividing the Clarea from the Cenise, 
and then descending along that ridge 

■ to the Mont Cenis road above Jaillon. 

I This route commands fine views of 
the Rochemelon and of the Susa 

I valley. 5 (W. M.) 



1 



c 




107 



CHAPTER III. . 
DAUPHINE ALPS. (COTTIAN ALPS. II.) 



Section 8. 
Aiguilles d'Arves District. 
Route. 

A. Grenoble to Brian 9011 by the Col du 

Lautaret. 

B. St. Michel de Maurienne to La 

Grave. Ascent of the Aiguilles 
dArves. 

C. La Grave to St. Jean de Maurienne. 

D. Bourg d'Oisans to St. Jean de 

Maurienne. 

E. Bourg d'Oisans to La Chambre. 

Ascent of the Grandes Rousses. 

F. Grenoble or Chambery to Allevard. 

Excursions and Passes from Alle- 
vard. 

G. Allevard to Bourg d'Oisans. The 

Sept Laux. 

H. Allevard to La Chambre. 

I. Grenoble to Uriage. Ascent of 

Belledonne. 

Section 9. 
Pelvoux District. 

Route. 

A. Bourg d'Oisans to La B6rarde. 

Valley of the V£n6on. 

B. Excursions and Ascents from La 

Berarde. 

C. Ven6on Valley to La Grave and the 

Lautaret Road. 

D. La Berarde to Vallouise. 

E. V6n£on Valley to the Valgaudemar. 



Route. 

F. V£n£on Valley to the Valjouffrey. 

G. Briancon to Vallouise. Ascent of 

the Mont Pelvoux. 

H. Vallouise to La Grave. 

I. Vallouise to Monetier. 

K. Vallouise to the Valgaudemar. 

L. Vallouise to Gap or Embrun by 

Champol^on or Orcieres. 
M. Valgaudemar to Champoteon. 
N. Grenoble to Bourg d'Oisans by La 

Mure. 

O. La Mure to the Valgaudemar by 
the Valjouffrey and Valsenestre. 

P. Corps to Grenoble by the Devoluy, 
the Vercors, and the Royannais. 
The French Dolomites. 

Q. Briancon to Grenoble by Gap. 

Section 10. 
Grande Chartreuse District. 
Route. 

A. Culoz to Chambery by Aix les 

Bains. Lake of Bourget. 

B. Grenoble to Chambery by the Left 

Bank of the Isere. 

C. Grenoble to Chambery by the Right 

Bank of the Isere. 

D. Grenoble or Chambery to the Grande 

Chartreuse. 

E. ChambeYy to Lyons or Grenoble by 

Aiguebelette and Pont de Beau- 
voisin. 



The extensive mountain region 
which lies between the principal 
ridge of the Cottian Alps (described 
in Chapter II.) and the valley of 
the Rhone occupies nearly the whole 
of the ancient province of the Dau- 
phine, whose limits correspond to the 
three modern departments of the 
Drome, the Isere, and the Hautes 



Alpes. The first and most westerly 
of these, lying between the Rhone 
and the Drac, is traversed by moun- 
tain ranges, chiefly calcareous, of 
which but two or three summits ex- 
ceed 7,000 ft. in height. It is rarely 
visited by foreign travellers, though 
it contains much picturesque and 
pleasing scenery, which is not, how- 



io8 



DAUPHINE ALPS. (COTTIAN ALPS. II.) 



ever, sufficiently Alpine to fall within 
the scope of this work, save for the 
brief indications given in § 9. Rte. P. 
The higher mountains, or Dauphine 
Alps proper, are included within the 
two departments of the Isere and the 
Hautes-Alpes, but in this Chapter 
only the main mass is described, 
the glens E. of the Durance valley 
being more conveniently placed in 
Chapter II., §§ 3-6. This mass is, 
as stated in the Introduction to the 
preceding Chapter, separated from 
the principal ridge of the Cottians by 
the valley of the Durance and of 
its tributary the Guisane, which rises 
in the neighbourhood of the Mont 
Thabor. The entire mass is deeply 
cut through by the valley of the 
Romanche, through which the most 
direct route (but not now the short- 
est, in consequence of the railway 
by Gap) runs from Grenoble to 
Briancon, crossing from the valley of 
the Romanche to that of the Guisane 
branch of the Durance valley by the 



comparatively 



low 



(2,075 



6,808 ft.) pass of the Col du Lau- 
taret. 

The Dauphine Alps described 
in this Chapter fall into three 
groups. The loftiest and most ex- 
tensive of the three is that lying S. 
of the Romanche and Guisane 
valleys, which we shall call, from its 
best known, though not its highest, 
peak, the Pelvoux District (§ 9). 
No part of the Alps is so nearly iso- 
lated as this huge mass, since, save 
for the isthmus of the Col du 
Lautaret, it is completely enclosed 
on the N. by the Romanche and 
Guisane valleys, on the E. by that of 
the Durance, and on the S. and W. by 
the valley of the Drac, which is con- 
nected with that of the Durance by 
the Col de la Croix Haute, over 
which is carried the railway from 
Grenoble by Gap to Embrun (§ 9. 
Rte. Q). 

The next most considerable group 
of the Dauphine Alps is that lying N. 
of the Romanche valley, limited on 
the E. by the Col du Galibier (over 



which there is now a good char road), 
on the N. by the valley of the Arc, 
and on the W. by the Graisivaudan 
or Isere valley, between Montmelian 
and Grenoble. It is called in these 
pages the Aiguilles d'Arves District 
(§8), from the name of the highest 
peaks comprised in it, but it also 
includes the ranges of the Grandes 
Rousses, of Allevard, and of Belle- 
donne. In many ways it may serve as 
an approach or gate of entry to the 
mightier Pelvoux group, of which it 
commands most superb views. 

The last of the three groups 
brought together in this Chapter is 
that composed of the ranges round 
the monastery of the Grande Char- 
treuse (§ 10), on the W. of the 
Graisivaudan valley. Though re- 
sembling in point of scenery, height, 
and geological character the hills of 
the Drome rather than the more 
Alpine groups of the Pelvoux and 
Aiguilles d'Arves, it yet is well worth 
visiting (especially in early summer 
or autumn), apart from the historical 
associations which gather round the 
great religious house which lies erv 
bosomed in its midst. 

The Chartreuse group w T as for long 
the best known and most visited of 
the three into which we have divided 
the Dauphine Alps. But of late 
years the others have received much 
attention, for their natural attractions 
are of a high order. Looking to the 
height of the principal peaks, and 
the grandeur of the rock and glacier 
scenery, the Dauphine Alps (the 
name given to the Pelvoux group par 
excellence) rank next after the 
Pennine and Bernese Alps, and some 
of the higher valleys are scarcely to 
be matched anywhere for wild and 
savage sublimity. They were visited, 
first, by a few foreign men of 
science, such as the botanist Villars, 
and the geologists Elie de Beaumont 
and Lory, while as far back as 1749- 
1754 General Bourcet made surveys 
on the spot for his great map of the 
country (mainly designed for military 
purposes, and still in certain points 



INTRODUCTION 



109 



unsurpassed), and in 1830 another I 
surveyor, Captain Durand, attained 
the highest basin of the Mont Pel- 
voux. The Lautaret, too, was 
crossed by a few stray English 
travellers. But it was not till 184 1 
that a beginning was made of the 
exploration of the higher glacier 
passes. This was done by the late 
Principal J. D. Forbes, who, how- 
ever, hid his remarks away in an 
appendix to a book on Norway, so 
that they are not as well known as 
they deserve to be. In 1855 Mr. 
Blackstone traversed the Col de la 
Lauze, and in 1858 Mr. Nichols the 
Col de la Temple. But it was only 
from i860 to 1865 that the systematic 
examination of the higher Dauphine 
Alps was undertaken. Hence the 
names of Mr. W. Mathews, Prof. 
T. G. Bonney, Mr. Whymper, Mr. 
F. F. Tuckett, Mr. H. Walker, 
and Mr. A. W. Moore should be held 
in honour by all interested in the 
gradual ' discovery ' of the Dauphine 
Alps. The early explorers, however, 
devoted themselves lather to the 
piercing of the mountain ranges by 
passes than to the ascent of the higher 
peaks, the conquests of the N. sum- 
mit of the Grandes Rousses (1863) 
and of the Pointe des Ecrins (1864), 
the culminating point of the entire 
mass, being nearly the only excep- 
tions to this rule. 

The task of later explorers was 
greatly facilitated by the publica- 
tion in 1866 and 1876 of the two 
sheets of the French Ordnance map 
Uo<Joo) wn i cn represent this part of 
the Alps. In June, 1870, Mr. Coolidge 
visited the Dauphine Alps for the 
first time, and turned his attention 
chiefly to the peaks of Dauphine. 
From 1873 onwards the minute 
exploration of these Alps was carried 
on by a small band of mountaineers, 
among whom we may name Mr. 
Coolidge, Mr. Frederick Gardiner, 
and Mr. R. Pendlebury, together 
with a few French climbers, such as 
MM. F. Perrin, H. Duhamel, P. 
Guillemin, and P. Moisson. Gra- 



dually they vanquished all the con- 
spicuous peaks, and explored many 
high passes, some, indeed, of but 
little practical utility. 

By 1887 this second period of 
exploration may be said to have come 
to an end, though many details re- 
mained, and even still remain, to be 
filled in, in order to complete the mi- 
nute knowledge of the country. In that 
year a really good mountain inn was 
opened by the energetic * Societe 
des Touristes du Dauphine ' at La 
Berarde, the natural climbing centre 
of the district ; while Mr. Coolidge, 
with MM. Perrin and Duhamel, 
published a ' Guide du Haut-Dau- 
phine,' specially written for climbers, 
which was followed two years later 
by the issue of some most admirable 
and exact maps of the Pelvoux 
group, due to the unremitting labours 
of M. Duhamel. 

Before 1887 the Dauphine inns 
enjoyed a reputation which was not 
adapted to encourage travellers to 
remain in them longer than they 
could possibly help. Many Club 
huts, indeed, had been built, but 
not a few of these (especially in the 
Department of the Hautes-Alpes) 
were allowed to go to ruin. Since 
1887 the Dauphine inns have been 
vastly improved (save in some of the 
outlying valleys), and every year sees 
a steady and rapid advance. Bourg 
d'Oisans, La Grave, the Lautaret, 
Briancon now possess hotels with 
many modern conveniences and even 
luxuries, while the recent opening of 
the steam tramway from Vizille to 
Bourg d'Oisans, the railway from 
Grenoble by Gap to Briancon, the 
well- organised services of diligences 
of the modern type on the Lautaret 
and Galibier roads, help to make 
communications easy, and so to 
diminish the fatigue of getting from 
the plains into the mountains. 
There are, too, now a few really good 
native guides, especially at St. 
Christophe and La Grave ; but from 
want mainly of experience in other 
parts of the Alps these men are far 



no 



DAUPHINE ALPS. (COTTIAN ALPS. II.) 



better as rock-climbers than as glacier 
guides, and the traveller is still 
advised to insist on the usual pre- 
cautions being taken on ice and 
snow. In time, no doubt, the 
Dauphine cragsmen will acquire a 
competent knowledge of snow craft. 
A tariff for all the principal climbs 
has been published by the above- 
mentioned S.T.D. , which issues 
licences to the guides and porters 
whom it has approved. 

In 1892 Mr. Coolidge and his col- 
leagues put forth a thoroughly revised 
English edition of their book, under 
the title of ' The Central Alps of the 
Dauphiny ' ( 'Climbers' Guides ' Series), 
accompanied by a corrected edition 
of M. Duhamel's maps. This book 
should be consulted for further details 
than can be given in these pages as 
to all climbs in the Pelvoux group, 
and also in the Aiguilles d'Arves 
group between the Col du Galibier 
and the Olle valley. The original 
French work (to which a supplement 
was issued in 1890) must, however, 
still be referred to for the old names 
of peaks and passes, quotations from 
old topographical authorities, and a 
complete list of books and maps re- 
lating to the district. For the Alle- 
vard and Belledonne ranges Joanne's 
' Alpes Dauphinoises,' vol. i. (1890), 
will give all necessary information, 
while Joanne's 'Dauphine' (1898) 
contains a general account of the 
whole district. The valleys E. of the 
Durance are included in Chapter II. , 
§§ 3-6, of the present work. For the 
Chartreuse, and its surroundings, 
Joanne is the best general book, 
but may be supplemented by the 
local guide-books mentioned in § 10. 
Rte. D. 

The Briancon (No. 189) and St. 
Jean de Maurienne (No. 179) sheets 
of the great French map (§0^00) i n ~ 
elude most of the ranges described in 
this Chapter, with the Grenoble (No. 
178) and Vizille (No. 188) sheets for 
some of the minor ridges. It is said 
that the 1^00 ma P ( Carte du Service 
Vicinal) is more accurate (though by 



no means perfect) as regards the 
Belledonne group. 

It has been stated that the earlier 
part of the summer should be pre- 
ferred for climbs in the Pelvoux dis- 
trict, because snow then lies in gullies 
and on slopes which are scarcely 
accessible without its aid. But this 
statement is only exact to a very 
limited extent, though of course in 
the height of the summer there is here, 
as in other parts ' of the Alps, less 
snow than early in the season. It 
must not, however, be supposed that 
spring snow melts faster in Dauphine 
than in portions of the Alpine chain 
further to the N. , as this most certainly 
is not the case. The district, however, 
! seems to rejoice in more steady fine 
j weather than other districts, and 
1 early visitors will be enchanted by 
the richness and beauty of the flora, 
I especially in the neighbourhood of 
the Lautaret. 



SECTION 8. 

AIGUILLES D'ARVES DISTRICT. 

Two streams unite at Briancon to 
form the Durance. One, the Clairee, 
which is the main source of that river, 
flows in from the N.W., having risen 
in the neighbourhood of the Mont 
Thabor. The ridges which enclose 
it have been described in § 6. Rtes. D 
and E. The other, the Guisane, 
j runs in also from the N. W. , but has its 
i origin further W., near the Lautaret 
; and Galibier passes. These last-named 
I passes form the S. and E. limits re- 
| spectively of the district described in 
the present Section. The valley of 
: the Arc on the N. , and that of Graisi- 
I vaudan on the W. , are the other boun- 
daries. The ranges enclosed within 
these limits are really the most westerly 
outliers of the Cottian Alps, and 
indeed of the entire Alpine chain. 
But they have no one centre, and are. 



§ 8. AIGUILLES D'ARVES DISTRICT 



in these pages, grouped together I 
simply for reasons of practical con- 
venience. In olden days they formed | 
the line of division between Dauphine 
and Savoy, and the highest summits, 
besides many minor ones, are on the 
Savoy side of the watershed. Yet, as 
they are usually attacked from the 
Dauphine side, they may be included, 
without confusing the reader, among 
the Dauphine Alps, which are the 
subject of this Chapter. Many tra- 
vellers, too, approach the higher 
peaks of Dauphine over the peaks 
and passes of this group, which for 
want of a better name may take that 
of its loftiest summits. 

As has been pointed out already, j 
these ranges are made up of several ! 
more or less independent clusters of 
mountains. Three, or even four, may 
fee distinguished. 

1. The most easterly of these in- 
cludes the ridges between the Col du 
Galibier and the Col des Pres 
Nouveaux, or, in other words, between j 
the Valloirette and Arvan torrents, j 
It includes the Aiguilles d'Arves, 
three rock pinnacles so extremely 
steep as to be nearly clear of snow, j 
the Central (3,511 m., 11,520 ft.) 
and Southern (3,509 m., 11,513 ft.) j 
points being the highest summits de- j 
scribed in the present Section. They 
lie nearly N. of La Grave, but are j 
wholly on the Savoy side of the water- 
shed. From these points a high 
ridge extends to the N. between the 
Valloirette and Arvan torrents, of 
which the Grande Chible (2,936 m., 
9,633 ft.) is the N. end. 

2. Next comes the range of the 
Grandes Rousses (3,473 m., 11,395 
ft. ), which stretches in a long snow- | 
clad ridge, with many glaciers, from 
N. to S. between the Col des Pres 
Nouveaux and the winding course of 
the Olle on the W. This range in- 
cludes by far the most extensive snow 
fields in the entire district, as there 
are but two small glaciers on the E. 
side of the Aiguilles d'Arves, and the 
snow basin of the Glacier Lombard on 
their S. 



3. W. of the Grandes Rousses, and 
separated from them by the valley of 
the Olle, is a lofty, but much longer, 
ridge. This extends parallel to the 
course of the Isere on the W. from 
Vizille nearly to Aiguebelle, and its 
influence on the direction of the 
valleys is seen in the bend which the 
Arc makes to the N. , and the 
Romanche to the S., before they 
respectively join the Isere. The Col 
de la Coche and the plateau of the 
Sept Laux really subdivide this group 
into two distinct portions. That on 
the N. and E. may be roughly de- 
scribed as the mountains around 
Allevard, of which the highest sum- 
mits are the Puy Gris (2,992 m., 
9,816 ft.) and the Rocher Blanc 
(2,931m., 9,617 ft.), while the Pic du 
Frene (2,808 m., 9,213 ft.) is the last 
lofty peak at the N. end of the ridge. 
S.W. of the Col de la Coche and W. 
of the middle bit of the Olle glen is 
the tangled cluster of peaks cul- 
minating in Belledonne (2,981 m., 
9,781 ft.), which is also their best 
known summit. 

All these ranges are described in 
succession in the following Section — 
the Aiguilles d'Arves group in Rtes. B 
and C, that of the Grandes Rousses in 
Rtes. D and E, and the Allevard 
mountains in Rtes. F, G, and H, 
while Rte. I is devoted to Belle- 
donne and its neighbours. It is also 
most convenient to include in this 
Section accounts of the Col du Lau- 
taret (Rte. A), its S. boundary, and 
of the Col du Galibier (Rte. B), its 
E. limit. The valley of the Arc 
(N. limit) is described in § 7. 
Rtes. A and B, and the Graisivaudan 
(W, limit) in § 10. Rtes. B and C. 
§ 9 is taken up with the main mass 
of the high Dauphine peaks, which 
form a great mountain peninsula, 
linked to the rest by the isthmus of 
the Col du Lautaret. 



ii2 DAUPHINE ALPS. §8. AIGUILLES D'ARVES DISTRICT 



Route A. 

GRENOBLE TO BRIANCON BY THE 
COL DU LAUTARET. 

M. 



Vizille station . . 9 

Vizille (town) . .11 

Sechilienne . . 14 
RochetailMe-Allemont 26 

La Paute-Ornon . 28k 

Bourg d'Oisans. . 30 j 

Pont St. Guillerme . 33 V 

Le Freney . . .38 

Le Dauphin . . 40 

La Grave . . .46 

Villard d'Arene. . 48 

Col du Lautaret . 53 

Le Lauzet . . -55 

Monetier les Bains . 595 

Briancon . . .69 



Railway to Vizille station in about : 
25 min. ; thence steam tramway to 
Bourg d'Oisans in about 2 hrs., and 
by breaks over the col in 8^-9 h hrs. 
(reverse direction, 8 hrs.) to Briancon 
station (including 1 hr. halt for 
lunch). 

Grenoble (215 m., 705 ft.), the 
ancient capital of Dauphine, and the 
present capital of the department of 
the Isere, as well as a fortress of the 
first class, stands on the Isere. a little 
above its junction with the Drac, into 
which, some way S., near Vizille, the 
Romanche (coming from the Col du 
Lautaret) has poured its muddy 
waters. No city in France and scarce 
any other in Europe enjoys so fine a 
position as Grenoble, which lies in a 
plain at the meeting point of three 
great valleys, and is surrounded on 
all sides by mountains. Of these the 
most conspicuous are Belledonne 
on the E., Taillefer, with its two 
humps, on the S.E., and the Moucke- 
rotte on the S., while to the N. the 
picturesquely placed fortifications 
climb from the ancient quarter of 
St. Laurent (the original town) up 
the heights of the Mont Rachais, the 
last spur of the ranges of the Grande 
Chartreuse. The city has about 64, 000 
inhabitants, and its chief manufacture 
is kid gloves (* gants Jouvin ? ), while 



there are important factories of Port- 
land cement. For further particulars 
as to this pleasant city the traveller 
should refer to M. Duhamel's handy 
4 Grenoble considere comme Centre 
d'Excursions Alpestres ' (1893), or the 
'Excursions dans le Dauphine,' 
issued by the 'Syndicat dTnitiative 
de Grenoble ' (at the office of which, 
2 Rue Montorge, and corner of the 
Place Grenette, the centre of the 
town, information is readily given gratis 
to all strangers, who may also there 
purchase tickets for various circular 
tours in the environs), or Joanne's 
' Alpes Dauphinoises,' vol. i. (1890), 
and his 1 Dauphine ' (1898). 

Grenoble is an admirable centre 
for excursions. That to the Grande 
Chartreuse is described in s> 10. 
Rte. D, the ascent of Belle- 
donne from Uriage in Rte. I. below, 
the neighbourhood of Allevard in 
Rtes. F and G, below, and the 
ascent of the Taillefer in the pre- 
sent Rte. But the finest mountain 
ascent which can be made hence in 
one day up and down ( 10 hrs. in all) is 
that of the Moucherotte (1,906 m., 
6,253 ft. ), which forms so conspicuous 
a feature in the view to the S. 
St. Nizier is the best starting point 
for the actual climb, and may be 
gained by char road from Grenoble 
by Seyssinet, and the Tour Sans 
Venin in 3| hrs., or by a longer 
route past Sassenage to Engins 
(9m.), in the gorges of the same name 
(see Rte. P), whence a foot path leads 
over to St. Nizier by the Pas du Care 
in i\ hr. (There are foot paths from 
Seyssinet which are both shorter and 
more picturesque than the new road. ) 
From St. Nizier a point W. of and be- 
low the Ravix farmhouse is reached in 
\ hr. , and by a steep path the pretty 
6 prairie du Volant ' in another | hr. 
The path, henceforth indicated by 
signposts, mounts through a chimney, 
then by pastures, and finally reaches 
the summit from the W. (2§ hrs. 
from St. Nizier. ) The view includes 
the whole of the Dauphine Alps, as 
well as Mont Blanc and the Taren- 



ROUTE A. GRENOBLE TO BRIANCON 



taise, while the plain of Grenoble lies 
unrolled at the spectator's feet. This 
excursion cannot be too highly recom- 
mended. 

As stated above Grenoble is situ- 
ated at the meeting point of three j 
valleys, and these afford the easiest 
means of approach by three main 
lines of railway (not to speak of some 
local branches). On the N. W. is the 
line to Lyons (75 m.), by which 
Grenoble is reached from Paris in j 
12-14 hrs. On the N.E. is that j 
(3o|m.)to Montmelian(§ 10. Rte. B), 
where the main line from Geneva to 
Turin is joined. To the S. is the 
mountain line (§ 9. Rte. Q) to Veynes 
(69 m.), whence one branch leads to j 
Marseilles (121 m.), and another 
(§ 9. Rte. Q) to Gap (16 m.) and j 
Briancon (51 m. from Gap). It is 
this last-named line that a traveller j 
must follow for a short way, if bound 
for the Col du Lautaret. 

The head of the valley of the 
Durance is reached from the Italian 
side by lower and easier passes than ■ 
any which traverse the main chain I 
of the Alps between the Tyrol and j 
the Mediterranean. But to reach it 
from Grenoble it is necessary either 1 
to cross the Dauphine Alps, inter- 
vening between the Isere and the upper 
Durance, or to make a long circuit j 
by the valley of the Drac and Gap. 
This circuit is actually made by the 
railway, which runs from Grenoble j 
over the Col de la Croix Haute and by j 
Gap to Briancon (136 m. of very hilly 
ground, covered in 7^-8 hrs. — Rte.Q). 
But the direct route is by the carriage 
road over the Col du Lautaret, de- 
scribed in this Rte. That Col, how- 
ever, is considerably higher than the 
Mont Genevre (by which Briancon is 
best reached from Turin : see § 6. 
Rte. A), and is approached on the W. 
side by the valley of the Romanche, 
beset with formidable obstacles to 
the construction of a road. The old 
Roman track passed along the heights 
above the gorges : the new road was 
begun by the great Napoleon in 
1808, but constructed at irregular 



intervals, and only completed by 
Napoleon III. in 1861. It may vie 
with the most celebrated Alpine 
passes in point of wild and striking 
scenery visible from the road, and for 
the remarkable engineering works by 
which the difficulties of the under- 
taking have been surmounted. 

On leaving Grenoble the line to 
Vizille runs in a S. direction, parallel 
for a time with the fine boulevard of 
the Cours St. Andre, to the station 
of Pont de Claix (5 m. ), where there 
is a remarkable bridge, built in 161 1, 
from the parapets of which a fine view 
of the surrounding mountain ranges 
may be gained. The line now turns 
S.E. , and passes the junction of the 
Drac and the Romanche a little before 
reaching the station of Vizille (9 m. 
from Grenoble). Here the railway 
to Veynes is quitted for the new steam 
tramway (another leads to Uriage : 
see Rte. I), which in 2 m. reaches 
the town of Vizille, after passing 
through a narrow gorge of the 
Romanche. The old Chateau was 
much enlarged and adorned ( 1610-23) 
by the famous Constable Lesdiguieres, 
though a wing was burnt in 1865. 
In 1788 the tennis court in this castle 
was the scene of the great meeting of 
the deputies of the Dauphine, sitting 
without distinction of ranks, who de- 
manded the calling together of the 
Etats Generaux of France, and thus 
took the first step towards the French 
Revolution. The Perier family (who 
sold it in 1895) established in it an 
extensive factory for cotton spinning, 
&c. , which employed 1,500 persons. 
The tramway runs through the narrow 
streets of Vizille and keeps along the 
right bank of the Romanche, gradu- 
| ally turning E. through a deep gorge. 
1 In a green basin is Sechilienne (3 m. 
I from the town of Vizille). 
j [This is the usual starting point 
; for the ascent of Taillefer (2,861 m. , 
j 9,387 ft.), which commands a 
j most admirable view of all the 
Dauphine Alps, small and great. 
! A char road goes in 1 m. to St. 
j Bartkelemi, whence a mule path 



H4 DAUPHINE ALPS. §8. AIGUILLES D'ARVES DISTRICT 



leads up in less than 3 hrs. to 
La Morte (1,420 m., 4,659 ft.), a 
small hamlet near which the ' Societe 
des Touristes du Dauphin e 5 has 
built a little inn for the use of travel- 
lers. Hence 4-4J hrs. are required 
to reach the summit. The track 
mounts E. by meadows, brushwood, 
and pine forests to the upper pastures, 
and gains the Pravourey lake. A bad 
path strikes across rocky slopes to the 
deserted mine of Brouffier, easily 
found, owing to its yellow colour. A 
ridge is crossed to the Emay ravine 
(here falls in the way from Lavaldens : 
see § 9. Rte. N. b), the ridge on the 1. 
(or E.) side of which is climbed by 
stones and snow to the top of the 
peak. It is perfectly easy to go 
straight down from the depression 
between the two summits (J hr. from 
the higher) by snow and a stony 
couloir to the picturesque, lake- 
dotted pasture plateau on the N. of 
Taillefer (there is a pretty mule path 
from the Poursollet lake to Gavet, in 
the Romanche valley). The smaller 
lakes can be gained in less than an 
hour from the depression (under 
favourable circumstances), and thence 
paths on either side of the torrent 
(those on the 1. bank are shorter 
but steeper) lead down in ij-ij hr. 
to the village of Ornon, a little above 
the hamlet of La Palud, which is 4J m. 
by char road (coming from the Col 
d'Ornon : see § 9. Rte. N) from 
Bourg d'Oisans, or the steam tramway 
from Vizille can be taken half way at 
the station of La Patite-Omo??.^ 

(For the track from Sechilienne to 
Premol see Rte. I. ) 

The valley now contracts between 
Taillefer and the spurs of Belledonne, 
and runs in a N.E. direction. 
The gorge is called the Combe de 
Gavet, and the hamlets of Gavet, 
Rioupcroux , and Livet (for the way 
hence to Chanrousse see Rte. I). 
The wild torrent of Vaudaine is 
crossed, and at the end of the long 
gorge the valley opens out at Les 
Sables, where is the station of Roche- 
taillee-Allemofit (15 m. from the town 



of Vizille). (For Belledonne see 
Rte. I ; for the Sept Laux, Rte. G ; 
and for the pass to La Chambre, and 
the Grandes Rousses see Rte. E. ) 
Les Sables is at the confluence of 
the Olle with the Romanche, and at 
the entrance to the basin or plain at 
the further end of which is Bourg 
d'Oisans, 4 J m. distant past the 
station of La Paute-Ornon (see 
above for Taillefer, and for the Col 
d'Ornon § 9. Rte. N). This plain 
was the scene of one of the most 
remarkable geological catastrophes 
the history of which has been pre- 
served by authentic records. In the 
course of the twelfth century a terrific 
bergfall from the Vaudaine, a great 
spur of Belledonne which encloses 
! the Combe de Gavet on the N. side, 
I completely barred the course of the 
l Romanche, which rose to such a 
height that the plain on which Bourg 
d'Oisans and other villages now stand 
was converted into a large lake, 
known as the Lac de St. Laurent, 
more than 30 ft. deep. Villages and 
; farms with a large part of the popula- 
tion utterly disappeared, and the 
; survivors gained a subsistence by 
fishing on the site of their former 
dwellings. This state of things con- 
| tinued until the night of September 
1 4- 15, 1219, when the barrier gave 
way, and the pent-up waters, sud- 
denly set free, swept with fearful 
violence down the valley. Of the 
villages near the valley not a trace 
remained, and the inundation reached 
even to Grenoble, where crowds of 
fugitives, stopped in their flight by a 
gate over the stone bridge, were 
carried off by the flood. The present 
fertility of the plain of Bourg d'Oisans, 
and the transported blocks which 
are scattered over the valley of the 
Romanche about Vizille,' owe their 
origin to this catastrophe, more 
enduring in its effects than the storms 
of war which have repeatedly swept 
over the same district. 

Bourg d'Oisans is a small country 
town (729m., 2,392 ft. ) agreeably situ- 
ated, with a view of the opening of the 



ROUTE A. GRENOBLE TO BRIAN^ON 



Combe de Malaval to the S.E., and 
of the valley of the Veneon to the S. 
The neighbouring mountains are rich 
in minerals, especially the mines of 
Chalanches, near Ailemont (see Rte. 
E). Bourg d'Oisans is generally made 
the starting point for the valley of 
the Veneon (§ 9. Rte. A), and for the 
Col du Lautaret to Briancon (see 
below). 

[Pleasant excursions may be made 
hence to the villages of Villard 
Eymond and Villard Raymond, 
lying on a great grassy shelf above 
the precipices which overshadow 
Bourg d'Oisans on the W. and S. W.', 
and also to the Plateau de Brandes 
on the E. (gained in 2\ hrs. by way 
of La Garde and Huez), where are 
extensive remains of buildings attri- 
buted to the Romans. The guide will 
point out the site of many mines, now 
abandoned, and higher up considerable 
deposits of anthracite. Rather more 
than 1 hr. above Brandes is the Lac 
Blanc, one of the highest lakes, for 
its dimensions, in the Alps. It is 
nearly \ m. long, and no yards 
wide. On its N.E. shore are seen 
the traces of ancient mining works, 
and the remains of a paved road, con- 
structed at some early period for 
the use of the miners, It is in some 
places either covered over or carried 
away by the moraines of existing 
glaciers. It is easy to pass from the 
lake between the Petites Rousses and 
the main chain of the Grandes Rous- 
ses along the upper of the two Rousses 
terraces mentioned in Rte. E to the 
Col du Couard (3 hrs.), or to descend 
from the Fare lake to the Fare Club 
hut (20 min. ) That Club hut (be- 
longing to the S.T.D.), whence the 
various summiis of the Grandes 
Rousses chain are accessible (see 
Rte. E), is best reached from Bourg 
d'Oisans in 4J hrs. by La Garde, 
Huez, the AIpe huts, the lower 
lake terrace, and. the Carrelet lake.] 

At Les Sables the range coming 
down from Beliedonne has turned the 
course of the Romanche at right angles 
to its previous direction. Beyond 



Bourg d'Oisans this direction is again 
changed by the great ridge extending 
W. from the Meije. The road on 
leaving Bourg d'Oisans crosses to the 
r. bank of the Romanche and runs 
S.E. along that bank, through an 
avenue of poplars, over a nearly level 
reach of richly cultivated country, 
enclosed between mountains of mo- 
derate height, till it regains the 1. bank 
(3 m.) by the Pont St. Guillerme. 
(Here turns off the char road up the 
Veneon valley towards La Berarde, 
§ 9. Rte. A. ) Between this point and 
Le Freney the valley of the Romanche 
is contracted to a mere defile, en- 
closed between vertical rocks of 
gneiss. The river has cut for itself 
a channel at a great depth below the 
level of the road, which is carried 
along the 1. bank, sometimes on 
ledges cut into the rock, sometimes 
supported on terraces of masonry, and 
in one spot carried through a tunnel 
180 m. (591 ft.) in length. This is 
the gorge of Infemey, or Malaval, 
and is the finest bit of the road. On 
issuing from it a green basin is 
reached, in which stands Le Freney, 
7 J m. from Bourg d'Oisans. (For the 
Col des Pres Nouveaux hence to St. 
Jean de Maurienne see Rte. D. 1, and 
for the Col de l'Alpe in the opposite 
direction to Venose, in the Veneon 
valley, see § 9. Rte. C. 1.) Another 
narrow gorge is traversed before 
passing the miserable houses of Le 
Dauphin, standing in the midst of 
huge fragments of fallen rock. Thi 
cliffs forming the S. wall of the valley 
are crowned by the great Glacier du 
Montde Lans, the largest in Dauphine, 
and projecting portions of its frozen 
mass are seen through the ravines 
that open into the Combe. At Le 
Dauphin the road crosses to the r. 
bank, and soon after passes the fins 
waterfall of La Pisse, which comes 
down from a height of 200 m. (656 
ft.) The Romanche flows through 
a deep and gloomy ravine, the Combe 
de Malaval, which sometimes opens 
a little, and exhibits, in wild con- 
I fusion, huge masses of rock torn 



xi6 DAUPHINE ALPS. §8. AIGUILLES D'ARVES DISTRICT 



down from the crags above ; at other 
times the precipices approach more 
nearly together, and the glacier 
streams that reach their verge spring 
from a considerable height into the 
chasm through which the road is 
carried. The finest is that of La 
Pisse, mentioned above ; another, 
the Sant de la Pticelle, or des Freaux, 
falling 80 m. (262 ft.), is nearer La 
Grave, and just beyond some exten- 
sive lead mines, now no longer 
worked. Soon after (15J m. from 
Bourg d'Oisans) the road turns a 
corner and enters the village of La 
Grave (1,526 m., 5,007 ft.), the 
houses of which are huddled together 
on a steep slope N. of the high road. 

La Grave is placed in the midst 
of very grand Alpine scenery. Just 
opposite rises the Meije (3,987 
m., 13,081 ft., the second peak 
in the district), streaming with 
glaciers, above which towers the 
grim black final ridge. The view 
is one of the finest to be obtained 
from a road in the Alps, as the 
glaciers and peaks are close at hand, 
and is said to be equalled only by 
that from the Stelvio. 

[La Grave is one of the best 
centres in the district for a stay 
of some days. Besides the excursions 
to the foot of the glacier coming 
down from the Breche de la Meije 
(just W. of the Meije), I hr., and 
to the Plateau de Paris (on 
which there is now a small inn), 
on the N. side of the valley (2 hrs. ), 
to enjoy the view of the Meije (far 
better seen from a height above the 
village than from the village itself), it 
is worth while visiting two little 
mountain inns : one is near the Puy 
Vachier lake, on the way to the Col 
de la Lauze (§ 9. Rte. C. 2), and the 
other at Alfie, on the way to the Col 
du Clot des Cavales (§ 9. Rte. C. 4.), 
each about 3 hrs. off. A delightful 
expedition is to go on from the 
former in z\ hrs. to the Col de la 
Lauze, then keeping to the W. along 
the S. edge of the splendid snow field 
of the Glacier du Mont de Lans, and 



• descending to the Lac Noir Club hut 
(3 hrs.), whence Le Freney or St. 
Christophe can be gained. 

The chief belvederes around La 
Grave are the Aiguille du Goleon, 
3,429 m., 11,251 ft. (5 hrs. by 
the S.E. face or arete), and the 
\ Pic des Trois Eve ekes, 3,120 m., 
10,237 ft. (4 hrs. by the N.E. 
ridge) ; both are on the N. side of the 
valley, and command superb views of 
the Meije group opposite. The 
Bee de P Homme, 3,457 m., 11,342 ft. 
(5 hrs.), affords a nearer sight of that 
wonderful group, but if the projected 
Club hut at the Rocher de l'Aigle 
(4 hrs. from La Grave), at the S. foot 
of the Bee, is built it is almost a 
pity not to climb the very beautiful 
and not difficult E. Summit of the 
Meije (3,911 m., 12,832 ft.), acces- 
sible in 2 J-3 hrs. , according to the 
state of the snow, whence the sudden 
sight of the Central Summit of the 
Meije is overwhelming, and one 
understands why the Monetier folk 
1 call it 'Le Doigt de Dieu.' This 
! Central Summit (3,970 m., 13,025 ft. ) 
■ can be gained in rather less time 
from the Club hut, but is harder as a 
climb than the E. Summit. From it 
: the traveller can marvel at the long 
jagged ridge which connects it with 
the W, and highest Summit 1 (3,987 m. , 
; 13,081 ft.), and admire the audacity 
I of H err en O. and E. Zsigmondy and 
L. Purtscheller, who were the first 
(and that without" guides) to force it 
in 1S85. This route has since become 
better known, and is now frequently 
traversed every summer, 2f-4 hrs. 
being required. Another attraction 
' at La Grave to the climber is the 
; S. Aiguille d'Arves, which is thence 
; reached in 7 hrs. or so by way of the 
Col Lombard (Rte. B. 3). (For the 
numerous passes from La Grave see 
Rtes. B and C for those to the X.. 
and § 9. Rtes. C and H, for those to 
the S. For the alternative route to 
Monetier by the Col d^Arsine see 
below. '3 

I Beyond La Grave the road traverses 
I two tunnels (always light 3d by lamps), 



ROUTE A. GRENOBLE TO BRIANCON 



117 



and passes above the village of 
Villard d'Arene (1, 651 m., 5,417 ft.), 
and, later, the hamlet of Pied du Col, 
in order to mount by many great zig- 
zags (pedestrians can find many short 
cuts) towards the Col du Lautaret. 
From one of these zigzags a glimpse 
of the Ecrins, the monarch of the 
district, is caught through the upper 
Romanche glen. This valley turns 
S. from Villard d'Arene, and from the 
road fine views of it are gained, 
backed by the graceful snowy pyramid 
of the Mont eigne des Agneaax (3,660 
m., 12,008 ft.) The stone Hospice 
on the Col du Lautaret (2,075 m -> 
6,808 ft.) is attained in 7 m. from 
La Grave, and opposite it is the new 
inn, built in the style of a Swiss 
chalet. The summit of the pass is a 
wide sweep of pasture, and, like the j 
slopes towards Villard d'Arene, and 
also on the way to the Col du 
Galibier, is celebrated for the variety 
of rare Alpine plants to be found 
there. A list would include a large 
part of the Alpine flora. The view 
of the Meije and its attendant peaks, 
the Pavi, the Pic Gaspard, and the 
Pics de Neige du Lautaret, with 
glaciers streaming from them, all seen 
above the great ice basin of the 
Homme glacier, is one of the most 
striking scenes in the entire range of 
the Alps, and is alone worth the 
trouble of visiting the Lautaret. The 
Hospice was originally founded by 
the Dauphins in the eleventh century 
at the spot on the E. of the pass still 
called La Madeleine, and was only 
later transferred to the summit of the 
Col. The geologist will not fail to 
notice the singular relations of the lime- 
stones and slates on the W. side of 
the Col with the adjoining crystalline 
rocks. In several places the former 
are seen to underlie extensive masses 
of gneiss or schistose granite, affording 
a remarkable example of the so-called 
fan structure. One section, on the 
S. side of the valley, opposite Villard 
d'Arene, has been noticed and de- 
scribed by M. Eliede Beaumont ; while 
Principal Forbes pointed out the 



existence of another in the lower part 
of the Combeynot group, which sepa- 
rates the Col from the upper valley 
of the Romanche. The section is 
equally well seen from both sides of 
the promontory between the two tor- 
rents. 

[The first excursion to be made from 
the Lautaret is that to the top of the 
Col du Galibier, 2,658 m., 8,721 ft. 
(i |-2hrs. ), over which a char road 
(described in Rte. B) now runs to St. 
Michel de Maurienne, in the Arc 
valley. A curious winding foot path (the 
' sender des crevasses ') leads round 
the N.W. flank of the Combeynot 
group to the mountain inn at Alpe (2 
hrs. ), whence many passes (§ 9. Rte. 
C) lead to La Berarde, and the Col 
d'Arsine in 3 hrs. to Monetier. 

Among the ascents from the Lau- 
taret that of the Roche du Grand 
Galibier (3,242 m., 10,637 ft.) is 
especially recommended ; it takes 
3^-4^- hrs. or so, and the panorama 
is most wonderful, extending to 
Monte Viso. The Pic de Combeynot 
(3,163 m. , 10,377 ft. ) maybe reached 
by a steep climb of 3 hrs. from the 
Hospice, and the Pic des Trois 
Eveches (3,120 m., 10,237 ft.) by an 
easier one of 4 hrs. J 

The road descends in zigzags, soon 
meets the Guisane, coming down 
from the Col du Galibier, and fol- 
lows it on its left bank to Briancon. 
La Madeleine, where the Hospice 
originally was, is passed, and later Le 
Lauzet, with some anthracite mines. 
(Hence the Col de la Ponsonniere 
leads in 6j hrs. to Valloire. ) The 
valley becomes more smiling as the 
road, passing above the stony plain 
whereon stands the hamlet of Le 
C as set (overhung by the fine Pic 
Gardiner, 3,400 m., 11,155 ft.), 
approaches Monetier les Bains, 6J in. 
from the Col. There are mineral 
waters here, used for baths and 
also internally. The village is at the 
height of 1,493 m - (45898 ft.), yet is 
still surrounded by barley fields and 
fruit trees. 

[It lies too low as a starting point 



itS DAUPHINE ALPS. § 8. AIGUILLES D'ARVES DISTRICT 



for any ascent, save, perhaps, that of 
the Pic des Pres les Ponds, 3,363 
m., 11,034 ft. (6J hrs. ), though the 
Montague des Agneaux (3,660 m., 
12,008 ft.) and other summits may 
be taken on the way over to the 
Tuckett Club hut by glacier passes 
(§ 9. Rte. I). On the W. the Col 
d' A rsine (2,400 m., 7,874 ft.) leads 
in under 4 hrs. to the mountain inn 
at Alpe (§ 9. Rte. C), while on the 
N.E. the grassy Col de Buff ere 
(e. 2,000 m.j 6,562 ft.), or the Col de 
Cristol (2,500 m., 8,202 ft.), more to 
the E., with its pretty lake, enables a 
traveller to gain Nevache, in the 
Clairee valley (§ 6. Rte. D), in 4 J hrs. 
from Monetier. (For the passes to 
the Vallouise see § 9. Rte. I. )J 

From Monetier the road descends 
gently down the Guisane valley, 
which is fertile and populous on its 
]. bank, while that opposite is covered 
with splendid pine forests. As the 
traveller advances he gains fine views 
of the little town of Briancon, on its 
heights, crowned by its formidable 
forts, and backed by the cone of the 
Rochebntne (3,324 m., 10,906 ft.) 
The road to the station avoids the 
town itself, passing round its W. side 
in order to go down to the level plain 
below, where is (9J m. from Monetier) 
the railway station of Briancon. The 
railway descends the Durance valley 
in order to gain Gap and Grenoble, 
while on the E. the great carriage 
road over the Mont Genevre leads to 
the Mont Cenis line at Oulx. For a 
description of Briancon and its neigh- 
bourhood (including passes to Chateau 
Queyras, to Bardonneche, and to St. 
Michel) see § 6. 



Routs B. 

ST. MICHEL DE MAURIENNE TO THE 
LAUTARET ROAD. ASCENT OF 
THE AIGUILLES D'ARVES. 

The valley of the Romanche, 
through which passes the Lautaret 
road, described in the preceding Rte. , 
runs, as far as Bourg d'Oisans, near 
its junction with the Olle, in a 
direction which is roughly E. and W. 
A not very different course is followed 
by the Arc (through which passes the 
route to the Mont Cenis — § 7. Rtes. 
A and B), between St. Michel de 
Maurienne and La Chambre. But 
these two valleys are separated by an' 
intricate set of mountain ridges, of 
which the Aiguilles d'Arves and the 
Grandes Rousses are the loftiesi 
points. Hence there are many passes 
from one to the other. In this Rte. 
those leading from St. Michel de 
Maurienne, in the Arc valley, to the 
Romanche valley are enumerated, in 
Rtes. C and D those leading to St. 
Jean de Maurienne, and in Rte. E 
that to La Chambre. 

In the case of the passes from St. 
Michel, La Grave, on the Lautaret 
road, is the natural point for which to 
make, but since the opening of the 
char road over the Col du Galibier 
the Lautaret Hospice is the spot on 
the Lautaret road most easily attained 
from St. Michel. Besides this con- 
venient way, a pass which even 
moderate pedestrians can cross with- 
out difficulty is described, and finally 
the high level route recommended to 
mountaineers. 

1 . By the Col du Galibier ( 26 J m . to 
the Lautaret Hospice by a good char 
road, over which runs a break, in 
connection with the P.L.M. railway, 
taking 8 J hrs. , including 1 hr. 's halt 
for lunch, from St. Michel, and 6 hrs. 
in the reverse direction). 

On leaving St. Michel the road 
traverses the Arc, and then the 
torrent from the Valmeinier, before 
mounting by means of a great 



ROUTE B. 

series of zigzags (some very long) the 
steep forest-clad slopes leading up to 
the ridge above the r. bank of the 
Valloirette torrent, which flows 
through a deep gorge to join the Arc 
below St. Michel. Fine views are 
obtained towards the N. over the 
glaciers of the Peclet group. A final 
very long zigzag ends in a tunnel by 
which that ridge is pierced, and the 
road then turns sharply to the S., 
keeping high above the Valloirette, in 
the direction of the smiling pasture 
basin in which lies the large village of 
Valloire. The road gradually de- 
scends to and crosses the stream be- 
fore reaching the village (io m. from 
St. Michel, about 3 firs.' walk), 
(Pedestrians are strongly recom- 
mended to leave the last very long 
zigzag mentioned above in order to 
mount S.W. by the old stony mule 
path to the chapel on the ridge, by 
which stand three crosses [\ hr-. ) 
Hence there is a superb view of the 
Ecrins, as well as of the Aiguilles 
d'Arves. By descending on the other 
side the hamlet of Le C/os, on the 
high road, is gained in \ hr. ) 

Valloire (1,430 m., 4,692 ft.) is a 
charmingly situated village, which 
may tempt the traveller who is not 
in a hurry to halt there for a day 
or two. 

[On the W. the valley is shut in by a 
high jagged ridge, over which lie many 
rough, but not difficult, passes to the 
lower bit of the Arvan glen. Its N. 
end, the Point e de la Grande Chible 
(2,936 m., 9,633 ft.), can be reached 
without any difficulty in 4 \ hrs. by 
way of the hamlet of Poingt Ravier 
and the S.W. or E. ridge : it com- 
mands a very extensive view. A 
better point whence to study the 
Aiguilles d'Arves— not seen from 
Valloire or its immediate neighbour- 
hood — is the Aiguille de V Epaisseur 
(3,241 m. , 10,633 ft.), which may be 
attained in 5-J hrs. from Valloire 
through the Combe des Aiguilles — 
see 3. below— and by the S.E. arete, 
there being no difficulty, though some 
snow, on the way. On the E. the 



VALLOIRE 119 

! Valloirette valley is bounded by a 
I long ridge separating it from the 
j Plagnetta glen, through which lies the 
rough track to the Col de V Aiguille 
Noire, by which Nevache, in the 
j Clairee valley (§ 6. Rte. D. 1), may be 
reached in 7 hrs. Just W. of the pass 
is the striking double peak of the 
I Aiguille Noire (2,892 m., 9,489 ft.), 
which, despite its formidable appear - 
| ance from afar, can be gained by a 
\ short scramble up its S. arete in 
j about 1 hr. from the Col, or in \\ hrs. 
j from Valloire (see § 6. Rte. D. i).J 

Soon after quitting the village the 
j road crosses to the 1. bank of the 
Valloirette, and a distan view is ob- 
I tained of the Roche cat Grand Gali- 
I bier (3,242 m., 10,637 ft.), with a 
steep snow gully between its two 
summits,, at the head of the valley. 
The stream is again crossed at the 
hamlet of La Ravine (here turns off 
the way to the Aiguilles d'Arves : 
j see 3. below), and continues to mount 
slightly in a S. direction. Opposite 
i the opening of the Combe des 
Aiguilles a fleeting glimpse of the 
Aiguilles d'Arves is obtained. The 
I road passes beneath the hamlet of 
i Bonnemtit, passing, at the junction 
of the further path from that hamlet, 
the path to the Col du Gole'on 
; (below, 2) and to a short cut to the 
j Galibier by the Losettes huts, and 
j beyond gains the base of the final 
ascent to the Col du Galibier. 

[Here — 2\ hrs.' walk from Valloire 
j — turn off the paths to the Col des 
Roc hi lies, leading in 4J hrs. to Nevache 
! (§6. Rte. D. 2), and the Col de la Pon- 
i sonniere, leading to Le Lauzet, on the 
Lautaret road, in 6 hrs.J 

Many great zigzags lead up to a 
pasture basin in which are some huts, 
and then more zigzags to the tunnel, 
which pierces the ridge of the Col a 
little below the crest of the pass 
(10J m. from Valloire). But even the 
most moderate walkers are advised to 
follow the old char road across the 
crest itself, a very slight detour, and 
one rewarded by an extremely fine 
view, in which the Ecrins and the 



120 DAUPHINfi ALPS. § 8. AIGUILLES D'ARVES DISTRICT 



Aiguilles d'Arves are the principal | 
features. The height of the pass is | 
2,658 m., 8,721 ft., and the road is ! 
the highest in Europe save that over j 
the Stelvio (2,760 m., 9,055 ft.) j 
The descent on the other side by a | 
fresh series of zigzags is far shorter j 
than the ascent has been. At the 
Mandette huts pedestrians can strike 
S.W. across the pastures direct to the 
Hospice. The road goes down to 
that of the Lautaret, and then mounts 
slightly to the Hospice, 6 m. from the 
Col. A fast walker can go in 4 hrs. 
from Yalloire to the Hospice, but 
5 are amply sufficient. Many of the 
rarest plants in the Alps are found on 
the S. slope of the pass, which is 
really the continuation of the famous 
pastures of the Col du Lautaret. 

2. By the Col du Goleon (foot path in j 
6J-7 hrs. from Yalloire to La Grave). ! 

From Yalloire the Galibier road is 1 
followed for \\ hr. till the second 
cross, marking a branch path to 
Bonnenuit, is reached. The Goleon 
route descends into the Losettes glen, 
and goes up it in order to gain by a | 
steep ascent the Losettes huts ( 1 hr. ) 
Care must now be taken to turn 
sharp W. up the glen just beyond the 
huts. 

[By keeping up the glen which 
opens to the S. the Pic des Trots 
Eveches (3,120 m., 10.237 ft.) may 
be ascended in 3 hrs. by the N.E. 
arete, the glorious view from the 
summit enjoyed, and the descent 
made from the same ridge to the 
Goleon track at the edge of the steep 
descent to be mentioned below. J 

This glen bears gradually N. W. ,and 
a zigzag path up shale slopes brings 
the traveller to the Col (2,880 m., 
9,449 ft.) in 4 hrs. from Valloire. It 
is the lowest point in a ridge of con- 
torted shale and commands a view of 
great magnificence, which may be 
very much extended by following the 
easy arete to the N.W. to the top of 
the Point e de P Argentiere (3,240 m., 
10,630 ft.), in \\ hr. from the Col. 
A steep slope of shale and grass leads 
down to a large marshy plain, the 



numberless streams in which must be 
crossed as soon as possible to the r. 
bank. In this w r ay the edge of a steep 
descent into the lower glen is gained 
( \ hr. ), and a path leads down into that 
glen, which in early summer is one 
mass of narcissi and June lilies. After 
the first hamlet, Pramelier^ is passed 
(1 hr.), La Grave may be reached by 
either side of the glen, the path on 
the r. bank gradually becoming a 
char road long before La Grave is 
attained ( J hr. ) 

3. By the Col des Aiguilles d'Arves 
(6 hrs.), and the Col Lombard (6 hrs.) 
— This route requires two days from 
Yalloire, the intervening night being 
spent in the chalets of Rieublanc, 
where strangers are most hospit- 
ably entertained. It passes through 
very grand scenery, and is strongly 
recommended to all mountaineers 
bound from Yalloire to La Grave, as 
they can climb any of the Aiguilles 
d'Arves on the way. 

The Galibier road is followed for 
f hr. to the hamlet of La Ravi?2e. 
The bridge is not crossed, but the 
path along the 1. bank of the Yal- 
loirette followed till it passes above 
a knoll, seen from afar, and then 
turns up the Combe des Aiguilles on 
the W. This glen is mounted by a 
path above the 1. bank of the torrent, 
care being taken to keep up the more 
southerly of the two arms into which 
the glen is divided by the great spur 
from the Aiguille de PEpaisseur. In this 
way by pastures and stones the head 
of the glen, at the foot of the three 
Aiguilles d'Arves, is attained, 3^ hrs. 
from Yalloire. 

[Hence the Col des Trois Pointes 
(3,150 m., 10,335 ft.) leads in 3 hrs. 
across the ridge just N.W. of the 
Pointe de TArgentiere (3,240 m., 
10,630 ft.) direct to the first plain 
below the Glacier Lombard, while 
from the head of the glen it is also 
possible to climb direct by the Gros 
Jean gl. and gullies in very steep 
rocks to the base of the difficult bit 
on the S. Aiguille d'Arves. J 

Debris slopes and a short easy gl. 



ROUTE B. AIGUILLES D'ARVES 



121 



enable the traveller to gain in I hr. 
more the Col des Aiguilles d'Arves 

(3,200 m., 10,499 ft.), between the 
Central and N. Aiguilles d'Arves : it 
was first crossed in 1864 by Messrs. 
A. W. Moore, H. Walker, and E. 
Whymper, the first foreigners to 
explore this splendid group. (The 
gap between the Central and S. 
Aiguille d'Arves, or Col de Gros Jean, 
has only once been traversed, the 
cliffs on this side of the pass present- 
ing considerable difficulties. ) 

[It is one of the greatest surprises in 
Alpine history to find how long the three 
noble rock pinnacles of the Aiguilles 
d'Arves were ignored by maps, and 
neglected by travellers. It is only in 
the very latest issues of the great 
French map that they are even 
named, though they are spoken of 
in the ' Philosophical Transactions ' 
as far back as 1791. The relative 
height of the two loftiest peaks is 
still uncertain, but the difference be- 
tween them does not exceed 3-6 ft. 
The Central Aiguille was first 
climbed in 1839 by three St. Michel 
hunters, whose ascent remained un- 
known to history till 1878, while the 
Southern Aiguille was only con- 
quered in 1878 by Mr. Coolidge, 
who, with Miss Brevoort, had in 1873 
reached the lower peak of the N. 
Aiguille, and had in 1874 made the 
second ascent of the Central Aiguille. 

From the Col des Aiguilles d'Arves 
there is a fine view to the W. over 
the valley of the Arvan and its 
mountains. But no climber should 
omit to ascend in 2 \ hrs. the Central 
Aiguille (3,511 m., 10,520 ft.) by 
way of its N.E. and S.E. rock faces, 
or at least the higher point of the 
N. Aiguille, 3,330 m., 10,926 ft. 
( 1 hr. ), by the notch between the two 
horns and then by very steep rocks 
on its W. face. J 

The Rieublanc huts are at the W. 
foot of the Col, and are best gained 
thence by a gully to the N. of the 
great central couloir in the steep rock 
wall, and so by stones and grass, in 
\\ hr. They afford better night quar- 



ters than those of La Saussaz, ~ hr. 
lower. ( For the path hence to St. Jean 
d'Arves see Rte. C. 1. ) The first party 
(Mr. Moore's) went next day from 
the La Saussaz huts to La Grave over 
the peak now known as the S. 
Aiguille de la Saussaz (3,315 m., 
10,876 ft.), just above the Col de 
Martignare. A far better route has 
been struck out by later explorers in 
the Col Lombard. This pass is just 
S.W. of the S. Aiguille d'Arves, and 
is gained from La Saussaz in 2\ hrs. by 
bearing S.E. up pastures, a shale 
ridge, and a great snow slope. Its 
height is about 3,100 m. (10,171 ft.) 

[From here starts the best route 
yet discovered up the S. Aiguille 
d'Arves (3,509 m., 11,513 ft.), the 
proudest of the three sisters. It is 
necessary to gain the crest of the 
S.E. arete by one of the small gullies 
close under the S. face of the peak. 
A rock ledge soon leads to the base 
of the very difficult, though short 
(c. 15 ft.), mauvais pas by which the 
rock rampart surrounding the peak 
can be pierced, and so the upper 
slopes gained. It requires some 
good climbing to overcome this 
obstacle, after which the roof-like 
ridge which forms the summit is 
easily reached (1J-2 hrs. from the 
Col Lombard). If the traveller do 
not care to attempt this hard ascent 
he should not fail to cross the Lom- 
bard gl., and scale the steep though 
easy shale or snow slopes or ridges 
(many possible routes) which give 
access to the great cairn on the 
Aiguille du Goleon, 3,429 m. , 
11,251 ft. (i| hr. ) The panorama 
which rewards the slight effort of the 
ascent is one of the finest in 
Dauphine.J 

From the Col Lombard, shale, the 
gl. (near the foot of which is the 
Lyon Republic ain Club hut, 2,400 
m., 7,874 ft.), and a marshy plain 
lead to the Col du Go' eon route, 
joined on the second marshy plain, 
and followed henceforth to La Grave 
(3I-4 hrs. or less from the Col 
Lombard). 



122 DAUPHINE ALPS. § 8. AIGUILLES D'ARVES DISTRICT 



Route C. 

LA GRAVE TO ST. JEAN DE 
MAURIENNE. 

There are at least three main passes 
over the ridge which extends from 
the Aiguilles d'Arves to the Col des 
Pres Nouveaux. They all descend 
into the Arvette glen (or Combe 
Froide), which comes from the W. 
base of the Aiguilles d'Arves, and 
soon turns due N., joining the Arvan 
valley at Entraigues, below St. Jean 
d'Arves. The most easterly of these 
passes, the Col Lombard, was de- 
scribed in the preceding Rte. , for it 
is better adapted for a traveller 
coming from Valloire to La Grave 
by the high level route than as a way 
to St. Jean de Maurienne. The 
two other passes are not quite as long, 
but are both fatiguing and not very 
interesting, though of course they 
command fine views of the Meije, 
just opposite. 

i. By the Col de Martignare 
(11-12 hrs. ) 

From La Grave a very stony 
ascent leads to a grassy depres- 
sion just N.E. of the last hump on 
the long ridge stretching S. from 
the Aiguille du Goleon : the track 
then winds along the mountain slopes 
on the W. side of that ridge in a N. 
direction, keeping high above the 
left bank of the torrent in the Mar- 
tignare glen. It approaches the 
stream before gaining the pass, 
2,600 m., 8,531 ft. (4 hrs.) The 
descent from the shaly ridge leads at 
first into a basin or ravine, whence it 
is necessary to mount in order to gain 
a great grassy promontory on the 
right, from which a zigzag path leads 
down to the Arvette glen, near the 
La Saussaz huts (ij hr. ) Hence 
there is a mule path which mounts to 
the Piettbla?ich.\xts,, and then wanders 
N. W. over pastures till it descends to 
Le Vallonet, a good way lower down 
the Arvette glen. It is shorter, 
though rougher, to go from the La 
Saussaz huts down that glen direct 



by an ill-marked foot path, which 
crosses and recrosses the torrent 
several times. There is at least one 
pretty green basin on the way, while 
the Palere precipice, on the E. side 
of the gorge, is striking. By one or 
other route Entraigues is gained in 
about 2J hrs. from La Saussaz. The 
traveller can now mount to St. Jean 
d'Arves, and then cross the grassy 
Col d'Arves (Rte. D. 1) to St. Jean 
de Mait?'ienne, or may follow the new 
char road direct through the Arvan 
valley to the same place, reached in 
3 or 4 hrs. 

2. By the Col de Plnfernet 
(10J-11 hrs.) 

The ascent begins directly behind 
La Grave, and leads to Les Terrasses, 
whence the path bears N.W. to Le 
Chazelet. The route overlooks the 
stream, which, falling over a granite 
ledge, forms the beautiful waterfall 
of Les Freaux (Rte. A). This 
stream intersects the junction of the 
granite with the overlying strata of 
Jurassic limestone. The mule path 
mounts along the left bank of the 
Buffe torrent, through many groups 
of chalets, but the glen is bare and 
uninteresting. The final ascent is up 
disintegrated slate slopes, with not 
unfrequently large patches of snow. 
The pass (2,690 m., 8,826 ft.) is 
attained in 4J hrs. from La Grave. 
On the other side snow slopes, steep 
shale, and grass bring the traveller to 
the highest huts, those of the Pre des 
Bruns ( 1 hr. ) The mule path starts 
again here, and leads by zigzags 
down into the Arvette glen at the 
point where it turns N. (J hr. ), 
whence that glen is followed to 
Entraigues (ij hr. ) From this ham- 
let one or other of the two alternative 
routes given under 1 is followed to 
St. Jean de Maurienne (3-4 hrs.) 

An active walker can make a 
pleasant variation on this route by 
bearing to the N.W. from the upper 
portion of the Buffe glen and gaining 
the S. ridge of the Pic du Mas de la 
Grave (3,023 m., 9,918 ft.), the 
highest summit between the Aiguille 



ROUTE D. LE FRENEY TO ST. JEAN DE MAURIENNE 123 



du Goleon and the Cinie des 
Torches. It may be attained in 
about if hr. from the Buffe glen 
or the ruined hut near the Col 
(or 5 hrs. from La Grave). There 
is no difficulty in descending E. 
or N., then bearing N.W., and 
gaining the Pres Nouveaux ridge by a 
track which passes that ridge some 
way E. of that Col (Rte. D. 1), the 
usual path over which is joined at 
the highest huts (i§ hr. or so). 



Route D. 

BOURG D'OISANS TO ST. JEAN DE 
MAURIENNE. 

Char road to Besse or Clavaris d'en 
Haut ; thence mule path (or snow) to 
St. Jean d'Arves, whence another 
char road descends to the Arc valley. 
From Le Freney n-n^ hrs. by the 
Col des Pr6s Nouveaux ; 10^ hrs. by 
the Col des Quirlies. 

A direct line drawn from Bourg 
d'Oisans to St. Jean de Maurienne 
would traverse the mass of the 
Grandes Rousses. To avoid this 
formidable obstacle (which can be 
overcome by active climbers : see 
Rte. E) it is necessary to make a 
considerable detour, for the easiest 
route lies on the E. of the Grandes 
Rousses chain. 

The high road to Briancon (Rte. 
A) is followed for 8 m. until a little 
above Le Freney a stone bridge 
crosses the Romanche just beyond 
its junction with the Ferrand. The 
char road ascends steeply by zigzags 
to Mizoen, 1,206 m., 3,957 ft. (Jhr.), 
which commands a fine view of the 
Combe de Malaval. It then gradually 
descends to and crosses the Ferrand, 
which runs in a deep gorge, at the 
end of which (ij— hr. from Le 
Freney), at the foot of a steep bluff, 
it bifurcates. The branch to the 
right goes N.E. to Besse for the Col 



des Pres Nouveaux, the left-hand 
branch due N. to Clavans for the Col 
des Quirlies. 

1. By l he Col des Pres Nouveaux. 
The char road crosses to the left bank 
of the Ferrand, and by several zigzags 
mounts to Besse (20 min.) Hence 
the mule path mounts at first to the 
N. up pastures to a narrow promon- 
tory, along the W. side of which it 
runs high above the Valette torrent, 
which is gradually approached and 
crossed before the last chalet is 
reached. Thence less than -J hr.'s 
ascent by zigzags suffices to gain the 
Col des Pres Nouveaux, 2,293 m., 
7,523 ft. (3J-4 hrs. from Besse), a 
pass quite enclosed by higher moun- 
tains on all sides and commanding 
no distant view. There are some 
huts on the Col itself, and the 
pastures on both sides are of extra- 
ordinary luxuriance, owing, no doubt, 
to the rapid disintegration of the 
rock, a fissile argillaceous rock. The 
descent is at first gentle, but then 
come steep zigzags which wind down 
shale slopes to the highest chalets in 
the Arvan valley (J hr. ) From this 
point it is quite possible to follow the 
pasture valley of the Arvan due N., 
and on reaching St. Sorlin d'Arves to 
turn S.E. to St. Jean d'Arves. But it 
is in every way better to follow from 
the chalets just mentioned a good 
mule path which rises gently over 
grassy slopes to the pretty Col 
d'Ornon (c. 2,000 m., 6,562 ft.), 
leading over the ridge which com- 
pels the Arvan to make this great 
loop. The path descends along the 
left side of a grassy glen to Ckambon, 
where the Arvan is crossed, and a 
further ascent leads to the hamlet of 
La Tour, the principal hamlet (most 
beautifully situated on an upland 
shelf of pastures, with glorious 
views) of the wealthy commune of 
St. Jea7i d'Arves (2 hrs. from the 
highest huts). Another mule path 
leads up in less than J hr. to the low 
Col d'Arves (1,754 m., 5,755 ft.), 
with a fine view of the Grandes 
Rousses and the Aiguilles d'Arves. 



124 DAUPHIN^ ALPS. § 8. AIGUILLES D'ARVES DISTRICT 



It descends on the other side to 
Fontcouverte, whence there is a char 
road down to St. Jean de Maurienne 
(2§ hrs. from the Col d'Arves). In 
1895 a char road was opened from 
St. Jean d'Arves, which descends to 
Entraigues, and then follows the 
lower portion of the Arvan valley to 
St. Jean de Maurienne direct. 

The Col de la Valette, or Col 
Perrant (2,250 m., 7,382 ft.), is a 
mere variation of the route just de- 
scribed. From the last hut on the 
Besse side of the Pres Nouveaux keep 
to the 1. up the Grand Sauvage glen, 
and gain the ridge some way N.W. 
of the Pres Nouveaux, descending by 
the Aigues Rousses huts to the 
highest chalets in the Arvan glen, 
where the Pres Nouveaux route is 
rejoined. The Col de PAgnelin 
(2,875 m -> 9^433 ft.) is a most 
circuitous route, which leaves the 
Pres Nouveaux track on the narrow 
promontory mentioned above, and 
winds in very intricate fashion through 
several ravines till the pass is gained 
just at the S.E. foot of the Ctme des 
Torches, 2,957 m., 9,702 ft. (acces- 
sible in 20 min. ) The descent is 
made by a lateral glen to the Arvette 
ravine at Le Vallonet, where the Col 
de Martignare route (Rte. C. 1) is 
joined and followed to Entraigues. 
This pass is not recommended save to 
those who like devious ways. 

2. By the Col des Quirlies. By 
keeping up the l.-hand road at the 
bifurcation the traveller in a few 
minutes gains the upper portion of 
the Ferrand valley, and passing by 
Clava?is soon after reaches the village 
of Clavans d'exi Haut (1,394 m., 
4,574 ft. )? i~f hr. from the bifurca- 
tion, which has a fair inn, and is the 
best headquarters in these parts. The 
char road continues for a short dis- 
tance further, but comes to an end 
before the traveller arrives at the foot 
of a fine waterfall of the Ferrand. 
Zigzags lead up the slopes on the E. 
side of the fall, and thus the upper- 
most bit of the Ferrand glen is 
attained. The mule path continues to 



the last chalet, whence grassy and 
stony slopes lead in a N.W. direction 
to the considerable Quirlies gl. This 
presents no difficulty, and is mounted 
to the wide opening of the Col des 
Quirlies, 2,950 m. , 9,679 ft. (4 hrs. 
from Clavans d'en Haut. ) 

The pass is nearly on a level with the 
great snow fields of the St. Sorlin gl., 
on which the Col de la Cochette route 
(Rte. E) is soon joined, and followed 
to St. Jean d'Arves (3J hrs. ) The chief 
use of the Col is to afford access from 
Clavans to the usual route up the N. 
Summit of the Grandes Rousses (see 
Rte. E) ; but it may be used simply 
as a pass, and with it may be com- 
bined the ascent ( 1 hr. ) of the Cime du 
Grand Sauvage (3,229 m. , 10,594 ft. ), 
on its E., whence a very striking 
view of the Grandes Rousses is ob- 
tained. A traveller bound from Cla- 
vans for the South Summit of the 
Grandes Rousses should bear to the 
N.W. before the waterfall, and keep 
up the pastures high above the right 
bank of the Ferrand, thus gaining 
the Grand Sablat gl. The icefall of 
this glacier is not, however, practicable 
under all circumstances, and in that 
case it would be best to go to the 
Quirlies gl. (as above), and from its 
S. bit climb up to the Col du Grand 
Sablat, on the S.E. ridge of the de- 
sired peak, between it and the Mont 
Savoyat ; or if preferred it is quite 
possible to gain the Mont Savoyat 
(3,340 m., 10,959 ft.) by its S.E. 
arete, and to simply follow the ridge in 
the same direction to the S. Summit. 



Route E. 

BOURG D r OISANS TO LA CHAMBRE. 
ASCENT OF THE GRANDES ROUSSES. 

Steam tramway to Rochetaill6e ; char 
road to Rivier d'Allemont, or Vau- 
jany ; thence mule path or foot path 
to St. Colomban des Villards, whence 
a char road leads to La Chambre. 



ROUTE E. BOURG D'OISANS TO LA CHAMBRE 125 



nf hrs. by the Olle valley, io§-ii£hrs. 
by Vaujany. 

Although the distance in a direct 
line from Bourg d'Oisans to La 
Chambre is greater than that to St. 
Jean de Maurienne (described in the 
preceding Rte. ) the way is not much 
longer, and certainly less laborious. 
The track crosses the Col du Glandon. 
This pass is most easily reached by 
following the very winding course of 
the Olle torrent, but there are two 
short cuts by the Cols du Sabot and 
du Couard. A guide is scarcely re- 
quired for the way through the Olle 
valley, but it might be difficult for a 
stranger to find the short cuts without 
assistance. 

From Bourg d'Oisans the new 
steam tramway (Rte. A) should be 
taken for 20 min. (4J m. ) as far as the 
Rochetaillee- Allemont station, at Les 
Sables, close to the confluence of the 
Romanche and the Olle. Thence a 
char road crosses first the Romanche 
by the Pont des Sables, soon the Olle 
by the Pont de Pei-niere, and then 
runs along the r. bank of the Olle 
to the large village of Allemont, 
800 m., 2,625 ft. (1 hr. ) This over- 
looks the hamlet of La Fonderie, and 
is itself overlooked by the ruined 
castle of Rochechinard, which com- 
mands a magnificent view of the 
glaciers of the Grandes Rousses and 
the other neighbouring mountains. 
( For the ascent of Belledonne from the 
Club hut, 3 hrs. distant, see Rte. I ; 
for the way to the Fare Club hut, 
4 hrs. distant, see below ; and for 
the excursion to the Sept Laux, 
Rte. G. ) The ranges enclosing the 
valley above Allemont are extra- 
ordinarily rich in metallic ores, which, 
elsewhere, are rarely or never found 
together. Neither the iron works nor 
the silver mines are now, however, 
worked, whether from the inherent 
difficulties of the undertaking or from 
want of capital and skill in the 
management. 

[The silver mines of Chalanches^ 
discovered in 1767, are situated on the 



I mountain slopes W. of and 1,200 m. 
I ( 3j937 it* ) above the village. They 
j may be reached in 2 \ hrs. , and can- 
i not fail to interest the mineralogist, 
j On this single mountain gold, silver, 
j mercury, nickel, cobalt, copper, zinc, 
1 iron, manganese, and antimony have 
1 been found variously combined, be- 
i sides beds of anthracite. 3 

From Allemont the char road con- 
j tinues up the Olle valley, soon crossing 
to the 1. bank, and recrossing to the r. 
bank, after traversing the Flumet, 
j coming down from Vaujany. The 
i valley runs due N. for 2 hrs. to 
the hamlet of Rivier d? Allemont 
(1,280 m. , 4,200 ft.), which stands 
i several hundred feet above the stream. 

The scenery is rich and pleasing, with 
! some fine views of the surrounding 
mountains. Above Rivier (here the 
track to the Sept Laux turns off — 
Rte. G) the Combe d ; OHe bends to 
the E., and the scenery becomes 
I wilder. The mule path descends to 
the level of the Olle, and, passing 
close to the fine waterfall, enters the 
very narrow and picturesque gorge of 
I Maupas. At the further end, the 
Grande Jlfazson, a large chalet, used 
! by the Provencal shepherds, is 
reached (2^ hrs.) This is in a small 
pasture basin, and opposite the junc- 
tion of the Olle with the Cochette 
torrent, which descends N.W. from 
the Grandes Rousses. (Here fall in 
the tracks over the Cols du Sabot and 
du Couard : see below. ) The main 
valley here turns N. E. , and becomes 
I much broader, and one long series of 
I pasturages. Many tributary torrents 
are passed. (The first on the r. bank 
is the Lamie, and leads up to the 
Col de PAgnelin, by which the inn at 
\ the Sept Laux may T be reached in 
j 4 hrs. from the Grande Maison.) 
, Some way beyond the path passes 
I below the Quatre Maisons or Riou 
• Claret chalets (hence the Rocher 
j Blanc or the Rocheis de PArgentiere 
I can be ascended : see Rtes. Gand H). 
j if hr. above the Grande Maison the 
path gains the last huts (Plan du 
I Semi) in the Olle valley, close to the 



126 DAUPHIXE ALPS. § 8. AIGUILLES D'ARVES DISTRICT 



junction of the two torrents which 
make up the Olle. One of these 
descends from a wild glen, the Combe 
de Bramaut, containing a succession 
of small lakes, of which the highest 
lies at the N. end of the chain of the 
Grandes Rousses : through it. or the 
ravine of the Rif Blanc, rather further 
W.j the great gl. of St. Soriin can be 
attained from the Olle valley in about 
5 hrs. The other arm of the Olle 
valley leads in 20 min. nearly due 
E. to the Col de la Croix de Fer 
(2,062 m. , 6.765 ft.), whence it is 
if hr. to St. Jean d'Arves, on the 
route from Bourg d'Oisans to St. 
Jean de Maurienne, described in the 
preceding Rte. (This course might be 
taken to St. Jean de Maurienne, but 
it is much more circuitous than that 
by the Col des Pres Nouveaux, save 
for travellers coming from Allevard 
or the Sept Laux. ) 

The path to La Chambre quits 
that of the Croix de Fer about 5 
min. beyond the last chalets, and 
turning to the N.E, mounts in 
\ hr. to the huts of Plan du Col, 
on the Col du Grlandon (1,951 m., 
6,401 ft.), which is at the head of 
a lateral glen, the Combe du Glaudon, 
or des Vi 'Hards, descending in a 
nearly straight line to the valley 
of the Arc. By the route we have 
just described the Col is about 2 hrs. 
from the Grande Maison, or 7| hrs. 
from Bourg d'Oisans. There is a 
pretty view from the Col, looking 
down this glen towards the moun- 
tains above Moutiers, in the Taren- 
taise. The descent by zigzags is at 
first rather rapid, and then becomes 
more gentle, following first one, then 
the other, bank of the torrent, and 
passing many chalets in rich pastures. 
On the 1. several glens lead to the 
passes to Allevard described in Rte. H. 
About ih hr. from the Col the large 
village at St. Colomban des Vil lards is 
reached, whence a char road leads in 
7 m. to La Chambre. J hr. below 
St. Colomban is the first of the scat- 
tered hamlets that make up the com- 
mune of St. Alban des Villards. The 



j valley of the Arc is gained about 1 m. 

j above La Chambre (§ 7. Rte. A), 
which is thus about 4 hrs. from the 
Col, or 1 if- hrs. from Bourg d'Oisans. 

A glance at the map will show 
that the valley of the Olle between 
Allemont and the Col du Glan- 
don describes a wide curve, and 
thereby involves a long detour. 
Hence there are several short cuts, 

\ which pass by the village of Vaujany. 

\ Vaujany may be reached from Alle- 

. mont in 1 J hr. either direct by a char 

' road (5 m.) which quits that up 
the Olle valley after it has crossed 
the Flumet, or by another on the 1. 
bank of the Flumet past Oz, a 
hamlet surmounted by the remains 
of an ancient stronghold. Vaujany 

■ (1,253 m -j 4; 111 ft-) lies in the 

! Flumet glen, and 25 min. higher is 
La Villette, at the junction of the 
two streams which join to form the 
Flumet. By keeping up the N. 
branch the Col du Sabot (2,100 m., 
6.890 ft. ) is gained in 1 hr. , and the 
Grande Maison in 40 min. more. If 

I the N.E. branch be followed, the 
Col du Couard (2,130 m., 6.9S9 ft.) 
is attained in less than if hr.. and 
then by the Cochette ravine the 
Grande Maison in a long hour more. 
Thus by the Sabot the distance from 
Allemont to the Grande Maison is 
3 1 hrs. , and by the Couard 45--4J hrs. , 
while the round through the Olle 
valley takes 4} hrs. 

Ascent of the Grandes Rousses. 
Between the valley of the Olle and 
those of the Ferrand and Arvan (see 
Rte. D) rises the considerable snow- 
clad mass of the Grandes Rousses, 
which extends about 6 m. from 
S.S.W. to N.N.E. It forms a long 
ridge crowned by several peaks, the 
two highest being in the centre, and 

i said to be both of exactly equal 
height (3,473 m., 11,395 ft-) On 
the W. side numerous short and 
steep glaciers are drained by torrents 
which, after forming two series of 
small lakes on two successive rocky 
terraces (called Petites — the higher — 
and Balmes Pousses espectively 



ROUTE E. ASCENT OF THE GRANDES ROUSSES 127 



flow into the Olle through steep 
ravines. On this side the best 
starting point is the Fare Club hut. 
On the E. side the glaciers are larger 
and less inclined, those of St. Sorlin 
and Sarennes at the N. and S. ends 
being very extensive snowfields. 
The St. Sorlin glacier feeds the main 
branch of the Arvan ; those of 
Quirlies and Grand Sablat pour their 
streams into the Ferrand (which 
unites with the Romanche at Le 
Freney), while that of Sarennes 
sends forth a torrent which soon 
bends sharply to the W. , and joins 
the Romanche opposite Bourg 
d'Oisans. Clavans d'en Haut, in the 
Ferrand glen, and the Aigues Rousses 
huts, at the head of that of the Arvan, 
are the best starting points on the E. 
side of the range (see Rte. D). 
Three principal passes traverse this 
chain — the Col de la Pyra?7iide (to 
the S. of the S. Summit) to the 
Sarennes gl., the Breche des j 
Grandes Rousses (between the S. and 
N. Summits) to the Quirlies glacier, 
and the Col de la Cochette (N. of the j 
N. Summit) to the St. Sorlin gl. 
On the E. side the lateral passes of 
the Col du Gra?id Sablat and the Col 
des Quirlies cross the ridges thrown j 
out by the main chain. 

The N. Summit (locally called j 
V Etendard) was first climbed in 
1863 by Prof. Bonney and Messrs. ; 
W. and G. S. Mathews, who started 
from the highest hut in the Cochette 
glen and ascended by the rocky N. 
face. It is now usual to start from 
the Fare Club Hut (belonging to 
the S.T.D.), 2,216 m., 7,321 ft., 
w T hich lies rather above the lower 
lake terrace, and may be gained 
from Allemont in 4 hrs. by way of 
Oz and the Carrelet lake. Thence 
the upper lake terrace is reached, 
and a N.E. direction kept till the 
Col de la Cochette (c. 3,100 m. , 
10,171 ft.), on the E., can be attained 
by the Rousses gl. and a steep 
rocky wall (3 hrs.) Hence the 
N. arete or the N.E. snow slope is 
climbed to the summit (40 min. ), 



which may also be gained in 2 hrs. 
from the Rousses gl. by mount- 
ing the rocky N.W. spur. The 
panorama which is thence obtained is 
extremely extensive, and the excur- 
sion is most highly to be recom- 
mended. It is, of course, easy to 
descend from the Col across the 
St. Sorlin gl. in a slightly N.E. 
direction to the Aigues Rousses huts 
(2 hrs. or less), whence a path goes 
down to the head of the Arvan glen, 
and reascends the opposite slope to 
the grassy Col d'Ornon (c. 2,000 m. , 
6,562 ft. — see Rte. D. 1) ; a second 
descent to the Arvan (which makes 
a huge loop), followed by a second 
ascent, brings the traveller to St. 
Jean d'Arves in 2J hrs. from Aigues 
Rousses. 

The S. Summit (sometimes called 
Pic Bayle) was first attained in 1874 
by M. Bayle, the cure of Oz. From 
the Club hut it is best reached by 
way either of the Col de la Pyramide 
(c. 3,380 m., 11,090 ft.) or of the 
Breche des Grandes Rousses. The 
former Col (whence Bourg d'Oisans 
may be reached by the Grand Sablat 
and Sarennes gls. ) is easily gained 
in 2.\ hrs. from the Club hut by snow 
slopes, and the peak by the easy 
snow slopes of the Grand Sablat 
gl. in \ hr. more. The Breche 
des Grandes Rotisses (c. 3,100 m., 
10,171 ft.) can be gained without 
difficulty in about 3 hrs. from the 
Club hut (the descent to the Quirlies 
gl. is not easy, owing to a short but 
very steep icefall), whence the N. 
arete, rocky at first, then snowy, 
leads to the summit in 1 J hr. more. 

A very fine expedition, recom- 
mended to active mountaineers, is to 
ascend the S. Summit from the Club 
hut by the Col de la Pyramide, as 
described above, then to go down by 
the ridge to the Breche des Grandes 
Rousses, and to remount by the 
difficult rocky S. arete of the peak 
in 3 hrs. to the N. Summit, and 
reach St. Jean d'Arves by the Col de 
la Cochette route. If it is desired 
to avoid the hard S. arete of the N. 



I2S DAUPH1NE ALPS. § 8. AIGUILLES D'ARVES DISTRICT 



Summit (hitherto climbed but once, by I 
Mr. Coolidge, in 1887) it is easy to 
descend from the Col du Grand i 
Sablat (just S.E. of the S. Summit) 
to the Quirlies gl., to traverse both 
branches of it in a X. direction, and 
then the Col des Quirlies to the St. 
Sorlin gl., whence the N. Summit 
can be attained by the usual route, 
and St. Jean d'Arves reached by the 
Col de la Cochette route. This last 
traverse is specially convenient when 
the start is made from a point on the 
E. side. 



Route F. 

GRENOBLE OR CHAMBERY TO 
ALLEVARD. EXCURSIONS AND 
PASSES FROM ALLEVARD. 

Allevard is most easily reached 
from the Pontcharra station (§ 10. 
Rte. B), on the railway between 
Grenoble (26 m. distant) and Cham- 
bery (13 m. off). Thence a new 
steam tramway runs up to Allevard 
(9 m.) This line mounts along the 
right bank of the Breda through very 
beautiful park-like scenery and com- 
mands pleasing views of the sur- 
rounding mountains. Xear the \ 
village of Dctrier (5 m.) the valley 
turns sharply to the S., and the line, 
always keeping to the right bank of 
the Breda, mounts gradually above 
the stream which flows in a deep 
gorge below. The snowy mass of 
the Gleyzin appears to close the head 
of the valley. There is also a 
carriage road from Pontcharra ^in ; 
8 m. ) along the left bank of the 
Breda, and another (see below, a), 
very picturesque, from the Goncelin • 
station, 7 m. nearer Grenoble than 
Pontcharra. 

The sulphur waters of Allevard 
have only of comparatively recent 
years attracted notice, but are now 
annually frequented by many hun- 



dreds of visitors. In composition and 
qualities they are said to resemble those 
of Eaux Bonnes, in the Pyrenees. 
Allevard, no doubt, owes much of 
its attraction to the beauty of its 
scenery and the mildness of its 
climate, which is unusually free from 
fog. The village stands on both 
banks of the Breda, at a height of 
475 m. (1,558 ft.) The Etablissement 
Thermal has very lately been rebuilt, 
and much improved. The Chateau 
is not remarkable, but the grounds 
are prettily laid out, and much 
resorted to by visitors. 

Many excursions can be made in 
the environs of Allevard, for details 
of which consult Joanne's i Alpes 
Dauphinoises,' vol. i. (1890), Rte. 26, 
or the Guide Book published in 1895 
by the local Syndicat dTnitiative. 
That most frequently made is to the 
rocky cirque called the Bout du 
Monde (J hr. ), passing the great iron 
foundry on the way. 20 min. from 
the Baths is a curious ruin (now 
restored inside) commanding a fine 
view : it is called the Tourdu Treuil, 
and dates from the ninth or tenth 
century. A charming excursion 
(2 firs, by carriage road) is past 
Arvillard (5 m.) and through the 
Bens glen to the picturesquely 
situated ruins of the Chartreuse de 
St. Hugou (827 m.j 2,713 ft.), 
founded c. 1175 by St. Hugh of 
Grenoble. The route passes by the 
remarkable Pont du Diable, whence 
a pedestrian may vary the return by 
regaining the high road at Pont de 
Bens by way of Montgaren* 

The ascent of the Brame Farine 
(1,231 m.j 4,039 ft.), a point N.W. 
of the village, in the ridge between 
the valley of the Breda and that of 
the Isere, may be made in \\ hr. 
by a mule path, which passes by the 
hamlet of Crozet. The ridge is 
thickly wooded, so that it is only 
from two or three points that an un- 
interrupted view — extending to the 
glaciers of the Tarentaise — can be 
obtained. (To the S. the Cinq 
Pointes, accessible from the Col de 



ROUTE F. GRENOBLE OR CHAMBERY TO ALLEVARD 129 



Bariot — see a. below — command 
an even finer view. ) In descending 
from the Brame Farine chalet 
(20 min. below the top) visitors often 
avail themselves of the sledges which 
are used for the conveyance of wood, 
reaching the Baths in 15 min. This 
descent d la ramasse has been vividly 
described by M. Alphonse Daudet in 
4 Numa Roumestan.' S. of the 
Baths the Trillat (1,359 m. , 4,459 ft. ), 
on which are the extensive iron mines 
that play an important part in the 
history of Allevard, is often ascended 
(1 J hr.) for the sake of the view. 

More energetic persons will prefer 
to ascend the Petit Charnier ^ 
2,124 m -> 6,969 ft. (4I-5 hrs. ), or 
the Grand Charnier, 2,564 m., 
8,412 ft. (6 hrs.), to the E. of the | 
Baths (see Rte. H. 1). The way lies 
through the Veyton glen to the Col 
de Claraii (horses go as far as the 
Col), to the N.W. of the Petit 
Charnier ; the Col can also be 
reached by the Grand Collet ridge 
on the N.W. From the Col the 
Petit Charnier is reached in § hr. ; 
the Grand Charnier is 1 \ hr. further 
on, and can also be attained from the 
Col de Bourbiere (between the Bens 
and Veyton glens), on the S.E. 

The great excursion from the 
Baths is that to the Sept Laux, de- 
scribed in the next Rte. The best 
headquarters for climbers in that 
group is at Le Curtillard. 

The principal passes from Allevard 
to the Romanche and Arc valleys are 
described in Rtes. G and H respec- 
tively. Many other easier passes lead 
in various directions (especially to the 
valley of the Arc, on the E. ), and may 
be briefly noticed here. 

(a) To Grenoble. — A much-fre- 
quented carriage road passes by St. 
Piei-re d^ Allevard (2 m. ), where a 
ruined tower is the only remaining 
vestige of a Cluniac monastery, dating 
from the eleventh century. 2 m. 
further is the village of Mo?'etel, near 
which are seen the remains of two 
ruined castles. In traversing by a com- 
paratively low pass the ridge which 
I. 



separates the Breda from the Isere 
the road commands a fine view of 
the range of the Grande Chartreuse, 
opposite. About 7 m. from the 
Baths is Goncelin, a railway station 
19 m. from Grenoble. Another 
carriage road (very picturesque) leaves 
the last-named route at Saille (3 m. 
from the Baths), crosses the Col de 
Bariot 1,053 m., 3,455 ft. (hence 
the Cinq Pointes may be ascended), 
and descends by Theys to Tencin 
station, 16 m. from Grenoble. 

(b) To Chamousset. — A char road 
leads in about 5 m. to Arvillard, and 
thence in 2 m. to La Rochette (2 m. 
by tramway from Detrier), in the 
valley of the Gelon. Following one 
or other bank of that stream, it 
reaches Chamousset station (§7. 
Rte. A), in the valley of the Arc, in 
about 20-22 m. from the Baths. 

(c) To Aiguebelle. — The Gelon 
torrent makes so sharp an angle at 
La Rochette that by turning slightly 
to the right at that village from the 
road just described it is possible to 
ascend the upper Gelon valley by 
a carriage road, and at its head reach 
by mule path a low pass, the Col de 
Mont Gilbert (1,271 m., 4,170 ft.), 
by which Aiguebelle is attained in 
5f hrs. from the Baths. 

(d) To Epierre. — Three paths lead 
hither, but, though the distance in a 
direct line is less than to Chamousset 
or Aiguebelle, from 6 to 7 hrs. are 
required. The easiest, but most 
circuitous, way is by La Rochette. 
The road mounts hence by the left 
bank of the Gelon, passing the ham- 
lets of Presle and Le Ve7'7ieil (2-| m. ), 
whence a mule path turns to the S.E. 
through a lateral valley leading to 
the Col d "* Arbaretan or Herbai'ieta7i 
(1,847 m., 6,060 ft.), and then 
descends to St. Pierre de Belleville 
(5 hrs.), on the 1. bank of the Arc, 
about ii| m. below Epierre. Another 
path mounts from Presle by the glen 
of the Jondron to the Col de la Perdu 
(e. 2,000 m., 6,562 ft.), 2f hrs. 
from Presle. From the Col the 
easiest way is to descend the Ar- 

K 



130 DAUPHIN^ ALPS. §8. AIGUILLES D'ARVES DISTRICT 



baretan ravine to the N.E., which 
leads to St. Pierre de Belleville 
(ij hr. ) Another, and rather 
shorter, way is to pass a second Col, 
lying to the E. of the Col de la 
Perche, which leads direct to St. 
Leger, a short distance above Epierre 
on the opposite or 1. bank of the 
Arc. 

(e) To St. Remy. — The most 
direct course from Allevard to the 
upper valley of the Arc is by the 
Col de la Fraiche (2,181 m., 
7,156 ft.), which leads by a path in 
6 hrs. to St. Remy, about half-way 
between Epierre and La Chambre. 
From Arvillard the road follows the 
r. bank of the Bens torrent for 
about 1 hr. to the Chartreuse de St. 
Hugon(2 hrs. from the Baths), men- 
tioned above. Keeping to the N. 
side of the valley, often called the 
Combe de St. Hugon, the foot path 
reaches the hamlet of Plan in J hr. 
further, and then, ascending by 
zigzags the mountain slope to the 
1. , attains the Col in 2J-3 hrs. from 
the Chartreuse. From the summit 
St. Remy is reached in if hr. of 
rapid descent. By a slight detour of 
less than J hr. , through wilder and 
more striking scenery, the traveller 
may reach another pass, the Col 
oVArpingon (2,225 m -> 7, 300 ft.), 
lying a short distance further S. than 
the Col de la Fraiche. The paths 
unite again a short distance- above St. 
Remy. 



Route G. 

ALLEVARD TO BOURG D'OISANS. 
THE SEPT LAUX. 

7-8 hrs. to the inn at the Sept Laux 
by char road to Fond de France, 
and mule path thence ; 6-7 hrs. to 
Bourg d'Oisans by foot path to Rivier 
dAllemont, char road thence to La 
RochetaillCe station, and so by steam 
tramway to Bourg d'Oisans. 

This is an interesting excursion, 
but the distance is too great for a 



day's walk (unless under exceptional 
circumstances), and it is better to 
sleep at Le Curtillard, or at the inn 
at the Sept Laux. The Col du 
Merdaret and the Col de la Coche 
enable a traveller to go direct from 
the Sept Laux to Grenoble, but it is 
probably more convenient now to 
descend to the new steam tram line 
at La Rochetaillee. 

The char road from Allevard to the 
upper valley of the Breda follows the 
r. bank of that stream, the Gleyzin 
and its glaciers forming a fine feature 
in the view in front. It is 4 m. to 
Pinsot, at the junction of the Breda 
with the Gleyzin torrent. (For the 
pass to La Chambre see next Rte. , 
as well as for the ascent of the Pic du 
Gleyzin (2,789 m., 9,151 ft.) The 
ascent continues, not steep, along the 
same bank of the Breda to La Fer- 
riere (3 m. ), and a short distance be- 
yond, after passing Grand Thiervoz, is 
Le Curtillard (9 m., or 2 hrs.' drive 
from Allevard), with the good little 
H. de Bains, the best starting point 
for excursions in this valley. (For the 
Col de Valloire to La Chambre, see 
next Rte. ) The road here passes to 
the 1. bank of the Breda, and in \ hr. 
more comes to an end at the hamlet 
of Fond de France (see next Rte. for 
the Col de la Croix to La Chambre), 
which is at the mouth of the Combe 
de Madame, and at the foot of the 
steep ascent towards the Sept Laux. 
The basin of the Fond de France is 
formed by the union of three lateral 
valleys — those of Madame > Pleyney, 
and Breda. At its upper end is the 
fine waterfall of Pissou, which is 
seen from afar, and may be visited 
by a detour of a few minutes. Near 
it the path mounts steeply up a slope 
where beeches are still seen among 
the birches and pines to a wooded 
plateau, whence a second and steeper 
ascent brings the traveller (i-| hr. 
from Fond de France) to the Gleyzin 
de la Ferriere chalet (1,610 m., 
5,282 ft.) 

[This is the best point from 
which to gain, in 2 hrs., by a path 



ROUTE G. ALLEVARD TO BOURG D'OISANS 131 



winding round the mountain slopes 
to the S. , and then making a great 
loop towards the N., the Col du 
Merdaret (1,823 m., 5,981 ft.), 
which commands an admirable view 
of the peaks of the Allevard group. 
It may also be gained by a good path 
from La Ferriere. A path leads down 
in a N.W. direction to Theys (2 hrs.), 
a village which is said to have the 
finest position in the Graisivaudan 
valley. It is 4 m. hence by a char 
road to Tencin station (§10. Rte. B), 
16 m. from Grenoble. This is one of 
the most frequented routes from Gre- 
noble to the valley of the Breda, and 
the most agreeable, though of course 
not the shortest, from Allevard or the 
Sept Laux to that city. ] 

The Gleyzin chalet stands on a shelf, 
and a third ascent, by many zigzags, is 
required (a pretty waterfall of the Breda 
is passed on the way) to gain the Lac 
Noir, the first of the Sept Laux. The 
way henceforward is nearly level, and 
passes between the Lac de la Motte 
and the Lac de Cotepen (leaving the 
Lac Blanc above on the 1. ) before 
skirting along the W. shore of the 
Lac du Col (pronounced Cos), above 
which stands (4 hrs. from Fond de 
France) the convenient little mountain 
inn (2,185 m -> 7 ft-) built here 
in 1 88 1 by the indefatigable ' Societe 
des Touristes du Dauphine,' which 
has done so much to attract travellers 
to the Dauphine Alps. There is a 
boat on the lake. The scenery has 
more of wildness than sublimity, but 
it affords an agreeable change for 
water drinkers from Allevard or 
Uriage, and even for those who do 
not limit themselves to snow-clad 
mountains. 

[Several of the neighbouring points 
can be ascended. That usually visited 
is the Kocner Blanc, or Pic de la 
Pyramid 8 (2,931 m., 9,617 ft.), 
which is the highest, and so com- 
mands the finest view, while the 
traveller may descend from it on 
several different sides. The ascent is 
made by passing round the N. end of 
the Lac du Col, then going up stony 



slopes to a small gl. , and mounting 
by this or its 1. bank to the gap called 
Col de la Pyr amide, or d A my ant he, 
just S. of the peak (2-2J hrs.) Hence 
the summit is \ hr, distant by rounding 
a little on the E. side, and then follow- 
ing the ridge. The view is very fine, 
including the Mont Blanc chain, the 
Grand Combin, and many of the 
Zermatt peaks, besides all the great 
summits of the Tarentaise and the 
Dauphine, not to mention the nearer 
points, the Lac du Bourget, and a 
bit of the Graisivaudan valley, From 
the Rocher Blanc it is easy to descend 
to the N.E. by a small gl. into the 
Combe de Madame, and so reach the 
Pissou waterfall in about 3 hrs. from 
the summit. From the gap to the S. 
of the peak the traveller can go down 
a small gl., or the rocks on its r. 
bank, to the Riou Claret glen, 
through which a path along the 1, side 
leads down to the Quatre Maisons 
chalets, in the upper Combe d'Olle 
(if-2hrs.), on the Col du Glandon 
track (Rte. E), which may be fol- 
lowed either to La Chambre or to 
Bourg d'Oisans. (By crossing the Col 
de la Croix de Fer (Rte. E), at the 
very head of the Olle valley, St. Jean 
d'Arves (Rte. D) may be gained in 
3-3 \ hrs. from Quatre Maisons.] 

The Lac du Col is the highest of a 
group of lakes lying amidst the cluster 
of peaks that separate the Combe 
d'Olle from the sources of the Breda. 
The largest, which lie near the path, 
are seven in number, three being 
beyond the Col des Sept Laux, and 
so having a S. outfall. There are 
several small lakes at hand, so that 
the total number is eleven. 

From the inn an ascent of 5 min. 
leads to the Col des Sept Laux 
(2,184m., 7,166 ft.), and then the 
track runs S. over a dreary rock 
plateau, with two lakes, to the Col de 
I'Homme (1 hr.), whence a very fine 
view is gained of the lower bit of the 
Olle valley, just at the spectator's 
feet, with the Grandes Rousses and 
other snowy peaks as a background, 

[A faintly marked path winds hence 

K 2 



132 DAUPHINE ALPS. § 8. AIGUILLES D'ARVES DISTRICT 



round the mountain buttresses in a 
S.W. direction to gain the Col de la 
Cocke (1,979 ni., 6,493 2 ~3 nrs - 
from the inn. Hence the foot path 
descends to Prabert in 2\ hrs., 
whence a char road leads in i~ hr. 
by Laval to Brignoud station, 12 m. 
from Grenoble. If bound for Grenoble 
it is more direct from the inn not to 
cross the Col de F Homme, however, 
but the Col de la Vache, rather 
further to the W. over the same 
ridge, whence too there is an easy 
descent to Rivier.jJ 

The descent to Rivier d'Allemont 
is long and steep. A faint track 
leads down a narrow rock gorge, 
bearing the alarming (but totally 
unjustified) name of ' Cheminee du 
Diddle.* (It is easy to avoid it, by 
keeping by the stream all the way, or 
to cross it, when some way down, 
to its r. bank, and then bear S.W. 
past the Chomes huts. ) In either 
way the hamlet of Rivier d* Allemont 
is attained (if -2 hrs. from the Col de 
l'Homme), and thenceforward the Col 
du Glandon route (Rte. E) is followed 
to the Rochetaillee station, m. from 
Bourg d'Oisans, or 26 m. from Gre- 
noble 



Route H. 

ALLEVARD TO LA CHAMBRE. 

A glance at the map suffices to 
show that the line of peaks extending 
from the Rocher Blanc to the Pic du 
Frene divides two glens which are 
roughly parallel to each other. That 
on the W. side is the upper valley of 
the Breda, described in the preceding 
Rte., while that on the E. (running 
from N.E. to S.W. rather than due 
N. and S.. like the Breda glen) is 
the Combe des Villards, opening out 
into the Arc valley at La Chambre. 
There are thus many passes leading 
over this ridge, through the glens 
on either side ; while (as was pointed 



I out in the last Rte. ) one way down 
the Rocher Blanc leads to the Col du. 
Glandon route (which goes over to 
the Villards glen), and another to the 
Allevard side of the Col de la Croix, 
so that it is possible to take that 
summit on the way to La Chambre. 
The passes proper are described in 
order from N. to S. 

1. Col du Mer let.— Leaving Alle- 
; vard by the char road leading above 
the iron works in the direction of the 
I Fond de France and Sept Laux (see 
I Rte. G), the hamlet of Panissieres 
I is traversed, and the road left where 
I it crosses the Veyton torrent by a bridge, 
j The mule track now turns S.E. and 
! follows the Veyton glen, sometimes 
j close to the stream, sometimes at a 
j height above it, till in 2J- hrs. it 
' reaches the Chev?-ette saw mill. 

[Hence the Petit Charnier (2,124 
1 m., 6,969 ft. ) is easily ascended in 2\ 
hrs. by the Col de Claran on its N.W. 
The Grand Charnier (2,564 m., 
8,412 ft.) is if hr. further off, but is 
better climbed from the S.E. by way 
of the Col de Bourbiere (see below). 
The latter peak commands an ex- 
tensive view, but is overlooked by its 
neighbour, the Pic du Frene. 3 

The path to the Col, soon after 
passing Chevrette, reaches the base 
of a long and steep slope, called 
Tireqnoy. It now becomes a mere 
foot path, and ascends this slope by 
numerous zigzags. This leads to a 
rocky hollow, followed, after another 
ascent, by a second, and this again 
by a third, still wilder and more 
j desolate. 

[At the last chalet a path bears to 
the N.E. over the Col de Bourbiere 
to the head of the Bens glen, 
whence there is a rough pass, the 
Col du Frene or de la Pierre, by 
which St. Remy, a little below La 
Chambre, may be gained in 7 or 
8 hrs. from the Baths. Near the 
head of the Veyton glen a ravine to 
the N.E., that of Frene, affords the 
best route to the summit of the Pic 
du Frene, or Grand Clocher dti Frene 
I (2,808 m., 9,213 ft.), the highest 



ROUTE H. ALLEVARD TO LA CHAMBRE 



133 



point in these parts : it is gained 
in 3 hrs. from the head of the Veyton 
glen by way of the Jerusalevi chalet. 3 
From the head of the glen the 
Merlet path turns due E., and soon 
disappears amid the loose rocks, 
intermixed with patches of snow, 
that lead up to the Col du Merlet, 
2,294 m., 7,527 ft.. (5 hrs. from 
Allevard), with the Pic die Merlet 
{2,566 m., 8,419 ft.) on the N. The 
descent lies at first down a huge pile 
of debris, below which is the highest 
chalet on the E. side. Keeping to. 
the N. side of the torrent, two 
hollows, forming successive steps in 
the descent, are passed,, and then the 
torrent is crossed to and fro three 
times, till, after passing the Velle-- 
chaud chalet, the traveller finds him- 
self on the verge of a precipitous 
slope, down which the stream 
plunges in a succession of rapids and 
waterfalls. The track keeps to the 
r. , and winds down the mountain- 
side till, in the valley below, it falls 
into a rough char road. This leads 
to Le Molard, the chief hamlet of 
St. Alban des Villards, 1^- hr. 
(There is a shorter way by. following 
the bank of the torrent itself.) 
The char road thence descends the 
Glandon or Villards valley to La 
Chambre (i§ hr. ), reached in 8 hrs. 
from Allevard. 

2. Col du Grand Glacier. — Thetrack 
to this pass starts from 
from Allevard on the road leading up 
towards the Sept Laux (Rte. G),.and 
ascends the Gleyzin glen,. After 
passing several chalets, those of 
Combe Grasse are reached (3 hrs.), 
where the mule path comes to an 
end. 

[Hence the Pic du Gleyzin 
(2,789 m., 9,151 ft.) can be best 
climbed in 4^ hrs. from the gap to its 
S., though the ascent is usually made 
by the Veyton glen by the N. face. J 

A long ascent leads to the Gleyzin 
gk, over which (or by its N. side) 
the pass (2,740 m., 8,990 ft.) is 
gained (3 hrs.) It lies to the S. of 
the Fointe du Grand Glacier 



(2,827 m., 9,275 ft.), which is pro- 
bably accessible from this point. 

[Hence the Puy Gris (2,992 m. , 
9,816 ft.), the highest summit in the 
ranges round Allevard, can be climbed 
by gaining the Col of the same name 
to its W. , and then clambering over a 
ridge of rotten rocks, or by going from 
the Col down to the Cleraus gk, and 
thence by a gully attaining the W. 
ridge higher than the great tow T er 
which forms the chief obstacle. 
About I J hr. suffices from the Col du 
Grand Glacier. 3 

The descent is made by the Puy Gris 
gl. and the deep-cut, Arbe glen to St. 
Colomban des Villards (2 hrs.), some 
way above. .St. Alban des Villards, and 
about 7 m. by road from La Chambre. 

3. Ccl de Valloire.— The starting 
point , for this pass is Le Curtillard 
(9 m., or 2 hrs.' drive from Allevard). 
The way lies to the S.E. through the 
Grande Valloire ravine. To avoid 
the narrow gorge through which the 
torrent rushes to join the Breda, the 
path mounts along the slopes above 
its r. bank, then crosses to the 
opposite side, and makes a detour to 
reach the farther side of a lateral 
ravine. In less than 1 hr. the path 
returns to the r. bank at the 
Upper Valloire chalets, and mounts 
easily to the end of the glen, which 
is occupied by three small lakes. 
(Hence the Col de Comberousse 
enables a traveller to reach the ridge 
W. of Puy Gris, and so to take this 
peak on the way from Le Curtillard 
to Pinsot and Allevard.) A steeper 
ascent, finally over a small gk, 
leads to the Col de Valloire 
(c. 2,720 m., 8,924 ft.), just N. of 
the Rocker (PArguille (2,887 m -> 
9,472 ft.), 2 hrs. 20 min. (leisurely 
walkers take 3 hrs. ) from Grand 
Thiervoz, near Le Curtillard. On 
the E. side the track keeps to the 
1. bank of the torrent, and, passing 
through the Tepey glen, in 2 hrs. 
reaches St. Colomban des Villards, 
whence it is 7 m. by road to La 
Chambre. In all the distance from 
Grand Thiervoz to La Chambre has 



134 DAUPHINE ALPS. § S. AIGUILLES D'ARVES DISTRICT 



been done in 6 hrs. 35 min., but 
ordinary travellers will probably take 
longer. Joanne allows nearly 12 hrs. 
for the pass. 

4. Col de ia Croix. — Close to the 
waterfall of Pissou (Rte. G), above 
Le Curtillard, is the opening of 
the Combe de Madame, through 
which a track leads in 2-3 hrs. to the 
Col de la Croix (2,558 m., 8,393 ft.), 
at its head. Many zigzags lead down 
on the E. side to the very head of 
the Villards glen, through which the 
Col du Glandon route is followed to 
La Chambre. It is said that 4 hrs. 
suffice for the whole of the descent, 
but probably more is really required. 
Travellers are warned not to take a 
so-called short cut to the Col de la 
Croix from St. Colomban des Villards 
by the S.W. arm of the Combe 
de Tepey and the Col de Brabant. 
From the S.W. bay of the Combe de 
Madame the Rocher Blanc (2,931 m., 
9,617 ft.) may be attained direct (see 
Rte. G 1 . The highest and central 
point (c. 2.945 m *3 9-662 ft.) of the 
fine rocky mass of the RocJiers de 
V Argentiere^ between that summit 
and the Col de la Croix, long defied 
all assaults, but was finally climbed 
in 1893 by way of a gully (accessible 
from N. and S. ) which led up to the 
ridge to the E. of the peak, and then 
of the rocks of the X. face. The 
start was made from the Riou Claret 
huts, or Quatre Maisons, in the Olle 
valley, and the descent effected into 
the Combe de Madame. 

Route I. 

GRENOBLE TO URIAGE. ASCENT 
OF BELLEDONNE. 

Uriage is now best reached from 
Grenoble by the new steam tramway, 
which starts from the P.L.M. rail- 
way station, and takes about I hr. to 
traverse 8 m. (going on from Uriage 
by Vaulnaveys to Vizille, 6 m. fur- 
ther). At Gieres (4 m. ), on the main 



line from Grenoble to Chambery 
(§ 10. Rte. B), the traveller coming 
from Chambery (35 m. ) may join this 
Route. Beyond Gieres the tramway 
mounts through the pretty wooded 
gorge of the Sonnant, past the hamlet 
of the same name, to Uriage, the 
station being at the X. end of the 
village. 

Uriage (414 m., 1,358 ft.) is a 
hamlet of St. Martin d'Uriage, which 
is nearly 200 m. (656 ft. ) higher up. Its 
waters were known to the Romans, 
but it is only since 1841 that, owing 
to the enterprise of the Marquis 
de Ferriol, the proprietor, Uriage 
has become a favourite resort of inva- 
lids, the waters being specially effi- 
cacious in the case of skin diseases 
and nervous affections. The annual 
number of visitors, almost exclusively 
French, is estimated at 5.000. The 
buildings are handsome and con- 
venient, and include a fine Casino, 
as well as an admirably appointed 
Etablissement des Bains, &c., all 
built in an English park. Imme- 
diately above the village (J hr. ) is 
the Chateau (507 m., 1.663 
which contains a collection of local 
and Egyptian antiquities, some good 
pictures, and a natural history mu- 
seum, all open to visitors. It belongs 
to M. de St. Ferriol, who is the 
owner of the entire place, and has 
laid out large sums in improvements. 
The village of St. Martin d'Uriage is 
a little way above the Chateau, and 
is frequented by those who desire 
greater quietness than can be ob- 
tained at the Baths themselves. There 
are many agreeable excursions in the 
neighbourhood. The Montague des 
Quatre Seigneurs (940 m., 3,084 ft.) 
may be reached in i-| hr. , and com- 
mands a fine view, but its highest 
point is now crowned by a fort, and 
is therefore inaccessible to visitors. 
The Cascade de VOursiere tejhrs.), 
and the Chartreuse de Premol 
(if hr.), are often visited from 
Uriage, particularly by those who 
are on their way up Chanrousse or 
Belledonne. 



ROUTE I. ASCENT OF BELLEDONNE 



These two mountains form the 
chief inducement for a mountaineer 
to visit Uriage. The ascent of Chan- 
rousse is often made by pedestrians 
who do not undertake the more 
laborious escalade of Belledonne. 
The summit (2,255 m -> 7? 397 ft-) is 
marked by a cross, which from its 
great size is apt to mislead those 
who suppose themselves near the top 
of the mountain. The view is very 
fine, but to the N. and N.E. the 
panorama is closed by the higher 
summits of the Belledonne range. 
The usual way up it is to mount 
by a mule path to the picturesquely 
situated ruins of the old Carthusian 
house of Premol, 1,095 m., 3,593 ft. 
(if hr.), destroyed at the Revolution. 
(The Colde Premol isf hr. distant, by 
a char road which descends in 2 hrs. 
to Sechilienne, in the valley of the 
Romanche. Rte. A). 2 hrs. beyond 
is the Roche Beranger inn (1,850 m., 
6,070 ft. ), built by the ' Societe des 
Touristes du Dauphine ' (Alpine 
garden close by), and \\ hr. further 
( always by mule path) is the summit 
of Chanrousse, 5 hrs. from Uriage. 
(There is a steeper and shorter way 
from Uriage for pedestrians by the 
Recoin gorge, E. of the Baths. ) The 
most interesting way for the descent 
is to go by the Lacs Robert to the 
Cascade de POursiere [\\ hr. ), on the 
Belledonne route. ( From those lakes j 
a traveller bound for Bourg d'Oisans 
may reach the Col des Grandes 
Escombailles in 2 hrs., and descend 
in I hr. 40 min. more to Li vet, in 
the valley of the Romanche. Rte. A. ) 

To a mountaineer the most inte- 
resting excursion to be made from 
Uriage is the ascent of Belledonne, 
(In these regions the French 
Government map is better than the 
FoJoo-) This mountain is composed 
of three peaks — the Grand Pic 
(2,981 m., 9,781 ft.), the Pic Central 
(2,928 m., 9,607 ft.), and the Croix 
de Belledonne (2,903 m., 9,525 ft.), 
in order from N.E. to S.W. The last- 
named is that most frequently climbed 
from Uriage. A mule path mounts 



from the Baths past St. Martin 
d' Uriage, and then through a thick 
forest to the striking Cascade de 
VOnrsiere (1,480 m., 4,856 ft.), fed 
by the snows of Belledonne (3^ hrs. ) 
It then continues to ascend, in a 
N.E. direction, and, passing through 
several rocky and grassy basins, w T ith 
small lakes, gains the natural amphi- 
theatre of La Pra, at the upper end 
of which stands the inn built by the 
French Alpine Club (i|— 2 hrs.), 2,145 
m., 7,038 ft., where it is usual to pass 
the night before making the ascent. 

[Here falls in another path, coming 
from Domene, in the Graisivaudan, 
by Revel, and the Crozet lake, 
this tarn being very finely placed in 
a gorge between the Grande Lance 
de Domene and the Colon. The 
track then goes over the Col de la Pra 
to the inn, 5 hrs. from Domene, the 
way being marked throughout by the 
telephone poles. The Crozet lake 
can also be reached direct from 
Lancey, N.E. of Domene, by the 
gorge of Lancey. J 

Beyond the inn a fairly good mule 
path leads E. up a series of steps, past 
the smaller and the larger Domeno)i 
lakes, mountain tarns often frozen over 
in the summer. The foot track now 
becomes fainter and a N.E. direction 
must be kept, avoiding the snow slope 
on the N. w r hich leads to the Col de 
Freydane. A steep slope of neve must 
be mounted, and so the Col du Grand 
Do?nenon (leading into the Baton 
glen) attained. The route now turns 
to the E., and the traveller finally 
reaches a considerable, nearly level, 
snow field, in which in hot summers 
a small lake is formed, though it 
sometimes entirely disappears. A 
further ascent of \ hr. leads hence to 
the Croix de Belledonne (2^—3 hrs. 
from La Pra). With the slight draw- 
back of the horizon being broken by 
the Grand Pic (which just hides Mont 
Blanc) the panorama is magnificent, 
as might be expected from the posi- 
tion of the peak, the westernmost 
high summit in the range of the 
Alps. The Croix is also accessible 



136 DAUPHINE ALPS. § 8. AIGUILLES D'ARVES DISTRICT 



from Allemont, in the Olle valley 
(Rte. E), by way of the Ciub Imt 
(2,165 m -? 7j io 3 ft-) near tne Belle- 
donne lake (3 hrs.), whence a further 
climb up a steep couloir (of snow or 
stones, according to the season) leads 
to the foot of the final snow field de- 
scribed above, the summit being thus 
gained in iJ-2 hrs. from the Club 
hut : the bit of this route above the 
hut is very steep and rapid, though 
toilsome rather than difficult. The 
Croix may also be reached from Les 
Sables, in the Romanche valley (Rte. 
A), or from Allemont by way of the 
Baton glen between the Grande Lance 
d'Allemont and the Grande Voudene, 
the Col du Grand Domenon being 
gained in 5 hrs. , and the usual route 
there joined. The Baton glen is 
reached from Allemont by a steep and 
rapid path, which winds round the 
lower spurs running from the Grande 
Lance d'Allemont before gaining the 
bank of the Baton torrent, or better 
by the good path to the Chalanches 
mines (2J hrs. ), and thence in 1 hr. 
by the Col de la Portetta. 

The Grand Pic is more difficult of 
access than the Croix. It may be 
reached by the N.E. face (on which 
iron ropes are fixed) in 2-3 hrs. from 
the Club hut (mentioned above) at its 
S.E. foot, or in \\ hr. by its N. 
face from the Col de la Balmette 
(accessible in \\ hr. from the Club 
hut, or better in 3-4 hrs. from the 
La Pra inn by way of the Col de 
Freydane, beyond and N. of the 
larger Domenon lake). Of recent 
years (first in 1 890) it has also been 
attained from the Croix by way of 
one side or the other (specially that 
on the S.E., on which iron ropes are 
now placed) of the jagged rock ridge 
between them : I hr. or less suffices 
for the good climber to go from one 
peak to the other over the Central 
peak. 

Another excursion from La Pra is 
the ascent of the Grande Lance de 
Domene (2,813 m -> 9,229 ft.), which 
is accessible in 2-2^- hrs. by way of 
the smaller Domenon lake, and the 



rocky S. slope of the peak ; it com- 
mands a fine view over the Graisi- 
vaudan. The rather higher Grande 
Lance d'Allemont (2,844 m -, 9,331 
ft. ), to the S. , is best climbed from 
Allemont (6 § hrs, ) by the Chalanches 
glen and the Col de la Portetta (S. W. 
of the peak), or from the Baton glen, 
which is gained from La Pra by the 
Col du Grand Domenon. 



SECTION 9. 
PEL VO UX DISTRICT. 

As stated in the Introduction to 
this Chapter, the almost isolated 
group of high mountains, of which 
the best known peak is the Pelvoux, 
lies between the Romanche and 
Guisane, the Durance, and the 
Drac, in an irregular triangle, 
whose sides are about 45 miles long. 
If the level of the sea were raised 
5,000 ft. the entire district would 
form a peninsula, connected with the 
main range of the Cottian Alps only 
by the narrow neck of land forming 
the Col du Lautaret. Nothing can 
be more irregular and complicated 
than the disposition of the ridges 
which go to make up this highland 
region ; and the direction and 
grouping of the valleys show a 
similar absence of apparent order. 
The three ridges which include all the 
highest peaks, excepting the Ecrins 
and the Mont Pelvoux, show indeed 
indications of a regular plan, for they 
form the sides of a quadrangle, 
open to the W. (strictly N.W. ), 
and following pretty closely the 
direction of the cardinal points. 
Further S. again the valleys show 
a general tendency to run E. and 
W. ; but a number of lofty pro- 
montories, including peaks of 
11,000 ft. and upwards, diverge in 
every direction, while between them 



§ 9- PELVOUX DISTRICT 



137 



short and tortuous glens bear down 
the drainage of the glaciers which 
cover the upper level. The traveller 
coming from any other district of 
the Alps will be particularly struck 
by the way in which the peaks here 
are packed close together on count- 
less short ridges, and by the number 
of steeply descending small glaciers, 
some of which are literally hanging 
glaciers. There are thus a really 
remarkable number of peaks to be 
climbed and passes to be traversed 
when the comparatively small area 
of the district is considered. But 
the scenery is as a rule stern and 
savage, in parts almost unbearably 
stony, while small steep rock steps 
bar the way down from the passes 
to the level of the streams in the 
valleys in so provoking and annoy- 
ing a fashion that it has been said 
with truth that in Dauphine a pass 
has never really been made till the 
torrent in the valley has been 
gained. The most extensive glaciers 
or snow fields in the Pelvoux group 
are the Mont de Lans gl., the 
Glacier Blanc, the Glacier Noir, 
and the Pilatte gl. Next after 
these come the Selle, Homme, 
Plate des Agneaux, Chardon, Sele, 
Sellettes, and Lanchatra gls. 
The loftiest summit of the group is 
the Pointe des Ecrins (4,103 m., 
13,462 ft.), which rises nearly in 
the centre of the E. wall of the 
quadrangle. Like the Finsteraar- 
horn it can scarcely ever be seen from a 
village or a high road. It is attended 
by two lesser summits, the Pic Lory 
(4,083 m., 13,396 ft. )— the point 
of junction with the great E. wall — 
and the Pic de la Berarde (3,980 m., 
13,058 ft.), which are really but 
knobs on the Ecrins ridge. The 
second of the great summits of the 
district is the Meije (3,987 m., 
13,081ft.), one of the most splendid 
rock peaks in the Alps. It towers 
majestically over La Grave, on the 
Lautaret road, and has also two 
dependent summits, the Pic Central 
(3,970 m., 13,025 ft.) and the 



Pic Oriental (3,911 m., 12,832 ft.) 
The Meije stands not very far W. 
of the point (called the Pave, 
3,831 m., 12,569 ft.), at which the 
E. and N. walls of the quadrangle 
join. In a very nearly correspond- 
ing position (but rather N. of the 
junction of the E. and S. walls) 
rises the Ailefroide (3,925 in. , 
12,878 ft.), with two minor points, 
a feature which is common to all 
the great Dauphine peaks. This 
fine summit, with the Pelvoux, 
faces the Ecrins across the deep 
basin of the Glacier Noir, which is 
thus a spot to be visited by every 
traveller in these parts. 3,925 m. 
is the official height of the Aile- 
froide on the French Government 
map, but it is allowed on all hands 
that it is pretty certainly higher 
than the Pelvoux, and in 1862 Mr. 
Tuckett came to the conclusion 
(from the Pelvoux) that the real 
height was 3,959 m. (12,989 ft.) 
After or before the Ailefroide is 
the Mont Pelvoux (3,954 m., 
12.973 » with two minor tops, 
the only great peak in the group 
which is not on or near one of the walls 
of the quadrangle, standing rather E. 
of it, and so looking forth towards 
the Durance valley and Italy. 
Among the lesser but striking peaks 
of the group are the massive Pic 
Gaspard (3,880 m., 12,730 ft.), the 
splintered Grande Ruine (3,754 m. , 
12,317 ft.), the delicately beautiful 
Montague des Agneaux (3,660 m., 
12,008 ft.), the snowy mass of the 
Sosnmet des Kouies, 3,634 m., 11,923 
ft. (perhaps the finest panoramic point 
in the district), the crags of the 
triple-pointed Pic d'Olan (3,578 m., 
11,739 ft.), and the graceful Roche 
de la Mttzelle (3,459 m. , 11,349 ft.) 
The best headquarters in the dis- 
trict is La Berarde (1,738 m., 
5,702 ft.), which is just in the 
centre of the great quadrangle, and 
-now possesses an excellent moun- 
tain inn. La Grave, on the Lautaret 
road, is the next best in all re- 
spects. MonUier and Vallouise 



138 



DAUPHINE ALPS. § 9, 



PELVOUX DISTRICT 



are too low for starting points for 
high ascents ; but the former has a 
good inn, the latter only two bad 
ones, with a poor one at Ailefroide, 
above. The inns in the Valgaude- 
mar, Valjouffrey, and Val de 
Champoleon are not adapted for a 
long stay. Those at St. Christophe, 
in a far better position, are sin- 
gularly poor, but Bourg d'Oisans 
possesses what are now the best inns 
in the entire group. Unluckily the 
town is not well placed for 
mountaineers, and the same holds 
good even of the Lautaret Hospice, 
where the inn has been very much 
improved of late, and whence the 
Mont Cenis railway may be gained 
direct by the char road over the 
Col du Galibier. The moun- 
taineer in the Pelvoux district will 
not, of course, fail to provide him- 
self with the Dauphine volume 
(1892) of the 'Climbers' Guides' 
series, and the accompanying re- 
vised edition of the admirable maps 
by M. Duhamel. 



Route A. 

BOURG D'OISANS TO LA BERARDE. 
VALLEY OF THE VENEON. 

Char road to St. Christophe, post cart 
in 4 firs. (12 m. ) ; thence mule path 

(3 to.) 

The highest ridges of the Dauphine 
Alps form, as has been said, a quad- 
rangle, closed to the N., the E., and 
the S., but open to the N.W.. All 
the streams that fall into the interior 
of this great enclosure sooner or later 
unite with the Veneon, which flows 
first W., then N.W., till it joins the 
Romanche, that drains the outer 
slope of the N., and a portion of the 
E. wall of this quadrangle. It natu- 
rally follows that the easiest way of 
reaching the centre of this highland 
region is to follow the valley of the 
Veneon up to La Bera?-de, at its 



head. This hamlet consequently, and 
particularly since a good mountain 
inn was opened there in 1887, is the 
natural headquarters of the moun- 
taineer who desires to explore most 
of the higher portions of the district. 

From the plain or basin of Bourg 
d'Oisans (30^ m. by steam tramway 
from Grenoble : see § 8. Rte. A)' the 
course of the Veneon seems to be the 
natural prolongation of the valley of 
the Romanche, the gorge through 
which that stream descends from near 
the Col du Lautaret being too narrow 
to attract much attention at a dis- 
tance. 

The way to La Berarde follows the 
Lautaret high road (§ 8. Rte. A) for 
3 m. till this has crossed the Pont St. 
Gnillenne, and then branches oft to 
the S., soon running between high 
walls of limestone on either hand, 
which show that the traveller has 
entered the Veneon valley, through 
which the drainage of many glaciers 
is borne down. Looking back, the 
plain wherein stands Bourg d'Oisans 
is seen backed by the bold crags 
of Belledonne. The road follows 
throughout the right bank of the 
Veneon (which joins the Romanche a 
little below the Pont St. Guillerme), 
amid scattered blocks and through 
scenery which constantly increases in 
grandeur. The snowy Tete de la 
Maraillette towers overhead on the 
S. Soon the hamlet of Les Gauchoirs 
is seen in a pretty position on the 
opposite bank of the Veneon, and at 
the mouth of the Lauvitel glen, through 
which there is a little frequented pass 
to the Valsenestre (Rte. F. ad fin.) 
At a turn in the main valley the 
picturesque village of Venose (for the 
path thence by the Col de l'Alpe to 
Le Freney, on the Lautaret road, see 
Rte. C. 1), at a height of 1,049 nr., 
(3,442 ft. ), on a green slope to the left, 
comes into sight, and this oasis in the 
midst of the desolate surroundings is 
very refreshing to the eye of the 
traveller. The luxuriant vegetation 
here is due to the presence of dark 
I limestone and slate. A tongue of 



ROUTE A. BOURG D'OISANS TO LA BERARDE 



this formation extends from St. Jean 
de Maurienne, on the N., across the 
Romanche and Veneon valleys to the 
Valjouffrey, being at once distin- 
guished by its greenness, which is 
very striking. The Veneon valley 
lies in a trough amidst the surround- 
ing crystalline rocks. The new char 
road does not mount to Venose, but 
traverses one of its hamlets, Bourg 
d'Ai'ud (5 ra. from the Pont St. 
Guillerme). 

[For the Col de la Muzelle, leading 
to the Valsenestre, and the ascent of 
the Pic du Clapier du Peyron, see 
Rte. F. The chief ascent to be made 
from Bourg d'Arud is that of the 
Tete de la Muraillette (3,020 m. , 
9,909 ft.), which may be made in 5^ 
hrs. by way of the Muzelle lake, and 
the Breche du Vallon, N.E. of the 
peak ; from the Breche it is easy to 
descend in I hr. to the Lauvitel lake, 
on the W., and thence to regain 
Bourg d'Arud in 1^ hr. The view 
from the summit is interesting, for 
the peak stands as a sentinel at the 
entrance of the Veneon valley. J 

Above Venose there is no exit 
from the main Veneon valley save by 
high glacier passes over the lofty 
ranges which enclose it. There are 
few other valleys in the Alps which 
are so completely shut in. From 
Bourg d'Arud the road crosses to the 
left bank of the Veneon, and mounts 
rapidly through a gorge unsurpassed 
for ruggedness and desolation. Some 
overhanging peak has here fallen, and 
left its shattered fragments (known as 
the ' Clapier de St. Christophe') as a 
memorial of the catastrophe. One 
huge slab has fallen across the stream, 
and forms the c Pont Naturel,' which 
was traversed by the old mule path. 
The new road crosses a little higher 
up, just as it enters the stone-strewn 
plain called the ' Plan du Lac ' (rather 
over 1 m. from Bourg d'Arud). Here 
the snowy summits of the Tete des Fe- 
toules (3,465 m., 11,369 ft.) and some 
of its lower neighbours to the N. 
form a striking background. On the 
right there is a fine waterfall descend- 



ing from the Lanchatra glen, the peaks 
and passes around which are briefly 
noticed in Rte. F. c. The new road 
winds by gentle gradients up the 
stony slopes on the N.E. side of the 
valley above the Plan du Lac, but 
after passing the fine springs known 
as the 4 Fontaines Benites ' mounts 
more steeply, being carried along a 
rocky shelf. After making some zig- 
zags it traverses the Diable torrent by 
a bridge, whence there is a fine 
glimpse of the roaring torrent below, 
and by some more zigzags mounts 
round the churchyard to the village 
of St. Christophe, 1,470 m., 4,823 ft. 
(2 J m. from the Plan du Lac), the 
small chef-lien of the Veneon valley. 
It is built amid trees on the steep 
slopes between the S.W. foot of the 
Aiguille du Plat and the Veneon, 
which roars far below. Opposite 
are the two summits of the Tete de 
Lattranotire (3,299 m., 10,824 ft., 
and 3,341 m., 10,962 ft.), while more 
to the left are the Bee du Canard 
(3,270 m., 10,729ft.), and the white- 
faced Tete des Fetoules (3,465 m., 
11,369 ft.), but the Aiguille du Plat 
(3,602 m.j 11,818 ft.), immediately 
N.E. of the village, is not visible 
from it. 

[All these peaks can be climbed 
from St. Christophe. The Canard 
is most conveniently taken from the 
La Laveyhuts (see Rte. E. 4), whence 
too the Fetoules can be climbed ; but 
if bound to the latter peak from St. 
Christophe direct it is quite easy, 
when the upper level of the La Lavey 
glen has been reached, in if hr. from 
St. Christophe, to bear at once to the 
S.E., and by way of the N. arete to 
gain the summit in 4J- hrs. more. 
Either of the Tetes de Lauranoure 
may be gained in 4J-5 hrs. from St. 
Christophe by crossing the Veneon, 
remounting to near the chalets of 
the Alpe du Pin, and then ascending 
the respective glaciers flowing from 
them, and the N.E. or N.W. aretes : 
it should be carefully borne in mind 
that the highest summit is that most 
to the W. , despite appearances from 



140 DAUPHINfi ALPS. § 9. 

St. Christophe. But the chief climb 
from St. Christophe is the Aiguille 
du Plat, one of the best situated 
summits in the district whence to 
study the diverging ridges within the 
great quadrangle of the Veneon 
valley. It is attained without any 
real difficulty in rather over 5 hrs. 
from the village by way of the Plat 
glacier and the S.W. ridge, and the 
ascent is strongly recommended. If 
coming from La Berarde the ascent 
can be made by the N.E. ridge or 
S.E. face, 5 hrs. from Les Etages, 
but the rocks are very rotten on this 
side of the mountain. For the many 
passes from St. Christophe to La 
Grave, La Berarde, the Valgaudemar, 
and the Valjouffrey, see Rtes. C, E, 
and F, below.] 

Few travellers will neglect to visit 
the graves (close to, but, for various 
reasons, not in the churchyard) of two 
victims of the Meije, Dr. Emil 
Zsigmondy (killed in 1885) and Mon- 
sieur E. Thorant (killed in 1896). 

Soon after leaving St. Christophe 
the mule path circles round a deep 
ravine, and then mounts in a S.E. 
direction along the slopes high above 
the Veneon. After passing above 
a small hamlet on the right, a short 
steep ascent leads to a bifurcation 
near a spring. The left-hand path 
mounts to the hamlet of Champ 
Ebran, but the traveller bound for 
La Berarde must be very careful 
to take the right-hand path, which 
descends for a short distance, and 
passes an iron cross, at which St. 
Christophe disappears from sight. 
A small mill is passed on the left, and 
the path down towards La Lavey to 
the right, before the main track 
reaches the hamlet of Champhorent, 
just at the point, opposite the opening 
of the La Lavey glen, where the 
Veneon valley bends from N.W. to 
E. A steep descent then leads down 
to near the level of the Veneon, 
which is followed henceforth. The 
great range of snow-seamed peaks 
which bars the head of the valley 
soon appears, and remains long in 



PELVOUX DISTRICT 

sight. But the second summit of the 
Ecrins only is seen, the Pic Lory 
(4,083 m., 13,396 ft.), not the highest, 
as is often believed. The view is 
especially striking from the miserable 
hamlet of Les Etages (1,595 m., 
5.233 ft.), whence the deep-cut couloir 
leading up to the Col des Ecrins, on 
the left, is a prominent feature. Two 
side glens meet near Les Etages, that 
of Les Etages on the S. , and that of 
Soreiller, with two arms, on the N. , 
but the peaks around each will only 
interest a climber making a very 
special study of the district, and may 
be passed over here. Les Etages is 
about 2 hrs.' walk from St. Chris- 
tophe, and a short hour beyond is the 
last hamlet in the valley, La Berarde 
(1,738 m., 5,702 ft.), which is gained 
by crossing a bridge over the 
Etancons torrent, a little above its 
junction with the Veneon. 



Route B. 

EXCURSIONS AND ASCENTS FROM 
LA BERARDE. 

The position of La Berarde has 

been compared to that of Entreves, a 
short distance above Courmayeur. In 
either case two torrents flowing in 
opposite directions along the base of 
a, great snowy range, and having 
their sources in considerable glaciers, 
receive the drainage of the minor 
glaciers that descend through short 
lateral glens, and meet at a central 
point, from which they escape through 
a channel at right angles to their pre- 
vious course, thus forming a X- In 
this case the Etancons torrent, flowing 
from the N., unites, close to La 
Berarde, with that descending through 
the Pilatte glen on the S. , the latter 
being held to be the true Veneon. 
The parallel above suggested is true 
in yet another particular, for in each 
case a third short torrent joins one or 
other of the two main torrents not far 



ROUTE B. EXCURSIONS FROM LA BERARDE 141 



above the point where these unite ; 
the Bonnepierre torrent is thus the re- 
presentative here of the Brenva tor- 
rent. In other words, three glens 
and torrents practically unite to form 
the main valley, though one of these 
is unimportant compared to the 
others. 

Among the many rare plants seen 
in this district the botanist will not fail 
to notice Bei-arcHa stibacaulis, though 
this name has nothing to do with 
that of La Berarde, being taken from 
that of M. Pierre Berard, a Grenoble 
apothecary who lived in the seven- 
teenth century. In itself La Berarde 
is most uninviting, for its few and 
humble houses stand in a very stony 
and almost barren spot, at the upper 
end of the little delta (whereon are 
some trees) formed by the Veneon and 
the Etancons torrents. The latter, in 
particular, so often encroaches on the 
hamlet that an embankment has been 
constructed to protect the inhabitants 
against its ravages in the future. Two 
buildings alone are more than 
wretched houses — the chapel, quite 
recently built by the monks of the 
Grande Chartreuse, above Grenoble 
(La Berarde is in the parish of St. 
Christophe), and the Chalet-Hotel, 
constructed by the ' Societe des Tour- 
istes du Dauphine.' This comfortable 
little mountain inn stands at the 
upper end of the village, and a little 
way from it. 

A traveller who comes for the first 
time to La Berarde will certainly be 
struck by two facts. The first is that, 
with the exception of a bit of the 
Ailefroide, not one of the higher 
peaks of the district is visible from 
the village itself, though by crossing 
the Pilatte torrent or the Veneon 
a glimpse may be had of the W. 
Summit of the Meije, and the £ Glacier 
Carre.' The other is that there are 
few excursions in the neighbourhood, 
for La Berarde is in a very special 
degree adapted for Alpine climbers, 
as opposed to Alpine travellers. Yet 
the little hamlet has many charms of 
its OTrn, and there may be some who 



almost regret that it has to a certain 
extent lost its former primitiveness, 
uncomfortable in many respects as 
that was. 

1. Excursions. 

As noted above there are but 
few of these. The first, and chief, 
is the stroll by a made path up the 
belvedere of the Tete de la Mays 
(2,522 m., 8,275 ft-)> on tne N. 
The path branches off from that to the 
Etancons glen, in order to mount W. 
by zigzags, and offers no difficulties to 
even moderate walkers. The ascent 
takes 1^-2 hrs. , and the trouble is 
richly rewarded. The Meije, in par- 
ticular, is very well seen at the end of 
the stony Etancons glen, while the 
Ecrins, Ailefroide, and countless 
other summits surround the spectator 
on all sides, and make him realise 
that he is enclosed in a perfect Alpine 
labyrinth. The excursion to the 
Chardon glacier (ij hr., Rte. E. 3) is 
much recommended ; that to the 
Pilatte glacier (2 hrs., Rte. D. 3) 
may be taken by any one desiring to 
see near at hand one of the finest 
glaciers in the district ; while that 
into the Etancons glen (2 hrs. to the 
Chatelleret Club hut, Rte. C. 3) is 
worth making in order to gain an idea 
of what a stony Dauphine glen really 
is. There are now more or less good 
mule paths for some distance (in the 
two former cases to the glaciers them- 
selves) up each of these glens. 

2. Easy Ascents. 

There are a considerable number 
of these round La Berarde, the 
term ' easy 5 being employed to 
indicate those climbs which offer 
no great difficulties to a moderately 
practised mountaineer, while the 
views obtained from the respective 
summits are particularly noteworthy 
and extensive. It may be well at 
once to warn our readers that the 
ascent which looks almost the shortest 
from the village in reality takes 
nearly 5 hrs., for the peak in question, 
the Gi-a?idg Aiguille (3,422 m. , 
11,228 ft.), rises so immediately above 
La Berarde on the S.W. side of the 



DAUPHIN*? ALPS. § 9. PELVOUX DISTRICT 



valley, that its summit is thence so 
foreshortened that it seems almost 
within a stone's throw. 

(a) Perhaps the very finest pano- 
rama in the district is that to be 
obtained from the S emmet des Rouies, 
3,634 m., 11,923 ft. (5 hrs. from La 
Berarde, Rte. E. 3), at the head of 
the Chardon glacier. The ascent is 
a very easy snow walk, and is most 
strongly recommended to those who 
do not wish to undergo a great 
amount of exertion. The view far 
away to the S. is most marvellous, 
while most of the Dauphine peaks are 
included in the prospect. 

(b) Scarcely inferior to this pano- 
rama is that from the Pic Coolidge, 
3,756 m., 12,323 ft. (5| hrs. from La 
Berarde, Rte. D. 2), the highest 
point on the ridge between the Ecrins 
and the Ailefroide. Its special fea- 
ture is the unsurpassed view of the 
precipitous rock walls of the Ecrins, 
Pelvoux, and Ailefroide, which com- 
pletely shut in the Glacier Noir. The 
ascent is a trifle more difficult than 
that of the Rouies, but is well within 
the reach of even moderate moun- 
taineers. 

(c) The Grande Ruine , 3,754 m., 
12,317 ft. (7| hrs., Rte. C. 5), on 
the E. side of the Etancons glen, is a 
rather long expedition from La 
Berarde and back, but may well be 
combined with the Col de la Casse 
Deserte on the way over to La Grave 
or the little mountain inn at Alpe, 
from the latter of which it is acces- 
sible in 4J-5 hrs. It commands a 
most extensive view on all sides, par- 
ticularly of the Meije, which is quite 
close at hand. 

(d) Nearly opposite the Grande 
Ruine, on the other side of the 
Etancons glen, is the Plaret (3,570 
m., 11,713 ft.), the very easy ascent 
of which by the Plaret glacier and the 
great snowy E. face of the peak takes 
but hrs. The return may be varied 
by descending a couloir in the S.W. 
rock wall to the little glacier at its 
foot, and so down the Combe d? A?nont 
to Les Etages. Like the Grande 



Ruine this summit commands a very 
fine view of the great S. wall of the 
Meije, but the climb has the advantage 
of being a good deal shorter than that 
up the Grande Ruine. 

These four peaks are perhaps the 
most to be recommended to those 
travellers who wish to obtain glorious 
views without too great an amount of 
exertion, but, of course, there are 
many others presenting some of the 
same characteristics in the ranges 
round La Berarde. 

3. Higher Ascents. 

(a) The Pointe des Ecrins. — This 
magnificent summit, the monarch 
of the Dauphine Alps, attains a 
height of 4,103 m. (13,462 ft.), 
but was long ignored, or con- 
founded with other peaks. It is 
one of the greatest services of Mr. 
F. F. Tuckett to Alpine exploration 
that in 1862, for the first time, he 
established the facts of the separate 
existence of the Ecrins, and of its 
undoubted supremacy in the Dauphine 
Alps. Unfavourable conditions of 
weather and snow prevented Mr. 
Tuckett twice in 1862 from attempt- 
ing the ascent, and, six weeks later, 
defeated Messrs. W. Mathews and 
Bonney. The first successful ascent 
was that effected on June 25, 1864, 
by Messrs. A. W. Moore, H. Walker, 
and E. Whymper, with Christian 
Aimer and Michel Croz, who, mount- 
ing from the head of the Glacier 
Blanc (on the N. of the peak), as- 
cended by one arete, and returned 
by the other, but encountered serious 
difficulties. Some of these were 
avoided by later parties, who cut 
mainly up the steep and icy N. face, 
and reached the N.E. arete but a 
short distance from the summit. 
Fourteen successful ascents were 
made after that of 1864, all by the N. 
face, and it was not till September 2, 
1880, that Monsieur Henry Duhamel, 
with the two Gaspards, struck out a 
new route by the S. face, which has 
now practically superseded that by 
the N. face, save when the mountain 
is crossed. (For the Alpine history 



ROUTE B. ASCENTS 



FROM! LA BERARDE 



143 



of the Ecrins the monograph by Mon- 
sieur F. Perrin in the 9th volume of 
the 6 Annuaire du ClubAlpin Francais ' 
should be consulted. ) 

As regards the JV. route, it need 
only be said that there is usually no 
great difficulty in making a way up 
snow slopes and through seracs from 
the Col des Ecrins (5^ hrs. from La 
Berarde, Route D. 1) to the berg- 
schrund at the foot of the final slope 
(2-3 hrs.), the time required for the 
ascent of this slope varying, according 
to the conditions of the snow or ice, 
from 50 min. to 4 hrs. The S. route 
starts from the Col des Avalanches, at 
the S. foot of the S. face. This Col 
is reached by following the Col de la 
Temple route (Rte. D. 2) for 2 hrs. 
from La Berarde (i-§ hr. may be 
saved by spending the night at the 
Carrelet Club hut), and then bearing 
N.E. to the Vallon de la Pilatte 
glacier, by the left side of which the 
Col, 3,511m., 11,520 ft. (the great 
ice couloir on the other side has been 
traversed but once), is reached in 
2\ hrs. from the bifurcation, or 4^ hrs. 
from La Berarde. Thence the right- 
hand branch of a wide couloir in the 
S.W. wall of the mountain is as- 
cended for some distance, when it is 
necessary to bear E. across two 
narrower gullies, and to make a 
traverse over a smooth overhanging 
rock in order to reach the watershed. 
A deep snow couloir (the one real 
difficulty of the climb) must then be 
crossed to the hanging Ecrins glacier, 
which is mounted, and then the rocks 
to its right direct to the summit, 
though by climbing the snow gully in 
which it ends the S.W. ridge may be 
gained between the Pic Lory, 4,083 
m., 13,396 ft. (the highest point of 
the mountain seen from the Veneon 
valley), and the highest point. 4 hrs. 
or less suffice for the ascent from the 
Col des Avalanches under favourable 
conditions. The Pic Lory can be 
gained by a detour of a few minutes, 
while the W. Summit of the Ecrins, 
or the Dome de Neige des Ecrins 
(3,980 m., 13,058 ft.), is easily 



reached in 2J hrs. from the Col des 
Ecrins by the snowy S.E. arete, or by a 
harder route (exposed to falling stones) 
from its S. foot by a long ice couloir. 

(0) Second to the Ecrins (not 
reckoning the Pic Lory) in height, 
and barely yielding to it in point of 
interest, is the Meije (this word 
means ' Midi '), the loftiest summit 
(the Western) of which, or the Grand 
Pic, is 3, 987 m. (13,081 ft.) The Meije 
is a glorious rock wall crowned by 
three points, which rise in height from 
E. to W. , and presents a most formid- 
able appearance on all sides. The 
first attack made on it was on 
June 28, 1870, when Miss Brevoort 
and Mr. Coolidge, with Christian and 
Ulrich Aimer and Christian Gertsch, 
made the first ascent of the Central 
Summit (3,970 m., 13,025 ft.), as- 
cending from La Grave. The ridge 
leading onwards to the slightly higher 
W. Summit was thought to present 
insurmountable obstacles. Many at- 
tempts were later made to attain the 
W. Summit (for the Alpine history, of 
the Meije MM. Leser and Verne's 
monograph in the 12th volume of the 
' A nnuaire du Club Alpin Francais ' 
should be consulted), but it was not 
till August 16, 1877, that the first 
ascent was achieved by Monsieur E. 
Boileau de Castelnau, with the two 
Gaspards, a very noteworthy feat. 
On July 2, 1885, Monsieur Verne, 
with three Gaspards and J. B. Rodier, 
attained the Glacier Carre at the S.W. 
foot of the highest peak, by a very 
difficult and dangerous route from 
the Brech'e de la Meije by the W. 
arete and the great ice couloir which 
furrows the N.W. face of the moun- 
tain,- but this route has never been 
repeated. Finally, on July 26, 1885, 
H err en Otto and Emil Zsigmondy and 
L. Purtscheller, without guides, forced 
the arete between the Central and 
Western summits, the second of these 
mountaineers losing his life a few- 
days after in a bold attempt to scale 
the S. wall of the mountain from 
the great snow band which traverses 
the greater part of it diagonally. 



144 



DAUPHINE ALPS. § 9, 



PELVOUX DISTRICT 



The 1877 route is now considered 
to be harder, at least so far as re- 
gards the descent, than the arete be- 
tween the two highest peaks, but of 
recent years it has become quite an 
ordinary event for parties to traverse 
the mountain in either direction, 
though the ascent from La Berarde 
is to be preferred on the whole to the 
descent to that place. The S* route 
starts from the Chatelleret Club hut, 
in the Etancons glen (2 short hours 
from La Berarde, Rte. C. 3), that 
valley being mounted to the foot of 
the great S. buttress of the Meije, or 
the ' Promontoire,' by which the 
traveller gains the foot of the great 
S. rock wall, below the £ Glacier 
Carre, 5 which it supports (3-4 hrs. 
from the Club hut). The ascent of 
this wall constitutes the great diffi- 
culty of the ascent, and it must be 
mounted on the whole towards the 
left — that is, /^/immediately below the 
' Glacier Carre. ' The time required 
for scaling this wall varies, for divers 
reasons, from 1 to 3 hrs., or even 
more. It is then quite easy to mount 
the W. and N. edges of the ' Glacier 
Carre ' to the opening (Breche du 
Glacier Carre) between the Pic du 
Glacier Carre (3,860 m., 12,665 
on the left, and the Meije, on the 
right (f-i hr. ) The S.W. rocky 
face is easy at first, but higher up 
there is a bad bit of smooth rock just 
on the N. side of the W. arete to be 
overcome before the summit is 
reached (f hr.-ij hr. ) Under 
ordinary circumstances 8 hours or so 
are required from the Club hut, but 
of course a fast party will take less, 
and varying conditions retard or ad- 
vance equally quick parties. In No. 5 
of the 'Revue Alpine' for 1897 a 
list of the hitherto recorded ascents 
of the Meije is given, from which it 
appears that Mr. R. Corry, in 1893, 
succeeded in going from the Club hut 
to the summit in 5^ hrs., about the 
same time having been taken for the 
return to La Berarde, a marvellous 
' tour de force.' 

If the ascent be taken from La \ 



Grave it is necessary to mount by 
the right side of the Tabuchet 
glacier to the so-called Rocher de 
PAigle (4 hrs.), a rocky hump 
in the snowy ridge between that 
glacier and the Homme glacier, on 
the E. Thence the Cent?-al Su?n- 
mit (3,970 m., 13,025 ft.) may be 
gained in 2j-2j- hrs. by its N.E. 
rocky face, reached from the gap to 
the E. The traverse of the ridge to 
the W. is said not to offer any great 
difficulties for a long way, the best 
route being to walk between the 
snow and the rocky teeth which stud 
the ridge. \\ hr. from the Central 
Summit suffices to reach the top of 
the last tooth, looking down into the 
deep gap (the Breche Zsigmondy) 
between it and the Grand Pic. The 
descent into this is very difficult, but 
the reascent thence to the Grand Pic 
is made by good though steep rocks. 
i\ hr. or more may be required from 
the top of the last tooth to the Grand 
Pic, or 2 J hrs. in all from the Central 
Summit. But of course the time 
needed varies with the state of the 
rocks and the nature of the party, 
and may take 4 hrs. or more. 

The Central and Eastern Summits 
of the Meije have been noticed in § 8. 
Rte. A, as they will generally be 
climbed from La Grave. The latter 
i (3,911 m., 12,832 ft.) was first 
climbed in 1878, by Monsieur Henry 
Duhamel, and commands a most 
amazing view of the Central Summit, 
known locally as the 4 Doigt de 
Dieu.' The Pic du Glacier Carre 
(3,860 m., 12,665 ft-) 3 j ust W- of the 
Western Summit, was first climbed in 
1890 by Mr. Alfred Holmes, 1^ hr. 
being required by the hard rocks of 
the S. face and W. side from the gap 
to the W. of the peak. 

In the 2 1 st volume of the c Annu- 
aire du Club Alpin Francais ' Mon- 
sieur Paul Guillemin has published a 
very curious list of the various en- 
gravings and drawings {not paintings 
or photographs) (216 in number) of 
the Meije ; the earliest dates from 
i 1799 onrv > an d the next from 1827, 



ROUTE B. ASCENTS FROM LA BERARDE 145 



while as lately as i860 18 only were | 
known. 

(c) In the Pilatte glen there are 
three peaks which are attractive to 
those who seek rock climbs : Les 
Bans, 3,651 m., 11,979 ft. (7J hrs. 
from La Berarde, by way of the Col 
des Bans, Rte. D. 4) ; the Fifre, 
3,630 m., 11,910 ft. (6J hrs. byway 
of the Col des Avalanches, above, a, 
and Rte. D. 2) ; and the Point e des 
Etages, 3,564 m., 11,693 ft. (7J hrs. 
by way of the Col de la Lavey, Rte. 
E. 3). By the latter Col, or more 
directly, in 3 hrs., by the Veneon ! 
valley, the La Lavey chalets can be i 
reached, whence the Pic cVOlan 
(3,578 m., n,739 ft.) is accessible in 

7 hrs. (see Rte. E. 3). 

(d) There are some other summits 
nearer La Berarde which deserve a 
brief notice. The imposing Tete du 
Ronget (3,421 m., 11,224 ft.), on 
the N.W., may be climbed in 
6-7 hrs. by the S.E. arete, which is 
best reached either by following the 
ridge from the Tete de la Maye, or 
from the Plaret glacier, on the N.E., 
by a long traverse. But it can also 
be attained from Les Etages by the 
Combe d'Amont and the steep 
smooth rocks of the W. side of the 
N. ridge. The Pic Boitrcet ( 3, 697 m. , 
12,130 ft.), or S. Summit of the 
Grande Ruine, may be climbed by a 
difficult route up the very rotten 
rocks of its W. face, which do not 
seem very attractive. Finally a 
traveller who for any reason wishes 
to ascertain by personal experience 
what stones in Dauphine can be like 
should not fail to make the ascent of 
the E. and highest summit of the 
Roche d'Alvau^^^m., 11,595 ft.), 
which may be effected in rather over 
5 hrs. from La Berarde by way of 
the Col des Ecrins route (Rte. D. 1) I 
and the S. arete of the peak. The 
W. summit of the Roche, a fine rock 
tooth (3,415 m., 11,205 ft.), maybe 
climbed in 4J hrs. from La Berarde 
by way of the A Ivan glacier, the S. 
face, and the W. ridge. 

{e) Finally we may mention some 1 
1. 



of the minor peaks round La Berarde 
which can be scaled on an off day. 
The Tete de Ckarrib'e (3,442 m., 
11,293 ft.), very conspicuous from 
the village, is 4 hrs. distant by way 
of the Soni/ne or Charriere glacier 
and the Breche of that name at its 
head. The Tete de Cheret (3,159m., 
10,365 ft.) on the S. also makes a 
great show from La Berarde, and may 
be climbed in \ hr. from the Col de 
Cheret, on its S., which is 3-4 hrs. 
from La Berarde by way of the main 
and Petit Chardon glaciers (Rte. E. 
2). The Flambeau des Ecrins 
(3,523 m., 11,559 ft.) and the 
Point e de Balme Roils se (3,224 nu, 
10,578 ft.) are two rocky points on 
the ridge extending W. from the 
mass of the Ecrins : the former is 
accessible in 5 hrs. from La Berarde 
by following the route of the Col de 
la Temple (Rte. D. 2) to the point 
where it leaves that towards the Col 
des Avalanches, and then mounting 
N.E. by the S.W. side of a tongue 
of glacier to the W. ridge ; the latter 
in 6 hrs. by bearing W. from the 
same point, and then climbing the 
face direct or up to the N. E. arete. 

It need only be added that by 
going from La Berarde to the Alpe 
inn (Rte. C. 4) , the Tuckett Club 
hut (Rte. D. 1), or the Provence 
Club hut (Rte. G) many other peaks 
may be attained. For the passes 
from La Berarde, see Rtes. C, D, 
and E. 



Route C. 

VENEON VALLEY TO LA GRAVE 
AND THE LAUTARET ROAD. 

In the two preceding Rtes. we have 
described the main valley of the 
Pelvoux district, and indicated the 
principal ascents to be made from La 
Berarde, at its head, which is the 
natural centre of the region. We 

L 



146 DAUPHINE ALPS. § 9. PELVOUX DISTRICT 



must now proceed to give some 
account of the passes which lead in 
many directions from that valley, 
and afford the only means of exit 
from it save through the valley 
itself. 

It was pointed out in the Intro- 
duction to this Section that, roughly 
speaking, the Pelvoux group forms a 
quadrangle, open to the N.W., as it 
is there pierced by the Veneon 
torrent. A glance at the map shows 
that N. of this quadrangle is the 
Roinanche valley, E. the Vallouise > 
and S. the Valgaudemar ■, so that 
passes naturally lead into each of 
these three outer glens (Rtes. C, D, 
and E). But there are two main 
exceptions to this simple and sym- 
metrical arrangement, one at the E. 
and the other at the W. end of the 
district. 

So far from the whole of the E. 
slope of the E. wall of the quad- 
rangle being occupied by the Val- 
louise, that valley includes but the 
southern half of that slope. The 
reason is that from the Roche Faurio, 
on the main watershed, and just N. 
of the Ecrins, a great ridge stretches 
in an easterly direction. This cuts 
short the N. extension of the 
Vallouise, and affords room for the 
Romanche, which, instead of flowing 
directly from the Col du Lautaret, 
takes its origin at the N. foot of this 
great lateral ridge. Hence, as we 
shall see below, passes lead from the 
Veneon valley to La Grave and the 
Lautaret road not only over the 
N. wall of the quadrangle, as we 
should expect, but also over the N. 
half of the E. wall, while the exist- 
ence of the great lateral ridge already 
mentioned enables Vallouise to com- 
municate directly by passes both with 
La Grave and Monetier (Rtes. H 
and I). 

At the W. extremity of the district 
somewhat similar conditions are 
found. Just about the point where 
the Veneon valley is deflected from 
W. to N.W., the Valgaudemar on 
the S. is deflected from W. to S.W. 



Hence the Bonne valley, or Val- 
jouffrey , with its tributary the Valse- 
nestre, is thrust up into the W. slope 
or S. wall of our district, so that the 
Valgaudemar, like the Vallouise, is, 
so to speak, deprived of some of the 
passes which would lead into it 
from the Veneon valley if the arrange- 
ment of the outer valleys had been 
perfectly symmetrical. For this rea- 
son the passes from the Veneon valley 
towards the S. lead, below the point 
where that valley is deflected to the 
N.W., into the Valjouffrey, or the 
Valsenestre (Rte. F), with a single 
exception ; this is the Breche d'Olan, 
which connects the glen of La Lavey 
with the head of the Valjouffrey, 
though the other chief passes from 
that glen lead directly into the Val- 
gaudemar, thus affording a curious 
parallel with the St. Pierre glen, 
which forms the N. branch of the 
Vallouise. 

One immediate consequence of 
this complicated state of things is 
that from the Veneon valley a very 
great number of passes lie across the 
ranges separating it from the Ro- 
manche valley. Many of these are 
merely variations of better known 
passes, while others are not fitted for 
general adoption, such as the Breche 
Joseph Turc, W. of the E. Summit of 
the Meije, and the Breche Maximin 
Gaspard, S.E. of the same peak, both 
difficult and dangerous passes which 
were first forced in 1895 by Monsieur 
A. Reynier, with the guides whose 
names they bear. Referring then to 
the Dauphine ' Climbers' Guide ' for 
details as to all passes effected before 
1892, we may confine ourselves in 
these pages to notices of the passes 
which are of greatest practical utility. 
It will be most convenient to de- 
scribe them in topographical order 
from W. to E., thus beginning with 
the lowest and easiest, which lead 
from the lower portion of the Veneon 
valley. 

1. By the Col de l'Alpe.— This way 
is easy, as it is traversed by a mule 
path, and agreeable ; bjit, apart from 



ROUTE C. V^NEON VALLEY TO LA GRAVE 147 



the views gained from the pass, the 
traveller sees little more of the great 
glaciers in the neighbourhood than he 
would by following the Lautaret high 
road. From the hamlet of Bourg 
d'Arud, on the char road in the Ve- 
neon valley, the mule path zigzags 
steeply up to the N., past the pic- 
turesque village of Venose (1,049 m., 
3,442 ft.) to the chalets at the S. 
edge of the undulating pasture pla- 
teau which forms the Col, 1,660 m. , 
5,446 ft. (ij- hr. ) The surrounding 
slopes are well known to botanists 
for the many rare plants which may 
there be found. From the plateau 
there is a noble view of the Roche de 
la Muzelle, to the S., and of the 
Grandes Rousses, on the N. About 
•| hr. is required to cross the plateau 
to the chalets at its N. edge, whence 
the mule path bears right in order to 
gain the village of Mont de Lans 
(there is a short cut to the left before 
entering this village), from which a 
char road descends to Le Freney, on 
the Lautaret road (1 hr. , or 3 hrs. 
from Bourg d'Arud). A slight detour 
may be made on the way down to 
visit the Porte Romaine (just above 
the Inferney Tunnel, and \ hr. from 
the high road), a relic of the old 
Roman road which passed high above 
the left bank of the Romanche, so as 
to avoid the great gorges, and was 
the usual route till the construction of 
the new high road through these 
gorges in the present century. 

2. By the Col de la Lauze. — This 
is one of the easiest and most fre- 
quented glacier passes in the entire 
district, its name being taken from 
the local name for the black shaly 
slate which forms its summit. There 
are two ways by which it may be 
gained from St. Christophe, the 
former being the easiest, and afford- 
ing a series of most glorious views en 
route. 

(a) By the Lac Noir. — The Lac 
Noir is a considerable mountain tarn, 
which lies in a hollow below the 
S.W. end of the great Mo7it de Lans 
glacier, that covers the N. slope of 



the rugged range forming the water- 
shed between the Romanche and the 
Diable torrent, an affluent of the 
Veneon. There is now a Club hut 
near it (2,820 m., 9,252 ft.), which 
may be reached from St. Christophe 
in 3 hrs. by the Escaliers de la Mura, 
leading up from the Selle huts, in 
the Diable glen, partly by a series 
of great stairs cut in the rock ; 
but an easier though longer way 
(4 J hrs. ) is by the Breche du Grand 
Creux, attained direct from St. Chris- 
tophe by the hamlet of Le Buys, and 
endless slopes of stones. The Club hut 
may also be attained in 5 hrs. from 
Venose by a roundabout way over 
pastures and a low pass from the 
plateau of the Col de l'Alpe, or in 
rather over 5 hrs. direct from Le 
Freney by way of Mont de Lans and 
Millorsol. 

From the Club hut a stony ravine 
and snow slopes lead up in I J hr. to (or 
a point near it) the Jandri (3,292 m., 
10,801 ft.), whence the S. edge of 
the great Mont de Lans glacier is 
followed without the slightest diffi- 
culty, but amidst very grand scenery, 
to the Col (3 hrs. or less from the 
Club hut). 

(b) By the Selle Gorge.— This is 
the most direct way, and offers no 
real difficulties. From St. Christophe 
the path up the Selle or Diable gorge 
is followed, mainly along the right 
bank, to the Selle Club hut, 2,685 m. , 
8,809 ft. (3J hrs.), above the right 
bank of the Selle glacier. The gorge 
is very stony and desolate, being shut 
in on both sides by high and steep 
rock walls. There are only a few 
chalets in it, but many gullies in the 
N. wall, through which the Mont de 
Lans glacier may be gained by a 
more or less rough scramble. 

[This Club hut may serve as the 
starting point for explorations of the 
considerable Selle glacier at the end 
of the gorge, and the ranges that 
surrcund it. At its extreme head the 
Breche du Rdteau leads over to the 
Chatelleret Club hut, in the Etancons 
glen (4 J- hrs. from one hut to the 
L 2 



148 DAUPHINE ALPS. § 9. PELVOUX DISTRICT 



other). From the W. base of the 
pass the Petes du Replat (3,432 m., 
1 1,260 ft. ), on the S. , may be reached 
very easily in 2 hrs. by way of the de- 
pression between them, or the Rateau 
(3,754m., 12,317 ft.), on the N., by 
way of its S.E. ridge ( 4 hrs.) On 
the S. side of the Selle glacier several 
gaps give access to the Etancons glen, 
while on its N. side the Col de la 
Girose (accessible by a broad and 
steep snow gully) leads over in about 
4 J hrs. from the Selle Club hut to 
the little mountain inn above the Puy 
Vachier lake. J 

The Selle Club hut is just at the 
foot of the great stone-filled (often 
much snow) funnel which must be 
mounted direct to the Col de la Lauze, 
3,543 m., 11,625 ft- (3 nrs - f rom tne 
Club hut. ) 

Just W. of it is a low hillock of 
slate, which commands a more exten- 
sive view. This can be still further 
widened by climbing in \\ hr. the 
Pie de la Grave (3,673 m., 12,051 ft. ), 
on the E. of the pass, by way of the 
ice slope on its N. face, and the easy 
rocky N.W. ridge. 

The Col is at the extreme S.E. 
corner of the great Mont de Lans 
glacier, which is rather a vast field of 
neve, about 6 m. in length and 2-3 
in width. It appears to be of vast 
thickness, and is converted into 
glacier ice along its lower edge, 
which extends to, and is visible here 
and there from, the Lautaret road, 
whither there are several difficult lines 
of descent. 

Bearing to the N.E. from the pass 
the great snow fields of the Girose 
glacier are soon gained, and continu- 
ing down them in nearly the same direc- 
tion the rocky ridge of the Col dn Lac 
is crossed to a rocky hollow. This 
must be descended in order to attain 
the shores of the beautiful little Puy 
Vachier lake, near which there is 
now a little mountain inn, 2,400 m., 
7,874 ft. (i| hr. from the pass.) 
The view from the lake of the pre- 
cipices of the Rateau overhead, and 
of the marvellous W. Summit of the 



Meije, is most glorious. It is even 

finer from the hillock on the W. 

(1 hr. off), the Peyron cPAval, or 
I from the higher Peyron d?A??iont, 

2,862 m., 9,390 ft. (2 hrs.), on the 
I S.E. 

From the inn a mule path descends 
N. E. across pastures to the Chalvachere 
chalets, and across the torrent of that 
name (descending from the Breche 
: de la Meije) to the Romanche, which 
j is crossed before La Grave is gained 
\ by a short ascent (i§ hr. from the 
inn). 

This expedition can hardly be too 
: highly recommended. 

3. By the Breche de la Meije.— 
This is the notch at the head of the 
: Etancons glen, between the Rateau 
and the Meije, which, though a 
natural gateway, seems very formid- 
' able on the La Grave side, so that it 
was only crossed for the first time in 
1864 by Messrs. Moore, H. Walker, 
and Whymper. The way thither 
i from La Berarde (as for the two 
passes next to be described) lies 
through the Etancons glen, which 
forms the N. arm of the Veneon 
; valley. It is famed for its many 
I stones, though really not worse than 
several other glens in this district. 
From La Berarde the mule path 
mounts round the E. flank of the 
Tete de la Maye, and then crosses 
to the left bank of the Etancons 
I torrent, which is followed to the 
i Chatelleret Club hut, 2,250 m., 
! 7,382 ft. (2 short hours), on the 
green 1 oasis ' well known to older 
' explorers of these ranges. On the 
way to and from the Club hut there 
j is a very fine view of the S. wall of 
I the Meije at the end of the glen, 
though it is here rather foreshortened, 
! so that the scene is more impressive 
if the traveller mounts from the level 
of the glen a little way up the slopes 
j on either side. This Club hut is the 
! best starting point for many ascents, 
i though of recent years active climbers 
have preferred to make them direct 
! from La Berarde. Most are noticed 
I in connection with the passes near 



ROUTE C. V^NfiQN VALLEY TO LA GRAVE 149 



them, so that here it is only necessary 
to point out that the Meije has been 
described in the preceding Rte. , and 
that the R&teau (3,754 m., 12,317 ft.) 
may be attained in 5 hrs. from the 
Club hut by way of the S.E. arete, 
which is more easily gained from the 
Selle glacier (see 2. above), while the 
route from near the N. foot of the 
Breche de la Meije by the E. arete is 
long and difficult. 

There is no difficulty (though many 
stones are traversed) in mounting the 
Etancons glen to the glacier of that 
name, or on that glacier itself, while 
the final rocks which defend the pass 
are quite easy, if attacked on the 
left. 3 hrs. suffice to go from the 
Club hut to the Breche (3,300 m., 
10,827 ft*) j whence there is a sudden 
and striking view of La Grave, far 
below. 

A steep slope of snow or ice, with 
a bergschrund which may sometimes 
be troublesome, leads down to the 
upper snows of the Meije glacier, it 
being best as a rule to bear far to 
the E. Those snows are then crossed 
in a W. direction to the great rocky 
Enfetchores buttress (not always easy 
to gain direct), which separates two 
fine icefalls. These rocks are not 
difficult, being made up of several 
shelves and being very firm and good. 
At their base the moraine below the 
E. icefall is traversed, and the path 
on the right side of the Chalvachere 
torrent followed, the path from the 
Col de la Lauze being joined on 
the way to La Grave. 4J hrs. 
are required from the pass to La 
Grave. Naturally this pass is far 
more laborious when taken from La 
Grave, which is a good deal lower 
than La Berarde. But the scenery is 
throughout first-rate, and, though not 
the easiest, it is by far the most 
direct route between La Berarde and 
La Grave. 

4. By the Col du Clot des Cavales. 
— At the beginning of this Rte. it was 
pointed out that the Romanche has 
its sources at the base of a great 
ridge which runs eastwards from the 



Roche Faurio, and the two next 
passes to be described lead from La 
Berarde to the head waters of that 
river. There is now a comfortable 
little mountain inn near the Alpe 
chalets on the La Grave side. 

A great number of passes connect 
the Etancons glen with this inn, but 
in these pages two only need be 
noticed, a third, the Col du Pave, 
close under the E. Summit of the 
Meije, being only mentioned here by 
reason of the amazing view thence 
across the S. wall of the Meije, even 
better seen from the Pave (3,831 m., 
12,569 ft.), which is accessible from 
the pass in 2\ hrs. by the W. face 
and S. ridge. 

The Col du Clot des Cavales is the 
easiest way from La Berarde to La 
Grave, while it has long been known 
to the natives, and offers no diffi- 
culties if the right way (rather in- 
tricate on the La Berarde side) be 
hit ; it is now well marked up to the 
base of the final couloir. This route 
starts from the Chatelleret Club hut, 
in the Etancons glen (see 3. above), 
and mounts E. by grass and stones 
to the upper debris slopes above the 
steep rocks descending to the valley. 
Here the traveller should be careful 
to turn his back on the basin filled by 
the Grande Ruine glacier on the E. , 
especially on a very tempting-looking 
notch (the Col de la Grande Ruine) 
in its N. E. corner. The right way 
to our pass here turns due N. , a track 
being followed over rocks between 
the precipices above the Etancons 
glen on the left, and the rock ridge 
rising on the right to the S. Pic des 
Cavales. In this way the neve in 
the hollow between the two Pics des 
Cavales is gained, and thence a broad 
snow couloir to the N.E. leads up to 
the Col (3,128 m., 10,263 which 
is the opening between them (3 hrs. 
from the Chatelleret). Either of 
these summits can be gained from the 
Col by a steep scramble up rocks. 
The Col commands a fine view of 
the Meije, though not so fine as from 
several other points of view. The 



DAUPHINE ALPS. § 9. PELVOUX DISTRICT 



broad Clot des Cavales glacier, on the 
other side, offers as a rule no diffi- 
culties. It is quitted on its left bank, 
and then the crest of a huge old grass - 
grown moraine followed, and then 
stones on the left bank of the torrent, 
the Clot des Cavales hollow lying on 
the right hand. Soon after reaching 
the junction of the Clot des Cavales 
stream with the infant Romanche, 
flowing from the S., a quaint rock 
and earth bridge leads over to the 
right bank of the combined streams. 
The way is now nearly level, and 
becomes less and less stony till, after 
passing the ruined mine buildings on 
the left, a short ascent up grass slopes 
leads to the little mountain inn 
(2,100m., 6,890 ft.) near the Alpe 
chalets (2 J- hrs. from the Col). 
From the Clot des Cavales glacier 
there is a very fine view of the 
couloir-streaked precipices of the N. 
face of the Grande Ruine, w T hile 
from the inn the E.most point on 
that ridge, the Roche Meane($, 700 m. , 
12,140 ft.), is a very striking object. 

£This little inn offers admirable 
headquarters for exploring the neigh- 
bouring peaks. Of these the Grande 
Ruine (5 hrs.) is noticed under 5. 
below, the Pic deNeige Cordier in Rte. 
H, and the Montague des Agneaux 
in Rte. I. 1. Few travellers will be 
tempted by the stony ascent of the 
Pics de Neige du Lautaret to the 
N.W., but that of the Pic Gaspard 
(3,880 m. , 12,730 ft. ), itself a splendid 
object, is recommended to active 
climbers. It was first vanquished in 
1878 by Monsieur H. Duhamel, who 
gave it its present name in honour of 
his guide, Pierre Gaspard, the first 
conqueror of the Meije the year 
before. Its ascent takes 7-8 hrs. 
from the inn by way of the grass- 
grown moraine described above, the 
Claire glacier to the S.E. of the 
peak, and the E. face and a final 
rocky narrow ridge. It can also be 
scaled in 8 hrs. by a difficult climb up 
its very steep rocky S.W. face. The 
view of the Meije from the summit is 
most remarkable and impressive.] 



From the little inn at Alpe it is 
easy to go in \\ hr. or less by the 
narrow footpath, called the ' sentier 
des Crevasses,' round the flank of 
I the Pyramid e du Laurichard to 
j the Lautaret Hospice. Should the 
j traveller desire to reach La Grave 
he has only to follow the mule 
path from Alpe above and along 
the right bank of the Romanche 
to Villard d\4rene, 2 m. from La 
Grave by the Lautaret high road 
( iJ-2 hrs. from the inn to La Grave). 
From the inn Monetier may be 
reached in 3 hrs. or less by way of 
the grassy Col cPArsine (2,400 m., 
7,874 ft.), on the S.E. 

5. By the Col de la Casse Deserte.— 
This pass was discovered in 1863 by 
Messrs. Bonney and W. and G. S. 
Mathews, who reached it from the 
E., but it was first completely 
traversed in 1873 by Miss Brevoort 
and Mr. Coolidge. It is more diffi- 
cult than the Clot des Cavales 
because the glacier on the La 
Berarde side varies much. From the 
Chatelleret Club hut the way lies 
due E., as for the Clot des Cavales, 
this direction being for a time 
changed for one to the S.E., as the 
Grande Ruine glacier is mounted. 
On the left are seen the rotten, 
though not really very difficult, rocks 
leading up to the Breche Giraud- ■ 
Lezin (3,598 m., 11,805 ft- )> at the 
N. foot of the highest summit of the 
Grande Ruine. The seracs of the 
Grande Ruine glacier must be forced 
(when possible) close under the Pic 
Bourcet, and then a snowy hollow 
and couloir lead up to the narrow 
notch of the pass, 3,510 m., 11,516 ft. 
(4 hrs. from the Chatelleret hut), be- 
tween the Pic Bourcet (3,697 m., 
12, 130 ft. ), on the S. , and the Grande 
Ruine (3,754 m., 12,317 ft.), on the 
I N. Both summits may be climbed 
j hence. The former is a difficult rock 
j climb of 6| hrs. up the S.E. face, and 
has also been ascended from the S. 
and W. (see last Rte.), but the rocks 
are extremely rotten. The Grande 
Ruine is far easier, and may be 



ROUTE C. VENEON VALLEY TO LA GRAVE 



151 



attained in I -J hr. or less by the S. E. 
arete, gained from the Col by making 
a round over the lower portion of 
that ridge to the Upper Plate des 
Agneaux glacier, or by climbing up 
nearly direct from the snowy hollow 
just on the La Berarde side of the 
pass (5J-6 hrs. from the Club hut). 
The panorama from the Grande 
Ruine is one of the finest in the 
district, so that this ascent has 
become a favourite one, especially 
from the inn at Alpe. 

A very short snow gully leads from 
the Col to the Casse Deserte glacier, 
by which and the stones on its left 
bank the Lower Plate des Agneaux 
glacier, on the S.E., is gained without 
any difficulty ( 1 hr. ) This is a long and 
level ice stream nearly wholly covered 
by moraines, and deeply sunk in a 
hollow between high and precipitous 
ranges. At its W. end is seen the 
narrow and very steep snow couloir 
leading up to the Breche de Charriere, 
and on the S. the still more repulsive 
ice slopes by which the Breche 
(PAlvau is gained : both passes con- 
nect this glacier with La Berarde, but 
neither is fitted for general adoption, 
and indeed the second has been crossed 
but once. The Plate des Agneaux 
glacier offers no difficulties beyond 
stones. The great couloir of the 
Col de la Roche Faurio is seen 
on the S.E. , while more to the E. 
is the Agneaux glacier, descending 
from the Col Emile Pic (for both 
passes see Rte. H). It takes about \\ 
hr. to reach the Etoile tarn, at its' lower 
end, the true Source of the Romanche. 
The right bank of the Romanche 
is then followed, the way from the 
Col du Clot des Cavales being joined 
where it crosses to that bank. The 
inn at Alpe may be reached in § hr. 
from the little tarn mentioned, or in 
3 \ hrs. from the pass. 

In concluding this comparatively 
brief notice of the passes from the 
Veneon valley to various points on 
the Lautaret road it may be once 
more pointed out that there are many 
o.ther routes than those here indicated, 



while active mountaineers will prefer 
to traverse peaks, even the Meije, as 
has of late years become quite fashion- 
able. But ordinary travellers should 
bear in mind that such feats are not 
for every one. 



Route D. 

LA BERARDE TO VALLOUISE. 

As the Vallouise is on the E. slope 
of the E. wall of the quadrangle 
formed by the Pelvoux group it is 
obvious that from no spot lower down 
the Veneon valley than La Berarde can 
passes be effected across the dividing 
range. Hence the title of this Rte. 
differs slightly from those of the 
others which describe passes leading 
from the Veneon valley. 

There is not as great a choice of 
passes to the Vallouise as there is 
from La Berarde to La Grave, because, 
as noted in the last Rte., the ridge 
stretching E. from the Roche Faurio 
has deprived Vallouise of a great part 
of the E. slope of the group. Of the 
four main passes to be noticed below 
the Col de la Temple is by far the 
finest and easiest, considered as a 
mere route from one valley to the 
other. But the scenery on the Cols 
des Ecrins and du Sele is also very 
grand, while the Col de la Pilatte 
will be visited only by those who are 
in search of difficulties. 

1. By the Col des Ecrins. — This 
pass was first crossed in 1862 by Mr. 
Tuckett, and has been compared to 
the Strahlegg, though it appears to the 
present writer (W. A. B. C. ) that the 
famous Oberland pass rather resem- 
bles the Col de la Temple. The Col 
des Ecrins is nowadays chiefly 
traversed by parties who have crossed 
the Ecrins from the Col des Ava- 
lanches. Practically, though the 
statement is not quite accurate topo- 
graphically, the central of the three 



152 DAUPHINE ALPS. § 9. 



PELVOUX DISTRICT 



branches which make up the Veneon 
valley is the Bonne Pierre glen, which 
opens a little N. E. of La Berarde, its 
torrent joining that from the Etancons 
glen instead of the combined 
streams of the Etancons and 
Pilatte glens. That torrent is crossed 
a little way above La Berarde, 
and then its right bank and the crest 
of the gigantic moraine on the right 
bank of the glacier of that name 
followed till the upper level of that 
glacier can be attained. Hitherto 
there have been a vast number of stones 
even for Dauphine, but this drawback 
is largely made up for by the wonder- 
ful sight of the pinnacle-crowned 
precipices of the mass of the Ecrins 
overhead, though of course the 
highest summit is not visible. The 
base of the very long, steep, and nar- 
row ice couloir giving access to the 
Col may t>e reached in 3§ hrs. from 
La Berarde. The ascent of the 
couloir takes more or less time, ac- 
cording to its condition, but 2 hrs. 
generally suffice, and it is often best 
to climb the steep rocks on its right 
bank. The pass (3,415 m., 11,205 ft.) 
is a narrow window in a jagged rock 
ridge, but on the other side is on a 
level with the upper snows of the 
majestic Glacier Blanc. The attention 
of the traveller will naturally be at once 
attracted by the sight of the great N. 
faceofthePointe des Ecrins (4, 103 m., 
13,462 ft.), the monarch of the 
Dauphine Alps, which rises S. of the 
Col. It was by that face, or the 
ridges which frame it, that the first 
15 ascents of that superb summit 
were made, all, that is, that were 
effected before the discovery by M. 
Duhamel in 1 880 of the route up the 
S. face, which is now generally pre- 
ferred. A full account of the peak 
was given in Rte. B. above, as it is 
one of the principal expeditions to be 
made from La Berarde. A very good 
view of it may be obtained from the 
Roche Faui-io (3,716 m. , 1 2, 1 92 ft. ) , 
on the N. of the Col, and easily 
accessible thence in i\ hr. by either 
its S. or E. ridge. 



The way down towards Vallouise 
lies over the gently inclined slopes of 
the Glacier Blanc, which are very easy, 
while the surrounding scenery is ex- 
tremely grand, particularly the crags 
which rise on the ridge running N.E. 
from the Ecrins. (The highest of 
these, the Barre Noire, 3,800 m., 
12,468 ft., is accessible by the W. 
face and N.W. arete in 40 min. from 
the notch to its S.W.) In about I 
hr. it is necessary to take to the left 
bank of the glacier to avoid the first 
icefall, and then to descend stones 
and rocks close to the edge of the ice 
to the rocky hollow at the S. foot of 
the Montagne des Agneaux, wherein 
is the Tuckett Club hut, 2,504 m., 
8,216 ft. (2J hrs. from the pass.) It 
was near this spot, by a spring, that 
the early explorers of these regions 
used to bivouac. Hence there is a 
most glorious and famous view of the 
Pelvoux and its neighbours. 

[From this hut (which is rather 
damp) several ascents, besides that 
of the Ecrins, may be made. That 
of the Montagne des Agneaux — 
much recommended — is described in 
Rte. I. , and that of the Pic de Neige 
Cordier in Rte. H. The Point e de 
la Grande Sagne ( 3 , 7 7 9 m . , 1 2 , 399 ft. ) , 
on the other side of the glacier, may 
be climbed in rather over 5 hrs. byway 
of the notch at the S.W. foot of the 
highest pinnacle, and the S.W. ridge ; 
from that notch, the Col de la Grande 
Sagne, the Glacier Noir can be 
attained in 1 \ hr. without any great 
difficulty by a deep snow couloir, and 
this is an alternative route from the 
Club hut to the Pre de Madame 
Carle. J 

It takes a long hour to descend 
from the Club hut to the Pre de 
Madame Carle, the rocks on either 
side of the Glacier Blanc being prac- 
ticable, those on the right bank being 
the most convenient. The Pre is a 
stone-strewn plain, whereon there are a 
few pine trees, amongst which is the 
Cezanne Club hut (1,851 m., 6,073 
ft. ), which will in the future be but 
little used, as there is now at last a 



ROUTE D. LA BERARDE TO VALLOUISE 



153 



little mountain inn at Ailefroide. The 
Pre was formerly the meeting point 
of the Glacier Blanc and the Glacier 
Noir, but the snout of the former has 
long retired high up the cliffs, while 
the latter is at its lower end so covered 
with stones that it is not always easy 
to determine where it ends. The 
singular name of this plain is derived 
from a noble lady who in the sixteenth 
century managed the estates (of which 
luckily the Pre was but a small part) 
of her deceased husband on behalf of 
her ten infant children, and has no 
connection with any legend, as is 
often supposed. 

The path from the Cezanne Club 
hut soon crosses the St. Pierre torrent 
by a bridge, and leads along its left 
bank through the N. branch of the 
Vallouise to the little triangular green 
plain of Ailefroide (1 hr. ), where 
stand a few miserable huts and 
(some way to the S.W. ) the new 
Inn, by far the best headquarters 
for mountaineers at the head of the 
Vallouise. There are many fine trees 
on this plain, and several magnificent 
springs of the freshest and most 
sparkling water, while its position at 
the junction of the St. Pierre glen 
with that of Celse Niere (see 3. 
below, and for the ascent of the Pel- 
voux, Rte. G) makes it a very central 
spot whence to explore the neighbour- 
ing ranges. The mule path towards 
Vallouise ' winds among huge lichen- 
stained blocks, beneath the shade of 
scattered larches, and past rounded 
domes of rock, scored and chiselled by 
ancient glaciers, while in a deep ravine 
on the left roars the torrent which 
bears down the waters flowing from all 
sides of the Pel voux 5 (W.M. revised). 
There are few more picturesque bits 
in the Dauphine Alps, and the 
traveller will be almost sorry when a 
final stony descent brings him, at the 
last across the river, to the village of 
Les Claux {\ hr. ) It is just at the 
foot of the imposing precipices of the 
Pelvoux, and on the way to Monetier 
by the Col de PEychauda (Rte. I. 3). 
Thence it is 3 m. (a short hour) by a 



char road along the left bank of the 
stream, now called the Gyr, which 
is crossed to Ville Vallouise, a little 
above the point at which it becomes 
the Gyronde by its junction with the 
Onde from the other main branch of 
the Vallouise. 

2. By theQol de la Temple.— This 
is in almost every respect the best 
route by which to go from La Berarde 
to Vallouise. The pass can easily be 
combined with the ascent of the Pic 
Coolidge (3,756 m., 12,323 ft.), an 
extremely grand view-point. 

The way to the pass lies through 
the S. or main branch of the Veneon 
valley, the Pilatte glen. The mule 
path runs along the right bank of the 
torrent. The opening of the Chardon 
glen (see next Rte. ) is passed on the 
right, there being a small grassy plain, 
with some rude huts (mostly ruined), 
at the meeting of the two glens. 
About 1 J hr. from La Berarde is the 
Carrelet Club hut (2,070 m., 6,792 
ft. ), to gain which a short stony ascent 
must be made along the left bank of 
the Pilatte lateral torrent. That tor- 
rent must be crossed on leaving the 
hut, and then a rough steep zigzag 
track mounted in an E. direction 
through a forest of dwarf pine trees 
to the edge of a considerable hollow 
(J hr. ) Leaving here the way to the 
Ecrins and the Col des Avalanches 
(see Rte. B. 3) on the left hand, the 
way bears sharply to the 5. across 
the stones at the foot of the S.W. 
spur of the Pic Coolidge, more stones 
then bringing the traveller to the 
Temple glacier, up which snow slopes 
lead without the slightest difficulty to 
the pass, 3,283 m., 10,771 ft. (3 hrs. 
from the Club hut), a pass which has 
long been known to the natives. On 
the E. the view is mainly limited to 
the great peaks round the Glacier 
Noir, which present a variety of fan- 
tastic forms ; while on the W. the 
summits round the Chardon glacier 
are very striking. In \ hr. from the 
Col the low Pic de la Temple (3,314 
m. , 10,873 ft-) can De easily attained. 
But it is far preferable either to 



154 DAUPHINE ALPS. § 9. PELVOUX DISTRICT 



bear N.E. from the main Temple 
glacier (before making the last ascent 
to the pass) by a branch of that 
glacier, at the head of which the S. 
ridge of Pic Coolidge (3,756 m. , 
1 2, 323 ft. ) is gained by rocks in 3 J hrs. 
from the Club hut, and the summit, 
along that easy ridge, in a good 
\ hr. more, or from the Col itself 
to mount by the whole of the S. 
ridge direct in ij hr. to that peak. 
From no other point can a finer view 
be gained of the precipitous rock 
walls of the Ecrins, Ailefroide, and 
Pelvoux which close in the deep 
Glacier Noir, while much else is seen, 
so that this peak deservedly attracts 
many visitors, who, while unable 
themselves to ascend the loftiest peaks 
of the district, yet desire to admire 
them. 

[Looking N. from the Pic Coolidge 
over the rock tower of the Fifre, 
3,630 m., 11,910 ft. (a rock scramble 
of about 2 hrs. from the Col des 
Avalanches), is the gap of the Col des 
Avalanches (3,511 m., 11,520 ft.) 
This is in a sense a variation of the 
Col de la Temple, but the formidable 
ice couloir on the E. side has been 
but once traversed, so that, as the 
pass is easily reached from the W., 
and forms one step in the ascent of 
the Ecrins from the S., it is more 
convenient to notice it in Rte. B. S. 
of the Pic de la Temple is the Col de 
la Coste Rouge (3,152 m., 10,342 ft.), 
a rather shorter variation of the 
Temple, reached on the W. by the 
Coste Rouge glacier, and accessible 
on the E. from the Glacier Noir by a 
short snow couloir. J 

The descent from the Col de la 
Temple on the E. lies over debris, 
and then to the S. by an easy rock 
couloir (to the head of which there is 
a track), the Glacier Noir being 
attained in about | hr. from the pass. 
This considerable glacier is through- 
out nearly the whole of its length 
covered by stones, but the views of 
the great precipices on all sides, and 
of the striking couloir of the Col des 
Avalanches, serve to distract the atten- 



tion of the wearied traveller. It is 
best to keep towards the left bank of 
the glacier, which is very nearly 
level, quitting it on the right bank in 
order to gain (3 \ hrs. from the pass) 
the Cezanne Club hut, on the Col des 
Ecrins route (1. above), which is two 
good hours from Vallouise. The Col 
de la Temple may for. ease and beauty 
be compared to the Strahlegg or 
Tschingel Passes. 

3. By the Col du Sele.— At the 
extreme S. head of the Pilatte glen of 
the Veneon valley is the splendid 
Pilatte glacier, one of the most ex- 
tensive and magnificent in the Pel- 
voux district. From it, besides the 
Col du Says, leading to the Valgaude- 
mar (see next Rte.), there are several 
passes over to the Vallouise. The 
easiest and most recommended of 
these is the Col du Sele, though care 
must be taken, if mounting from La 
Berarde, to strike the right spot on 
the ridge. 

From the Carrelet Club hut the 
way lies up the right bank of the 
torrent to the Pilatte glacier (f hr. ), 
which is then mounted, the icefall 
being easily turned by rocks on the 
left bank. (From the lower plateau 
the Col de V Ailefroide, between the 
Ailefroide and the Pointe du Sele, is 
due E. , at the summit of a steep rock 
wall, above the Coin glacier. ) The 
upper plateau once gained, the snow 
gap of the Col de la Pilatte (4. below) 
lies due S. , but to gain the Col du 
Sele it is necessary to bear gradually 
from S.E. to E. over snow slopes, 
thus sweeping round the head of the 
glacier, and finally climbing a short 
rocky barrier to the pass, 3,302 m., 
10,834 ft. (4J hrs. from the Club 
hut. ) The view is rather limited, so 
that travellers are strongly advised to 
ascend either the Pointe du Sele 
(3,483 m., 11,428 ft.), N. of the pass 
(by a snow gully leading from its 
S.E. foot, and then round to the N. 
ridge, 1 \ hr. up from the Col), or the 
highest summit of the Crete des B&ufs 
Rouges {1 ,454 m., 11,333 ft.), on the 
S. (ij hr. by the E. side of the N. 



ROUTE D. LA BERARDE TO VALLOUISE 



355 



ridge, and the rotten rocks of that 
ridge. ) 

[One of the finest objects to be seen 
from the Sele glacier is the Ailefroide 
(3,925 m., 12,878 ft.), the highest 
and most westerly summit of which 
was first ascended in 1870 by Mr. 
Coolidge from this side. From the 
left edge of the lower portion of the 
Sele glacier the Ailefroide glacier is 
gained and traversed to its right 
bank, whence the ascent is completed 
by the S.S.E. ridge, by snow and 
rocks (5J hrs. from the left bank of 
the Sele glacier). This peak has been 
gained from La Berarde by a long 
and roundabout way via the W. 
ridge, but attempts to reach it from 
the Coste Rouge glacier, on the N.W. , 
have, as yet, proved unsuccessful, so 
that the route of 1870 is still the best. \ 
It is possible that the Ailefroide is ; 
higher than the Pelvoux, and so 
should rank as the third independent I 
peak in the district. J 

The way down the Sele glacier is 
easy, the cliffs of the Ailefroide on 
the left dividing the attention of the 
traveller with the rocky pinnacles on 
the Crete des Bceufs Rouges ridge on 
the right, which divides this glacier 
from the Bans glen of the Vallouise. 
In 1 hr. it is quitted on its left bank, 
where it descends steeply (if there is 
much snow leave the glacier on its 
right bank, and descend direct by 
snow to the Celse Niere glen). A 
steep rocky barrier leads down to a 
huge slope of shifting stones (locally 
called a ' clapier '), by which the head 
of the Celse Niere glen is attained. 
Many stones then bring the traveller 
along the left bank of the torrent to 
the huge overhanging boulder known 
as Sonreillan (2,229 m -> 7>3 J 3 ft. ), 
used as a bivouac by the early ex- 
plorers of this district, and for some 
time (but now no longer) fitted up as 
a rough Club hut, Refuge Ptiiseux. 
(For the ascent of the Pelvoux 
from the Provence Club hut, \\ hr. 
higher up the mountain-side on 
the N., see Rte. G.) It is about 
I hr. further to the little inn at j 



Ailefroide (I. above). The Celse 
Niere glen is a barren and dreary 
spot, the fitting scene of a horrible 
event, which took place here in 1489, 
when many of the Waldensians of 
Vallouise were smoked to death in a 
cave high up on the side of the 
Pelvoux. This is the Balme Ckapelu, 
which is said to be now inaccessible. 
The inn at Ailefroide is hr. above 
Vallouise (see 1. above). 

4. By the Col de la Pilatte.— This 
rarely traversed pass lies over the 
snowy ridge at the extreme S. extre- 
mity of the Pilatte glacier, and was 
first crossed in 1864 by Messrs. 
Moore, H. Walker, and Whymper, 
whose adventures on the way have 
been vividly described by two 
members of the party. There is 
no very great difficulty, beyond 
gradually steepening snow or ice 
slopes, in gaining (4 hrs. from the 
Carrelet Club hut) any one of several 
points on the snowy ridge extending 
between the foot of Les Bans and the 
highest summit -of the Crete des 
Bceufs Rouges. This ridge has been 
crossed at at least three points, which 
may be thus distinguished : — 

1. Col des Bans, forced in 1 877 by 
Monsieur E. Boileau de Castelnau. 
This is close to the E. foot of Les 
Bans, and W. of several low snow 
humps. 

2. Col de la Pilatte.— The 1864 
party crossed E. of these snow humps, 
and W. of a much higher two-headed 
snowy summit. 

3. Since 1877 some parties have 
traversed a pass still more to the E., 
between the double-headed snowy 
summit and the highest point of the 
Crete des Bceufs Rouges. 

From any. of these passes a very 
steep ice or snow couloir leads down 
to the small, but crevassed, Bans 
glacier (x| hr. ), whence the Col du 
Sellar route (Rte. K. 1 ) is joined at the 
Entraigues chalets (2 hrs. above Val- 
louise) in 2 hrs. from that glacier. 

These passes are practically useful 
for one reason only, since from no. 1 
(J hr. longer from no. 2) the fine 



156 DAUPHINfi ALPS. § 9. PELVOUX DISTRICT 



rocky summit of Les Bans (3,651 m., 
11,979 ft.) can best be ascended in 
about 2 hrs. by its rocky N.E. face, 
it being necessary gradually to keep 
nearer and nearer the E. arete. It 
rises at the meeting point of three 
valleys, so that the view is singularly 
interesting. The first ascent was made 
in 1878 by Mr. Coolidge by the 
route described. In 1895 Rey- 
nier succeeded in effecting the difficult 
ascent of the slighter lower N. peak 
from the head of the Valgaudemar by 
way of the glacier at its W. foot, and 
then traversed the whole ridge in 
rather over 1 J hr. to the S. peak. In 
1896 the same indefatigable climber 
effected a new route up the S. peak 
from the Bans glacier, by way of a 
rocky spur (reached from the N. ) 
projecting from the great E. wall of 
the peak, the S. arete being then 
gained, and mounted to the summit. 
Bdi these two routes are far harder 
and more roundabout than that of 
] 878, which has been adopted by the 
comparatively few travellers who have 
hitherto attacked this grand, rocky 
summit. 



Route E. 

VENEON VALLEY TO THE 
VALGAUDEMAR. 

It was explained in Rte. C that the 
direct passes from the Veneon valley 
to the Valgaudemar on the S. cross 
only the E. portion of the great S. 
wall of the Veneon valley ; but, 
though the range which they traverse 
is thus of comparatively limited ex- 
tent, there are no fewer than five 
main passes across it, the three first 
to be described leading from La 
Berarde over to Le Clot, at the head 
of the Valgaudemar, and the • two 
others from St. Christophe more 
directly to La Chapelle, its principal 
village. The Cols du Says and de la 



I Muande are the easiest, and the Col 
j des Sellettes by far the hardest, while 
the Col des Rouies can very easily be 
combined with the ascent of the 
Sommet des Rouies (3,634 m., 11,923 
ft. ), one of the chief belvederes of the 
Dauphine Alps. 

1. By the Col du Says. — This pass 
has long been known to the natives, 
though the first passage by a foreign 
traveller seems to have been that by 
1 the late Principal Forbes in 184 1. 

The lower plateau of the great 
Pilatte glacier (see last Rte. 3 and 4) 
is joined by the crevassed Says 
\ glacier, flowing from the S.W. It 
j takes about i± hr. from the Carrelet 
Club hut (Rte. D. 2)— which is itself 
i-J hr. from La Berarde — to reach 
that lower plateau. The icefall of 
the Says glacier is turned by easy 
rocks (crystalline overlaid by slate) on 
its left bank, and above, snow slopes, 
intersected by some crevasses, lead to 
the Col, 3,136 m., 10,289 ft- ( 2 nrs -> 
or 5 hrs. from La Berarde). 

The most striking object from the 
Col is the Ailefroide on the N.E. , 
which, generally having the appear- 
ance of a broad wall, from this point 
has the air of a tremendous rocky 
cliff, streaked here and there with 
snow. On the S.E. of the Col is the 
Mont Gioberney (3,350 m., 10,991 ft.), 
accessible in 1 \ hr. by an easy snow 
ridge (also in 2 hrs. or so direct from 
the lower plateau of the Pilatte glacier), 
while on the N.W. is the S. Summit 
of the Pics du Says (3,409 m., 
11,185 ft.), best reached from the 
foot of the icefall of the Says glacier 
in 2J-2 J hrs. by the N.W. branch of 
that glacier, and then either the N. 
. or S. rocky ridge. 

The descent from the pass into the 
I Valgaudemar lies down a short snow 
1 wall, succeeded by steep broken and 
: partially disintegrated talcose rocks, 
which seem worse than they really 
i are. Beyond, pastures are traversed 
' horizontally along the N. side of the 
upper Severaisse glen till near a 
waterfall it is possible to descend to 
; the level of that glen. At the head 



ROUTE E. V^NEON VALLEY 



TO THE VALGAUDEMAR 157 



of this glen there are gold and silver 
mines, worked a few years ago by an 
English company. The path from 
them along the left bank of the 
Severaisse, or (shorter) that along the 
right bank of the same stream, is fol- 
lowed to Le Clot (2-| hrs. from the 
Col), in the Valgaudemar, of which 
more will be said under 3. below. 

2. By the Col du Chardon.— This 
pass (3,092 m., 10,145 ft-) is rather 
shorter than the Col du Says, and is 
therefore here briefly noticed. It is 
reached from the Chardon glacier (see 
under 3) by the Petit Char don glacier, 
which flows into it from the S.E., 
while on the other side, a good \ hr. 
after leaving the pass, and crossing a 
small glacier, the Col du Says route 
is joined. This is the shortest way 
from La Berarde to the Valgaudemar ; 
less than 5 hrs. suffice for the ascent 
from La Berarde, and rather more 
than 2J hrs. for the descent to Le 
Clot. 

3. By the Col des Rouies. — It is 

scarcely possible to imagine an easier 
route than that from La Berarde to 
this pass, so that travellers who do 
not desire to make any adventurous 
expeditions in the higher regions of 
the Dauphine Alps should not fail to 
visit at least the Chardon glacier, if 
not the very easy Sommet des Rouies, 
at its head. 

From La Berarde the Veneon stream 
is crossed on leaving the inn, and 
then a mule path winds round the 
flanks of the Rocher de PEncoula, 
passes high above the junction of the 
Chardon side glen with that of 
Pilatte, and some way beyond (many 
beautiful Alpine flowers are to be 
found en rotite) gradually descends 
to the level of the wide and nearly 
level Chardon glacier (1^ hr. from La 
Berarde). This is mounted without 
the slightest difficulty, the traveller 
having on his left the very steep ice 
and snow wall of the Vaxivier, and 
on the right a series of precipitous 
rocky summits, on the ridge between 
the Chardon glen and that of Les 
Etages. At the end of the level por- 



tion of the glacier grassy and rocky 
slopes ^on the right lead up to the 
small Ane glacier (2 hrs. from the 
point at which the Chardon glacier 
was entered upon). 

[Immediately to the W. is the Col 
de la Lavey (3,330 m., 10,926 ft.), 
reached in hr. more. It is in a 
most A singular topographical position. 
The Ane glacier joins the La Lavey 
glacier, which sends one arm into the 
Etages glen on the N., while the 
main stream flows S.W. into the La 
Lavey glen. From this pass 2 hrs. 
suffice to gain the chalets in the La 
Lavey glen (see 4. below), while the 
bold rocky crag of the Point e des 
Etages (3,564 m., 11,693 ft-) can be 
best ascended in 2§ hrs. from the Col 
by way of the S. face or W. ridge, a 
sharp rock ridge leading on from a 
lower summit to the culminating 
point. It is the second highest peak 
on the ridge between the Chardon and 
Etages glens, all of which, with this 
exception, can be climbed from either 
side.] 

A traveller bound for A the Col des 
Rouies should, from the Ane glacier, 
bear S.W., so as to gain the upper 
plateau of the Rouies glacier, above 
the great icefall by which it descends 
to the Chardon glacier, and then, 
passing along the base of the Sommet 
des Rouies, and bearing S.E., the 
snowy ridge of the pass (3,300 m. , 
10,827 ft-)? justW. of a rocky mound, 
is attained (5^ hrs. from La Berarde). 

[From the plateau of the Rouies 
glacier the Sommet des Rouies 
(3,634 m., 11,923 ft.) may be reached 
with ease by either ridge in about 
5 hrs. from La Berarde. It was first 
ascended in 1873 by Messrs. Gardiner, 
Cox, and W. M. Pendlebury, and Rev. 
C. Taylor. In the opinion of some 
competent judges the panorama from 
this point ranks among the very finest 
in the whole of the Dauphine Alps, 
the view over the ranges far away to 
the S. being extremely impressive. 
It can be attained from La Lavey 
either by way of the Col of that name 
— see above — or from the Muande 



DAUPHINE ALPS. § 9, 



PELVOUX DISTRICT 



glacier, on the W. ; the best route 
thence is that discovered by M. 
Reynier in 1894, who from close to 
the Col de la Muande crossed the 
Point e de la Muande (3,319 m. , 
10,890 ft.) in 1 hr. 20 min. to the 
foot of the S. arete of the Rouies, by 
which that summit was attained in 2J 
hrs. more. J 

The descent on the other side of 
the Col des Rouies lies down snow 
slopes and a snow gully to the lower 
part of the E. bit of the Grande 
Roche glacier, the E. bank of which 
is henceforth followed down several 
rocky steps, and then one or other 
bank of the torrent from the glacier ; 
the right bank of the Severaisse tor- 
rent is gained \ hr. above Le Clot 
(1,463 m., 4,800 ft.), the highest 
village in the Yalgaudemar (2§ hrs. 
from the pass). 

£Le Clot, which now boasts a 
small mountain inn at the hamlet 
of Le Plaine, is very good head- 
quarters for the exploration of the 
neighbouring peaks. Several have 
been mentioned under 1, 2, and 3, 
above, while the Pic des Aupillous — 
with the passes to the Yallouise — is 
described in Rte. K. below, as also 
the principal summits of the fine, but 
very rarely visited, Bonvoisin group 
on the E. Perhaps the finest ascent 
to be made from Le Clot is that of 
Sirac (3,438 m., 11,280 ft.), on the 
S.E., a very grand mountain, the N. 
precipices of which are torn by count- 
less steep gullies, which give it a 
fluted appearance ; it is 6| hrs. from 
Le Clot, the route being noticed in 
some detail in Rte. M. 1, in connec- 
tion with the Col de Yallonpierre, 
giving access from Le Clot to the 
head of the Drac valley. 3 

Le Clot is in a most savage and wild 
situation, surpassing even that of La 
Berarde. It is about 2 hrs. (mule path) 
hence through very desolate scenery, 
and over many stones, to La Chapelle, 
the principal village of the valley. 
The valley is remarkable for its nar- 
rowness, and the steep inclination of 
the slopes on either side. Several 



miserable hamlets are passed on the 
way, and the stream is crossed once 
beyond the fine waterfall of Le Casset, 
where the char road (2m.) begins. 
The Valgaudemar or Severaisse valley, 
E. of Yillard Loubiere, forms the 
commune of ' Guillaume Perouse,' 
while the Navettes glen, which opens 
S. of La Chapelle, forms that of 
6 Clemence d'Ambel.' These curious 
names are derived from Clemence, a 
15th-century descendant of one of 
the coheiresses (in the 14th century) 
of the lordship, and Guillaume 
Perouse, the purchaser (in the 16th 
century) from the heirs of another, 
and are still in official use. 

La Chapelle en Valgaudemar is 
built in a very picturesque position, 
on the left bank of the Severaisse, 
amid trees, and at the mouth of the 
savage gorge on the S. through which 
thunders the Navettes torrent. (For 
the peaks of the Parieres and the 
Chaillol ranges and the passes over 
them, see Rte. M. 2, 3, and 4.) 

[N. of La Chapelle is the magnifi- 
cent rock summit of the Pic d'Olan 
(3,578 m., n,739 ft.), just at the 
point where the S. wall of the quad- 
rangle formed by the great ridges of 
the Pelvoux group bends from W. to 
N.W. It has two principal peaks. 
The more southerly of these was first 
conquered in 1875 by Mr. R. Pendle- 
bury, while in 1877 Mr. Coolidge 
pushed on to the slightly higher N. 
Summit : in both cases the ascent 
was made by a long and difficult 
route from La Chapelle by way of the 
Clot glacier, at the S.W. foot of the 
peak, and the great S.W. rock wall, 
a lower point being traversed on the 
way to the S. Summit (8-8-J hrs. 
from La Chapelle), and the N. sum- 
mit gained, by a descent into a deep 
gap, and a reascent, in an hour more. 
But this laborious route has now been 
superseded by two much better ones. 
In 1880 Mr. Cust climbed the N. 
Summit from near the Breche d'Olan 
mainly by way of the great rocky 
N. ridge and its E. slope (3-J hrs. 
from the Col, or 7 hr from the La 



ROUTE E. VfiNEON VALLEY TO THE VALGAUDEMAR 159 



Lavey Club hut). Finally in 1 89 1 
Mr. Alfred Holmes struck out 
another route from the Olan glacier, 
at the head of the Combe F?'oide, S. E. 
of the peak, climbing thence up the 
rocks on the left bank of the great 
snow couloir (at the end up the 
couloir itself), descending from the 
notch between the two summits to 
that notch, whence the 1877 route 
was followed. hrs. should be 

allowed by this route from La 
Chapelle : from near the upper end of 
the great couloir it is possible to 
avoid the notch, and to climb straight 
up to the S.W. ridge of the N. Sum- 
mit. The Olan is a fine peak from 
all sides, especially on the N.W. , 
from the head of the Valjouffrey. J 

There is a char road from La 
Chapelle along the right bank of the 
Severaisse to St. Firmin en Val- 
gaudemar, at its entrance (10 m. ), 
which is 1 1 m. from Corps, or 4 m. 
from the main road between Corps 
and Gap (Rte. P). On the way down 
from La Chapelle Villard Loubiere 
(2J m. ) and St. Maurice (6m.) are 
passed ; from both places, as also 
from La Chapelle, there are passes 
over to the Valjouffrey, which are 
noticed in Rte. O. 

4. By the Col de la Muande. — 
Some distance higher up the Veneon 
valley than St. Christophe, and just 
at the point where it bends from W. 
to N.W., a considerable side glen 
opens on the S. This is the La Lavey 
glen, the chalets in which (where 
there was formerly a small Club hut), 
1,780 m., 5,840 ft., may be reached 
in 2\ hrs. from St. Christophe, or in 
3 hrs. from La Berarde, the respec- 
tive paths descending from the main 
mule path in order to cross the 
Veneon, and then making a steep 
ascent by the right bank of the torrent 
to the upper level of the valley. 

[Besides the Pic d'Olan— 3. above 
— several other peaks can most con- 
veniently be climbed from these 
chalets, such as the Tete des Fetoules 
(3,465 m., 11,369 ft.), on the E., 
4 \ hrs., or the Bee du Canard \ 



(3,270 m., 10.729 ft.), on the W., 
4 hrs. For the Aiguille d'Olan and 
the Aiguille des Arias see Rte. F. , a 
well as for the Breche d'Olan to the 
Valjouffrey. For the Col de la Lavey 
to the Chardon glacier, the Sommet 
des Rouies, and the Pointe des Etages 
see 3. above. 3 

The head of the La Lavey glen is 
closed by two glaciers, separated by 
the N. ridge of the Cime du Vallon, 
and unexpectedly extensive. Over 
that to the S.E. leads the Col de la 
Muande, while over that to the S.W. 
lies the route of the Col des Sellettes 
(5. below). For the former the right 
bank of the torrent is mounted for an 
hour to the end of the glen, whence a 
short two hours up grass and debris 
suffice to reach the right bank 
of the Muande glacier. This is then 
mounted in a S.E. direction to the 
natural gateway which forms the Col, 
3,059 m., 10,037 ft. (if hr., or 
4f hrs. from La Lavey.) (For the 
ascent of the Pointe de la Muande 
(3,319 m., 10,890 ft.), on the E., in 
1 hr., and of the Rouies in 2 hrs. 
50 min. more, see under 3. above. ) 

A steep snow or ice couloir leads 
down in \ hr. to the Lauzon glacier, 
which is quitted on its right bank. 
Three-quarters of an hour below is a 
shepherd's hut, whence a rough path 
brings the traveller in f hr. more to 
the hamlet of Rif du Sap in the 
Valgaudemar, about 1 hr. above La 
Chapelle or below Le Clot, either 
being thus reached in 3 hrs. from the 
pass. 

5. By the Col des Sellettes.— This 
is a much more difficult pass than the 
Muande, and in fact, so far as regards 
its N. side, one of the most difficult 
in Dauphine, but in mere point of 
distance it is the most direct from the 
Veneon valley to La Chapelle en 
Valgaudemar. It was first crossed by 
Mr. Coolidge in 1876. The left bank 
of the torrent is followed from La 
Lavey up the glen, and then by a 
diagonal ascent across the stones on 
the E. flank of the Aiguille d'Olan the 
plateau between the two icefalls of 



i6o BAUPHINE ALPS. § 9. PELVOUX DISTRICT 



the Sellettes glacier is attained (2 hrs. ) 
Leaving to the W. the way to the Pic 
and Breche d'Olan (which mounts by 
rocks on the left bank of the glacier 
to its upper plateau), this lower 
plateau is crossed to the foot of the 
final slope. Either the seracs must 
be forced far to the E., or a very 
steep rocky buttress climbed on the 
W., so as to gain the gentle snow 
slopes by which the pass (3,200 m., 
10,499 ft. ) is attained (4J hrs. from 
La Lavey). It is worth while to 
mount by the snowy ridge to the 
Cime dtt Vallon, 3,418 m., 11,214ft. 
(a good \ hr. ), on the S. E. 

A rocky barrier leads down to the 
E. bit of the Olan glacier, below 
which (1 hr. ) the right bank of the 
Combe Froide is followed to the shep- 
herd's hut at its junction with the 
Combe du Clot (J hr. ), I hr. above La 
Chapelle (2 J hrs. from the pass). 



Route F. 

VENEON VALLEY TO THE VAL- 
JOUFFREY. 

At the Pic d'Olan the S. wall of 
the quadrangle formed (as observed 
above) by the main ridges of the 
Pelvoux group ceases to run E. and 
W. , and takes a N.W. direction. 
This allows the long and winding 
valley of the Bonne (or the Valjouf- 
frey), with its side glen of the 
Be range?' (or Valsenestre) to thrust 
itself in between the Veneon and 
Severaisse (or Valgaudemar) valleys, 
a fact which means that there are 
passes from the Veneon valley to the 
two glens just mentioned, and it is 
well to devote a few words to them, 
since they enable a traveller to gain 
La Mure and the lower valley of the 
Drac direct from the Veneon valley. 

The Valjonffrey may be gained 
from St. Christophe through three 
side glens of the Veneon valley. 



(a) From the head of that of La 
Lavey (described in the last Rte. ) it 
is necessary to bear round the E. 
base of the Aig. d'Olan (3,383 m., 
11,100 ft.) to the upper and W. 
plateau of the Sellettes gl., across 
which is the Breche or Col d'Olan, 
2,962 m. 3 9,718 ft. (3| hrs. from La 
Lavey. ) An easy descent down a 
broad snow couloir leads into the 
head of the Bonne valley, through 
which a wearisome walk brings the 
traveller to Le Desert (Rte. O), in 
3J-4 hrs. from the pass. From near 
the top of the pass the N. and 
highest summit of the Pic d'Olan 
(3,578 m., 11,739 ft. ) maybe climbed 
by its steep N. ridge (many falling 
stones) in 3§ hrs., while the Aiguille 
d'Olan (3,383 m., 11,100 ft.), oppo- 
site, may be climbed by its S. face 
in about ij hr. 

(b) A more direct route lies through 
the Mariande glen, the entrance of 
which is gained by mounting the very 
steep path opposite St. Christophe to 
the Alpe du Pin, and then rounding 
the spurs of the Tete de Lauranoure. 
The pass at the very head of the 
glen, seen over the considerable 
Mariande gl. , is the Col de la 
Mariande, above the main Valjouf- 
frey valley, but by keeping more to 
the S.W. (finally nearly W.) the Col 
de la Haute Pisse may be crossed to 
the glen of that name. 7J-8 hrs. are 
required by either route, each pass 
being about 3, 100 m. (10,171 ft.) high. 
If it is desired to climb the Aiguille 
des Arias, 3,401 m., 11,159 ft. (re- 
commended), on the way, it is better 
to cross the ridge by the Col des 

I Arias, just at the W. foot of the 
peak, which is thence attained in 
2 hrs. by means of its S.W. arete ; 
the lower summit J hr. off, at the N. 
end of the final ridge, is visible from 
St. Christophe. 

(c) Yet another glen is that of 
Lanchdtra, which joins the Veneon 
valley at the N.W. end of the Plan 
du Lac. From the stone bridge a 
path mounts to the S. first gradually, 
then steeply to the hamlet of Lan- 



ROUTE F. VENEON VALLEY TO THE VALJOUFFREY 161 



chcitra (2J hrs. from St. Christophe 
or Venose), high above the 1. bank 
of the glen, and conspicuous from 
afar. The Lanchatra glen is then 
followed to its head, in a due S. 
direction, and over the easy gl. 
the pass of Les Berches (3,050 m., 
10,007 ft. ) ; a notch between two rocky 
horns, being attained in 4^-5 hrs. 
from the hamle:. (By hearing W. 
from the head of the glen over 
another branch of the gl. the E. foot 
of the Roche de la Muzelle (3,459 m., 
11,349 ft.) may be reached, and the 
summit gained by the N.E. face in 
5 \ hrs. from Lanchatra. The view 
is magnificent. It is possible to 
descend direct from the top to 
Valsenestre by the S. E. arete. ) 
The descent down the Combe de la 
Pisse is straightforward, and in 
2j hrs. the Bonne valley is reached, 
I hr. above Le Desert. 

There are also two passes which 
lead from the Veneon valley into the 
Valsenestre branch of the Valjouffrey ; 
the best starting point for both is 
Venose, though the second may also 
be taken from Bourg d'Oisans. 

1. Col de la Muzelle. — This pass 
lies at the very head of the Muzelle 
glen, which joins the Veneon valley 
just opposite Venose. The ascent to 
the Muzelle lake is long and steep 
(3 hrs.), thenceforth more gentle over 
shale and snow to the pass, 2,500 m., 
8,202 ft. (ij hr. ) It is certainly not 
passable for mules, as has been some- 
times stated. A very steep shale 
slope leads down into a black gorge 
on the other side, through which the 
Beranger glen is reached in ij-hr., 
and the hamlet of Valsenestre (Rte. 
O) in \ hr. more ; thence it is if hr. 
(3! m.) by char road to La Chapelle 
en Valjouffrey. A climber will prefer 
to cross over the Pic du Clapier du 
Peyron (3,172 m., 10,407 ft.), going 
up the E. arete (attained from a point 
a little below the Col, on the Venose 
side) and down by the S.E. face. 

2. Breche de Valsenestre. — The 
Lauvitel glen opens out into the 
Veneon valley at Les Gattckoirs, 

I. 



between Venose and Bourg d'Oisans. 
The Lauvitel lake, one of the finest in 
the Dauphine Alps and famous for its 
trout, some way above, is reached in 
2 hrs. from Venose or 2| hrs. from 
Bourg d'Oisans. The lake is crossed 
on a raft, or skirted by a track on its 
E. side, and then a long ascent over 
rocks, and up a small snow gully, 
brings the traveller to the pass 
(2,634 m., 8,642 ft.) in 3I-4 hrs. 
from the N. end of the lake. (The 
Signal du Lauvitel (2,906 m. , 
9,534 ft.), on the W. of the pass, can 
be climbed on the way, either direct 
from the lake or by gaining its S. 
arete from the S. E. ) A traverse to 
the r. (avoiding the steep gully 
just below the pass) brings the tra- 
veller to the head of a grassy hollow, 
where it is necessary to keep to the 
1. in order to descend straight- 
down the gorge to the village of 
Valsenestre (3 hrs. from the pass). 



Route G. 

BRIANCON TO VALLOUISE. 
ASCENT OF THE MONT PELVOUX. 

In the six preceding Rtes. we have 
described the main valley of the Pel- 
voux District, that of the Veneon, 
but the Mont Pelvoux itself is not 
accessible, nor even visible, from any 
point in that valley or its immediate 
neighbourhood, though of course from 
the ranges which enclose it the Pel- 
voux is a conspicuous feature in the 
view. To approach that peak it is 
necessary for the traveller to make 
his way to the Vallouise, a glen tra- 
versed by the Gyronde stream, which 
joins the Durance under La Bessee. 
This valley occupies a unique topo- 
graphical position. It is, in the first 
place, the only considerable valley of 
the main Pelvoux group which opens 
on its E. flank. It is further made 
up of two chief branches, those of the 

M 



162 DAUPHINE ALPS. § 9. PELVOUX DISTRICT 



Gyr on the N. , and of the Onde or I 
Bans on the W. (uniting at the prin- 
cipal village), which are again split 
up into a number of side glens. The 
more northerly (that of St. Pierre) of 
these two branches is the more re- 
markable, for not only, as might be 
expected, do passes lead through it 
to the Veneon valley (Rte. D), but 
also to La Grave on the W. side, and 
to Monetier on the E. side of the Col 
du Lautaret ; the reason is that from 
the Roche Faurio, on the main 
watershed, a great ridge runs N.E., 
then S.E., while from one of the 
highest points on it, the Montague 
des Agneatix, a spur runs due N. 
through the Com bey not group to the 
summit level of the Col du Lautaret. 
In this way a great number of passes 
lead from the Vallouise to the 
Romanche valley, both indirectly 
through the Veneon valley, and 
directly past the head waters of the 
Romanche itself, while others give 
access to that of the Guisane (Rtes. 
D, H, and I). If now we turn our 
attention to the more westerly 
(that of the Onde or Bans) of the two 
principal branches of the Gyronde 
we find that by it not merely can the 
Valgaudemar , its natural continua- 
tion on the W., be attained, but 
also through various side glens the 
head waters of the Drac itself (Rtes. 
K and L), which ultimately receives 
the stream flowing from the Valgaude- 
mar. The Vallouise is thus most im- 
portant from a topographical point of 
view, but, as its chief hamlet, Ville 
' Vallouise, lies low (1,150 m., 3,773 
ft. ), any ascents made direct from it 
are long and laborious, so that it will 
be visited mainly by those travellers 
who reach it by some pass. The new 
inn at Ailefroi&e (2 hrs. higher) is 
destined to become the principal 
resort of travellers in this neighbour- 
hood, at any rate of those desirous of 
exploring the N. branch of the 
valley. 

Vallouise is best reached by a char 
road (picturesque in parts) of 6 m. 
from the L'Argentiere-La Bessee sta- 



tion of the Briancon and Grenoble 
railway (Rte. Q), which is 8 m. below 
Briancon and 9 m. above Mont- 
dauphin-Guillestre, so that this valley 
is very easily attained by a traveller 
coming from the Viso district through 
the Queyras (§ 4. Rte. B). The road 
winds round a projecting spur past 
Les Vigneaux, in order to gain the 
wooded level of the valley, backed 
by the imposing mass of the Pelvoux. 
The left bank of the Gyronde is fol- 
lowed, till it is crossed to enter the 
main village of Ville Vallouise ( 1, 150 
m -j 3?773 ft-) There is here a fine 
parish church of the early fifteenth 
century, with a very remarkable and 
striking porch of the sixteenth cen- 
tury. But otherwise the village is 
composed of poor and miserable 
houses. In the Middle Ages the 
valley was named ' Vallis Puta ' (or 
the infected valley), because it was 
inhabited mainly by heretical Wal- 
densians. Many attempts were made 
by the Pope to convert them, and in 
the fifteenrh century a number of 
bloody persecutions took place here. 
In 1478 the valley received its present 
name from Louis XL, who took the 
inhabitants under his protection, but 
it had largely to be repeopled, and 
the present dwellers are a stunted 
race, much subject to the goitre. For 
the reason given above there are few 
climbs which can conveniently be 
made direct from Vallouise, most of 
the neighbouring summits being best 
attained by way of the various passes 
leading from the valley. With the 
single exception of the Mont Pelvoux, 
the Point e de PAigliere (3,325 m., 
10,909 ft.), to the S.W., is the expe- 
dition most to be recommended from 
Vallouise itself. It is accessible in 
little more than 5 hrs. by way of the 
pretty Narreyroux glen, and then the 
N.E. arete and S.E. face, or S.W. 
arete, no difficulty being encountered, 
although there are many stones at the 
end of that glen. It is a very fine 
belvedere. 

But the main object of a moun- 
taineer who finds his way to Vallouise 



ROUTE G. ASCENT OF 



THE MONT PELVOUX 163 



is the ascent of the Mont Pelvoux, 

the best known peak, though but 
the third (possibly only the fourth) 
in height, of the Dauphine Alps. Its 
summit consists of a snow basin, with 
the edges irregularly chipped, and 
one side (the S. ) quite broken away ; 
on its rim rise the various points 
which together form the Mont Pel- 
voux, while the basin itself is sup- 
ported upon a conical and very lofty 
pedestal of rock, which presents a 
magnificent sight from all sides. 
From this basin glacier tongues de- 
scend in different directions, but in 
these pages we may pass over that 
to the E., as well as the precipitous 
N.W. wall, by both of which daring 
climbers have forced their way to the 
summit. The usual route lies up the 
S. slope of the mountain, while there 
is another route by the W. slope, and 
these alone need here engage our 
attention. The uppermost basin was 
first attained as far back as 1830 by 
Captain Durand, who spent two 
nights there, but does not seem to 
have gone from the rock-crowned 
Pyramide (3,938 m., 12,920 ft.) to 
the snowy and rather higher Point e 
Puiseux (3,954 m., 12,973 ft.), a 
little to the S.W. The latter point 
was attained in 1848 by M. Victor 
Puiseux, and is that ascended in 1861 
by Messrs. Whymper and Macdonald, 
whose ascent first made known this 
fine mountain, which up to that time 
had been wrapped in mystery. In 
1862 Mr. F. F. Tuckett discovered 
the true route to the summit, while 
in 1 88 1 Mr. Coolidge effected a new 
and generally easy route from the W. 
It may suffice to simply mention Dr. 
Passavant's ascent in 1882 from the 
E., and that of Mr. Swan in 1 891 
from the N.W., the last-named ex- 
pedition being one of the most splen- 
did achievements of modern moun- 
taineers. The night before the ascent 
is generally spent in the Club hut, 
known as the Refuge de Provence or 
Lemercier (2,724m., 8,937 ft.), which 
is i^hr. from the old Refuge Puiseux, 
on the route of the Col du Sele (see 



Rte. D. 3), the latter being 3 \ hrs. from 
Valloaise past Les Claux, and up the 
Celse Niere glen. Mr. Tuckett's route, 
w 7 hich is by far the shortest and best, 
mounts direct N. by the rocks E. of 
the little Clot de V Homme glacier, 
high up on the left bank of which a 
snow gully gives access to the upper 
basin ; crossing this either of the 
chief summits is attained in 3 hrs. 
or less from the Club hut. The 
old route (that of 1861) from the 
Refuge crosses (not always easy) to 
the right or W. bank of the small 
glacier named, and then mounts the 
long and wearisome steep rocks 
known as the Rockers Rouges : this 
way is often preferred by the local 
guides, but is nearly an hour longer 
than that just described. When there 
is much snow on the rocks it is better 
to cross to the right bank of the 
glacier, as stated, and then to bear 
round in a W. direction to the edge 
of the Sans Nom glacier, some way 
up which a great snow wall on the 
E. gives access to the upper basin, 
reached close to the Pointe Puiseux., 
which may thus be attained under 
favourable conditions in 3J hrs. from 
the Club hut. 

[From that glacier the Pic Sans Nom 
(3,915 m., 12,845 ft.) can be climbed 
by the rocky S.E. face and W. arete 
in 4J hrs. from the Refuge, while by 
a further traverse to the W. the Petit 
Pic Sans Nom (3,588 m., 11,772 ft.) 
may be reached, mainly by its N.E. 
ridge, in 5| hrs. from the Club hut. J 

The prospect from the Pelvoux is 
very extensive and magnificent. One 
of its chief features is the wonderful 
sight of the S. wall of the Ecrins, 
seen across the deep hollow of the 
Glacier Noir. The Mediterranean 
is certainly not seen from the sum- 
mit. 

Besides the two principal summits, 
there are aJso the Trots Dents, and 
the Petit Pelvoux (3,762 m., 12,343 
ft.), both S.E. of the Pyramide. It 
is easy, and a very pleasant excursion, 
to climb all four on the same day, 
which makes a splendid high-level 
M 2 



x64 DAUPHINE ALPS. § 9, 



PELVOUX DISTRICT 



route. It is best to first reach the 
Pointe Puiseux, and then to follow 
the ridge towards the E. , as the Petit 
Pelvoux is just E. of the snow gully 
by which the ascent to the upper 
basin is best made from the Provence 
Club hut. 1 J- hr. or less should 
suffice for the round from and back to 
the point at which the upper snow 
basin is attained by Mr. Tuckett's 
route. 



Route H. 

VALLOUISE TO LA GRAVE. 

It was pointed out in the last Rte. 
that, owing to the great spur which 
runs eastwards from the Roche Faurio, 
on the main watershed, and a ridge 
which parts off in a N. direction to 
the Col du Lautaret, there are direct 
passes from the Vallouise both to La 
Grave and Monetier, on either side of 
the Col du Lautaret. They all lead 
naturally through the N. branch of the 
Vallouise, the routes thither being, for 
a longer or shorter distance, identical 
with those of some of the passes to La 
Berarde (Rte. D). In this Rte. it is 
proposed to notice the direct passes 
to La Grave, the less important, as 
well as lower, routes to Monetier 
being described in the following Rte. 

In the case of all three of those 
leading to La Grave the best starting 
point is the Tuckett Club hut (Rte. 
D. 1), 2,504 Hi., 8,216 ft., 5 hrs. 
above Vallouise. 

Of the three passes to La Grave 
which lead from the upper snows of 
the Glacier Blanc, one only, the Col 
Emile Fie, is of practical interest to 
travellers, though it is the most re- 
cently discovered. The oldest pass, 
the Col du Glacier Blanc (3,308 m., 
10,854 ft.), first achieved by Mr. 
Tuckett in 1862, though perfectly 
easy (as are the two others) on the 
Glacier Blanc side, is defended on the 



La Grave side by a high and steep 
wall of shattered rocks, which offers 
considerable difficulties ; it leads to 
the short but broad Arsine glacier, 
which is one of the veiy few glaciers 
in the Alps which send streams to 
two distinct rivers, as it overlaps the 
nearly level summit of the Col 
d' Arsine, between the Romanche and 
Guisane rivers. 7 hrs. are required 
by this pass from the Club hut to the 
little mountain inn at Alpe, but the 
descent of the wall, like the descent 
of the couloir in the case of the next 
pass, is far harder than its ascent. 
Far to the S. W. of this pass, and just 
N.E. of the Roche Faurio (3,716 m., 
12,192 ft.), is the Col de la Roche 
Faurio (3,470 m., 11,385 ft.), first 
crossed in 1874 by Messrs. R. Pendle- 
bury and C. Taylor. On the La 
Grave side there is a long, steep, and 
dangerous couloir of ice or snow, the 
rocks on the left side of which must 
be followed, after the highest steep 
ice slope has been passed. But this 
couloir prevents the pass from being 
fit for any but a few climbers, and 
hence it is of little practical use. It 
has a frozen lake on the summit, and 
from it the Roche Faurio may be 
climbed in 1 \ hr. , or rather more by 
way of the Glacier Blanc and the E. 
arete. It is one of the most favour- 
able points whence to study the N. 
face of the Ecrins. 

The Col Emile Pic (3,502 m., 
11,490 ft.), just S.W. of the Pic de 
Neige Cordier (3,615 m., 11,861 ft. ), 
was discovered and crossed in 1877, 
the name given to it being that of the 
leading guide on the occasion of the 
first passage. It is the true route 
from Vallouise to La Grave. From 
the Club hut the upper snows of the 
Glacier Blanc are gained by the Col 
des Ecrins route (Rte. D. 1), and then 
a short ascent to the N.W. up snow 
slopes and a small rocky barrier 
brings the traveller to the pass in an 
easy 3 hrs. from the Club hut. It is 
the /^/?-hand one of two depressions. 

The rather limited view from the 
Col itself may be greatly extended by 



ROUTE I. VALLOUISE TO MONETIER 



mounting in J hr. by snow slopes and | 
a rock ridge past a first summit to the 
highest point of the Pic de Neige 
Cerdier, which is one of the best 
view-points in the Dauphine Alps.. 
No one crossing the pass in fine 
weather should neglect to make this 
slight detour. 

On the other side of the pass the 
Agneaux glacier descends rather 
steeply towards the infant Romanche. | 
But there is no real difficulty, as a 
rule, in passing this glacier, the lower 
portion of which is avoided by easy 
rocks on its right bank. In this way the 1 
level of the Lower Plate des Agneaux j 
glacier (see Rte. C. 5) is attained in 
2 hrs. or so from the pass, and thence 
the route of the Col de la Casse 
Deserte (Rte. C. 5) followed to the 
mountain inn at Alpe ( 1 \ hr. ) 6 \ hrs. 
thus suffice for this pass, which, 
though high, is one of the easiest in ! 
the district. 



Route I. 

VALLOUISE TO MONETIER. 

In this Rte. we have to consider 
the S.E. half of the great spur running 
eastwards from the Roche Faurio. 
None of the three passes to be noticed ! 
offers any real difficulties, the third, 
indeed, being traversed by a mule 
path, and being the usual way from j 
Vallouise to the Guisane valley. 
Mountaineers are strongly recom- 
mended to select the Col Tuckett, ! 
combining it with the ascent of the j 
Montagne des Agneaux, a most splen- 
did belvedere. 

1. By the Col Tuckett.— From the 
Tuckett Club hut a great hump of ! 
moraine on the N.E. is gained in I 
f hr. Leaving on the right the way 
to the Col Jean Gauthier (practically 
a variation of our pass), it is then 
necessary to climb up the E. slope of 
the steep but good rocks which sup- I 



port on the E. the glacier flowing 
from our pass. The icefall is thus 
turned, and then the easy upper snow 
slopes give access to the pass, 3,500m., 
11,483 ft. (3jhrs. from the Club hut), 
which is a rocky ridge, and was first 
traversed in 1879 by Messrs. F. 
Gardiner and L. Pilkington. 

fit is close under the Montagne des 
Agneaux (3,660 m. , 12,008 ft. ) on the 
N. W. , and this summit can be attained 
in J hr. from the pass by its rocky N. E. 
face. It commands a most extensive 
and magnificent view, which includes 
Mont Blanc and Monte Rosa, with 
Villard d'Arene, and Monetier, as 
well as Puy St. Vincent, near Val- 
louise. It was first climbed in 1873 
by Mr. Coolidge, who took 5f hrs. 
from the Alpe chalets, by way of the 
Arsine glacier, and a great W. but- 
tress of the N. ridge, two lower sum- 
mits being traversed. This route 
might well be reversed — 3J hrs. — by 
a mountaineer who is bound from the 
Club hut to Alpe. J 

The descent is simple and straight- 
forward. It is best to pass to the 
right of a rocky promontory in the 
Monetier glacier, which is quitted in 1 
hr. on its left bank. Thence the Tabuc 
glen is followed, at first on its left, 
then on its right, side to Monetier, 
which is reached in 3J hrs. from the 
pass. The whole expedition is one 
of the pieasantest and most delightful 
in the district. 

2. By the Col de Segaret For an. 
— This is a dull and tiresome pass on 
the whole, but enables the traveller to 
gain some idea of the considerable 
Seguret Foran snow-fields, from the 
highest point of which there is an 
interesting view. 

The start is made from the Cezanjie 
Club hut, 3^ hrs. from Vallouise, on the 
Pre de Madame Carle (Rte. D. 1 ). The 
path back towards Vallouise must be 
followed for a few minutes till the 
stream is crossed, and then a most 
wearisome and fatiguing climb up the 
shifting stones, and debris, in the long 
and rather steep Rif ravine, which 
ends in a snow gully, leads up to the 



i66 



DAUPHINE ALPS. § 9. 



PELVOUX DISTRICT 



pass, 3,336 m., 10,945 ft. (5 hrs. 
from the Club hut), on which there is 
a small glacier lake. The French 
Government map is wrong in these 
regions, so that the most recent edition 
of M. Duhamel's maps should be 
carefully studied, as there are several 
ravines, and none is better than the Rif. 

[The pass is level with the snows 
of the great Seguret Foran glacier, 
and from the Col 40 min. suffice to 
mount gently by snow slopes on the 
S.E. over the Pic du Rif (3,480 m., 
11,418 ft.) to the Pic des Areas 
(3,486 m., 11,438 ft.), the culminat- 
ing point of the group. It was first 
reached in 1878 by Messrs. F. Gar- 
diner, and C. and L. Pilkington, and 
commands an unexpectedly wide 
view, which ranges from the Dia- 
blerets to the Maritime Alps. The 
Pelvoux, opposite, is especially fine.] 

By bearing across the Seguret 
Foran glacier in a S.E. direction it 
is perfectly easy to cross the Breche 
Gardiner (N.E. and 20 min. distant 
is the Pic Gardiner, 3,400 m., 
11,155 ft., which forms a glorious 
sight from near Monetier), and so 
gain the path over the Col de 
1'Eychauda (see below). But if 
bound for Monetier direct the tra- 
veller should bear far to the JV.E., 
and descend by the right bank of 
the Eychanda glacier to the famous 
glacier lake of Eychauda at its foot 
(i-| hr. from the pass). Hence 
Monetier is reached by descend- 
ing the ravine to the green plain 
on the Col de 1'Eychauda track, or 
else by crossing the ridge N. of 
the lake to the Tabuc glen, in order 
to join the route from the Col 
Tuckett. 

3. By the Col de 1'Eycfrauda. — 
This Col is by far the easiest and 
shortest way from Vallouise to any 
point on the Lautaret road, and is 
traversed by a fair mule path. There 
is a char road (3 m.) from Ville 
Vallouise up the main valley as far as 
the hamlet of Les Claux (f hr. ), at the 
foot of the marvellous precipices of 
the Pelvoux. The mule track then 



mounts due N. to a green plain, at 
the further end of which are the 
Chambran huts ( 1 \ hr. ) On the 
way up the botanist may gather 
Eryngium alpinum. The ascent 
continues steeply in a slightly N.E. 
direction, keeping to the right of some 
precipitous rocks that appear to bar 
the passage. Above this step the 
traveller reaches a marshy basin, at 
the N.E. end of which is the pass 
(2,429 m., 7,970 ft.), \\ hr. from 
Chambran, or 3J hrs. from Val- 
louise. It is at the S.W. foot of the 
Croix de la Cucumelle (2,703 m., 
8,868 ft. ), which may be easily reached 
hence, and commands a fine view. 

Now that there is an inn at Aile- 
froide it may be useful to note that 
from that spot there is a rough track 
which winds round the flank of the 
Peyron des Clanx to a point above 
the first huts on the green plain 
described above. 

[From the marshy plain several 
low and easy passes lead over in 
about 3 hrs. to various villages not far 
from Briancon.J 

The mule path runs down the Cor- 
varia glen, and by forests and 
meadows gradually descends to the 
Guisane^ which is crossed just before 
entering Monetier (1 hr. from the 
Col). 



Route K. 

VALLOUISE TO THE VALGAUDEMAR. 

The Valgaudemar forms, as has 
already been stated, the natural con- 
tinuation to the W. of the W. branch 
of the Vallouise, and is therefore 
reached by passes through the latter. 
The Col du Sellar, indeed, at the 
extreme W. head of the Bans glen, 
or W. branch of the Vallouise, is a 
gateway which has been long known 
to the natives, though it would appear 
that the first foreign traveller to cross 



ROUTE K. VALLOUISE TO THE VALGAUDEMAR 167 



it was the late Principal Forbes, in 
1 84 1. A more recently discovered 
route leads more to the S. over the 
Col du Loup du Valgaudemar, which 
has the advantage of enabling a 
traveller to see something of the very 
interesting and little known Bonvoisin 
group. 

1. By the Col du Sellar.— On 
leaving Ville Vallouise the hamlet of 
Villard is passed, and then the new 
military road followed along the left 
bank of the Bans torrent up a stony 
glen, which occasionally becomes pictu- 
resque, with views of the high peaks 
at its head, and the Col always 
visible. In about 2 hrs. the chalets 
of Entraigues (1,610 m. , 5,282 ft.) 
are attained. They stand at the 
junction, with the main valley of the 
Selle glen on the S.W., through 
which, besides the Col to be described 
under 2, other passes lead over to the 
head of the Drac valley, and to the 
Fournel glen (Rte. L. a). These 
huts afford the best night quarters in 
the Bans glen, particularly for the 
ascent of Les Bans, or of any of the 
peaks on the Bceufs Rouges range, 
which separates this glen from that 
of Celse Niere on the N. (Rte. D. 4. ) 
The main valley is mounted from 
Entraigues, always along the left bank 
of the torrent, to a small plain at the 
foot of the Sellar glacier ( I \ hr. ) 

[Here parts off the route to the 
Col de la Pilatte, to La Berarde, as 
well as that for the ascent of Les 
Bans (3,651 m., 11,979 ft.) by its 
S. arete, a climb which takes about 
6 hrs. from the Bans glacier — see 
Rte. D. 4.3 

From this little plain it is possible 
to mount by the precipitous granitic 
rocks, seamed with veins of green 
felspar, on the left bank of the glacier 
to its upper basin, but it is generally 
better to climb those on the right 
bank, and then to cut up the not very 
difficult seracs, or cross under them, 
and climb the rocks on the left bank. 
Either way requires about hrs., 
and then f- hr. more suffices to gain 
the shattered granite ridge of the 



pass (3,067 m., 10,063 ft-)» at tne 
extreme N.W. or S.W. comers of 
the glacier (6J hrs. from Vallouise). 

I [The view is mainly confined to the 
two valleys on either side of the pass, 
but may be much extended by ascend- 
ing the Pic des Aupillous (3,506 m., 

I 11, 503 ft. ), on the N. , in about 3 hrs. , 

J either by following from the upper 
plateau of the Aupillous glacier the 

: S. arete, or a spur till it joins that 
arete, or (easier) by the great snow 
couloir in the S.W. face, starting 
from the lower plateau of the same 
glacier. The very grand Pic Bon- 
voisin (3,560 m., 11,680 ft.), on the 
S. of the Col, has hitherto been only 
reached from the S. (see 2. below). J 
A rocky barrier leads from the 
pass to the upper plateau of the 
Aupillous glacier, and a second but 
shorter one to the lower plateau. 
The glacier is quitted in \ hr. on its 
right bank, and 1 hr. more down 
stones and pastures suffices to gain 
the edge of the rock wall overlooking 
the Vallonpierre glen, down which 
a track leads, the highest hamlet in 
the Valgaudemar, Le Clot, being 
reached in about 2 hrs. from the 
pass. Thence it is nearly 2 hrs. more 
down that valley (Rte. E. 3) to the 
principal valley, La Chapelle. There 
is no real difficulty in this pass, which 
is, however, rather long and mono- 
tonous. 

2. By the Col du Loup du Valgaude- 
mar. — This is a rarely traversed pass, 
and is rather longer than the Col du 
Sellar, but leads through a very 
curious and remarkable region, first 
explored by Messrs. F. Gardiner and 

I L. Pilkington, in 1879. From 
Entraigues the left side of the Selle 
glen is mounted by the new military 
road to a shepherd's hut [t\ hr. ) 
Here the way to the Drac valley 

■ and the Fournel glen (Rte. L. a) 

I is left, and a glen opening just W. 

I of the hut ascended. A rocky 
barrier leads up to a glacier, at the 
extreme N. W. corner of which is the 
pass (3,112 m. , 10,210 ft.), about 

1 4 hrs. from the hut, or 7 \ hrs. from 



1 68 DAUPHINE ALPS. § 9. PELVOUX DISTRICT 



Vallouise. Care should be taken to 
strike the ridge N. of the lowest de- 
pression, the great snow corniche 
which defends the pass being turned 
on the N. 

[From the glacier just below the 
pass on the W. side the Pic B021- 
voisin (3,560 m., 11.6S0 ft.) may be 
climbed in 2§ hrs. by ascending a 
steep buttress of reddish rock, which 
divides the two arms of the Bonvoisin 
glacier S. of the peak, and then by 
that glacier and the great couloir in 
the rocks of the S. face of the peak. 
It commands a very extensive view, 
which includes even the tip of the 
spire of the church at Vallouise. The 
Pic Jocelme ( 3, 507 m. ,11, 506 ft. ), W. 
of the Bonvoisin, may be gained from 
the Bonvoisin glacier by the snowy 
S. shoulder of the peak, overlooking 
that glacier, while it is easy to 
descend thence direct to Le Clot by 
the S. face of the great W. arete. J 

The glacier on the W. side of the 
pass is quitted in 20 min. after de- 
scending a rocky barrier on the 
•right where the ice stream narrows, 
and then stones and stony pastures 
lead down to a stony basin in f hr. 
more. 

[Here on the S. is seen the ere- 
vassed glacier flowing from the Col de 
Verdantie^ which gives access to the 
head of the Drac valley. The main 
interest of the pass, accessible in 
3 hrs. from the stony basin, is that 
from it the striking summit of the 
Pic de Verdonne (3, 324 m. , 10,906 ft. >, 
on its N. E. , may be climbed in 1 hr. 
by the S.W. arete and N.W. face. 
From it, as from the Bonvoisin, the 
view of Sirac, to the S.W., is very 
grand. 3 

Le Clot is reached in if- if hr. 
from the stony basin, either by always 
following the right bank of the stream 
or by crossing to its left bank, and 
then joining the track from the Col 
de Vallonpierre (Rte. M. 1), which 
crosses by a stone bridge to the right 
bank, 20 min. before entering Le 
Clot. 



Route L. 

VALLOUISE TO GAP OR EMBRUN BY 
CKAMPOLEON OR ORCIERES. 

In the preceding Routes we have 
described the passes leading from 
the Vallouise in many directions, and 
must now complete this description by 
a notice of a very rarely visited district, 
through which it is easy to go in two 
or three days to Gap or to Embrun by 
the head waters of the Drac. Roughly 
speaking this region lies between the 
Valgaudemar on the N. and the 
railway from Briancon to Gap on the 
E. and S. Its highest summits are 
the Pic Felix Neff (3,222 m., 10,571 
ft.), and the Tete de Vautisse 
(3,162 m., 10,375 ft.), in the Freissi- 
\ nieres or Biaisse valley. A traveller 
I who relishes rambles in unfrequented 
parts of the Alps will find much to 
j interest him there, while with a 
; single exception (the Col de Rognons, 
j between the Freissinieres and the 
j upper Drac valleys) the passes offer 
i no difficulties, though they are stony 
! (mainly Eocene rocks), as is the 
; district in general. It is most con- 
j venient to describe first the direct 
route from Vallouise to Gap, and then 
i the various other ways by which from 
Orcieres the valley of the Durance 
can be gained at or near Embrun. 

A glance at the map will show 
that S. of and parallel to the 
Vallouise there are tw r o glens, those 
of Fottrnel and Freissinieres, which 
pour, their waters into the Durance, 
and at their head abut on the water- 
shed between the Durance and the 
Drac. The former leads to Cham- 
poleon, the latter to Orcieres, both 
these places being connected with 
Gap by a char road. 

(a) By the Foumel glen and 
Champoleon. — The Fournel glen 
joins the Durance valley at Z? Argen- 
tine (for the silver mines, see 
Rte. Q), there being in its lower 
portion several fine earth pillars 
(' colonnes coiffees '). But if starting 
from Vallouise it is most convenient 



ROUTE L. 



VALLOUISE 



TO GAP OR EMBRUN 



169 



either to cross the grassy Col de la 
Pousterle in 2| hrs. to Champ 
Disdier, near the E. end of the 
Fournel glen, or (better and more 
direct) to reach its head by a higher 
pass. This is the Col du Haut 
Martin, over which and the Pas de 
la Cavale a military road from 
Vallouise to Champoleon was con- 
structed in 1897. To reach it the route 
up the Bans glen towards the Col du 
Sellar(Rte. K. 1 ) must be followed as 
far as the chalets of Entraigues (2 hrs. 
from Vallouise). It is then necessary 
io mount to the S.W. up the Selle 
glen, at the extreme S. head of which 
is the pass (3 J hrs. from Entraigues), 
which (it must be carefully borne in 
mind) leads over to the head of the 
Fournel glen, and not direct to the 
head of the Drac valley. 

[The latter can be reached direct 
either by bearing S.W. from the 
head of the Selle glen to the Col 
des Bouchiers, a rough, stony pass 
just N.W. of the Pic de la Cavale 
(2,897 m. , 9,505 ft.), or by mount- 
ing W. from the shepherd's hut in 
the Selle glen up a side glen, and 
by a rocky ridge in the midst of a 
erevassed glacier to the Col du Loup 
du Val Champoleon, a high, but not 
difficult, glacier pass. It may be 
noted as a topographical curiosity 
that these two passes alone give ac- 
cess direct from Vallouise to the head 
waters of the Drac. J 

A short descent towards the Fournel 
glen is followed by a traverse in a 
S.W. direction to a second pass, the 
Fas de la Cavale, c. 2,740 m. , 8,990 ft. 
(| hr. ), which properly leads from 
L'Argentiere to Champoleon. On the 
other side zigzags lead down in \ hr. 
to the Rognons glen, at the N. foot 
of the difficult pass of that name, 
and in another J hr. to the junction of 
another glen, that of La Pierre, at 
the N. E. corner of which is the afore- 
mentioned Col du Loup du Val 
Champoleon, while at its N. end is 
the Col de Verdonne (Rte. K. 2), lead- 
ing to Le Clot en Valgaudemar. The 
torrents from these two glens form 



the longest of the streams which go 
to make up the Drac, and conse- 
quently rank as the Sources of that 
river, the scenery being most wild 
and savage. It is a dreary walk down 
the narrow and stony glen past two 
sets of chalets ( Chaumeille and Chau- 
meillon) to the first hamlet, Les Au- 
berts (1 hr.), in a most desolate and 
forbidding situation at the mouth of 
the Issora glen, through which the 
Col de Vallonpierre (Rte. M. 1) leans 
to Le Clot en Valgaudemar. It is 
about 1 1 hr. more to the chief hamlet 
in the Champoleon valley, Les Borels 
(1,268 m., 4,160 ft.) 

The Champoleon valley is very 
wide, though short, while the villages 
scattered along the banks of the 
infant Drac, the trees, and the 
savage rocks of the Parieres group 
overhead remind one of Switzer- 
land rather than of the bare and 
waterless ridges round Gap, or even 
round Orcieres. (For the passes from 
Les Borels to the Valgaudemar, as 
well as for the ascent of the various 
peaks of the Chaillol and Parieres 
groups to the N. , see next Rte. ) 

A char road leads down the Cham- 
poleon valley along the left bank of 
the Drac to its junction (4 m. ) with 
the Drac d' Orcieres (see 2, below), 
and then turns W. with the united 
streams. It is 12 m. thence to St. 
Bonnet, between Gap and Corps (see 
Rte. P). but the traveller bound for Gap 
direct should take another road which 
crosses the low Col de Manse, E. of 
and parallel to the Col Bayard from 
Gap to St. Bonnet, Gap being thus 
15 m. from the junction of the two 
main branches of the Drac. 

(b) By the Freissinieres Glen and 
Orcieres, — This route will take a day 
and a half, but is much more inte- 
resting than that just described, though 
less direct. 

The valley of Freissinieres may be 
most easily reached from Vallouise 
by driving round by L'Argentiere and 
Roche de Rame, the first hamlet, 
Pallon, being gained in about f hr.'s. 
drive from the latter station by a long 



i "70 



DAUPHINE ALPS. § 9. 



PELVOUX DISTRICT 



ascent across a strange ochre -coloured 
slope of disintegrated rock. Thence 
a drive of J hr. along the left bank 
of the Biaisse through the nearly level 
and fertile valley brings the traveller 
to the principal hamlet, Les Ribes, of 
the commune of Freissinieres. A 
more interesting, though rather longer, 
route from Vallouise to Les Ribes is 
to cross the Col de la Ponsterle (see a. 
above) to the Fournel glen (2 J hrs. ), 
and then a second grassy pass, the 
Col des Lanzes (c. 2,000 m., 6,562 
ft.), by which Freissinieres is attained 
in 3 \ hrs. more. 

[S.W. of Les Ribes is the Tete de 
Vautisse (3,162 m., 10,375 ft.), the 
second summit of the district. It 
may be ascended from Les Ribes in 
7^ hrs. by a long, though not difficult, 
route by the Bois de Monsieur, the 
Sellar glen, and the S.W. arete. 
The view includes a very unknown 
district. Probably a shorter way up 
the peak would be from Dormillouse, 
whence the Col de Conleau can be 
gained in 3 J hrs. , and then a traverse 
should be made to the gap S.W. of 
the summit, where the above route 
would be regained.)] 

Les Ribes is prettily situated 
amidst trees. A good -| hr. up the 
valley is the hamlet of Les Viollins, 
with the Waldensian chapel. For 
this valley till of recent years was in- 
habited mainly by a French branch of 
the Piedmontese Waldensians, among 
whom Felix Neff laboured (his resi- 
dence was at La Chalp, in a side glen 
of the Queyras valley — § 6. Rte. C) 
till his death in 1829 at the early age 
of 29. 20 min. further is Les 
Mansals, and then commences a 
steep zigzag ascent (' Le Tourniquet') 
along the N. slope of the valley by 
which, in 1^ hr. more, the last 
hamlet, Dormillouse ( 1,419 m., 4,656 
ft.), is attained. It is at the junction 
of the Ruffy glen, through which the 
Col des Terres Blanches ' (2,728 m., 
8,950 ft.) leads in 7 hrs. to Orcieres, 
and the Col de Couleau (2,838 m., 
9,311 ft.) in 6f hrs. to St. Clement, 
in the Durance valley, 3 m. by rail 



below Montdauphin, and 7 m. above 
Embrun. 

Dormillouse is one of the most 
wretched and miserable hamlets to be 
found in the Alps, and of recent 
years most of its inhabitants have 
been removed to Algeria. To moun- 
taineers it is of importance, as from it 
the highest and third peaks in the 
district can be ascended. The Pic 
Felix Neff (3,222 m., 10,571 ft.) is 
the loftiest point in the range on the 
N. of the village, which divides the 
Freissinieres glen from that of 
Fournel. It was first climbed in 
1880 by Messrs. Coolidge and 
Gardiner, who took 4 J hrs. from 
Dormillouse by way of the Boudous 
ravine, and a great buttress, descend- 
ing from a snowy point on the ridge 
somewhat W. of the true summit. 
The ascent is a very stony one, but 
the view is very striking and quaint, 
Briancon being seen, as well as many 
little-known ranges, S.W. of Dor- 
millouse is the Grand Pinier (3,120 
m. , 10,237 ft.), the ascent of which 
in 3 1 hrs. is very easy by way of the 
Palluel lake and the S.E. arete, 
while the descent over the C haulier 
glacier on its N. face to the Col 
d'Orcieres track takes very little 
more than one hour, so that even if 
the start be made from Les Ribes it 
is not a very long day to take the 
peak on the way over the pass to 
Orcieres. 

From Dormillouse the track to the 
Col d'Orcieres, 2,700 m., 8,859 ft. 
(called Col de Prelles on the French 
map), at the head of the Biaisse valley, 
passes through wild and rocky scenery, 
and traverses the torrent twice. It is 
about 2J-3 hrs. from the village to 
the pass. Care should be taken at 
the last to bear 5. W., as at the N.W. 
corner of the glen is the Col de 
Rognons, whence there is a difficult 
descent to the sources of the Drac. 

On the other side a nearly due S. 
course should be taken past the large 
Est oris lake over stones and pastures. 
I (A tempting glen on the E. must be 
I carefully avoided, as it ends in a 



ROUTE L. VALLOUISE 



TO GAP OR EMBRUN 171 



precipice over Prapic. ) 2 hrs. or less 
suffice for the descent to Orcieres, 
a considerable village at a height of 
1,350 m., 4,429 ft., and distant 4111. 
by char road from the opening of the 
Val Champoleon (see above), and 
19 m. from Gap by the Col de 
Manse. 

It is at the junction of the Archinard 
glen with the main valley of the 
Drac d* Orcieres. The latter stream 
is formed by two torrents which unite 
at the hamlet of Prapic, 1 hr. above 
Orcieres. The more northerly flows 
from the Grand Pinier, while the 
principal or southerly descends from 
a little known glen in which there is 
a fine waterfall, the Saut du Ldire-. 
At the N. E. corner of the last-named 
glen is the Col des Terres Blanches, 
giving access to Dormillouse, while 
at its S.W. corner is the view-point 
of the Mourre Froid (2,996 m. , 
9,830 ft.), accessible from Orcieres in 
about 6 hrs. by its W. or E. ridge. 
At the E. head of this glen, some 
way N. E. of the Mourre Froid, is the 
Col des Tourettes (2,580 m. , 8,465 
ft. ), so called from some singular 
limestone pillars on the summit ridge. 
It may be gained in i| hr. from the 
Saut, which is rather over 2 hrs-. 
from Orcieres ; while in 3 hrs. more 
from the Col the descent can be 
effected through the Rubious glen 
(wherein there are several earth 
pillars of friable limestone) to Chateau- 
roux, in the Durance valley, a station 
on the railway (Rte. Q), 4 m. 
below Embrun. 

There is another, but longer (7 hrs, ), 
way from Orcieres to Embrun through 
the Archinard glen, and then over the 
Col de Reallon (2,519 m., 8,265 ft. ) to 
the hamlet of Reallon, and thence by 
Puy St. Eusebe in a S.E. direction 
over the mountain slopes. Reallon 
is connected by the Col de la 
Coupa (2,331 m., 7,648 ft.) with 
Ancelle (7 hrs. from Ancelle to 
Embrun), which is 10 m. by road 
from St. Bonnet. But the region be- 
tween Orcieres, Ancelle, and Reallon 
is very little known to foreign 



travellers, and authentic information 
as regards it is much desired. 



Route M. 

VALGAUDEMAR TO CHAMPOLEON. 

Due S. of the Valgaudemar, on the 
other side of a tolerably high ridge, 
is the valley of Champoleon, where 
different small streams unite to form 
the Brae, a very considerable river, 
which flows past St. Bonnet, Corps, 
and La Mure before joining the 
Isere at Grenoble ; the longest of 
the torrents which form this river 
is that which flows S.W. from the 
foot of Sitae (3,438 m., 11,280 ft.), 
the principal summit in the ranges 
that enclose the Drac. Hence there 
are a number of passes by which it is 
possible to go from one valley to 
the other. Four in particular may be 
briefly noticed here, as with three 
of these one of the chief peaks 
in the range between the two valleys 
may be climbed on the way. They 
are described for the sake of con- 
venience in order from E. to W., the 
first and second named being specially 
recommended to the attention of 
mountaineers. 

i. By the Col de Vallonpierre. — ■ 
This pass starts from Le Clot en Val- 
gaudemar, which is about 2 hrs.' 
walk up the valley from the principal 
hamlet, La Chape lie en Valgaudemar 
(see Rtes. E. 3. and K, above). Fcr 
the first f hr. or so the track is the 
same as for the Col du Loup du 
Valgaudemar, leading to the Vallouise 
(Rte. K. 2) up the glen which opens 
just S. of Le Clot. An ascent due S. 
by pastures leads to the muddy Val- 
lonpierre lake (if- hr. ), whence the 
right bank of the torrent is followed 
to a shale hollow from which a steep 
ascent leads to the shale ridge of the 
pass, 2,620 m., 8,596 ft. (| hr., or 
less than 3 hrs. from Le Clot). 



172 DAUPHINE ALPS. § 9. 



PELVOUX DISTRICT 



[[To effect the ascent of Sirae 
(3,438 m., 11,280 ft.), which rises E. 
of the Col, it is necessary to gain the 
glacier at its W. foot either from the 
plain near the Vallonpierre lake by 
the left side of the steep tongue of ice 
coming from that glacier, or from the 
Col itself by following the ridge to 
the E. to a cairn, whence rocks give 
access to the glacier. At the N.E. 
corner of this glacier there is a broad 
snow couloir, by which, or the steep 
rocks on its left bank, the main S.W. 
arete of the peak is attained, and its 
E. slope mounted by a curious path 
made by chamois to the summit. 4J- 
hrs. should be allowed from near the 
lake, or an hour less if coming from 
the Col. The view is extremely in- 
teresting as including a region very 
rarely visited by travellers hitherto. 
The first ascent of Sirac was made by 
Mr. Coolidge in 1877.3 

A rough, but easy, descent leads 
in less than 2 hrs. from the Col down 
the left bank of the torrent in the 
wild Issora gorge to Les Auberts in 
the main Drac valley (Rte. L. a), 
whence it is a rather dreary walk of 
hr. down the narrow glen to the 
opening of the wide pasture basin of 
Cha/upo/eon, the inn being at the 
hamlet of Les Borels. 

2. By the Col de Parieres. — Im- 
mediately S. of La Chapelle en 
Valgaudemar is the pasture glen of 
Navettes, the torrent from which 
flows at the end through a deep 
gorge, so that a steep ascent of \ hr. 
above its left bank is required to gain 
the upper level of the glen. At its 
head is the snow-streaked range of 
Chaillol. The Col de Parieres and 
the three other passes to be described 
all start from this glen. Half an hour 
further is the hamlet of Navettes, and 
here our route bears E. up one or 
other bank of the Tempier torrent to 
the Lauplat pastures at the head of 
that ravine. The pass is then easily 
reached by the torrent flowing from 
the Parieres glacier, and that glacier 
itself. It is c. 2,900 m. (9.515 ft.), 
and may be gained in 5 hrs. from La 



Chapelle. The French map is very 
defective in this region, the older 
one of Bourcet being far preferable. 

£Just S. of the pass is the S. 
and highest summit (c. 3.050 m., 
j 0,007 ft-) of the Pic de Parieres, 
accessible without any difficulty in 
under J hr. from the Col and com- 
manding a very quaint view, espe- 
cially of the great lakes of Crupilloiize 
to the S.E. It was first climbed in 
1883 by Monsieur Edmond Bayard. 
Both La Chapelle and Les Borels are 
visible from the summit. J 

The way on the other side lies 
past the great lakes to the S. edge of 
the plateau whereon they rest, and 
thence there is a steep and rough 
descent, bearing gradually more and 
more to the right in order to gain the 
hamlet of Les Clots, in the Drac 
valley, f hr. above Les Borels, while 
there is another path which leads direct 
to Les Baumes, only -| hr. above Les 
Borels, which is thus about 3 \ hrs. 
from the pass. 

3. By the Col de Val Estrete 
(Estreche). — This is the easiest and 
most direct way from La Chapelle 
to Champoleon, but the pass itself is 
stony, and not very interesting. The 
track leaves the Navettes glen a little 
way beyond the hamlet of that name, 
and climbs steeply first up the 
Buchardet glen on the S.E., then by 
a great promontory between two 
ravines, and a crevassed neve. The 
pass is 2,620 m. (8,596 ft.), and may 
be reached in 5 hrs. from La Chapelle. 
Slippery shale slopes, honeycombed 
by ravines, lead down to the head ©f 
the Val Estrete (Etroit), and thence 
a rough track gives access in -J hr. 
more to Les Banmes, \ hr. above Les 
Borels , which is reached in this way in 
if hr. from the pass. The route on 
the N. side is rather intricate, and it 
is very easy to miss the right track in 
cloudy or stormy weather. 

4. By the Cols de Maneros and de 
Navettes. — These two passes are at 
the extreme head of the Navettes 
glen, and are only separated by the 
two conspicuous teeth, now known 



ROUTE M. VALGAUDEMAR TO CHAMPOLEON 173 



as the Jumeaux de Chaillol. The | 
maps are very erroneous in this part 
of the chain, and that by M. Moisson 
in the 1 3th volume of the - Annuaire 
de la Societe des Touristes du 
Dauphine' (1887) should be studied, 
though in the present work Mr. 
Coolidge's nomenclature (as given in 
the Climbers' Guide for the Dauphine 
Alps) is followed in preference to 
that of M. Moisson. 

For both passes the Navettes glen 
must be mounted to its head, where 
is the unexpectedly large Mancros 
glacier (4 hrs. ) The Col de Mancros 
to the S.E. is accessible by it in 
1 \ hr. , and from the pass either the 
snow dome of the Pic de Mo,ncros 
(3,075 m., 10,089 ft.), on the N.E. , 
or the E. and lower summit (3,090 m. , 
10,138 ft. )of the Jumeaux de Chaillol 
can be attained in \ hr. But the 
Col de Navettes, reached in tj hr. 
from the bifurcation by bearing S.W. 
up the glacier, and then climbing a 
steep slope of debris, is in some 
respects to be preferred to the Col de 
Mancros, as from it not only can the 
W. and higher (3,095 m., 10,155 ft-) 
summit of the Jumeaux de Chaillol 
be attained in 20 min. or so, but also 
both the highest points of the Chaillol 
group. Chaillol Cone (3,120 m. , 
10,237 ft.) is accessible in \ hr. by 
rounding its S. base to a notch just 
W. of the peak, and then cliriibing 
up the steep rocks of its S. face. The 
monarch of the group is Vieux 
Chaillol (3,163 m., 10,378 ft. ), further 
to the S.W. It is a very fine view- 
point, and is accessible without the 
slightest difficulty in \\ hr. from the 
little lake (marked 2,396 m. on 
the French map) on the S. side of 
the Col de Navettes (3 hrs. up from 
Les Borels). The last hour of the 
ascent lies up the broad stone-strewn 
S. ridge. The summit is also easily 
gained in 4 hrs. from Molines en 
Champsaur on the W. ; from the 
head of that glen ( Colombier) the Col 
de Londeniere leads over to the 
Navettes glen, and that Col may be 
gained in about 2 hrs. from Vieux 



Chaillol by traversing many ravines 
and stones from a great shoulder, 
gained in 20 min. from the S. arete 
of the peak. 

The routes from the two passes 
rejoin in a few minutes on the S. 
side. Stone slopes lead in about 
f hr. to the little lake just mentioned. 
It is possible to descend either direct 
to the Tourond huts (1 hr. ), or to 
make a round to the S. over pastures 
lately subjected to the process of 
' reboisement. ' Thence the path along 
the left bank of the torrent is fol- 
lowed till on reaching the Champo- 
leon basin the Drac must be crossed 
in order to attain Les Borels (2 J hrs. 
from either pass). 



Route N. 

GRENOBLE TO BOURG D'OISANS BY 
LA MURE. 

Railway (31 m.) or road (24 m.) to La 
Mure ; thence char road (28^ m.), tra- 
versed by diligences in 8^ hrs. (in- 
cluding halt for lunch.) 

The peaks and passes of the ridges 
at the W. extremity of the Pelvoux 
group are most easily reached through 
the valley of the Drac, though per- 
haps most frequently approached from 
those of the Romanche or of the 
Durance. The most convenient point 
in the Drac valley for exploring those 
regions is the small town of La Mure, 
which may be reached by two routes 
from Grenoble, and whence Bourg 
d'Oisans, in the Romanche valley 
(§ 8. Rte. A), may be gained by 
two others. 

1. By Rail. — From Grenoble the 
line towards Gap (Rte. Q) is followed 
as far as the station of St. Georges de 
Commiers (12 m. ) Here the La 
Mure branch turns off. This is an 
extremely picturesque and striking 
line, with many tunnels and viaducts. 
At several points it overhangs the 



174 DAUPHINE ALPS. § 9. PELVOUX DISTRICT 



valley of the Drac, at a great (depth 
below. The second station is that of 
La Motte les Bains (11 m. from St. 
Georges). This is a watering place 
at an elevation of 620 m. (2,034 ft.), 
frequented by rheumatic and scro- 
fulous patients. The Etablissement 
Thermal is in the old Chateau, dating 
in part from the fourteenth century, 
but rebuilt in 1844. It is said to be 
now very well fitted up, and has 
accommodation for 300 persons. At 
the foot of the hillock on which it 
stands is the only separate inn, the 
H. du Bois. The scenery of the 
neighbourhood of La Motte is agree- 
able, but scarcely equal to that of 
Uriage (§ 8. Rte. I) or of Allevard (§ 
8. Rte. F). For further details see 
Rte. 39 of Joanne's ' Alpes Dau- 
phinoises,' vol. i. 

More viaducts and tunnels lead to 
La Motte (TAveillans station (14 m. 
from St. Georges). This is the 
centre of the industrial enterprises 
connected with the anthracite mines, 
which are here worked on a large 
scale ; one of them is said to be the 
finest of the kind in the French Alps. 
The line here turns S.E. , and soon 
reaches the wide plain of the Mat hey - 
sine, gaining fine views of the Obiou, 
and of some of the other peaks of the 
Pelvoux group. At the S. end of 
this plain is La Mure (19 m. from 
St. Georges). 

2. By Road. — Vizille is reached 
from Grenoble ( 1 1 m. ) by railway to 
the station, and thence by steam 
tramway to the town (§ 8. Rte. A), 
or direct by road. Hence a steep 
ascent of 640 m. (2,100 ft.) in 5 m. 
leads to Laffrey (925 m. ,3,035 ft. ), at 
the N. end of the great plateau or 
valley of the Matheysine, mentioned 
under 1. This small village has a 
church built by the Templars, and is I 
famous in history as the spot where 
on March 7, 181 5, Napoleon, on his 
return from Elba, first met the royal 
troops. It stands on the highest part 
of the extensive plateau of the 
Matheysine, and is exposed to nearly 
all the winds. The view hence is 



very extensive, including a bit of 
Grenoble and of the Bauges moun- 
tains. Laffrey is on the shore of a 
large lake, 3 m. long, 800 yards wide, 
and two others are soon passed on 
the way over the plateau to La Mure, 
a distance of 8 m. La Mure is thus 
13 m. from Vizille by road. 

La Mure (873 m. , 2, 864 ft. ) is a town 
of 3,500 inhabitants in a very exposed 
situation, so that the climate is always 
cold, especially in winter. It is 
famous for the siege of 1580, when it 
long held out, until reduced to the 
last extremity, against the Duke of 
Mayenne and his large army. There 
are several factories here, and con- 
siderable trade in corn and cattle. 
Hence to Bonrg d'Oisans there are at 
least two routes. 

(a) By the Col d'Ornon. — There is 
a direct char road over this pass from 
La Mure. The new road descends 
from La Mure by long zigzags (the 
old road to the 1. is best for a pedes- 
trian, as it saves over 1 m. ), and 
crosses the Bonne, just below its 
junction with the Roisonne, by the 
Pont Haul (3m.) The road to Mens 
( 1 1 m. , Rte. P ) turns off j ust before this 
bridge, and that to Corps ( 16 m. ) and 
Gap (24 more) just after crossing it. 
The road to the Col d'Ornon winds 
at a great height above the Bonne 
along the channelled slopes which 
have eaten into vast deposits of gravel 
and detritus that at some period filled 
a great portion of the valley. The 
Bonne is crossed to the r. bank some 
distance before reaching Valbonnais 3 
a large village (8 m. from La Mure), 
picturesquely placed on a terrace 
above the Bonne. (Hence the Col 
de Plan Collet leads N.W. in \\ hr. 
to Oris, and in J hr. more to La 
Valette, see below. ) The road crosses 
the Bonne twice (under the second 
bridge is a fine waterfall) in order to 
reach the hamlet of Eiitraigues (3 
m. ), at the junction of the Bonne, 
flowing from the ValjoufTrey (see 
Rte. O), with the Malsanne, coming 
down from the Col d'Ornon. (From 
Entraigues easy grass passes lead S. 



ROUTE N. GRENOBLE TO BOURG D'OISANS BY LA MURE 175 



in i\ hrs. over to the pilgrimage 
place of La Salette, Rte. P.) The 
road to the Col d'Ornon now turns 
N, up the very wide glen of the 
Malsanne. Le Perier, the first 
hamlet (3 m.), is the most important 
of the three or four passed on the 
way to the Col d^Grnon, 1,360 m., 
4,462 ft. (9 m. from Entraigues\ 
a depression between grassy ridges on 
either side. Hence there is a view 
of the wild glen just traversed, while 
in front the much prettier one of the 
Lignari'e opens out before the spec- 
tator's eyes. The hamlet of Rivier 
is passed on the descent, and lower 
down the road winds round the base 
of the hillock on which is the village 
of Ornon, one hamlet of which — La 
Palud (4 m. from the Col) — is on 
the high road, (Hence Taillefer 
may be ascended. See § 8, Rte. A, 
under Sechilienne. ) There are a 
number of hamlets in this glen 
perched upon eminences in pictu- 
resque positions, overlooking the 
valley. From La Palud the road de- 
scends, steeply at last, into the valley 
of the Romanche (2| m. ), which 
is gained 2 m. below Bourg d'Oisans, 
at the La Patite-Ornon station, on the 
steam tramway from Vizille (§ 8. Rte, 

(b) By the Roisonne Glen. — This 
route is more attractive to pedestrians 
than the last, as thus it is possible to 
take the Taillefer on the way from 
La Mure to Bourg d'Oisans, an ex- 
cursion much recommended. It is 
advisable to sleep at Lavaldens, or, 
better still, at the little inn at La 
Morte. 

A char road leads from La Mure 
up this glen, passing La Valette, 6 
m. (hence to Valbonnais by the Col 
de Plan Collet in 3 hrs. ), and Laval- 
dens (3 m.), before attaining the ham- 
let of Moulin Vienx (12 m. from 
La Mure). Hence Taillefer (2,861 
m., 9,387 ft.) can be ascended direct, 
but it is better to go on to the inn at 
La Morte, 2 m. more (see § 8. Rte. 
A, under Sechilienne). Serpentine 
and crystalline rocks of varied com- 



position are found in the Roisonne 
glen, as well as metallic ores, which 
cannot be worked with advantage 
owing to the difficulty of access. At 
Moulin Vieux the Vaunoire glen 
opens out to the E., and through it, 
by keeping to the N.E., a pass called 
Clot Beaumont can be crossed to 
Rivier (3 hrs.), in the Lignarre valley 
(see a. above), 7 m. from Bourg 
d'Oisans. 



Route O. 

LA MURE TO THE VALGAUDEMAR 
BY THE VALJOUFFREY AND 
VALSENESTRE. 

The easiest way of reaching the 
Valgaudemar from La Mure is to 
follow the high road past (16 m. ) 
Corps (hence excursion in 6 m. by 
char road to the pilgrimage place of 
La Salette), and on for 1 1 m. to St. 
Firmin en Valgaudemar, at the 
entrance of the valley of which it is 
the chief village. (Nearly opposite 
are the ruins of the sixteenth-century 
castle of the famous Constable Les- 
diguieres. ) Hence there is a char 
road up the Valgaudemar to ( 10 m. ) 
La Chape lie en Valgaudemar, the 
most convenient centre in the valley 
for mountaineers, although the inn is 
not much to speak of. 

But mountaineers will prefer to 
gain La Chapelle by a more inte- 
resting route, through the valley of 
the Bonne or the Valjouifrey, whence 
there are at least two passes over to 
the valley of the Severaisse or the 
Valgaudemar. 

From La Mure the road to the Col 
d'Ornon (see last Rte. ) is followed as 
I far as Entraigues (11 m. ) The Bonne 
valley here bends S. E. , and a rough 
char road leads up it to the chief 
hamlet, La Chapelle en Valjouffrey 
(4 j- m. ), situated just at the junction 
of the Bonne with the Beranger tor- 



i;6 DAUPHINE ALPS. § 9. PELVOUX DISTRICT 



rent, flowing from the Yalsenestre on 
the N.E. 

[1 J hr. 's walk up the latter wild glen, 
yet but little known, brings the traveller 
in 3! m. to the chief hamlet, Valse- 
nestre (1,279 m -j 4 ? I96 ft.) Passes 
lead hence to the Veneon valley (see 
Rte. F), on the N., while to the S. 
Le Desert en Yaljouffrey may be 
gained either in 3! hrs. by the easy 
grass pass of the Col de Cote Belle 
or Col des Mamies (c. 2,300 m., 
7,546 ft. )— the view is much extended 
by climbing in 2 hrs. up the Aiguille 
des Marmes (3,057 m,, 10,030 ft.), 

on the E or in rather over 6 hrs. by 

the higher, though not difficult, pass of 
the Col d'Aillot(2,%'JS m., 9,433 ft.)J 

2 hrs. (4 J m.) higher up the 
Yaljouffrey, by a path mainly along 
the r. bank, is the last hamlet, that 
of Le De&ert enValjouifrey (1,285 m - j 
4,216 ft.) (On the way from La 
Chapelle a track leads S.E. from 
Les Clarets by the Col de Menoux to 
St. Maurice, in the Valgaudemar, 
about half-way between St. Firmin 
and La Chapelle en Valgaudemar.) 
Le Desert communicates with the 
Veneon valley by several passes which 
are described in Rte. F. The posi- 
tion of the village hardly justifies its 
name, though the upper portion of 
the Yaljouffrey beyond it is dreary 
enough. At Le Desert a choice may 
be made between two passes to the 
Valgaudemar. 

One is the Col de la Vaure (2,600 m. , 
8,531ft.). The track leads steeply 
up the 1. side of the Eckarenne 
ravine, which opens out into the 
Yaljouffrey just S.E. of Le Desert. 
A slope of shale at its head, followed 
by one of snow, brings the traveller 
to the top of the pass, whence the 
path goes down through the Peines 
glen to the hamlet of that name. 
Hence a steep mule path leads down 
to Villard Loubih'e (5 hrs.), in the 
Valgaudemar, 2^ m. below La 
Chapelle. From the Valgaudemar 
side of the pass the laborious and 
rather difficult ascent of the Pic des 
Souffles (3,099 m., 10,168 ft.) may 



I be made in 3J hrs. or so by way of 

\ the S. face and E. arete/ but the 

I rocks are very rotter. 

The other is the Col de Turbat 
(2,690 m., 8,826 ft.), at the very 
head _ of the Bonne valley. There is 
no difficulty in following this glen, 
which runs first N.E. to its junction 
with the Combe de la Pisse (for the 
passes to the Veneon valley see 
Rte. F), and then S.E. It becomes 
more and more stony and dreary, but 
the monotonous ascent is relieved by 
a very fine view of the glorious preci- 
pices of the Pic d'Olan (3,578 m., 

. 1 ! 5 739 which close the vallev. 

: The pass at the head of the valley is 
the Breche d'Olan, leading to St. 
Christophe by La Lavey (Rte. F. a). 
It is necessary at the end of the glen 
to turn due S., and mount nearly 

: straight, keeping a little to the W., 
to the Col de Turbat (5 hrs.) From 
the pass the view may be much ex- 
tended by climbing, in under an 
hour, the Pic de Turbat (3,031 m., 
9,945 ft.), on the W. The descent 
lies almost due S. through the C?ot 
glen (leaving to the 1. the old and 
difficult way up the Pic d'Olan— 
Rte. E. 3), which joins the Severaisse 
valley just opposite La Chapelle (2 
hrs. from the pass). 



Route P. 

CORPS TO GRENOBLE BY THE BE- 
VOLUY, THE VERCOR5, AND THE 
ROYAXXAIS. THE FRENCH DOLO- 
MITES. 

In the last Rte. mention was made 
of Corps as passed by the high road 
from La Mure to the Valgaudemar. 
It is the usual starting-point for the 
famous pilgrimage place of La Salette, 
distant 6 m. by a char road. It may 
; also be made the point of depar- 
! ture for a rapid journey through some 
i very curious and interesting country 



ROUTE P. CORPS TO GRENOBLE 



177 



on the way back to Grenoble. This 
region may be fitly called the ' French 
Dolomites, 5 for the limestone forma- 
tion is precisely similar to that of the 
better known Tyrolese Dolomites, 
while it should be remembered that 
the discoverer and namer of the 
latter, the Marquis de Dolomieu 
(1750-1801), lived at Dolomieu, 
which is only 5 m. from La Tour 
du Pin, on the line from Lyons to 
Grenoble, and just half-way from 
either of those places. 

A glance at the map will show that 
between the high road running from 
La Mure through Corps (16 m. ) over 
the Col Bayard to Gap (24 m. from 
Corps), and the railway (Rte. Q) which 
from Veynes junction (where the lines 
from Gap and Marseilles come to- 
gether) crosses the Col de la Croix 
Haute to Grenoble, there is a wild dis- 
trict called the Devoluy. The line just 
mentioned passes through the Trieves 
on the N. side of the Col de la Croix 
Haute, while to its W., between it 
and the branch line from Grenoble 
to Valence, there are two other re- 
gions, called the Vercors and the 
jRoyannais. The hills in these parts 
are of no great height, and the 
scenery is very wild and barren ; but 
some account of them must be given 
here, though hitherto they have, save 
the Royannais, been very little visited, 
even by French travellers. 

[Just S.W. of Corps rises the highest 
summit of the Devoluy, the Obiou 
(2,793 m -j 9> I0 4ft. )? which may behest 
climbed thence. It is most convenient 
to sleep at Pellafol, 4 m. from Corps by 
the char road leading to St. Etienne 
(see below). A path runs hence to the 
W., and by woods and pastures 
brings the traveller to the Vallon hut 
at the E. foot of the peak (2 \ hrs.), 
whence another mounts by zigzags 
over debris to the gap between the 
Grand and Petit Obiou ( 1 \ hr. ) The 
base of the peak is then skirted to its S. 
face, in which a little rock gully gives 
access to the vast stone-strewn plateau 
which forms the summit (i^hr., or 
5 hrs. from Pellafol). As the moun- 
r. 



tain occupies an isolated position the 
view is fine, though strikingly de- 
solate. 2 

From Corps a very hilly carriage 
road leads round the N. foot of the 
Obiou by Mens (14 m. ), famous in 
the French wars of religion, to Clelles 
(9 m. ), a station on the Veynes- 
Grenoble line of railway. But the 
enterprising traveller will prefer to 
gain that place by the Devoluy itself. 
This is a most barren, stony, and 
desolate valley which lies on the E. 
side of the Obiou, opening out nearly 
due S.W. of Corps. A char road 
leads up in 10 m. to St. Disdier en 
Devoluy, in a small green basin. The 
road continues S.W. to Agnieres, but 
a curious man should follow the bad 
char road S.E. from St. Disdier 
through the narrow and impressive 
gorge of the Souloise, amid scenes 
of the most utter desolation, to the 
chief village of the Devoluy, St. 
Etienne en Devoluy, 1,263 m -> 
4,144 ft. (4 m.), in a second green 
basin, a most refreshing sight after 
the dreary journey hither. It is a 
poor-looking hamlet, and one is 
tempted to wonder how any one 
originally settled there, and why the 
inhabitants stay there. By the Col 
du Noyer (1,654 m., 5,427 ft.), on 
the E. , a char road leads over to St. 
Bonnet (on the high road, 14 m. from 
Corps, and 10 m. from Gap). Our 
route lies, however, by another char 
road on the W., which brings one 
over the Col de Giers in 4 m, to 
the village of Agnieres (1,270 m.., 
4,167 ft.) j which is on the main high 
road from St. Disdier (4 m. off) by the 
Col d? Agnieres (1,438 m., 4,718 ft.) 
to Montmaur (9 m. from Agnieres), 
a station on the railway, 3J m. from 
Veynes, and 12J m. from Gap. 

[Hence the Pic de Bure (2,712 
m., 8,898 ft.), the highest point of 
the Aurouse group, may be climbed 
in 7 hrs. It is another of the savage 
summits of the Devoluy. J 

Agnieres is the best place whence to 
start for the Grand F errand (2,761 m., 
9,059 It.), on the N.W., the third of 

N 



i 7 8 



DAUPHINE ALPS. § 9. PELVOUX DISTRICT 



the chief summits of this wild region. 
It. may be reached thence in 4f hrs. 
by way of the hamlet of Maubourg, 
the Adroits glen, and the S.E. slopes. 
There is no difficulty, but amazing 
masses of sharp stones and rocks must 
be traversed. The view is less deso- 
late than that from the Obiou, as the 
Ferrand overhangs the green hollow 
of the Trieves. The first part of the 
descent is made by the same route, 
and then a traveller should bear S. in 
order to follow a rough sheep track to 
the Colde Charnier, 2, 180m., 7, 1 53 ft. 
('I \ hr. ) at the head of the Trabu'ech 
glen. A zigzag path thence leads 
round above the Ferrand lake to the 
point marked 1,762 m. on the French 
map, which overlooks the Trieves. 
This path goes in a N. direction to 
Treminis, in the Trieves, but another 
passes through forests, and gains the 
Granges des Forets in the Trabuech 
valley (a short hour from the Col de 
Charnier). A char road runs down 
this glen in 1 hr. to the village of 
Lus la Croix Haute (1^062 m., 
3,484 ft.), on the summit plateau of 
the Col de la Croix. Haute. Lus is a 
station on the Veynes-Grenoble line 
(Rte. Q), 24 m. from Veynes, which 
is 16 m. from Gap. 

The route towards the Vercors 
necessitates a descent in the train 
on the other side of the Col for 
9 m. to Clelles station (some way 
— 1 m. — from the village of the same 
name) (see Rte. Q). 

^Clelles is just at the E. foot of one 
of the most wonderful and extraordinary 
of the minor summits of the Alps, the 
Mont Aiguille (2,097 m., 6,880 ft.) 
In reality it consists of a sloping grassy 
meadow, supported by gigantic and 
nearly precipitous walls of rock. 
From Clelles it looks like a great 
wall, but from other points (e.g. from 
the N.W.) it resembles a paper-knife 
set on edge. It is separated from 
the great table-land of the Vercors 
on the W. (of which it once clearly 
formed part) by a great fissure of 
450 m. (1,476 ft.) in depth. This 
striking peak is further remarkable as 



having been scaled as far back as 
1492 by Julien de Beaupre, chamber- 
lain of Charles VIII. of France, by 
order of his master, and with many 
followers. The adventurers spent 
six days on the summit, which was 
not again attained till 1834. Now 
iron ropes have been placed in the 
hollows in the walls of the peak, and 
greatly facilitate the ascent, which is 
still, however, very curious and well 
worth making. The way from Clelles 
is to go in 1 hr. to the hamlet of 
La Richardiere, on its S., and then 
to mount to the base of the S.W. 
corner of the mountain ( 1 \ hr. ) The 
real climb now begins, and conducts 
the adventurer through several very 
strange fissures or caverns in the rock 
wall. The surprising meadow on the 
summit is attained in if- if hr. from 
the base, and in 10 min. more the 
iron cross on the highest point — in 
all about 4 hrs. from Clelles. The 
view down from this great block is 
most astonishing, while in the dis- 
tance the great Dauphine peaks, with 
Mont Blanc in the background, fill 
the spectator's eye. In 1894 the 
peak was scaled by the great N. 
wall. 3 

The best way from Clelles to the 
Vercors is over the Grand Veymont 
(2,346 m., 7,697 ft.), the culminating 
point of that district. It lies N.W. 
of the Mont Aiguille, and may be 
ascended with ease from Clelles by a 
mule path to Tresanne, and thence a 
foot path over a low pass to the hamlet 
of La Bdtie. The way now turns 
sharply to the S.W. in order to attain 
the Pas de la Fouille, at the S.W. 
foot of the final ridge, which is as- 
cended to the summit (5J-6 hrs. 
from Clelles). The most remarkable 
feature of the near view is the mar- 
vellous Mont Aiguille, which is looked 
down upon from a greater height 
On the E. side the Grand Veymont 
is a series of immense precipices and 
jagged limestone towers, quite like a 
Tyrolese Dolomite. The descent 
from the peak to the Pas de la Vilk^ 
at its N. foot, only takes \ hr. In 



ROUTE P. CORPS TO GRENOBLE 



179 



order to enjoy the very striking view 
of the E. wall of the peak it is worth 
while to go down in 1 hr. to the 
prettily situated village of Gresse 
(1,178 m., 3,865 ft.) But the direct 
route lies from the Pas de la Ville 
to the N.W., first to a great stone- 
strewn shelf or band, on which green 
islets, like oases in a desert, mark 
the position of the rare springs, and 
then through a thick forest (there 
are live bears in it) to the village 
of St. Agnan en Vercors (760 m., 
2,493 ft-)j 2 I~3 nrs - from the Pas de 
la Ville, and 2.\ m. by high road from 
La Chapelle en Vercors, the chief 
place of this strange region. 

La Chapelle is 4 m. by high road 
from the inns at the entrance to the 
remarkable gorges of the Grands 
Goulets. Hence the carriage road 
(traversed by diligences coming from 
Grenoble, taking 1 1\ hrs. , including 
halt for lunch, from that city to Pont 
en Royans) is carried on a narrow 
shelf above great precipices through 
these very striking limestone gorges, 
which, with their gigantic cliffs, and 
trees, are said to resemble on a small 
scale the famous canons of N. Ame- 
rica. The new road is splendidly 
engineered, and tunnels through the 
rock in several places. Lower down 
it descends into a green basin, filled 
with box trees, very uncommon in 
Alpine districts. A second set of 
gorges, the Petit s Goulets (not so 
grand as the others), is traversed 
before the traveller reaches the very 
picturesquely situated village (8 m. 
from the entrance to the Grands 
Goulets) of Pont en Eoyans, astride 
of the gorge of the Bourne. The 
houses rise tier above tier on the side 
of this gorge, with one narrow main 
street running through them, which 
in one place is on a level with the 
roof of the church below. Pont en 
Royans is 7 m. by high road from St. 
Hilaire-St. Nazaire station, and 
10 m. from St. Marcellin station, 
both on the railway line from Gre- 
noble to Valence. They are 7 m. 
apart, the former being 23 m. from 



Valence on the main P.L.M. line, 
the latter 32 m. from Grenoble. 

In order to see the whole of this 
interesting district, the traveller 
should, however, take another route 
to Grenoble, by Villard de Lans. 
This village may be gained from 
Pont en Royans by retracing our 
steps to the inns at the further end of 
the Grands Goulets (8 m. ), and then 
joining the route to be mentioned at 
the Pont de Goule Noire (9 m. ) 
It may be pleasanter to drive from 
Pont en Royans through the lower 
gorges of the Bourne (striking in their 
way, but perhaps not as fine as the 
Goulets) by La Bahne de Rencurel to 
the Pont de la Goule Noire (9m.), 
beyond which a picturesque winding 
road through the upper and finer 
gorges of the Bourne leads to Villard 
de Lans (5 m. ), which is thus 22 or 
14 m. from Pont en Royans. Villard 
lies in the centre of a high tableland, 
or fertile valley. Another set of 
limestone gorges, those of Engins, 
only less wonderful than the Grands 
Goulets, must be traversed (high road) 
before the traveller emerges into the 
Isere valley at Sassenage (14 m. ), 
4 m. from Grenoble, where civilisa- 
tion is welcome after a week's journey 
from Corps through a curiously wild, 
but very fascinating region. 

The whole route here indicated 
was made by the present Editor 
(W.A.B.C.) in 1881 and 1888, and 
is fully described in an article in the 
' Alpine Journal ' for February 1889, 
to which reference should be made. 



: i8o DAUPHINL ALPS. §9. 



PELVOUX DISTRICT 



Route Q. 

BRIANCON TO GRENOBLE BY GAP. 



M. 

LArgentiere-La Bessie . . 8 
La Roche de Rame . .12 
Montdauphin-Guillestre . . 17 
Embrun .... 27^ 
Prunieres .... 36^ 
Gap . . . . . 51 
Veynes . . . -* -67 
Lus la Croix Haute . . 91 
Clelles-Mens . . . 100 

St. Georges de Commiers . 124 
Grenoble . . . .136 



Railway throughout, traversed twice 
daily in 7^-8 hrs. 

In the first Rte. of this Chapter 
(§ 8. Rte. A) we described the 
pleasantest way from Grenoble to 
Briancon— that by the Col du Lau- 
taret. But there is another way 
between those places which is 
quicker, as it is traversed by a rail- 
way, which may be noticed here. 
Taken with the Col du Lautaret a 
complete circuit is thus made of the 
region described in the present Sec- 
tion. The line is an important one 
topographically, so that it is conve- 
nient for travellers coming either from 
the Queyras valley (§ 4. Rte. B) or 
from Barcelonnette (§ 3. Rte. A), 
not to speak of the fact that by it the 
journey from Briancon to Marseilles 
is very direct, though the trains are 
not fast, 10J-11J hrs. being required 
to cover 188 m. Veynes is the junc- 
tion for the South. 

The line runs from Briancon along 
the left bank of the Durance through 
a fertile valley, many villages being 
seen on the green slopes on the W. , 
while to the E. is the opening of the 
gorge leading to Cervieres (§ 6. Rte. 
C). The river is crossed before the 
station of Pre lies (3 m.). Soon after 
the line is carried through a succession 
of deep gorges, passing through many 
tunnels, and over a viaduct till it de- 
scends to cross the Gyronde^ flowing 
from Vallouise, and passes under and 



opposite the various fractions of La 
Bessee, on the other bank, so as to 
reach the station of V Argentiere- La 
Bessee (8 m). Here travellers leave 
the train if bound for the Vallouise 
(Rte. G) or the Fournel glen (Rte. 
L. a). L'Argentiere derives its name 
from the neighbouring silver-lead 
mines, worked in the twelfth century, 
and fitfully in the present century, 
while it has a fine fifteenth-century 
church, with remarkable frescoes on 
the wall of the sacristy. The next 
station (4 m. ), that of Roche de Rame^ 
is the starting point for the valley of 
Freissinieres (Rte. L. b). Rama was 
originally a Roman settlement, and 
was ruined in the thirteenth century 
by an inundation of the Durance, 
and abandoned by its inhabitants, 
though the mediaeval castle was not 
destroyed till 1768, a small chapel 
alone now marking the site of this 
unfortunate village. The inhabitants 
moved to La Roche, on the other 
bank of the Durance. The strange 
red rocks at the entrance of the 
Freissinieres glen will attract the notice 
of the traveller. The railway, which 
before Roche de Rame had crossed to 
the left bank of the Durance, runs 
over a stony plain with fine views of 
snowy summits of the Pelvoux and 
its neighbours, on the N.W. , while 
nearer at hand on the left is the pre- 
cipitous rock on which is built the 
fortress of Montda?tphin, below which 
is (5 m. from Roche de Rame) the 
station of Montdatipkin-Guillestre. 
Montdauphin is described in § 4. Rte. B. 

[For the many passes which lead 
from Guillestre and through the 
Queyras valley to the valleys of the 
Ubaye, the Varaita, the Po, the Pel- 
lice, the Germanasca, and the Dora 
Riparia, see § 3. Rte. B ; § 4. Rtes. 
A and B ; § 5. Rtes. A and D ; and 
§ 6. Rte. B-J 

Almost immediately after leaving 
the station the Durance is crossed 
to its right bank, which is followed 
as the valley bends gradually to 
the S.W. The openings of the 
Couleau and Rabious valleys on the 



ROUTE Q. BRIANCON TO GRENOBLE BY GAP 181 



left are passed, through which passes 
lead to Dormillouse and Orcieres 
(Rte. L), and whose torrents cause 
great damage in the Durance valley. 
io|m. from Montdauphin is the station 
of Embrun, a famous historical city. 
As Rburodunu m it was after the time 
of Diocletian the capital of the Roman 
province of the ' Alpes Maritime,' 
while it became a bishop's see as 
early as the middle of the fourth cen- 
tury, when the original cathedral 
was built by St. Marcellinus. The 
archbishop obtained extensive tempo- 
ral power by grant in 1147 from the 
Emperor Conrad III., and was one 
of the chief rulers of these regions. 
But the see was suppressed in 1791. 
The chief attraction of Embrun to-day 
is its splendid Cathedral Churchy the 
greater part of which dates from the 
end of the twelfth century, while the 
choir stalls are of the fifteenth cen- 
tury. Externally its principal feature 
is the striking N. porch, called the 
Real (Porta Regalis), as above the 
doorway there was formerly a cele- 
brated fourteenth-century fresco, re- 
presenting the Adoration of the Magi, 
which for many centuries drew hither 
hosts of pilgrims, but was mutilated 
by the Huguenots in 1585. Readers of 
Sir W alter Scott will recall the con- 
nection of Louis XI. with Embrun, 
and from his time the King of France 
was the senior canon, the archbishop 
being the second. The organ was 
given by Louis XI. , but its case was re- 
stored in the eighteenth century. Near 
the Cathedral is the twelfth-century 
Tour Brune, which forms part of the 
archiepiscopal palace, now used as 
Government buildings. The seven- 
teenth-century fortifications of the 
little city, which is mainly defended 
by the high rock on which it is built, 
were destroyed about 1882, when the 
railway was made. In 1585 Embrun 
was taken and sacked by the Hugue- 
nots under Lesdiguieres, and again 
taken by the Duke of Savoy in 1692. 
A number of Church councils have 
been held in Embrun, which is now 
a small town living on the memory of 



its former importance, but well deserv- 
ing the attention of the traveller in- 
terested in history or architecture. 
(For the routes to Barcelonnette and 
Orcieres see § 3. Rte. A, and Rte. 
L, end, above. ) 

The line continues on the right 
bank of the Durance, passing op- 
posite the Boscodon glen, in which 
the church of the great twelfth-cen- 
tury abbey of Boscodon (suppressed in 
the eighteenth century) still survives, 
and the village of Savines (5 m. ), 
opposite the opening of the Reallon 
ravine, and under the shadow of the 
strange and remarkable summit of the 
Morgon (2,336 m., 7,664 ft.), acces- 
sible from Savines in 5-6 hrs. 4 m. 
further is the station of Prunieres 
(for the way to Barcelonnette see § 3. 
Rte. A), where the line leaves the 
valley of the Durance, about 3 \ m. 
above its junction with the Ubaye. 
I The Durance valley is only regained 
by the railway to Marseilles at Sis- 
teron, 30 m. from Veynes, which is 
30.^ m. from Prunieres. 

On leaving Prunieres the line soon 
turns W. , and mounts steeply by several 
tunnels and a viaduct over mountain 
slopes scored by ravines torn by wild 
torrents to (4m.) Cliorges, the ancient 
capital of the Caturiges. Roman in- 
scriptions and remains have been 
found on the site of the old town, 
which was rather above the more 
modern village, and was destroyed in 
the eleventh century. 4 m. beyond, 
the line, passing through more level 
country, reaches the station of La 
Bdtie Neuve-le-Laus. Hence a road 
leads S.W. to the celebrated seven- 
teenth-century pilgrimage resort of 
Notre- Davie du Laus, where (as at 
La Salette two centuries later) a shep- 
herdess is said to have been favoured 
by a vision of the Blessed Virgin. 
The country becomes more and more 
smiling as the train nears (6 J m. ) 

Gap (742 m. , 2,434 ft. ), a small city 
of about 10,500 inhabitants, which is 
the capital of the Department of the 
Hautes Alpes. It was called Vapin- 
tum in Roman times, and was a 



DAUPHINE ALPS. § 9. 



PELVOUX DISTRICT 



station on the Roman road from Aries 
to Briancon, as well as a bishop's see 
from the sixth century, if not earlier. 
It suffered much during the Huguenot 
wars between 1562 and 1588, and at 
the hands of the Duke of Savoy in 
1692. Guillaume Farel, the Re- 
former, was born in 1489 in the 
neighbourhood, and preached his 
doctrines in Gap in 1522 and 1561, 
before and after he went to Switzer- 
land. The city has many narrow 
streets, and though part of Dauphine 
since 1232, has many characteristics 
of a Provencal town. Its thirteenth- 
century Cathedral, which had suffered 
greatly in consequence of the two wars 
mentioned above, was pulled down in 
1866 to give place to a new building. 
The fine seventeenth-century sarco- 
phagus of the famous Constable Les- 
diguieres was in 1836 removed from his 
castle at the entrance of the Valgau- 
demar (see Rte. O), and is now pre- 
served in the Prefecture at Gap. It 
is the sole object of interest in the city, 
save the city itself, which will give a 
very good idea of the South to those 
who do not know what it is like. 9 m. 
to the S. is the fine, though ruined, castle 
of Tallard y which was built between 
the fourteenth and early sixteenth cen- 
turies, but was burnt in the campaign 
of 1692. The fifteenth-century chapel 
is nearly intact, and forms the most 
interesting portion of the castle ; it 
is in the Flamboyant style, and was 
the burial place of the lords of Tallard. 
The lordship of Tallard is of special 
historical importance, since it was the 
last bit of Provence which was united 
(from 1232 onwards) to Dauphine, to 
which it was annexed in 1503, the 
limits of Provence and Dauphine 
being thus finally fixed. (For the 
routes from Gap to Champoleon and 
Orcieres see Rte. L, and for that over 
the Col Bayard in 24 m. to Corps, 
Rte. P, above. ) 

Beyond Gap the line climbs again, 
and passes over a splendid viaduct, 
52 m. (171 ft.) high, before reaching 
the valley of the Petit Bu'ech at the sta- 
tion of La Roche des Arnauds (9 m.) 



Luxuriant pastures, due to the work in 
recent years of the ' reboisement ' 
Commissioners, alternate here with 
bare, arid mountain slopes (repre- 
senting the ravages caused by the 
grazing of too many sheep), not 
yet taken in hand by the Commis- 
sioners. The imposing mass of the 
Pic de Bure (2,712 m., 8,898 ft.), the 
culminating point of the Aurouse 
group, soon comes in sight, and can 
be easily ascended in 7 hrs. from the 
next station ( 3 1 m. ), Montmaur, which 
is also the starting point of the char 
road over the Col d'Agnieres to the 
desolated region of the Devoluy, de- 
scribed in the preceding Rte. 3^ m. 
beyond Montmaur is the important 
railway junction of Veynts, where 
the lines to Marseilles (1 21 m. ), and 
by the Col de Cabre, and the old 
Roman city of Die to Livron (73 m. 
in 6\ hrs. ), on the main P. L. M. line, 
a little S. of Valence, branch off from 
the line by the Col de la Croix Haute 
to Grenoble, with which we are here 
concerned. Travellers change car- 
riages at Veynes, but it is only near the 
next station (4 m. ), Aspres sur Bu'ech y 
that these two lines actually part off. 
Our line then mounts N. along the 
Bu 'ech itself, through a stony and deso- 
late region. 1 hr. from St. Julien en 
Beauchhie ( 10 m. ) — the name is really 
a corrupt form of Bue'ch, and has no 
reference to fine oaks, as might be 
imagined— are the very picturesquely 
situated ruins, in a magnificent forest, 
of the twelfth-century Carthusian 
monastery of Durbon, which are well 
worth visiting. The scenery becomes 
more and more barren and desolate, 
save the pastures in the valley, as the 
train, after passing the village of Lus 
la Croix Haute (10 m. ), 1,062 m., 
3,484 ft., at the entrance to the upper 
Buech or Trabu'ech valley (for the 
way through it to the Grand Ferrand 
and the Col de Charnier to Agnieres 
see last Rte. ), mounts steeply to the 
Col de la Croix Haute (1,167 m -> 
3,829 ft. ). Hence there is a fine view, 
very striking by reason of the con- 
trast with the region just traversed, 



ROUTE Q. BRIANCON TO GRENOBLE BY GAP 183 



into the fertile basin of the Trieves. 
The descent into the Trieves is very 
rapid, and the soil is of so treacherous, 
a nature that great difficulty has been 
encountered in carrying the line down, 
these slopes. This is effected by a., 
long series of tunnels, viaducts, em- 
bankments, &c. , though when land- 
slips occur (no infrequent occurrence 
here after great storms or heavy rain) 
passengers are forced to. walk soma way 
from one train to another. But for the 
reasons given the descent is very 
striking and picturesque,, especially the 
view of the basin gained after passing 
the station of St.. Maurice en Trieves 
(3 m. ). 6 m. further, under the sha- 
dow of that most remarkable sum- 
mit of the Mont Aiguille (2,097 m.*, 
6,880 ft.), one of the ' Seven Won- 
ders ' of Dauphine is the station of 
Clelles-Mens. (For a notice of that 
peak, of the way from Clelles by the 
Grand Veymont to the Vercors, and 
of the road from Clelles by Mens to 
Corps, see the preceding Rte. ) The 
line beyond Clelles is comparatively 
uninteresting. 9 m. from Clelles 
is the station of Monestier de Cler?nont> 
but the next, St. Martin de la Cluze 
(6m.), is the most convenient whence 
to visit (not now worth the trouble) 
the Fontaine Ardente (the result of 
hydrogen gas issuing from cracks in 
the slaty soil), another of the ' Seven 
Wonders' of Dauphine. The valley 
of the Drac is gained, after a long 
tunnel between the Gresse and Drac 
valleys and two zigzags, at Vif "(8 m. ), 
1 m. from which, across the wide bed 
of the Drac, is the station of St. Georges 
de Commiers, the junction for the most 
astonishing mountain railway to La 
Motte (see Rte. N). The right bank 
of the Drac is henceforward followed, 
the Romanche being crossed near 
Vizille station (3 m. ) (for the route 
thence to Bourg d'Oisans see § 8, 
Rte. A), and the Pont de Claix station 
(4m.) passed before entering (5m.) 
Grenoble, described in § 8. Rte. A. 



SECTION 10. 

GRA NDE CHA R TRE USE DIS TRIC T. 

In the previous Sections of this 
Chapter we have described the ranges 
lying E. and S. of the Graisivaudan 
valley, or middle reach of the Isere. 
To the W. of that valley there are 
several limestone ridges, which en- 
close in their midst the famous mo- 
nastery of the Grande Chartreuse. 
These rise S. W. of the broad depression 
in which stands Chambery, and which 
therefore separates them from other 
limestone ridges extending N. towards 
the valley of the Arve. Both sets of 
ridges have this also in common, that 
in a sense., they are the outliers, or 
the outer edge of the lofty Dauphine 
and Tarentaise Alps. Chambery is 
thus the. natural centre of this region. 
But as the ridges S.W. of that city 
are most conveniently visited from 
Grenoble they are grouped together 
in this . Section, while those to the 
N. of Chambery are described in the 
next Section, 

Among these lower ranges W. of 
the Graisivaudan there are many 
excursions, full of novelty and inte- 
rest* and open to those who prefer to 
avoid risk and great fatigue. They 
have also the advantage that they can 
best be made early or late in the 
travel season, and may serve thus to 
open or close a journey amid the 
higher snow-clad summits. There 
are many good carriage roads and 
mule paths in the Grande Chartreuse 
district, while the accommodation for 
travellers has been greatly improved 
of late years. But, save the monas- 
tery itself, these parts have been as 
yet but little visited by English 
tourists, though the scenery is every- 
where agreeable, and even striking, 
though on a small scale. 

The main routes are here briefly 
indicated, but further details may be 
found in Joanne's guide-books to 
* Savoie ' (1895), to the ' Alpes Dau- 



1 84 DAUPHINE ALPS. § 10. GRANDE CHARTREUSE DISTRICT 



phinoises,' vol. i. (iSoxy , or to 'Dau- 
phine 5 (189S). 

In order to bring together all the 
ways from Grenoble to Chambery it 
has been found practically convenient 
to include in this Section the railway 
line and road on either bank of the 
Isere through the Graisivaudan, as 
well as the more roundabout, but 
picturesque, routes by Aiguebelette 
and the Col du Mont du Chat. 



Route A. 

CULOZ TO CHAMBERY BY AIX LES 
"BAINS. LAKE OF BOURGET. 

Rail in 1 nr. (23 m.) past Aix les Bains 
(14 m.) 

Culoz is probably best known to 
most travellers as one of the chief I 
railway junctions in the S.W. portion 
of the Alpine chain. 

[It is, however, also the best 
starting point for the ascent of the 
Mont Colombier (1,534 m., 5,033 ; 
ft. ), easily gained in 4 hrs. from the 
station, and commanding an ad- , 
mirable view of the Alps of Savoy, 
with the lakes of Bourget, Annecy, I 
and Geneva, which on the W. side 
extends to Lyons and the mountains 
of the Ardeche.3 

The line from Paris (347 m.) by j 
Macon and Amberieu, and from Lyons 1 
(63 m.) by Amberieux, runs in from 
the W., while that from Geneva (42 
m. ) comes from the N. down the 
valley of the Rhone. 

The line to Chamber}', and thence 
by Modane (61 m. ), to Turin (64J m. 
more), crosses the Rhone by a long 
iron bridge, and is then carried j 
S.E. across the marshy tract that ! 
separates that river from the Lake of ; 
Bourget. It is here apparent that, ; 
within a period geologically very 
recent, and perhaps since this region 
was inhabited by man, the waters of 
the Lake of Bourget extended over a j 
large area on either side of the I 



Rhone ; while, in the opposite direc- 
tion, they reached to Chambery, and 
perhaps even to the valley of the 
Isere. About 4 m. from Culoz 
the railway attains the N. shore 
of the lake, close to the station of 
Chindrietix, above which rises on the 
W. the isolated hillock on which 
stands the castle of Chdtillon. Thence 
to Aix les Bains the line is carried 
along the E. shore of the lake, pass- 
ing by four tunnels under as many 
rocky promontories, but in the inter- 
vals between them commanding very 
beautiful views of the lake and of the 
range of the Mont du Chat. Near 
the S. end of the lake the railway 
crosses a fertile plain in order to gain 
(14 m. from Culoz) 

Aix les Bains, one of the most 
frequented and agreeable watering- 
places on the Continent. 

The mineral waters of Aix have 
been known for at least 18 centuries, 
and are now annually visited by thou- 
sands of strangers (though many come 
to this fashionable resort for reasons 
other than ill-health), without count- 
ing the neighbouring country people. 
The position of the place, amidst the 
undulating and richly-cultivated slopes 
that intervene between the Bauges 
mountains and the lake, is too low 
(258 m., 846 ft.) and warm to suit a 
mountaineer, but offers to visitors, 
whether they use the waters or do 
not, a variety of interesting excur- 
sions, for the most part very easy 
indeed. 

(a) Grand Revard. — The indis- 
pensable excursion from Aix is the 
ascent of this point (1,545 m., 5,069 
ft. ), one of the summits which bounds 
on the E. the plain in which Aix is 
situated. It is now reached by a 
funicular railway in ij hr. from Aix 
past Mouxy. The station is about 
100 ft. below the summit, on which 
are two inns, open in summer. The 
Revard is one of the best points for a 
view over the lake and the surround- 
ing country. From the top of the 
Revard it is possible to make a tra- 
verse (much recommended) along the 



ROUTE A. CULOZ TO CHAMBERY BY AIX LES BAINS 185 



edge of the cliffs in 2 hrs. to the 
Dent du Nivolet, above Chambery. 

(b) Abbey of Hautecombe. — A 

visit to this famous house should not 
be omitted by any one staying at Aix. 
It stands on the steep W. shore of 
the lake, about 5 miles N.W. of Aix, 
and is reached by steamer in about 
^ hr. Founded in 1 125 as a Cis- 
tercian monastery, it has been for 
inany centuries the burial-place of the 
princes of the House of Savoy, and 
was specially reserved to them at the 
time of the annexation of Savoy to 
France in i860. It was secularised 
in 1792, but in 1824 the King of 
Sardinia bought the ruins, and caused 
the present building (in questionable 
taste) to be raised as a restoration. 
It is now occupied by Cistercians 
once more, who are charged with the 
care of the tombs, many of which are 
interesting, and deserve notice as 
works of art, though most of them 
have been restored. 

(c) The Lake, and the Dent du 
Chat. — The chief natural attraction 
of which Aix can boast is the beauti- 
ful Lake of Bourget, which may well 
vie with many others of greater cele- 
brity, and affords scope for numerous 
pleasant excursions. Reduced to less 
than half its original dimensions by 
the detritus carried down by the 
Rhone at the northern, and by the 
Leisse at the southern, extremity, it 
is at present about 10 m. in length, 
with an average breadth of 3 m. ; its 
area is 28 m., and its greatest depth 
145 m. (476 ft.) Its W. shore is 
bounded by the long and steep ridge 
of the Mont du Chat, which is the 
connecting link between the outer 
ranges of the Savoy Alps and the 
chain of the Jura. The height of 
this very uniform ridge exceeds 
3,500 ft., but just opposite Aix there 
is a well-marked depression, the Col 
du Mont du Chat (638 m., 2,093 )> 
across which a carriage road leads to 
Yenne (Rte. E), 7 m. on the other 
side of the Col. Immediately to the 
S. of the Col rises a bold craggy peak, 
the Dent du Chat (1,400m., 4,593 ft.), 



whence a very fine view is obtained. 
The prettiest way thither is to cross 
the lake in an hour to Bourdeau 
(which has a most picturesquely- 
situated old castle), and thence mount 
to the Col by a mule path in f hr. 
Another way is to drive from Aix to 
Le B our get, at the S. end of the 
lake, and thence follow the good 
mule path in rather over an hour to 
the Col. The easiest way is to drive 
on from Le Bourget, and to ascend 
by the great zigzags of the old main 
road from Chambery to Lyons to the 
Col (4 m. from Le Bourget, which is 
7 m. from Chambery, or 6 m. from 
Aix). Here there is an inn. The 
view from the Col is very extensive, 
and will well reward those who can- 
not achieve the rest of the ascent, 
though these persons are recom- 
mended to follow the road over the 
pass for 7 min. to a quarry, and then 
to take a path to the 1. which leads 
in 10 m. more to the summit of a 
grassy mound. 

From the Col there are two ways 
up the Dent. One is to take a path 
just on the Aix side of the pass, 
which leads in \ hr. to a pretty 
meadow, whence it continues, turning 
all the teeth on the ridge, to the 
highest summit ( I \ hr. ) Another is 
to descend a little on the Yenne side 
of the Col, then to take a path to the 
1. to the Yacherie (§ hr. ), whence an 
ill-marked track leads in somewhat 
over an hour to the foot of the last 
peak, which is climbed by stone 
steps, guarded by an iron railing, on 
the lake side of the peak (2 hrs. 
from the Col). The highest point 
appears, from a distance, to be quite 
inaccessible, and it is hard at first to 
see how it can be scaled. 

The distance from Aix to Cham- 
bery is 9 m. The approach to the 
capital of Savoy, through the broad 
valley which separates the mountains 
of the Grande Chartreuse group from 
those of the Bauges, abounds in fine 
points of view. To the former group 
belong the Mont Grelle (1,426 nr., 
4,679 ft. ) on the S.W., and the Mont 



i86 DAUPHINE ALPS. § 10. GRANDE CHARTREUSE DISTRICT 



Granier (1,938 m., 6,358 ft.) due S., 
while to the N. E. the Dent du Nivo- 
l et (^553 m -> 5^95 ft-)? an advanced 
bastion of the Bauges, presents a very- 
bold front. 

Chambery (269 m., 883 ft.) is a 
cheerful little city of 21,000 inhabit- 
ants, now reduced from its former 
rank as the capital of the duchy of 
Savoy to that of the chief town of the 
department of the same name, and so 
the residence of a prefect. The slopes 
of the hills in the neighbourhood, 
covered with villas and gardens, give 
it an air of wealth and importance, 
to which the interior of the city 
scarcely corresponds. 

Of the numerous excursions to be 
made hence the most frequented is 
that to Les Charmettes, well known 
to the readers of the ' Confessions ' 
of J. J. Rousseau (about -J-hr.'s walk). 
The house and garden have been kept 
nearly in the same state as in his 
time. To the lover of nature a more 
interesting walk is that to the Bout 
du Monde, at the base of the Dent du 
Nivolet. It is reached in an hour 
along either bank of the Leisse tor- 
rent ; the path turns aside towards 
the N. at the opening of the gorge of 
the Doria, a stream which descends 
through a cleft between the Dent du 
Nivolet and the ChafTardon. 

A somewhat longer expedition is to 
the Abtmes de Myans, some lakes 
which owe their origin to a great fall 
in 1248 from the Mont Granier. 
They are best visited from the station 
of Chignin-Les Marches (6 m.), and 
are therefore described in the next 
Rte. 

The ascent of the Dent du Nivolet 
(1,553 m., 5,095 ft.) is best made by 
following the carriage road towards 
Le Chatelard (§11. Rte. C. 1 ) as far as 
Les Deserts (9m.), whence easy paths 
lead up the E. slope of the moun- 
tain in \\ hr. to the summit, crowned 
by a huge cross, which is very con- 
spicuous from Chambery. The direct 
way from Chambery is very steep. 
The view is not equal to that from 
the Dent du Chat. For other excur- 



sions in the chain of the Bauges, see 
§ 11. Rtes. A, C, and D, for that 
to Allevard § 8. Rte. F. for that to 
the Mont Granier, Rte. C, below, and 
for those to Grenoble by the Grande 
Chartreuse or Aiguebelette, see Rtes. 
D and E, below. 



Route B. 

GRENOBLE TO CHAMBERY BY THE 
LEFT BANK OF THE ISERE. 

M. 



Domene .... 7 

Brignoud . . . .12 

Tencin . . . . .16 

Goncelin . . . .19 

Pontcharra . . . .26 

Montmelian .... 30^ 

Chignin-Les Marches . . 33 

Chambery . . . . 39 



Rail in about 2 hrs. 

On leaving Grenoble the line is 
carried nearly due E., avoiding the 
banks of the Isere, which here follows 
a very sinuous course. On the oppo- 
site bank many villages and hamlets 
are seen, perched upon a sort of 
terrace running along the middle 
height of the mountain range that 
extends from the Mont Rachais to 
the Mont Granier, but these are in- 
visible from the high road on the right 
bank of the river. At Gieres (4m.), 
where there are many pretty villas, 
the road crosses the Sonnant torrent, 
descending from Uriage. (For Uriage 
and the Belledonne, see § 8. Rte. I. ) 
The next village is Domlne, on the 
Domenon torrent, one of the chief 
torrents descending from the Belle- 
donne, which may be reached direct 
from here (§ 8. Rte. I). The 
Domenon supplies abundant water 
power, which is applied to various 
industrial purposes. At Domene are 
the ruins of a church belonging to a 
Cluniac monastery, destroyed during 
the Revolution, and a short distance 
off is a bridge leading to the right 



ROUTE B. GRENOBLE 1 TO CHAMBERY 187 



bank of the Isere. 3 m. further 
on is Lancey, where the line crosses 
a powerful torrent descending from 
the Lac du Crozet (1,968 m. , 
6,457 ft.), which lies under the peak 
of the Grande Lance de Domene 
(2,813 m -j 9> 22 9 ft-) On the right 
is seen a fine chateau, belonging to 
M. Du Boys, which commands an 
admirable view of the valley of 
G-raisivaudan, as that of the Isere is 
called between Grenoble and Mont- 
melian. 16 m. from Grenoble, after 
passing Brignoud, is Te?ici?t ; from the 
former village the Col de la Coche 
leads over to the Sept Laux, from the 
latter the Col du Merdaret to the 
Allevard valley. (For both see § 8. 
Rte. G. ) In the grounds of a chateau 
at Tencin, belonging to M. de Mon- 
teynard, the representative of one of 
the oldest families in this part of 
France, there is a gorge abruptly 
barred across by a wall of rock. This 
spot, called the Bout du Monde, is 
often visited by strangers. Near 
Goncelin is the suspension bridge 
over the Isere leading to Le Touvet. 
3 m. farther on is Goncelin, a larger 
scattered village, the lower part 
of which was utterly destroyed by a 
waterspout in 1827. A country road 
leads hence in 7 m. to the Baths of 
Allevard, but most travellers bound 
for Allevard will prefer to continue in 
the train for 7 m. more to Pont- 
charra, whence a steam tramway now 
runs up in 9 m. to Allevard (see § 8. 
Rte. F). Pontcharra is close to the 
junction of the Breda with the Isere. 

[About a mile from the village 
are the remains of the Chateau de 
Bayard, the birthplace (1476) of the 
illustrious Chevalier Bayard. Though 
in sadly neglected condition the place 
deserves a visit. The offices serve as 
a farmhouse, and but one of the three 
floors which composed the main build- 
ing now remains. Between the 
chateau and the village is the hamlet 
of Avalon, the birthplace in 1 1 35 of 
the celebrated St. Hugh of Lincoln. J 

The line from Pontcharra to Mont- 
melian is very beautiful, lying chiefly 



among orchards, with the fine range of 
the Mont Granier, on the opposite side 
of the valley, full in view. Montmelian 
(30 J m. from Grenoble) was once 
famous as one of the strongest for- 
tresses in Europe, being to Savoy 
what Barraux, nearly opposite, was to 
France. It was demolished after 
Louis XVI. took it in 1691. The 
present importance of Montmelian is 
as the junction of the line from 
Grenoble with that (§ 7. Rte. A) 
from Modane (52 m. distant). The 
line now turns N.W., and passes the 
station of Chignin-Les Marches, be- 
fore reaching Chambery (6 m. be- 
yond). This is the best point whence 
to visit the Abimes de Myans, about 
I m. off. Several small lakes, lying 
in the midst of conical hillocks, have 
attracted the attention of geologists 
since the time of Saussure. It appears 
certain that both hillocks and lakes 
owe their origin to a great bergfall 
from the neighbouring peak of the 
Mont Granier. This took place in 
the night of November 24-25, 1248. 
Many villages were overwhelmed by 
it, and 5,000 persons are credibly 
stated to have perished in it. M. 
Ferrand has given the history of this 
dreadful catastrophe in an article 
published in vol. ix. of the ' Annu- 
aire 5 of the French Alpine Club, and 
therein narrates the legends which 
have gathered round the pilgrimage 
chapel of N. D. de Myans (now sur- 
mounted by a great gilt cross), which 
stands at the further end of the berg- 
fall. 



Route C. 

GRENOBLE TO CHAMBERY BY THE 
RIGHT BANK OF THE ISERE. 

Though most travellers will doubt- 
less go from one of these places to 
the other by the railway on the left 



i88 DAUPHINE ALPS. § 10. GRANDE CHARTREUSE DISTRICT 



bank of the Isere, yet it is worth 
while to describe briefly the high 
road along the right bank, as it com- 
mands by far the finest views of the 
neighbouring Alps. The distance to 
Chambery is about 35 m. A railway is 
to be constructed along this bank also. 

The road leaves Grenoble by the 
Porte St. Laurent, at the N. end of 
the town, and winds along the base 
of the 67. Eynard, a long ridge which 
bounds the valley on this side, and is 
frequently visited by the botanists of 
the neighbourhood. After passing 
Montbomiot, a picturesque village, 
surmounted by a ruined castle, the 
range of Belledonne comes well into 
view to the E., and is the most 
striking feature in the fine panorama 
which is almost everywhere dis- 
covered in this part of the Graisi- 
vaudan valley. 2 m. beyond Mont- 
bonnot (7 m. from Grenoble) is 
St. Ismier, a village at the foot of the 
highest part of the St. Eynard 
(1,359 m., 4,459 ft.) 

[Hence a foot path mounts in zig- 
zags in a N. direction up the slopes 
of the St. Eynard to the slightly 
marked depression of the Col de St. 
Ismier — called Col du Fraitar on the 
French map — whence the pedestrian 
descends by the Herbetan valley to St. 
Pierre de Chartreuse, gained in 5 hrs. 
from St. Ismier. About 1 m. from 
St. Ismier, on the road towards Cham- 
bery, a char road detaches itself at the 
hamlet of Les Eymes, after crossing 
the Manival torrent, and mounts by a 
series of very picturesque zigzags in 
4 m. to the village of St. Panc7-asse. 
A good mule path leads hence nearly 
due N. to the broad opening of the Col 
des Ayes, ijhr., whence it descends 
through the Perquelin ravine to St. 
Pierre de Chartreuse, 2 hrs. St. 
Pierre is 3 m. from the monastery by 
a road which descends to the main 
high road from Grenoble over the 
Col de Porte. From the Col des 
Ayes the ascent of the Dent de 
Crolles, or Petit Som (2,066 m., 
6,779 ft. )j the second highest summit 
of the district, may be made — past 



the Trou du Glaz, a deep natural 
cavern — in 2 hrs. by way of a gully 
in the cliffs dividing the lower 
pastures from the extensive upper 
plateau which forms the summit of 
mountain, whence there is a magni- 
ficent view. J 

2| m. from St. Ismier is Bernin, 
on the stream of the same name, 
which, when full, forms, near Cra- 
ponoz, one of the most picturesque 
waterfalls in Dauphine. Lumbin is 
about 3 m. farther on, Crolles, which 
gives its name to the overhanging 
peak of that name, being passed on 
the way. Several other small vil- 
lages and hamlets are passed before 
reaching (4m.) Le Touvet, a large 
village, near which a suspension 
bridge leads over the Isere. 

[The ridge to the W. , called Haut 
du Seuil, or Aup du Seuil (1,817 m -> 
5,961 ft.), may be reached hence in 
5 hrs., and commands a magnificent 
view of the Graisivaudan valley and of 
the ranges of the Dauphine Alps. 
Near the summit is a very curious am- 
phitheatre, resembling on a small 
scale the cirques of the Pyrenees. 
From the Haut du Seuil a descent may 
be made in 4 hrs. to St. Pierre d'En- 
tremont, past the Sources of the Guiers 
Vif.J 

3 m. beyond Le Touvet is La 
Buissiere, lying at the foot of the 
ridge of the Alpette (1,841 m. , 
6,040 ft. ), a portion of the almost 
continuous range which extends from 
the St. Eynard to the Mont Granier, 
and which everywhere commands 
noble views of the High Alps. The 
Col de Valefroide leads across the 
Alpette ridge in 7 or 8 hrs. from 
Le Touvet, or La Buissiere, to St. 
Pierre d'Entremont (see Rte. D. 
below). Less than a mile beyond 
La Buissiere the new road to Cham- 
bery turns to the right, passing be- 
tween the Fort of Barraux and the 
Isere. The Fort stands on a rock 
130m. (427 ft.) above the river, and 
is separated from the village of the 
same name, on the lower slopes of 
the Alpette, by a little col, or saddle, 



ROUTE C. GRENOBLE TO CHAMBERY 



189 



over which the old road was carried. 
A third way, recommended to pedes- 
trians, passes to the 1. of the old 
road through the picturesque village 
of Barranx (2 m. from La Buissiere). 
The three roads unite about I m. 
farther on, passing a few hundred j 
yards to the right of the village of 
Chapareillan ( 5 m. from La Buissiere), 
which stands near the foot of Mont 
Granier. 

[Of all the mountain excursions in 
the outer ranges of the Savoy Alps, 
there is none, perhaps not even the 
Dent du Chat (Rte. A), so inte- 
resting and agreeable as the ascent 
of the Mont Granier. From 4 to 
4| hrs. are required for the climb 
from Chapareillan, and about 3 hrs. 
for the return. Though only 1 ,938 m. 
(6,358 ft.) above the sea, the upper 
part of the mountain is quite alpine, 
and the panorama admirable, and not 
surpassed by that from the Dent du 
Chat. The excursion may be easily 
made from Chambery, and is recom- 
mended to those who are approaching 
the South Savoy or Dauphine Alps j 
from that city. To avoid wrong paths 
in the forest it is expedient to take a 
guide. The way usually followed 
passes the hamlet of La Palud (where 
a guide may be engaged), \ hr. above 
Chapareillan. For \ hr. farther the 
way lies over marshy meadows, and 
then through a forest, in which de- 
ciduous trees ultimately give place to 
pines. After a rather steep ascent 
the track passes a shepherd's hut, and 
then, after following for some way a 
path across which the shepherds 
place a gate in summer to prevent 
the cattle from going too far— hence 
the name of this route, Pas de la 
Porte — the traveller soon gains the 
highest plateau of the mountain, com- 
posed of calcareous rock, traversed by 
a system of fissures much resembling 
glacier crevasses. This is called a 
4 lapiaz, ' or a ' Karrenfeld. ' There 
are two paths hence to St. Pierre 
d'Entremont in 4 hrs.J 

A mile beyond Chapareillan a 
Stream is crossed which formerly I 



marked the frontier between Dau- 
phine and Savoy, and 2 m. further 
the traveller reaches the village of 
Les Marches. Hence the excursion 
to the Abimes de Myans (formed 
by a bergfall from the Mont Granier 
in 1248), described in the last 
Rte., may be best made. Cham- 
bery is reached from here either by 
road (7 m. ) or by rail (6 m. ), passing 
through very pleasing scenery (§10. 
Rte. A). 



Route D. 

GRENOBLE OR CHAMBERY TO THE 
GRANDE CHARTREUSE. 

The celebrated monastery of the 
Grande Chartreuse stands in about 
the centre of the range of limestone 
mountains that extend along the right 
bank of the Isere between Grenoble 
and Montmelian. It is one of the 
few great monastic establishments 
that have survived the revolutions of * 
the last century. Remaining nearly 
in its original state, and with the 
primitive severity of its discipline 
unrelaxed, it still presents a living 
image of the institutions which had so 
great a part in forming the religious, 
intellectual, and social condition of 
Europe during the long period be- 
tween the invasions of the barbarians 
and the diffusion of printing. The 
interest naturally attaching to the 
building is much enhanced by the 
beauty and singularity of the scenery 
which surrounds it. It is true that 
since railways and tramways have 
begun to cany holiday-seekers from 
Lyons, Grenoble, Chambery, and Aix 
to St. Laurent du Pont, and that a 
good road (alas ! soon to give way to 
a tramway) has been carried up to the 
very gate of the monastery, those who 
come here intending for a moment to 
revert from the present to the past are 
liable to unexpected disenchantment. 
Such persons should choose for their 
visit the season of early winter, early 
summer, or late autumn, when the 



190 DAUPHINE ALPS. § 10. GRANDE CHARTREUSE DISTRICT 



community, then relatively undis- 
turbed by visitors, have, in addition 
to the severity of their rule, to struggle 
against the rigour of the climate. 
The lover of nature may always find 
greater tranquillity by approaching 
the monastery by some of the nume- 
rous foot paths leading thither, avoid- 
ing the frequented carriage roads. 

As intimated in the Introduction 
to § II. the mountains of this 
range are, on the one hand, unmis- 
takeably connected with the Alps 
through the parallel range of Belle - 
donne, while, on the other, they are 
linked to the Jura by the ridge of 
the Mont du Chat. Although much 
bolder and more imposing, the scenery 
has perhaps more of the character of 
the Jura than of the Alps. As in the 
former range, the general outline is 
very uniform, and the summits, which, 
in truth, are rather ridges than peaks, 
all lie nearly within the limits 6,300- 
6,800 ft. The highest is the Chame- 
chaude (2,087 m -> °;847 ft.), the next 
the Dent de Crolles (2,066 m., 
6,779 ft.), followed by the Grand 
Som (2,033 m. , 6,670 ft.), and the 
Mont Granier (1,938 m., 6,358 ft.) 
(The first and third of these are de- 
scribed below, the others in Rte. C. ) 
But this outward uniformity gives 
place to great variety and boldness of 
scenery in the interior of the valleys, 
which are for the most part clefts of 
variable width, • walled in by steep 
rocks, often quite precipitous. The 
whole district is traversed by paths 
not seldom intricate and misleading, 
and the mountaineer who may sup- 
pose that among ranges of such 
moderate height no especial precau- 
tion is necessary is warned that local 
knowledge is more needed here than 
in the higher regions of the Alps. In 
the valleys, even where the path does 
not lie through pine forest, the. view 
is generally much restricted, while 
from the upper ridges a precipice of 
more than 1,000 ft. in depth is often 
not suspected until the traveller has 
reached its very verge. 

A detailed account of the many 



routes that traverse this range, and 
of the numerous excursions that may 
be made from the Grande Chartreuse, 
scarcely enters into the plan of this 
book. The more interesting of them 
are alone briefly noticed here. For 
further details consult M. Henri 
Ferrand's excellent ' Guide a la 
Grande Chartreuse 5 (2nd edition, 
1889^, and the same writer's superbly 
illustrated work 6 Les Montagnes de 
la Grande Chartreuse ' (Grenoble, 
1898), or, for a more general ac- 
count, Joanne's 6 Alpes Dauphinoises ' 
(1890), vol. i. Rte. 22. For an au- 
thentic and most interesting account 
of the monastery and its history see 
4 La Grande Chartreuse par un Char- 
treux ' (first issued in 1881, and since 
much enlarged, 6th edition, 1896 ; to 
be had at the convent). 

It seems most convenient to de- 
scribe first the route by which the 
monastery is most commonly reached 
from Grenoble or from Chambery 
(giving an account of the house itself 
under this head), and then to indicate 
the other chief roads or paths which 
lead to it, either from Grenoble, the 
ordinary starting place, or from 
Chambery. Many ways can thus be 
taken from one of these places to the 
other. 

1. By St. Laurent du Pont.— This 

village is now easily reached from 
Grenoble or Chambery by railway, 
and the new steam tramway. 

(a) From Grenoble. — Rail to Voi- 
ron (16 m. in 35-50 min.), thence 
by steam tram to St. Laurent (12 m. , 
i-ii hr.) 

Voiron is a station on the main 
line from Grenoble to Lyons by St- 
Andre le Gaz. Thence the new tram 
line runs E. to St. Etienne de Crossey> 
and then passes through the very pic- 
turesque gorge of Crossey, 1 m. long. 
Near its upper end falls in the direct 
carriage road from Grenoble by way 
of Voreppe and the Col de la Placette 
(18 m.) (From that col a walker 
can go direct to the monastery by the 
Pas de la Misericorde, and the Gra?ide 
Sure, 1,924 m., 6,312 ft., command- 



ROUTE D. GRENOBLE TO THE GRANDE CHARTREUSE 191 



ing a fine panorama, in 10-12 hrs. ) 

St. Joseph de Riviere is a short dis- 
tance beyond, and it is 3 m. more 
to St. Laurent. 

(b) From Chambery. — There are 
two routes hence. 

(i.) By St. Beron. — Rail to St. 
Beron (15 m., 55 min. ), and steam 
tram on past Les Echelles to St. 
Laurent (9 m., 50 min.) The line 
from Chambery is the same as that to 
Pont de Beauvoisin (Rte. E) as far 
as St. Beron. It mounts W. to the 
station (7 m.) of the Cascade de Coziz, 
near which is a pretty waterfall, 50 m. 
(164 ft.) in height. It then pierces 
the Mont de 1'Epine by a tunnel of 
3,000 yds., in order to reach Aigue- 
belette \i\ m. ), burrows under another 
lower ridge to attain Lepin (2J m.), 
having passed along the shore of the 
Lake of Aiguebelette between the two, 
and then turns S. W. to gain St. Beron 
(3m.) Hence starts the new steam 
tramway which runs through the savage 
gorge of Chatties to Les Echelles (5 
m. ), and then up the wide valley of 
the Guiers Mort to St. Laurent (4m.) 

(ii. ) By the Col de Couz.— Rail to 
the Cascade de Couz station (7 m.), 
thence high road to Les Echelles 
(II m.), which (as above) is 4 m. 
by steam tram from St. Laurent. 

The ridge of the Mont du Chat is 
to some extent continuous with that 
of the Grande Chartreuse, and though 
diminished in height it serves to 
form a barrier between the basin of 
Chambery and the plains of France. 
The lowest point of this barrier is 
near Les Echelles, but the natural 
difficulties of the passage were such 
that until the completion of the new 
road and tunnel, in 1 8 14, the longer 
and steeper pass of the Mont du Chat 
was the route ordinarily followed be- 
tween France and Savoy. From 
Chambery the road to the Cascade de 
Couz (3 m. less than by rail) follows 
the upward course of the Hiere, which 
flows from the S.W. The basin of 
Chambery gradually contracts until 
at St. Thibaud de Couz (2 m. from 
the Cascade staton) the road fairly 



enters the defile leading to the pass, 
between the Mont Grelle (1,426 m., 
4,679 ft.), belonging to the range of 
the Mont du Chat, and the Rocher de 
Corbelet (1,416m., 4,646 ft. ), directly 
connected with the Grande Chartreuse 
group. After about 4 m. of gentle 
ascent the road reaches the summit of 
the Col de Couz (625 m., 2,051 ft.), 
the village of St. Jean de Couz lying 
a short distance on the left. The 
descent commences through a natural 
cleft in the limestone rock, until the 
road enters (2 m. ) a tunnel 308 m. 
( 1 ,01 1 ft. ) in length, pierced from 1804 
to 1 8 14 by order of Napoleon. At 
the opposite end a remarkable view 
suddenly presents itself. The tunnel 
has been bored through a great wall 
of limestone, and at its W. end issues 
at a great height above the valley of the 
Guiers, which is backed by the higher 
mountains of the Grande Chartreuse 
range. After descending part of the 
way towards Les Echelles, the appar- 
ent impossibility of carrying a road 
across the formidable wall of rock 
that bars the passage is more striking 
than from above. 

[The ancient route lay in part 
through a cavern, which was at the 
same time the bed of a stream, and 
which was reached on the W. side by 
ladders fixed to the rocks. In 1670 
Charles Emmanuel II., duke of 
Savoy, achieved the construction of a 
new road, passable for chars ; though 
long abandoned, it still exists, very 
rough and difficult, and, like the re- 
markable cavern, is worth a visit en 
passant. The way starts from the 
tunnel-keeper's house at the E. end 
of Napoleon's tunnel. The whole 
. story of these old tracks has been 
well told in an interesting volume 
published at Chambery in 1887 by 
MM. J. Martin-Franklin and L. 
Vaccarone, under the title of 6 Notice 
Historique sur Pancienne Route de 
Charles Emmanuel II et les Grottes 
des Echelles. 'J 

3 m. from the W. end of the tunnel 
is the village of Les Echelles, which 
derives its name from the ladders that 



192 DAUPHINE ALPS. § 10. GRANDE CHARTREUSE DISTRICT 



gave access to the above-mentioned 
ancient passage. The village stands 
on the r. or Savoy bank of the Guiers 
Vif, which just below unites with the 
Guiers Mort, these two streams 
draining the larger portion of the 
Grande Chartreuse range ; the village 
opposite, on the 1. or Dauphine bank 
of the Guiers Vif, is called Enire 
Deux Guiers. 



The new tramway in 1897 was 
not open beyond St. Laurent du 
Pont. From this place a good car- 
riage road leads up to the monastery 
( 5 \ m. ), but those who have time are 
strongly recommended to walk (2hrs. ), 
as the beauties of the route repay 
leisurely examination. The road 
follows the Guiers Mort. In I m. 
there is passed on the r. the exten- 
sive buildings in which the manu- 
facture of the famous liqueur is 
carried on. These are called Four- 
voirie, the name coming from ' forata 
via,' as just beyond begins the road 
pierced by the monks to facilitate 
access to their home. A gate (de- 
stroyed in 1856) formerly barred the 
road here, and thus held guard over 
all communication between the mo- 
nastic inhabitants of the ' Desert ' and 
the outer world. The narrow cleft 
that allows the Guiers Mort to escape 
from its mountain birthplace thus 
affords the only easy access to the 
retreat which, for so many centuries, 
has been inhabited by the followers 
of St. Bruno. For an hour the road 
is carried along the left bank of the 
Guiers Mort through scenery which, 
if not of the grandest character, is 
wild and impressive and well wooded. 
At the Pont St. Bruno (2 m. from 
Fourvoirie) the stream is crossed, and 
the new road (built 1854-6) begins. 
The work presented considerable 
engineering difficulties, and involved 
the construction of four tunnels ; but, 
whatever other advantages it may 
possess, it has certainly deprived the 
monastery of a portion of the charm 
which it formerly owned over the 



imagination of the poet and the 
artist. It soon passes a bold rocky 
needle, the (Eillette, 40m. (131 ft.) 
high, and now crowned by a great 
cross. Beyond the fourth tunnel the 
gorge widens, and soon (4 J m. from 
St. Laurent) the road passes opposite 
the Pont St. Pierre^ over which comes 
the road from St. Pierre de Char- 
treuse. It then turns gradually to 
the left, quitting the Guiers valley, 
and mounts towards the N. till it 
enters an upland basin, in great part 
clothed with pine forest, and over- 
hung on the E. side by the wall-like 
precipices of the Grand Som. 

In the centre of this solitude, at a 
height of 977 m. (3,205 ft.), stands 
the pile of buildings which form the 
monastery. In this, the parent house 
of the Carthusian order (founded here 
in 1084 by St. Bruno of Cologne), the 
original rule is observed in all its 
severity. The monks never eat meat, 
and their diet is at all times of the 
most frugal kind ; they rise at 10 or 
11 p.m. (according to the season) for 
Mattins, which last 2 hrs. at least, 
and, as a rule, only leave their cells 
twice in the daytime for High Mass 
and Vespers. Their lives are passed 
between the church and manual 
labour in their cells, which are really 
little houses two stories high, with a 
small garden attached. Below there 
are a wood-house and a workshop ; 
above, a sitting-room and a bedroom 
(and oratory), with sometimes a 
small study wedged in between. 
There are 36 of these cells, arranged 
round the great cloister, and the one 
now marked F is, by tradition, that 
formerly occupied (1160-I181) by 
St. Hugh of Lincoln. Besides the 
full professed monks (all priests) 
there are a number of lay brethren. 
Excepting those whose office requires 
intercourse with strangers, they never 
speak, save on special and rare occa- 
sions, such as Sundays and certain 
feast days, and their chief recreation 
(besides working in their gardens and 
study of books) is to walk within the 
I precincts of the 'Desert,' near the 



ROUTE D. GRENOBLE TO THE GRANDE CHARTREUSE 193 



monastery. This f spaciment,' or 
weekly walk, lasts 3 hrs. or so, and 
conversation is then permitted. 

Strangers are received by one of 
the lay brethren, and four times a day 
are conducted to see the church and 
the rest of the buildings, and are also 
allowed to be present in the church 
during the offices, in the tribune at the 
W. end. No one should fail to go, 
for some time at least, either to 
Mattins or to the High Mass, as 
the scene is extremely impressive. 
Strangers are only given fish, eggs, 
bread, &c. , but no meat. They are 
lodged in special ceils, the beds being 
quite clean, though rough. Without 
special permission no one is allowed 
to remain more than two days, and a 
moderate payment is made by each 
person, according to a fixed tariff. 
It should be particularly borne in 
mind that women (save sovereigns) 
are not admitted into the monastery 
on any pretence whatsoever. They 
are obliged to remain in a building 
near the great gate, where they are 
cared for by Sisters. Many persons 
now prefer to stay either at the Hotel 
du Desert (2 m. off) or at the H. 
Victoria in the village of St. Pierre 
de Chartreuse (3 m. ) itself (see 2. 
below). 

The scenery surrounding the monas- 
tery is fine enough to make the place 
interesting, apart from any special 
religious or historical associations. 
To the botanist this neighbourhood is 
made attractive by the presence of 
several species which are elsewhere 
rare, or quite unknown in the 
Alps, e.g. Hypericum nummularium y 
Erijms alpinus, &c. 

The most interesting excursion for 
the mountaineer is the ascent of the 
Grand Som (2,033 m -> 6,670 ft.), 
which, despite its name, is only the 
third highest point in the group. This 
involves a considerable detour, for 
every short cut in the direction of the 
peak leads to the base of the formid- 
able precipices that form its W. face. 
Half an hour's walk from the convent 
along a char road is the chapel of N. D. 

I. 



de Casalihus (on the site of the original 
chapel of the monastery), and 10 min. 
beyond is the Chapelle de St. Brimo, 
on a great rock, this being the spot 
where St. Bruno built his first chapeL 
The Grand Som mule path turns off 
just before the first-named chapel, and 
mounts through the fine forest to the 
Bovinant meadows (2 hrs. from he 
convent). Thence either the foot path 
by a rock ledge, or a direct ascent up 
the wall, then along the ridge, or a 
roundabout but well-marked route 
joining the ridge higher up, lead to the 
summit in 1 hr. more. The view is 
very fine, extending from Mont Blanc 
to Monte Viso, while the convent is in 
the basin at the feet of the spectator. 
The expedition presents great variety 
of scenery within comparatively nar- 
row limits. Among other interesting 
plants the botanist will observe 
Pote?itiiia niiida. 

2. From Grenoble by Le Sappey and 
the Col de Porte. — This route is a 
good carriage road, by which dili- 
gences take 5 hrs. up to the convent, 
and 3f hrs. down. It is best taken 
down to Grenoble, and is here so de- 
scribed, as it is the route usually 
chosen for the return from the monas- 
tery. The distance is 18^ m. 

Just below the convent the road 
leaves that to Grenoble, and soon 
passes the buildings called the Cor- 
rerie, now the convent farm, and a 
hospital for the neighbourhood. 1 ni . 
further on the road traverses the Porte 
de PEnclos, and leaves the 'Desert,' 
and another mile brings us to the 
H. du Desert, on the roadside. It is 
at the base of the hillock on which 
stands (1 m. oft") the very ancient 
village of St. Pierre de Chartreuse, 
which originally gave its name to the 
infant convent. The road now turns 
to the S. , and 7 m. from the convent 
reaches the Col de Forte (1,352 m. , 
4,436 ft.), and in 2 m. more the 
village of Le Sappey. 

[From the high road the ascent 
of Chamechaude (2,087 m., 6,847 ft.), 
the highest summit of the Chartreuse 
ranges, may be made in 2J-3 hrs. 

o 



194 DAUPHINE ALPS. § 10. GRANDE CHARTREUSE DISTRICT 



from Le Sappey. The view is natu- 
rally the most extensive to be gained 
from any point in this district.] 

From Le Sappey the descent, over a 
depression between the Mont Rachais 
and the St. Eynard, is long, and for 
the most part uninteresting, though 
from the pass itself (3 m. ), the Col de 
Vence (752 m. , 2,467 ft. \ some fine 
views are gained over the Graisivaudan 
valley and the higher ranges of the 
Dauphine Alps. The road passes by 
Corenc, and in 4 m. from the Col de 
Vence enters Grenoble by the Porte 
St. Laurent, at the N. end of the 
town. 

3. From Grenoble by the Col de la 
Charmette. — This way is most 
strongly recommended to pedestrians, 
as it is one of the most picturesque 
and charming approaches to the con- 
vent. A splendid carriage road 
leaves Grenoble by the Porte de 
Erance at the W. end of the town, 
and leads to St. Egreve (4 m. ), 
which is connected with Grenoble by 
a service of public vehicles several 
times a day. Hence a char road 
mounts N.E. by the pretty valley of 
the Vence to Proveysieux ( 2 5 m. ) and 
Pomaray (2 m. ) From this point 
there are only foot or mule paths. 
The stony track soon plunges into 
fine forests, and only issues from them 
on reaching the grassy plain, framed 
by pine woods, which forms the Col 
de la Charmette, 1,280 m., 4,200 ft. 
(3 m.from Pomaray). Here is a maiso?i 
forestiere, where accommodation on 
hay may be had in case of need. 
Hence there are various ways by 
which the convent may be gained. 
There is a fine carriage road which 
descends past (4 m. ) the Chartreuse 
de Currier e (formerly the sanatorium 
of the great monastery, now an insti- 
tute for deaf and dumb persons) to the 
main road close to St. Laurent (7m.) ; 
while from the Tenaison hut, 1 m. 
down the Curriere road, the pedestrian 
may cross the Col de la Cochette and 
reach the Correrie (3 hrs. from Tenai- 
son) by a bridge over the Guiers 
Mort. The preferable way is to go 



as far as Curriere by the road (4m.), 
and then to descend by a mule path 
straight to the Pont St. Bruno {\ hr. ), 
3J m. from the convent (see 1. above). 
This direct descent through the woods 
is very beautiful, and brings the tra- 
veller to the convent with as little 
intercourse with tourists as possible. 

4. From Chambery by St. Pierre 
d'Entremont. — St. Pierre d'Entre- 
mont (640 m., 2,100 ft.) is a village 
finely situated in the valley of the 
Guiers Vif, and is reached in 8 m. by 
high road from Les Echelles. 

[The pedestrian may reach it by seve- 
ral mountain paths direct from Cham- 
bery in 5-6 hrs. The most interesting 
way is the carriage road (15 m.) 
over the Col du Frene (1,164 m -> 
3,819 ft.), immediately N.W. of the 
Mont Granier (1,938 m., 6,358 ft.), 
the ascent of which (Rte. C) may be 
included in the day's walk, or drive. 
From St. Pierre an interesting excur- 
sion (4 hrs. there and back) may be 
made to the sources of the Guiers Vif. 
At the village of St. Mime, an hour's 
walk off, it is necessary to take a 
guide, with a ladder and lights, by 
which to gain access to the cavern 
whence the torrent issues. A rough 
path leads thence to the Col de Vale- 
froide, whence by a steep and difficult 
descent La Buissiere or Le Touvet, in 
the Graisivaudan valley, may be 
gained in 6-7 hrs. from St. Pierre.] 

A mule path over the grassy Col de 
Bovina?it (1,666 m., 5,466 ft.) leads 
from St. Pierre to the convent in 
4 hrs., while a carriage road runs 
over the Col du Cucheron (1,081 m. , 
3,547 ft.) to St. Pierre de Chartreuse 
(10 m. ), 3 m. from the convent. 

5. From Chambery by the Col de 

la Ruchere This is a longer and less 

striking route than those described 
above. From Les Echelles the char 
road along the Guiers Vif is followed 
towards St. Pierre d'Entremont till, 
after passing through the Frou tunnel, 
a road branches off a mile before the 
Pont de Rioubrigoud (5 m. ), and 
mounts S. to the hamlet of La 
Ruchere ( 1 m. ) Hence an ascent of 



ROUTE E. CHAMBERY TO PONT DE BEAUVOISIN 195 



l£ hr. by a mule path brings the 
pedestrian to the Col de la Ruchere 
(1,400 m., 4,593 ft.)? which com- 
mands a very fine view of the neigh- 
bouring mountains. A descent of 
20 min. leads down to the Vacherie, 
where the convent cows are kept. 
J hr. farther is the Chapelle de St. 
Bruno (1. above) ; and another J hr. 
(say 4f hrs. from Les Echelles) con- 
ducts the traveller to the monastery 
itself. 

For the routes from St. Ismier, in 
the Graisivaudan, to the convent by 
the Col de St. Ismier, and the Col des 
Ayes, see Route C. 



Route E. 

CHAMBERY TO LYONS OR GRENOBLE 
BY AIGUEBELETTE AND PONT DE 
BEAUVOISIN. 

Rail in 1 hr. to Pont de Beauvoisin 

(19 m.), and in h hr. more to St. 

Andre" le Gaz junction (8 m.) 
Longer by road and path : 4 hrs. to 

Aiguebelette by St. Sulpice (12m.), 

or 7 m. by the Col. 

Between the Dent du Chat (Rte. 
A), and the way from Chambery to 
Les Echelles, described in the last 
Rte., the prolongation of the ridge of 
the Mont du Chat, called the Mont 
de PEfiine, maintains an average 
height of about 4,000 ft. On the W. 
side of the watershed, at a height of 
about 500 or 600 ft. above the level 
of the Guiers and the Rhone, is an 
extensive plateau, the southern por- 
tion of which is occupied by the lake 
of Aiguebelette. The direct route 
from Chambery to Pont de Beau- 
voisin and St. Andre le Gaz lies by 
the shores of the lake, and is one of 
the many agreeable excursions avail- 
able to travellers in this part of 
Savoy. A railway has now been con- 
structed all the way, but leisurely 



travellers do well to follow the old 
road. 

(a) By Rail.— The line to St. 
Andre, as far as St. Beron (15 m. ), 
is described in the last Route (under 
I. b. i.) as the main way to the Grande 
Chartreuse by Les Echelles. The 
Mont de l'Epine ridge is pierced by 
a long tunnel. Pont de Beauvoisin 
is only 4 m. by rail beyond St. Beron, 
and thence the line runs due W. past 
Pressins to the station of St. Andre 
le Gaz (8 m. ), which is on the main 
line from Grenoble to Lyons, 42 m. 
from the former and 40 m. from the 
latter town. 

(b) By Road. — Beyond Cognin, I m.. 
from Chambery, a foot path mounts 
in 40 min. to Vimines, and thence 
follows a very rough path, impassable 
for horses, till in 2\ hrs. from the 
city it attains the Col d' Aiguebelette 
(848 m.j 2,782 ft.), which commands 
an admirable view of the basin of 
Chambery, the Lake of Bourget, and 
the ranges of the Alps of Savoy. 

[The Col is accessible by a char 
road — the line of the ancient Roman 
road — from Chambery, which makes 
a considerable detour to the N. by 
(7m.) the village of St. Sulpice , and 
— henceforward a mule track only — 
reaches Lepin in 12 m. from Cham- 
bery. From St. Sulpice another 
road, practicable for chars, mounts 
by zigzags to the N.W., passes the 
Mont de l'Epine by a col of 1,033 m - 
(3,389 ft. ) in height, descends to (6 m. ) 
Novalaise — a village where many 
Roman medals and inscriptions have 
been found — thence bears due N. to 
MarcieuX) and follows the Flpn tor- 
rent to (10 m.) Yenne, on the Rhone, 
at the W. base of the Col du Mont 
du Chat : see below. ]] 

The mule track descends in J hr. 
from the Col d 'Aiguebelette to the 
miserable village of the same name. 
During the descent the road com- 
mands very pleasing views of the 
Lake of Aiguebelette. This tranquil 
sheet of water is about 2\ m. in length, 
and I m. wide ; on the shores and 
upon an island are various vestiges of 

O 2 



196 DAUPHINE ALPS. § 10. GRANDE CHARTREUSE DISTRICT 



the Roman occupation of this district. 
A low ridge is crossed by the char 
road between Aiguebelette and the 
equally poor village of Lepin (about 
8 m. from' Chambery), both sur- 
rounded by magnificent walnut trees. 
From Lepin the road follows the S. 
shore of the lake, and thence de- 
scends along the Tiers torrent, which 
drains the lake, as far as the village 
of La Bridoire, nearly 2 hrs. from 
Aiguebelette. To reach the valley of 
the Guiers it is now necessary to de- 
scend a deep escarpment of limestone, 
which is a continuation towards the 
N. of that pierced by the tunnel 
above Les Echelles. The main road 
makes a circuit, but there is a shorter 
foot path, which descends the face of 
the rock by steep and narrow ledges. 
From the base of the rocks the route 
passes through a rich tract, and over 
a low wooded hill to Domes sin, on 
the high road from Les Echelles, and 
about \\m. from Pont deBeauvoisin. 
This is a small town astride of the 
Guiers Vif. That stream is crossed 
by an old bridge, built by Francis I., 
and was formerly the boundary be- 
tween Dauphine and the Savoy, as it 
is now between the departments of 
the Isere and of Savoy. 

Those who have come hither from 
Chambery by either of the above 
routes, or by way of Les Echelles, 
may prolong an agreeable excursion 
by taking the tramway along the right 
bank of the Guiers to (6m.) St. Genix 
cPAoste. It is 45 m. direct by rail 
from Lyons, and l\ m. from Aoste, 
once an important Roman station, 
near the junction of the Guiers with 



the Rhone, and now a station on the 
railway from St. Andre le Gaz to 
Belley, Aoste being 12 m. from St. 
Andre, and 14m. from Belley. (Belley 
is itself only 9 m. from Virieu le 
Grand, on the main line between 
Culoz and Macon. ) From St. Genix 
a road is carried along the E. or 1. 
bank of the Rhone, at some distance 
from the stream, by which the travel- 
ler reaches (9m.) La Balme, a village 
lying at the base of a range of pre- 
cipitous rocks, pierced by many 
grottoes, or balmes, and connected by 
a suspension bridge (on the site of an 
ancient bridge, probably of Roman 
origin) with the opposite bank of the 
Rhone. Nearly opposite is an isolated 
rock, about 170 m. (558 ft. ) above the 
river, surmounted by the Fort of 
Pien-e Chdtel. The original building 
was a Carthusian monastery (founded 
in 1 381), which was seized at the 
time of the French Revolution, and 
has since served as a prison and a 
fortress. The view of the valley of 
the Rhone from the hill above the 
fort (about I hr. 's walk) is extremely 
fine. 2 m. from La Balme is 
Yenne, a small town on the Rhone, 
which, after escaping from the 
marshes near Culoz that occupy the 
depression between the Mont Colom- 
bier and the Mont du Chat (Rte. A), 
flows to the S. along the W. flank of 
the latter ridge. 

Yenne is 3 m. from the Brens sta- 
tion on the Belley railway, Belley 
being but 2\ m. from Brens. Yenne 
is also 7 m. from the Col du Mont du 
Chat (Rte. A), whereby Chambery is 
' distant 18 m. from Yenne. 



197 



CHAPTER IV. 
LOWER SAVOY. 



Section ii. 
annecy and albertville district. 

Route. 

A. Aix les Bains to Le Chatelard. The 

Bauges. 

B. Annecy to Le Chatelard. 

C. Le Chatelard to Chambery. 

D. Le Chatelard to Albertville. 

E. Albertville to Annecy. Lake of 

Annecy. 



In the last Chapter the ranges lying 
S. of the Mont Cenis railway from 
Modane to Chambery were described 
in detail. Near St. Pierre d'Albigny, 
1 5 J miles above Chambery, the river 
Arc, which has hitherto been the 
companion of the railway in its wind- 
ings, joins the Isere, into which it 
flows almost at right angles, the 
united streams then running S. to 
Grenoble through the Graisivaudan. 
N. and W. of the junction of these 
two rivers are a number of parallel 
ridges of limestone, with intervening 
valleys, broken through by a broad 
depression, where stands Chambery, 
the ancient capital of Savoy. 

A line drawn from S.S.W. to 
N.N.E. , between Grenoble and 
Sallanches, through the valley of the 
Isere, and that of its affluent, the 
Arly, marks a boundary which 
appears to have much significance in 
the orography of this portion of the 
Alpine chain. W. of that line many 
parallel ridges of limestone, rarely 
attaining 7,000 ft. in height, form a 
series of deep trenches, which are cut 
through, but not at right angles, by 
three parallel valleys. These are the 
valley of Chambery, that of the Che- 



Route. 

F. Annecy to Bonneville. 

G. Annecy to Cluses or Sallanches.. 

H. Annecy or Albertville to Sallanches 

or St. Gervais. Mont Joly. 

I. Albertville to St. Gervais by the 

Valley of Beaufort. 
K. Albertville to Bourg St. Maurice or 

Contamines by Beaufort. 
L. Beaufort to Moutiers Tarentaise. 



ran, and the still deeper hollow which 
is occupied by the Lake of Annecy 
and the valley of the Eau Morte. 
Although there are clear indications 
that the forces which have given their 
direction to these western ridges have 
also operated on the adjoining groups 
of the Tarentaise and Dauphine Alps, 
it would appear that there is a still 
closer relation between the former and 
the chain of the Jura, the S.W. ex- 
tremity of which is, the neighbouring 
department of the Ain. 

Chambery thus stands in a valley 
between two parallel systems of lime- 
stone ridges. On its W. and S. are 
the ranges of the Dent du Chat and 
of the Grande Chartreuse, both of 
which were described in the last 
Section. Those lying N. of Cham- 
bery are the subject of the present 
Section. The entire district abounds 
in agreeable scenery, and, as it is 
covered by a network of carriage 
roads and mule paths, it is easily 
accessible to ladies and even to in- 
valids. 

Joanne's 6 Savoie ' ( 1895) is the best 
and most detailed book on these 
regions. 



198 LOWER SAVOY. § ti. ANNECY DISTRICT 



SECTION ii. 

ANNECY AND ALBER TVILLE 
DISTRICT. 

It has been seen in the last Section, 
that Chambery stands in a valley be- 
tween two parallel systems of lime- 
stone ridges. The W. system is di- 
rected first to the N., then to the 
N.W., forming ultimately the Jura 
range ; its S. or Alpine end was de- 
scribed in the last Section. The E. 
system forms near Chambery the 
range of the Bauges. A glance at a j 
geological map will show that this is | 
the S.W. extremity of a zone of 
Secondary rocks traversing Savoy and 
Switzerland from W.S.W. toN.N.E., 
and associated with Eocene deposits 
which lie along its geometrical axis, 
between an outer fringe of Cretaceous 
and Jurassic rocks. The geological 
disposition of the strata here corre- 
sponds in a general way with the 
orographic relations. The prevailing 
tendency of the ridges and the main 
valleys is parallel to the general strike 
of the strata, but the whole mass is 
at intervals cut through, nearly at 
right angles, by deep valleys, often 
narrowed to mere defiles. Of this 
character is the defile of Magland, 
between Cluses and Sallanches, in the 
valley of the Arve, which forms a 
natural division between the limestone 
mountains of the Chablais and the 
Faucigny, and those which extend 
from the Arve to the Lake of Annecy. 
These are separated by the valley of 
the Arly from a group of higher 
mountains, chiefly composed of crys- 
talline and slaty rocks, which form a 
link in the chain connecting Mont 
Blanc with Belledonne and the Tail- 
lefer, on the opposite sides of the 
valley of the Romanche. This group 
(Beaufort) might have been con- 
sidered as a S.W. prolongation of 
the chain of Mont Blanc ; but if, 
following the example of most geo- 
graphers, we consider the latter to be 
limited by the Montjoie valley and 



the track over the Col du Bonhomme, 
it appears most convenient (though 
not strictly included in the title of 
Lhis Chapter) to unite it in the present 
Section with the limestone ranges W. 
of the Arly. 

The limits of the region described 
in this Section are therefore as 
follows : on the S. the Isere, from 
Bourg St. Maurice to its union with 
the Arc, near St. Pierre d'Albigny ; 
on the W. the railway line from Cham- 
ber}' through Aix les Bains and 
Annecy to Bonneville ; on the N. 
the railway in the Arve valley 
from Bonneville to near St. Gervais ; 
and on the E. the track over the Col 
du Bonhomme from the Arve valley 
to Bourg St. Maurice. Within these 
limits three main mountain groups 
may be distinguished. Between 
Chambery and Annecy, with its lake, 
are the limestone ridges of the Bauges, 
(Rtes. A, B, C, and D), of which 
I Le Cbatelard, in the upper Cheran 
valley, is the natural centre for a 
visitor. Then between Annecy and 
, its lake, and the Arve valley, but W. 
of the Arly, there is the second lime- 
stone range (Rtes. F, G, and H). 
This is most easily accessible (from 
the S.) from the route between 
, Annecy and Albertville (Rte. E), 
while Thones is the most central 
point in this group, as the ascents of 
the Tournette, Charvin, and other 
i agreeable excursions may be made 
therein. E. and S. of the Arly and 
i N. of the middle reach of the Isere is 
| the third group, the non-limestone 
one of Beaufort (Rtes. I, K, and L). 
i The country surrounding the chief 
hamlet, Beaufort (sometimes called 
\ St. Maxime de Beaufort) is not less 
interesting than that of the other 
groups, and presents a striking con- 
trast in the character of its scenery, 
owing to the different nature of the 
rocks which there prevail. 

Most of the territory included jn 
this Section lies in that portion of 
Savoy which was neutralized in 1815 
\ (by the Congress of Vienna and the 
I Treaty of Paris) by the Great Powers. 



ROUTE A. AIX LES BAINS TO LE CHATELARD 199 



The exact division is marked by a 
line to be drawn from the S. end of 
the Lac du Bourget(a little S,, there- 
fore, of Aix les Bains) slightly- N. E. 
through Lescheraines (just N.W. of Le 
Chatelard) and Faverges to Ugines 
(taking in this town), and thence 
along the ridge to the N. of the 
Hauteluce glen to ' Les Aiguilles 5 
(at the junction of this ridge, with 
that coming from the Mont Joly), 
then bending S. by the Col Joly to 
the Col du Bonhomme, and then 
N.E. along the watershed of the 
chain of Mont Blanc. 

For further details as to the district 
described below, see Joanne's large and 
accurate 'Savoie 5 (1895), and also, for 
the Bauges group, a monograph by 
M. Bartoli in vol. xix. of the ' Annuaire 
du Club Alpin Francais. ' Though 
little known to English travellers, 
this district abounds in agreeable 
scenery, and is full of interest to the 
naturalist and to the geologist. 



Route A. 

AIX LES BAINS TO LE CHATELARD. 
THE BAUGES. 

As stated in the Introduction to this 
Chapter, the Bauges mountains (the 
highest summit of which is the Pecloz 
(2,260 m., 7,415 ft.), near the ruined 
monastery of Bellevaux, Rte. D) con- 
sist of a series of parallel ridges run- 
ning from N. N. E. to S. S. W. , bounded 
on the N. by the Lake of Annecy and 
the valley of the Eau Morte, and on 
the S. by the basin of Chambery, 
while they are cut through in the 
midst by the valley of the Cheran. 
These ridges form a distinct district, 
which long preserved from very early 
times its own peculiar manners and 
customs, and where even now, with 
the exception of an occasional natu- 
ralist, strangers are but rarely seen. 
Possessing unusually fine pastures, the 



district abounds in cattle, and cheese 
is the chief product. Excepting in 
the chief village, Le Chatelard, the 
population was dispersed in small 
communities, or clans, which had a 
system of internal self-government 
essentially republican ; the general 
manager, the head dairy woman, and 
the chief herdsman being elected by 
the clan. An excursion of two or three 
days from Aix or Annecy to Le Chate- 
lard, and thence by one of the passes 
that lead to Chambery, will interest 
a traveller curious to observe ever* 
the last traces of the primitive cus- 
toms of a secluded people. It is said 
that within recent years increased 
communication with the outer world 
has greatly modified the traditional 
existence of its inhabitants. 

The Bauges form a great highland 
plateau, surrounded by a rampart of 
steep rocks, of which the most westerly 
bastion, called the Dent duNivolet,is 
well seen from Chambery. The Cheran 
valley alone pierces this huge ram- 
part, and so affords the easiest means 
of access to the upper plateau. Many 
foot passes lead over the edge of this 
plateau, and there are several carriage 
roads over other passes, the chief 
being those from Aix les Bains and 
from Annecy. The former runs for 
the greater part of the way along 
the Cheran, and, as it is the most 
picturesque in the district, it is de- 
scribed first. Brief notices are then 
given of some foot passes from Aix to 
Le Chatelard. Probably the most 
direct way from Aix to Le Chatelard 
is to go by the funicular railway from 
Aix in \\ hr. to the top of the 
Grand Revard, 1,545 m., 5,069 ft. 
(§ 10. Rte. A), part of the Montague 
de la Cluse, just E. of Aix, and then 
to descend S.E. through a magnificent 
forest to the Col de Planpalais 
(Rte. C. 1), and so by Lescheraines 
to Le Chatelard (3-J hrs. from the 
Revard). 

1. By Cusy. — Carriage road, \%\ 
miles (4 hrs. driving). The road runs 
N. from Aix for 2J m. to Gresy sur 
Aix -(a station on the railway to An- 



,200 



LOWER SAVOY. § 11. ANNECY DISTRICT 



necy), near which is a pretty water- 
fall, one cf the chief resorts of the 
visitors to Aix. Beyond the village 
the road gradually ascends in a N.E. 
direction along the Sierroz stream, the 
wooded gorge becoming narrower and 
narrower, to an undulating plateau, on 
a hillock in which, to the 1. of the 
road, stands the village of Cusy (8 m. 
from Aix). To the N. , on a rock 
washed by the Cheran, are the exten- 
sive ruins of an ancient castle. The 
road now makes a sharp turn to the 
S.E., ascending along the 1. bank 
of the Cheran. On the opposite bank 
are seen the hamlet of Aiguebellette 
and the castle of St. Jacques. Here 
three singular peaks, or rather obe- 
lisks of rock {Tours St. Jacques), rise 
abruptly from the valley, standing side 
by side, with an interval of but a few 
yards between them. (Near here a 
side road crosses the Cheran by a fine 
suspension bridge, Pont de PAbime) 
308 ft. high, to the road from Annecy 
byGruffy to Le Chatelard, Rte. B. 1). 
The road is still carried along the 1. 
bank of the Cheran at a considerable 
height above the river, and about 4 m. 
beyond Cusy passes opposite the 
village of A //eves. 12-J m. from Aix 
the Cheran is crossed by the Pont de 
Bauge, built next to an ancient bridge, 
said to be of Roman date, and 
thenceforward it keeps to the r. bank 
of the stream. (Here falls in the road 
from GrufTy already mentioned. A 
branch from it leads in 8f m. from the 
bridge to Alby, which is 5 m. from 
Albens, a station on the railway from 
Aix to Annecy. ) ^ m. beyond' the 
bridge, where the road is hemmed in 
between the rocks and the stream, is 
the entrance (J hr. off) to the Grotte 
de Bange, a cavern which contains a 
a subterranean lake, about 220 fi. be- 
low the level of the entrance, and 
approached by a gallery about 800 ft. 
in length. The lake appears to be 
about 220 ft. in circumference. Leav- 
ing on the 1. (14J m. from Aix) the 
road from Annecy by the Col de 
Leschaux (Rte. B. 1), the road to Le 
Chatelard crosses, by the Pont de la > 



I Char mat, the torrent descending from 
I that pass, leaves on the r. hand a 
I bridge leading over the Cheran to the 
I hamlet of Lescheraines, and in 5| m. 

from the Pont de Bange reaches 
: (18J m. from Aix) Le Chatelard, the 
chief village in the Bauges, and 819 m. 
\ (2,687 ft-) high. It is composed of a 
I single long street, backed by a steep 
j escarpment of rock, and bathed on 
three sides by the Cheran. It was re- 
built after the disastrous fire of 1867, 
which spared only the church and a 
few houses. On the opposite side of 
the valley rises the steep ridge of the 
Dent de Rossane (1,910 m. , 6,267 ft- )? 
and to the S.E. opens the picturesque 
upper valley of the Cheran. Beyond 
the church and the cemetery are the 
shapeless ruins of the old castle, which 
stands on a rock above the village, and 
commands a very fine view of the 
valley and of the surrounding moun- 
tains. In a much better state of pre- 
servation is the Chateau des Entries, 
\ hr. to the N. The chief ascent is 
that of the Mont Trelod (2,186 m. , 
7,172 ft. ), on the N. E. , which may be 
made in 4 hrs. by way of Cul du Bois 
(Rte. B. 3). 

2. By the Col de Prabarno. — Mule 
path. 5 \ hrs. ' walking. On leaving 
Aix r a road mounts N.E. till 
beyond Montcel it becomes a mule 
path by which the village of St. Of- 
fenge dessus is reached in I f hr. from 
Aix. Thence a steep and stony mule 
path leads up E. to the pass ( 1 , 436 m. , 
4,711 ft.), also called Colde Pre Bar- 
naud (2J hrs. from Aix). It com- 
mands a fine view of the Lake of 
Bourget to the W. , and of the Lake of 
Annecy to the N. E. The path from the 
Col winds down amidst rich pastures, 
passing some chalets and the hamlet of 
Montagny, to Arith ( 1^ hr. ), a rather 
large village overlooking the valley of 
the Cheran. A steep descent leads 
to a bridge over the lateral stream of 
St. Francois (descending from the Col 
de Planpalais past the hamlet of Le 
Noyer, Rte. C. 1), and soon after (10 
min. from Arith) to the Pont de Lesche- 
raines over the Cheran, beyond which 



ROUTE A. AIX LES BAINS TO LE CHATELARD 201 



the road from Aix by Cusy is soon 
joined, and followed for 3^ m. to Le 
Chatelard. 

3. By the Col de la Cochette.—Vn- 
interesting mule path. 5J- hrs. The 
Col de la Cochette (1,388 m. , 4,554ft. ) 
is a notch sharply cut into a rocky 
ridge, and is about \ m. further S. 
than the Col de Prabarno. The ap- 
proach to it on both sides is some- 
what longer and steeper. From Aix 
the route of the Col de Prabarno is 
followed to St. Offenge dessus, whence 
it is necessary to bear S. E. past several 
hamlets, so as to gain the Col (3^ hrs. 
from Aix), the deep notch of which is 
seen from the neighbourhood of Aix. 
Descending due E. the path of the 
Col de Prabarno is joined in I hr. at 
Montagny, and followed thenceforth. 

4. By the Pas de la Cluse. — Char 
road. 5|- hrs. The road mounts N.E. 
from Aix, and, ultimately ascend- 
ing through a wooded ravine, 
attains in about 1 hr. the village of 
Trevignin. It then bears to the r. 
round the N. W. end of the Montagne 
de la Cluse past the highest hamlet, 
Decampoux. Thence it winds for a 
considerable distance round the head 
of the glen whose torrent joins the 
Sierroz below St. Offenge, partly over 
a rocky slope, partly through woods. 
The highest point is passed in travers- 
ing a ridge of rock before reaching the 
pass. (In following this route from 
Le Chatelard to Aix, it is necessary to 
avoid a path which descends the glen 
towards the Sierroz, as that involves a 
considerable detour. ) Nearly 3 hrs. 
from Aix are required to reach the 
Pas de la Cluse, a depression (1,450 
m. , 4,757 ft.) between grass-grown 
rounded knolls, that leads into the 
valley of Le Noyer, one of the af- 
fluents of the Cheran. A few minutes 
below the pass is a chalet with a 
spring, and before long the road gains 
a point where it overlooks the valley 
of Le Noyer, and commands a fine 
view of the principal ridges of the 
Bauges. Exactly opposite is the ridge 
of the Mont de Margerias (1,846 m., 
6,057 ft.) ; beyond it to the 1. is the 



! Dent de Rossane (1,910m., 6, 267 ft. ), 
between the Aillon valley and Le 
Chatelard; then the Pointe d^Arcalod 
(2,225 m., 7,300 ft.), or the Pecloz 
(2,260 m., 7,415 ft.), and the Mont 
Trelod (2,186 m., 7,172 ft.) The 
road descends gradually, winding at 
mid-height along the side of the valley 
of Le Noyer, and in little more than 
1 hr. reaches Arith, whence the route 
of the Col de Prabarno (2. above) is 
followed to Le Chatelard. 



Route B. 

ANNECY TO LE CHATELARD. 

There is now a direct carriage road 
from Annecy to Le Chatelard over 
the Col de Leschaux, but to a pedes- 
trian either of the two mountain paths 
(indicated below) leading from the S. 
end of the Lake of Annecy to the 
upper Cheran valley will be found 
more interesting. 

I. By the Col de Leschaux. — Car- 
riage road : 18 miles, traversed by the 
diligence in 3 hrs. It is best taken in 
the reverse direction, on account of the 
fine views over the lake. From An- 
necy the road along the W. shore of 
lake is followed for 2| m. to Sevrier. 
I Here the road to Le Chatelard mounts 
gradually in a S. direction along the 
lower slopes of the Semnoz, making 
many great zigzags, and running high 
above the wooded glen on the 1. It 
commands many fine views over the 
lake and towards the Tournette. In 
this way a plateau covered with hum- 
mocks is gained, and soon after the 
Col de Leschaux, 904 m. , 2,966 ft. 
(10 m. from Annecy.) The main 
hamlet of Leschaux is just to the 
W. of the Col, the church being close 
to it. 

[This is the starting point for the 
ascent of the Semnoz, a long ridge to 
the N.N.W. Its highest point, Cret 
de Chdtillcn (1,704 m., 5,591 ft.), 



202 



LOWER SAVOY. § u. ANNECY DISTRICT 



may be reached by mule path in 
hr. from the village ; 10 min. 
below the top there is a large inn. 
The view from the summit is so fine 
that this point has been called the 
4 Rigi of Savoy. ' Besides the three 
lakes of Bourget, Annecy, and Ge- 
neva, all the chief summits of the 
Dauphine, Savoy, and Vallais Alps 
are well seen. It is possible to de- 
scend from the summit direct to 
Annecy, but a local guide is required 
through the immense forest which 
clothes the N. end of the Semnoz 
ridge. The ' Tour du Semnoz ' may 
be made by following the Col de 
Leschaux road to its junction with that 
from Aix by Cusy, then the latter to the 
Pont de Bange, whence another road 
leads by Alleves and Gruffyio Annecy, 
13J m. from the Pont de Bange. 3 

The road towards Le Chatelard 
descends through bits of the scat- 
tered village of Leschaux, along the 
r. bank of the stream, and past the 
hamlet of Glapigny, making numerous 
zigzags till near the Pont de la 
Charniat (14 m. from Annecy) it joins 
that from Aix by Cusy (Rte. A. 1), 
which is followed for 4 m. to Le 
Chatelard. A little way before the 
junction a detour of 10 min. suffices 
to visit the Pont du Diable^ thrown 
picturesquely over the Charniat at a 
point where it has cut a deep and 
narrow cleft through the rock. 

2. By the Golet. — From Duingt, 
the most picturesque point on the W. 
shore of the Lake of Annecy, it is easy 
to mount due S. past the solitary hamlet 
of Entrevei'ites to the pass of Le Golet 
(1,384 m., 4,541 ft.), whence the de- 
scent is made to Bellecombe, on the W. , 
from which a road leads past Entreve 
to the Col de Leschaux road, not far 
above the Pont de la Charniat. 

3. By the Col de Bornette, or the 
Col de Cherel. — Both these passes 
lead from Doussard, 1 \ m. from the 
S. end of the Lake of Annecy. The 
former lies W. of, the latter E. of, 
the ridge of the Mont Trelod (2, 1 86 m. , 
7,172 ft.) The Col de Bornette 
(1,315 m., 4,314 ft.) takes 6§ hrs., 



the ascent to the pass lying up the 
Bornette glen, S.W. of Doussard. 
On the other side the path goes down 
pastures to the hamlet of Cul du Bois, 
whence a char road runs in 5 m. to 
Le Chatelard. 

[From a point about 2 m. above 
Cul du Bois easy shepherds' paths 
lead S.E. (turning a steep wall of 
rocks) to the summit of the Mont 
Trelod (2 hrs.), whence there is a 
very striking view. This ascent is 
interesting to the botanist for the rare 
plants, such as Cephalalgia alpina y 
Pedicularis Barrelieri, &c. , which 
have been found on the mountain. 3 

To gain the Col de Cherel (7J hrs. 
from one place to the other) from 
Doussard it is necessary to bear S.E. 
past the hamlet of Chevaline by a 
mule path up the Grande Combe, at 
the head of which is the pass (1,501m., 
4,925 ft.) The descent lies rather 
S.W. to Jarsy, below which the tra- 
veller soon reaches the village of Ecole, 
l\ m. from Le Chatelard by the road 
of the Col du Frene (Rte. C. 4). 



Route C. 

LE CHATELARD TO CHAMBERY. 

The Bauges are traversed in all di- 
rections by paths, for the most part 
of no difficulty, and also by several 
carriage roads. It is, therefore, easy 
to multiply the routes which a tra- 
veller may, if so minded, discover for 
himself. It will be sufficient in this 
and the following Rte. to indicate the 
most interesting ways by which a 
traveller, having come from Aix or 
Annecy, may gain Chambery or 
Albertville. 

1. By the Col de Planpalais. — 
Carriage road, 21 m. — From Le 
Chatelard the high road down the 
Cheran valley is followed for 3 \ m. , 
when it is left to cross that river by 
the Pont de Lescheraines. This road 



ROUTE C. LE CHATELARD TO CHAMBERY 



203 



mounts past the village of Lesckeraines 
(opposite Arith, Rte. A. 2), along 
the r. bank of the stream up the 
Le Noyer (now called St. Francois) 
glen. The village of Le Noyer (op- 
posite that of St. Francois de Sales), 
840 m., 2,756 ft.) is traversed (7-§m. 
from Le Chatelard), and beyond a 
well-shaded road ascends to the Col 
de Planpalais, 1,180 m., 3,872 ft. 
[il J m. ) (There is a bad road on the 
1. bank of the glen, by which the 
traveller passes near the remains of a 
Roman aqueduct, partly cut into the 
rock, and known to the natives as 
La Creche. ) The summit of the Col 
is a grassy plateau, with many knolls. 
(Hence it is easy to go N.W. through 
a fine pine forest to the Grand Revard 
(1,545 m., 5,069 ft.), whence there is 
a funicular railway down to Aix 
(Rte. A. above, and § 10. Rte. A). 

A gentle descent of 2\ m. leads to 
the village of Les Deserts, standing on 
a plateau between the Mont de Mar- 
gerias (1,846 m., 6,057 ft.) on the 
E. and the Dent dn Nivolet (1,553m., 
5^095 ft. ), the most advanced bastion 
of the Bauges, on the W. 

[The former summit may be gained 
by a rough climb by its S.E. ridge 
from the Col d'Averne. But the 
view is decidedly inferior to that ob- 
tained from the lower yet better 
situated Dent du Nivolet. This point 
is crowned by a huge cross, con- 
spicuous from Chamber}', and may 
be gained by easy paths in \\ hr. 
from Les Deserts, the mule path 
making a round by the Col de Plan- 
palais. The walk hence to the Grand 
Revard, on the N. , lies over fine pas- 
tures, and, as it takes only 2 hrs., is 
recommended, since from the Revard 
the funicular railway affords an easy 
means of gaining Aix or Chambery. 3 

The road descends along the j 
r. bank of the Leisse torrent, 
gradually rounds the rocky base of j 
the Mont Pennay, bends S.W. \ 
to reach St. Jean d' 'Arz'ey (17 m. ), 
and continues along the same bank 
through very agreeable scenery to 
Chambery (21 m. ) 



2. By the Col des Pres. — Char 
road, 2o\ m. Nearly opposite Le 
Chatelard is the opening of the pic- 
turesque glen of Aillon. The road 
thither crosses the Cheran a little 
below the village (that to the Col du 
Frene, 4. below, being left on the 1. 
hand), and after passing several small 
hamlets reaches Aillon le Vieux 
(3f m. ), a village at the W. foot of 
the Dent de Rossane. (Hence the 
Mont Margerias ( 1 , 846 m. , 6, 05 7 ft. ) , 
on the S.W., can be easily ascended 
in 2 hrs. ) 4J m. higher up the glen 
is the last village, Aillon le Jeune, 
on the 1. bank of the stream. (The 
route to the Col de Lindar (3. below) 
and the Chartreuse d' Aillon here 
branches off to the S.E.) The 
direct route to Chambery now lies 
S.S.W. up a short glen, and in 2 m. 
from Aillon le Jeune attains the Col 
des Pres, 1,142 m., 3,747 ft. (10 m. 
from Le Chatelard. ) It descends for 
some distance in a S. direction, then 
bends W. round the S. end of the 
Mont de la Croix, and reaches 
Thoiry (i2jm. ) (This is the best 
starting point for the ascent of the 
Mont Margerias, reached in about 
3 hrs. ) The road goes down by 
many zigzags in 1 3- m. to that from 
the Col de Planpalais, which is joined 
a little way above St. Jean d'Arvey. 

3. By the Col de Lindar. — Char 
road all the way, save between the 
Correrie and Ginotin, where there is 
a mule path. 6 or 7 hrs. From the 
bridge below the village of Aillon le 
Jeune, on the Col des Pres road, that 
to the Col de Lindar mounts S.E. 
through a narrow defile to the hamlet 
of La Corre?'ie (20 min. ), which has 
an ancient chapel, formerly dependent 
on the neighbouring monastery. 

[Hence it is worth making a detour 
of \ hr. to the N. to visit the old 
Carthusian monastery of Aillon. The 
gorge in which it is situated is an 
enclosure formed by steep mountain 
ridges, and forms a natural trough, 
with this single opening (excepting 
some rough foot passes), so narrow 
that it was formerly closed by a gate. 



204 LOWER SAVOY. § n. 



ALBERTVILLE DISTRICT 



In this secluded spot is the Char- 
treuse d'Aillon, founded in the last 
quarter of the twelfth century. It 
received rich endowments from many 
princes of the House of Savoy, but 
lost them all in 1792. Parts of the 
domestic and out buildings are now 
used for farm purposes, but there seem 
to be no other remains of this once 
powerful house. The rich pastures 
in the Aillon glen produce the best 
kind of the cheese, called vacherin^ 
for which the Bauges are famous. J 

In about 1 nr. from the Correrie the 
Col de Lindar (1,192 m., 3,911 ft.), 
to the S., is attained. 

[It lies E. of the pointed summit of 
the Poi7ite de la Galoppaz (1,686 m., 
5,532 ft.), apeak commanding a very 
line view of the valley of the Isere. 
It may be gained hence easily in 
2 hrs. , or in rather longer time by its 
W. flank from Thoiry, on the Col des 
Pres route. J 

During the ascent on the W. side of 
the Col the botanist may find Lactuca 
Plumieri) Tozzia alpiiza, Tulipa cel- 
siana, and other rare plants. The 
path descends through a wood, and 
bifurcates at a point whence the 
traveller must go r. if bound for 
Chambery direct, and 1. if he desires 
:o gain at Ginotin ( J hr. ) the char road 
leading to Cruet station. 

If bound to Chambery the road 
leads past Rotigere to the picturesque 
village of La Thtiile (1 hr. from the 
Col), on the shore of a pretty lake, 
and at the N. foot of a ridge which 
on the S. side immediately overlooks 
Montmelian. Hence it is a walk of 
10 m. N.W. to Chambery, along the 
1. bank of the Leisse, past Curienne, 
the Col de Planpalais road being 
joined between St. Jean d'Arvey and 
Chambery. It is also possible to 
descend along the r. bank past 
Puigros. 

If bound to Cruet the road descends 
thither from Ginotin by great zigzags, 
Cruet being a station on the Mont 
Cenis railway, 4 m. from St. Pierre 
d'Albigny, and njm. from Cham- 
bery. 



4. By the Col du Frene. — Carnage 
road. About 12 m. to St. Pierre 
d'Albigny station, which is 15-J m. by 
rail from Chambery, and 15 m. also 
by rail from Albertville. Though it 
involves a considerable detour, this is 
perhaps the easiest way of reaching 
Chambery from Le Chatelard. By 
taking the short cuts a pedestrian 
may much abridge the distance on 
the descent from the Col to St. Pierre. 
From Le Chatelard the road descends 
to the level of the Cheran, and crosses 
to its 1. bank, along which it runs for 
3J m. to the pretty village of Ecole, 
at the junction of the Sainte Reine 
and Jarsy glens with the main valley. 
The road mounts nearly due S. 
through the pretty pasture valley of 
Ste. Reine, passing below the main 
hamlet of that name. The highest 
hamlet is Rotithennes, 6f m. from 
Le Chatelard. Thence a gentle 
ascent leads in 2 m. more to the 
Col du Frene (956 m., 3,137 ft.), 
which commands a very fine view of 
the valley of the Isere and of the 
ranges beyond it. Long zigzags 
(easily cut off by a pedestrian) bring 
the traveller down to the village of 
St. Pierre d'Albigny, which is rather 
more than a mile from the station of 
that name (§ 7. Rte. A, and 12. 
Rte. A). 



Route D. 

LE CHATELARD TO ALBERTVILLE. 

Carriage road to the Nant Forchu, 
then foot path. 7 hrs. 

There are several passes by which, 
Albertville may be more or less directly 
gained from Le Chatelard, all passing 
through the uppermost bit of the 
Cheran valley, which is here called the 
Bellevaux glen. 

For 3^ m. from Le Chatelard the 
road is that to the Col du Frene. 
At the hamlet of Ecole the traveller 



ROUTE D. LE CHATELARD TO ALBERTVILLE 205 



bears S.E. first on the r., then on the 
1. bank of the Cheran, through the 
very savage, well-wooded, and most 
secluded gorge of Bellevaux, to (f hr. 
from Ecole) the ruins of the eleventh- 
century Benedictine monastery of 
Bellevaux. Not much survives be- 
yond the walls, in consequence of a 
great fire in 1825. The site is now 
a fine meadow. The position of the 
monastery is most picturesque, at the 
junction of three mountain torrents, 
and just at the W. foot of the Pecloz 
(2,260 m., 7,415 ft.), the loftiest 
summit in the Bauges, which is acces- 
sible thence in 2^-3 hrs. by its W. 
ridge. 10 min. from the ruins is the 
Holy Well of Notre Dame de Belle- 
vaux, a sanctuary of great local fame. 
The well itself is now built into the 
wall of a newly-constructed chapel. 

[By following the S.W. glen from 
the ruins the traveller may by a very 
rough path reach the Col d Arclusaz 
(1,773 m -> 5> 8l 7 ft -)> S.E. of the 
peak of the Dent d* Arclusaz (2,046 m. , 
6,713 ft.), which may be thence as- 
cended. A path descends in many 
zigzags from the pass to Freterive, a 
hamlet rather N.E. of St. Pierre 
d'Albigny.] 

The direct way to Albertville lies 
N.E. up the Cheran or Bellevaux 
glen. The river is crossed several 
times, and the prettily situated hamlet 
of Bellevaux passed before reaching 
the spot known as £ Nant Forchu ' 
(2§ hrs. from Le Chatelard), so called 
from the fork formed by the two 
ravines of Orgeval and Haut du Four. 
Close by is the traditional source of 
the Cheran, trickling from a rock 
called 6 La Fougere? but the Hautdu 
Four torrent is the real source of that 
river. 

[Hence a track mounts due N. 
through the Orgeval ravine to the pass of 
the same name (1,758 m., 5,768 ft.), 
said to be the highest pass in theBauges. 
It leads down the wooded glen of St. 
Ruphto Settenez and Faverges, reached 
in 6 hrs. from Le Chatelard. J 

The foot path to Albertville 
ascends N.E. from the Nant Fourchu 



through the ravine of Ho,ut du 
F^our on the r. bank of the torrent 
(not the L, as on the maps), finally 
bearing E. to the Col du Haul du 
Four, 1,506 m., 4,941 ft. (4J-5 hrs, 
from Le Chatelard. ) Hence there is 
a fine view over the Isere valley, as 
well as of the snowy peaks of Dauphin e 
and the chain of Mont Blanc. (From 
the Col it is easy to attain in ij hr. 
by a path, well marked but leading 
across very steep grass slopes, the 
summit of the Pointe Chaurionde 
(2,291 m., 7,517 ft.), commanding 
an extremely fine view, specially 
of the Tarentaise peaks, and of the 
blue Lake of Annecy at the spectator's 
feet. ) From the Col two paths lead 
down. That to the 1. runs slightly 
N.E. to the Col de Tamie (Rte. E), 
between Albertville and Faverges. 
That to the r. descends steeply to the 
village of Plancherine (1 hr. from the 
Col), whence the road from the Col 
de Tamie (Rte. E), keeping up to 
the L, brings the traveller down in 
5 m. to Albertville. 



Route E. 

ALBERTVILLE TO ANNECY. 

Carriage road on either side of the lake, 
28 m. Steamer on the lake from 
Bout du Lac to Annecy. By diligence 
and steamer from Albertville to An- 
necy, 5 hrs. ; in the reverse direction, 
4 hrs. Railway in construction. 

M. 

Fontaines d'Ugines . 5 

Faverges . . . . 12 1 
Bout du Lac . . . 17^ 
Annecy. .... 28 

The road from Albertville runs N. 
along the r. bank of the Arly, passing 
opposite the opening of the Beaufort 
valley (Rte. I), amidst very pleasing 
scenery, enlivened by the numerous 
villages which lie on the E. slope of 
the Belle Etoile ridge on the L hand, 
The Chaise torrent is crossed just 



206 LOWER SAVOY. § n. ANNECY DISTRICT 



above its junction with the Arly, in 
order to gain the village of Fontaines 
(PUgines, at the foot of the rising 
ground on which stands ( I mile distant 
by road) the town of Ugines. (At 
Fontaines the road to Chamonix by 
Flumet turns off to the E. , Rte. H. ) 
The high road ascends N.W. along 
the 1. bank of the Chaise to Mar lens. 
At that village the valley bends to the 
S.W. ; the road keeps to the 1. bank 
until it crosses the stream (at the 
mouth of the Serraval glen, Rte. Y.2.b) 
in order to traverse the very low pass 
which separates the Chaise from the 
waters of the Eau Morte, flowing to the 
Lake of Annecy. Soon after it reaches 

Faverges, a rather large country 
town, with iron works (whence the 
origin of its name, Fabricez), and mills 
for spinning silk. The summit of 
Mont Blanc is seen from the town, and 
the neighbouring hills (accessible in 
4 or 5 hrs. ) all command fine views. 

[A more interesting way of reach- 
ing Faverges from Albertville is 
by the Col de Tamie (a very fine 
excursion), now traversed by a carriage 
road, I if m. in length. From 
Albertville the road passes under the 
Fort du Villard, then mounts by zig- 
zags through vineyards and fields, 
commanding very fine views of the 
basin of Albertville and of the Isere 
valley as far as St. Pierre d'Albigny, 
to the village of Plancherine (5 m. ) 
More zigzags lead up in 2\ m. more 
to the pass (806 m., 2,644 ft- ), which 
commands a fine view of the Isere 
valley. This low pass separates the 
mountains at the head of the Belle- 
vaux glen (Rte. D) (which may be 
gained by a traverse W. to the Col du 
Haut du Four) from the Belle Etoile 
ridge. The latter ridge may be con- 
sidered as the connecting link be- 
tween the Bauges and the range of the 
Mont Charvin, being separated from 
the latter only by the valley of the 
Chaise, through which the high road 
runs between Fontaines d'Ugines and 
Faverges. The summit of the Belle 
Etoile (1,846 m., 6,057 ft. ) may be 
reached in 2\ hrs. from the Col by a 



thick forest and pastures ; avoid care- 
fully the S. arete. 

1 \ m. on the Faverges side of the Col 
is the fortress-like abbey of Tamie , 
founded in 1 132, by the Cistercians, 
and half ruined at the French Revolu- 
tion, but of late years occupied by 
Trappists. There are a few good carv- 
ings in the older buildings. The road 
descends through the picturesque 
gorge of Tamie, leaving Settenez 
(whence a track crosses the Col 
d'Orgeval to Le Chatelard, Rte. D) 
on the L, to Faverges. J 

[From Faverges the Mont Charvin 
(2,414 m., 7,920 ft.), on the N.E. — 
an excursion recommended to botan- 
ists — may be ascended by way of 
Serraval (5 J m. by the road of the 
Col de Serraval to Thones), whence 
the summit is gained in about 4 hrs. 
But the excursion especially to be re- 
commended to the mountaineer is the 
ascent of the Tournette (2,357 m., 
7,733 ft.), a long limestone ridge 
whose S. end rises from the little plain 
of Faverges, and whose steep W. 
! slopes face the Lake of Annecy. 
The ascent is made from Faverges by 
way of the Montmin glen, which opens 
out into the Eau Morte valley at Vil- 
lard, halfway between Faverges and 
Bout du Lac. There is a road to the 
village of Montmin, 2^-3 hrs. from 
either of these places. Thence 4 hrs. 
more are required to gain the summit 
by the Lars pastures. This is the 
i easiest way, as by it mules can go to 
I within 1 nr. of the top. The route 
I from Thones (Rte. F) is longer, and 
1 that from Talloires (see below), though 
the shortest of the three, is also the 
steepest and most laborious. The 
best plan is to mount from Faverges or 
Thones, and to descend to Talloires ; 
in each case the ascent requires 
at least 6 hrs., and the descent 
about 3-4 hrs. , so that, allowing for 
halts, it is a good day's work. It 
is not prudent to start without a 
guide, as the time lost in seeking the 
way may compromise the result of 
the excursion. The crest of the 
mountain (about 7,500 ft.) is a ridge 



ROUTE E. ALBERTVILLE TO ANNECY 



207 



which spreads out into a platform, 
surmounted by a sort of rock tower 
about 65 ft. high, the walls of which 
are not merely vertical, but in some 
cases actually overhang their base. 
This rock is called the Fauteuil, and 
its summit is reached in J hr. by a 
fissure or chimney, in which an iron 
rope has now been fixed for the bene- 
fit of persons liable to giddiness. The 
view combines the Lake of Annecy 
and a portion of the Lake of Geneva, 
with a grand Alpine panorama. It is 
probable, however, that the nearer 
view of Mont Blanc and the other 
Alps of Savoy from the Mont Charvin 
is in some respects superior. J 

From Faverges to Annecy the tra- 
veller has the choice between roads on 
either side of the Lake of Annecy, or 
he may avail himself (the pleasantest 
way, as the scenery is charming and 
all the villages on both shores are well 
seen) of the little steamer on the very 
pretty lake, which takes 1 J- hr. from 
Bout du Lac, the port of Doussard, to 
Annecy. The diligence travels by 
the road on the W. shore of the 
lake. 

{a) By the W. Shore. — From 
Faverges the road crosses and re- 
crosses the Eau Morte, and leaves on 
the r. the marshy plain at the head of 
the lake formed from the detritus of 
that stream. It passes near the 
village of Doussard (whence tracks 
lead over the Cols de Cherel and 
de Bornette to Le Chatelard, Rte. B. 
3) before it reaches (5 m. from 
Faverges) the S. end of the lake, at 
the S.W. corner of which is the land- 
ing place of Bout du Lac, whence 
start the steamers. 2 m. beyond is 
the castle and village of Duingt. 
The castle stands in a very striking 
position on a promontory, which 
greatly narrows the ordinary width of 
the lake. The Tournette is par- 
ticularly impressive from Duingt. 
(For the pass of the Golet to Le 
Chatelard, see Rte. B. 2.) Thence 
the road runs along the shore of the 
lake, passing St. Jorioz and Sevrier 
(here the road over the Col de Les- 



chaux to Le Chatelard branches off. 
Rte. B. 1), to Annecy. (For a de- 
scription of this town, see below. ) 

(5) By the E. Shore. — The road is 
more hilly than that on the other 
shore, and practically the very inte- 
resting villages on this side of the lake 
are most easily reached by means of 
the steamer. Opposite Doussard a 
bridge crosses to the r. bank of the 
Eau Morte, near Verthier, and skirt- 
ing the E. shore of the lake, in about 
5 m. from the bridge reaches Tal- 
loires (488 m., 1,601 ft. ), nearly oppo- 
site Duingt. This is perhaps the most 
picturesquely situated village on the 
lake, and is now largely frequented by 
guests in summer. Its climate, even 
in winter, is very mild. There are 
remains of the great Benedictine mo- 
nastery (eleventh century), while part 
of the buildings of the more recent 
monastery are now used as a hotel. 
[Hence the Tournette (2,357 m., 
! 7>733 can be reached in 5-6 hrs. 
I by way of the pilgrimage chapel of St. 
I Germain (the path by La Closette is 
much shorter), the Loo or l'Haut cha- 
let, and the Cassey hut. The Col du 
Nantet leads from Talloires, by the 
chalets of the same name, not far from 
Loo, in about 4 J hrs. to Thones.J 

Less than 2 m. beyond Talloires is 
Menthon, also a favourite summer so- 
! journing place. It has remains of 
Roman baths, and of piles of Roman 
masonry projecting into the lake, de- 
signed to serve as a reservoir for the 
baths. The castle dates back in part 
as far as the thirteenth century. A 
: room in it is still pointed out as 
the birthplace of St. Bernard of Men- 
; thon (eleventh century), the second 
\ founder of the Hospice on the Great 
, St. Bernard, and the founder of that 
on the Little St. Bernard. 

Annecy is an important town of 
nearly 12,000 inhabitants, and the 
capital of the Department of Haute 
Savoie. It possesses many thriving 
factories, partly worked by the water 
of the lake, which is conveyed through 
the town to the river Fier in artificial 
channels of great antiquity. The 



208 



LOWER SAVOY. 



ii. ANNECY DISTRICT 



Cathedral church (sixteenth century), 
the former Dominican church of St. 
Maurice (fifteenth century), and that 
of the Visitation (nineteenth century), 
as now containing the remains of St. 
Francois de Sales (d. 1622), are 
worth a visit. In the old (S. ) portion 
of the town picturesque narrow streets 
and streams are inextricably mixed up. 
On rising ground N. of the present 
town is Annecy le Vieux, whose Roman 
origin is attested by many medals, 
urns, and fragments of statuary. It 
now possesses a famous bell-foundry, 
w T here was cast the great bell, named 
6 La Savoyarde,' for the new church 
of the Sacre Cceur on Montmartre. 
The lake is 1,465 ft. above the sea, 
8 1 m. long, and from 1 to 2 m. broad. 
Its superficial area is i6| m., and its 
greatest depth is 264 ft. Many agree- 
able walks and drives are to be found 
in the neighbourhood of Annecy. 
There is a fine promenade along the 
N. end of the lake. The ascent of the 
Tournette has already been described 
in this Rte. ; that of the Parmelan 
will be found in the next Rte., and 
that of the Semnoz, from the Col de 
Leschaux, in Rte. B. 1. 

The railway to Annemasse and 
Cluses is described in the next Rte. 
There is also a line (25 m. traversed 
in \\ hr. or so) to Aix les Bains. 
This is the shortest way to Cham- 
bery, but Geneva is most quickly 
reached by way of Annemasse. 
On the old road to Geneva by St. 
Julien (26f m. ) there is the remarkable 
wire suspension bridge of La Cat lie, 
630 ft. in length, and 482 ft. above 
the torrent of Les Usses. From Lo- 
vagny( 3 J m. ), the first station on the 
line towards Aix les Bains, the Gorges 
du Fier, a deep fissure in the lime- 
stone, can be visited in J hr. They 
are 820 ft. long, and from 13 to 33 ft. 
wide, the walls being nearly perpen- 
dicular. Since 1869 a wooden gallery 
permits the visitor to examine this 
curious cleft at his ease. 



Route F. 

ANNECY TO BONNEVILLE. 

Most travellers going from Annecy 
to Bonneville will doubtless make use 
of the railway, but there is also a pleas- 
ant carriage road, leading through 
some interesting country. 

1. By Railway. — 23I m. to La 
Roche ( 1 hr. ), and 7 m. on to Bonne- 
ville (J hr. ) The line soon crosses 
the Fier, then runs nearly due N. above 
the r. bank of the Filliere, an 
affluent of the Fier, and, leaving on 
the r. hand the picturesque valley 
of Thorens, through which the Filliere 
descends from the E. , follows a stream 
to the N. E. , coming from a low pass 
(779 m., 2,556 ft.) The line on 
leaving Evires tunnels through this 
ridge, and descends by a great curve 
to the E. to La Roche sur Foron 
station, overlooking the valley of the 
Arve, and at the junction of the Aix- 
Annecy line with that from Geneva 
to Cluses. Geneva is I3f m. from La^ 
Roche ; Bonneville, 7 m. , is beyond it 
(see § 16. Rte. A). 

2. By Thdnes and the Col de St. 
Jean de Sixt.— Char road (steam 
tramway to Thones) ; 31 miles. The 
old road passes at the S.E. foot 
of the hill on which is Annecy le 
Vieux, then mounts the 1. side of the 
valley of the P'ier in an E. direction 
to turn the Montagne de Veyrier on 
the N. 5| m. from Annecy is the Pont 
St. Clair, which leads over to the 
curious remains of a Roman road, 
partly excavated through the lime- 
stone rock. It soon after reaches the 
meeting point of four valleys. Here 
falls in the new road, which, after 
skirting the E. shore of the lake, 
rounds the S. foot of the Montagne 
de Veyrier, and crosses the low Col 
de Blufty, whence there is a fine view 
down on Menthon and its castle. 

[The valley which descends from 
the N. to the meeting place is that of 
Dingy, and through it lies the easiest 



ROUTE F. ANNECY TO BONNEVILLE 



209 



way up the Parmelan (1,855 m -> 
6,086 ft.), a limestone ridge which 
falls in precipices on the Annecy side, 
but has meadows up to the summit 
on the other. A char road leads from 
Dingy to La Blonniere, whence there 
is a mule path to the summit, 4J- 5 
hrs. from Annecy ; pedestrians may 
save \ hr. by mounting the gully of 
the Grand Montoir, in which steps are 
now cut in the rock. Near the sum- 
mit there is a small inn. The view is 
magnificent, extending to the Alps of 
the Vallais. In the flanks of the 
Parmelan are three of the singular ice 
caves, or 'glacieres,' to which atten- 
tion was called by Canon G. F. 
Browne (now Bishop of Bristol) in his 
interesting work £ Ice-Caves of France 
and Switzerland' (1865). They are 
called gl. du Grand Anu, gl. de 
FEnfer, and gl. de Chappet sur Villaz. 
' Of these the gl. du Grand Anu is the 
most remarkable. The way from 
Annecy is by rail ( \ hr. ) to the station 
of St. Martin- Charvonnex, thence 
1 hr. on foot to Aviernoz, where re- 
sides M. Metral, the proprietor, from 
whom a guide (needful) may be ob- 
tained. The Grand Anu, which may 
be reached thence in 2 J hrs., is a 
cavern entered by a natural rock 
portal 70 ft. high. The floor and 
walls of the glaciere are covered with 
ice, and in the former is a natural pit 
or well 60 ft. deep. ' (T. G. B. )J 

From the Pont St. Clair a road runs 
along either bank of the Fier (that on 
the r. bank passes Thuy, i~ m. 
below Thones, whence Entremont 
can be reached by the Col de la Buffaz 
in 4-| hrs. ) to 

Thones (13 m. from Annecy), a 
small town situated at a height of 
626 m. (2,054 ft.) in a picturesque 
position at the meeting of several 
mountain glens, through which passes 
lead in different directions. 

{a) The S. W. of these glens leads 
by the Col du Nantet, N.W. of the 
Tournette, to Talloires, on the lake of 
Annecy, in 4^ hrs. (Rte. E. b). 

(b) Through a second glen a char 
road runs about due S. by the hamlets 

I. 



of Les Clefs and Belchamp over the 
low Col de S *ert -aval '(829 m. ,2.720 ft. ), 
between the ridges of the Tournette 
and of the Mont Charvin, to the vil- 
lage of Serraval, and Faverges ( 1 1 \ m. 
from Thones). From Belchamp (2 hrs, 
from Thones) the traveller can best 
ascend the Tournette (2,357 m., 7,733 
ft. ) 2 hrs. from that hamlet are the 
Rosary huts, on the S.W., whence 
2 hrs. suffice to gain the summit. The 
descent may be made to Faverges by 
Montmin, or to Talloires (Rte. E). 
I From Serraval the Mont Charvin 
(2,414 m., 7,920 ft.) is reached in 
4 hrs. 

(c) A third glen, that of Manigod, 
descends from the S.E. to Les Clefs 
(above), bearing down the head waters 

j of the Fier, which rises on the N. side 
' of the Mont Charvin (2,414 m., 
7,920 ft.) Through it the last-named 
peak can be ascended. The climb 
from the hamlet of La Gutarry (6 J m. 
by char from Thones) takes 4 or 5 
hrs. , and is not at all difficult. 

(d) The fourth of the glens that 
meet at Thones is that of Nom, up 
which lies the way to Bonneville. 

From Thones the road mounts 
N.E. up the Nom glen past several 
hamlets till ( 1 7 J m. from Annecy) the 
high road bifurcates, not far from the 
hamlet of St. Jean de Sixt. 

1. The road which soon runs S.E. 

! ascends past La Clusaz to the Col des 
Aravis, 1,498 m., 4,915 ft. (24 J m. 
from Annecy), from which there is a 
splendid view of the chain of Mont 

I Blanc. The road leads down in 2§ m. 

j to La Giettaz, a hamlet at the junction 

! of the Aravis and Arondine torrents. 

j (Sallanches may be reached hence 
either by the Col Jaillet or by. the 

j Croisse Banlet (2 hrs. up, iJ-2§ hrs. 

I down) : see Rte. H. a.) Hence steep 

I zigzags lead down in 4J m. through a 
most picturesque defile to Flumet, on 
the road from Ugines to Megeve and 
Chamonix (Rte. H). 

2. The road to the N E. mounts to 
the Col de St. Jean de Sixt (976 m., 
3,202 ft.), which separates the valleys 
of the Nom and of the Borne. Hence 

p 



2io LOWER SAVOY. § n. ANNECV DISTRICT 



two zigzags lead down to the first 
bridge ( i8j- m. from Annecy) over the 
Borne. (Here branches off to the 
N.E. the way to Cluses by the Char- 
treuse du Reposoir, described in the 
next Rte. ) The road to Bonneville 
now passes along the r. bank of 
the Borne through the fine defile of 
Les Et?-oits to the village of Entre- 
mont (21 \ m. ) Here are still seen 
the remains of a celebrated house of 
Austin Canons Regular, founded in 
1 153 as a colony from Abondance, but 
suppressed in 1770. (The Col de la 
Buffaz leads S. W. in 4 J- hrs. to Thuy, 
1^ m. below Thones on the road from 
Annecy, by two glens parallel to that 
of the Nona above Thones. ) 3f m. 
below Entremont is Le Cret, the 
chief hamlet of the commune of Petit 
Bornand and of the valley of the 
Borne. The road keeps along the 
r. bank, passing several hamlets, 
and runs through the narrow gorge 
of the Borne, on emerging from which 
the traveller gains a fine view of the 
junction of the Borne with the Arve, 
and of the broad valley in the midst 
of which lies Bonneville, 6 J m. from 
Le Cret, or 31 m. from Annecy, by 
this very interesting route. 



Route G. 

ANNECY TO SALLANCHES OR 
CLUSES. 

It is a very long day from Annecy 
to Sallanches or Cluses, so that it is 
best to sleep at Thones (13 m. by 
steam tramway : see last Rte. ) Thence 
the route of the Col de St. Jean de 
Sixt is followed till near the village of 
that name, where the different routes 
divide. 

If bound to Sallanches direct the 
best plan is to follow the way over 
the Col des Aravis ( char road to Flumet , 
Rte. F), and thence go by the road 
past Megeve to Sallanches (Rte. H). 



If bound to Cluses, it is necessary 
to follow the road over the Col de St. 

\ Jean de Sixt to the first bridge over 
the Borne, 5 J m. from Thones (Rte. 
F). Leaving the road by Petit Bor- 
nand to Bonneville (see last Rte. ) on 
the 1., that to Cluses mounts N.E. 
along the 1. bank of the Borne to 
Villeneuve (ijm. ), 931 m., 3,055ft., 
the chief village of the commune of 
Grand Bornand. This village is now 
a favourite summer resort. (There 
are two passes, Grande and Petite 
Forclaz (each 2,314 m., 7,592 ft.), 
leading hence, by the Bombardelle 
huts, in the Borne glen, over the 
ridge S. of the Pointe Percee (c. 6 
hrs. ) to Sallanches. ) 

It is situated at the meeting of the 
Borne, flowing in from the E., and of 
the Chinaillon, descending from the 
N. E. Cluses may be reached through 

I either glen, the paths reuniting at the 

: Chartreuse du Reposoir. 

A char road ascends N. E. along the 

I r. bank of the Chinaillon to the hamlet 
of that name ( 1 hr. ), and to Vanay, 

I beyond. Here two torrents meet. By 
following that descending from the N. , 
and finally keeping E. ,the pass of Haut 
du Col, lying immediately under the 
pyramidal summit of the Pic de Jal- 
louvre (2,438 m. , 7,999 ft. ), is gained, 
whence a steep descent through woods 
and meadows leads S. E. down to the 
hamlet oiP?-along, near the monastery 
(4 hrs. from Grand Bornand). The 
way along the stream coming from 

\ the E. is less steep, and more interest- 
ing, but J hr. longer. It mounts due 
E. past the Maroly huts to the Col 
des A?ines, 1,710 m., 5,610 ft. (2J 
hrs. from Grand Bornand), on which 
are some huts. This pass may also 
be gained from Grand Bornand by 
the Borne glen and the Tavaillon 
huts, J- hr. being saved by this way. 
From the pass a path leads in 2 hrs. 
down the Foron glen past the two 
sets of Sommier huts and the monas- 
tery to Pralong. 

Pralong is the chief hamlet in the 
Reposoir valley, and is prettily 
situated in a green meadow basin ; 



ROUTE G. ANNECY TO SALLANCHES OR CLUSES 211 



J hr. S.E. of it, at the entrance of the 
Foron gorge, is the Chartreuse du 
Reposoir , an ancient Carthusian 
monastery founded in 1151, and still 
inhabited by disciples of St. Bruno. 
Though only the portico of the church 
and the small cloister date from the 
Middle Ages (both fifteenth century), 
the fine scenery round the monastery 
renders a visit to it very interesting. 
Yet, though Saussure came hither 
several times, few strangers since his 
days have found their way to this se- 
cluded spot. The valley and the 
mountains around it are remarkably 
rich in rare plants, including most of 
the species peculiar to the calcareous 
rocks of this part of the Alpine chain. 
The glen is enclosed between the 
range of the Bargy on the W. and the 
N. end of the Aravis range on the E. 

[The highest point of the latter 
ridge is the Pointe Percee du Eepo- 
soir (2,752 m., 9,029 ft.), a shattered 
wall of limestone rock, seemingly in- 
accessible. The name is taken from 
an opening pierced by nature through 
this wall ; this hole is well seen from 
the Chartreuse, and even, it is said, 
from Geneva. The peak may be as- 
cended by a rough climb (on which a 
guide is desirable, as the rocks are 
steep). A traveller coming from 
Pralong or Grand Bornand should 
strike the watershed between the 
Reposoir and Borne glens, W. of the 
peak, as high up as possible, and then 
ascend due S. to a limestone desert at 
the base of the W. wall of the peak. 
In this he will discover a wide, 
steep gully, leading to the final ridge 
S. of the cross that marks the sum- 
mit (5-6 hrs. from either place to the 
summit, or 2 hrs. from the desert). A 
traveller coming from Sallanches (4J 
hrs. up thence) must cross the main 
ridge immediately S. of the peak. 
After descending but a few yards he 
will find it easy to climb the cliff on 
his right hand ; crossing its crest at 
the most convenient point he finds a 
horizontal ledge which leads him into 
the wide gully above its steepest por- 
tion. This is, on the whole, the least 



laborious route, but it appears to be 
still unknown locally. The view 
of Mont Blanc is extremely fine 
from this summit, the plain of Sal- 
lanches, then the ravine of the Arve, 
and finally the Bossons glacier leading 
the eye straight to the crown of the 
mountain. The downs near Megeve, 
and the green valley of the Reposoir, 
give variety to the panorama, which 
also includes many of the peaks of 
Dauphine and the Tarentaise.J 

From Pralong it is possible to go 
by the Mery huts and the Col Doran 
to Sallanches in 5 hrs. Most visitors 
will probably prefer the char road 
I along the 1. bank of the Foron, which 
I runs through the picturesque glen, 
joining the high road in the Arve 
j valley half way (f m. ) between 
I Scionzier and C/uses, the last-named 
place being 7 \ m. from Pralong. 



Route H. 

ANNECY OR ALBERTVILLE TO SAL- 
LANCHES OR ST. GERVAIS. MONT 
JOLY. 

There is now a good carriage road 
through the upper Arly valley to that 
of the Arve. A through service b}' 
steamer and diligence has been or- 
ganised from Annecy by Flumet and 
St. Gervais to Chamonix (n hrs.), and 
this is the pleasantest way of reaching 
Chamonix from the Dauphine or the 
Tarentaise. The road is very striking 
and beautiful. Fontaines d'Ugines 
to M£geve, 15 ra. ; thence 7 or 8 m. 

Whether the traveller starts from 
Annecy or Albertville, he must follow 
the route from one to the other of 
those two places as far as Fontaines 
d' Ugines, 23 m. from Annecy, and 
5 m. from Albertville (Rte. E). This 
village is at the foot of a hill, whereon 
(1 m. distant by road) is the large, 
straggling town of Ugines, overlooked 
by the remains of a very ancient 

P 2 



212 



LOWER SAVOY. § n. ANNECY DISTRICT 



castle perched on a rock. Due N. is 
the Mont Charvin(2^i^m. J 7,920ft. ), 
one of the highest summits in the 
ranges lying W. of the Arly and the 
Isere. It was one of the stations 
used in the triangulation of France, 
and commands an admirable view. 
(For the ascent from Serraval or 
Thones, see Rtes. E and F. ) 

The new road to Flumet does not 
mount to Ugines itself, but from Fon- 
taines commences to ascend the Arly 
valley. It keeps always close to the tor- 
rent (crossed six times before Flumet), 
through a very beautiful winding cleft 
between broken and well-wooded 
crags, which at times approach so 
closely that it is necessary to blast a 
shelf or tunnel for the road. There 
are many villages scattered on the 
broad, gentle slopes high above the 
W. bank of the Arly, of which Hery, 
beautifully situated amidst bold rocks 
and fine forest, is the principal. The 
road passes below Her} 7 , then gradu- 
ally climbs out of the defile, crosses 
the Flon, passes below St. Nicolas 
de la Chapelle, and by a remarkably 
bold bridge crosses the Arondine (up 
which goes the much recommended 
way to St. Jean de Sixt and Cluses 
or Thones by the Col des Aravis, 
Rte. F. 1), before gaining the knoll on 
which is perched, above the meeting 
of the two torrents, the large village of 

Flumet, 917 m., 3.009 ft. (8f m. 
from Fontaines d ; Ugines), which con- 
sists of but a single street, but over- 
hangs the Arve, nearly 200 ft. below, 
and has an unexpected view of the 
great white ridge falling from Mont 
Blanc to the Aiguille du Goiiter. 
There is a ruined castle above it, 
formerly belonging to the lords of the 
Faucigny, from whom the small town 
obtained municipal privileges as early 
as 1228. Nowadays it is a busy 
tourist centre, as the roads from Fon- 
taines d'Ugines, from Megeve, and 
from the Col des Aravis all meet 
here, while a good mule path leads 
S.E. over the mountains, or by the 
Col des Saisies, to Haute Luce and 
Beaufort (6 hrs., Rte. I). 



Above Flumet the valley is green, 
broad, and open. The road runs along 
the r. bank of the Arly for rather over 
6 m., ascending slightly, the snowy 
crests of the Mont Blanc chain being 
generally in sight. In this w r ay the 
traveller reaches Megeve (1,125 m -> 
3,691 ft. ), a large village standing on 
the open watershed between the Arly 
and the Arve. 

[This is the most convenient 
starting point for those who wish 
to make the ascent of the Mont 
Joly (2,527 m., 8,291 ft.) This 
excursion may be made also from 
St. Gervais or Contamines (c. 4 hrs. ) ; 
but it is a better arrangement to 
ascend from Megeve, and to descend 
to St. Gervais, thus saving labour, 
reaching the summit at an earlier 
hour, and securing the most advan- 
tageous points of view. Megeve 
being 500 m. (1,640 ft.) above the 
Baths of St. Gervais, fully an hour 
is saved in the ascent, which may be 
made in 3J hrs. from Megeve, the 
way being so easy that a mule may 
be taken to the little inn on the N, 
ridge, 1 hr. below the summit. The 
Mont Joly stands in a similar relation 
to the W. end of the Mont Blanc 
chain that the Brevent, Catogne, and 
Crammont hold respectively to the 
N. , E. , and S. faces of that great 
range, for the Mont Joly is separated 
from it merely by the valley of Mont- 
joie. Besides the grand view of Mont 
Blanc, the range of the Buet and the 
mountains of Sixt are well seen from 
here, and the Wildstrubel, in the 
Bernese Alps, appears over the Col de 
Balme. In the opposite direction the 
eye ranges along the valley of the 
Isere to the heights above Grenoble. 
I The descent to St. Gervais takes 
: about 2 hrs. From Megeve the Col 
I de Very (1,983 m., 6,506 ft.) leads 
\ S. by Haute Luce to Beaufort in 6 or 
7 hrs. It is interesting as having 
j been crossed on Aug. 19, 1689, by 
I the Vaudois under Henri Arnaud, 
; when making their 4 Glorieuse Ren- 
tree ' into the Waldensian Valleys of 
I Piedmont ; they did not descend to 



ROUTE H. ANNECY OR ALBERTVILLE TO SALLANCHES 213 



Haute Luce, but from the pass bore 
S.E., and traversed the Enclave or 
Col de la Fenetre (2,263 m - > 7A 2 S ft- ) 
to the La Balme inn on the Col du 
Bonhomme route.] 

2 m. N.E. of Megeve the road 
divides, both branches being of very 
great beauty, so that it is impossible 
to recommend one more than the 
other. 

{a) That to Sallanches (8 m.) 
bends N.W., and passes the village 
of Combloux (3J m. ), from which the 
view of Mont Blanc almost rivals that 
to be obtained from the Mont Joly. 
It descends in the same direction by 
zigzags and through a fine forest, 
growing on the moraine of the pre- 
historic glacier of Mont Blanc, with 
views of the snowy peaks, to Sal- 
lanches. 

There is a beautiful way for pedes- 
trians from Megeve to Sallanches 
(c. 3 hrs. ) Bear N.W. to a great 
stone cross on a spur marked by 
an outcrop of white rock, the 
Croix de Christo?net. Thence 
go over downs, cross the hollow 
traversed by the track of the grassy 
Col Jaillet (giving access by Prise 
Nouvelle to La Giettaz, at the foot of 
the Col des Aravis), and then walk 
by a level track along the wooded 
crest of the ridge dividing the head 
waters of the Arve and the Aron- 
dine. The views up towards Mont 
Blanc and across the Sallanches basin 
are wonderful. From the highest 
point, the Croisse Baulet (2,236 m., 
7,336 ft.), a bold, grassy knoll, it is 
easy to go down N.E. to Sallanches 
by the Croix du Planay ridge and the 
hamlet of Cordon. 

(b) The road to St. Gervais (6f m.) 
bends E. and winds along the upland 
meadows on the mountain-side, with 
glorious views first of Mont Blanc 
itself, then of one or another of its 
pinnacles. It then descends through 
a noble pine forest towards the Mont- 
joie glen, crosses the Bonnant by a 
new bridge of great span above the 
old Pont du Diable, destroyed by the 
1 great flood in 1892, and so gains 



St. Gervais le Village. Hence it is 
2 J m. by road (20 min. by footpath) 
to Le Fayet, on the main road in the 
valley of the Arve, by which Chamonix 
is reached in about 12 m. more. 



ROUTE I. 

ALBERTVILLE TO ST. GERVAIS BY 
THE VALLEY OF BEAUFORT. 

Albertville to Beaufort, 12^ m. ; dili- 
gence daily in 3 hrs. Albertville to 
Haute Luce, 15^ m. by carriage road, 
5 hrs.' walking to Contamines, and 
5^ m. by char road to St. Gervais. 

A short distance N. of Albertville 
the Arly receives from the E. a 
powerful torrent, which, to distinguish 
\ it from other streams of the same 
i name, is called the Doron de Beaufort. 
This drains the entire mountain dis- 
trict of Beaufort, lying between 
Albertville and the chain of Mont 
Blanc. This district contains some 
fine scenery and many rare plants. 
It may be very conveniently visited 
on the way to Mont Blanc by a 
traveller coming from the S. 

After crossing the bridge over the 
Arly at Albertville, the road mounts 
N.E. to Venthoriy above the junction 
of the Doron with the Arly. For 
about 3 J m. beyond it follows (on the 
I. bank) the windings of the stream 
through a deep and most picturesque 
defile. Indeed, the whole gorge to 
Beaufort has been called ' a Savoyard 
Val Mastallone, combining with Swiss 
pastoral features something of Italian 
grace and variety, and adding to these 
as its peculiar t:harm mossy greenness 
and red-tiled farmhouses.' A little 
before reaching the village of Queige 
(5 J m. from Albertville) the road 
crosses to the r. bank. At Queige 
the valley of Beaufort opens out to 
the E. , between the Mont de Mirantin, 
on the S., and the Bisanne, on the N. 
It soon narrows again, and later 



214 LOWER SAVOY. § n. ALBERTVILLE DISTRICT 



passes the village of Villard de Beau- 
fort (10 m. from Albertville), in a very 
beautiful position amid meadows and 
forests. I m. further the new road 
to Haute Luce branches off (see 
below), while that up the main valley 
passes round the S. foot of the conical 
hill on which, overlooking the whole 
glen, stands the ancient castle of 
Beaufort, crosses the Dorinet, flowing 
from the Haute Luce glen, and 
reaches 

Beaufort (12J m. from Albert- 
ville), 758m., 2,487 ft., the principal 
village in the valley. It has about 
2,400 inhabitants, and is famous for 
possessing the finest pasturages in 
South Savoy. Beaufort lies in a 
secluded meadow basin, shut off from 
the outer world ; its streets are nar- 
row, and on market days are thronged 
by peasants clad in the long coats and 
the red waistcoats which formed the 
old Savoyard dress, worn, as we learn 
from authentic pictures, by Saus- 
tfure's guides on his celebrated ascent 
of Mont Blanc. The castle was 
visited in 1600 by Henri Quatre, who 
spent several days here during his 
war with the duke of Savoy ; it is 
best reached by the new road in the 
' Haute Luce glen. 

Beaufort is sometimes called St. 
Maxime, from the early mission- 
ary who first introduced Christianity 
here, but is better known from 
its present name, derived from 
the castle above it. It is finely 
situated at the opening of the three 
valleys. From the N.E. the Dorinet 
torrent, flowing through the valley of 
Haute Luce, joins the Doron a short 
way below the village, and up this 
glen lies the way to St. Gervais, to be 
described presently. Exactly oppo- 
site the valley of Pontcellamot opens 
to the S. (Rte. L), while to the E. is 
the main valley, of which a glen above 
Beaufort is called the valley of the 
Gitte. 

From Beaufort the village of Haute 
Luce may be reached in two ways. 
As noted above the char road leaves 
the main valley i| m. below Beau- 



fort, and mounts by zigzags on the 
N.W. of the castle (hence easily 
reached by a road cut in the rock in 
%\ hr. from Beaufort), and then runs 
above the r. bank of the Dorinet to 
Haute Lttce (4§ m. from Beaufort, or 
15! m. direct from Albertville). 
(Pedestrians are recommended to fol- 
low the old road (a mule path), which 
mounts steeply N. of Beaufort, turns 
round the angle of the mountain, 
passes through a thick forest, and 
beyond the hamlet of Traverses 
crosses from the 1. bank of the Dori- 
net (followed hitherto) to Haute Luce, 
which is if hr. from Beaufort by this 
route. ) Haute Luce is a large village 
at a height of 1,153 m - (3>7&3 ft.) 

[Hence a mule path leads N.W. 
over the mountains, over the Col des 
Saisies — a great grassy plain, where 
there is a fair on Midsummer's Eve— 
(1,650 m., 5,414 ft.), and to Notre 
Dame de Bellecombe and Flumet, 
Rte. H, 6hrs-3 

The traveller bound to St. Gervais 
must follow the mule path along the 
r. bank of the Dorinet in a N.E. direc- 
tion past Annuity \ hr. (whence the 
Col de Very leads to Megeve, Rte. H), 
to some mills near the Plaiiay huts, 
; at the base of the last ascent (f hr. ) 
[Here a track turning S. mounts to 
the pretty Lac de la Girottaz ( 1 ,736 m. , 
5,696 ft. ), 2 hrs. from Haute Luce, and 
a favourite excursion from Beaufort, as 
I it may also be reached from Fontanus 
i (next Rte.), past the Outray huts. It 
lies in a deep hollow N. of the 
Rockers des Enclaves, and is stocked 
with fine trout, brought from the lake 
on the Mont Cenis. The upper end 
of the Dorinet valley, and especially 
the neighbourhood of the lake, is rich 
in rare plants. Among others may 
be mentioned Gentiana Burseri, G. 
purpurea, G. punctata, and G. angustz- 
> folia, Epipogium Gmeltnt, Listera 
cor data, and Corallorhiza innata. 
\ From Planay another track bears to 
the E. , and after passing the Colombe 
I huts crosses the Enclave or Col de la 
! Fenetre (2,263 m., 7,425 ft.) to the 
i La Balme inn, on the Col du Bon- 



ROUTE K. ALBERT VI LLE TO BOURG SAINT MAURICE 215 



homme route, § 16. Rte. E, 3 hrs. from 
Planay. Jj 

The way to St. Gervais mounts 
from Planay to the N.E., and at 
the last huts becomes a foot path. 
Several small ravines are crossed, and 
steep grass slopes ascended till in 1 J 
hr. from Planay (4 firs, from Beaufort) 
the Col Joly (1,999 m., 6,559 ft.) is 
attained. The descent lies N.E. to 
Cont amines (1 hr. ), on the Col du 
Bonhomme route, whence St. Gervais 
is 5 J- m. distant by char road. 



Route K. 

ALBERT VI LLE TO CONTAMINES OR 
BOURG ST. MAURICE BY BEAU- 
FORT. 

This route lies E. up the main 
branch of the Beaufort valley, the 
Cormet de Roselend being the prin- 
cipal pass, while there are other 
rougher foot paths through various 
side glens. The distance by this pass 
to Bourg St. Maurice is 18J m. , and 
there is a char road all the way, save 
between Roselend and Les Chapieux, 
where the mule path is being turned 
into a char road. 

On leaving Beaufort the valley soon 
narrows into a very fine gorge, in 
which the road crosses to the L bank 
of the torrent. At the hamlet of 
Fontanus (2f m. ), where the Gitte 
joins the main stream (see 1. below), 
the road recrosses the stream. It 
now turns abruptly to the S., and, 
crossing the torrent, mounts by great 
zigzags on first one, then the other 
bank, till beyond Les Tines, opposite 
the mouth of the Treicol glen (for the 
passes through it see 2. and 3. below), 
it turns N.E. and mounts along the 
r. bank to the hamlet -of Roselend, 
1,480 m., 4,856 ft. (6 \ m. from 
Beaufort), a village admirably situated 
on the edge of the forest, and deserv- 
ing to be tetter known to travellers. 
{Hence the route of the Col de la 



Sauce, below, can be reached at the 
Gitte huts over a low pass. ) Beyond 
Roselend the mule path crosses the 
Doron for the last time, then mounts 
on its 1. bank, leaving it more and 
more on the 1., round the N. foot of 
the Roc du Bio/ley, to some fine pas- 
tures, over which the track ascends 
gently to the Cormet de Roselend, 
1,923 m., 6,309 ft. \i\ m., about 
l| hr. walking, from Roselend.) 
(Cormet is the local word for a 
'col.') A gentle descent E. over 
pastures leads down in a good hour 
to the village of Les Chapieux, 
1,509 m., 4,951 ft. [i\ m.), at the 
junction of the routes from the Cols 
du Bonhomme and de la Seigne (§ 16. 
Rte. E). 

The great majority cf travellers 
who visit Chapieux are on their 
way to or from one of the two 
last-named passes. Comparatively 
few descend through the wild and 
somewhat dreary glen which leads to 
the valley of the Isere. The char 
road follows the r. bank of the Ruis- 
seau des Glaciers till it crosses to the 
Crey Bettex huts, on the opposite 
bank ( 1 hr. , 2 m. ), \ hr. below which 
is the Croix de dinettes. 2 m. 
further down the glen the traveller 
reaches Bonneval les Bains (2J hrs. 
from Les Chapieux), a hamlet at the 
height of 1,084 m - (3>557 ft-)> at tne 
junction of the main stream with the 
Versoye torrent (flowing S.W. from 
the little known Col de Breuil — see 
§ 14. Rte. G), which has an Etablisse- 
ment des Bains, at present sparsely 
frequented, but said to be on the 
high road to fame and popularity. 
A brighter vegetation offers an agree- 
able change from the stern barrenness 
through which the track has lain 
since quitting Chapieux. The road 
soon crosses to the r. bank, and keep- 
ing at some distance above it gains 
Le Chdtelard at the mouth of < the 
glen, then bears S.W. in order to 
descend to Bourg St. Maurice (§ 12. 
Rte. A), at the foot of the Little St. 
Bernard Pass, a good hr, from 
Bonneval. 



2i6 LOWER SAVOY. § ii. ALBERTVILLE DISTRICT 



There are several other mountain 
paths by which the traveller may 
cross more or less directly from Beau- 
fort to the Isere valley. The first 
described below is most convenient for 
any one really bound for Contamines, 
while the two others properly lead 
down to Aime, about half-way between 
Moutiers and Bourg St. Maurice. 

I . By the Col de la Sauce. — 4 hrs. to 
the Col ; thence 3 -J hrs. to Contamines, 
or 5J hrs. to Bourg St. Maurice. 
From Beaufort the road is followed 
(as above) to the hamlet of Fontcmus 
( 2f m. ) Hence the traveller mounts 
N.E. by a path first on the 1., then 
on the r. bank of the Gitte, in the 
glen of that name, to the Gitte huts 
(1,674 m -> 5j49 2 ft-)> at lts nea d 
(? 2.\ hrs. from Beaufort). The 
scenery of the upper end of the glen 
is extremely fine, and the many scarce 
plants will reward the botanist. 
Near the highest huts Phaca frigida 
has been found, with Potentilla 
minima, Gentiana brachyphylla, and 
other rarities. 

a. From the huts a path ascends 
steeply by zigzags on the r. bank of 
the torrent, and rounds the S. slope 
of Les Bancs to the Cavets huts near 
the Col du Bonhomme route, a little 
below the pass, by which Contamines 
is reached. 

b. The traveller bound to Bourg 
St. Maurice should follow the track 
on the 1. bank of the torrent, which 
leads in \\ hr. from the huts to the Col 
de la Sauce (2,012 m., 6,601 ft.), 
between Les Bancs, the end of the M. 
Roselette ridge, on the N., and the 
Roches Merles on the S. The traveller 
has now reached a point not far from 
the junction between the head of the 
Gitte glen of the Beaufort valley 
and that of Montjoie, though f hr. 
distant from the Col du Bonhomme. 
The track over that pass is gained near 
the Cavets huts between the Col and 
the Croix, the former being crossed to 
reach Contamines, the latter if 
Chapieux or Bourg St. Maurice is the 
goal of the traveller. 

c. If coming from Roselend the 



Cavets huts may be reached direct in 
4 hrs. by quitting the route of the 
Cormet de Roselend after it has 
rounded the N. foot of the Roc du 
Biolley, and then bearing N.E. by 
the Chavonnes huts, and over a 
pass, 2,319 m., 7,609 ft. (some- 
times called Col de la Sauced 
between the Roches Merles and the 
Crete des Gittes. A low pass also 
leads from Roselend, to the Chatelard 
huts, in the Gitte glen, and then to 
the Gitte huts themselves. 

2. By the Col de Bresson. — About 
10 hrs. from Beaufort to Bourg St. 
Maurice. This and the following pass 
lie through the Treicol glen, which 
joins that of the Doron not far from 
the hamlet of Les Tines, at the point 
where the road to Roselend finally 
bears N.E. To reach the Treicol 
glen the traveller must leave the road 
to Roselend just before it crosses to 
Les Tines, on the r. bank (2 hrs. ), and 
keep along a mule path on the 1. bank 
of the Treicol glen to the Cula huts 
[\ hr. ) This path soon crosses to the 
r. bank and passes the hamlet of 
Treicol before gaining that of Presset 
( \\ -2 hrs. ), where the mule path ends. 
The path to the Col de Bresson bears 
S. E. , and mounts to the pass ( \\ hr. ), 
2,460 m., 8,071 ft., some way N.E. of 
the Pierre Menta (2,715m., 8, 908 ft. ) , 
a remarkable square tower of rock, 
easily accessible by its S. ridge. 
The descent leads S.E. to the Balme 
huts (f hr. ), beyond which the path 
runs along the 1. bank of the Ormente 
torrent. By following it due S. it is 
easy to reach Aime (4J hrs. from 
the pass), on the high road between 
Moutiers and Bourg St. Maurice, 9 m. 
from the former and 7 m. from the 
latter place. But by taking from the 
pine forest some way below La Balme 
at each fork of the path the l.-hand 
track, even where it ascends, the 
traveller can gradually bear round to 
the E. to the village of Les Chapelles, 
and continue by paths above the high 
road to Bourg St. Maurice itself. 

3. By the Col du Coi?t. — From the 
Presset huts in the Treicol glen a path 



ROUTE L. BEAUFORT TO MOUTIERS 



217 



mounts S.W. to this pass (2,406 m., 
7,894 ft.), and descends, after making 
a traverse, to the W. along the hill- 
side, to the chapel of St. Guerin {c. 
2\ hrs. from Presset), on the Isere side 
of the Cormet d'i\reches, described 
in the next Route. From the pass 
the remarkable obelisk of the Pierre 
Menta (2,715 m., 8,908 ft.), on the 
E. , may be reached in i| hr. by the 
rS. ridge. 



Route L, 

BEAUFORT TO MOUTIERS TAREN- 
TAISE. 

As Moutiers, the capital of the 
Tarentaise (§12. Rte. A), lies at the 
S. extremity of a ridge which projects 
to the S. from the main mass of the 
mountains of Beaufort, it is reached 
from Beaufort by passes which join 
the valley of the Isere some miles to 
the N.W. or N.E. of the town. The 
way from Beaufort to all of them lies 
due S. by a char road which mounts 
rather rapidly along the r. bank of 
the Argentine torrent to the hamlet of 
Areches (1 hr. ), at the junction of the 
Argentine with the Pontcellamot 
stream. 

[Hence a well -traced mule path 
leads S.W. through the upper bit of 
the Argentine glen to the Col de 
la Bdtkie, 1,906 m., 6,253 ft. (2J- 
3 hrs. ), from which the La Bathie 
or Cevins stations, on the railway 
from Albertville to Moutiers, may be 
gained in 5^-6 hrs. from Beaufort. 
The former is 5-J m. from Albert- 
ville, and 12 m. from Moutiers; the 
latter is 2 J m. nearer Moutiers.] 

The lover of Alpine scenery will pre- 
fer to follow the main branch of the val- 
ey, now called valley of Pontcellamot 
by the char road along the r. bank of 
the torrent of the same name. This 
runs nearly due S, to Colombieres 
(20 min. beyond Areches), whence it 



is only a mule path. The glen is 
narrow, and passes between wooded 
slopes, as well as through a consider- 
able forest, before reaching the Chapel 
of St. Guerin, § hr. from Colom- 
bieres, or 2 hrs. from Beaufort. Here 
the path divides, passing through 
glens on the S.W. or S.E. The 
most interesting way, especially to 
the botanist, is the former track, which 
passes over the Col de la Louze. 

{a) By the Col de la Louze. — 8 hrs. 
from Beaufort to N. D. de Briancon. 
The mule path mounts S.W. by the 
Grande Combe to the pass (2,125 m -> 
6,972 ft. ) Hence it is easy to go W. 
by the Dar glen to Cevins. But the 
usual track descends S. to the chalet 
called La Grande Maison, and, after 
following the torrent in the glen of 
that name in a S.W. direction for a 
considerable distance, bears S. some 
way before reaching the Trepitine 
hut, in order to cross the ridge which 
separates it from another parallel 
stream more to the E. In this way 
the village of Gra?zd Naves is at- 
tained, and here begins a char road, 
which leads down to Petit Cceur, not 
far from the Notre Dame de Briancon 
station, on the railway from Albert- 
ville to Moutiers, 5 m. from the last- 
named place. It is also easy to keep 
from Trepitine always along the r. 
bank of the stream down the main 
glen straight to N.D. de Briancon. 
By the torrent descending from the 
Col the botanist may find Eryngium 
alpinum, Rhaponticum scariosum, and 
Sonchus Plu??iieri, and on the Col 
Luzula pedifonnis. 

(3) By the Cor??iet d 'Areches. — 
6J-7 hrs. to Aime. The main mule 
path mounts S.E. from St Guerin 
along the 1. bank of the stream, the 
surrounding region being very bare 
after the Derochoirs huts are passed. 
In if hr. from the chapel the 
traveller reaches the Col (c. 2,000 m. , 
6,562 ft.), N. of the Crete du Rey 
(2,689 m. , 8,823 ft.), which can be 
easily ascended from the pass. The 
track descends S.E. to some chalets, 
where is a second Chapel of St. 



2i8 LOWER SAVOY. § u. ALBERTVILLE DISTRICT 



Gnerin ( 20 min. ) ( Here the path from 
the Co ] du Coin — see last Rte. 3 — 
falls in. ) It then continues to go 
down the r. bank of the torrent 
through a great pine forest, becoming 
a char road \ m, before reaching the 
large village of Granier ( \\ hr. ), which 
overlooks the valley of the Isere* 



I The road makes great zigzags, and by 
1 it i\ hr. is required to gain Aime, in 
the Isere valley, which may be 
reached more directly in f hr. by the 
I old mule path. Aime is 9 m. from 
j Moutiers, and 7 m. from Bourg St. 
i Maurice, by the Little St, Bernard 
I high road, 



219 



CHAPTER V. 
GRAIAN ALPS. 



Section 12. 

Grande Casse District (Western 
Graians). 

Route. 

A. St. Pierre dAlbigny to Bourg St. 

Maurice. The Tarentaise. 

B. Bourg St. Maurice to Lanslebourg 

by the Col d'Iseran. History of 
the Mont Iseran. 

C. La Chambre to Moutiers by the Col 

de la Madeleine. 

D. St. Jean de Maurienne to Moutiers 

by the Col de la Platiere. 

E. St. Michel de Maurienne to Moutiers 

by the Col des Encombres. 

F. St. Michel or Modane to Moutiers or 

Pralognan by the P£clet Group. 

G. Modane to Pralognan by the Cols 

de Chaviere and d Aussois. 

H. Moutiers Tarentaise to Pralognan. 

Excursions and Ascents from Pra- 
lognan. Ascent of the Grande 
Casse. 

I. Pralognan to Termignon by the Col 

de la Vanoise. 
K. Entre Deux Eaux to Tignes, Val 

d'Isere, Bessans, or Bonneval. 
L. Tignes to Moutiers or Bourg St. 

Maurice by the Col du Palet. 

Ascent of the Mont Pourri. 

• Section 13. 

Levanna District (Central 
Graians. I.) 

Route. 

A. Bessans to the Viu Valley or the 

Mont Cenis by the Ribon Glen. 
Ascent of the Rochemelon. 

B. Bessans to Usseglio and Lanzo by 

the Col de lAutaret. 

C. Viu Valley to the Dora Riparia 

Valley. 

D. Ala Valley to the Viu Valley and 

the Val Grande. 

E. Bessans to Balme and Lanzo by the 

Cols d'Arnas and du Collerin. 

F. Excursions and Ascents from Bes- 

sans and Bonneval. 

G. Bonneval to Forno-Alpi-Graie and 

Lanzo by the Cols de Sea and de 
Girard. 



Route. 

H. Val Grande to the Oreo Valley. 

I. Bonneval to Ceresole by the Col du 

Carro. 

K. Bonneval to Val d'Isere by the Col 
du Bouquetin. 

Section 14. 

Sassiere District (Central 
Graians. II.) 

Route. 

A. Excursions and Ascents from Val 

d'Isere. 

B. Val d'Isere to Ceresole by the Col 

de la Galise. 

C. Val d'Isere to Villeneuve by the Val 

de Rhemes. 

D. Val de Rhemes to Val Grisanche. 

E. I sere Valley to Liverogne by the 

Val Grisanche. 

F. Ste. Foy or Val Grisanche to La 

Thuille. Rutor Group. 

G. Bourg St. Maurice to Aosta by the 

Little St. Bernard. 



Section 15. 

Grand Paradis District (Eastern 
Graians). 

Route. 

A. Turin to Aosta by Ivrea. 

B. Aosta to Cogne. 

C. Excursions and Ascents from 

Cogne. Ascent of the Grivola. 

D. Cogne to Bard by the Fenetre de 

Champorcher. 

E. Cogne to Pont Canavese by the Val 

Soana. 

F. Cogne to Locana by the Val Pianto- 

netto. 

G. Cogne to Ceresole by the Col de 

Grandcroux. 

H. Cogne to the Val Savaranche. 

I. Aosta to Turin by the Col de 

Nivolet. 

K. Ascents and Passes from the Victor 
Emmanuel Club hut. Ascent of 
the Grand Paradis. 



220 



GRAIAN ALPS 



From the Mont Cenis Pass to that of 1 
the Little St. Bernard the main chain 
of the Alps, dividing the waters which 
flow to the Adriatic from those which 
are poured through the Rhone into 
the Mediterranean, runs in a tolerably 
direct line from S. to N. for a dis- 
tance of nearly 40 miles. It forms 
throughout the political frontier be- 
tween France and Italy, and is the 
backbone of the extensive mountain 
mass lying between the two passes 
named above. This chain is most 
conveniently distinguished as the 
Central Graians. At a point 
about midway in its course, having 
hitherto run slightly to the N. E. , it 
inclines slightly to the N.W., and 
near this bend is traversed by two 
well-marked passes, the Cols du Carro 
and de la Galise, both leading to 
the head of the Oreo valley. The 
former of these passes serves as the 
limit between the two Sections in 
which it is proposed to describe the 
Central Graians, the S. bit being in- 
cluded in § 13, the Levanna Dis- 
trict (so named not from its highest 
but its best known peak), while the 
N. bit is comprised in Sect. 14, the 
Sassier e District (called after its cul- 
minating point). 

But a glance at the map will 
suffice to show that the mountain 
group in the immediate neighbour- 
hood of the Carro and Galise passes 
possesses a very real topographical im- 
portance, for on its W. and N.E. it 
is connected with each of two con- 
siderable outlying mountain masses 
by a narrow neck or isthmus which 
forms in either case a low pass tra- 
versed by a good path. The pass on 
the W. is the Col d'Iseran, beyond 
which rise the Alps of the Tarentaise, 
or Western Graians, described in 
§ 12 under the name of the Grande 
Casse District, from its loftiest sum- 
mit, while the pass on the N.E. is the 
Col de Nivolet, and the mass beyond 
the Eastern Graians, described below, 
in § 15, under the name of the 
Grand Paradis District, as the Grand 
Paradis is its culminating point, as 



well as the monarch of the entire 
Graian range. As might be expected 
from the physical character of these 
two great outliers the western lies 
wholly within French territory, while 
the more easterly is entirely Italian. 
On the French side the valleys of the 
Arc and Isere rivers completely en- 
close the Western Graians, while 
those of the Oreo, of the Dora Baltea, 
and of the stream in the Val Sava- 
ranche (an affluent of the Dora 
Baltea) surround the Eastern Grai- 
ans. It is to be remarked that four 
of these streams take their origin in 
or near the mountain mass between 
the Cols dTseran, du Carro and de la 
Galise, so that this group, described in 
§ 13. Rt. K. and even now known to 
very few mountaineers, occupies one 
of the most important topographical 
positions in the Alps. Hence it ought 
by rights to be crowned by one of the 
giants of the Alps, and this may serve 
to explain the curious invention of the 
13,000 feet high Mont Iseran, though 
as a matter of fact the loftiest point 
in the group is the Grande Aiguille 
Pousse, which attains the relatively 
small height of 3,482 m. (11,424 ft.) 

Geologically the Eastern Graians 
are distinguished from the rest of the 
Graians by the fact that the eastern 
outlier is composed almost exclusively 
of crystalline schists, which are 
scarcely anywhere seen in the other 
high ranges of the Graians, in which 
comparatively little altered Sedimen - 
tary rocks have been carried to the 
summit of the highest peaks. 

As already noted, the Grand 
Paradis (4,061 m., 13,324 ft.) is the 
culminating summit of the whole of 
the Graians, its nearest rival in the 
other districts being the Grande Casse 
(3,861 m., 12,668 ft.) Both peaks 
rise in the great outliers of the main 
chain, or Central Graians, the S. bit 
of which attains 3,760 m. (12,336 ft.) 
I in the Pointe de Charbonel, while in 
the N. bit the Aiguille de la Grande 
I Sassiere (3,756m., 12,323 ft.) is con- 
I siderably higher than its neighbours. 
I The Graians were long neglected 



INTRODUCTION 



221 



by travellers, nor can it be said that 
they are even now often visited by 
English climbers. Yet it was mainly 
through the determination and energy 
of a few members of the English 
Alpine Club, and especially Messrs. 
W. Mathews, J. J. Cowell, and R. C. 
Nichols, that this fine mountain mass 
was first explored, and most of its 
higher peaks conquered. These early 
explorers, however, left much work 
for their successors in after years in 
the way of detailed examination of 
the various ridges and glaciers. 
Among these later explorers the 
names of Mr. Yeld and of Mr. 
Coolidge, of Monsieur H. Ferrand 
and the MM. Puiseux, of Signori 
Baretti, Vaccarone, Bobba, and 
Cibrario, may be mentioned. The 
Graians have now been pretty tho- 
roughly investigated, but many new 
routes, and certain minor groups, re- 
main for those climbers on whom the 
attraction of the unknown has any in- 
fluence. All the sheets of the French 
and Italian Government Surveys (on 
various scales) for the Graians have 
now been issued. 

Of recent years the accommodation 
in the Graians has very much improved, 
though even now a certain amount of 
roughing must be undergone, save in 
the more frequented villages. Good 
inns now exist at Pralognan, Val 
d'lsere, Bonneval, Ceresole, and 
Degioz. Cogne, however, still lags 
behind, while Tignes has scarcely yet 
redeemed the character bestowed on it 
by early visitors/ There are a few 
Club huts in the range, but, save those 
of Pera Ciaval, of the Crot del Ciaus- 
sine, of Gura, of the Levanna, of the 
Rutor, of Victor Emmanuel II. , and of 
Piantonetto (all on the Italian side of 
the chain), and that near the Mont 
Pourri, they are neither well placed, 
well kept up, nor really necessary. Of 
the inns in the remoter corners of the 
range those at Bessans, Balme, For- 
net (Val Grisanche), and Peisey may 
be mentioned, not because they offer 
very superior accommodation, but 
because they are conveniently situ- 



ated. It is much to be regretted that 
the fine scenery of the Val de Rhemes 
can only be visited at the cost of some 
privations, owing to the want of any 
decent accommodation near its head. 
As in the Maritimes and Cottians, 
travellers (save at Pralognan and 
Cogne) should carry passports, and 
avoid sketching, photographing, &c, 
as the military authorities are very ex- 
acting. 

As yet the Eastern Graians alone 
have been described in the series of 
the 4 Climbers' Guides,' though other 
volumes dealing with the rest of the 
Graians are in preparation. Joanne's 
6 Savoie ' (large edition, 1895) gives a 
very good summary of recent inform- 
ation as to the French portion of the 
range (a very concise account may 
also be found in Badeker's ' Sud-Est 
de la France,' 5th edition, 1894), 
while for the Italian side of the 
Graians there is the excellent ' Guida 
delle Alpi Occidentali ' (vol. ii. 
Part I, 1889; Part 2, 1896), by 
Signori Vaccarone, Martelli, and 
Bobba. Many local details specially 
relating to the district described in 
§ 12 may be found in M. Francois 
Arnollet's ' Nos Alpes — Isere et 
Dorons ' (Moutiers Tarentaise, 1895). 
Many useful articles and notes may 
be found in the publications of the 
English, French, and Italian Alpine 
Clubs ; in particular, the ' Revue 
Alpine,' issued since 1895 by the 
Lyons Section of the French Alpine 
Club, devotes special attention to the 
French side of the range. Another 
book deserves careful and minute 
study, as it contains a very detailed 
and thorough account of the Central 
Graians, M. Henri Ferrand's ' La 
Frontiere Franco-Italienne ' (Gre- 
noble, 1894), but it is unluckily made 
up of several independent articles, 
while the want of an Index is a 
serious drawback to its usefulness. 



222 GRAIAN ALPS. § 12. GRANDE CASSE DISTRICT 



SECTION 12. 

GRANDE CASSE DISTRICT 
{WESTERN GRAIANS). 

The name Tarentaise properly be- 
longs to the valley of the Isere above 
Albertville, with its tributary glens. 
The most considerable of these — that 
of the Doron — drains several of the 
higher summits of the district, and 
joins the Isere at Moutiers. The 
Isere rises in the glaciers near the Col 
de la Galise, while the Arc rises in 
those of the Levanna, so that the 
head waters of both streams are not 
distant from each other, and it is easy 
to go from one to the other by the 
isthmus of the Col cFIseran, which 
unites the Western Graians to the 
main chain of the Central Graians. 
These two rivers mingle their streams 
below St. Pierre d'Albigny, about 45 
miles in a direct line W. of that pass, 
so that their valleys, and the Col 
dTseran, form the natural limits of 
the district we are about to describe. 
By far the greater part of the Arc 
valley, or the Maurienne, has already 
been described in connection with the 
Mont Cenis Pass (§ 7. Rtes. A and 
B), so that in this Section we have 
only to notice its upper course from 
its source to Lanslebourg. On the 
other hand the entire course of the 
Isere valley, as far as St. Pierre 
d'Albigny, is here included. From 
its source to Aiguebelle, near its 
junction with the Isere, the Arc de- 
scribes a semicircle, the diameter of 
which is about 40 miles in length. 
The Isere, on the contrary, in the in- 
terval between its source and the 
junction, forms a tolerably regular 
zigzag, or reversed W. , the re-enter- 
ing angle of which, where stands the 
city of Moutiers Tarentaise, is pretty 
near the centre of the semicircle 
formed by the Arc. The direction 
of these successive joints of the upper 
valley of the Isere appears to be in- 
timately connected with the forces 
that have elevated this portion of 



the Alps ; but as regards the position 
of the principal peaks, and the direc - 
tion of the secondary valleys, no part 
of the Alps shows so little trace of 
regularity as this district. The reason 
may probably be that it is mainly 
composed of slightly altered Sedi- 
mentary rocks, which have yielded so 
extensively to erosive action, whether 
that of water or of ice, as to preserve 
little trace of their original conform- 
ation. 

The scenery of the Western Graians, 
or Tarentaise Alps, is doubtless in- 
ferior in grandeur to that of the Pen- 
nines or of the Dauphine Alps ; yet 
there is no want of snow-clad peaks 
and spreading glaciers to tempt the 
aspiring mountaineer, while the broad 
green Alpine pastures, with their cows 
and Swiss herdsmen, vividly recall 
better known Swiss scenes, and afford 
a grateful change to the eyes of those 
who approach this district from the 
South, whether from the stone-choked 
valleys of Dauphine or the scarcely 
less fertile glens of the Cottian Alps. 
Nevertheless the Western Graians 
were long neglected, and it is to the 
enterprise and perseverance of Mr. 
William Mathews, one of the most 
indefatigable explorers of the Western 
Alps, that we owe the first accurate 
account, based on personal experi- 
ence, of the higher peaks of this group 
(see his classical paper in vol. ii. of 
the 2nd series of ' Peaks, Passes, and 
Glaciers '). Since then some French 
and a very few English travellers have 
added much to our knowledge of this 
portion of the Alps. The culminat- 
ing point of the group is the Grande 
Casse (3,861 m., 12,668 ft.), best 
reached, as is also the magnificent 
belvedere of the Dome de Chasseforet 
(3>597 m -> 11,802 ft.), from Pralo- 
gnan. The second summit is the Mo?it 
Poitrri (3,788 m., 12,428 ft.), most 
conveniently attacked from the new 
Club hut above Peisey. The third 
summit is the Dent Parrachee (3,712 
m. , 12,179 ft. ), the best starting point 
for which is Modane. Next comes the 
Grande Motte (3,663 m., 12,018 ft.), 



§ 12. GRANDE CASSE DISTRICT (WESTERN GRAIANS) 223 



easily accessible by the Col de Fresse 
and Col de la Leisse from Val 
dTsere, while at the extreme E. end 
of the district is the Pointe de Mean 
Martin (3,337 m., 10,949 ft.), acces- 
sible from either Val dTsere or Bon- 
neval, and at the extreme W. end the 
Aiguilles de Peclet (3,566 m. , 11,700 
ft.) and de Polset (3,538 m., 11,608 
ft.), to attain which a bivouac in 
a chalet, or a long day's walk from 
Pralognan, is necessary. Pralognan, 
Val dTsere, and Bonneval are thus 
the three best headquarters for travel- 
lers in this district, and are now all 
provided with excellent mountain 
inns. Pralognan, is, however, the 
only one of the three which is wholly 
in the district, so that for the chief 
ascents from Bonneval and Val 
dTsere reference must be made to 
§ 13 and 14 respectively. There 
are fair local guides, but a prudent 
traveller would do well to bring his 
own men with him. 

The geological structure of the 
Tarentaise Alps has given rise to dis- 
cussions, which at one time seemed to 
shake the foundations of the science. 
The reversal of the natural order of 
superposition in strata that have been 
extensively disturbed is a phenomenon 
not very uncommon in the Alps, but 
nowhere has it taken place so exten- 
sively, and under such singular circum- 
stances, as in this part of Savoy. 
Between the zone of crystalline rocks 
extending from the valley of Beaufort 
to the valley of the Romanche, and 
the still more considerable metamor- 
phic mass of the main range of the 
Graians, rocks of varied mineral com- 
position, chiefly belonging to the 
Carboniferous series, fill the greater 
portion of the area which once ap- 
parently formed a trough, but whence 
by subsequent disturbance they have 
been raised more than 12,000 ft. above 
the sea level. Beds of anthracite, often 
thick enough to be worked for fuel, 
are extremely frequent throughout this 
formation, and are often associated 
with black, argillaceous slates, a- 
bounding in impressions of ferns, 



either identical with, or nearly allied 
to, undoubted Carboniferous species. 
In the midst of the Carboniferous zone 
a narrow strip of Liassic rocks, con- 
taining belemnites, and other charac- 
teristic fossils, runs parallel to the 
general strike of the strata, from N.E. 
to S.W., and by the peculiarity of 
its relations with the earlier forma- 
tions has raised doubts in the minds 
of some geologists as to the value of 
pakeontological evidence in the iden- 
tification of strata. Sometimes the 
Carboniferous rocks appear bodily to 
overlie the Lias, sometimes a thin bed 
of the former appears intercalated in 
conformable stratification between two 
of the latter. An instance of this last- 
named phenomenon, which was first 
noticed by Elie de Beaumont, and has 
since been constantly visited by 
geologists, is to be seen between 
Albertville and Moutiers, in the bed 
of a torrent a short distance above the 
village of Petit Cceur, near the junc- 
tion of the crystalline with the Sedi- 
mentary rocks. M. Mortillet has 
called attention to a case at Le Cud- 
ray, near N. D. de Briancon, not far 
from Moutiers, where both Carboni- 
ferous and Secondary rocks are in- 
volved in the folds of the crystalline 
schists. For a history of the discus- 
sion up to 1863, see chapter xxx. of 
M. Alphonse Favre's ' Recherches 
Geologiques' (1867). 



Route A. 

ST. PIERRE D'ALBIGNY TO BOURG ST. 
MAURICE. THE TARENTAISE. 

M. 

Albertville . . . .15 
Moutiers .... 32^ 
Aime ..... 41^ 
Bourg St. Maurice . . 48^ 

Railway to Moutiers in hrs. ; 

thence diligence in 4 hrs. 

St. Pierre d' ) Albigny (for the routes 
hence to Le Chatelard see §11. Rtes. 
C and D) is a small town above the 



224 GRAIAN ALPS. §12. GRANDE CASSE DISTRICT 



junction of the Arc with the Isere, and 
on the Mont Cenis railway (described 
in § 7. Rte. A), 15.7m. from Chambery. 
Hence the branch line starts up the 
Isere valley, following always the 
right bank, save for a short distance 
beyond Cevins. At first it runs 
parallel with the old road at the base 
of the mountains, and passes below 
Gresy, a village which abounds in 
Roman remains. To the N.W. the 
valley is enclosed by the rugged ridge 
which divides the Combe de Belle- 
vaux (§ II. Rte. D) from the Isere. 
The new carriage road, which is hot 
and dusty, runs along the embankment 
on the right bank of the Isere, and 
joins the old road near the junction 
of that from the Col de Tamie, § 1 1. 
Rte. E.) 

Albertville is the modern name 
given in 1845 by King Charles Albert 
of Sardinia to two small towns stand- 
ing on opposite banks of the Arly, at 
its junction with the Isere. The 
name is, however, usually confined to 
the new town on the right bank of the 
Arly, formerly called UHopital, and 
then a mere suburb of the old fortified 
town of ConftanS) with its narrow 
streets, perched on a rock on the 
other bank of the Arly. (For the 
routes hence to Le Chatelard, see 
§ 11. Rte. D; for that to Annecy, 
§11. Rte. E; for that to St. Gervais 
by the Arly valley, § 1 1. Rte. H; 
and for the ways through the Beaufort 
glen, § 11. Rtes. I and K.) 

On leaving Albertville the railway 
runs between the carriage road, shaded 
by fine chestnut trees, and the right 
bank of the Isere, the valley gradually 
bending in a due S. direction. 5 J m. 
from Albertville is the old archiepis- 
copal castle of La Bat hie (for the pass 
of that name to Beaufort, see § 1 1. 
Rte. L). Some way beyond the rail- 
way crosses the road, as the valley 
has become so narrow that the road 
has to be protected by an embank- 
ment against the ravages of the Isere. 
2J m. from La Bathie is the hamlet of 
Cevins, where are the most extensive 
slate quarries in Savoy. To the S. W. 



opens the Bayet glen, through which 
a mule path leads in 7 hrs. over the 
Col de Basmont (1,607 m., 5,273 ft.) 
to Aiguebeile, in the Arc valley. Be- 
yond Cevins the Isere valley again 
contracts, this being the most beauti- 
ful part of the route, and passes 
through the defile of the Pas de 
Brian $ on, formerly commanded by a 
castle, now in ruins. A fine waterfall 
of the Glaize is seen on the right just 
before reaching {\\ m. from Cevins) 
the station of Notre Dame de Brian- 
con, Hence the Col de la Louze 
(§ 11. Rte. L) leads to Beaufort 
through the Glaize valley, on the N. E. , 
while to the S.W. the Celliers glen 
gives access to the Col de la Madeleine 
(Rte. C. below) and La Chambre, in 
the Arc valley. This part of the 
valley of the Isere is interesting to 
the botanist as well as to the geologist. 
Amongst other scarce plants Carlina 
nebrodensis has been found near the 
castle of Briancon, while Achillea 
nobilis is abundant near Moutiers. 
Close to N. D. de Briancon is Le 
j Cudray, and nearly opposite the 
i hamlet of Petit Cceur, both deserving 
! a visit from a geologist (see Intro- 
! duction to this §). After passing 
I Aigueblanche (4 m. from N. D. de 
Briancon), with an ancient crenellated 
tower, the line passes above a very 
narrow gorge, and in 1 m. reaches 

Moatiers Tarentaise (480 m., 
1,575 ft.), the chief town of the 
Tarentaise, situated in a small basin 
at the junction of the Doron with the 
Isere. Near here was the Roman 
town of Darentasia, the present little 
city taking its name from a monastery 
founded in the fifth century, and 
having been the seat of an archbishop 
or bishop since that date, save during 
the storms of the French Revolution. 
The Cathedral Church is Romanesque, 
with an ancient crypt, a fifteenth- 
century porch, and some twelfth-cen- 
tury ornaments in the sacristy. 

[The passes leading from Moutiers 
to the Beaufort glen are described in 
§ 11. Rte. L, and those to the valley 
of the Arc in Rtes. C, D, E, and F, 



ROUTE A. 



THE TARENTAISE 



225 



below. The salt springs of Salins, and 
the now fashionable watering place of 
Brides les Bains, are most conve- 
niently described in Rte. H, below, as 
they are on the road from Moutiers 
to Pralognan, the chief mountaineering 
centre of this part of the Tarentaise. 
The most interesting excursion to be 
made from Moutiers direct is that up 
the splendid belvedere of the Mont 
Jovet (2,563 m., 8,409 ft.), to the E. 
It is accessible by mule path in 5 J hrs. , 
and is worth a visit from those who 
do not propose to explore the higher 
ranges of the Tarentaise, as it com- 
mands a glorious panorama, extending 
from the great Dauphine peaks to 
Mont Blanc, the Grand Combin, and 
Monte Rosa. There is now a com- 
fortable little mountain inn, J hr. 
below the summit. The descent may 
be made by another mule path to 
Bozel, on the way between Moutiers 
and Pralognan. J 

Above Moutiers the Isere makes 
another acute angle, resuming its 
former direction from S.W. to N.E. 
The carriage road, which keeps always 
to the right bank of the river, first 
enters a narrow gorge, beyond which 
is the village of St. Marcel, dominated 
by the ruined castle of the archbishops 
of the Tarentaise, who till the eleventh 
Century were also great feudal lords. 
It then traverses by means of several 
tunnels a second, still narrower defile, 
that of the Detroit de Saix, where 
roches moutonnees attest the former 
passage of a glacier. In the next 
open basin, amid vineyards and fine 
trees, the small village of Centron has 
preserved in a mutilated form the 
name of the Ceut rones, the original 
inhabitants of this region. To the 
S. is seen the Mont Jovet (see above). 
After passing Villette the road reaches 
Aime, the ancient Axima, one of the 
chief towns of the Ceutrones, and 
still containing many Roman remains. 
The mediaeval church is built of frag- 
ments of a Roman building, and near 
it there is a Roman tower. (The 
passes hence to Beaufort are described 
in § 11. Rtes. K and L. ) 

1. 



[On the other side of the Isere is 
the village of Mdcot (1 m. ), whence 
it is a walk of 2 hrs. up the valley 
which opens to the S. to the exten- 
sive mines (argentiferous lead) of 
Macot. A mule path leads thence 
over to Champagny, and a foot path 
to Peisey . 3 

Above Aime the valley, though 
wide, is somewhat bare, and at 
Bellentre (3 m.) the last vines are 
seen. A little beyond, on the oppo- 
site bank of the Isere, is Landry, at 
the mouth of the Peisey valley (Rte. 
L. 2. below), through which there is a 
fine view of the snowy peak of the 
Mont Pourri, and of the Bellecote 
range between the Peisey and Premou 
glens. Some fine forests of pines 
and larches are seen opposite above 
the left bank of the Isere, while as 
the traveller approaches Bourg St. 
Maurice the pass of the Little St. 
Bernard comes well in view, and 
appears to be the natural termination 
of the valley of the Isere. 

Bourg St. Maurice (815 mi, 2,674 
ft. ) is a small town which is a centre 
of considerable traffic, as it stands at 
the junction of the carriage roads 
from Aosta over the Little St. Bernard 
(§ 14. Rte. G) from Val dTsere, at 
the head of the Isere valley (see next 
Rte. ), and the tracks from St. Gervais, 
Beaufort, and Courmayeur through 
theBonneval glen (§11, Rte. K, and 
§ 16. Rte. E). 



Route B. 

BOURG ST. MAURICE TO LANSLE- 
BOURG BY THE COL DTSERAN. 

Carriage road (20^ m.) to Val d'Isere ; 
thence good mule path to Bonneval 
in 41 hrs. ; thence carriage road (13 
m.) to Lanslebourg. 

This is a very interesting route, 
the scenery of the upper valley of the 

9 



226 GRAIAN ALPS. § 12. GRANDE CASSE DISTRICT 



Isere, particularly below Tignes, 
being very beautiful, while above that 
village it is savage and Alpine. The 
Alpine historian will also recollect 
that the Col dTseran was crossed on 
August 22, 1689, by the Vaudois on 
their way to make their 4 Glorieuse 
Rentree into their native valleys, 
and can see with his own eyes how 
easily the problem of the lofty Mont 
Iseran can be solved by those who 
take the trouble to visit in person the 
regions they describe. 

The road across the Little St. 
Bernard is followed for 2 m. as far as 
Seez (§ 14. Rte. G). That up the 
Isere valley then branches off to the 
right, and mounts above the right 
bank of that river, here a mountain 
torrent. The scenery continually in- 
creases in beauty and grandeur as 
the traveller advances. Several ham- 
lets are traversed before the large 
village of Ste. Foy, 1,051 m. , 3,448 
ft. ( 5 -J m. ), is attained. It is beautifully 
situated above the junction with the 
Isere of the torrent flowing from the 
S as si ere de Ste. Foy glen, on the E. 
( For the passes from Ste. Foy through 
this glen to the Val Grisanche, the 
Rutor group, and the Little St. Bernard 
road direct see § 14. Rtes. E andF.) 
Nearly opposite Ste. Foy is the 
magnificent peak of the Mont Pourri 
(3,788 m., 12,428 ft."), which rises in 
one unbroken mass from the banks 
of the Isere, and forms the most 
conspicuous object throughout this 
part of the valley. (Opposite Ste. 
Foy is the village of Villaroger, 
whence the high snow pass of the 
Col du Pourri leads to the Club hut 
for the ascent of that peak, for all 
details as to which see Rte. L, 
below. ) 

1 \ m. higher up the Isere valley is 
La Thuille de Ste. Foy (1,272 m., 

4,i73ft.) 

[Hence on Sept. 18, 1853, the 
writer (J. B. ) made an easy and 
agreeable excursion to the Croix de 
Foglietta (2,818 m., 9,246 ft.), so 
called from the Ste. Foy man who 
set up a cross on this point, a buttress 



! of the Ormelune. There is a very 
| fine view hence of the Mont Blanc 
! range, and the peaks of the Tarentaise. 
> The most agreeable way to return to 
: La Thuille is by the track leading 
i from the Col de Vaudet, or Col du Clou 
! (§14. Rte. E. 2), the scenery in de- 
I scending towards the Isere being varied 
and beautiful. The highest or W. 
I summit of the Ormelune (3,283 m., 
10,771 ft.) maybe reached in about 
2J hrs. from that pass, or directly (in 
I 4 hrs. ) from the Plan huts in that glen ; 
the direct descent to the La Motte 
huts in the Sassiere de Ste. Foy glen 
takes about i^-hr. , while it is even 
easier to descend N.E. by easy gla- 
ciers in 2 hrs. to Fornet, at the head 
I of the Val Grisanche. The Col du 
; Mont (§ 14. Rte. E. 3) itself may be 
\ reached direct by the N. ridge. The 
panorama from the Ormelune is very 
extensive, and as the ascent offers no 
difficulties it ought to attract more 
attention than has hitherto been the 
case. 3 

Above La Thuille the road mounts 
through a forest at a considerable 
! height above the river. Opposite is 
! the hamlet of La Gurra, in a very 
1 striking position, just below the glacier 
I of that name, which descends from 
! the Mont Pourri, and is a perpetual 
; menace to this eyrie. At Le Biolcy 
the torrent from the Foiid glen is 
crossed ; through it a high but easy 
glacier pass leads over to the head of 
t the Val Grisanche. This torrent is 
; called the Nant Cruet, and forms a 
fine waterfall close to the bridge. 
After crossing another shoulder the 
road descends to the level of the Isere, 
I and soon reaches a green basin, where 
stands the hamlet of Les Brevieres, 
I 1,572 m., 5,158 ft. (5^m.) Among 
many interesting plants to be found in 
this part of the valley the botanist 
will observe the beautiful Cortusa 
Matthioli, growing on steep damp 
rocks near the banks of torrents. On 
the W. side of the valley the ravine 
and Col de la Sachette lead over to 
the valley of Peisey (see Rte. L. 
below). The new carriage road forces 



ROUTE B. BOURG ST. MAURICE TO LANSLEBOURG 227 



its way through the very striking and 
picturesque gorge of Fossieres, the 
old mule path having mounted through 
a forest over a spur to the W. The 
Isere is crossed as the traveller attains 
a broad green basin, in which stands 
the beautifully situated village (2 m. 
from Brevieres, or 16 J m. from Bourg 
St. Maurice) of 

Tignes (1,659 m., 5,443 ft.) 
It is at the junction of the streams 
flowing from the Lac de Tignes 
(Rte. L) and the Lac de la Sassiere 
(§ 14. Rte. C), the latter forming 
a fine cascade just opposite the 
village. The position of Tignes 
is very beautiful, and attractive to the 
mountaineer, but the inns, though 
better than of old, are far inferior to 
that at Val dTsere. Hence the latter 
village is the best headquarters for a 
traveller, and almost all the neighbour- 
ing peaks and passes can thence be 
reached as easily as from Tignes, and 
for this reason are described in § 14. 

[There are, however, at least two 
excursions and two ascents for which 
Tignes is the best starting point. The 
Lac de Tignes, if hr. distant by a 
mule path to the S.W., should be 
visited by every passing traveller, as 
it is exquisitely situated, and takes 
high rank among Alpine lakes. Val 
dTsere may thence be easily reached 
in I J hr. by the grass pass of the Pas 
de la Thouviere. On the way from 
Tignes to the lake a mule path turns 
off to the N., and leads up to the 
Marais chalets, \\ hr. from Tignes ; 
from the grassy brow just E. of them 
one of the most glorious possible views 
of Mont Blanc and its neighbours 
may be obtained, so that a wise 
traveller would do well to combine 
this excursion with that to the lake on 
his way from Tignes to Val dTsere. 
The Marais chalets are the most con- 
venient night quarters for those who 
propose to ascend the Mont Poicrri 
by its S. ridge, a long but not very 
difficult expedition, rewarded by the 
noblest of views. 7-8 hrs. should be 
allowed for the ascent from Marais, 
so that some will prefer to bivouac 



higher up, in the Sachette glen. The 
chief ascent to be made from Tignes 
is, however, that of the Aiguille de la 
i Grande Sassiere (3,756 m., 12,323 
ft.) The first traveller to make it 
was Mr. William Mathews, in i860, 
who found on the summit a ruined 
cairn and a broken cross, due to a 
Tignes man, who had made the 
! ascent over 50 years before. Mr. 

Mathews gained the summit in about 
\ 6 hrs. from Tignes, ascending from 
the Sassiere glen, on the way to the 
Col de la Goletta (§ 14. Rte. C), by 
the great W. buttress to the glacier 
W. of the peak. This seems to be 
the usual way still taken from Val 
d'Isere, whence the Sassiere glen is 
reached by crossing a spur and passing 
the hamlet of Franc het(§ 14. Rte. C. b). 
But if the ascent is made direct from 
Tignes it is at least \ hr. shorter — 
I 5 J hrs. in all— to mount by the Revi- 
elle chalets, and a great stony hollow 
between two spurs of the great W. 
buttress to the glacier, which is gained 
without any difficulty near the point 
at which those two spurs split off.. 
I The view from the summit is one of 
the finest in this part of the Alps, 
and this ascent cannot be too warmly 
recommended. The ridge leading 
i S.E. from the summit to the Col de 
I la Goletta is not really difficult, but 
1 requires care, as it is sometimes fringed 
j by great corniches. Half-way down 
\ this ridge it is easy to strike down 
to the Gliairetta glacier, on the Italian 
! side, and so gain the head of the Val 
j Grisanche. S. E. of Tignes a very bold 
! rock needle attracts the attention of 
\ the traveller. This is the lower point 
of the Rockers de Franchet{i$\% m. , 
9,246 ft.), and is really only the butt 
end of a long ridge, so that it is easily 
climbed from the S. in hrs. from 
Val d'Isere ; the E. summit is 60 rh. 
(197 ft. ) higher. J 

The valley of the Isere between 
Ste. Foy and the Col dTseran, in 
addition to its other attractions, is 
interesting to a geologist as marking 
the limit between the crystalline 
rocks of the eastern portion of the 
Q 2 



228 GRAIAN ALPS. § 12. GRANDE CASSE DISTRICT 



Graian range and the Sedimentary 
strata of the Tarentaise Alps, or 
Western Graians. The botanist too 
may here reap a rich harvest of rare 
plants. Among others may be men- 
tioned Draba frigida and D. nivalis, 
Oxytropis Gaudini, Gentiana punc- 
tata, G. brachyphylla, and G. tenella, 
Pedicular is rosea and P. cenisia, 
Primula pede?nontana (on the right- 
hand of the old path between Bre- 
vieres and Tignes), Car ex rupest?'is, 
C. microglochin, C. curvula, C. lago- 
pi7ia, and C. bicolor, Alopecurus Ge- 
rardi, and Avena subspicata. 

Between the basin ofTignesand that 
of Val dTsere there is a defile even 
grander than those lower down, but 
composed of very rotten rock, so that 
fragments frequently fall, particularly 
on the W. side. The carriage road 
from Tignes attains its entrance by 
several zigzags, and is then carried 
high above the stream, on the N.E. 
side of the gorge, passing below the 
hamlet of Franchet. The level of 
the Isere is gained a little before 
quitting the gorge, and two small 
hamlets are passed before (4m.) that of 

Val d'Isere (1,849 m - , 6,066 ft.) is 
reached (20§ m. from Bourg St. Mau- 
rice). This village stands in the 
midst of a green basin, at the meet- 
ing point of the Isere valley on the 
E. with the wide Calabourdane 
glen on the S. It is admirably 
situated for the mountaineer, and 
hence it has been thought best to 
collect into 3 Rtes. (§ 14. Rtes. A, B, 
and C) the descriptions of the more 
important passes and ascents to be 
made from it towards the N. ; those 
to the W. , S. , and E. are noticed in 
Rte. K, below, and § 13. Rte. K. 

The old route across the Col 
dTseran made from Val dTsere a 
round by Fomet (ij- m. ), the last 
hamlet in the Isere valley. But the 
new road follows the former short 
cut used by pedestrians, and quits the 
Isere at the houses of Laissenant, 10 
minutes beyond Val dTsere. The 
two tracks join at the first of the great 
stone pyramids, often with poles fixed 



in them, which serve not only to 
direct wayfarers when snow lies on 
the pass, or in bad weather, but also 
to give shelter, as many of them have 
a niche that holds two or three per- 
sons. The path mounts gently in- 
clined, over bare pastures, to the 
little house on the crest of the Col 
d'Iseran, 2,769 m., 9,085 ft. (2J hrs. 
from Val dTsere). 

[N.E. of the pass is the point now 
called Mont or Signal d^Iseran (3,241 
m. , 10,634 ft.), which may be as- 
cended in \\ hr. by its S. or W. 
face, or by a scramble of f hr. by 
its E. ridge from the Col Pers, and 
commands a fine view of the surround- 
ing peaks and glaciers. The view 
may be further extended by crossing 
the Grand Pissaillas glacier nearly 
due E. of the Col dTseran, and then 
mounting by the S. ridge to the 
highest summit of the Aiguille Pers, 
3,451 m. , 11,323 ft. (rather over 2 
hrs. from the Col), this point being 
the loftiest, save the Grande Aiguille 
Rousse, anywhere near the Col.] 

The view from the pass itself is 
limited, but some way down the 
Charbonel, the Ciamarella, and the 
Albaron are seen. The track lies at 
first over stony pastures to the level 
of the torrent flowing from the Grand 
Pissaillas glacier. It crosses to the 
left bank where the glen contracts into 
a gorge, and traverses high above 
that ravine before descending to re- 
join the stream in the wide green 
basin of Lenta. Several groups of 
chalets are passed, and the torrent is 
crossed to its right bank at a small 
chapel where the Lenta stream de- 
scends more rapidly. Hence a series 
of stony zigzags bring the traveller 
down to the new Chalet Hotel, just 
above the hamlet of Bonneval, 1,835 
m., 6,021 ft. (a short 2 hrs. from the 
pass.) Bonneval and its neighbour- 
hood are described in § 13. Rte. F. 3. 

[Mountaineers may find many more 
interesting ways from Val dTsere to 
Bonneval, apart from that by the Col 
du Bouquetin, far to the E. of the 
Col dTseran (see § 13. Rte. K). The 



ROUTE B. BOURG ST. MAURICE TO LANSLEBOURG 229 



ridge W. of the track over the Col 
dTseran, stretching from the Col to the 
Pointe de Mean Martin, can be 
crossed in several places by easy 
passes. A much-recommended route 
is to mount past the Onglietta lake to 
the Les sieves glacier, and thence to 
traverse the ridge southwards to the 
highest point on it, the Pelaou Blanc 
(3,136 m., 10,289 ft-)> commanding a 
glorious panorama ; the descent may 
be made by its S. ridge to the Col 
des Fours, and the Iseran track 
joined near the highest bridge on the 
Bonneval side. A rather longer ex- 
pedition is to mount the whole of the 
Calabourdane glen to the Col des 
Roches, at the N. foot of the Pointe 
de Mean Martin (3,337 m., 10,949 
ft. ), another fine panoramic point easily 
gained hence ; Bessans or Bonneval 
may be reached by descending its 
S. face, or Bonneval direct from the 
Col. A third way is to climb the 
Pointe de la Sana (3,450 m., 11,319 
ft.) from Val dTsere (see § 14. Rte. 
A), and then to traverse E. to the 
Col des Roches, or S. E. to the Col de 
Mean Martin, between the Pointe 
and Aiguille (3,288m., 10,788 ft.) of 
that name, each being easily acces- 
sible hence, and so to gain either 
Bonneval or Bessans by the great 
path which traverses the pastures 
above the rock wall, N.W. of the road 
between those two places. j] 

The road crosses the Arc by a stone 
bridge which seems out of character 
in so rugged and poor a region, and 
follows the left bank of the stream 
through a wild defile. Soon after 
issuing from it the road passes beneath 
the chapel of N. D. des Graces, close 
to the bridge over the torrent from 
the Averole glen (see § 13. Rte. B), 
and presently reaches (6m.) the large 
village of Bessans (1,742 m. , 5,715 
ft. ), described in § 13. Rte. F. 1. On 
leaving it the road crosses the Arc, 
follows its right bank, and crosses the 
low depression of the Collet de la Mag- 
deleine, before descending to traverse 
the Arc at (5-J m.) Bans le Villard 
(whence there is a short cut to the first 



! zigzag of the Mont Cenis road), the 
i river being crossed once more before 
j the large decayed and straggling vil- 
lage of Lanslebourg is attained, \\ m. 
■■ (See for the routes hence over the 
j Mont Cenis Pass, and down the Arc 
i valley to Modane, § 7. Rte. B. ) 

£From Lanslebourg it is an easy 
. ascent of 4-5 hrs. up the Roc des 
Pignes glacier to the Pointe de Ronce, 
J 3,618 m., 11,871 ft. (see § 13. Rte. 
A. ) Another pleasant climb from 
that village is the Grand Roc Noir 
(3,537 ni., 1 1,605 ft.), on the N. The 
summit, which commands a very fine 
view, may be reached in 5^ hrs. or less 
by the S.E. ridge and E. face, up 
which there is a convenient gully in 
the rocks. The neighbouring Pointe 
de Vallonet may be hence gained in 
40 min. from the S., but, as it is 
certainly lower than the Boc Noir, 
the height (3,566 m., 1 1,700 ft. ) as- 
! signed to it on the French map is 
certainly wrong. It is easy to de- 
scend from the Roc Noir by the little 
j glacier S.E. of the summit to the 
Fesse chalets (2 hrs. ), whence the Col- 
let de la Magdeleine is but an hour 
I distant, so that these summits can be 
i taken in a day on the way from 
j Lanslebourg to Bessans. J 

History of the Mont Iseran. — In 
the case of an unknown district of the 
I Alps it not unfrequently happens 
that mistakes are made as to the 
j peaks thereof, either by the natives, 
! who are inclined to believe their own 
: mountains the highest, or among the 
I highest in the Alps, or by travellers, 
whether through flights of fancy or 
erroneous observations. But a much 
i more fertile source of error is the 
; negligence or carelessness of map 
I surveyors, who naturally do not pay 
! much attention to high peaks, as low 
and easy passes are practically more 
j useful. Now the remarkable fable 
I that just E. of the Col dTseran there 
j exists a lofty peak, the Mont Iseran, 
j 13,271 or 13,275 ft. in height, is in 
i no way due to the natives, who from 
j early days have called, and still call, 
I the pass the 'Col du Mont Iseran,' 



230 GRAIAN ALPS. § 12. GRANDE CASSE DISTRICT 



therein following a very common 
practice ; witness the Mont Genevre, 
the Mont Cenis, the Mont St. Ber- 
nard, the Monte Moro, the Mont St. 
Gotthard, &c. ; occasionally, indeed, 
they may have extended this name to 
the neighbouring peaks and glaciers, 
but there is no evidence that the 
natives on either side of the pass ever 
attributed any extraordinary height to 
any peak near the pass. That was 
reserved for the fancy of a writer who 
had never visited these regions, a 
fancy confirmed by the amazing mis- 
take made, for some reason as yet 
undiscovered, by the Sardinian 
engineers. As the subject is of very 
considerable historical interest, and is 
not very well known in England, it 
may be convenient to give here a 
sketch of the origin and fall of this 
impostor, who has never existed save 
on paper. The present Editor (W. 
A. B. C. ) is preparing a detailed 
monograph as to the matter, pending 
the publication of which reference 
may well be made to a very clear out- 
line, giving all the main points, pub- 
lished in 1893 at Grenoble by M. 
Henri Ferrand under the title of 
4 Histoire du Mont Iseran. ' 

Possibly alluded to as ' mohs Cales 
-et Cinisius major,' in 1574 by Josias 
Simler, of Zurich, in his ' De Alpibus 
Commentarius,' and certainly tra- 
versed in 1689 by the Vaudois, and 
described by their leader, Henri 
Arnaud, in his history of the ' Glori- 
euseRentree' (1710), under the name 
of the 'Mont Tisseran,' the pass is 
mentioned and briefly noticed by at 
least three of the chief French military 
topographers of the eighteenth cen- 
tury, Brunet de PArgentiere (1742), 
Montannel (1777), and the marquis 
de Pezay (1793), being called in each 
case the ' Mont Iseran. ' The exist- 
ence of a pass implies, of course, that 
eminences of some sort lie on either 
side of it, but before 1801 the allu- 
sions even to these are very meagre. 
It should be noticed, however, that 
about 17 old maps, ranging from 
1680 to 1772, place the peak of the 



Mont Iseran north of the Col de la 
Galise, in the position occupied by 
the Pointe de la Galise (3,345 m., 
10,975 ft.) of to-day; the earliest of 
these maps, that of Borgonio, is 
specially remarkable as not only 
naming the peak E. of the Col 
d ; Iseran the ' Mont de Lenta,' but 
also as giving the full name of the 
pass as 4 Col du Mont Iseran. ' But 
by far the larger number of maps 
from 1663 onwards indicate the peak 
of the Mont Iseran as rising S. of the 
Col de la Galise, and E. of the Col 
d'Iseran. In no case, however, is 
a height assigned to it on any of 
these old maps. It is only in 1801-2 
that three writers, quite independently 
of each other, state more or less dis- 
tinctly that E. of the pass there is a 
very lofty peak, also mentioning as 
something quite different the mule 
pass which is at its foot. Thus 
Bourcet (1801) mentions the Mont 
Iseran as rising between two of the 
divisions into which he parcelled out 
the Alps, and as giving birth to the 
Arc and Isere. In the same year 
Brossier speaks of this summit as the 
loftiest of the group of the Galise. 
But it is Albanis Beaumont (1802) 
who first, entirely out of his own 
head, gives a glowing description of 
the great granite colossus which rises 
between the valleys of Tignes, Bonne- 
valj Locana, and Cogne, and from 
whose flanks stream forth the Isere, 
the Arc, and the Stura. Passing 
i over the mistakes as to the Cogne 
valley and the Stura river (due, 
I as in the case of Simler, to imperfect 
j knowledge of the intricate topography ) , 
i the whole of the description is quite 
; accurate, save in its most important 
■ particular, the exceeding great height 
of the peak. Perhaps Beaumont had 
j seized the very important topo- 
graphical position of the mountain 
! mass between the Col d'Iseran and 
the main ridge, and feeling instinc- 
! tively that a very high peak ought to 
j have existed there, jumped to the 
natural, but wholly unfounded, 
conclusion that it did exist there. 



ROUTE B. HISTORY OF THE MONT ISERAN 



231 



In reality the loftiest summit is the 
Grande Aiguille Rousse, which is 
considerably lower than any of its 
great neighbours, the Grand Paradis, 
the Levanna, and the Sassiere. 

But these hints seem to have passed 
without notice. Between 1806 and 
181 1 Corabceuf (whose results were 
published in 1825 only) measured a 
lofty peak (4,045 m., 13,271 ft.) be- 
tween Monte Rosa and the Roche- 
melon ; he calls it Mont Iseran, but 
the latitude and longitude he gives 
make it certain that this peak was 
really the Grand Paradis. The same 
name was given to the same peak by 
von Welden (1824), who measured 
its height as 4,046 m. (13,275 ft.) 
In 1825 appeared vol. i. of the 
4 Operations Geodesiques et Astro- 
nomiques pour la mesure d'un Arc 
du parallele moyen,' made by a party 
of Piedmontese and Austrian officers. 
The map annexed marks the pass 
only, but in two of the Panoramas the 
true Levanna is called Mont Iseran, 
the latter name being probably given 
in a third to the Albaron, as can be 
shown by modern photographs. But 
nothing whatever is said as to the 
height of either peak or pass. In 
1829 Brockedon (whose narrative 
appears in the 1st edition, 1838, of 
4 Murray'), and in 1839 Forbes, 
crossed the pass, but noted no very 
high peak near it. Neither did 
Brockedon (before 1836) or Mr. Mal- 
kin (1843), when on the Col de la 
Galise, nor Mr. Ball in 1853, or an 
unknown traveller in 1854, who both 
crossed the Col de la Leisse. Mr. 
Weld (before 1850) and the Schlag- 
intweits ( 1 8 5 1 ) both crossed the 
Col dTseran itself, but preserve a 
remarkable silence about this lofty 
summit. Yet in 1845 it had been 
' created ' by the Sardinian surveyors 
and engineers in their work, 4 Le 
Alpi che cingono 1' Italia.' On their 
map they mark (without heights) both 
the pass and the peak E. of it ; in 
their 4 Profilo geometrico ' the Mont 
Iseran appears as distinctly lower 
than the Grande Casse, to which the 



height of 3,863 m. (12,674 ft.) is 
attributed ; finally, in their Table of 
Peaks and Passes (as well as several 
times in their text) they mention the 
Mont Iseran (4,045 m., 13,271 ft.), 
the height being expressly said to be 
taken from the observations of the 
French engineers — that is, from Cora- 
bceuf. But now comes the strangest 
part of the story, which to this day 
remains unexplained : while taking 
the height from Corabeeuf they 
altered (why, is the darkest of mys- 
teries) both his latitude and longitude, 
those invented by them transporting 
his peak and his height to the position 
just E. of the Col dTseran, where the 
name had long stood on the old maps. 
These results were reproduced on the 
Sardinian map, scale ^uoo' this 
sheet being originally issued in 1853. 
But no one seems to have paid much, 
if any, attention to these remarkable 
statements, for the district was 
scarcely ever visited by travellers. It 
turned out, however, that the very 
first expedition made (Sept. 1859) 
by Mr. W. Mathews in the Taren- 
taise Alps, with the exploration of 
which his name will ever be honour - 
ably associated, was the passage of 
the Col dTseran, during which he 
was quite unable to see with his own 
eyes this lofty peak of 4,045 m., or 
13,271 ft., or to obtain any information 
from his local guide concerning it. 
He therefore began to suspect its 
very existence. In Aug. i860 he 
was again unable to see it from the 
Sassiere, which is just opposite its 
alleged position. Next month Mr. 
J. J. Co well twice crossed the Col, 
ascended the W. Levanna, and finally 
the point 3,241 m., 10,634 ft. (the 
Mont Iseran of to-day), proving be- 
yond the possibility of a doubt that 
this peak of 13,000 ft. in height was 
an invention ; and to him belongs the 
honour of having first published this 
discovery in his classical paper in 
4 Vacation Tourists in i860' (1861), 
Mr. Mathews' account appearing in 
1862 only in the 2nd Series of 
4 Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers.' Be- 



232 GRAIAN ALPS. § 12. GRANDE CASSE DISTRICT 



fore Mr. Mathews' first expedition 
the 1st Series of the last-named work 
had appeared (June 1859), and in 
the list of the chief mountains of the 
Alps, at the end, we find ' No. 26. 
Mont Iseran, 13,271 ft. (Coraboeuf),' 
between the Gross Viescherhorn and 
the Laquinhorn. Early in the summer 
of i860 appeared the 1st edition of 
Joanne's ' Savoie,' and it is doubtless 
owing to the very precise account (by 
M. Elisee Reclus) of the lofty Mont 
Iseran, 4,046 m. , 13,275 ft. (including 
an account of its ascent, though not 
of the view from the summit, as it is 
stated that clouds often veil it), that 
the invention (though dating only 
from 1845) °f tn i s lofty summit has 
struck such deep roots that as lately 
as 1872 the ' Times,' in 1889 a 
French guide-book, and in 1890 a 
French map, all firmly believed in its 
existence. Yet the explorations of 
Signor Baretti (1S63-4), of Messrs. 
Bonney and Taylor (1864), and of 
Mr. Nichols (1866) had simply con- 
firmed the discovery made in 1859- 
1860. In 1862 the French engineers 
climbed the peak just E. of the pass, 
found its height was but 3.241 m. 
(10,634 ft.), built a great cairn there, 
and gave it its present name of 
' Signal du Mont Iseran,' but their 
map was not issued till 1873. As a 
curiosity it may be mentioned that on 
the latest map published by the French 
Government (the ' Carte Vicinale ') 
the peak is neither indicated, named, 
nor given any height. Nowadays, 
when the mountains E. of the Col are 
far better known than they have ever 
been before, it seems all but incredible 
that a peak which had only a short 
existence, 1845- 1859, an d that merely 
on paper, should have retained its 
hold on the mind of geographers in a 
far greater degree than the mistakes 
as to the Pic and the Aiguille d'Olan, 
the Cima di Mercantour, the heights 
of the St. Gotthard, or the doubts as 
to the whereabouts of the true summit 
cf Monte Rosa. It may be added 
that the theory which accounted for 
the creation of the lofty Mont Iseran 



by supposing a confusion between the 
Grand Paradis, the Levanna, and the 
Sassiere, seen from different points in 
the direction of the imaginary peak, 
is, though plausible in itself, not borne 
out by the facts when studied,, as 
above, from a purely historical point 
of view. 



Route C. 

LA CHAMBRE TO MOL TIERS BY THE 
COL DE LA MADELEINE. 

This pass is traversed by a good 
mule path (at either end becoming, 
indeed, a char road), and is much fre- 
quented by the country people, as it is 

\ the easiest and shortest way from the 
Maurienne to the Tarentaise, but it is 
very rarely visited by strangers. 7 hrs. 
suffice for the passage, and in fine 
weather a guide is quite unnecessary. 

From the village of La Chambre 
(§ 7. Rte. A) a mule path crosses 
the Bugeon torrent, and mounts above 
its right bank past Mongellafrey to- 
wards the pass. But the more fre- 
quented way is to mount from La 
Chambre by a char road to St. Martin 
de la Chambre, and then to follow 
the good mule path on the left bank 
of the Bugeon towards the pass. 
Both tracks join at the highest chalets, 
a short distance below the pass, 1,984 
m., 6,509 ft. (4 hrs. from La 
Chambre). Hence it is apparent that 
the Villards or Glandon glen (ij 8. 
Rte. E), on the opposite side of the 
Arc valley, and the Ce liters glen, on 
the N. side of the Col, are the con- 
tinuation, in opposite directions of the 

\ trough, of which the central portion 
is the Bugeon glen, by which the Col 

\ is reached from La Chambre. 

[From the pass the Cheval Noir 
(2,834 m., 9,298 ft.), on the S.E., 
can be climbed in 2\ hrs. To the 

! N.W. rise the jagged aiguilles of the 

I Lauziere group — badly figured on the 



ROUTE D. ST. JEAN TO MOUTIERS 



233 



maps — of which the culminating 
point has been named the Grand de la 
Lauziere (2,797 m., 9,177 ft. ) ; it may 
he climbed in \\ hr. from the foot of 
the Celliers glacier by the N. ridge, 
tjie last \ hr. alone offering a scramble: 
this glacier can be reached in about 
3 hrs. either by a traverse from the 
Col or direct from the hamlet of 
Celliers. J 

At the Rosets chalets, some way 
down the N. slope of the pass, the 
track divides. One mule path follows 
the left bank of the torrent past Cel- 
liers , and other hamlets, to Bonne- 
val, whence a char road descends 
to the jW. D. de Briancon station 
(3 hrs.), on the line between Albert- 
ville and Moutiers (Rte. A. above), 
5 m. from Moutiers. The more fre- 
quented way (also a mule path) 
crosses from Rosets to the right bank 
of the torrent, which is followed for 
some distance. The path finally turns 
to the right, crosses a low ridge, and 
descends to Doucy, whence a char 
road leads down by many zigzags to 
Bellecombe (3 hrs.), close to the 
junction of the Morel torrent with 
the Isere. That torrent, and then the 
Isere, are crossed in order to gain the 
Aigueblanche station, 5 m. from 
Doucy and 1 m. only from Moutiers. 

(The Morel torrent descends from 
the pretty Combe des Avanckers, which 
opens on the S. of Bellecombe. From 
the hamlet of Avanchers a mule track 
leads in 4 hrs. over the Col du Golet 
to Villarly, in the Belleville glen (see 
Rte. E), while another path leads 
across the Col de la Cocke to Fontaine, 
lower down the same glen. ) 



Route D. 

st. jp:an de maurienne to mou- 
tiers BY THE COL DE LA FLATIERE. 

This is a very interesting pass, and 
when better known will probably be 



often visited by tourists. In the 
apparent difficulty of the ascent from 
the Maurienne side, it may almost be 
compared to the Gemmi, but is 
longer and more laborious than that 
famous pass. It is said that 1 1 hrs. 
are required from St. Jean de Mau- 
rienne to Moutiers. There is a char 
i road to Hermillon, and a mule path 
; thence to the pass, whence a foot 
■ track leads down to the Fuz chalets, 
I where the mule path commences, 
this in its turn becoming a char road 
at the Sausse chalets. 

From the railway station of St. 
Jean de Maurienne (§ 7. Rte. A) a 
bridge crosses the Arc, and a country 
road leads to Hermillon (~ hr. ) 
Here the mule path turns sharply to 
! the right, or rather S. of E., and 
mounts gradually along the base of a 
range of limestone cliffs to the chapel 
of N. D. de Alonlandrey (1 hr. ), a 
well-known sanctuary, annually re- 
| sorted to by large numbers of pilgrims 
! on Sept. 8. 1 A new path now climbs 
the Eckaillon precipices direct from 
1 the Arc to this spot.) Immediately 
above the church is a rock which 
commands a remarkably fine view of 
the high peaks between the Arc and 
Romanche valleys, and of the Arvan 
glen. After passing the mean vil- 
lage of Montandrey the track turns 
to the N., and mounts along the 
upper verge of the cliffs, the base 
of which it had previously skirted. 
Hermillon lies at a great depth 
below. After mounting rapidly for 
a good \ hr. the path turns N.E. 
in the direction of the Col, continuing 
to ascend for another \ hr. amidst 
fine old pine trees. On emerging 
from the forest the path seems to have 
entered a cul de sac, closed by im- 
passable rocks ; but a chimney, through 
which the track is carried by a series 
of steep zigzags, affords an issue. 
This leads to the pasture terrace of 
Planey, whence a last view is gained 
of the valley of the Arc, and of the 
town of St. Jean de Maurienne. 
Above Planey the extensive pastures, 
on which are several groups of chalets, 



234 



GRAIAN ALPS. § 12. GRANDE CASSE DISTRICT 



stretch towards the Col, and after 
skirting the edge of a formidably 
steep ravine which opens on the W. 
the track reaches the chalets of Plan 
de Monsieur (3 J- hrs. from Hermillon). 
In fine weather it is now easy to find 
the way, as the depression of the pass 
remains in view, and is marked by a 
square rock in the midst, called the 
Bonnet du Pretre. To the right the 
Perron des Encombres is seen above 
the nearer ridge dividing this plateau 
from the Encombres glen. At a 
bifurcation of the mule path, the best 
marked branch, that to the right, 
must be avoided, as it leads over the 
Col du Chdtelard, or de la Varlos sieve 
(marked by a wooden cross), to the 
path from the Col des Encombres, in 
the glen of the same name. That to 
the left leads up in about 2 hrs. from 
Plan de Monsieur (or 6 hrs. from St. 
Jean de Maurienne) to the Col de la • 
Platier e , or Pas de la Roche (c.2, 600 m . , 
8,531 ft.) It is possible to pass on 
either side of the Bonnet du Pretre, 
but the track keeps to its left. The 
view from the pass is limited, except to 
the N.E. , where the range of Moat 
Blanc, towering over the intermediate 
ranges, produces a grand effect. 

The descent on the N. side of the 
Col leads into the Nant Brun glen, 
which is wild and rather dreary, bare \ 
of trees, and surrounded by slopes of 
debris, with here and there a patch of 
snow. The foot path leads down 
stones, and then along a promontory 
of shattered slate, which projects be- : 
tween two ravines. In f for. the 
track reaches a point where the Nant 
Brun, formed by the union of the 
streams that drain the head of the 
valley, has cut a deep ravine through 
the rock. The track keeps to the 
left bank, and in I hr. more, at the 
chalets of Puz, becomes a mule path. 
Some marshy meadows, the bed of an 
ancient lake, are traversed, and be- 
tween the highest huts ( Vavbuche) 
and Puz, after passing the next gorge, 
which formerly held back the waters 
of the lake, the path gradually recedes 
from the torrent, and is henceforward 



carried along the W. slope of the 
valley, at a considerable height above 
the stream. In about 2 hrs. from the 
Col it crosses the considerable affluent 
of the Sausse torrent, descending from 
the W. , and beyond attains the Sausse 
chalets, whence there is a char road. 
20 min. farther is the village of Deux 
Nants, at the junction of another 
stream from the W. with the Nant 
Brun. The valley here becomes very 
picturesque. A pine forest clothes 
the opposite mountain slopes, while 
lower down corn fields are seen, with 
houses and mills, scattered amidst 
fine walnut trees. Three-quarters of 
an hour below Deux Nants is the 
village of St. Jean de Belleville, 
picturesquely placed above the junc- 
tion of the Nant Brun with the Belle- 
ville glen. It is 2 hrs. (6 m.) more 
by a carriage road to Moutiers, the 
route being identical with that from 
the Col des Encombres, described in 
the next Rte. 



Route E. 

ST. MICHEL DE MAURIENNE TO MOU- 
TIERS BY THE COL DES ENCOMBRES. 

This is a direct, but dreary and 
rather tedious, pass. The torrent 
descending from the Col joins the 
Arc about 2 miles below St. Michel, 
but the char road mounts by zigzags 
from St. Michel itself, winds W. of 
Thyl along the mountain-side, and 
having crossed several ravines reaches 
the village of Beaune (1 hr. ), which 
commands a fine view up the two 
glens of Valloire and Valmeinier, on 
the opposite side of the Arc. 

[Just E. of Beaune is the Mont 
Bvequin (3,194 m., 10,479 ft.), easily 
reached from the Col de la Pievve 
Blanche, on its N.W. ; by this pass 
the Bruyeres huts, at the head of the 
Belleville glen, can be gained in 
about 6 hrs. from St. Michel, or 



ROUTE E. ST. MICHEL DE MA'URIE^NE TO MOUTIERS 235 



those of Thorens^ i|- hr. higher up, I 
in 7 hrs. by crossing the spur between 
the two uppermost arms of the Belle- \ 
ville glen.] 

The Col des Encombres (2,337 m., 
J,668 ft.) lies due N. of Beaune, and 
is reached by a mule path in about 
3 hrs. from that place. 20 min. 1 
before gaining the pass are the Sausse \ 
chalets, with a Club hut (several beds), 
whence the Perron des E7ico?nbres \ 
(2,828 m., 9,279 ft.), to the N.W., i 
may be climbed in 2-| hrs. , the view 
from the summit being very exten- 
sive. 

There are two chief ways of de- 
scending from the pass to St. Martin 
de Belleville. 

(a) That through the Encombres 
glen on the N. is the most frequented, 
and has the advantage of a mule path. 
The path follows throughout the right 
bank of the torrent (for the Col de la 
Varlossiere see last Rte.), and leads 
to Le Chatelard, above the junction 
of the Encombres and Belleville 
torrents. St. Martin is just opposite, 
and is gained in about 3 hrs. from the 
pass. 

(b) A rather longer way is through j 
the Belleville glen, which is reached 
by a foot path from the Col which 
traverses to the right to the Collet 
Bla,7ic (2,669 m -j 8,757 ft.), and then 
descends into the same arm of the 
glen which is gained from the Col de 
la Pierre Blanche. A stony ravine 
leads down to the Bruyeres huts, 
whence there is a bad char road 
through the smiling Belleville glen to 
St. Martin (3 hrs. from the Col). 
But if bound from St. Michel direct 
to the Belleville glen, the Col de la 
Pierre Blanche is far shorter than the 
detour by the Col des Encombres. 

(c) A third way to St. Martin is to j 
keep high up above the right bank of j 
the Encombres torrent and to cross 
the ridge to the pretty glen of Gef- 
friand, through which St. Martin is 
gained. 

St. Martin de Belleville ( 1 , 3S0 m. , j 
4,528 ft.), the chief village of the | 
valley, stands on a terrace in the | 



midst of walnut and chestnut trees. 
Several easy paths lead hence over to 
the Combe des Allues, on the E. 

The main char road soon crosses 
over to the left bank of the torrent, 
which is followed through pleasing 
scenery past St. Jean de Belleville 
(5 m. from St. Martin), Villarly, and 
Fontaine (for the paths from these 
villages over to the Avanchers glen 
see Rte. C. above), descending at last 
by some great zigzags to Moutiers 
(3 hrs. or 11 m. from St. Martin). 
There is also a mule path (perhaps 
now a char road) which runs above 
the right bank of the stream from St. 
Martin to Salins, 1 m. from Moutiers. 



Route F. 

ST. MICHEL OR MODANE TO MOU- 
TIERS OR PRALOGNAN BY THE 
PECLET GROUP. 

Between the well-known routes 
over the Cols des Encombres and de 
Chaviere there rises a very consider- 
able, though as yet little frequented, 
glacier-covered group of mountains, 
which culminates in the Aiguilles de 
Peclet (3,566 m., 11,700 ft.) and de 
Polset (3,538 m., 11,608 ft.), both 
climbed for the first time by English 
travellers, who otherwise have paid 
hardly any attention to this region. 
These summits rise in about the centre 
of the group, which is of considerable 
length from N. to S., but not very 
broad, save at its S. end. S. of 
these peaks is the extensive Chaviere 
glacier, which drains to the E. to- 
wards the upper part of the Chaviere 
or Polset glen, while on the W. it is 
all but level with three smaller glaciers, 
those of Renod, Bonchet, and Thorens. 
The latter descends towards the 
chalets of the same name, at the head 
of the S. E.most of the two arms of the 
Belleville glen, while the two others 
flow down into the steep Bouchet 



236 GRAIAN ALPS. § 12. GRANDE CASSE DISTRICT 



glen, the stream from which joins the 
Arc between St. Michel and Mo- 
dane. On the N. the narrow and 
elongated Gebroulaz glacier descends 
into the head of the Combe des A Hues ■, 
which joins the Doron valley at Brides 
les Bains. From the Gebroulaz glacier 
a glacier arm ( Glacier du Lac Blanc) 
flows down N.E. towards the Lac 
Blanc, at the very head of the Doron 
valley, which may also be reached 
lower down by several easy passes. On 
the W. of the Gebroulaz glacier is 
that of Peclet, due E. of the Thorens 
chalets, and separated from the 
Gebroulaz glacier by a rocky ridge 
traversed by the Col de Pec let. It is 
thus evident that the direct route 
through the Peclet group leads from 
the Bouchet glen over the Col de 
Gebroulaz, between the two Aiguilles, 
to the Combe des Allues ; the S. side 
of that pass may be also gained from 
the Chaviere glen on the E. , or that 
of Belleville on the W., while from 
the N. side many ways may be found 
E. into the upper Doron valley. 
Hence many routes may be made 
across this group in various directions, 
the chief of which only can be indi- 
cated here. 

About 3 m. E. of St. Michel, and 
6 m. W. of Modane, is the hamlet of 
Francoz, on the high road between 
those two places. It is close to the 
junction of the Botichet torrent with 
the Arc. A stony foot path mounts 
hence, and crosses the torrent to Bon- 
villard, on its left bank. Beyond, it 
it passes through forests, with pretty 
views of the Aiguilles d'Arves, and 
ascends from one to another of several 
steep steps, the stream descending in 
rapids, till the highest chalets, those 
of Flan Bouchet, are gained (3I hrs. 
from Francoz). 

To the N. and E. of these chalets, 
which stand in a basin at the meeting 
place of several streams and glens, are 
the Bouchet and Re'nod glaciers. Over 
the former (N. ) may be reached the 
Col de Plan Botichet, W. of, and the 
Col du Bouchet, E. of the Pointe de 
Plan Bouchet (3,056 m., 10,027 ft-)? 



both above the Thorens glacier, and 
reached in 2 hrs. from the chalets : 
they command splendid views of the 
Dauphine Alps, and give access in 
\\ hr. more to the Thorens huts in 
the stony hollow at the very head of 
the Belleville glen. 

^Nearly due N. of this hollow is 
the grassy Col de la Chambre, by 
which the Allues glen may be gained 
in 4 hrs. from the true Col de la 
Monte 1 e du Fo7id — W. of the Cime de 
Caron (3,149 m., 10,332 ft.), S.E. of 
which peak is the Col de Caron — 
while to the E. the wide, snowy de- 
pression of the Col de Thorens (3 hrs. 
from the Thorens chalets) gives access 
in 1 hr. more to the Col de Gebroulaz. 
From the Thorens chalets the Col de 
Peclet, S. of the Mont du Borgne, 
leads over a rocky ridge to the 
Gebroulaz glacier (3 hrs. from the 
Thorens huts). J 

But the direct route from the Plan 
Bouchet chalets to the Col de 
Gebroulaz is over the steeper glacier, 
that of Renod, to the E., the Col at 
the head of which, the Col Renod, is 
attained in 2 hrs. from the chalets. 
It is between the Pointe du Bouchet 
(3,407 m., 11,178 ft.) on the N.W. 
(reached in rather over 1 hr. ) and 
the Pointe Renod (3,372 m., 11,063 
ft.) on the S.E. (perhaps accessible 
hence, but as yet ascended only in 
5 hrs. from the Polset chalets, on the 
S.E.) A steep snow slope leads in 
10 m. to the level of the great 
Chaviere glacier, the traverse of 
which in a due N. direction offers no 
difficulty, though quite 2 hrs. are 
required before the Col de Gebroulaz 
(3,470 m., 11,385 ft.) is attained. 

£On the W. the traveller sees easy 
openings (the Col Lory and the Col 
de Thorens) giving access respectively 
to the Bouchet and Thorens glaciers, 
while to the E. a steep descent down 
rocks past three waterfalls, near the 
point 2,655 m - °f the niap, leads 
down to the Polset glen ; nearer the 
Col de Gebroulaz, and N. of the 
point 3,217 m. of the map, the Col 
de Polset crosses a ridge not dis- 



ROUTE F. ST. MICHEL OR MODANE TO MOUTIERS 237 



tinctly marked on the map, and 
leads down the Polset glacier and 
to the N. of a fine waterfall to the 
upper part of the Polset glen, not 
far from the Chaviere lake (if hr. 
from the S. foot of the Polset 
peak). 

As stated above, this lofty snow 
pass lies between the Aiguilles de 
Peclet (3,566 m., 11,700 ft.) and de 
Polset (3,538 m., 11,608 ft.) Both 
may be easily ascended from it. The 
S. base of the former is gained by snow 
in \ hr. , and the summit in -J hr. more 
by debris slopes and the S.E. ridge. 
The highest and central rock pinnacle j 
of the Polset is ascended in J hr. from j 
the pass; the E. summit (3,430 m., j 
11,254 ft.), the fine snow dome so j 
conspicuous from Pralognan, might be J 
also gained in a short time. In 1878 I 
Mr. Coolidge made the first ascent of 
the Peclet by the route described ; in 
1 86 1 Mr. W. Mathews climbed from 
the Col de Chaviere in 2^ hrs. over 
the E. summit of the Polset [ox Dome 
de Polset) to the highest point ; the 
latter was gained from the Col de 
Gebroulaz in 1878 by the route de- 
scribed by Mr. Coolidge, who in 1884 j 
reached the E. summit in 6J hrs. | 
from Pralognan by way of the Lac 
Blanc, the Lac Blanc glacier, and the 
snowy N. face ; both the parties men- 
tioned went down from the S. foot of 
the peak by the Col de Polset to the 
upper Chaviere glen.]] 

Save for some seracs at the foot of 
the Peclet the descent of the Gebrou- 
laz glacier offers no great difficulties, 
a due N. direction being always kept. 

[By bearing N.E. the Col du Lac 
Blanc ; over the N.E. arm of that 
glacier, or Glacier du Lac Blanc, can 
be crossed, and Pralognan gained in 
3 hrs. past the Lac Blanc, where the 
way from the Pas du Soufre, lower 
down that glacier, falls in.] 

The glacier is quitted at its N. ex- 
tremity in 2.\ hrs. , and the Gebroulaz 
chalets gained in \ hr. more, these 
being \ hr. above those of Saut (2,154 
m., 7,067 ft.) 

[Hence the Col Rouge (2,736 m., 



8,977 ft.) leads over direct to the 
Doron glen, near the Ritort chalets.] 

A party bound for Pralognan (which 
has not taken the shorter route by 
the Lac Blanc mentioned above) may 
hence mount E. by a zigzag path to 
the Col de Chanrouge, 2,538 m., 
8,327 ft. (1 hr. ), and then, avoiding 
the direct descent by the Petite Val 
on the N. to Bozel, may work round 
to the depression N. of the Petit 
Mont Blanc de Pralognan [Col des 
Saulces of the French map), 2 hrs., 
whence Pralognan is easily attained 
in if hr. more. 

The direct path from Saut towards 
Brides descends beneath the impos- 
ing rock mass of the Aiguille du 
Fruit (3,056 m., 10,027 ft.) to tne 
Plan chalets, at the head of the 
Combe des Allues proper ( 1 hr. ), 
passing on the way the Fruit chalets, 
whence the pass of that name leads 
over to Bozel, while from them the 
Aiguille du Fruit has been ascended 
with difficulty in 7 \ hrs. , mainly by a 
great couloir in its W. face. From 
the Plan chalets there is a mule path 
to the hamlet of Les Allues, whence 
a char road leads down in 4 m. 
through the pretty pasture valley of 
Allues to Brides les Bains (if hr. ), 
4 m. by carriage road from Moutiers. 



Route G. 

MODANE TO PRALOGNAN BY THE 
COLS DE CHAVIERE AND D'AUSSOIS. 

The Peclet group (described in the 
last Rte. ) is separated from the 
Vanoise Group (described in Rte. H) 
by the long upper valley of the Doron, 
at the head of which rises a tangled 
mountain pass crowned by the Point e 
de VEchelle (3,432 m., 11,260 ft.) 
This mass sends forth on the S. a 
great spur, which separates the 
Chaviere and Aussois glens, which 
join the Arc valley at or near Modane. 



238 GRAIAN ALPS. § 12. GRANDE CASSE DISTRICT 



Each, therefore, leads up to a pass over 
into the upper Doron valley, the Col 
de Chaviere (the more frequented), 
and the Col oV Aussois, passing W. 
and N. E. respectively of the Pointe de 
l'Echelle. Both passes are seen to 
the best advantage when taken from 
Modane, but as that place is 371 m. 
(1,217 ft-) lower than Pralognan, 
each pass is more laborious if Modane 
be taken as the starting point. The 
tracks only join at the Ritort chalets, 
in the Doron valley. 

1. By the Col de Chaviere (7-8 
hrs. ) — From the railway station at 
Modane the traveller must follow the 
high road to the town (20 min. ), 
where an iron bridge crosses the Arc. 
A steep, stony mule path mounts 
nearly due N. , and then through 
woods (broken by great white crags), 
in which it makes a great zigzag. 
The fort of Le Sappey is seen on a 
spur on the other side of the wooded 
gorge to the 1. This ravine is in- 
teresting to the geologist, as it lies 
along the line of junction between the 
Carboniferous rocks to the W. and 
newer Secondary strata to the E. 
The chalets of Pol set (1,809 m., 
5,935 ft.) are 1 \ hr. from the town, 
and here the mule path ends. They 
afford fair night quarters for travellers 
bent on the ascents of the Aiguille de 
Polset or the Pointe Renod (see last 
Rte. ), or of the Pointe de l'Echelle 
(see below). The foot path continues 
to mount steeply above the 1. bank 
of the torrent, till it gains the upper 
stone-strewn basin at the foot of the 
last ascent to the pass (i-J-hr.) To 
the W. are seen the steep cliffs, 
seamed by waterfalls, below the 
Chaviere and Polset glaciers. 

[For the ascent of the Pointe de 
rEehelle (3,432 m., 11,260 ft.) it is 
necessary to strike off to the E. at 
this point, so as to gain the glacier at 
its S.W. foot, whence a broad snow 
couloir leads up to the S. ridge, by 
which the summit is reached in 3 hrs. 
from the path. The view is very 
extensive. If coming direct from 
Polset it is shorter to leave the path 



I sooner, so as to mount to the r. 
I towards the Lac de la Partie.J 

Some slopes of stones and a snow 
slope then lead up to the pass, 
2,806 m., 9,206 ft. (I hr., or 4 \ hrs. 
from the station.) It commands a 
fine view of the Dauphine peaks, and 
of Mont Blanc. 

The track on the other side is at 
i first very indistinct. It is best to 
j bear round to the N.W. so as to gain a 
j small lake, cow tracks then leading 
down to the level of the Doron glen 
' opposite the Ritort chalets (ij hr. 
from the Col), where the mule path 
begins again. On the way the tracks 
to the Gebroulaz glacier by the Lac 
Blanc and by the Pas du Soufre are 
passed, and lower down that over 
the Col Rouge or de Co?'ne?ller to the 
chalets of Saut (see last Rte.) In 
20 min. more the chalets of La Motte 
(the best night quarters in the valley) 
are reached. Beyond, the path con- 
tinues down the valley, crossing and 
! recrossing the stream. The wooded 
mound of La Cholliere is skirted on 
its 1. flank, and then the path descends 
into the basin of Pralognan, a very 
fine view of the Grande Casse being 
i obtained while crossing the meadows 
to the hamlet of Le Barioz. where 
are the inns (ij hr. from La Motte, 
or 3^ hrs. from the Col), 
j 2. By the Col d'Aussois (9 hrs. ) — 
After crossing the Arc by the bridge 
described above, a char road mounts 
1 past the waterfall of St. Benott, above 
the village of Avn'eux, and through 
the Fort of Esseillon by many zigzags 
to the village of Aussois (2 hrs. ) 

£3 hrs. X.E. of Aussois by a direct 
path are the Fournache chalets, the 
most convenient night quarters for 
: the ascent of the Dent Parrachee 
(3,712 m.. 12,179 ft-)? which was 
: ascended hence in 1864 by Messrs. 
Blanford, Cuthbert, and Rowsell, 
who found, a little below the top, a 
: cairn, probably built by the French 
\ engineers. Hence in 2J hrs. the 
j Col de VArpont, on the S.W. ridge 
j of the peak, is gained with difficulty, 
I and the summit in under 2 hrs. more, 



ROUTE G. MODANE TO PRALOGNAN 



239 



along or near the ridge. The view is 
one of the noblest in the Alps. The 
descent from the Col to the Dent 
Parrachee glacier takes only 20 min. 
Thence the Arpont chalets, on the 
N. E. , can be gained in 2 hrs. , or, if 
preferred, one of the summits of the 
Dome de Chasseforet ridge, on the 
N.W., climbed, in 3 hrs. or so, or 
traversed, Pralognan being gained 
either by the Genepy glacier or the 
Nants glen. Difficult routes have 
been forced up the Dent Parrachee 
from the S. and from the E. , but 
that from P^ournache is the best. It 
is, of course, possible to sleep at the 
Trois Granges, above Termignon, and 
then gain the Col de PArpont by its 
N. slope. J 

A mule path mounts from Aussois 
by a succession of terraces of green 
pasture, separated by steep steps of 
pine-covered rock, the torrent forming 
pretty cascades alongside of the path, 
and passes many chalets, before the 
highest, those of Fond (2,333 m., 
7,655 ft.), are attained in 2 hrs. from 
Aussois. 

[Hence two variations on the ordi- 
nary route over the pass can be made. 
One consists in ascending N.E. , and 
by easy snow slopes gaining the 
Pierre Huin ide, 3,520m., 1 1 , 5 49 ft . 
(4 hrs.), at the meeting point of 
several ridges ; hence the descent 
may be made by the 1. bank of the 
Genepy glacier to the La Motte 
chalets in the valley of the Doron, 
and so to Pralognan (5 hrs.), or by 
skirting along its E. slope at first the 
Dome de Chasseforet ridge may be 
attained, and crossed in various direc- 
tions. Another variation is to mount 
nearly due N. from the Fond chalets 
in 2 hrs. to the depression W. of the 
Roche Chevriere ( 3, 282 m. , 10, 768 ft. ), 
thence accessible in f hr. , and com- 
manding a fine view ; the descent on 
the other side of this depression soon 
joins the ordinary route. J 

The ascent from Fond to the Col 
d' Aussois lies slightly N.W., and is 
very steep, taking 2 hrs. or so. The 
pass, near which there is a cross, is 



9,228 ft. in height, and the prospect 
thence includes Mont Blanc, the 
Pourri, the Chasseforet, and the 
Peclet group. It is separated from 
the depression at the W. foot of the 
Roche Chevriere by a long ridge 
rising in apeak of 3,156 m. (10,355 ft. ), 
the traverse from one depression to 
the other, mainly along the ridge, 
taking nearly 2 hrs. The route on 
the N. slope lies down snow a.nd 
stones, I hr. sufficing to reach a great 
cairn at the edge of the steep descent 
{\ hr. ) to the Ritort chalets, where 
the Doron is crossed to join the Col 
de Chaviere path, by which Pralognan 
is attained in less than 2 hrs. more. 



Route H. 

MOUTIERS TARENTAISE TO PRALO- 
GNAN. EXCURSIONS AND ASCENTS 
FROM PRALOGNAN. ASCENT OF 
THE GRANDE CASSE. 

Carriage road (16^ m. ) to Pralognan. 

The excursion from Moutiers to 
Pralognan is one that should be 
omitted by no traveller visiting these 
regions, for Pralognan is one of the 
most charming spots in the district, 
while the good new inn forms an 
excellent headquarters. On the way 
the mineral springs of Salins and 
Brides are passed, the drive whence 
up to Pralognan is one of the favourite 
methods of beguiling the weariness of 
a ' cure. ' 

The high road crosses the Isere on 
leaving Moutiers, and runs along the 
right bank of the Doron to ( r m. ) 

Salins (492 m., 1,614 ft.), opposite 
the opening of the Belleville glen 
(Rte. E). Here are salt springs, the 
water containing a considerable pro- 
portion of common salt, and sulphate 
of lime, along with a moderate 
quantity of carbonate of lime, and 
other salts. They are now largely 



GRAIAN ALPS. § 12. GRANDE CASSE DISTRICT 



used for bathing purposes, and there 
is a fine new Etablisseme?tt Thermal. 
These salts are now evaporated by a 
new process, but the old method 
(chiefly for obtaining culinary salts) is 
picturesque enough to deserve a short 
description, as, though of the simplest 
kind, it was yet effectual. The water 
from the springs was conducted 
through a long succession of sheds by 
means of gutters, from which it was 
allowed to drop slowly over faggots 
of thin twigs, and was finally brought 
into .a building, where it trickled 
down a vast number of cords arranged 
vertically in frames. The effect was 
to deposit on the branches of the 
faggots, and the cords, the greater 
part of the calcareous salts which the 
water holds in solution, and to pro- 
duce a highly concentrated solution 
of common salt, which was then 
evaporated with a comparatively trifl- 
ing expenditure of fuel. When the 
deposit of stalactitic matter became 
excessive, the faggots were renewed, 
and the cords cleaned of their load by 
a few blows of a mallet. 

The road crosses to the left bank 
of the Doron, some way above its 
confluence with the torrent from the 
Belleville glen, and mounts along that 
bank, in full view of the Vanoise ice 
fields, and the Grand Bee de Pralo- 
gnan, to (3 m. ) 

Brides les Bains (570m., 1,870 ft.), 
now one of the most fashionable 
watering places in Europe. The 
mineral springs were only rediscovered 
after having long been buried, in 
1 81 8, by an inundation of the Doron 
which washed away the earth and 
rocks by which they were obstructed. 
The waters are alkaline, a modified 
form of those at Carlsbad, and effica- 
cious in maladies of the stomach. 
Brides now possesses a large new 
Etablissement Thermal, and good 
hotels, and is more and more fre- 
quented every year. It is prettily 
situated, and many pleasant excursions 
may be made from it, for which 
reference should be made to the de- 
tailed account in £ Joanne. ' A moun- 



taineer will prefer to escape to Pra- 
lognan, where the air is much fresher 
and keener. 

[Brides stands at the opening of the 
pretty Combe des Alines, up which 
there is now a char road ; it has been 
said that it terminates in impassable 
glaciers, an expression which, as has 
I well been observed, merely means that 
no one had attempted to pass them ; 
but this reproach has been removed 
for the last twenty years at least, as 
was shown in Rte. F. above. 3 

There is a char road along the right 
bank of the Doron to Bozel, but that 
which winds above the left bank is 
I better shaded and more picturesque, 
! the Doron being crossed just before 
entering (4 m. ) 

Bozel (877 m., 2,877 ft-) This is 
a large village at the S. foot of the 
Montjovet (accessible hence in 4hrs. 
by a mule path), and opposite the 
rocky pyramid of the Dent du Villard, 
which rises between the Grande Val 
on the W. and the Doron on the E. 
The Grand Bee towers up finely to- 
wards the E. (Pedestrians may vary- 
the way to Pralognan by ascending 
the Grande Val on the S. , and cross- 
ing the passes N. or S. of the Petit 
Mont Blanc (see below), or may reach 
Saut, and so the Combe des Allues, 
: by the Col de Chanrouge : see Rte. F. ) 

Soon after quitting Bozel the road 
l up the Champagny valley (see Rte. 
! L) mounts towards Champagny, 
; while that to Pralognan descends to- 
1 wards the Doron and attains the 
\ village of Villard (2 m. ), standing 
amidst beautiful scenery at the junc- 
tion of the Premon, flowing from the 
Champagny valley, with the Doron. 
Above the junction there is a steep 
rocky slope up which the carriage 
road climbs by several zigzags, 
through a fine pine forest, to a 
chapel on the summit of this steep 
ascent, the hamlet of Planay being a 
little way beyond (3 m. from Villard). 

[The Doron itself descends on the 
right hand through a splendid gorge, 
in a succession of cascades, those of 
I Ballandaz. It is quite worth while 



ROUTE H. MOUTIERS TARENTAISE TO PRALOGNAN 241 



for a pedestrian to follow the path 
through this gorge to the cascades, at 
the bottom of a deep gorge, a path 
leading up thence to Planay, which is 
reached in about f hr. from Villard 
by this striking route. For the forest 
path to Planay, in the Premou glen, 
see Rte. L.J 

The scenery above this ascent com- 
pletely changes its character. The 
Doron now flows through a nearly 
level valley, the lower slopes of which, 
covered with pine forests, are domi- 
nated by peaks of great boldness and 
variety of form. This is, however, 
only for a time, as after passing near 
the chapel of N. D. des JVei^es, op- 
posite the hamlet of Villeneuve, the 
road crosses to the left bank of the 
Doron, and mounts by zigzags amidst 
splendid forests through the Mont- 
charvet gorge, the summit of this 
second step being marked by a large 
cross (2jm. ) The road is thence 
carried at a level along that bank of the 
Doron, and some scattered houses are 
passed, as well as some bosses of rocks, 
rounded by the passage of ancient 
glaciers, till a sudden turn (1 m.) 
discloses the green basin of Pralognan, 
at the further end of which, across the 
Doron, at the hamlet of Le Barioz, 
are the inns, church, &c. 

Pralognan (1,424 m., 4,672 ft.) is 
charmingly placed at the junction of 
the Gliere torrent, descending from 
the Col de la Vanoise (see next Rte.), 
with the Doron, descending nearly 
due N. from the Col de Chaviere (see 
last Rte. ) The basin is rather shut 
in, though very pretty, and the Grande 
Casse can only be seen by a stroll 
across the meadows to the S. On 
the S.E. rise the precipitous cliffs of 
the Grand March et, while at the 
head of the Doron valley is seen a 
fine snowy cone, the E. summit (3,430 
m., 11,254 ft.) of the Aiguille de 
Polset. 

Less picturesque than Cogne, and 
less Alpine in appearance than Val 
d'Isere, or Bonneval, its chief rivals 
in the Graians, Pralognan is admir- 
ably situated for the exploration of 

I. 



j the central mass of the Tarentaise 
Alps, or the Vanoise group, the first 
accurate knowledge of which we owe 
to the careful explorations of Mr. W. 
Mathews. This group lies between 
I the upper Doron valley on the W., 
that of Premou on the N., that of 
j Leisse on the E., and that of the Arc 
on the S. This great mass, about 13. 
! miles in length, by 5 or 6 in breadth, 
I presents on every side bold peaks, 
and faces of rock, while it everywhere 
rises above the limit of perpetual 
snow, save in the depression traversed 
by the mule path over the Col de la 
Vanoise (see next Rte.) from the 
I Doron to the Leisse valley. N. of 
that depression rises the highest peak 
of the group, the Grande Casse (3,861 
1 m., 12,668 ft.), connected by a jagged 
: ridge with the graceful Grande Motte 
(3,663 m., 12,018 ft.) on the E. 5 
while on the W. the deeply-cut gap 
of the Col de la Grande Casse sepa- 
rates the monarch from a group of 
I rocky needles, the best known of 
which is the Pointe de la Gliere 
j (3,386 m., 11,109 ft.) But far more 
j important, so far as size and extent 
j are concerned, is the vast undulating 
I glacier-plateau S. of the Col de la 
: Vanoise, which is known generally as 
the Glaciers de la Vanoise. Its cul- 
minating point is the Dent Parrachee 
(3,712 m., 12,179 ft. )j at its S. ex- 
tremity, which is there balanced by 
the Roche Chevriere, 3,282 m. , 10,768 
ft. (for both peaks, see last Rte. ) 
Nearly in the centre is a huge snow- 
; covered backbone, running N. and 
j S., and rising to a height of 3,619 
; m. (11,874 ft.), in the Dome de VAr- 
fient, though the lower Dome de 
Chasseforet, slightly to the N. E. , 
; is far better known. This great 
I glacier mass sends down many arms 
I on all sides, so that it is easily 
I gained by many routes, while its pro- 
j jecting spurs appear, when seen from 
I the valleys beneath them, to be con- 
I spicuous peaks. 

Besides the gorges of Ballandaz 
j (mentioned above), the chief excur- 
i sions from Pralognan are to the 

R 



GRAIAN ALPS. § 12. GRANDE CASSE DISTRICT 



Fraiche waterfall, reached in 25 min. 
through the beautiful forest of Creuset, 
and strolls up towards the Col de la 
Vanoise (the Gliere chalets or those 
of Mont Bochor are reached by 
pleasant walks), or the Col de 
Chaviere. The finest among the 
lower view-points near Pralognan are 
the summits in the range on the W. 
of the village. The Petit Mont Blanc 
(2,685 m., 8,809 ft.) is accessible in 
3f hrs. either on mule back from the 
depression to its S., or by pedestrians 
from that on its N. ; from the latter 
Col the higher Rocker de Plassas 
(2,865 m., 9,400 ft.) maybe climbed 
in 4 hrs. from Pralognan. Farther 
to the N. in the same range are the 
Dent Portettaz, 2,634 m., 8,642 ft. 
(4 hrs.), and the Rocker de Villeneuve \ 
(2J hrs. ) Those who wish to obtain 
a nearer view of the immense Vanoise 
ice-fields should go in 3 hrs. to the 
Col de la Vanoise, and thence, in 
2J hrs. more, without any difficulty, 
ascend the snow-clad Point e de la 
Rechasse (3,223 m., 10,575 ft.), at 
their N. end : even finer is the view 
from the rather higher and more 
distant Pointe du Dard (3,266 m., 
10,716 ft.) But incomparably the 
best point whence to study these 
great ice-fields, as well as a most 
extensive and magnificent Alpine 
panorama, is the Dome de Chasse- 
for^t (3,597 m., 11,802 ft.), which 
rises in their midst. It is best 
attained through the Nants glen, 
opening into the Doron valley at the 
Prionx chalets, I hr. from Pralognan 
oa the Col de Chaviere track ; there 
is a rebuilt Club hut f hr. above the 
Nants chalets, but it is not really 
necessary, as the edge of the ice can 
be gained in 4§ hrs. from Pralognan, 
and thence it is only \\ hr. or less 
over easy snow fields to the Dome, 
which in many respects, minus, how- 
ever, the precipice on the Italian side, 
resembles the Cima di Jazzi, near 
Zermatt. It is easy to descend in 
2-3 hrs. by the great glacier to the 
Col de la Vanoise path past the Dard 
and the Rechasse, or to Entre Deux 



Eaux by the Pelvoz glacier, or to 
Termignon by that of Arpont. 

The climber may be tempted by the 
rocky needle of the Poiiite de la Gliere ; 
3,386 m., 11,109 ft- (Si ni "S. by way 
of the Col de la Vanoise track), or by 
the Grand Bee de Pralognan (3,420m., 
11,221 ft.), the ascent of which is 
hard from this side, being effected by 
a rocky rib running down towards 
the Pointe de la Vuzelle, though it is 
perfectly simple and easily made in 
4J hrs. from the hamlet of Le Bois, in 
the Premou glen. The snowy E. 
point of the Polset (3,430 m., 11,254 
ft. ) is 6J hrs. distant from Pralognan, 
and is best taken on the way to 
Modane (see Rte. F). But no active 
mountaineer who visits Pralognan will 
be satisfied with his sojourn unless he 
has made the ascent of the monarch of 
the group, the Grande Casse (3,861 
m., 1 2,668ft.), first conquered by Mr. 
W. Mathews in i860. The route 
then taken from the Col de la Vanoise 
(3 hrs. distant) is still the best and 
shortest, but a good walker need not 
make use of the Vanoise Club hut, 
a few minutes W. of the Col. The 
foot of the glacier flowing down from 
between the two summits in a S.W. 
direction is gained without trouble, 
and is mounted till the base of the 
great wall, which is simply the upper 
portion of the glacier, is attained. 
It is generally necessary to cut many 
steps up this, but by taking to the 
rocks on the left hand this labDur 
may be avoided. Above, it is easy 
to bear right to the lower summit 
(3,806 m., 12,487 ft.), the higher 
lying to the left, and being approached 
by a narrow ridge, which is sometimes 
troublesome when loaded with snow. 
The summit is a snowy point, and 
may be reached in 4-5 hrs. from the 
Col under ordinary circumstances. 
The magnificent view takes in every- 
thing between Monte Rosa and the 
great Dauphine peaks. It is a pleasant 
expedition to climb the peak on the 
way over the Col from Pralognan to 
Entre Deux Eaux. The Grande 
I Casse has also been attained from the 



ROUTE I. PRALOGNAN TO TERMIGNON 



243 



Col of that name on its N.W. in 
4 hrs. by rotten rocks, and a very 
steep ice and snow slope, as well as 
from the S. E. , the latter route being 
only possible when there is no snow 
on the rocks, while it is much exposed 
throughout to falling stones. 

A glance at the map will show that 
between Pralognan and the head of 
the Isere valley there are the Leisse 
and Premou glens, so that a traveller 
bound from Pralognan to Tignes or 
Val dTsere must cross two passes, the 
day being rather a long and laborious 
one— either the Cols de la Grande 
Casse and du Palet, or the Cols de la 
Vanoise and de la Leisse. By far 
the best route for a mountaineer who 
can spare two days is to climb the 
Grande Casse on the way over the 
Col de la Vanoise to Entre Deux 
Eaux, and next day to take the 
Grande Motte on his way over the 
Col de la Leisse (Rte. K) to Tignes 
or Val dTsere. 



Route I. 

PRALOGNAN TO TERMIGNON BY THE 
COL DE LA VANOISE. 

This is a very interesting route, 
leading through the centre of the 
Tarentaise Alps, while there is a good 
mule path (becoming, indeed, a char 
road at its further end) all the way 
( 8 hrs. ) In fine weather a guide is not 
needed, though near the summit of the 
pass the path is not clearly marked. 

The mule path begins to climb by 
zigzags at once after quitting Pra- 
lognan, and passes through a noble 
forest before crossing to the left bank 
of the torrent in order to gain the 
Gliere chalets (ij- hr. ) The rare 
D racocephalum Ruyschiana has been 
found on the way up from Pra- 
lognan. Above the chalets the 
scenery becomes wilder and more 
imposing, and the steep Aiguille de 



la Vanoise (2,812 m. , 9,226 ft.) is 
seen in the direction of the pass. 
The regular track, marked by poles, 
traverses a marshy plain, on the N. 
side of the Aiguille, and then skirts 
along the Lac Long before gaining 
the summit of the pass, 2,527 m., 
8,291 ft. (3 hrs. from Pralognan.) 
But it is also possible to pass on its 
S. side, and this is the shortest way 
(2§ hrs.) from Pralognan to the Va- 
noise Club hut (2,486 m., 8,157 ft. — 
a small Cantine was opened here in 
^97 x >, i nr - S.W. of the main track. 

[Hence the Col de la Grande Casse 
(3,100 m., 10,171 ft.), a deep cleft 
at the N.W. foot of the Grande 
Casse, can be reached in 2 \ hrs. by 
the easy Grande Casse glacier ; if 

I coming from Pralognan it is not ne- 
cessary to go quite to the top of the 
Col de la Vanoise. The descent on 

I the other side over the Lepena glacier 
is exposed to avalanches from the 
Grande Casse, so that it is best to 
keep well out into the glacier, itself 
merely a narrow shelf. The Rosolin 
glacier is then descended, the ice being 

{ cleared on its left bank in about I hr. 
from the Col. Thence it is 2J-3 hrs. 
down to Le Bois, in the Premou 
valley, or 2\ hrs. to the Col du Palet, 
if bound to Tignes.] 

The way from the Col de la Vanoise 
to Entre Deux Eaux lies for a long 
distance in a S.E. direction along a 
broad level trench which seems to 
have been cut through the steep and 
rugged peaks on either side. Several 
small tarns are passed on this plateau, 
the passage of which in bad weather 
is much feared by the natives, on 
account of the furious blasts (hence 
called ( la Vanoise ' ) which sweep it 
when the wind sets from the N.W. 
In about 1 hr. from the Col the 
path, which is throughout marked by 
poles, reaches the verge of a steep 
descent, overlooking the junction of 
the stream from the Col with the 
Leisse. 

[Here, or better some way before, a 
party bound direct for the Col de la 
Leisse should leave the path in order 
R 2 



244 GRAIAN ALPS. § 12. GRANDE CASSE DISTRICT 



to traverse by great stony slopes 
round the foot of the Grande Casse to 
the Leisse glen, gained near a green 
hillock in about 1 hr."j 

The path winds steeply down in a 
series of stony zigzags, keeping on the 
right bank of the torrent, which falls 
over the rocks in cascades. It takes 
J hr. to reach the bridge over the 
Leisse, and a little way beyond are 
the chalets of Entre Deux Eaux, 
2,161 m., 7,090 ft. (if hr. from the 
Col.) Rather above the chalets on 
the path is a little mountain inn, 
sometimes closed, but when open 
affording very convenient night quar- 
ters. 

£For the routes hence to Tignes, 
Val d'Isere, Bessans, and Bonneval, 
through the Leisse and Rocheure 
valleys, and for the ascent of the peaks 
therein, see next Rte.J 

From Entre Deux Eaux the Leisse 
torrent pursues a nearly straight 
course to Termignon, where it falls 
into the Arc, and the natural direction 
of the path would be along either 
bank of the stream. It is possible to 
make a way along the pastures above 
the precipices which wall in that 
stream on the W., but this is a great 
detour, while the stream itself flows 
through a narrow, and practically 
impassable, defile. Hence the track 
from Entre Deux Eaux, after crossing 
the torrent from the Rocheure valley, 
mounts by some zigzags to a remark- 
able plateau ( 1 hr. ) This trough-like 
depression is parallel to the Leisse 
gorge, from which it is separated by 
a rocky ridge, and though less elevated 
than that on the Col de la Vanoise 
is nearly as long. It is along this 
plateau that the mule path is carried. 
To the left on a rock is the chapel of 
St. Bartholomew, beyond which the 
plateau (called the Plan du Lac, from 
several tarns) continues, at first 
nearly level, then descending slightly, 
till at its S. end a steep descent leads 
down the bare mountain-side to the 
chalets of Chavieres. 

£A steep foot path winds hence 
round the steep mountain-side in a 



S.E. direction, and descends direct 
to Lanslebourg ; but, though shorter in 
point of distance, there is said to be 
no saving in time. 3 

The scenery during the descent 
from Chavieres to Termignon is very 
singular and striking. Immediately 
below the chalets the gorge of Com- 
barenel descends very steeply. The 
path is carried down above the right 
side of this gorge, in long zigzags 
through a forest of fir and pine, 
dimly lighted, even at midday, amid 
the rocks that enclose it. A peculi- 
arity of the rock in this neighbour- 
hood is to form vertical columns or 
obelisks, which stand out abruptly 
from the mountain slope. Several of 
these are seen near Chavieres, but 
the most remarkable (called Rocs du 
Pelvaux) are close to the road on the 
descent through the forest. Through- 
out the descent the rocks which rise 
on either side of the gorge present 
bold and fantastic forms, and a fine 
background gradually opens as the 
path approaches the level of the 
Leisse, reached after passing the 
hamlet of Villard (here begins the 
char road), and descending a final 
stony slope. The great gorge through 
which that stream descends from 
Entre Deux Eaux here comes well 
into view, while on the opposite side 
of the valley another torrent, the 
Grand Puy, issuing from the Combe 
cPEnfer, forms a remarkable series of 
cascades. A short walk along the 
nearly level valley (a short cut on the 
left leads to the high road above the 
village) brings the traveller to the 
large village of Termignon (3J hrs. 
from Entre Deux Eaux). Termignon 
is on the Mont Cenis road, 5 m. 
below Lanslebourg (§ 7. Rte. B). 



ROUTE K. ENTRE DEUX EAUX TO TIGNES 



Route K. 

ENTRE DEUX EAUX TO TIGNES, VAL 
D'ISERE, BESSANS, OR BONNEVAL. 

The chalets of Entre Deux Eaux, 
mentioned in the last Rte., stand at 
the W. foot of a considerable moun- 
tain ridge, which rises at its E. end 
in its highest point, the Pointe de la 
Sana (3,450 m., 1 1,319 ft. ), just on 
the watershed between the Arc and 
the Isere. This ridge separates the 
upper valley of the Leisse, on the N. , 
from the valley of Rocheure, on the 
S. , the latter being the most important 
affluent of the former. Through the 
former valley the Col de la Leisse 
leads in 6 hrs. to Tignes, and it is 
easy from the pass to gain Val dTsere 
by bearing to the E. The Rocheure 
valley gives access to the Col de la 
Rocheure, or Quecees de lignes, by 
which Val dTsere is gained in 6 hrs. 
from Entre Deux Eaux, while by 
bearing to the E. from the head of 
the glen it is easy to reach Bessans or 
Bonne val. 

1. By the Col de la Leisse. — After 
retracing his steps along the path to 
the Col de la Vanoise from Entre Deux 
Eaux to the bridge over the Leisse, 
the traveller turns N. E. along the left 
bank of that stream, and enters the 
Vallon de la Leisse, one of the wildest 
in the Alps. The ground is rough, but 
there is no other difficulty in advancing. 
Along the floor of the valley itself, 
and the slopes on the N. side, little 
is seen but the traces of ruin and 
desolation— everywhere broken frag- 
ments, from the size of fine gravel to 
that of huge blocks ; and even the 
snow which lies in hollows, and in 
several places bridges over the stream, 
is soon discoloured by the new rub- 
bish that is constantly discharged 
from the heights above. Although 
everything looks bare and inanimate 
there is more vegetation, especially 
on the S. slope, than might at first 
sight be expected, and the botanist 



may detect several scarce plants grow- 
ing in the midst of the debris, amongst 
which A lopecurus Gerardi is abundant. 
One object alone presents an agree- 
able contrast to the dreary aspect of 
the glen. This is the peak of the 
Grande Motte {3,663 m., 12,018 ft.), 
which rises in a beautiful snow pyra- 
mid S.W. of the Col. 

£This summit, which is very easy 
of access, and commands a superb 
view, was first reached in 1864 ky 
Messrs. Blanford, Cuthbert, and 
Rowsell. If coming from Entre 
Deux Eaux it is not necessary to go 
to the top of the Col, as it is easy to 
reach the glacier on the W. direct by 
a wall of rocks. 2^ hrs. are required 
for the ascent from near the Col, 
whether by the E. or N. ridge at the 
end, and there is a direct descent to 
the N. by the Grande Motte glacier 
to the Lac de Tignes. If the snow is 
likely to be in a bad state, it is best 
to mount from the Leisse valley due 
N. by the easy, though rather steep, 
rocks of the S. buttress to a great 
cairn on the S.W. summit (3,560 m., 
11,680 ft.), whence 20 min. up easy 
snow slopes lead to the top in about 
3-4 hrs. from the level of the glen. 

Near the head of the valley, and 
before reaching the pass, there is no 
difficulty in crossing the ridge S. of 
the Rochers de Genepy (3,157 m., 
10,358 ft. ), easily reached hence, to the 
Charvet glen, and so descending to Val 
dTsere in 2 hrs. But a pleasanter way 
of gaining that village (2 hrs.) is to 
cross from the other side of the Col 
de la Leisse by the Col de Fresse 
(2,589 m. , 8,494 an d pass over 
the splendid Thouviere pastures. 3 

A final steepish ascent from the 
lower valley over stones leads to the 
Col de la Leisse (2,780 m., 9,121 ft.), 
3|-hrs. from Entre Deux Eaux, marked 
by a pole (some travellers have found 
an iron cross fixed to the summit of a 
boss of rock). 

A short descent leads down to a 
little plateau, whence the traveller, 
leaving on the right the way to the Col 
i de Fresse, must take care to keep to 



246 GRAIAN ALPS. § 12. GRANDE CASSE DISTRICT 



the right of the mound called Petite 
Baime, high up the slopes above the 
right bank of the E. arm of the Paquier 
stream, descending from the Col, as 
the direct way along the W. arm 
leads to a vertical precipice, over 
which the torrent leaps in a fine 
waterfall. A bad stony path brings 
the traveller to the green meadows at 
the S. end of the beautiful Lake of 
Tignes. A track along either shore 
to its N. end is succeeded by a rough, 
stony mule path, by which Tignes is 
reached in 2^ hrs. or less from the 
Col. 

2. By the Col de la Kochenre. — 

From Entre Deux Eaux the mule 
path winds round the hill-side towards 
the E., in order to enter the rich pas- 
tare valley of Rocheure, and passes 
(gradually becoming a foot path) the 
chapel of St. Jacques and the Fon- 
taine Gaillarde, some way above 
which the ascent becomes steeper. 
The Col itself (2,940 m., 9,646 ft.) 
is a debris-covered ridge slightly to 
the N.E., and is attained in 3 J hrs. 
from Entre Deux Eaux. It is often 
traversed by the country people, as it 
is easier than the Col de la Leisse, 
but is scarcely known to travellers as 
yet. 

[Before reaching the pass a party 
wishing to make the ascent of the 
Pointe de la Sana (3.450 m., 
1 1 , 3 1 9 ft. ), on the W. , should bear up 
to the glacier on its S. E. , whence the 
summit is easily gained by the E. 
ridge in 4J hrs. from Entre Deux 
Eaux ; probably \\ hr. extra would 
suffice for this detour for a party 
crossing the pass. There is, perhaps, 
no more advantageous point whence 
to study the whole of the Western 
Graians, and much else besides. 

A party bound from the head of 
the Rocheure glen to Bessans or 
Bonneval has a choice between 
various routes. By keeping S.E. 
during the last ascent to the Col, it is 
easy to cross the Col du Pisset, S.E. 
of the Pointe du Pisset, whence a 
traverse across the Fours glacier leads 
to the Col des Roches and so to Bonne- 



val direct in little over 3 hrs. More 
to the S. the Col de Mean Martin, 
N., and the Col de la Roche Blanche, 
S. of the Aiguille de Mean Martin 
(3,288 m., 10,788 ft.), lead over 
without difficulty to the head of ' Le 
Vallon,' where these routes are joined 
by the way over the Col de Vefrette, 
connecting the Vefrette with the 
Mean Martin glacier, either Bessans 
or Bonneval being reached in under 
4 hrs. by any of these routes. From 
the two former passes the Aiguille de 
Mean Martin is accessible in \ hr. , or 
less, while from the Col de Vefrette 
the highest and westernmost of the 
three Point es du C hate lard ( 3 , 503 m . , 
11,493 ft.) is attained in I-J hr. by 
passing over the two lower summits, 
from the central one of which Bessans 
is well seen. J 

A short glacier on the N. side of 
the pass is crossed, and then it is best 
not to follow the path along the left 
bank of the Charvet torrent marked 
on the French map, but to bear by a 
path high up to the right, only cross- 
ing the stream lower down near its 
junction with a western tributary. 
A gentle descent by a good mule path 
then leads down the Calabourdane 
glen, passing opposite Le Manchet, 
and so enables the traveller to reach 
Val dTsere in 2§ hrs. or less from 
the Col. 



Route L. 

TIGNES TO MOUTIERS OR BOURG ST. 
MAURICE BY THE COL DU PALET. 
ASCENT OF THE MONT POURRI. 

In its downward course from 
Tignes to Moutiers the Isere makes 
a long detour to the N., flowing 
round the N. base of the great ridge, 
of which the highest summit is the 
Mont Pourri. A more direct course 
from Tignes to the Isere valley be- 
tween Moutiers and Bourg St. 



ROUTE L. TIGNES TO MOUTIERS 



247 



Maurice lies over the Col du Palet , a 
comparatively low and easy pass, 
whence the descent may be made 
either W. through the Val de Premou 
to Champagny and Moutiers, or 
N.N.W. to the Isere valley between 
Bourg St. Maurice and Aime. 

A brawling stream descending 
N.E. to Tignes flows from the Lac 
de Tignes (2,088 m., 6,851 ft.), a 
rather large Alpine lake (excellent 
trout), about 1 m. in circumference, 
lying in a mountain hollow in a very 
beautiful position, at the foot of the 
Grande Motte, which, like the Sas- 
siere opposite, is mirrored in its calm 
waters. The chalets near its N. end 
may be reached by a rather stony 
mule path in about \\ hr. from 
Tignes. The path to the Col du 
Palet (2,658m., 8,721 ft.) mounts 
first S., then due W., from the lake, 
and leads without difficulty up stony 
grass slopes in about i\ hr. to the 
top. 

[S. of a grand pyramid of rock 
rising S. of the Col Mr. Nichols in 
1865 crossed a small glacier, and 
made a new and direct pass, the Col 
de Plant rin, to the Premou glen. 3 

The Col du Palet leads to a small 
undulating plateau, which descends 
on the one hand S.W. to the Val de 
Premou, and on the other N.W. to 
the Val Peisey, so that when clouds 
lie low it is not easy to preserve the 
right direction. 

1. To reach Moatiers it is neces- 
sary to bear S.W., high above the 
little Lac de Gratelo, and to ascend 
for a few minutes to the Croix des 
Fretes (2,726 m., 8,944 ft.), which is 
the culminating point of the pass to 
the Premou glen. Gently inclined 
and stony grass slopes on the N. 
side of that glen are succeeded by 
some mountain tarns and steeper grass 
slopes, beyond which the considerable 
Lac de la Plagne is seen below, near 
the chalets of that name. 

[To the S.E. is the route to the 
Col de la Grande Casse, Rte. I.] 

Further on the path descends by 
steep zigzags, and at the hamlet of 



Laisonnay (where falls in the track 
from the Col du Plan Sery, leading 
over in hrs. from the Plagne lake, 
in the Peisey glen) crosses to the left 
bank, but recrosses before reaching 
the village of Le Bois or Champagny - 
le-Haut (2 J hrs. from the Col). On 
the way down, as well as from this 
village, very fine views of the Grande 
Casse and of the Grande Motte are 
gained. 

[To the S. of this village rises the 
Grand Bee de Pralognan (3,420 m., 
11,221 ft.), which may be attained 
thence in 4f hrs. without any diffi- 
culty by way of the Becca Motta 
glacier. To the N. is the So?nmet de 
Bellecote (3,421 m. , 11,224 ft- )> which 
commands an even finer view ; it may 
be climbed in 4 J- 5 hrs. by way of 
the path towards the Col de Frette 
(2,504 m., 8,216 ft. )— 5 hrs. by many 
zigzags on both sides to the village of 
Peisey — and the Thiaupe glacier. 
Direct but steep and wearisome de- 
scents may be effected to the N. and 
to the E.J 

From Le Bois a char road, becom- 
ing more and more picturesque, leads 
down in f hr. (3 J m. ) through a gorge 
to the considerable village of Cham- 
pagny -le-Bas, built on a terrace above 
the confluence of the Premou torrent 
with the Doron. It lies in the midst 
of very agreeable scenery, while the 
women here have preserved the 
national costume better than in most 
parts of the Tarentaise. [Hence 
there is a mule track over to Macot, 
Rte. A.J 

[On the way the hamlet of Planay 
is passed, whence a delightful walk 
through the magnificent Foret Noire 
round the W. base of the Grand Bee 
leads the traveller to the high road to 
Pralognan, just above the great zig- 
zags ; 2>h h rs - su ffi ce from Le Bois to 
Pralognan by this charming route.] 

} hr. (3 m. ) beyond Champagny 
by a steep road is the large village of 
Bozel (on the way from Moutiers to 
Pralognan), and thence 8 m. more 
along the high road described in Rte. 
H bring the traveller to Moutiers. 



248 GRAIAN ALPS. § 12. GRANDE CASSE DISTRICT 



2. If bound for the Val de Peisey 

the traveller commences the descent 
at once from the Col du Palet, turn- 
ing due N. , and passing along the W. 
shore of the Lac de Gratelo. In rather 
more than 1 hr. he reaches the chalets 
of Flagtie, N. of the pretty lake of 
that name. 

[On the way the Palet track is 
joined by that from the Col de la 
Tourne (2,460 m., 8,071 ft.), which 
having mounted N.W. from the Lac 
deTignes descends to Plagne (j| hrs. 
from Tignes) through a striking and 
very narrow corridor or gorge, which 
expands into a great hollow shut in 
by a series of bold rock needles of a 
reddish hue. At the Plagne huts 
falls in the way from Tignes past the 
Boisses or Marais chalets over the 
Col de la Sachette (2,729 m. , 8,954 ft. ) 
— 4 hrs. from Tignes to the Plagne 
huts. J hr. below them, at the edge 
of a steep descent, it is possible to 
climb up to the X. towards a fine 
"waterfall, and then to traverse many 
stony slopes to the Sevoliere chalets, 
I-J hr., and thence in J hr. to cross a 
grassy shoulder to those of Entre 
Deux Nants, both mentioned below 
in connection with the Mont Pourri. 3 
The head of the Val de Peisey is 
wild and solitary, enclosed between 
the lofty range of the Mont Pourri on 
the N.j and that on the S., of which 
the highest summit is the glacier-clad 
Sommet de Bellecote (see under 1). 
Fine views are gained of the Grande 
Motte, and of the Mont Pourri high up 
on the right, above precipices seamed 
by many pretty waterfalls. About 
1 hr. further (2J hrs. from the Col) 
the traveller reaches the now aban- 
doned buildings connected with the 
mines of Peisey, which, as at the 
neighbouring mines of Macot, contain 
an argentiferous sulphide of lead.. 
They are beautifully situated in a 
fertile basin. The mule track de- 
scends along the right bank to Le 
Moulin (opposite the glen leading up 
to the Col de Frette : see under 1), 
where a char road commences. A 
few minutes beyond (J hr. from the 



mines) is the village of Peisey, above 
the stream, and in less than I hr. 
more (4 m. ) the traveller reaches the 
village of Landry. A road leads 
across the Isere to the high road, 
about half-way between Aime and 
Bourg St. Maurice, but there is a 
shorter one along the left bank of the 
Isere, by which Bourg St. Maurice 
is gained in \\ hr. (5 m. ) from 

I Landry. 

Ascent of the Mont Pourri. — The 

; Mont Pourri (3,788 m., 12,428 ft.), 
formerly called the Chaffe Quoirre and 
the Mont Thtiria, is the noble peak 
which is so conspicuous from the 

: W. side of the Little St. Bernard, 
from the Col du Bonhomme, and 
throughout a considerable portion of 
the upper valley of the Isere. Rising 
boldly, as it does, to a height of 9,000 

' to 10,000 ft. above the Isere, there 
are few peaks in the Alps which pre- 
sent a more imposing aspect. It is 
formed of a ridge, 8 to 10 m. long, 
and rising between the Isere and the 
Yal de Peisey, which drain its E. 
and W, flanks respectively. It con- 

; sists of a central and highest peak, 
flanked en the N. by the summit now 
known as the Mont Thuria (3,615 m. , 
11,861 ft.), and on the S. by the 
Dome de la Sache (3,611 m., 11,848 
ft. ) The latter summit was reached 
in 1 86 1 by Messrs. W. Mathews and 
Jacomb, but the highest peak rises 
about 2 m. to the N.N.W., and the 
ridge between the two was not tra- 
versed till 1880 by M. Rochat. (For 
this route see Rte. B. under Tignes, 
and for the history of the Pourri 
generally consult M. Paillon's mono- 

! graph in vol. i. of the ' Revue 

: Alpine.*) At the suggestion of Mr. 

; Mathews, one of his guides, Michel 

! Croz, of Chamonix, attempted the 
ascent, and on Oct. 4, 1861, suc- 
ceeded in making the first ascent 
of the peak, quite alone. In 1862 
Messrs. Mathews and Bonney effected 
the second ascent by the same route. 
The party started from the chalets of 

I Entre Deux Nants (2^ hrs. above the 

I village of Peisey), and in 2 hrs. 



ROUTE L. ASCENT OF THE MONT POURRI 249 



40 min. gained the Col dti Pourri 
(2,937 m. , 9,636 ft.), leading into the 
Thuria glen, opposite La Thuille de 
Ste. Foy. They then passed along 
the N.E. side of the ridge extending 
from the Col towards the Mont 
Thuria, keeping high up over snow 
slopes on the upper shelf of the 
TJiuria glacier, and having climbed a 
steep snow wall regained the same 
ridge at a much higher point, just at 
the N.W. foot of Mont Thuria, there 
being here two neighbouring depres- 
sions, the Col des Roches and the Col 
de Thuria. Here they overlooked 
the immense snowy amphitheatre 
formed by the Roches glacier, above 
the S.E. corner of which rises the 
highest summit of the mountain, a 
great rocky spur being thrown out 
towards the S.W. on the S. side of 
that glacier. Descending to this 
amphitheatre the party circled round 
its head, climbed by steep snow 
slopes to the crest of the upper part 
of this great S.W. spur, and so 
attained the culminating point of the 
Pourri. From the Col du Pourri 
3 his. 40 min. had been employed. 
It was ascertained that it is the 
second highest peak in the Western 
Graians, and the magnificent view of 
the Western Alps was carefully studied. 

[Returning to the Col du Pourri, 
Mr. Mathews, with J. B. Croz, 
scrambled down a steep ravine by 
the side of a series of glacier seracs, 
and bearing well to the left descended 
over the Thuria alp to the village of 
Villaroger, opposite Ste. Foy. Mr. 
Bonney, with M. Croz, descended 
from the Col to the N. by the Pisse- 
vieille glen, avoiding a range of steep 
precipices by taking a path to the left 
which wound down the steep face of 
the great buttress of the Pourri above 
Bourg St. Maurice, thus gaining that 
town direct.] 

This route up the Pourri is rather 
intricate, as the same ridge is crossed 
twice {avoid descending from the Col 
du Pourri to the lower part of the 
Thuria glacier below the seracs), but 
is not otherwise difficult. 



I A useful variation of this route was 
I made by Mr. Coolidge in 1878, and 
I this is really the quickest and best way 
1 of reaching the summit of the Pourri. 
Having gained the summit by the 
1862 route in 4 hrs. 50 min. walk- 
ing from Entre Deux Nants, Mr. 
Coolidge's party on its return, when 
half-way across the great snowy am- 
phitheatre of the Roches glacier, 
struck to the S.W. down that glacier, 
which was perfectly easy, quitted it on 
its right bank, near the figures 2, 600 m. 
on the French map (f hr. only from 
the summit), passed above the Sevo- 
liere chalets (20 min.), and in § hr. 
more regained Entre Deux Nants by 
a grassy depression to the N.E. of 
Les Lanchettes, having thus taken 
i but I hr. 50 m. walking from the top 
j to their night quarters. In 1868 Mr. 
Horace Walker from the Col de 
Thuria rounded the base of the 
Mont Thuria (first ascended in 1874 
by Miss Brevoort and Mr. Coolidge 
by way of its N.E. spur), and then 
worked along the E. slope of the 
I ridge (many rocky teeth, traversed in 
1874 by Mr. Coolidge) between the 
' Mont Thuria and the Pourri, gaining 
I the latter summit in about 2 hrs. from 
I the Col de Thuria. 

Yet a fourth main route up the 
Pourri mounts from the Plagne 
; chalets at the head of the Val de 
, Peisey (6 hrs. to the summit) by the 
I S.E. face, and crest of the great S.W. 

spur, the 1862 route being joined 
j near the summit. For the two 
I northern routes (1862 and 1868, with 
: the variation of 1878) the best night 
j quarters is now the Club hut 
j (2,650 m., 8,695 ft. ))4 nrs - above 
Peisey, and a short distance below 
the Col du Pourri on its W. slope. 
Hence three other interesting ascents 
j may be made. The Aiguille du St. 
j Esprit, 3,393 m., 11,132 ft. (at the 
! junction of the two ridges enclosing the 
Roches glacier on the N. W. and S. E. ), 
can be reached in 2 hrs. from the 
Col du Pourri by way of the W. slope 
of the ridge (shifting debris) between 
the Col and the peak. The Aiguille 



250 GRAIAN ALPS. § 12. GRANDE CASSE DISTRICT 



Rouge, 3,237 m., 10,621 ft. (whence 
there is a wonderful view of the 
Pourri), N. of that Col, can be 
reached by the debris and rocks of 
its W. slope in about 2 hrs. from the 
Club hut, but much easier is the 
ascent of the Aiguille Grive (2,735 
m. , 8,973 ft- )•> accessible in under 1 hr. 
A pleasant route from Bourg St. 
Maurice to the Club hut (4 \ hrs. ) is 
past the chalets of Tetes and Arc 
(probably identical with Mr. Bonney's 
descent in 1862), it being also pos- 
sible to join this route (not far from 
the former chalets) by mounting a 
zigzag path (faintly marked and stony) 
which starts opposite Montvalezan- 
sur-Seez, and leads up through a mag- 
nificent forest. 



SECTION 13. 

LEVANNA DISTRICT. 
{CENTRAL GRAIANS. 1.) 

This district includes the S. bit of 
the Central Graians, extending from 
the Mont Cenis Pass to the Col du 
Carro. In other words, it takes in 
the peak of the Rochemelon, and the 
ridge bounding the Maurienne or 
valley of the Arc on the S. E. , as well 
as a very considerable mass of peaks 
and ridges on the Italian, or E. , side 
of the main chain. Indeed, this last- 
named mass forms the greater part 
of the region described in this Sec- 
tion, and is known as the Valleys of 
Lanzo. N.W. of Turin is the little 
town of Lanzo, on the Stura di 
Lanzo, which is formed by the union 
of three torrents flowing eastwards 
from the main Graian chain through 
three valleys, those of Viu, Ala, and 
the Val Grande. The Valleys of 
Lanzo are enclosed by four consider- 
able ridges, two of which divide these 
glens from each other, while a third 
rises between the Viu glen and that 
of the Dora Riparia, the fourth 
similarly forming the boundary be- 



tween the Val Grande and the Oreo 
valley. Each of the three valleys 
communicates with the upper valley 
of the Arc by high snow or glacier 
passes, rarely used by the natives, 
and still more rarely by foreigners, 
although to practised mountaineers 
they offer no difficulties. A fair 
amount of information as to the 
ridges enclosing these valleys, and a 
great deal about the valleys them- 
selves, may be found in a quaint 
work entitled ' Lettres sur les Vallees 
de Lanzo,' by Louis Francesetti, 
Count of Mezzenile (Turin, 1823), 
but the more recent work of Signor 
L. Clavarino, ' Le Valli di Lanzo ' 
(Turin, 1874), contains many details 
useful to climbers. Both books 
have, however, been now superseded 
by vol. ii. Part 1 of Signori 
Martelli and Vaccarone's ' Guida 
delleAlpi Occidentali ' (Turin, 1889), 
while those who desire to make a 
minute study of the valleys should 
not omit to consult Signor Vacca- 
rone's two classical papers on the 
ridges at the head of the Val Grande, 
published in the ' Bollettino ' of the 
Italian Alpine Club for 1885 and 
1887, and those by Signor Cibrario 
on the region between the Rocheme- 
lon and the Charbonel, and on the 
Bessanese, in the same periodical for 
1893 an d 1894. Joanne, and parti- 
cularly M. Ferrand'sbook, mentioned 
in the Introduction to this Chapter, 
will also be found very useful. Bon- 
neval and Bessans on the French 
side, Balme, Ceresole, and the Club 
huts of the Italian Alpine Club, on 
the Italian side, are the best head- 
quarters for mountaineers. 

It was long thought in former days 
that the Rochemelon was the highest 
summit in the Alps, and hence 
naturally of this portion of the great 
chain. But its 3,537 m. ( 1 1,605 ft- ) * s 
surpassed by quite a number of other 
summits. The loftiest of all is the 
Pointe de Charbonel (3,760 m., 
12,336 ft. ), above Bessans, and wholly 
in France, next to which come the 
Uja di Ciamarella, 3,676 m., 



ROUTE A. BESSANS 



TO THE VIU VALLEY 



251 



12,061 ft. (wholly in Italy), the 
Albaron, 3,662 m., 12,015 ft. 
(wholly in France), the Central and 
highest point of the three-peaked 
Levanna (3,640 m., n, 943 *k)> an d 
the Bessanese (3,632 m., 11,917 ft.) 
Several other mountains also exceed 
the Rochemelon in height ; but that 
summit, with the Albaron, the W. 
(and lowest) summit of the Levanna, 
and the Grande Aiguille Rousse, are 
the belvederes of the region, and easily 
accessible even by those who have no 
great experience of climbing. It may 
be pointed out as a curiosity that the 
three highest summits of the district 
crown spurs projecting from the main 
ridge, the Central peak of the Levanna 
being the loftiest point actually on the 
crest of the main chain, so that, as it 
is also the best known to students of 
Alpine literature, it may fitly give its 
name to the Section wherein it is 
described. 



Route A. 

BESSANS TO THE VIU VALLEY OR 
THE MONT CENIS BY THE RIBON 
GLEN. ASCENT OF THE ROCHE- 
MELON. 

The village of Bessans, in the upper 
Arc valley, stands at the N.W. foot 
of the Pointe de Charboiiel, the 
loftiest summit of the group to be de- 
scribed in this Section. From that 
peak a long crest runs S.E. to the 
frontier ridge, and this crest separates 
the two glens of Ribon, and of 
Averole, which join the Arc valley 
not far from Bessans. These two 
glens form the subject of this and the 
succeeding Route. Each leads into 
the Viu valley, the most southerly of 
the three Valleys of Lanzo, while the 
former also gives access to the 
plateau of the Mont Cenis, and the 
latter also communicates directly with 
the Valley of Ala. 



The Ribon glen is closed at its 
head by the great mass of the Roche- 
melon, the most celebrated of the 
historical peaks of the Alps, and it is 
necessary to cross this mass, near the 
summit, in order to reach the Viu 
valley. At first sight this seems an 
enterprise reserved only for active 
climbers, but the pilgrims' tracks 
from both the Ribon and Viu glens 
permit even inexperienced climbers 
to reach this summit, whence it is 
possible to descend by a good track 
to Susa direct, or by a rough foot 
track to the plateau of the Mont 
Cenis. In this Rte., therefore, we 
have mainly to deal with the Roche- 
melon (3,537 m., 11,605 ft -)> tn e 
most southerly of the great peaks in 
the Graian range. 

A good path mounts from Bessans 
past a chapel and around a shoulder 
to the level of the Ribon glen, reached 
on the right bank of the stream, 
which is henceforth followed through 
a treeless and desolate pasture valley, 
relieved only by the sight of the 
Rochemelon glacier descending 
steeply at its further end. Many 
groups of chalets are passed, the first 
being those of Pierre Grosse (i^hr. 
from Bessans). 

[Steep but easy broken rocks lead 
up hence on the S. in 3^ firs, to the 
Pas du Chapeau (3,230m., 10,598 ft. ), 
whence if hr. or less suffices to gain 
the Mont Cenis Hospice, From the 
pass it is a stroll of about § hr. in a 
S. direction to the Mont Lamet 
(3,478 m., 11,411 ft.), or the rather 
higher Roche Michel (3,492 m., 
11,457 ft.), ascended by Saussure 
as far back as 1787, eight weeks after 
his famous ascent of Mont Blanc. 
But an even finer view is gained from 
the Pointe de Ro?ice (3,618 m., 
11,871 ft.), totheN.W., easily reached 
by the ridge in i\ hr. from the Col, 
and commanding a most superb view. 
Easy snow fields lead from it down 
direct either to the Mont Cenis pla- 
teau or to Lanslebourg. The return 
to Bessans may be varied by pushing 
on in 1 1 hr. to the Pointe de Solliette 



252 GRAIAN ALPS. § 13. 

(3,046 m.j 9,994 ft.), which over- 
hangs the plain of Bessans, gained 
thence by a steep, rocky descent in 
3 hrs. to the N. of a hanging glacier, 
and past the Pierre Grosse huts. J 

In about i| hr. more the foot of 
the icefall of the Rochemelon glacier 
is reached. Here the traveller natu- 
rally wonders how this is to be 
climbed by pilgrims. Practised moun- 
taineers may clamber up a steep gully 
on the right bank to the edge of the 
upper level snow-field. But the 
pilgrims' route (ill-marked, except 
soon after the annual journey, when it 
was traced with ease by the present 
writer— W. A. B.C.— on Sept. 7, 1889) 
winds away by a path far to the left 
over the rocks, returning higher up 
to the right, and so enabling them to 
reach the right edge of the upper level 
snow-field above the ice-fall in if hr. 
or less from the Ribon glen. A 
trudge up and over this extensive 
snow-field (laborious only when the 
snow is soft) brings the traveller to 
the summit of the final pyramid of the 
Rochemelon (3,537 m., 11,605 ft.) in 
if hr. more, or 6 hrs. from Bessans. 

Besides the great cairn on the top 
there are also near by the ancient 
wooden chapel, full of ex-votos, &c, 
marble tablets recording the ascents 
in 1659, and later, of some princes 
of the House of Savoy, and a bronze 
bust of Victor Emmanuel II., which 
has lately replaced one in terra cotta. 

There are few points in the range cf 
the Alps, save the Monte Viso, the 
Ciamarella, and the Tour du Grand 
St. Pierre, so well placed as this to 
command a view of the undulating 
plateau between the Alps and the 
Appennines, scored by the channels of 
many rapid rivers, that makes up the 
territory of Piedmont, as well as of 
the countless peaks that close it in on 
the W. and the N. But though the 
panorama is very fine it is often con- 
cealed by clouds, which frequently 
gather early in the day round the 
summit of this advanced bastion of 
the Alps. 

It is probably due to the remark - 



LEV ANN A DISTRICT 

able history of the Rochemelon that 
the actual summit is now wholly in 
Italy, the frontier line passing N. of 
it across the great snow-field. As 
far back as the twelfth century there 
were legends of a great treasure 
hidden on this mountain by an ancient 
king, from whom it was called ' Arx 
Romulea. ' But no one was for long 
able to reach the summit, as storms 
drove back several parties, raised, it 
was alleged, by the spirit of the 
mountain. Yet a certain Bonifacius 
Rotarius of Asti, having, according to 
tradition, escaped out of the hands of 
the Mussulmen in the Holy Land, in 
consequence of a vow that in such 
case he would build a chapel on the 
highest summit of the Alps, carried 
out this vow by ascending the peak 
on Sept. 1, 1358, this being, as far 
! as is known, the very first time that 
any snowy peak of the Alps was ever 
climbed. It is said that the original 
chapel was hewn out of the rock, in a 
spot now covered by neve, and the 
existence of a recess artificially hol- 
lowed out in the rock was proved in 
the hot summer of 1820, when the 
entrance was uncovered by the melt- 
ing of the snow, and the supposed 
chapel entered by M. Francesetti. 
Rotarius' bronze triptych, representing 
the Blessed Virgin and Child, with 
St. George mounted, on one side, and 
on the other St. James, presenting a 
kneeling warrior, supposed to be 
Rotarius, is now preserved in the 
cathedral at Susa, but is carried to 
the summit annually, when mass is 
said in the chapel on August 5, the 
festival of N. D. de la Neige. Many 
pilgrims flock thither on that occasion 
from all sides, bivouacking out on 
the mountain, so as to reach the 
summit early, and it is said that dis- 
putes are not unfrequent between the 
rival Savoyard and Piedmontese men, 
who meet here. 

It should be added that the history 
of Asti about that time makes it 
more probable that the triptych was 
carried up. the Rochemelon in con- 
nection with some local troubles, 



ROUTE A. BESSANS TO THE VI U VALLEY 253 



rather than the fulfilment of a vow 
made on a Crusade. The triptych, 
the history of which between 1358 
and 1659 (when Charles Emmanuel II. 
of Savoy made the ascent, as is re- 
corded on a white marble tablet still 
on the summit) is unknown, bears the 
following inscription : i Hie me ap- 
portavit Bonefacius Rotarius Astensis 
in honorem D. N. J. C. et Beatae 
Virginis. Anno Domini MCCCLVIII, 
die 1 Septembris.' 

From the foot of the final pyramid 
a traveller may, by bearing to the 
S.W., cross the Col della Novalesa 
(3,209 m., 10,529 ft.) to the Budin 
huts. Hence there is an easy path 
down to Novalesa, near the Mont 
Cenis road, above Susa, but, if it be 
desired to gain the Hospice on the 
Mont Cenis, a rough route, across 
steep slopes, intersected by many 
ravines, must be followed to the N. W. 
to the Tour huts (here a direct 
route from the Rochemelon glacier 
falls in) and those of Lamet, whence 
the path improves ; but 4 firs, at 
least, if not more, are required from 
the summit to the Hospice by this 
route, against which travellers are 
strongly warned. This W. face of 
the peak is steep, so that no snow 
can rest on it in summer. So is the 
S. slope, down which there is a fair 
track to Susa, which is the easiest 
way up the mountain. This track 
leads down steep slopes of debris, 
past the Crocetta di Ferro y to the 
Cct d'Asli, 2,834 m., 9,298 ft. (1 hr. 
from the summit), a stone chapel (in 
which mass is said when bad weather 
prevents the ascent to the summit), 
surrounded by a number of huts (one 
fitted up for travellers by the Italian 
Alpine Club) for the accommodation 
of the pilgrims the night before their 
annual ascent. (By following a well- 
marked track hence to the E. along 
the mountain-side the Col della Croce 
di Ferro, 2,553m., 8,376 ft., may be 
gained in 3 hrs. , and Usseglio, in the 
Viii valley, in 3 hrs. more past the 
Malciaussia chalets. ) Less than 3 hrs. 
suffice for the descent from the Ca 



d'Asti over steep pastures past the 
chalets of Trucco and the village of 
Mompantero to Susa, but, as the slopes 
are very bare, and exposed to the S., 
travellers should recollect that this 
part of the mountain is very hot, 
particularly in the afternoon. 

Hitherto we have been considering 
the N., W., and S. slopes of the 
Rochemelon. But for a party bound 
to the Valley of Viu the E. slopes are 
far more important. A mountaineer 
will be tempted by the look of the 
slightly higher Pic du Ribon ( 3, 543 m. , 
11,625 ft.) to the N., easily gained 
by snow slopes in 1 \ hr. or less from 
the Rochemelon, and commanding an 
admirable view, lacking, however, 
the outlook over the Piedmontese 
plains obtained from the more famous 
summit. From the Pic there is no 
difficulty in following the N. ridge for 
a short distance, and then descending 
on the E. across, and later on the left 
side of a great snow couloir to the 
Derriere le Clapier glacier (-J-J hr. ), 
at the head of the Lombarde branch 
of the Averole glen ; hence it is easy 
to bear N. E. across this glacier to the 
Col de l'Autaret (Rte. B), or to go 
down the Averole glen in 4 hrs. to 
Bessans. An even easier way is to 
follow the N. ridge from the Pic to 
the broad depression (now called the 
Bocchetta de P Arse lie) marked 3,361 
m. (11,027 ft.) on the French map, 
whence easy slopes lead down to 
either the Ribon or Averole glens. 

But the most direct pass from 
the Rochemelon glacier to the Viii 
valley is the Col de la Rochemelon, a 
little N. of the peak, at the point 
marked 3,275 m. (10,745 ft-) on tne 
Italian map. This is the pilgrims' 
pass, and there is no difficulty in the 
descent to the head of the Viu valley, 
where the track from the Col de 
l'Autaret (Rte. B) is joined, and fol- 
lowed past the chalets of Malciaussia 
to Usseglio (4 hrs. from the pass). 



254 > GRAIAN ALPS. § 13. LEVANNA DISTRICT 



Route B. 

BESSANS TO USSEGLIO AND LANZO 
BY THE COL DE L'AUTARET. 

In the last Rte. we described what 
may be called the mountaineer's way 
from Bessans to the Yiii valley, but 
the more usual route, known perhaps 
since Roman times, from one valley 
to the other is the track across the 
Col deV Autaret, reached from Bessans 
through the Averole glen. The path 
leaves the road to Bonneval a little 
way out of Bessans, at the chapel of 
St. Etienne, and passing along the 
edge of the forest enters the Averole 
glen on crossing to the hamlet of La 
Goulaz, on the right bank of the 
Averole torrent (J hr.) That bank 
is then followed past Vincendieres to 
the last winter hamlet in the valley, 
that of Averole, 2,035 m., 6,677 ft. 
(1 hr.), which is only 36 ft. lower 
than the highest village in France 
(l'Ecot, near Bonneval). It is here 
necessary to quit the main track 
(which mounts S.E. towards the Col 
d/Arnas, Rte. E. below), and to cross 
the stream to its left bank, in-order 
to mount S. through the Combe de la 
Lombarde, the true continuation of 
the Averole glen. There is a choice 
here between a higher track (past the 
oratory of St. Antoine) and a lower 
track past two huts, but the ascent 
up the left side of the wild and 
desolate glen offers no difficulties. 
Near its termination (2J hrs.) the 
path (soon ceasing to be passable for 
mules) crosses to the right bank of 
the torrent and mounts by zigzags 
above the right bank of the Derriere 
le Clapier glacier (which is perfectly 
easy) to the Col de l'Autaret, 3,070 
m., 10,073 ft. (f hr.), gained in 4J-5 
hrs. from Bessans. Here there are 
3 cairns, a cross, and a flagstaff, 
showing that it is frequented by the 
country people, though very rarely 
traversed by strangers. The chief 
feature in the view is the Charbonel, 



and the chain running thence in a 
S.E. direction, but on the way up 
Mont Blanc, the Bessanese, and the 
Albaron are visible at different points. 
The view from the pass may be ex- 
tended by mounting in less than an 
hour to the Punta Autaret (3,338 m., 
10,952 ft.), on the N.E., whence it is 
possible to follow the ridge in an E. 
direction to the higher Punta Valletta 
(3,378 m., 11,083 ft-)> fr° m which it 
is easy either to pass the ridge on the 
N.E. to the Pera Ciaval Club hut 
(Rte. D) or to ascend the Croce Rossa 
(see also Rte. D. A. 1. b, and E. 1). 

Some writers have maintained that 
it was by this pass that Hannibal 
crossed the Alps, but it is more certain 
(though not proved) that it was known 
and used in Roman times, as inscrip- 
tions of that date have been found at 
different times on the Italian side, as 
well as a stone altar, dedicated to 
Hercules, and now preserved in the 
parish church at Usseglio. It is most 
probable, however, that these are 
really connected with the iron mines 
in the Bellacomba (Rte. D. A. 1). 

Just below the Col is a small lake, 
often frozen till late in the summer, on 
the uppermost shelf of the glen, and 
after passing a steep rock the mule 
path reappears. (There are said to 
be in this neighbourhood traces, of the 
old paved track by which in former 
days letters were conveyed by mounted 
messengers from Piedmont to Savoy. ) 
A fine cascade is passed on the right, 
and many steep pastures descended be- 
fore the traveller reaches (if hr. from 
the pass) the level of the Viu valley, 
where falls in the route from the Col de 
la Rochemelon (see last Rte.) Soon 
the green pasture basin of Malciaussia 
(1,789m., 5,870 ft.), with many huts, 
is attained. It is shut in on all sides 
by precipitous rock walls, the 
Rochemelon being visible on the W. 
In this plain there are fields of rye, 
which in some years ripen fully at 
this great height, after the seed has 
remained for 14 months in the ground. 
The path keeps throughout on the 
left bank of the Stura di Viu, which 



ROUTE B. BESSANS TO USSEGLIO AND LANZO 255 



makes a fine waterfall (heard, but not 
visible from the path) before the 
traveller gains the hamlet of Margone, 
and the opening of the Bellacomba 
glen is passed on the left just before 
reaching the considerable plain in 
which are scattered the various 
hamlets of the commune of Usseglio 
(2 hrs. from Malciaussia). The inn 
is at the chief hamlet, that of Corte- 
viccio ( 1 , 265 m. , 4, 1 50 ft. ) A short 
distance off is the parish church, with 
the stone altar already mentioned, 
and a short way beyond is a large low 
building, called the Fabbrica, formerly 
used for the preparation of the cobalt 
obtained from mines in some of the 
neighbouring glens. Unfortunately 
the inhabitants have recklessly de- j 
stroyed the forests which once sur- j 
rounded the upper end of the valley, j 
and fuel is now scarce. The plain of j 
Usseglio is about 5 m. long by 1 m. | 
broad, and is obviously the filled -up 
bed of an ancient lake. It is covered 
with fields and meadows, which con- j 
trast finely with the Alpine scenery j 
of the background, the chief feature 
in which is the striking mass of the 
Torre d Ovarda{ 3,075 m., 10,089ft.), 
on the N. (This peak may be climbed 
in 5 hrs. from Usseglio by way of the 
Servin glen and the S.W. face, the 
view from the summit being very 
fine. For other ascents and passes 
from the Viu valley see Rtes. C 
and D. A.) 

It is 1 7 J m. from Usseglio to Lanzo, 
by the carriage road. At the further 
end of the plain of Usseglio the road 
descends steeply through a narrow 
gorge, and later passes the chapel of 
the Madonna degli OlmetH, in a 
singularly picturesque situation, beside 
a bridge over the Stura, before reach- 
ing (5m.) Lemie. The parish church 
of this village stands on a great rock, 
and commands a fine view of the 
head of the valley, and of the Roche - 
melon. Beyond Lemie the road 
crosses to Forno di Lewie, but then 
recrosses, and is carried along the 
left bank, through very beautiful 
scenery, to (5 m. ) the large village 



of Viu (785 m., 2,576 ft.), above the 
junction of the Tornetti glen with the 
main valley. Viu is a pretty village 
quite in the Swiss style, and has 
some splendid pleasure gardens, being 
much frequented in summer by visitors 
from Turin. The mountains to the 
S., on the slope of which, in a charm- 
ing position, is the village of Col San 
Giovanni (see next Rte. ), are covered 
with fine woods, the chestnut pre- 
vailing below, and the larch in the 
upper zone. From Viu the carriage 
road runs for 7 m. to Lanzo through 
beautiful scenery. Many scattered 
houses and hamlets are passed, and 
from time to time the traveller sees 
the snowy peak of the Rochemelon 
at the end of the valley, these glimpses 
serving to enhance the beauty of the 
nearer scenery. Soon after the valley 
bends from E. to N. the Stura 
is crossed by a stone bridge, and then 
the road mounts across a great promon- 
tory, high above the junction of the 
Stura di Viu with the main stream, 
formed by the union at Ceres of the 
torrents from the Val d' Ala and the Val 
Grande. The road descends to cross 
the united streams by the bridge of 
Germagnano, and immediately after 
joins the carriage road from these two 
valleys, 1 m. before attaining Lanzo 
(468 m., 1,535 ft -) This little town 
is very beautifully situated at the 
junction of the Tesso with the Stura 
di Lanzo, a short distance from the 
point where the latter river quits the 
mountains to enter the plain of Pied- 
mont N.W. of Turin. 

At Lanzo the traveller should not 
miss seeing (10 min. walk from the 
Piazza Santa Croce) the Ponte del Roc, 
a remarkable bridge which spans the 
Stura by a single arch. It was built 
in the last quarter of the fourteenth 
century, and its history having been 
forgotten, the skill of the unknown 
architect has received the popular 
compliment involved in the name of 
Ponte del Diavolo, by which it is also 
known. Near it there are a number 
of the holes called ' Marmites des 
I Geants,' formed by the action of the 



2 5 6 



GRAIAN ALPS. § 13. LEV ANNA DISTRICT 



rapidly-flowing water, which whirls 
round stones and sand, and so wears 
away the rock into a hollow basin. 
About 1 hr. from Lanzo, and on the 
lofty promontory of Monte Basiia, is 
the curious Sanctuary of St. Ignatius. 
The chapel (the present one of 1727 
replaces that of 1635) is built round 
the pointed rock which forms the 
summit, and this has been left in its 
natural condition to serve as a pedestal 
for the statue of the saint. A very 
agreeable excursion may be made from 
Lanzo by carriage road to Coassolo 
(3 m. ), in the Valdi Tessa, on the N., 
this valley being thickly clothed with 
chestnut, walnut, and various fruit 
trees. Hence there are paths to Ceres 
on the W., and Corio on the E., 
while two others over the higher 
range to the N. lead in 6 hrs. to 
Locana, in the valley of the Oreo 
(§ 15. Rte. I). 2 m. beyond Coassolo 
is Chiaves, J hr. from the Sanctuary 
just described, whence Ceres or Pes- 
sinetto can be reached in 1 hr. more. 

Lanzo is 20 m. from Turin by rail- 
way. As the mountains begin to open 
into the plain there is seen on the left 
XhzEremo di Lanzo, founded in 1661, 
but now a private villa, whence there 
is a remarkable view. The line passes 
by Cirie, Caselle, and Venaria Reale 
before reaching Turin. Travellers 
should note that the terminus of this 
local line is in the Borgo Dora, the 
N.E. quarter of Turin, and is some 
distance from the main station at the 
Porta Nuova in the W. portion of 
that city. 



Route C. 

VIU VALLEY TO THE DORA RIP ARIA 
VALLEY. 

There are a number of passes across 
the range separating these two valleys, 
which are here briefly noticed, in case 
a traveller should prefer to cross one 



I of them rather than make the round 
by Turin. (Those leading from the 
Viu valley to the Ala valley on the 
N. are noticed in the next Rte. ) 

I. Colle delta Croce di Ferro. — A 
steep ascent of 2 hrs. leads from the 
Malciaussia huts (themselves 2 hrs. 
from Usseglio) to the summit of this 
pass (2,553 m., S.3J6 ft. ), which takes 
its name from an iron cross placed 
there. As mentioned in Rte. A, 
there is a path hence in 3 hrs. to the 
Ca d'Asti, this being the easiest route 
from the Viu valley to the Rocheme- 
lon. The descent to Mompantero, 

; near Susa, is made in a S.W. direc- 
tion past the Trucco chalets (? 2 hrs. ) 

I 2. Colle delta Portia Ouest. — There 
is a mule path to this pass from the 
hamlet of Piazzette, at the E. end of 

: the Usseglio plain, but pedestrians 
may mount more directly from the 
hamlet of Corteviccio across the low 

: pass of the Sagnadel Vallo?ietto (from 
which the ascent of the Punta Lunella, 
2,772 m., 9,095 ft., maybe made by 
its N. E. ridge in 5 hrs. from Usseglio, 
the view thence being very fine) to 
the Col (2,190 m., 7,185 ft.) The 
mule path leads down to Condove 
(7 hrs. from Usseglio), a station on the 
Mont Cenis railway (§ 7. Rte. A). 

3. Colle del Colombardo. — This 
pass from Forno di Lernie to Condove 
takes about the same time as the last. 
On the summit (1,888 m., 6,194 ft.) 
is the chapel of the Madonna degli 
Angeli, while on the way up the 

; botanist may find Pinus unci?tata, 
' Sempervivum Wulfenii, and other 
rare plants. The chief recommenda- 
; tion of this pass is that in i§ hr. from 
I it the summit of the Monte Civrari 
(2,302 m., 7,553 ft.) maybe reached, 
and this is one of the finest points for 
a panoramic view in the neighbour- 
■ hood of Turin. If starting from Viu 
for this peak (5 hrs. up) it is more 
' direct to mount past Col San Giovan- 
. ni and the Civrari lake, while it is 
i easy to descend to Rubiana, on the 
route of the Colle del Lis. 

4. Colle del Lis. — A steep ascent 
I of 1 \ hr. to the S. leads from Viu to 



ROUTE D. ALA VALLEY TO VI U VALLEY 



257 



the picturesque village of Col San 
Giovanni (1,117 m -> 35665 ft.), now 
much frequented in summer by Italian 
visitors. Hence a mule path mounts 
due S. (leaving on the S.W. the way 
up the Monte Civrari, see 3. above) 
over the Col del Lis (1,310 m., 4,298 
ft. ) in 3 hrs. to Rubiana, whence in 
under 2 hrs. more the stations of 
Condove or of Avigliana may be 
reached. 

5. Colle della Poi-tia Est and Colle 
delta Lunella. — Either of these passes 
(1,324 m., 4,344 ft., and 1,320 m., 
4,331 ft., respectively) leads from 
Col San Giovanni in about 4 hrs. to 
the Valle della Torre, through which 
either the Alpignano (M. Cenis line) 
or the Venaria Reale (Lanzo line) 
station is reached after a rather long 
walk. 



Route D. 

ALA VALLEY TO THE VI U VALLEY 
AND THE VAL GRANDE. 

The Ala Valley (described in detail 
in the next Rte. ) is the central one of 
the three Valleys of Lanzo, so that it 
seems most convenient to group in 
one Rte. the passes from it to its two 
neighbours on the S. and the N. : the 
passes from the Viu valley towards 
the S. were noticed in the last Rte., 
while those from the Val Grande to- 
wards the N. will be found in Rte. H, 
below. In each case the order fol- 
lowed is from the higher passes on 
the W. to the lower passes on the 
E. 

A. Ala Valley to the Viu Valley. 
I. Collarin d'Arnas. — This way 
passes along the E. base of the 
frontier ridge. Starting from Balme, 
the traveller follows the track to the 
Col d'Arnas (see next Rte. ) as far as 
the Crot del Ciaussine Club hut 
(3 hrs.), and for some distance be- 
yond. The Collarin (2,851 m., 
9,354 ft.) is reached by easy broken 

1. 



rocks and snow in about 1 hr. from 
the hut, and it is by this route that a 
traveller coming from Usseglio must 
gain the Col d'Arnas. There is an 
unexpectedly fine view hence of 
Monte Rosa and the Grand Paradk, 
as well as of the nearer Bessanese, 
Ciamarella and Croce Rossa. 10 min. 
run down snow slopes suffices for the 
descent to the great Lago della Rossa, 
which is almost always frozen, and 
lies immediately under the fine peak 
of the Croce Rossa. Hence there 
are two ways of descending to 
Usseglio. 

(a) The shortest and most direct is 
to bear E. over a precipitous rocky 
barrier to the hut on the upland 
plain at the head of the Bellaco?nba 
valley {\ hr. ), a wild glen (where an 
iron mine was formerly worked, with 
which it is far more probable that the 
inscriptions found here and the stone 
altar now preserved at Usseglio should 
be connected than with the existence 
of a pass at that early period, as 
some writers have conjectured). 

[Here the short cut from Mussa 
over the Pas so Mongioire (2,812 m., 
9,226 ft.) falls in.] 

That valley is then followed over 
scanty pastures, down rocky barriers, 
and by a steep stony track, but 
amidst scenery becoming more and 
more picturesque at every step, to the 
Corteviccio hamlet, on the plain of 
Usseglio (about 3 hrs. from the lake, 
or 7 hrs. from Balme). 

(b) The longer route leads from 
the lake due S. over the Colle Altare 
(2,910 m., 9,548 ft.) to the Pera 
CiavalClub hut (2,600 m., 8,531 ft.), 
on the Sabiunin plain (if- hr. ) 

[Hence the Colle della Valletta 
(3,145 m., 10,319 ft.), on the N.W., 
can be reached in i-| hr., and the 
summit of the Croce Rossa (3,567 m., 
11,703 ft.) in 1 hr. more ; but that 
peak and its neighbour, the Punta 
d'Arnas, are more conveniently de- 
scribed in connection with the Col 
d'Arnas in the next Rte. J 

From the Club hut (4 hrs. up from 
Usseglio) it is shortest to descend to 

s 



258 GRAIAN ALPS. § 13. 



LEVANNA DISTRICT 



the Bellacomba glen, as above, but 
an active walker may from the hut 
continue in a S. direction over the 
Colle Soutt (3,073 m., 10,083 ft-) to 
the Col de l'Autaret track, below the 
lake of that name (Rte. B). 

2. Colle Paschiet. — This is a much 
shorter route than the last, 5 hrs. 
only being required from Balme to 
Lemie. On the way up from Balme 
to the pass (2,435 m -> 7,989 ft. ) three 
picturesque lakes, formed by a berg- 
fall, are passed. From the Ala side 
of the pass the Torre d^Ovarda 
(3,075 m., 10,089 ft. ) may be climbed 
in 7 hrs. from Balme by its N.E. 
face. 

3. Colle del Tre Lajet. — This pass 
(which takes its name from several 
lakes near the summit), 2,222 m., 
7,290 ft., is due S. of Ala, and leads 
thence in 6-7 hrs. to either Lemie 
or Viu, by bearing either S.W. or 
S.E. through the Tometti glen. To 
the E. of this pass is the lower and 
easier Colle di Plan Fumo, 2,067 m -? 
6,782 ft. (from Ala to Viu direct in 
6 hrs. ), on the steep and menacing 
serpentine rocks E. of which the 
botanist may find Cerasthim lineai-e. 
Allium pedemontanum, Carex hispi- 
dula, and other very rare plants. It 
is possible also to reach the latter pass 
from near Ceres through a short and 
steep glen, up the left side of which 
there is a faintly marked path, while 
the hamlet of Tometti, where the 
tracks from both passes join, may be 
gained from Mezzenile or Pessinetto 
by way of the True della Dieta 
(1,562 m., 5,125 ft.) 

4. Colle della Ciarmetta. — A some- 
what circuitous mule path mounts 
from Mezzenile past several hamlets 
to the summit of this pass (1,304 m., 
4,278 ft.), which is a little E. of the 
True della Dieta, and is crowned by 
a chapel. It commands a fine view 
on all sides. A steep path descends 
the bare mountain slope direct to Viu 
(3 hrs. from Mezzenile), but there is 
another, longer and easier, which 
winds down through a fine forest. 



B. Ala Valley to Val Grande; 

I. Ghicet di Sea. — This pass crosses 
the ridge between the two valleys about 
midway between the Ciamarella on 
the W. and the Uja di Mondrone on 
the E. The Ala valley is mounted to 
the end of the pasture plain of Mussa, 
whence the track mounts N.E. up 
the Ciamarella glen to the pass, 
2,735 m., 8,973 ^ (3i-4 hrs.), being 
joined on the way by a short cut from 
Mussa past the Rossa huts. The term 
' Ghicet ' is akin to the French 
' Guichet 5 and the English 4 wicket. ' 
The faintly marked track on the other 
side first bears idown an easy couloir, 
then bends sharply to the E. , along 
a natural ledge, and descends by a 
great slope of debris to the Sea glen, 
the Sea chalets being reached in 
2 \ hrs. from the pass. They are about 
1 77 hr. above Forno, at the head of 
the Val Grande (Rte. G). 

2. Colle delP Ometto and Colle di 
Trione. — These two passes lead in 
about 6 hrs. from Mondrone or Balme 
to Forno and Groscavallo respectively. 
The former, 2,600 m., 8,531 ft. (also 
called Ghicet d'Ala) is at the N. foot 
of the Uja di Mo?idro7ie (2,964 m., 
9,725 ft.), a striking rock peak (acces- 
sible hence by its N. ridge in 7 hrs, 
from Balme or Forno), and leads over 
to the Sea chalets ; the Ciamarella 
and Bessanese are prominent features 
in the view, which also includes two 
villages in the Val d'Ala. The latter 
pass (2,450 m., 8,038 ft.) leads nearly 
due N. direct to Groscavallo. 

3. Colle dei Croset and Colle oVAttia. 
— Both these passes start up the 
slopes N. of Ala. The foot path over 
the former (2,370 m. , 7,776 ft.) runs 
due N., and gains Bonzo in 6 hrs. 
from Ala, while the mule path over 
the latter (2,078 m., 6,818 ft.) leads 
in a N.E. direction and over a 
second low pass, Colle di Crosiasse 
(1,922 m., 6,306 ft.), J hr. distant, 
to Chialamberto, which is 4 hrs. from 
Ala by this route. 



ROUTE E. BESSANS TO BALME AND LANZO 259* 



Route E. 

BESSANS TO BALME AND LANZO BY 
THE COLS D'ARNAS AND DU COL- 
LERIN. 

The Averole glen communicates 
not only with the Viu Valley by the 
Col de l'Autaret (Rte. B), but also 
with that of Ala, whither lead two 
easy snow passes, each of which may 
be combined with the ascent of a fine 
peak, without any fear of making the 
day too long. 

1. By the Col d'Arnas (7 J hrs.)— 
In some respects this is the better 
pass of the two. From the hamlet of 
Averole, ijhr. from Bessans(Rte. B), 
the track above the right bank of the 
stream is followed past the chapel of 
N. £>, de la Delivrance slightly S. E. 
to the left bank of the Arnas t glacier 
( 1 1 hr. ), over the gently inclined upper 
portion of which the Col (3,014 m., 
9,889 ft.) is gained without the 
slightest difficulty in hr. more. 

[By bearing, to the S. E. from the 
chapel just mentioned it is easy to 
gain in 2 hrs. from Averole the 
Valletta glacier. Hence the twin 
peaks of the Croce Rossa (3,567 m., 
11,703 ft.) and the Punt a d'Arnas 
(3,540 m., 11,615 ft.) can easily be 
ascended. The latter may be at- 
tained in 2 J hrs. by its shaly N.W, 
ridge, but, if it is wished to combine 
both summits in the same expedition, 
it is better to cross, this ridge at a 
lower point, where it is nearly level, 
and then to work rpund (if hr.) to 
the gap between the two peaks, 
which falls sheerly on the other side 
towards the Lago della Rossa. From 
the gap the P. d'Arnas (to the N.) 
can be'climbedin 50 min. by the easy 
broken rocks of its S. ridge, or the 
Croce Rossa (to the S. ) in about 1 hr. 
by the N. face and ridge. It is 
better to take the latter peak first if it 
is intended to return to the Col 
d'Arnas— 2 hrs. from the summit of 
the P. d'Arnas— or to the Averole 



glen, but from either it is easy to 
descend over the Colle della Valletta 
to the Pera Ciaval Club hut in \\- 
2 hrs. (see Rte. D. A. 1.) It should 
be noted that the Punta d'Arnas is 
the Ouille d'Ar.beron of the French 
map, which gives the former name to 
a minor summit just N. of the Col 
d'Arnas, and does not name the 
Croce Rossa, to which a height of 
3,564^. (11^693 ft.) is attributed. 

Some way to the N.W. of the Col 
d'Arnas is the splendid rocky peak of 
the Bessaaese (Grandes Pareis of the 
French map), 3,632 m., 11,917 ft., 
the Matterhorn of the district. Its 
ascent is not, however, very formidable. 
A. party attacking it from the French 
side should leave the Arnas glacier to 
the S., in order to mount to a small 
glacier just S. of the peak. (If com- 
ing from the Col d'Arnas it is easy to 
clamber, at its E. end, up the lofty 
barrier of rock which separates the 
two glaciers. ) In this way the rockjr, 
S. ridge is gained (4 hrs. from 
Averole ; about the same point is 
gained by those coming up from the 
Crot del Ciaussine Club hut, on the 
Italian side) at the very foot of the 
final peak. Hence easy broken rocks, 
and short snow slopes lead up in 1 
hr. to the great cairn on the first and 
lower peak ; the higher and central 
summit is attained in 25 min. or less 
by an awkward traverse on the W» 
side, and then by the ridge N. or S.. 
of it. The view from the top is ex.-- 
tremeiy fine, particularly down the 
precipices which seem to fall verti- 
cally both E. and W. The lower, 
peak was first gained in 1857 by 
Signor Tonini, a Piedmontese sur- 
veyor who in 1 860 lost his life on the 
Agnel glacier, in the Ambin group, 
but the highest point (50-65 ft., 
loftier) was not attained till 1873, 
when Signor M, Baretti added it 
to his many other conquests. In, 
1889 Signor G. Rey effected a new 
route up the N. ridge, and this is 
recommended to rock-climbers, It 
is best to start from the Crot del 
Ciaussine Club hut (see below), and 

s 2 



260 GRAIAN ALPS. § 13. 



LEVANNA DISTRICT 



thence, by a prominent couloir running 
up from the Bessanese glacier, to gain 
the N. ridge just at the base of the 
final peak (2J hrs. ), whence it is 
an interesting climb of 2§ hrs. on 
the W. side of the needle-crowned 
ridge to the N. summit, the central 
peak being reached in J hr. more by 
the E. slope of the ridge. 3 

The Col d'Arnas is a well-marked 
and narrow opening, whence a steep 
gully and a bit of glacier lead down 
in J hr. to the Crot del Ciaussine 
Club hut, the way to the Collarin 
d'Arnas (Rte. D. A. 1) being seen on 
the right. 

[This Club hut, also called Rifugio 
Gastaldi (2,649 m., 8,691 ft.), is in a 
hollow or basin, and is conveniently 
placed for the ascents of the Bes- 
sanese (4j-5f hrs. ) by the S. or N. 
aretes, of the Ciamarella (4 hrs. : see 
below), of the Albaron (3! hrs. : see 
below), and of the Croce Rossa 
and Punta d'Arnas (3^-4i nrs - : see 
above).] 

It takes about 2 hrs. (3 -3 J hrs. 
suffice for the ascent) to go from the 
Club hut to Balme. A slight ascent, 
and then two debris gullies lead down 
on the N. to the bare pastures of 
Naressa, across which a new path 
guides the traveller down the right- 
hand edge of the deep cleft of the 
Canale delle Capre to the level of the 
pasture plain or basin of Mussa. At 
its W. end is the great boulder known 
as the Rocca Venoni> which now 
shelters a hut ( 1 hr. ), and then follows 
a pleasant walk over the green plain. 
After passing a small chapel the 
path descends steeply on the S. side 
of a narrow gorge, till some meadows 
are gained, and a stone bridge leads 
over the Stura to Balme (1 hr. ), the 
highest village in the Ala valley. 

2. By the Col du Collerin (8 hrs. )— 
The way to this pass mounts steeply 
towards the N.N.E. soon after leaving 
Averole, and leads over grass slopes, 
stones, and moraine to the N. end of 
the E?itre Deux Risses glacier, over 
which the pass (3,202 m., 10,506 ft.) 
is gained in 4 hrs. from Averole, no 



difficulty whatever having been en- 
countered. 

£It is perfectly easy for a party 
coming from the Albaron (3,662 m., 
12,015 ft- : see n ^xt Rte.) either to 
descend from its S.W. flank and 
reach this pass in 2 hrs. by an easy and 
nearly level glacier, or to follow from 
the summit of the peak the easy snow 
ridge running S.E. to the Ouillarse 
(3,491 m., 11,454 ft ), and so to 
gain the upper part of the Collerin or 
Pian Ghias glacier at the foot of the 
couloir on the Italian side of the 
pass. J 

The view from the pass includes 
the neighbouring peaks, and even 
the Dent Parrachee, and the three 
Aiguilles d'Arves. The descent on 
the Italian side lies down a short and 
broad, but rather steep snow couloir 
(which gives its name to the pass, as 
' collerin,' like c colour ' and ' colou- 
ret,' in other parts of the Italian 
Alps, is the patois form of the term 
' couloir '). The couloir takes only 
10 min., and then the nearly level 
glacier is descended in about 40 min. 
It is quitted on the right bank, 
the route from the Col d'Arnas being 
soon joined on the Naressa pastures, 
and followed to Balme, reached in 
2\ hrs. from the pass. 

[By bearing to the N. E. from about 
the middle of the Collerin glacier it 
is easy to ascend a rocky step in fhr. 
to the Ciamarella glacier, which lies 
on an upper shelf. Hence \\ hr. 
suffices to climb the schist slopes of 
the S.W. flank of the Ciamarella 
(3,676 m., 12,061 ft.) to the W. 
ridge, by which the summit, a nearly 
level-topped ridge, resembling a tent 
in form, and recalling the Monch 
from some points of view, is attained. 
It has been reached in 5 j- hrs. ' quick 
walking from Balme direct, but 4 hrs. 
are usually counted from the Crot del 
Ciaussine Club hut. The peak rises 
a short distance E. of the frontier 
ridge, so that it is wholly in Italy. It 
was first ascended in 1857 by Signor 
Tonini, and then in 1866 by Count 
Paul de St. Robert, and is now a very 



ROUTE E. BESSANS TO BALME AND LANZO 261 



favourite climb with Italian moun- 
taineers, though as yet but few- 
foreign mountaineers have visited it. 
Yet the panorama may be reckoned 
as among the most superb in the 
Alps, extending from beyond the 
Bernina group to the Maritime Alps, 
while the spectator seems to dominate 
the plains of Piedmont. A number 
of other routes have been forced up 
the Ciamarella. But it may be suffi- 
cient to mention here only two of 
these, both useful for those approach- 
ing the peak from France. One 
descends the W. ridge to its junction 
with the main frontier ridge at the 
rocky peak of the Piccola Ciamarella, 
and rounding this on the S., gains 
the Colle della Ciamarella in 50 min. 
from the higher peak ; thence steep 
slopes of ice or snow and seracs lead 
down to the Evettes glacier ( J hr. ), on 
which the Col de Sea route (Rte. G) is 
joined, and Bonneval reached, under 
favourable circumstances, in 4 hrs. 
from the summit of the Ciamarella. 
The other quits the W. ridge before 
reaching the E. foot of the Piccola 
Ciamarella, and descends steep ice or 
snow slopes, with a patch of rocks in 
the middle, to the Colle Tonini, a 
gap only separated from the Col de 
Sea (easily gained thence by a short 
descent) by the rocky Punta Tonini 
(3,343 m., 10,968 ft.) An active 
party making an early start may go 
from the Ciamarella to the Albaron 
in 3-4 hrs. by way of the Ciamarella 
glacier, the rocky ridge on its W., 
the Selle d* Albaron — see below — and 
the S.E. ridge of the Albaron, 
wrongly called Pointe de Chalanson 
on the French map. 

As the topography of the frontier 
ridge between the Col du Collerin 
and the Piccola Ciamarella is badly 
given on the maps, and there is great 
confusion as to the names, it may be 
useful here to give a list of the prin- 
cipal peaks and passes on it. 

(i.) Punta Collerin (3,484 m. 
French map, 3,442 m. Italian map). 

(ii. ) Punta delP Ouillarse (3,491 
m., 11,454 ft., French map; the 



Mont Collerin, 3,462 m., 11,359 
ft., of the Italian map). — This 
summit marks the junction of the 
ridge running S.E. from the Albaron 
with the main or frontier ridge. It 
is crowned by a huge cairn, built 
round a pole. It can be reached in 
35 min. from the Albaron along the 
snowy S.E. arete of the latter. Just 
N. W. of it is the snowy Selle d?A Ibaron, 
a point on the S.E. ridge of the 
Albaron, whence it is easy to descend 
in a S.W. direction direct to Averole 
(2 hrs. ) without making a detour over 
the summit of the Albaron. The 
descent from the Selle to the Evettes 
glacier is more difficult, and takes 
\\-2. hrs. (see next Rte. in the 
notice of the Albaron. ) 

(iii. ) Col de Chalanson (3,327 m. , 
10,916 ft., Italian map). — This is a 
broad, snowy depression between the 
Ouillarse and the Mont Chalanson. 
It is reached by easy snow slopes 
from the Collerin glacier, but the 
direct descent to the Evettes glacier 
down a very steep rock wall has 
not yet been effected, and it is 
necessary to bear N.W. along the 
glacier shelf on the N. E. face of the Al- 
baron. It is perfectly easy to mount 
from this depression to the Selle 
d'Albaron, and this is the route taken 
by a party going from the Collerin 
glacier to the Albaron, or to Averole 
direct. 

(iv. ) Mont Chalanson. — This fine 
snowy point is the loftiest sum- 
mit on the frontier ridge between 
the Bessanese and the E.. Levanna, 
and its true height is not far from 
M. Rabot's estimate of 3,530 m. 
(11, 582 ft. ) It rises at about the spot 
where stands the name ' Mt. Col- 
lerin ' on the French map, but is not 
indicated on the Italian map, though 
it is at the junction of the rocky spur 
separating the Collerin and Ciama- 
rella glaciers with the main ridge. 
It is easily climbed by its snowy W. 
ridge, which may, by easy snow 
slopes from the S., and by steep 
snow slopes from the N., be also 
gained at a point about 20 min. from 



262 GRAIAN ALPS. § 13. 



LEVANNA DISTRICT 



the summit. Some writers seem to 
call the point at which this ridge is 
thus struck the 6 Col de Chalanson,' 
but though, no doubt, there is a slight 
depression there between the main 
peak and a snowy hump on the W., 
it seems more suitable to reserve that 
name for the well-marked gap farther 
W. 

(v.) Colle della Ciamarella (3,397 
m. , 11,146 ft., Italian map). — This 
pass is reached by rocks and a snow 
slope in 20 min. from the upper part 
of the Ciamarella glacier ; the descent 
is made in J hr. to the Evettes glacier 
by steep snow or ice slopes and some 
seracs. 

(vi. ) Piccolo, Ciamarella (3,420m., 
11,221 ft., Italian map, 3,565 m., 
11,500 ft., French map). — This rocky 
point is as it were the pendant of 
the Ouillarse, since from it runs to 
the E. the great spur crowned by the 
Ciamarella itself. It can be climbed 
from the E. or W. — the latter direc- 
tion is the best. J 

Balme (1,458 m., 4,784 ft.) is un- 
doubtedly the best headquarters for 
mountaineers in any of the three 
Valleys of Lanzo, while it is pictu- 
resquely situated, the dark rocky 
mass of the Bessanese blocking the end 
of the valley. Besides the peaks and 
passes described in the last and the 
present Rtes. there are two sum- 
mits easily reached from Balme. 
The Torre WOvarda (3,075 m. , 
10,689 ft.), which towers up on the 
S., is accessible in 7 firs, from the 
N.E., and the Uja di Mondro7ie 
(2,964 m., 9,7-25 ft.), on the N., is 
reached in rather less time from the 
S., W., or N. 

Balme is 17 m. by carriage road 
from Lanzo, always on or above the 
left bank of the Stura. A gorge is 
traversed before reaching (2111.) the 
poor village of Mondrone, over which 
towers on the N.W. the rugged Uja 
di Mondrone, so that the village is 
much exposed to falls from its mighty 
neighbour. Near Mondrone is a fine 



waterfall, called the Gorgia di Mon- 
drone. The Stura first springs over 
a ledge, and falls 17 m. (56 ft. ) into a 
basin scooped out in the rock ; escap- 
ing from this through a narrow cleft, 
the stream rushes at one bound into a 
dark chasm, making a leap of 65 m. 
(213 ft.) between perpendicular walls 
of rock, 154 m. (505 ft.) in height, 
but only 10 m. (33 ft.) apart. A 
bridge has been thrown across the 
stream in this cleft, so as to allow the 
traveller to admire this striking work 
of Nature. Walnut trees appear 
below Mondrone ; a small chapel, 
built on the top of a huge boulder, 
apparently fallen from the mountain- 
side above, is passed, and then the 
prettily-situated chief hamlet of the 
commune of Ala (4m.) is attained. 
The road descends steeply after the 
chapel of Saulet, and runs for several 
miles through a rocky defile, with but 
few and occasional signs of human 
activity. Looking back, fine views 
are gained of the Bessanese and of 
the Uja di Mondrone. (At the base 
of the steep descent a path leads 
down in a few minutes to the Ponte 
delle Scale, a bridge of a single arch, 
thrown across the Stura in a singu- 
larly picturesque situation.) Several 
hamlets are passed, while opposite is 
seen that of Almese, on which the sun 
does not shine for 3J months in the 
winter, owing to its N. exposure. 
9 m. from Balme is the large village 
of Ceres, on a promontory above the 
junction of the Stura di Ala and the 
Stura di Val Grande. The neigh- 
bourhood of Ceres abounds in beauti- 
ful scenery. To the N. , 2 hrs. away, 
is the Sanctuary of Santa Cristina, 
perched at a height of 1,340 m. 
(4,397 ft. ), on an extremely steep rock, 
and commanding a very fine view. 
It is much visited by pilgrims on 
July 24 each year. The people of 
this region earn their living chiefly 
as nailers, and from an early age the 
children are brought up to that trade. 

The road, on quitting Ceres, 
crosses the Stura di Val Grande shortly 
before it unites with the Ala branch, 



ROUTE F. ASCENTS FROM 



BESSANS AND BONNEVAL 263 



joins the road from the Val Grande [ 
(Rte. G), and then runs along the left 
bank of the united streams past Pessi- 
netto. Just opposite is Mezzenile, a 
commune made up of, it is said, 
43 hamlets, some very distant from 
each other. (From Mezzenile or 
Pessinetto an excursion may be made 
in if hr. to the curious and extensive 
Grotto of Pugnet, for which a guide is 
necessary, as it is very easy to go 
astray in it. ) Beyond Pessinetto the 
road continues along the left bank of 
the Stura, and joins that from the 
Viu Valley (Rte. B) just as this has 
crossed the bridge of Germagnano, 
I m. from Lanzo. The Ala Valley 
is the narrowest, wildest, and most 
Alpine in character of the three in- 
cluded in this Section. 



Route F. 

ASCENTS FROM BESSANS AND 
BONNEVAL. 

At the head of the valley of the 
Arc are the two villages of Bessans 
and Bonneval, which, as headquarters 
for mountaineers, form a pendant in 
this valley to those of Tignes and Val 
dTsere in the upper valley of the 
Isere. They were briefly mentioned 
in § 12. Rte. B. when noticing the 
way over the Col d'Iseran, but it may 
be convenient for travellers to group 
together in this Rte. some notes of 
the ascents that can be made from 
either, or on the way from one to the 
other. It must be premised that at 
a pinch, and with very few excep- 
tions, any of these climbs may be 
taken from either village, though one 
or other hamlet may be more conve- 
nient as a starting point. 

1. Ascents from Bessans. — Bessans 
is a considerable and rather wealthy 
village, built at a height of 1,742 m. 
(5,715 ft. )j on the left bank of the Arc, 
in a grassy plain at the N.W. foot of 
the Charbonel. The inhabitants are 



closely connected in commercial 
matters with Italy, and Italian is 
generally understood here. In the 
Middle Ages it depended on the 
great Benedictine monastery of St. 
Michel de la Cluse, near Turin, as 
did the far better known Chamonix. 
Many of the houses here are adorned 
with frescoes outside, as well as the 
porch of the parish church, which 
stands on a mound above the village. 
Close to the church is the ruined 
chapel of St. Antony, on the walls 
of which is a series of most curious 
and interesting frescoes (unluckily 
rapidly falling to pieces) of the 
sixteenth century, representing the 
life of our Lord ; some are still well 
preserved, and deserve not merely a 
visit from a passing traveller, but a 
better fate than that which appa- 
rently awaits them at the hands of their 
owners. Bessans is famous for its 
blue cheeses, but the inn is very in- 
ferior to the new Hotel at Bonneval. 
For all historical details as to Bes- 
sans and Bonneval reference should 
be made to M. Henri Ferrand's ex- 
cellent ' Itineraire Descriptif, His- 
torique, et Archeologique de la 
Maurienne et de la Tarentaise ' 
(Grenoble, 1879). 

The principal ascent to be made 
from Bessans is that of the Pointe de 
Charbonel (3,760 m., 12,336 ft.), the 
monarch of the Central Graians. 
Owing to its great height, and 
isolated position at the end of a long 
spur projecting N.W. from the fron- 
tier ridge, the panorama from the 
summit is most magnificent, while the 
ascent offers no difficulties at all to 
practised mountaineers. It is best 
made in 5-6 hrs. by way of the 
Combe d'Averole, the glacier on the 
N.W. of the peak, and the N. arete. 
The N.W. ridge may be reached by 
a long and stony ascent (or at the 
end the S.W. spur ascended) from 
the Pierre Grosse chalets, in the Ribon 
glen, on the S.W. side of the peak, 
while the route from Italy along the 
S.E. ridge is even longer and more 
fatiguing. The ascents of the Pointe 



264 



GRAIAN ALPS. § 13. LEVANNA DISTRICT 



de Ronce, 3,618 m., 11,871 ft. (6hrs.) 

and of the Rockemelon, 3,537 m., 
11,605 ft- (6hrs. ), have been described 
in Rte. A. above, those of the Croce 
Rossa (3,567 m., 11,703 ft.), of the 
Piinta d'Arnas (3,540 m., 11,615 ft. ), 
and of the Bessanese (3,632 m., 
11,917 ft.), each taking about 6 hrs., 
have been noticed in Rte. E, and 
those of the peaks near the Mean 
Martin glacier, on the N., in § 12. 
Rte. K. 2. 

2. Front Bessans to Bonneval. — 
Bessans may be reached from Lansle- 
bourg by way of the Grand Roc JVoir, 
in about 9 hrs. (§ 12. Rte. B), and 
similarly Bonneval may be reached 
from Bessans by one or more high- 
level routes. The finest is, perhaps, 
that over the Albaron, 3,662 m., 
12,015 ft. (wrongly called Pointe de 
Chalanson by the French map). 
This beautiful snow peak is accessible 
from Bessans without the slightest 
difficulty in SSi nrs - by way of the 
Combe d'Averole, the Lau chalets, 
the Grand Fond glacier, and the 
S.W. ridge or face. This summit is 
perhaps the belvedere of the upper 
valley of the Arc, and should become 
the Cima di Jazzi of this region. It 
is easy either to descend from the 
S.W. ridge, and then gain in 2 hrs. 
from the peak the Col du Collerin 
over a level glacier, or to walk along 
the S.E. ridge past the Selle 
d'Albaron down to the Col de 
Chalanson (see last Rte. ), in about 
40 m. Thence it is easy to go down 
to Balme or the Crot del Ciaussine 
Club hut by the Collerin glacier, or 
to climb the Ciamarella^ 3,676 m., 
12,061 ft. (3-4 hrs. from the Albaron.) 
A party bound for Bonneval should 
from that broad snowy Col avoid the, 
as yet uneffected, direct descent by a 
very steep rock wall to the Evettes 
glacier, and bear N.W. by the great 
glacier arm, which stretches like a 
shelf along the N.E. face of the 
Albaron ; the one point at which a 
descent could be forced from this 
shelf to the Evettes glacier is over- 
hung by so dangerous a fragment of 



ice that it is more prudent to continue 
along this glacier for its whole length, 
some very steep rocks at its N. end 
finally allowing access to the Evettes 
glacier (2 hrs. from the Col). Hence 
the Col des Evettes (Rte. G) is 
gained in £ hr., and Bonneval in 
i-J hr. more by the Col de Sea route. 
The descent by the Col du GreffUr 
(3,112 m.j 10,210 ft., French map), 
and a steep snow couloir to the Val- 
lonet glacier, is an hour shorter. 

Another pleasant way from Bessans 
to Bonneval is to mount by the 
Cueigne chalets and Le Vallon to the 
fine view-point of the Pointe de 
Mean Martin^ 3,337 m., 10,949 ft. 
(5 hrs.), whence Bonneval may be 
gained in 2-2§ hrs. either by the Col 
des Roches, on the N. , or by return- 
ing to the chalets at the S.E. end of 
Le Vallon, and then following the 
path over the pastures above the pre- 
cipices overhanging the Arc valley. 

3. From Bonneval. — Bonneval 
(1,835 m -5 6,021 ft.) is a small mount- 
ain village in a rather dreary position, 
but now boasts the excellent Chalet 
Hotel, built by the Lyons section of the 
French Alpine Club. The Pointe de 
Mean Martin (3,337 m., 10,949 ft.) 

j may be ascended hence direct by the 
Col des Roches in 3J hrs. , while the 
excursions up the Pelaou Blanc^ 
3,136 m., 10,289 ft. (4j hrs.), the 
Mont Iseran, 3,241 m., 10,634 ft. 
(4J hrs.), and the Aiguille Pers, 
3,451 rn., 11,323 ft. (4| hrs.), 

1 . have been noticed in § 12. Rte. B, in 
connection with the passage of the 
Col d'Iseran. A shorter climb than 
any of those just mentioned is the 
Pointe des A rses ( 3 , 203 m. , 10,509 ft. ), 
just N. of Bonneval, and accessible 
thence with ease in 3-g- hrs. by way of 
the W. or S. faces. Perhaps the chief 
belvedere of Bonneval on the N. side 
of the valley is the Grande Aiguille 
Rousse (3,482 m., 11,424 ft.), which 
can be climbed direct in about 5 hrs. 
from the S.W. (For a fuller descrip- 
tion of this point, and of the routes 
up it from the N. E. and N. , see Rte. 
K. below.) 



ROUTE F. ASCENTS FROM BONNEVAL 



265 



But the chief ascents to be made 
from Bonne val are those on the S. 
side of the valley. The routes up the 
Albaron (3,662 m., 12,015 ft.) and 
the Cia??iare lla (3,676m., 12,061 ft.) 
have been briefly noticed above and 
in Rte. E respectively. The main 
attraction at Bonneval to the moun- 
taineer is the three-peaked Levanna, 
any of the points of which can be 
most easily reached from the French 
side (for the Italian side see Rte. G. 
below, and § 15. Rte. I). The 
second highest point is the Wester?! 
Levanna (3,607 m., 11,835 ^-)» 
climbed in i860 by the late Mr. J. J. 
Cowell. It may be attained by even 
the least practised climber in about 
5 hrs. from Bonneval by way of the 
Lac Blanc and the glacier on the 
W. of the peak ; there is now a hut 
near the summit, built by the Italian 
surveyors in 18S1. The highest 
point is formed by a huge slab, rest- 
ing upon a heap of smaller rocks, and 
projecting over the edge of the preci- 
pice on the Italian side. The pano- 
rama from the summit is very fine, 
and this very easy ascent deserves to 
be frequently made. It may well be 
combined with the passage of the Col 
du Carro (Rte. H), just as the two 
other peaks are best taken on the 
way over the Col de Girard (Rte. G). 
The Central Levanna (3,640 m. , 
11,943 ft.) is the loftiest? of the three 
points. It may be reached in 6 hrs. 
from Bonneval by means of a rock 
climb up the S.W. face from the 
Glacier de la Source de PArc ; the 
top is composed of two rock knobs, 
the eastern of which is perhaps 
slightly higher. The Central Le- 
vanna was first ascended in 1875 by 
Signori Vaccarone and Gramaglia. 
The Eastern Levamia (3,564 m., 
11,693 ft-)> though the lowest of the 
three, commands the best panorama, 
as it stands like a sentinel looking out 
over the Piedmontese plains, which 
are very well seen thence. It may 
be reached in 5^ hrs. from Bonne- 
val by way of the above-mentioned 
glacier and the N.W. ridge or W. 



face, while the descent may be made 
in if hr. by the very steep rocks of 
the E. face to the Levanna glacier, 
at its S.E. foot. This summit was 
reached in 1874 by Lord Wentworth 
(now Earl of Lovelace), who found 
a cairn on the top. 

Few travellers, if they be not spe- 
cialists, will care to visit any of the 
numerous points on the frontier ridge 
between the Col de Girard and the 
Col de Sea. It may suffice here to 
refer generally to Signor Vaccarone's 
two articles, mentioned in the Intro- 
duction to this Section, and to give 
the following brief particulars of the 
four chief summits on this ridge. The 
Roc du Muhnet, or Citna Martellot, 
3,469 m. , 11,382 ft., French map 
(the Italian map makes it 3,437 m -> 
but it is certainly higher than the 
Punta Mezzenile), is accessible in 
4J-5 hrs. from Bonneval by the 
Mulinet glacier and the S. ridge. 
Next in order towards the S. comes 
the Punta Mezzenile (3,458m., 11,346 
ft. , French map, 3,446 m. , 11, 306 ft. , 
Italian map), 5 hrs. from Bonneval 
by way of the Gratid Mean glacier, 
and the W. flank, in which a weak 
point is found -by which the S. ridge 
is attained. The Punta Francesetti 
(3,441 m., 11,290 ft.) is on the 
French side a great snow dome, easily 
gained in \\ hrs. from Bonneval by 
the Grand Mean glacier and the W. 
face or the S. ridge. Finally there 
is the Punta Bonneval, 3,385 m., 
11,106 ft. (Italian map; the figures 
3,858 m. on the French map and 
3,451 m. on the Italian map are 
bad misprints), best reached from 
Bonneval in 5 hrs. by the Evettes 
glacier and a notch in the S.W. 
ridge ; a rather longer way is by the 
Grand Mean glacier and a notch in 
the E. ridge ; from either notch it is 
perfectly easy to descend by one or 
other of two small glaciers to the 
Sea chalets, on the route of the Col 
of that name (see next Rte. ) 



266 GRAIAN ALPS. § 13. LEVANNA DISTRICT 



Route G. 

BONNEVAL TO FORNO AND LANZO BY 
THE COLS DE SEA AND DE GIRARD. 

At Forno two glacier streams unite 
to form the Val Grande branch of the 
Stura, descending respectively from 
the S.W. through the Sea glen, and 
from the N. W. through that of Gura. 
Each of these glens runs down from 
the frontier ridge, so that there are 
two main routes (not counting the 
minor passes over the range between 
them) from Bonneval to Forno. The 
scenery of the Col de Sea is the finer, 
but the Col de Girard has the advan- 
tage that it can easily be combined 
with the ascent of one of the peaks of 
the Levanna. Both passes are de- 
scribed in Count Louis Mezzenile's 
1823 book, and traces of an old track 
are seen near the top of the Col de 
Girard. 

1. By the Col de Sea (8 hrs. )— The 
mule path across the Arc and then 
along the left bank of that river is 
followed from Bonneval to a fine 
waterfall, nearly opposite the hamlet 
of UEcot, on the other bank. 
This is not fed by the main 
stream flowing from the Evettes 
glacier (which is more to the E. ), but by 
one comingTrom the small lake (some- 
times dried up) at the N.W. end of 
that glacier. A rough track leads up 
from the main path, not far from the 
right bank of this stream, to the de- 
pression called Col des Evettes, 
between the Ouille du Midi and the 
Roc de Parei (2-2 J hrs.) A short 
descent leads to the lake, and the 
moraine on the left bank of the 
Evettes glacier is then followed to 
its upper level portion — a great 
shut-in basin. ' After taking to the 
glacier we crossed it diagonally, and 
then ascended the tributary from the 
Col de Sea, keeping near its right 
bank to turn some crevasses. The 
last part is up a rather steep snow- 
slope, at the bottom of which is a 



bergschrund. From the summit of 
the pass, reached in about 3| hrs. 
from Bonneval, the Ciamarella and 
Albaron are the most conspicuous 
peaks.' (For the ascent of these two 
peaks, and of the Chalanson, from 
this direction, see Rtes. E and F.) 
The height of the pass is 3,083 m. 
( 10, 1 15 ft. ), and there is a great cairn 
on its shaly crest. ' From the top a 
short slope of broken rock, with some 
traces of a path, leads down to the 
Sea glacier. The upper portion of this 
is easy, but after 20 min. the descent 
becomes somewhat difficult. We took 
to the moraine on the left bank to 
avoid the upper icefall ; after 10 
min. we returned to the ice, and left 
it again after 20 min. more for the 
rocks on the left bank, to clear the 
lower icefall, returning once again to 
the ice after \ hr. The final descent 
was by a steep snow slope. Below 
the glacier we descended rough stone 
slopes and rocks, scrambled down by 
a small cascade, crossed more stony 
slopes, and ascending coarse turf on 
the left bank of the torrent came to an 
empty chalet. The track here as- 
cended slightly till we came out on a 
sort of bluff ; after a little searching 
a sheep track was found to lead by 
some steep rocks to the level of the 
valley, and to the Sea chalets.' 
(T. G. B., 1864.) (Mr. Nichols, in 
1866, hit on the true course on the 
rocks above the end of the glacier, 
by noticing some stones built up into 
a step or wall on the N. side of the 
glacier near its foot. ) The Piatou and 
Gias nuovo huts are passed between 
leaving the glacier (if hr. from the 
pass) and the Sea chalets, 1,854 
m., 6,083 ft- i l hr.), in a green 
basin. A stony path (said to be 
now a mule path) leads from the Sea 
chalets at first along the right bank 
of the torrent, then along the left 
bank, through very fine scenery and a 
savage gorge, to Forno in I J hr. 

2. By the Col de Girard ( 7J hrs. ) — 
The same track as for the Col de Sea 
is followed from Bonneval, but should 
not be quitted, as for that Col. The 



ROUTE G. BONNEVAL TO FORNO AND LANZO 267 



mule path continues along the left 
bank of the Arc till it crosses ( 1 hr. ) 
by a bridge just under the poor 
hamlet of VEcot. The path then 
runs along the pasture valley to the 
chalets of Dnis (J hr. ), where the 
Arc is crossed once more, and grassy 
slopes, stones, and moraine are 
mounted in an E. direction to the 
right edge of the Source de VArc glacier 
flj hr. ). \\ hr. or less suffices to 
traverse this nearly level glacier to 
the pass (3,044 m., 9,987 ft.), which 
is the left-hand one of two notches 
divided by a rocky tooth. Besides 
the view of the Levanna and the 
Mont Pourri, there is a fine prospect 
over the Val Grande and the Pied- 
montese plains as far as Turin itself. 

[From the Col, or on the way to it, 
it is easy to climb in 1 J-2 hrs. either 
the Central Levanna (3,640 m., 
11,943 ft.) by its S.W. face, or the 
Eastern Levanna (3,564 m., 11,693 
ft. ) by its N. W. ridge or W. face. 3 

A little to the N.E. of the Col is a 
Cairn (near which there are traces of 
an old path which is believed to have 
crossed this pass in olden days), 
whence the descent can be made by a 
rocky ridge, on the N.E. of the steep 
snow gully or slope called the 
8 Talancia,' which leads direct from the 
lowest depression. This gully is the 
shortest way when there is no ice, or 
the snow is not too hard, in which case 
the rocks can be used. At the foot of 
the 1 Talancia ' it is necessary to keep 
along the left bank of a ravine, 
to follow a course parallel to the main 
ridge, and then to bear to the left over 
a series of rock-strewn knolls to the 
Gran Plan and Gias Milon huts. 
Below the latter is a small grassy 
plain, on which the path coming on 
the right from the Gura Club hut 
joins the direct route from the pass. 

[This hut (2,230m., 7,316 ft.) is 
near the Bra??iafan torrent, and is 
useful for parties bound to the Col, to 
the E. Levanna, or to any of the 
peaks and passes between the Punta 
Francesetti and the Col de Girard. 
To gain it from the Col the traveller 



must bend to the right from above the 
Grand Pian huts, and cross the tor- 
rent from the Martellot glacier. The 
hut may be gained in 2 hrs. from 
Forno direct. ] 

The track crosses to the right bank 
of the Gura stream, and descends 
along it till close to Forno it passes 
to the other bank, Forno being 
reached in 2 \- 3 hrs. from the pass. 
Shortly before attaining Forno the 
Lose torrent, from the Levanna glacier, 
on the N.W., joins the main stream, 
and by that glacier and glen it is 
possible to descend from the E. 
Levanna down its E. face to Forno 
direct in 4J hrs. 

A party mounting from Forno to 
the Col de Girard should be careful to 
take first the /<?/?-hand one of the two 
glens at the junction of the Lose tor- 
rent, and later, on the little plain, to 
take the right -hand path, if bound 
for the Col and not the Club hut. 

Forno (often called Forno- Alpi- 
Graie, to distinguish it from other 
places of the same or similar names), 
1,226 m., 4,022 ft., is a little village 
prettily situated amidst green fields, 
but containing, perhaps, the very worst 
inn in the Alps. The head of the Val 
Grande seen hence is an amphitheatre, 
surrounded by very steep crags, 
streaked with snow, and seemingly 
inaccessible. The Gura glen, to the 
N.W. , is well seen, but the far longer 
and important, though narrow one of 
Sea, on the S.W., remains hidden. 
At the entrance of the Sea glen, and 
J hr. from Forno, is the Sanctuary of 
the Madonna del Forno (1,332 m,, 
4,370 ft. ) It commands a noble view 
of the wall of rock and glacier which 
encloses the head of the valley, and is 
placed in the midst of a grove of fine 
beech, sycamore, and ash trees, spared 
by the woodcutter's axe, which has 
otherwise so devastated the valley. 

The upper part of the Val Grande 
has frequently suffered from formid- 
able landslips, similar in their nature 
and cause to that of the Rossberg in 
Switzerland in 1806. There was a 
I terrible fall of this kind from a cliff 



268 GRAIAN ALPS. § 13. 



LEVANNA DISTRICT 



N. of Forno in 1640, and there is still 
danger of such falls after prolonged 
rain. A frightful fall took place in 
the Val Grande on June 2, 1789, and 
is described in the ' Memoires ' of the 
Academy of Sciences of Turin by 
Count Amadee de Ponsillon ; a full 
abstract of this paper is given in 
Count Louis Mezzenile's 1823 book. 

Forno is 17^ m. by carriage road 
from Lanzo, the road running along 
the left bank of the Stura. 2 m. below 
Forno is Groscavallo, the chief village 
of the Val Grande. The high snowy 
range enclosing the valley is very well 
seen hence, and contrasts finely with 
the green pastures of the foreground. 
Walnut trees grow here, and extend 
even as far as Forno. At Bonzo, 
2\ m. lower down, the mountains open 
out, but the snowy summits are still 
seen for a little while after passing 
Chialamberto, 6§ m. from Forno. Be- 
tween Groscavallo and Ceres the 
valley descends very gently between 
richly-wooded slopes. Many scat- 
tered hamlets are passed, and others 
are seen half concealed amidst the 
rich vegetation. Just below Chia- 
lamberto is a magnificent group of 
chestnuts, which forms part of the 
commune of Vonzo, a village perched 
high up on the left on the mountain 
slope, whereon two earth pillars, 
capped by great stones, are visible. 
Cantoira, 1 m. below Chialamberto, 
is beneath the curious Sanctuary of 
Santa Cristina (described in Rte. E), 
and then the road passes opposite 
Ceres, joining that from the Val d'Ala 
(Rte. E) just as the latter has made a 
steep descent from Ceres, and tra- 
versed the Stura di Val Grande by 
the bridge of Mesckie, about 10 m. 
from Forno and 7J m. from Lanzo. 

Although, for practical reasons, it 
has been found convenient in these 
pages to describe the Stura di Val 
Grande as uniting with the two other 
branches of that river, it should be 
borne in mind that the Val Grande 
branch is usually reckoned as the 
main stream, into which flow those 
from the Ala and Viu valleys. 



Route H. 

VAL GRANDE TO THE ORCO 
VALLEY. 

In order to complete the account 
of the Val Grande given in the last 
Rte. it seems most convenient to 
insert here a short notice of the prin- 
cipal passes which lead thence over 
to the Oreo Valley (§ 15. Rte. I), as 
in Rte. D. above, we described those 
giving access to the Val d'Ala on the 
S. 

1. Colle della Piccola. — This is the 
westernmost of the passes over the 
range separating the two valleys. 
It leads over in 7 hrs. from Forno to 
Ceresole, and there would seem to be 
a mule path for the greater part, if 
not the whole, of the way. The track 
mounts over the pastures due N. of 
Forno, and then bears N.W. to the 
Col (2,705 m., 8,875 ft-) (It can be 
reached in 3 hrs. from the Gura Club 
hut by way of the Col de Fea, across 
the ridge between the Gura and Lose 
glens : see last Rte. ) The descent is 
made in a slightly N.E. direction by 
the Dres glen and lake. 

2. Colle della Crocetla. — This pass 
leads in 7-8 hrs. from Groscavallo 
to Ceresole, and is traversed through- 
out by a mule path. The track from 
Groscavallo runs up the right bank of 
the Vercellina glen, the last bit of the 
ascent being made in a N.W. direc- 
tion along ledges which produce 
Senecio uniflorus and other rare 
plants. The pass (2,636 m. , 8,649 ft- ) 
is a narrow opening in a shattered 
ridge, and is marked by a solid and 
unusually massive pillar, wherein a 
small iron cross is fixed. There is a 
fine view thence of the ranges of the 
Levanna and of the Grand Paradis. 
The descent on the other side turns 
N.W. at the Piano del Alorti, and 
later passes through a larch wood. 
There is a short cut from the foot of 
the final slope direct to this wood. 

3. Colle d^Unghiasse. — This pass 



ROUTE H. VAL GRANDE 



TO THE ORCO VALLEY 269 



(2,697 m -> 8,849 ft.) affords a direct 
route from Bonzo to Noasca (8 hrs. ), 
but is here noticed, as on the way the 
ascent of the splendid view-point of the 
Ballagarda (2,939m., 9,643 ft. ), to its 
N.W., may be made, and Ceresole 
reached over the ridge to the W. 

4. Colle della Coppa. — By this pass 
(2,567 m., 8,422 ft.) a traveller may 
go in 8 hrs. from Chialamberto to the 
Oreo valley some way below Noasca. 
On the way there is passed on the E. 
the Colle della Fore a (2,458 m., 
8,064 ft- )•> by which Locana may be 
gained direct in 7 hrs. from Chialam- 
berto through the Cambrelle glen. 

5. Colli del Boiret, della Paglia, 
and di Praforito. — These three easy 
passes give access to the Cambrelle 
glen, just mentioned, and so to Locana 
in 6-7 hrs. (the two former from 
Chialamberto, the latter from Can- 
toira. ) The Boiret ( 2 , 3 1 7 m. , 7 , 602 ft. ) 
is traversed by a mule path, and is 
extremely easy, but it is an hour 
longer than the more frequented foot 
track over the Paglia (2,149 m -> 
7,051 ft.), whence too the belvedere 
of the Uja Bellavarda (2,345 m., 
7,694 ft.), on the S., is easily reached 
in J hr. The Praforito (2,100 m., 
6,890 ft.) is also much frequented by 
the country folk, and in the early 
summer the flora on the N. slope is 
very remarkable. 

Rather to the E. of the last-named 
pass is the Colle di Pierascritta 
(2,082 m., 6,831 ft.), also leading, 
in 7 hrs. , from Cantoira to Locana ; 
it bears no name on the Italian map, 
which gives its proper name to a 
pass to the E. that really leads 
from the Tesso valley (Rte. B) to 
Locana, and is properly called Colle 
di Pian Chiro7iio (2, 155 m. , 7,071 ft. ) 



Route I. 

BONNEVAL TO CERESOLE BY THE 
COL DU CARRO. 

Looked at from the Italian side, 
the Levanna presents a salient angle, 
projecting to the E. from the main 
chain of the Alps, somewhat in the 
same manner as Monte Viso. The 
head of the valley of the Arc drains 
the Savoyard side of this range, N. W. 
of which, at the very head of that 
valley, is a wide and well-marked 
depression, limited to the W. by the 
mass of the Aiguille Rousse, to be 
described in the next Rte. This 
forms the Col du Carro (7J-8 hrs.), an 
easy glacier pass, and one very conve- 
nient to the mountaineer bound from 
the Arc valley to the Grand Paradis 
group. It really leads over to the 
very head of the Oreo valley, but it 
must be remembered that the older 
geographers did not grasp the true 
character of the upper Arc valley, as 
the Stura was believed to flow direct 
from the Iseran group. 

After crossing the bridge at Bonne- 
val to the left bank of the Arc the 
mule path (as indicated in Rte. G) 
runs along that bank for some dis- 
tance. Opposite is one of the most 
striking scenes of ruin to be seen in 
the Alps. A tract covered with huge 
broken rocks, called the Clapier de 
Fodan, marks the site of a bergfall 
which is believed to have overwhelmed 
the original village of Bonneval. It 
is said that bits of rude masonry may 
still be traced beneath some of the 
blocks. In about 1 hr. from Bonne- 
val the Arc is recrossed to its right 
bank. The bridge stands just below 
the poor hamlet of L'Ecot (2,046 m., 
6,713 ft.), the highest village, in- 
habited all the year round, not only 
in the Maurienne or in Savoy, but in 
the whole of France. Yet a little 
rye is grown here. The village is 
built among stranded boulders and 



270 GRAIAN ALPS. § 13. 



LEVANNA DISTRICT 



magnificent domes of ice-worn rocks. 
The path continues by the side of the 
Arc to the chalets of Duz's, 2,161 m., 
7,090 ft. (f hr. ), in a hollow where 
the routes to the Col de Girard 
(Rte. G) and to the Col du Boaquetin 
(Rte. K) branch off to the E. and 
N. respectively. The track towards 
the Col du Carro mounts N. up 
grassy slopes, whence a view is gained 
of the Source of the Arc, on the E., 
to the Lechans huts (20 min. ), where 
the Col du Bouquetin route branches 
off. Thence a slightly N.E. direc- 
tion must be kept over glacier-polished 
rocks and snow slopes to the summit 
of the Col, 3, 140 m., 10,302 ft. (2 hrs. 
from Lechans, or about 4 hrs. from 
Bonneval. ) The pass is a long 
rounded ridge, whence there is a 
striking, if limited, view of the neigh- 
bouring peaks, improved by ascend- 
ing to a point about 200 ft. above the 
Col, or still more by pushing on 
in 2 hrs. to the summit of the Western 
Levanna (3,607 m., 11,835 ft.), which 
is best taken direct from Bonneval, a 
traverse across snow and rocks lead- 
ing from its foot to the Col. 

Snow or ice slopes (according to 
the season) of somewhat alarming 
steepness descend on the Italian side. 
But by the aid of some steps and a 
ridge of rocks the descent to the 
more level bit of the Carro glacier 
may be effected in \ hr. or so, and 
the glacier quitted on its right bank 
in \ hr. more. 

[If, however, it is desired to tra- 
verse round to the Col de la Galise 
or to the Col de Nivolet, the traveller 
should make for the moraine on the 
left bank of the Carro glacier, and 
then work round by snow, rocks, and 
grass in a N. direction to the Rocce 
huts and lake (f hr. ), at the foot of 
the N.E. spur of the Cime d'Oin. 
Thence a stony path leads round a 
corner to the fine Cerru lake (f hr.) 
Here the way to the Galise turns due 
W. (§ 14. Rte. B), but for the Nivo- 
let a further traverse past the outlet 
of the considerable Agnel lake is re- 
quired in order to gain (50 min.) the 



mule path about 40 min. below that 
pass. J 

A party bound for Ceresole must, 
after quitting the Carro glacier on its 
right bank, traverse round to the 
right nearly at a level over stones and 
across a great broad gully to the high- 
est pastures, the Center a huts on 
which are attained in J- hr. from the 
glacier. Thence a path leads down 
to the level of the Oreo valley (J- hr. ), 
20 min. above the village of Chiapili 
di soflra, where the Col de Nivolet 
mule path (§ 15. Rte. I) is joined, 
the inns at Ceresole being reached in 
2 hrs. more (3^-4 hrs. from the Col). 

The Col du Carro is particularly 
useful for parties obliged to make a 
forced march. It may therefore be 
convenient to note that the present 
writer ( W. A. B. C. ) has covered the 
distance from Bonneval to Degioz, in 
Val Savaranche, by the Carro and 
the Nivolet in just over 12 hrs.' walk- 
ing, and has reached Lanslebourg 
from Ceresole by the Carro in 1 1^ hrs. , 
the journey from Ceresole to Bonne- 
val taking just under 8 hrs.' walking. 



Route K. 

BONNEVAL TO VAL D'lSERE BY 
THE COL DU BOUQUETIN. 

In the Introduction to this Chapter, 
as well as in the ' History of the 
Mont Iseran' (§ 12. Rte. B), atten- 
tion was drawn to the very important 
topographical importance of the 
mountain group which rises between 
the Col dTseran, the Col du Carro, 
and the Col de la Galise. In § 12. 
Rte. B. the W. half of this mass was 
described, and an account given of 
the lofty impostor which was long 
believed to crown it. In the present 
Rte. it is intended to describe the E. 
half of the group, as well as the sum- 
mit in which the whole group actually 
culminates. This is the Grande 



ROUTE K. BONNEVAL TO VAL D'ISERE 



271 



Aiguille Rousse ( 3 , 482 m. , 11, 424 ft. ), 

rising near its E. extremity, and first 
climbed in 1878 by M. E. Rochat. 
But it is to M. Henri Ferrand that 
we owe the first exploration (in 1877) 
of this part of the group, and for fur- 
ther details than space allows us to 
give here reference should be made to 
his classical paper ' La Cirne d'Oin,' 
originally published in the 1 5th vol. 
(1888) of the e Annuaire du Club Alpin 
Francais,' and reprinted in his book 
* La Frontiere Franco- Italienne 3 
{1894), which has been already men- 
tioned several times in these pages. 
The E. bit of this group may be said 
to extend from the Col du Montet, E. 
{not W., as shown on the French 
map) of the Roche Noire, to the Col 
du Bouquetin, just W. of the snow 
hump (3,310m., 10,860 ft.) which 
marks the actual point of junction of 
the great mountain mass between the 
Maurienne and the Tarentaise with 
the watershed ridge running from 
the Col du Carro to the Col de la 
Galise. On the S. side of this group 
there are only patches of snow, but 
no glacier. On its N. slope, how- 
ever, there is a considerable glacier, 
which covers the whole of that slope, 
is divided at its upper end into two 
bays by the N. spur of the Grande 
Aiguille Rousse, and, while sending 
its principal stream in a N.W. direc- 
tion towards the Isere valley, whence 
the Isere issues from it, continues 
along the W. slope of the watershed 
till it joins the Galise glacier. The 
French map gives the name of Glacier . 
du Col de la Vache to this extensive 
glacier, but it is also known by the 
far more appropriate name of Glacier 
des Sources de P Isere, which will be 
adopted in these pages. 

There are at least three points at 
which this group may be crossed 
from N. to S. Furthest to the W. is 
the Col du Montet, by which 3 hrs. 
or so are required from the chalets of 
Duis (if hr. from Bonneval) to the 
Col de la Galise ; the Roche Noire, 
3,301 m., 10,831 ft., on the W., may 
be climbed in 20 min. from the Col) ; 



and next comes the direct passage over 
the Petite Aiguille Rousse, 3,434 m., 
11,267 ft- (best gained along the 
ridge in 20 min. from the Grande 
Aiguille), the descent in both cases 
lying for the first portion down the 
W. bay of the great glacier already 
mentioned. 

The third manner of crossing the 
group is topographically the most im- 
portant, and by far the most interesting 
— theColduBouquetin(7jhrs.). This 
pass is reached without any difficulty 
from the Duis chalets in 2f hrs. by 
grass, stones, the gap between the 
Grande Aiguille Rousse and the 
Aiguille de Gontiere, and a conspicu- 
ous snow couloir. Its height is about 
3,300 m. (10,827 ft.) To the E. 
there is the snowy hump (3,310 m., 
10,860 ft. ), only a few feet higher than 
the Col, which marks the point of 
junction of the group with the water- 
shed, but to the W. rises the monarch 
of the entire group between the Cols 
dTseran, de la Galise, and de Bou- 
quetin— the Grande Aiguille Rousse 
(3,482 m., 11,424 ft.) No one cross- 
ing the pass on a fine day should 
omit to climb this summit, easily 
gained in f hr. by the N. E. ridge ; it 
may also be attained in 5 hrs. by its 
S.W. slope from Bonneval direct, or 
in 1 hr. by climbing up the entire 
length of its N. ridge. The view 
from the top is most extensive, and 
this point, as yet but little known, 
ranks as one of the finest belvederes 
in the Central Graian chain. 

Hence the frontier ridge as far as 
the Col de la Galise may be well 
studied. It consists of an easy rock 
and snow ridge which alternately de- 
scends to form depressions or passes, 
and rises to form small peaks, there 
being 312 m. (1,024 ft.) fall from 
the snowy hump to the Col de la 
Galise. The first depression is the 
Col dOin (3,230 m., 10,598 ft.), 
whence an easy glacier (around the 
rocky point, wholly in Italy, which 
the Italian maps name Cima d'Oin, 
3,184 m., 10,447 ft.) leads down in 
rather over 1 hr. to the route of the 



GRAIAN ALPS. § 13. LEV ANN A DISTRICT 



Col du Carro (Rte. I), below the 
Carro glacier. The ridge then rises 
in a blunt, shaly summit, the true 
CtmecTOin (3,277 m., 10,752 ft.), 
though called Cime de la Vache by 
both maps ; it is easily attained in 
•| hr. either from the N. or the S.W. 
Next comes a slight and unnamed 
depression, beyond which is the true 
Cime de la Vache (3,189 m., 
10,463 ft.), the Col de la Vache, and 
the Col de la Louza (both variations 
of the Col de la Galise : see § 14. 
Rte. B), and the rocky humps of the 
Point es du Grand Cocor (3,019 m., 
9,905 ft.), immediately below which 
on the N. is the Col de la Galise. 

As the direct descent from the Col 
du Bouquetin is a steep snow slope it is 
more convenient to follow the snowy 
frontier ridge for a short way before 
descending on to the perfectly easy 
E. bay of the Glacier des Sources de 
Pise re. It is a short hour from the 
Col along the W. side of the frontier 
ridge to the Col de la Galise. But it 
is better for a party bound to Val 
dTsere to bear slightly to the N.W. 
on the descent, so as to gain the 
moraine on the right bank of the 
great tongue of ice sent by that 
glacier towards the Isere valley (40 
min. ), down which and grass slopes, 
past the Sources of the Isere, the 
Galise route is joined in the Prarion 
basin of the upper Isere valley (f hr. ), 
above the great gorge of Malpasset, 
about ij hr. from Val dTsere. 

Travellers bound from Bonneval to 
the Col de Nivolet may vary the way 
described in Rte. I over the Col du 
Carro by taking the Bouquetin and 
Vache passes to the Cerru lake : this 
route allows of the ascent of the 
Grande Aiguille Rousse, but is de- 
cidedly longer than that by the 
Carro. 



SECTION 14. 

SASSIERE DISTRICT. 
{CENTRAL GRAIANS. II.) 

The main ridge of the Graian Alps 
runs from the Col du Carro in a 
slightly N.W. direction, and takes a 
due W. direction between the Pointe 
de la Galise and the Tsanteleina, N. 
of which it extends due N. to the 
Pass of the Little St. Bernard. The 
highest independent summits on it 
are the neighbouring peaks of the 
Aiguille de la Grande Sassiere 
(3,756 m., 12,323 ft.) and the 
Tsanteleina (3,606 m., 11,831 ft.), 
the other points on the divide being 
considerably lower. On the W. the 
slope towards the Isere valley is 
broken by a few short glens only, 
that of La Sassiere de Ste. Foy, 
opening nearly due E. of the village 
of Ste. Foy, being by far the most 
extensive and fertile. The topo- 
graphy of the E. slope of this portion 
of the Central Graians is, however, 
much more complicated, for two 
narrow, though lengthy, valleys de- 
scend from it towards the valley of 
the Dora Baltea. Both run roughly 
i N. and S., and are parallel to the 
! Val Savaranche on the E., which 
divides them from the Eastern 
Graians. The more easterly of these 
two valleys is the Val de Rhemes, 
j which, turning at the last rather to 
the N.E., joins the Val Savaranche 
just before their united streams are 
poured into the Dora Baltea at 
Villeneuve. The more westerly is 
the Val G-risanche, which is also 
bent aside from its direct course as it 
approaches the valley of the Dora 
Baltea, which it joins at Liverogne, 
a little higher up that valley than 
Villeneuve. These two valleys are 
separated by a long and lofty ridge, 
which originates at the Pointe de la 
TraversUre (3,341m., 1 o, 96 1 ft. ) and 
attains the height of 3,608 m. 
(11,838 ft.) in the splendid rock 



ROUTE A. EXCURSIONS, ETC., FROM VAL DTSERE 273 



peak of the Bee de PInvergtian, N. 
and S. of which easy passes give 
access from one valley to the other. 
The E. boundary of the Val de 
Rhemes is the ridge starting from the 
Pointe de la Galise, and culminating 
in the Cima delV Auille (3,446 m., 
11,306 ft.), which is most con- 
veniently described in the next Sec- 
tion, Rte. I. Far more important 
than the last-named ridge is that 
which separates the Val Grisanche 
from the road across the Little St. 
Bernard. Indeed, it mainly consists 
of the great glacier-clad mass of the 
Rutor (highest point 3,486 m. , 
11,438 ft.), which, by comparison 
with the peaked forms of the neigh- 
bouring Alps, may be called a 
plateau. This extensive mass is 
visible from Aosta itself, but is best 
approached from the Val Grisanche, 
Ste. Foy, in the Isere valley, or La 
Thuille, on the Little St. Bernard 
road, its main outlet being through a 
glen descending direct to the latter 
village. W. of the Rutor group is a 
short but tangled ridge, across which 
lead many passes, but they are 
very little known as yet, and this 
region, like the group just N.W. of 
the Little St. Bernard road, is all 
but unknown to travellers — a sur- 
prising fact in these days when the 
Alps are (most erroneously) sup- 
posed to have been so thoroughly 
examined and explored that nothing 
new remains to be done therein. 

Val d' Isere and Ste. Foy are the 
best headquarters on the French 
side ; on the Italian slope there is 
the little mountain inn at Fornet, at 
the head of the Val Grisanche, and 
the Club hut at the N. end of the 
Rutor group, but the Val de Rhemes, 
one of the most striking valleys in 
the Western Alps, can supply only 
the roughest accommodation. 

Besides Joanne, Signori Vaccarone 
and Bobba's ' Guida,' and M. 
Ferrand's book, all mentioned in the 
Introduction to this Chapter, two 
articles by Signor Bobba may be 
specially mentioned, as they are in 
I. 



the strictest and best sense mono- 
graphs : they deal with the Val de 
Rhemes and Val Grisanche, and the 
ridges which enclose them, and ap- 
peared in the ' Boliettino 5 of the 
Italian Alpine Club for 1889 and 
1890 respectively. 



Route A. 

EXCURSIONS AND ASCENTS FROM 
VAL DTSERE. 

It was pointed out in § 12. Rte.. 
B, that the village of Val dTsere is 
now the best headquarters for a 
mountaineer in the upper valley of 
the Isere. Hence it seems convenient 
to gather into one Rte. some informa- 
tion, otherwise scattered through 
several, as to the chief climbs to be 
made from this centre. 

Val d'Isere, 1,849 m -? 6,066 ft. 
(formerly called La Val de Tignes), 
is the highest church-village in the 
Isere valley, though there are a few 
hamlets higher up that valley. It 
stands in the midst of a small plain 
or basin, which is unexpectedly 
fertile, as the height is here so con- 
siderable, and at the meeting point 
of the broad Calabourdane glen on 
the S. with the main valley. The 
slopes W. of the village are covered 
with forests, but the mountain spurs 
on either side rise so steeply as to 
hide most of the neighbouring peaks 
from the village itself. The Pointe 
de la Galise f far to the E., with the 
Pointe de Bazel (3,446 m., 11,306 ft.) 
and the Cime de Quart Dessus 
(3>474 m., 11,398 ft.),' both on the 
N.E., are the only snowy summits 
visible, but the Mont Iseran, on the 
S.E., and the lower point of the 
Rockers de Franc het, on the N.W. , 
also command the village. The 
striking Dome de Val d'Isere is seen 
by going a short distance on the road 
towards Tignes, while the Tsante- 

T 



274 



GRAIAN ALPS. § 14. SASSIERE DISTRICT 



leina, the principal peak in these 
parts, comes into sight at Fornet, 
hr. 's walk up the valley. 
1. Excursions — Perhaps the pretti- 
est excursion near Val d'Isere, round 
which the scenery 7 is otherwise strictly 
Alpine, is to the splendid pastures* of 
the Grand Pra, on the N.W. of the 
village. A path leads through the 
fine forest from the hamlet of Le 
Crey up the Combe de la Thouviere 
to a stone hut at the point where it 
splits into two arms (ijhr. ) By 
following the path to the N.W. the 
grassy Pas de la Thouviere is gained 
in \ hr. , and \ hr. more suffices to 
descend to the borders of the beauti- 
fully situated Lac de Tignes ; the 
return to Val d'Isere may be made 
via Tignes. But an even more 
lovely walk than this excursion is to 
keep S. from the stone hut over gently 
inclined pastures which above form a 
sort of grassy plateau (f hr. ) It is 
easy to mount W. in J hr. to the 
Col de Fresse, opposite the Grande 
Motte and near the Col de la 
Leisse, whence in 2§ hrs. the highest 
or S. point of the Rockers de Genepy 
(3,157 m., 10,358 ft.) maybe reached 
by the easy ridge in 2^ hrs. , and the 
return to Val d'Isere made in as much 
more by way of the Charvet glen, on 
the E. But a traveller who does not 
desire to make so long an excursion 
should content himself with mounting 
in 1 hr. or so from the grassy plateau 
(which may be called the Col die 
Grand Pra) to the summit of the 
Rockers de Bellavarde (2,833 m -> 
9,295 ft.), on the E. , whence there is 
a fine view. The direct route from 
the Col to Val d'Isere (i§ hr. ) is by 
the Santon glen, but should time 
permit the traveller would do well to 
push on from the Col to the S., 
always over pastures at the head of 
that glen, to the ridge {Col du 
Charvet) between the lower Rocher 
de Genepy and the Roc du Charvet, 
2,860 m., 9,384 ft. (either easily 
accessible hence), and join the track 
from the Col de la Rocheure (§ 12. 
Rte. K. 2) in the Charvet glen. 



I N.E. of Val d'Isere there is 
another comparatively low group, 
which deserves a visit from travellers 
who do not propose to ascend one of 
the higher peaks in the neighbour- 
hood. This may be called the 
I Bailletta group from its culminating 
point. The pieasantest way of 
! exploring it from Val d'Isere is to 
! make the round by the Cols du D6m* 
I and de la Bailletta. To gain the 
former a steep and stony ascent must 
be made from near Le Crey in a 
N.E. direction, by which a great 
cairn, with a pole, above the lower 
slopes, is attained in under 2 hrs. 
from the village. Hence, by bearing 
far to the N.W., the lower or W. 
summit (2,818 m., 9,246 ft.) of the 
Rochers de Franchet, the grand rock 
tooth which dominates the basin of 
Tignes, may be reached in if hr. But 
to gain the Col du D6?ne (2,800 m. , 
9,187 ft.) a good \ hr.'s ascent from 
the cairn towards the N. is required, 
and thence the higher or E. summit 
(2,878 m., 9,443 ft.) of the Rochers 
de Franc het can be reached without 
difficulty by its N.E. slopes. 

[On the way between the cairn and 
j the Col a great gully, filled with 
rolling stones, is seen on the right. 
This gives access (1 hr. from the 
cairn) to the rocky depression — Col 
du Front — between the Pointe du 
' Front (2,964 m., 9,725 ft.) and the 
Dome de Val d'Isere (3,033 m., 
9,951 ft.) The last-named peak, 
which from afar resembles a paper 
knife set on end, may from this point 
be ascended in under 1 hr. by way of 
the S.W. ridge. The climb offers 
I no difficulties, despite appearances, 
and the excursion up this bold little 
tooth is strongly recommended to 
any climber having an off day at Val 
d'Isere. The return to that village 
from the Col du Front, the E. slope 
of which is rather stony, may be 
effected in ij- hr.] 

From the Col du Dome the 
traveller has only to mount leisurely 
for § hr. over gentle stone slopes 
in order to attain the Pointe de 



ROUTE A. EXCURSIONS, ETC., FROM VAL DTSERE 275 



Picheru (2,957 m., 9,702 ft.), one 
of the most splendid belvederes in 
the district. The view includes all 
the surrounding peaks, the Dome 
towering up very finely, and extends 
to the Charbonel, the Ciamarella, 
and Belledonne, near Grenoble. (It 
is easy to descend hence in 1 hr. 
in a S.W. direction to the hamlet of 
Franchet, which is \ hr. from the 
high road between Tignes and Val 
dTsere.) The proper descent from 
the Col du Dome leads in \ hr. to 
the Sassiere lake, on the Col de la j 
Goletta route (Rte. C. below). But 1 
it is worth while to prolong the | 
excursion by keeping high up along ! 
the slopes to the S. , in order to gain 
the Col de la Bailletta, 2,855 m., 
9,367 ft. (1 hr. ) The Point e de la 
Bailletta, 3,060 m., 10,040 ft., just 
to the W. , may be reached hence in 
-i-hr., or more directly (for a party 
coming from the Col du Dome) by 
way of its N.W. spur (f hr. ) The 
view from the summit is fine, but is 
excelled by that from the Picheru, as 
the Bailletta is too close under the 
great mass of the Tsanteleina. From 
the Col de la Bailletta a very rough 
and steep descent leads down in 
about 1 hr. to the hamlet of Fornet, 
I hr. above Val dTsere. The 
entire round from Val d'Isere 
and back by these two passes can, 
therefore, be made in 5 hrs., so that 
there is plenty of time to climb one 
or other of the peaks mentioned in 
the course of an easy half-day's ex- 
cursion. Travellers are warned 
against crossing either pass as a short 
cut to the Col de la Goletta route, 
the true short cut from Val d'Isere 
being past Franchet (see Rte. C. 
below). 

2. Ascents. — No mountaineer who 
finds himself at Val dTsere in fine 
weather should neglect to climb the 
fine peak of the Tsanteleina (3,606 
m., 11,831 ft.), N.E. of, but invisible 
from, that village. The Alpine his- 
tory of this summit is somewhat in- 
tricate and singular, and in these 
pages but a brief sketch of it can be 



given, those desiring fuller details 
being referred to M. Henri Ferrand's 
classical articles in the 16th and 17th 
vols, of the 6 Annuaire du Club Alpin 
Francais ' (reprinted in his oft-men- 
tioned book). The Sardinian map 
confuses the Tsanteleina with the 
lower Granta Parei, to the N. , both 
being seen from quite close to N. D. 
de Rhemes, though the latter nearly 
hides the former. The early ex- 
plorers of the district, starting from the 
Rhemes valley, naturally climbed the 
lower peak, under the impression that 
it was the higher, and Mr. Nichols in 
vol. ii. of the £ Alpine Journal ' has 
narrated the story of the explorations 
(1863-5) °f nis party. Finally, the 
Tsanteleina was first climbed in 1865 
by Messrs. Nichols, Blanford, and 
Rowsell in 6 hrs. from the chalets 
near the Sassiere lake, by way of the 
glacier on its S.W. slope. Unluckily 
the local name of the peak (from 
i tsante,' or ' sante,' a word meaning 
in the patois of Val dTsere and the 
Val de Rhemes a gently inclined 
slope, as opposed to a great wall, 
' granta parei ') was misunderstood as 
being ' Ste. Helene,' while the 
French map to this day calls this 
summit ' Pointe de Bazel,' its true 
name appearing only on the Italian 
map. in 1878 Mr. Coolidge, when 
making the second ascent, discovered 
a much easier route, by which the 
summit was gained by the N. slope 
in 1 J hr. from the Col de la Tsante- 
leina. But it was only in 1890 that 
M. Henri Ferrand succeeded in 
effecting the ascent by what is by far 
the best route, especially from Val 
d'Isere — namely, from the S. (4^-5 hrs. 
suffice for good walkers. ) The way 
towards the Col de la Bailletta is fol- 
lowed from Fornet, but it is necessary 
to gradually bear N.E. to the rude 
cattle pens on the Alp of Quart 
(2 hrs.) The same direction is fol- 
lowed to the glacier of that name, the 
upper portion of which is attained by 
means of the E. extremity of the band 
of rocks which separates it from the 
lower portion (ij hr. ) Gentle snow 



276 



GRAIAN ALPS. § 14. 



SASSIERE DISTRICT 



slopes lead up hence in | hr. to the 
depression at the S. foot of the final 
peak, the snow slopes gradually 
steepening till in ^ hr. more the sum- 
mit is attained. This is composed of 
a ridge of some length, the E. end of 
which is the loftier. The panorama 
from this point is one of the most 
splendid in the entire chain of the 
Graians. It is a pleasant variation 
to descend on the N. to the Col de la 
Tsanteleina, whence either Val 
d'Isere or Notre Dame de Rhemes 
can be reached by either the Col de 
la Goletta or the Col de Rhemes, or 
else Val Grisanche by the former pass 
and the Col de Bassac Dere. In 
1893 Herren Blodig and Purtscheller 
went in 4 hrs. from the top of the 
Tsanteleina to that of the Sassiere by 
way of the S.E. arete of the latter 
summit — a remarkable ' tour de 
force. ' 

The Aiguille de la Grande Sassiere 
(3,756 m., 12,323 ft.) may be as- 
cended from Val d'Isere, though 
Tignes is the better starting point. 
From Val d'Isere the path between 
Tignes and the Sales chalets may be 
reached in I J hr. by way of Franchet 
(see Rte. C. b. below), and thence the 
ordinary route followed to the summit, 
or else the S. E. arete from the Col de 
la Goletta. 

Many of the other ascents which 
may be made from Val d'Isere are 
described elsewhere — the Grande 
Motte (3,663 m., 12,018 ft.), 5-6 hrs. 
via the Col de Fresse, as also the 
Pointe de la Sana (3,450 m., 11,319 
ft. ), 5 hrs. via the Col de la Rocheure, 
in § 12. Rte. K : the Signal du Mont 
Iseran (3,241 m., 10,634 ft.), 4 hrs., 
and the Pelaou Blanc (3,136 m., 
10,289 ft.), 4 hrs., in § 12. Rte. B; 
the Grande Aiguille Rous se (3,482 

m., 11,424 ft-)> 5l nrs -> in § r 3- 
Rte. K ; the Point e de la Galise 
(3,345 m., 10,975 ft.), 4? hrs., in 
Rte. B. below, and the peaks in the 
ridge between that summit and the 
Tsanteleina in Rte. C. below, where- 
in too mention is made of the 
Grande Sassiere (3,756 m., 12,323 



ft.) and of the Granta Parei (3,473 
m., 1 1,395 ft. ) Of the ascents here 
merely referred to the Grande Motte, 
the Grande Sassiere, the Galise, the 
Grande Aiguille Rousse, and the 
Sana are particularly recommended. 



Route B. 

VAL D'ISERE TO CERESOLE BY THE 
COL DE LA GALISE. 

In the entire chain of the Alps 
between the Mediterranean and the 
Great St. Bernard there are very few 
glacier passes which are certainly 
known to have been traversed earlier 
than the Galise. It is frequently men- 
tioned on maps and by writers of the 
sixteenth, seventeenth, and eighteenth 
centuries ; it was visited between 1825 
and 1836 by Mr. Brockedon, and 
crossed in 1843 by Mr. Malkin, while 
it is at the present day often traversed 
by the country folk with flocks of 
sheep. The ancient forms of its 
name are 'Gales' and ' Cales,' 
' Galet ' and ' Galest. ' Even now it 
is to some extent a smugglers' pass, 
and offers no difficulties of any kind 
to a moderately experienced moun- 
taineer, while it affords a very direct 
route from the head of the valley of 
the Isere to that of the Oreo (7j-7f 
hrs. ) 

The Iseran char road is followed 
from Val d'Isere as far as the last 
hamlet, that of Fornet [\ hr. ), whence 
a mule track along the right bank of 
the Isere leads past the chalets of St. 
Charles, and through the striking 
though gloomy gorge of Malpasset 
(the path here crumbles away much) 
to the green pasture basin of Prarion 
(2 hrs. from Val d'Isere), one of the 
shepherds' huts in which is now (in 
part) a Club hut. Hence the Sources 
of the Isere are well seen, and here 
our way parts from that over the Col 
du Bouquetin to Bonneval (§ 13. 



ROUTE B. VAL DTSERE TO CERESOLE 



277 



Rte. K). A well-marked path runs 
hence in a N.E. direction up the 
right bank of the Niclet torrent. The 
traveller may either continue up this 
ravine and by moraine gain the nearly 
level Galise glacier, which is traversed 
to the Col, or may bear to the 
S.E. across the torrent to another 
track which mounts the grassy and 
rocky barrier to the S. of that 
glacier, and gives access to the Col 
after a few minutes only on the 
ice. In either case if-2 hrs. suffice 
to go from the Club hut to the Col 
(2,998 m., 9,836 ft.), a narrow open- 
ing marked by two wooden crosses, 
one on each side of the frontier. The 
view from the pass itself is limited to 
the mass of the Levanna, though the 
Paradis group soon comes into sight. 

[No traveller who passes here in 
fine weather should neglect to make 
the ascent of the Pointe de la Galise ! 
(3,345 m., 10,975 ft.), just to theN. of 
the Col, as it commands a most mar- 
vellous panorama, while it is the 
' Mont Iseran ' of several old maps 
(see § 12. Rte. B). The ascent is 
very easily made in about 1 hr. by 
descending the Galise glacier for a 
short distance to the foot of a well- 
marked snow gully by which the 
schistose rocky wall bounding that 
glacier to the N. is scaled, and so 
the uppermost rim of the great 
Rhbnes Glacier is gained ; thence an 
easy walk to the E. up very gentle 
snow slopes leads to the mound 
which forms the summit. As this 
point rises at the junction of three 
important ridges, surpasses in height 
all its near neighbours, and juts 
out towards Italy, it occupies a 
most favourable position, and the 
panorama from it is destined to be- 
come one of the most celebrated in 
the Alps, the peak being so easily 
accessible. Suffice it to say that the 
eye ranges from the Meije to the 
Diablerets, while both Yal dTsere 
and Ceresole are visible, as well as 
the Soches chalets, at the head of the 
Val de Rhemes. It is easy to follow 
the snowy ridge to the N. E. , and by 1 



the Basei glacier to descend to the 
Nivolet plain (§ 15. Rte. I). A far 
finer route, however, is to descend 
the W. ridge for a short way, and 
then to strike boldly in a slightly 
N.W. direction down the Lavassey 
branch of the great Rhemes Glacier, 
the moraine at the foot of which may 
be reached in about 1 hr. from the 
summit, and so the route of the Col 
de Rhemes (see next Rte. a) from Val 
d'Isere to Notre Dame de Rhemes, 
the latter village being 2| hrs. from 
the moraine. 

By steering nearly due S. from the 
Col along the W. slope of the fron- 
tier ridge it is easy to gain (ijhr. ) 
the Col du Bouquetin (§ 13. Rte. K). 
On the way the openings of the Cols 
de la Louza and de la Vache are 
passed, both variations of the Galise, 
by which one or both the Colourets 
\ may be avoided. But these obstacles 
are really not at all serious, j] 

Some steep and crumbling rocks 
lead down from the Col de la Galise in a 
few minutes to the Grand Colouret, 3. 
debris-filled couloir (whence its name), 
through which, or by means of the 
rocks on its N. edge, the little plain 
of Ballotta is attained in \ hr. from 
the Col. (A party taking the Col from 
Italy should mount by the left-hand 
one of the two arms of the Grand 
Colouret, and just below the Col 
traverse to that on the right, the 
latter itself being rather steep, though 
its N. edge is quite practicable.) 
Below this plain the earth-filled Petit 
Colouret, in which there is a path 
(while the gully itself — the difficulty 
of which has been, like that of the 
Grand Colouret, enormously exag- 
gerated — may be turned by the slopes 
on either side, that to the N. being 
the best), leads down in Jhr. more to 
the fine Cerru lake, which has been 
conspicuous ever since leaving the 
Col. 

[From the little chapel above this 
lake the mule path over the Col de 
Nivolet — § 15. Rte. I — may be gained, 
40 min. below the Col, by a traverse 
I to the N. in 50 min., while by 



278 



GRAIAN ALPS. § 14. SASSIERE DISTRICT 



another to the S. it is possible in 
hr. from the lake to reach the 
foot of the last ascent to the Col du 
Carro, § 13. Route I.J 

From the huts near the lake a 
mule path winds down to the level 
of the Oreo valley, where that coming 
from the Col de Nivolet is joined, 
and followed past Chiapili di sopra 
to Ceresole, gained in 2^-3 hrs. from 
the lake. 



Route C. 

VAL D'lSERE TO VILLENEUVE BY 
THE VAL DE RHEMES. 

There are no fewer than five prac- 
ticable passes across the snow-clad 
range which separates the Isere and 
Rhemes valleys, but the topography 
of that range is so singular that some 
account of it must be given in order 
to enable travellers to select the 
route they prefer. The strangeness 
of the position is shown by the unex- 
pected fact that the principal glacier 
on the French side does not cor- 
respond with the principal glacier on 
the Italian slope, save by a sort of 
side pass (the Col de la Tsanteleina), 
which traverses the divide from W. 
to E., instead of from S. to N., as 
the relative positions of the two val- 
leys would lead one to imagine. 
Hence we find that three small 
glaciers on the French side commu- 
nicate by easy snow passes with one 
enormous glacier on the Italian side, 
while the main French glacier flows 
from the same neve as the smallest of 
those on the Italian slope, yet re- 
ceives a branch coming directly from 
the snowy depression (Col de la 
Tsanteleina) whence descends on the 
other side one of the main branches 
of the enormous glacier on the Italian 
side. For this reason, and in order 
to clear up the great confusion of 
names which has arisen from the J 



contradictory statements of maps and 
writers, it may be convenient to pre- 
sent here in a tabular form a list of 
the chief peaks and passes between 
the Pointe de la Galise and the 
Grande Sassiere, all, save no. 11, 
being on the watershed. 

1. Col de Bassagne (3,160 m., 
10, 368 ft. ). From the Bassagne Glacier 
to the Lavassey branch of the Rhemes 
Glacier. 

2. Roc de Bassagne (3,224 m., 
10,578 ft.) 

3. Col de Calabre (3,081 m., 
10, 109 ft. ). From the Calabre Glacier 
to the Fo7ite branch of the Rhemes 
Glacier. 

4. Pointe de Calabre (3,276 m., 
10,749 ft- )• Called Roc del Fonte on 
the Italian map. 

5. Col de Rhemes (3,101 m., 
10, 174 ft. ). From the Bazel Glacier 
to the Centelina branch of the Rhemes 
Glacier. 

6. Pointe de Bazel (3,446 m., 
1 1,306 ft. ). Called Punta Calabre by 
the Italian map. 

7 . Cim ede Q nart Dessns (3,474m., 
n,398 ft.) 

8. Tsanteleina (3,606 m., 11,831 
ft. ). Called Pointe de Bazel by the 
French map. 

9. Col de la Tsanteleina (3,167m., 
10,391 ft. ). From the Sassiere Glacier 
to the Centelina branch of the Rhemes 
Glacier. 

10. Pointe de la Goletta (3,291 m., 
10,798 ft.) 

11. Grant a Parei (3,473 m., 
11,395 ft.). On a spur projecting 
N.E. from the watershed. 

12. Col de la Goletta (3,120 m., 
10,237 ft. ). From the Sassiere Glacier 
to the Goletta Glacier. 

13. Pointe de la Traversiere 
(3,341 m., 10,962 ft.) 

14. Grande Sassiere (3,756 m., 
12,323 ft.) 

Neglecting for a moment the peaks 
enumerated in this list (all accessible 
from the passes between them, and 
all, as well as the Pointe de la 
Galise (Rte. B), easily taken on the 
way from one valley to the other), it 



ROUTE C. VAL DTSERE TO VILLENEUVE 279 



will be seen that three small glaciers 
on the French side communicate, by 
means of the passes numbered 1, 3, 
and 5, with the enormous glacier 
which fills the head of the Val de 
Rhemes, and is divided into the 
Lavassey and the Fonte branches 
(separated only by an unimportant 
moraine), and the Centelina branch, 
which is raised on a rock terrace 
above the Fonte branch. On the 
other hand, the principal French 
glacier — that of Sassiere — communi- 
cates both with the Centelina branch 
of the Rhemes Glacier and with the 
Goletta glacier, the latter having no 
connection with the former, but being 
squeezed up into the S.W. corner of 
the Val de Rhemes. 

Of these five passes two may be 
dismissed briefly, as the Col de Bas- 
sagne and the Col de Calabre are really 
variations of the Col de Rhemes ; the 
former is gained by the right side of 
the Bassagne glacier and that glacier 
itself in 1 \ hr. from the point at which 
the moraine of that glacier and of the 
Galise glacier unite, while the Col de 
Calabre is accessible over the glacier 
of that name in 1 hr. from the point 
of union of its moraine with that of 
the Bazel glacier on the route of the 
Col de Rhemes. The Roc de Bas- 
sagne is easily accessible by snow 
slopes in a few minutes from the Col 
de Calabre, but the Pointe de Calabre 
is reached only from the Col de 
Rhemes. 

We have, therefore, now to describe 
the Cols de Rhemes and de la Goletta^ 
both known and traversed since at 
least the end of the seventeenth cen- 
tury, as well as the Col de la Tsante- 
leina, which connects the routes over 
those passes, yet seems only to have 
been first completely traversed as re- 
cently as 1 88 1. 

a. By the Col de Rhemes. (7-7J 
hrs. from Val dTsere to Notre Dame 
de Rhemes.) 

This is the most direct route, if the 
start be made from the village of Val 
dTsere ; but it is inferior in everyway 
to the Col de la Goletta, and will pro- 



bably be visited only by mountaineers 
wishing to climb the peaks near it. 

The way to the Col de la Galise 
(Rte. B) is followed as far as the 
entrance to the gorge of Malpasset 
( i\ hr. ), where an ill-marked track 
leads up the steep grassy and rocky 
ridge descending from the point 
marked 2,697 m - on the French map 
to ( I hr. ) the upper basin of the 
Calabre glen, which may also be 
gained direct by stony slopes. Here 
the moraines from the Calabre and 
j Bazel glaciers join. Leaving to the 
I N.E. the way to the Col de Calabre, 
; an hour's easy ascent to the N. up 
\ moraine and the small Bazel glacier 
\ brings the traveller to the Col de 
; Rhemes (3,101 m., 10,174 ft.)> a 
\ well-marked snowy depression. 
I [Hence the Pointe de Calabre 
(3,276 m., 10,749 on tne E.j can 
j be easily climbed in \ hr., or less, 
by easy broken rocks and a great 
; snow slope, up which many steps may 
! sometimes have to be cut. But a 
I finer ascent is that of the Pointe de 
Bazel (3,446 m., 11,306 ft.), on the 
I W., which takes \\ hr. by way of 
the rocky E. face. As the N.W. 
face of the latter summit consists of 
gentle snow slopes, it is easy to re- 
gain the Col by that route ; but a 
party desiring to enjoy some very 
fine snow scenery is recommended -- 
j whether or not they push on in \ hr. 
I more, to the still loftier Chne de Quart 
! Dessns (3,474 m., 11,398 ft.) — to 
j make their way over those slopes to 
I the Col de la Tsanteleina, \ hr. from 
I the Pointe de Bazel, and thence re- 
! gain Val dTsere (3 hrs.), or reach 
Notre Dame de Rhemes (3| hrs.) by 
j the Goletta route, unless they are 
j bound from the latter pass to the Val 
Grisanche over the Col de Bassac 
Dere.JJ 

From the Col easy snow slopes 
lead down to the Centelina branch of 
the great Rhemes Glacier. Thence 
a traveller may traverse in a N. 
direction the whole of that branch 
(lying beneath the precipices of the 
Granta Parei), or may bear a little to 



280 



GRAIAN ALPS. § 14. SASSIERE DISTRICT 



the N.E. so as to descend by a steep 
slope of stones at its S. end the 
rocky barrier which supports the 
Centelina glacier on its shelf above 
the Fonte branch to that branch of 
the Rhemes Glacier. There is no 
difficulty on either route, which both 
bring the traveller by the left bank of 
the main torrent in ij hr. or less to 
or below the Soches chalets, where 
the Col de la Goletta route is joined. 

b. By the Col de la Goletta (7J-8 
hrs. from Tignes or Val dTsere to 
Notre Dame de Rhemes). — The 
path from Tignes crosses the Isere 
and then mounts by the S. side 
of the fine waterfall so conspicuous 
from the village past the chalets of 
Le Villaret and Sales, and above the 
cliff passes to the right bank of the 
torrent at the entrance to the upland 
basin of Sassiere. Here are the 
Sas sieve chalets (if hr. ), where night 
quarters may be obtained by a party 
bent on the ascent of the Grande 
Sassiere. 

[If coming from Val dTsere the 
traveller should descend the high 
road towards Tignes for 40 min., 
when, at a fine spring just above the 
great zigzags of the road, a path to 
the N.E. must be taken, by which 
the hamlet of Franchet is gained in 
20 min. Hence 20 min. more suf- 
fice to join the track from Tignes to 
Sales, so that the Sassiere lake may 
be reached from Val dTsere in 2^ 
hrs.] 

Half an hour above the chalets 
is the Lac de la Sassiere (2,446 m., 
8,025 ft.), whose dull green waters 
are turbid by reason of the fine 
glacial mud held in suspension. The 
path runs along the N. side of the 
lake, with the black wall of the 
Grande Sassiere on the left, and then 
ascends slopes of alternate rock and 
Alpine pasture, the fine Sassiere 
glacier and the snowy slopes of the 
Tsanteleina gradually coming into 
view. The moraine on the right 
bank of that glacier is attained in 
\\ hr. from the lake, and then the 
gently inclined glacier is mounted 



without the slightest difficulty by its 
N. edge to the rounded snow ridge 
and broad depression of the Col de la 
Goletta, 3,120 m., 10,237 ft. (40 
min., or 4 J- 5 hrs. from the starting 
point. ) 

£If bound for the Col de la Tsante- 
leina it saves time to keep more to 
the S. on the way up, but it is also 
easy to bear E. across the Goletta 
glacier, and up the side glacier 
leading to that Col, reached in 1 hr. 
from the point at which the Goletta 
glacier is struck. A few minutes 
over snow slopes leads to the route 
of the Col de Rhemes, while from 
the former pass the Tsanteleina 
(3,606 m., 11,831 ft.) itself maybe 
climbed in \\ hr. or more, by the 
snowy N. face, the time varying 
according to the condition of the 
snow. \ hr. suffices to go from the 
Col de la Tsanteleina to the Col de 
la Goletta.] 

1 The pass is one of the finest in 
the Graian Alps, and both in its 
foreground scenery and in the extent 
and interest of its distant views may 
bear comparison with some of the 
more celebrated Cols of the Pennine 
or Bernese Oberland Alps. The 
summit of the Col is far in advance 
of the Sassiere. As we faced the 
Val de Rhemes we had upon our left 
hand tracts of snow of immense 
i extent, stretching towards the Val 
Grisancbe. On our right was the 
j Tsanteleina, and immediately in ad- 
; vance of it a most peculiar peak, the 
I Granta Parei, consisting of a tower 
of dark rock, capped by a cone of 
snow. On the Savoy side, beyond 
the Lac de Tignes, rose the graceful 
snow peak of the Grande Motte, and 
the frowning precipices of the Grande 
Casse, while on the Piedmontese side 
we looked over the Val Savaranche 
to the magnificent masses of the 
Grand Paradis and the Grivola. 
Straight down the Val de Rhemes a 
section of the Pennine chain is seen, 
of which the Grand Combin forms 
the central summit. ' ( W. M. , revised. ) 
[From the Col the Sassiere can be 



ROUTE C. VAL D'ISERE TO VILLENEUVE 281 



climbed in about 3 hrs. by way of its 
long S.E. arete. Nearer and less 
laborious is the Grant a Parei 
(3,473 m., n,395 ft.), accessible in 
I hr. by way of the steep but not 
difficult rocks of its S. face : this is a 
much easier route than that by the 
N. face and W. slope taken by the 
first party, Messrs. Nichols, Blan- 
ford, and Rowsell, in 1863, under 
the impression that they were climb- 
ing the true Tsanteleina. Should time 
not allow the ascent of any of these 
three high peaks, a party would do 
well to mount S. from the Col along 
the snowy watershed to the Pointe de 
la Goletta, 3,291 m., 10,798 ft. (20 
min. ), a very fine belvedere, just at 
the point at which the Granta Parei 
spur branches off from the main ridge. 
Another view-point in the neighbour- 
hood is the Pointe de la Traversiere 
(3,341 m., 10,962 ft.), just W. of the 
Col, and accessible thence in \ hr. 
by its rocky E. face. Thence the 
Col de Bassac Dh'e (2,984 m., 
9,790 ft.), at its N. foot, may be 
gained in 10 min. (this Col is 20 min. 
direct from the Col de la Goletta), 
and so by the great Gliairetta glacier, 
the icefall of which is turned by the 
rocks on its right bank, the Vatidet 
chalets ( i^-if hr. ), at the head of the 
Val Grisanche, if hr. above Fornet, 
the highest hamlet in that valley, de- 
scribed in Rte. E, below, j] 

The descent from the Col de la 
Goletta towards the Rhemes valley 
is not made direct down the Goletta 
glacier, as might be expected, for 
that ice stream ends in a wild gorge. 
From the Col, therefore, a N.E. 
direction must be taken to its E. 
edge, gained in J hr. not far from 
the point marked 2,840 m. on the 
Italian map, at the N. foot of the 
Granta Parei. The edge of the wall 
which falls steeply on the E. side is 
then followed for a short distance, 
when a sheep track leads down 
several terraces and along the lowest 
to the Sockes huts, 2,302 m., 
7' 553 ft- (35 mm - from the glacier.) 
(There is a longer way continuing N. 



to the point marked 2,509 m., 
and then descending direct to 
Soches. ) Here it is easy to descend 
to the S. and cross by a stone 
bridge to the right bank of the 
main stream from the great Rhemes 
Glacier, and so reach the arched 
! bridge (see below) past the Lavassey 
huts. But it is much shorter and 
more direct to go straight down to 
the N. by a zigzag mule path to a 
bridge over the Goletta stream, not 
far below the fine waterfall made by 
it in its descent from that glacier, 
and to join the Lavassey path 
(20 min. from Soches) where this 
crosses by an arched stone bridge 
the main valley stream, below the 
junction of the Rhemes and Goletta 
torrents. Henceforward the left 
bank of the valley torrent is followed. 
The chalets of Bahnaverain are 
passed (20 min.), and beyond a stony 
descent leads down to the hamlet of 
Thumel) in the level valley (20 min.) 
It is a pleasant walk of 50 min. more 
to (3 hrs. from the Col) the chief 
village in the valley, 

Notre Dame de Ehemes (1,731 m., 
5,679 ft.) This small hamlet is 
admirably situated in a green basin. 
At the head of the valley the Granta 
Parei towers up very grandly, while 
over its right shoulder from near 
the village the tip of the Tsanteleina 
can be seen. Glimpses only are 
had of the other peaks and glaciers 
at the head of the valley, but the 
amazing black precipices of the Bee 
de FInvergnan, 3,608 m., 11,838 ft. 
(see next Rte.), just S.W. of the 
village, seem to dwarf everything 
else, and afford one of the most 
glorious sights in the Alps. To the 
N. the Grand Combin is seen. 
Rough accommodation may be had 
at the cure's house or at the poor 
village inn. 

There is a mule path down the 
valley (12 m. — 3^ hrs.' walk— to 
Villeneuve) amid fine scenery, the 
peak of the Grand Combin remaining 
always in view. 7 m. from Notre 
Dame is the village of St. Georges de 



282 GRAIAN ALPS. § 14. 



SASSIERE DISTRICT 



Rhemes (1,171 m., 3,842 ft.) The 
path continues at a great height atove 
the 1. bank of the stream, and com- 
mands a fine view of Monte Rosa as 
it gains a point opposite Introd (3 m. 
from St. Georges). This village is 
built on a promontory enclosed by the 
streams from the Val Savaranche and 
the Val de Rhemes, and commands 
a fine view of Mont Blanc. The 
char road coming from Introd crosses 
the deep gorge in which the latter 
flows, and by two great zigzags joins 
the high road in the valley of Aosta 
just before this crosses the united 
"torrents of the two valleys in order to 
reach Villeneuve, 2 m. from Introd 
and 12 m. from Notre Dame, while 
it is 6 m. from Aosta (see Rte. G. 
below). 

The chestnut, the walnut, and the 
vine finally become abundant and 
luxuriant between St. Georges and 
Introd, while the way from Introd 
to Villeneuve is shaded by splendid 
chestnuts. 



Route D. 

VAL DE RHEMES TO VAL 
GRISANCHE. 

The long and rugged mountain 
chain which separates these two 
nearly parallel Alpine valleys de- 
taches itself from the main watershed 
at the Pointe de la Traversiere^ 
3,341 m., 10,962 ft., and is crowned 
by a number of striking rocky peaks 
which culminate in the superb 
summit of the Bee de rinvergnan 
(3,608m., 11,838 ft.) This range is 
traversed by several passes, but, save 
the second and fourth of those named 
below, these are all only fit for ex- 
perienced climbers. (The passes 
from the Val de Rhemes to the Val 
Savaranche on the E. are described 
in § 15. Rte. I.) 

I. Col de B as sac Deri. — This pass 
(2,984 m., 9,790 ft.) was mentioned 



in the last Rte. (under b), as it is 
best combined with the Col de la 
Goletta to form a route from the 
Isere valley to the Val Grisanche. 
If taken from the Val de Rhemes it 
may be reached not only from 
Soches by the route there described, 
but direct from the valley by a track 
above the left bank of the Goletta 
glacier, which is marked on the 
Italian map. From the Col the 
Pointe de la Traversiere (3,341 m., 
10,962 ft.), on the S., can be climbed 
in 20 min. From the point on the 
left bank of the Goletta glacier 
marked 2,857 m. on the Italian map 
the Pointe de Bassac Dere (3,355 m., 
11,008 ft.) can be gained in 1^ hr., 
or from the gap to its N. the Mont 
Bassac Sud (3,461 m. , 11,355 ft.) in 
1 hr. ; in \\ hr. more it is possible 
to climb the two more northerly 
towers of the latter peak, and attain 
the Grande Traversiere, 3,495 m., 
11,467 ft., the highest point in the 
ridge between this pass and the 
next. 

2. Col de Bassac. — This pass offers 
no difficulties whatever, and is a 
fairly direct route for a party bound 
from the Rhemes valley to the head 
of the Val Grisanche. A little 
beyond the Balmaverain chalets ( I Jhr. 
from Notre Dame) it is necessary to 
mount over grass in a N.W. direc- 
tion in order to strike a cross path 
which makes a great zigzag to the N. E. , 
so as to scale a rocky barrier. The 
way then lies due W. , and passes 
over the easy Traversiere glacier 
before gaining the pass, 3,153 m., 
10,345 ft. (2J-3 hrs. from Balma- 
verain. ) 

[The fine peak of the Grande 
Traversiere (3,495 m., 11,467 ft.), on 
the S., can be climbed without any 
trouble in hr., if care be taken to 
turn the second great rock tooth on 
the N. ridge by the glacier on the 
Rhemes side. The view hence is 
extremely fine, extending from 
Monte Rosa and Mont Blanc to the 
Dauphine Alps, so that this ascent is 
) strongly recommended.] 



ROUTE D. VAL DE RHEMES TO VAL GRISANCHE 283 



Stones, snow, and a grassy plain and 
slopes (the track is marked on the 
Italian map, keeping N. of the Bassac 
glacier) lead down to the Vaudet 
huts in rather over an hour from the 
pass, and thence it is if hr. more on 
to Fornet, the highest hamlet in Val 
Grisanche. The Col de Fos (3,302 m., 
10,834 ft), more to the N., is really 
a variation of this pass. 

3. Col de la Grande Rousse. — This 
very difficult and lofty pass (3,500 m., 
11,483 ft.) is here mentioned in 
order to warn travellers against it. 
On the Rhemes side it is reached by 
a very high and extremely steep rock 
wall, and on the Val Grisanche side 
by much step- cutting, or by the steep 
rocks on the N. rim of the Invergnan 
glacier. It was first reached (from 
the W. ) in 1864 by Mr. Nichols' 
party, who made an attempt to climb 
thence up the Invergnan (also called 
Grande Rousse) itself, being beaten 
back by a rock tower. In 1874 
Signori Martelli, Barale, and Gorret 
succeeded in vanquishing this ob- 
stacle, thus achieving the first ascent 
of this magnificent peak ; they forced 
their way down from the Col to 
Rhemes by the great rock wall, thus 
making the first passage of the Col. 
In 1875 the Misses Pigeon made the 
second passage of the Col. In 1885 
Mr. Coolidge reached the Col in 

hrs. from Fornet, and in less than 
an hour more ascended the Invergnan 
by the easy schist ridge, the great 
boulder or tower being easily turned 
on the W. side. In 55 min. the then 
snow-covered rocks of the N. ridge (it 
is best to keep a little on the W. side, 
and at the end down a debris slope on 
the E. side) were descended (Signor 
Vallino having first climbed them three 
weeks before) to the rock crest at the 
N. foot of the peak, Fornet being re- 
gained in 2 J hrs. more. The N. ridge 
is by far the best route, and Signor 
Bobba in 1888 reached it at the N. 
foot of the peak, by way of the Tor- 
rent glacier, in 4 hrs. from Notre 
Dame de Rhemes. The ascent 
thence would probably not take more 



I than 1J-2 hrs. if the rocks (not hard 
in themselves) are in good condition. 
Signor Bobba, on occasion of another 
expedition in 1888, ascended the S. 
summit (3,585 m., 11,762 ft.) of the 
Invergnan in 6^- hrs. from Notre Dame 
by way of the Fos glacier, without 

: encountering any very serious diffi- 
culties ; as it is quite easy to go from 
this point to the Col de la Grande 
Rousse a fine ' traverse ' of the 
highest summit from Notre Dame 
and back, or over to Fornet, would 
be quite possible, though no ascent 
of the Invergnan seems to have been 
recorded since that in 1888 (the 
fourth). 

4. Finestra del Torrent. — This is 
the only pass between the two val- 
leys which is at all frequented by 
the country folk. There is a mule 
path as far as the Torrent huts, 
whence a faint track, mainly on the 
right bank of a great grass or snow- 
filled gully, leads to the Col (2,847 m - 3 
9,341 ft.), the southernmost of three 
gaps (3 hrs. from Notre Dame). The 
descent on the other side to Fornet 
(1 hr. ), past the Noava huts, is per- 
fectly straightforward. By bearing 
to the right from those huts a mule 
path may be followed through a forest 
to the level of the Val Grisanche, 
about half-way between Fornet and 
the chief hamlet, Eglise. 



Route E. 

ISERE VALLEY TO LIVEROGNE BY 
THE VAL GRISANCHE. 

Many passes of varying height and 
difficulty cross the long range be- 
tween these two valleys, but, with the 
exception of the Col du Mont (to 
which the description of the valley of 
Val Grisanche is therefore attached), 
none of them is at all frequented. 
Indeed, the others will chiefly be 
visited by mountaineers, in order to 



284 GRAIAN ALPS. § 14. 



SASSlfeRE DISTRICT 



climb the peaks near them, or to 
take these on the way from one valley 
to another. 

The most direct way from Val 
d'Isere, or Tignes, to the Val Gri- 
sanche is the combination of the Cols 
de la Goletta and de Bassac Dere, 
described in Rte. C. b. for the Col de 
la Sassiere, leading from the lake of 
that name across the S.E. arete of 
the Grande Sassiere to the Gliairetta 
glacier, is more laborious than the two 
combined passes. 

I. Col du Fond. — This lofty pass 
(3,509 m., 11,513 ft.) was first 
crossed in 1876 by M. Henri Cordier, 
and traverses the range just N. of 
the Petite Sassiere (3,653 m., 11,985 
ft., of the French map, and 3,673 
m. of the Italian map). The 
proper route from the I sere val- 
ley is through the Fond or Nant 
Cruet glen, which opens out at Le 
Bioley, and that route is perfectly 
easy. But it is shorter to follow the 
route past the Revielle chalets towards 
the Grande Sassiere (§ 12. Rte. B), 
by which the pass may be gained in 
4tt hrs. from Tignes. 

£ Hence the Petite Sassiere can be 
climbed in J hr. by an easy snow 
slope. There is no difficulty what- 
ever in descending from the Grande 
Sassiere to the gap between it and the 
Petite Sassiere, and then in gaining 
the latter summit (50 min. from the 
higher peak), and reaching the Col in 
20 min. more. This would form a 
magnificent traverse for a party of good 
mountaineers, who might further from 
the Col continue N. up the Pointe 
des Pattes des Chamois ; 3,632 m., 
11,917 ft. (J hr. ), and along the ridge 
to the Becca di Suessa, 3,421 m. , 
11,224 ft- (5° min.), whence \ hr. 
suffices to gain the Col de Vaudet 
(see below), from which Fornet, in Val 
Grisanche, can be reached in 2 J hrs., 
after a most splendid high-level route, 
which would not take, under favour- 
able circumstances, more than II hrs.' 
walking. ] 

The descent from the Col du Fond 
lies over fatiguing schist slopes, the 



chalets of Vaudet being reached in 
2 hrs., and Fornet in if hr. more. 

2. Col de Vaudet. — This easy pass 
rejoices in many names. The French 
map calls it the Passage du Rocher 
Blanc, and the Italian Col de Suessa 
or de Sarrou, while another name 
used is that of Col du Clou. It is 
rarely used, and offers no special 
attractions in itself, while the neigh- 
bouring summits can be better climbed 
from other passes. There is a track 
over it. It is gained on the W. 
through the Clou or Plan glen, the 
entrance to which may be reached by 
pretty forest paths either from Le 
Bioley or from La Thuille de Ste. 
Foy. 3J hrs. from either village 
suffice to ascend to the Plan chalets, 
whence a direct ascent of \\ hr. in a 
due E. direction by gentle grass and 
stone slopes leads to the Col ( 2,836 m. , 
9,305 ft.) The Alpine pastures are 
often covered with bright flowers. 
The botanist will find here Draba 
jladnitzensis, Cardamine alpina, and 
other interesting plants. The way 
on the other side descends to an up- 
land glen, with a range of bold crags 
on the right, and a ridge of grey shale 
on the left, beyond which the edge of 
the steep rocky slopes overlooking the 
Vaudet glen is attained ( Jhr. ) It is, no 
doubt, possible to clamber down to the 
E. direct to the Sasse dePonto?i chalets, 
but the main path makes a great 
traverse towards the S.E., joining the 
path from Vaudet about 20 min. 
before reaching the Ponton chalets 
(ij hr. from the Col), and about I hr. 
from Fornet. From the Plan chalets 
it is easy to climb direct (without 
making the round by the Col du Lac 
Noir, N. of the Col de Vaudet) to the 
E. summit of the Ormelune (3 hrs.), 
whence the highest, or W. , summit 
(3,283 m., 10,771 ft.) is gained in 
I hr. more, passing over the Central 
summit. This peak is a splendid 
belvedere, and very accessible on all 
sides. (See § 12. Rte. B, for the 
descent from it to the path of the 
Col du Mont. ) 

3. Col du Mont. — A mule path, 



ROUTE E. ISERE VALLEY TO LIVEROGNE 



285 



not always well kept, traverses this 
pass, which is the regular means of 
communication between the Isere 
valley and the Val Grisanche (6 hrs.) 

Nearly due E. of Ste. Foy the 
beautiful pasture valley of the Sassiere 
de Ste. Foy joins the main valley. 
A char road leads from Ste. Foy 
over the brow of the hill to the 
hamlet of Masures, on the left bank 
of the torrent, and thence the mule 
path mounts steeply through a forest, 
at first by that bank to [\\ hr. from 
Ste. Foy) the chalets of La Crau, 
situated at the point where two arms 
of the glen unite. Leaving to the 
left the N.W. branch (described 
below and in the next Rte. ), our 
track follows the right bank of the 
torrent over splendid pastures to the 
chalets of La Motte (if- hr.), at 
the foot of the final ascent to the 
pass, which is gained in 1 hr. more 
by a last steep ascent (4 hrs. from 
Ste. Foy), having on the right the 
black precipices of the Ormelune. 

The Col (2,646 m., 8,681 ft.) is a 
narrow ridge, commanding a finely- 
contrasted view of the bare and 
rugged Val Grisanche on one side, 
and of the comparatively bright and 
fertile mountains that enclose the 
Isere on the other. The Mont Pourri, 
opposite, is very fine, while the church 
tower of Bourg St. Maurice is visible. 
The Col possesses even now consider- 
able military importance, and in the 
days of the French Revolution was 
the scene of some desperate conflicts 
between the French and the Pied- 
montese (1792- 1800). ' In May 
1794 General Moulins, who com- 
manded the former, after many efforts, 
succeeded in gaining the position by 
advancing during a snow storm, when 
such assailants were not expected, 
and retained it in spite of not less 
than ten attempts to retake it, but 
abandoned it in November 1794. 
There are some remains of fortifica- 
tions on the pass, and in 1868 the 
bones of four soldiers were found 
among the neighbouring rocks. ' (M.) 

The mule track descends by snow, 



rocks, and stones, then by zigzags, 
down a grassy ridge, crosses to the 
right bank of the torrent, and then 
reaches the level pasture valley of St. 
Grat. The stream is crossed to the 
chalets of the Grand? A!pe> -J hr, 
above Fo?'net (2 hrs. from the Col). 

Fomet (1,731 m., 5,679 ft.), the 
highest village in the Val Grisanche, 
has now a fair little mountain inn, 
and is the best headquarters for 
mountaineers in the Val Grisanche. 
It stands not far from the junction of 
the St. Grat and Vaudet glens, which 
unite to form the Val Grisanche. 
Hence any of the neighbouring peaks 
(all described in the preceding or 
following Rtes. ), such as the Grande 
Sassiere, the Ormelune, the Rutor, 
or the Bee de PInvergnan, can be 
ascended comfortably in the day, and 
generally taken on the way over to 
one of the surrounding valleys. 

There is a mule path from Fornet 
in a short hour down to Liverogne. 
Below Fornet the vast piles of debris 
and masses of dark rock, which cause 
the upper end of the valley to present a 
nearly unbroken scene of desolation, 
gradually give place to pasture and 
forest. The level tract of Suphm y 
scored and wasted by the torrent, is 
passed before the chief village of 
the valley, Eglise, or Valgrisanche 
(1,664 m -j 5>46o ft.), is attained. 
The path descends by a charming 
succession of green basins, wherein 
stand different hamlets, a little way 
beyond the last of which, Fevers, at 
the level marshy plain of Flanaval, 
the glen of that name joins the main 
valley, the stream here making a fine 
cascade. On the cliffs above are the 
ruins of the Castle of Planaval. At 
this point the valley, which has 
hitherto run in a slightly N.E. direc- 
tion, bends more and more in that 
direction. A fine distant view of the 
Matterhorn and Monte Rosa is 
obtained as the path enters in a 
savage narrow defile, running high 
up on its left bank. The scenery 
here is of a striking character. The 
river rushes in a steep gorge, while 



286 GRAIAN ALPS. § 14. SASSIERE DISTRICT 



the rocks, both above and below 
the path, are nearly perpendicular. 

[They ' consist of extremely hard 
gneiss, which preserves very dis- 
tinctly the traces of glacier action.' 
(R. C. N.fl 

On a sort of terrace on the oppo- 
site bank the ruins of the feudal 
castle of Mont?nayeur are seen, 
frowning over the black ravine. On 
issuing from this gorge, the lower 
portion of which is impassable, 
the path bears to the left away from 
it, and descends amidst splendid 
chestnuts, orchards, and meadows, 
and past a mill, to the village of 
Liverogne (9 m., or 2 J firs.' walk 
from Eglise), on the high road in the 
village of Aosta (Rte. G. below), 9111. 
from Aosta and 12 m. from Cour- 
mayeur. 

4. Col de la Sathere. — This wild 
and little-known pass is a moun- 
taineer's or smuggler's variation of 
the Col du Mont. It takes nearly the 
same time (6 \ hrs. ), and leads through 
very fine scenery, while from the sum- 
mit a very interesting peak may be 
ascended. 

The way is the same as that of the 
Col du Mont as far as La Crau, then 
crosses a stone bridge and runs N. to 
the Jordan hut, at the junction of the 
Louie Blanche glen (see next Rte.), 
when the path bends E. and past 
several groups of chalets brings the 
traveller to the huts of La Sassiere de 
Ste. Foy, 2,039 m., 6,690 ft. (3 hrs. 
from Ste. Foy), beautifully situated in 
a pasture basin, surrounded by wild, 
rocky peaks, and in full view of the 
Bee du Mont and of the Grand 
Avemet glacier, flowing from the 
great Rutor snow-field. The way 
then turns due E., and after having 
mounted by pastures leads over a 
rocky promontory above the right 
bank of the torrent, and so to a small 
glacier, over which the pass (2,857 m., 
9,374 ft.) is attained (ij hr. from 
La Sassiere de Ste. Foy). It is also 
called Col de la Sassiere ( ' Sachere ' is 
a patois form of ' Sassiere,' adopted 
here to avoid confusion), and Col du 



I Lac, from the lake of St. Grat, on the 
: Italian side. 

[The view is limited, but may be 
much extended by climbing, in 
55 min., over easy broken rocks and 
; snow to the summit of the Grand Bee 
\ du Mont (3,218 m., 10,558 ft.), just 
, S. of the pass, and rising between it 
. and the Col du Mont. Bits of the 
Mont Blanc and Monte Rosa ranges 
are seen hence, while there is no 
j better point whence to study the 
neighbouring peaks.] 

The small glacier of Sachere, on 
the other side, is soon traversed, and 
then the way lies S.E. past a military 
Refuge till the stream flowing from 
the Lac de St. Grat is crossed some 
way below the waterfall. The left 
bank of that torrent is then followed 
past the Grand' Alpe chalets (where 
I the path from the Col du Mont is 
joined) to Fornet (2 hrs. from the 
Col). 



Route F. 

STE. FOY OR THE VAL GRISANCHE 
TO LA THUILLE BY THE RUTOR 
GROUP. 

The northernmost portion of the 
mountain mass between the Grand 
Paradis group and the road across 
the Little St. Bernard pass is not, 
as might have been expected, occu- 
pied by a fourth long and narrow 
valley parallel to the Val Savaranche, 
the Val de Rhemes, and the Val 
Grisanche, but is crowned by a con- 
siderable snow-clad region, that of the 
Rutor. (This name comes, perhaps, 
from c ru tors,' meaning a 4 crooked 
brook,' but is more probably a form 
of the patois word 4 reuse,' or i roise,' 
signifying ' glacier,' as a part of this 
snowy mass is well seen from Aosta 
itself. ) This snow region consists of a 
very extensive and gently inclined 
snow and ice field, ending on the S. 



ROUTE F. STE. FOY TO LA THUILLE 



287 



in a snow cliff, but enclosed on the 
E. and W. by lofty ridges, which 
send down glens in various direc- 
tions, while the main glacier is 
drained through the opening on the 
fourth or N.W. side, the Rutor glen 
which descends direct to La Thuille, 
on the Little St. Bernard road. Be- 
sides this principal glen, by which 
access is most easily gained to the 
upper snows, there are on the S.W. 
the ravines which combine to form 
the valley of La Sassiere de Ste. 
Foy, while on the S. the glen 
of St. Grat, on the E. that of 
Morion, and on the N.E. that 
of Planaval all join the Val Gris- 
anche. Through all these five glens 
(each having a glacier at its head) 
passes lead up to the central snowy 
mass. On the N. and N.E. many 
minor ravines descend towards the 
Dora Baltea valley, between Liverogne 
and Pre St. Didier, while on the 
S.W. one or two run in that direction 
towards the Isere valley, E. of Bourg 
St. Maurice. 

Before, however, describing the 
various routes by which the central 
mass may be reached, it seems desir- 
able to give some account of that mass 
itself, and of the history of its ex- 
ploration. This great sea of ice starts 
from a very wide opening on the S. 
which ends in a cliff of snow (the Col 
de St. Grat, 3,300 m., 10,827 ft.), 
overlooking on the S. the chapel and 
lake of St. Grat. Hence it flows 
down in a N.N. W. direction, between 
a double row of peaks, to the chapel of 
Ste. Marguerite (near which is a 
Club hut, built by the Italian Alpine 
Club) and the Rutor lake, both at the 
head of the glen descending towards 
La Thuille. 

The following is a list of the peaks 
and passes, with the glens which 
lead up to them, on either side of this 
great snow field : — 

1. E. Side. 

(a) Tete du RtUor (3,486 m., 
11,438 ft.), the culminating point of 
the entire group. 



(b) Col du Rutor (c. 3,350 m., 
10,991ft.) (Morion glen. ) 

(c) Chateau Blanc (3,369 m., 
11,054 ft.) 

(d) Col du Chateau Blanc, over 
3,150 m., 10,335 ft- (Planaval glen.) 

(e) Doravidi Sud (3,449 m., 
11,316 ft.) 

(f) Col de Doravidi ( Planaval glen ) . 

(g) Doravidi Nord (3,304 m., 
10,841 ft.) 

(h) Col de Planaval, 2,958 m., 
9,705ft. (Planaval glen.) 

(i) BeccaJVera {3,211m., 10,535 ft.) 
(k) Becca Bianca (3,240 m., 

10,630 ft.) 

(/) Les Envergneures (3,051 m., 
10,010 ft.). E. of this summit, but 
separated by it from the main glacier, 
is the Mont Paramont (3,309 m., 
10,857 ft.), the last point of im- 
portance in the group. 

2. W. Side. 

(a) Bee du Lac (3, 409m., 11,185ft.) 

(b) Col du Bee du Lac (Sassiere de 
Ste. Foy glen). 

(c) Col de VAvernet, 3,230 m., 
10,598 ft. (same glen. ) This pass is 
just W. of a rocky mound, whence a 
spur runs to the N.E. into the main 
glacier, and is crowned by two rocky 
points, the Vedettes du Rutor, the 
highest and southernmost of which is 
3,332 m., 10,932 ft. 

(d) Pointe de VAvernet (3,236 m., 
10,617 ft.) 

(e) Col de Loydon, 3,045 m., 
9,991 ft. (Sassiere de Ste. Foy glen.) 

(f) Pointe de Loydon, 3,148 m., 
10,329 ft. (the Pointe du Grand of 
the French map. ) 

(g) Col d' Assaly, c. 3,025 m., 
9,925 ft. (Sassiere de Ste. Foy glen.) 

(h) Grand Assaly, 3,174 m., 
10,414 ft. (the Pointe du Petit of 
the French map). The summit is 
a little N.E. of the watershed, and 
on the spurs projecting from the 
actual point of junction rise the Tete 
eP Assaly (c. 2,950 m., 9,679 ft.) and 
the Petit Assaly (2,965 m., 9,728 ft.) 
W. of the Grand Assaly the water- 
shed turns due W., thus leaving the 



288 



GRAIAN ALPS. § 14. 



SASSIERE DISTRICT 



central glacier, and is briefly de- 
scribed at the end of this Rte. 

Students of Alpine topography will 
find further details as to these two 
ranges in Signor Bobba's 1890 article 
and M. Ferrand's book, both referred 
to in the Introductions to this Chapter 
and this Section. 

Some time before 1858 a hunter of 
Val Grisanche, J. B. Frassy, with a 
companion, built a stone-man on one 
of the Vedettes (seen in 1858 and 
1 861), this being the first known ex- 
ploration of the great Rutor glacier. 
In 1858 Frassy acted as guide to 
Herren G. Studer, Bucher, and J. J. 
Weilenmann, who made the first 
ascent of the Tete du Rtdor, climb- 
ing it from the Morion glacier on the 
E., and descending on the W. to the 
Rutor glacier, which was then tra- 
versed in all its length to La Thuille ; 
on the way Herr Weilenmann alone 
went up the Chateau Blanc. In 
1 86 1 Messrs. W. Mathews and F. W. 
Jacomb made the passage of the Col 
du Chateau Blanc, and the ascent of 
the Do?'avidi Sud, declined to descend 
from the Col de St. Grat, but reached 
the Sassiere de Ste. Foy glen by the 
Col du Bee du Lac. In 1862 Messrs. 
W. Mathews and T. G. Bonney as- 
cended the Tete du Rutor from the Col 
du Rutor, on the N., coming from 
and returning to La Thuille. In 
1864 Messrs. Bonney and Taylor re- 
peated that ascent, and made the first 
complete passage of the Col du Rutor, 
while in 1865 Mr. Elijah Walton 
crossed the Col de Planaval. In 1868 
Signori A. Gorret, Vierin, and P. J. 
Frassy gained the head of the Rutor 
glacier from the Morion glacier by 
the Col de Morion, S. of the rock 
tower (S. of the Tete), marking the 
point at which the ridge from the 
Tete joins the E. and W. line extend- 
ing by the Col de St. Grat to the 
Bee du Lac. A long interval now 
followed, during which the ascents of 
the Bee du Lac in 1880 (by Signori 
Vaccarone and Chanoux), and of the 
Grand Assaly in 1878 (by M. Jac- 
quemot), were the principal events. 



In 1886 Mr. Coolidge (without 
realising at the time the historical 
importance of his expedition) made 
the first complete passage of the Col 
de St. Grat( climbing up from theS.), 
while in 1892 M. Henri Ferrand suc- 
ceeded in at last discovering the true 
and easy way from the French side 
to the Rutor glacier by the Col de 
PAvernet, whereas the 1861 party 
! (and Mr. George in 1875) na ^ 
effected only a very steep descent 
I on that side from the Col du Bee du 
; Lac. The next day M. Ferrand 
I made the first thorough exploration 
I of the tangled ridges between the 
Grand Assaly and the Little St. Ber- 
nard. 

Most travellers who visit the Rutor 
j group do so with the intention of 
1 climbing its culminating point, the 
I Tete du Rutor (3,486 m., 11,438 ft.), 
! a justly celebrated and very easily 
\ accessible belvedere, generally at- 
; tacked by its rocky N. face \\ hr. 
; up) from the Col du Rutor, whereon 
! is the Defey Club hut. It therefore 
I seems the most convenient plan to 
I indicate how this Col can be reached 
' through the various lateral glens which 
give access to the great central glacier, 
giving some notice by the way of the 
minor peaks and passes of the group. 
1. By the Rutor Glen (6| hrs. from 
I La Thuille). — This is the usual route. 
From La Thuille a char road is fol- 
lowed along the right bank of the 
Rutor torrent, which crosses higher 
up to the other bank to the mining 
; buildings of Bocambre (for a silver 
mine on the M. Colmet to the E. ), 
and then continues along that bank 
to the green basin wherein are the 
chalets of La Joux ( 1 hr. ) This 
basin is at the ' foot of the steep and 
1 lofty barrier of rock that closes 
the head of the valley, is covered 
with pines, and is crowned by the 
extremity of the great Rutor Glacier, 
which discharges a torrent that leaps 
down the rocks in the series of beauti- 
ful cascades known as the Rutorines' 
(across the upper and lower of which 
bridges have been thrown for the use 



ROUTE F. STE. FOY TO LA THUILLE 



2S9 



of visitors). ( On leaving the Joux 
basin we crossed by a foot bridge, 
which stands a few yards below the 
chalets. The mule path then ascends 
amidst charming scenery, winding 
round steep faces of rock, and among 
gigantic boulders, clothed with larch 
and the cembra pine, mingled with a 
few spruces. Close at hand, on the 
right, the torrent thunders down a 
deep cleft. The zigzags become 
steeper,' and the path mounts to the 
E. till it descends into a large basin 
in which is the Lac du Glacier ( \\ hr. ) 
The path passes the Glacier huts, and 
then mounts by zigzags S.E. over a 
low ridge, whence it descends to the 
Lao du Rutor, 2,402 m., 7,881 ft. 
(3-3 2 ^ rs - f rom La Thuille), near 
which are the chapel and huts of 
Ste. Marguerite and the Club hut 
(2,420 m., 7,940 ft.) 'Throughout 
the ascent from La Thuille the marks 
of glacial action are conspicuous, and 
just before reaching Ste. Marguerite 
we passed a dome of rock, with a fine 
bloc perche on the summit. There are 
few walks in the Alps so beautiful as 
that from La Joux to Ste. Margue- 
rite.' (W. M.) 

But since 1864 the retreat of 
the glacier and the diminution of 
the Lac du Rutor have caused Mr. 
Mathews' classical description of the 
loveliness of the surroundings of 
Ste. Marguerite to become of purely 
historical interest. The history of the 
Lake has been written by Signor M. 
Baretti in the ' Bollettino ' of the 
Italian Alpine Club for 1880, and is 
most interesting. It burst its bounds 
annually from 1 594 to 1606, and often 
in later days, so that various projects 
were devised to restrain it, as these 
outbreaks caused great damage in the 
valley below. In 1605 the head of 
St. Grat (the patron saint of the 
diocese of Aosta) was carried solemnly 
in procession to the lake for the sake 
of averting future misfortunes, and 
the next year the chapel of Ste.. Mar- 
guerite was built above the lake, and 
an annual procession henceforward 
made thither (but now discontinued) 
I. 



on July 20, the festival of that saint. 
Since 1864, however, the ground has 
altered much, the glacier having lost 
800 m. (2.625 ft.) in length and 
350 m. (1,148 ft.) in breadth, while 
the lake has lost 45 m. (148 ft.) in 
depth, 500 m. (1,640 ft.) in length, 
and 200 m. (656 ft.) in breadth. 
Hence the appearance of the sur- 
roundings has been greatly changed, 
and the lake is now simply a big, 
dirty pond, with a moraine-be- 
smirched glacier near it, all quite 
different from the fair sight described 
by Mr. Mathews in 1 86 1. Owing to 
these changes the Lake now drains 
into the stream as it issues from the 
lower end of the glacier, whereas 
j previously the ice forced its outlet to 
I flow in a fine waterfall over the hill- 
I side into the Lac du Glacier, which 
: drained into the Combassa or Co?nba 
i Sorda torrent, this joining the Rutor 
stream far below in the level valley. 
However if the lake is less pictu- 
j resque than it used to be the view 
from the hillock near the Club hut is 
always beautiful, including the Mont 
Blanc range, the group of the Grand 
Assaly, and the icefall of the Rutor 
glacier, with the Tete just peeping 
over. 

[The Envergneures, on the E. of the 
Club hut, is easily reached along the 
W. ridge ; while the M. Para?uont 
may be reached by -| hr.'s climb from 
the Ussellettes glacier, in 4 hrs. from 
the Club hut. This last-named gla- 
cier fills a glen between the two 
summits, through which the Pas 
d>En Haut (2,812 m., 9,226 ft.) 
gives access to La Salle, in the Aosta 
valley, in about 4J hrs. from the Club 
hut. On the S.W. it is possible to 
go from La Thuille in about 7 hrs. to 
Ste. Foy by the Bellecombe and Sas- 
siere de Ste. Foy glens, either by the 
Col de la Lottie Blanche (2.567 m., 
8.422 ft.) or by the Col de Tachuy, 
or du Petit (2,797 m., 9,177 ft.) To 
the N.W. of these two passes is the 
Col du Grand Glacier (2,806 m. , 
9,206 ft. ), by which 8 hrs. are required 
from La Thuille by the La Joux huts 

U 



290 GRAIAN ALPS. § 14. SASSIERE DISTRICT 



and the Ponteilles and Moulins glens 
to Ste. Foy or Bourg St. Maurice. 
S.E. of the Grand Assaly is the Col 
d" Assaly, by which Ste. Foy is 6-7 hrs. 
from the Club hut, while the Grand 
Assaly itself may be gained by a 
rock ridge in \ hr. from the pass. J 

It takes about I hr. over moraine to j 
gain the right bank of the great Rutor j 
Glacier, which is thenfmounted with- 
out the slightest trouble in a S.E. | 
direction. In 1-2 hrs. more the Col j 
du Rutor may be attained. Thence 
it is \ hr. 's climb to the summit of the 
Tete, the final tower of rock, about 
18 ft. high, alone offering any diffi- 
culty. 34 hrs. from the Club hut thus 
suffice to reach the top, whereon 
Saxifraga dry 0 Ides and an Androsace 
{? glacial V s) grow abundantly. A 
curious turret in open iron work now 
crowns the summit. 

Mr. Mathews has justly compared 
the position of the Rutor in respect 
to the range of Mont Blanc with that 
of the Buet, both points being sepa- 
rated from it by a lower interme- 
diate range. There is, however, this 
difference, that on the side opposite 1 
to Mont Blanc the Rutor is encircled 
by the loftier peaks of the Graian 
Alps, while the only direction in 
which the eye penetrates to the lower 
cultivated region is along the Val 
d'Aosta, which is viewed throughout 
the entire distance from St. Pierre to 
beyond Chatillon, though the city of 
Aosta itself is not visible. The Pen- 
nines are very fine, as are the nearer 
Graians, while one of the most 
striking features in the panorama is 
the great Gliairetta glacier, which 
fills the whole of the head of the 
Val Grisanche. 

2. By the Planaval Glen ( 5-6 hrs. 
from Planaval). — The village of Pla- 
naval stands above the marshy plain 
of that name mentioned in Rte. E. 3. 
It is easily gained by a mule path 
from the Res si a huts, if coming from 
Eglise, or by a good path past La 
Clusaz, or from Liverogne, by a track 
along the heights above the left bank 
of the Val Grisanche stream, and 



past the hamlet of Baulen. 2 hrs. 
beyond Planaval are the chalets du 
Glacier (2,1 50 m., 7,054 ft.), where 
night quarters may be had. Thence 
in 2 hrs. more the Col de Planaval 
may be reached by the N. branch of 
the Chateau Blanc glacier ; if the S. 
branch be followed, 3J hrs. are re- 
quired from the chalets to the Col du 
Chateau Blanc, on which there is a 
little frozen lake. The Doravidi 
Sud (the double-pointed peak, appa- 
rently the highest when seen from 
Aosta) may be climbed from the latter 
Col, or direct from the glacier, by 
easy rocks in J hr. It is visible from 
Aosta, as is the Col de Planaval. The 
Rutor glacier once gained in this 
way, \ hr. or less suffices to reach the 
Col du Rutor from the Col du 
Chateau Blanc, and 1 hr. or more 
from the Col de Planaval. 

3. By the Morion Glen (5j- hrs. 
from Valgrisanche). — This route is 
probably the most favourite one after 
that from the Club hut described under 
1. for in this way the peak may be 
climbed en route from Valgris- 
anche 10 La Thuille. It is most 
convenient not to ascend the whole 
of the Morion glen, but to quit the 
valley at the hamlet of Bo7i?ie, \ hr. 
above the chief village, L'Eglise, 
Hence in about \\ hr. (the distance 
is the same from Fornet, at the head 
of the Val Grisanche) the chalets of 
Alpe Vieille are attained, and in 

hr. more, by a direct ascent to the 
N., up pastures and rocks, the lake 
of Morion, close to the right bank of 
the glaciei of that name, over which 
the Col is reached in 2-2J hrs. more, 
or somewhat over 5 hrs. from Val- 
grisanche. It may be noted here 
that in 1864 Messrs. Bonney and 
Taylor went from La Thuille to the 
the chief hamlet of Val Grisanche by 
the Col du Rutor in 7J hrs.' actual 
walking, not including the ascent to 
and return from the Tete, which re- 
quired 50 min. 

4. By the St. Grat Glen (4-J- hrs. 
from Fornet). — This is by far the 
most interesting way for a traveller 



ROUTE F. STE. FOY TO LA THUILLE 



291 



who finds himself (having come 
thither perhaps from Val d'Isere or 
the Val de Rhemes) at Fornet, the 
highest village in the Val Grisanche. 
The Col du Mont track is followed 
at first, but when it bears W. it is 
necessary to follow the path which 
bears up the St. Grat glen on the N. , 
first by the left, then by the stony 
right bank of the torrent, to the chapel 
of St. Grat, close to the lake of the 
same name, 2,473 m -> 8,114 ft. (if- 

2 hrs. ) Thence the ascent is con- 
tinued in a due N. direction by a 
rocky glen, two rock terraces, and a 
small glacier to the left-hand end of 
a long and conspicuous snow band 
(ij hr. ) It may sometimes be de- 
sirable to bear very far to the left, 
but the first party found (in Sept.) 
no difficulty in bearing very slightly 
to the left, and then working their 
way up a snow cliff of about 20 ft. 
to the S. rim of the great Rutor 
glacier, now called the Col de St. 
Grat (50 min. ), gained thus in about 
4 hrs. from Fornet. Twenty min. 
suffice over the easy glacier to go 
hence to the Col du Rutor. 

5. By the S assure de Ste. Foy Glen 
(5-6 hrs. from the Sassiere chalets). — 
This is the direct way from the 
French side, and is very convenient 
for a party wishing to traverse the 
Rutor. Yet, as pointed out above, 
it was only discovered in 1892, two 
previous parties having descended 
from a high point on the N. ridge of 
the Bee du Lac, and been forced to cut 
down very steep snow slopes, so that 
before 1892 this side was regarded as 
rather difficult. 

The start is best made from the 
chalets of La Sassiere de Ste. Foy, 

3 hrs. from Ste. Foy by the mule 
path described in the last Rte. (under 
4.) The ascent is made by the 
Avernet ravine (in which flow the 
two central torrents seen from the 
chalets), by which in 2.\ hrs., or less, 
the right bank of the Avernet glacier 
is reached. It is then an easy ascent 
of 2\ hrs., or less, up this gently- 
inclined glacier to the Col de V Avernet, 



just W. of the point where the 
Vedettes spur joins the main ridge. 
Thence about I hr. suffices to mount 
to the Col du Rutor. The two Cols 
more to the N. are more circuitous, 
but the return to the Sassiere huts may 
well be made by the Col de Loydon 
and the glacier of that name, or by 
the Col d'Assaly and a rocky gully, 
2 hrs. or so being required from the 
edge of the Rutor snow-field. 

To complete the account of this 
region it only remains to give a brief 
description of the watershed between 
j the Grand Assaly and the Little St. 
I Bernard road, which is taken from 
I M. Ferrand's book. The following 
j Table is the continuation of No. 2 of 
j those given above : — 

(i.) Pointe de Tachny (c. 2,850 m., 
9,351ft.). The point marked 2,963 m. 
I on the Italian map. 

(ii. ) Col de Tachuy (2,797 m., 
9,177 ft.). The Col du Petit of the 
French map. A broad and easy 
opening. 

(iii. ) Roc Roitge or Mont Charve 
(2,957 m., 9,702 ft,) 

(iv. ) Col de la Lotiie Blanche 
I (2,567 m., 8,422 ft.) 

(v.) Pointe Rousse (2,810 m., 

i 9,220 ft.) 

(vi. ) Col de Planpizet. Called Col 
de Serre or de Truche by the French 
map. 

(vii.) La Lottie Blanche (2,951 m., 
9,682 ft.) This is the highest of 
four points on the ridge, to which 
the heights 2,907 m. and 2,928 m. 
on the French and 2,901 m. on the 
Italian map belong. Between the 
north-westerly of these and the point 
next to the S.E. there is a gap in 
reddish rocks, locally known as the 
Col Rotix. 

(viii. ) Col du Grand Glacier 
(2,806 m., 9,206 ft.) This is a 
very well marked depression, beyond 
which rises the well-known belvedere 
of the Mont Valaisan, to be men- 
tioned in the next Rte. in connection 
with the Little St. Bernard. 

A few particulars (taken from 
Signori Vaccarone and Bobba's ex- 
u 2 



GRAIAN ALPS. § 14. SASSIERE DISTRICT 



cellent ' Guida '), as the passes num- 
bered ii., iv. , and viii. in this list, 
were given above in the notice of the 
Rutor Club hut, but these Cols are 
very little known even now, and de- 
tailed information as regards them 
would be most acceptable. 



Route G. 

BOURG ST. MAURICE TO AOSTA BY 
THE LITTLE ST. BERNARD. 





M. 


S6ez . 


2 


Hospice . 


. 6 


La Thuille 


• X3i 


Pre" St. Didier . 


. 20 


Morgex 


22 


Liverogne 


• 30 


Villeneuve 


• 33 


Aosta 


• 39 



Good carriage road all the way. In 
summer diligences from Courmayeur 
and Bourg St. Maurice meet at the 
Hospice. 

The Pass of the Little St. Ber- 
nard is the lowest gap in the main 
chain of the Alps between the 
Mont Cenis and the Simplon, and 
hence, as these respectively mark the 
limits between the Cottian Alps and 
the Graian Alps, and between the 
Pennine Alps and the Lepontine 
Alps, the Little St. Bernard seems 
the natural limit between the Graian 
Alps and the Pennine Alps. It is 
of considerable historical interest, as 
some writers have believed that it was 
the pass by which Hannibal entered 
Italy (though most modern scholars 
are of opinion that the Mont Genevre 
was much more probably the scene of 
this famous event), and because St. 
Bernard of Menthon in the eleventh 
centuiy founded here a Hospice as 
well as on the better known Great 
St. Bernard. But its commercial 
importance has never been very great, 
so that the carriage road over it was 



I only completed about 1870. Pedes- 
trians can greatly shorten the distance 
by following the old mule path from 

I Seez to the Hospice, from the second 

: Refuge to La Thuille, and from the 
second tunnel to Pre St. Didier. 

After passing a square tower, said 
to date from the fourth century, the 
road from Bourg St. Maurice towards 
the pass crosses the Versoye torrent, 
descending from the Col du Bon- 
homme (§ 16. Rte. E), and then the 
Recluse, flowing from the Little St. 
Bernard. It thus reaches the village 
of Seez, where the Recluse glen seems 

I the natural prolongation of the Isere 

1 valley, as that valley (§ 12. Rte. B) 
here makes a sharp angle to the S.E. 
The old mule track henceforward 
keeps along the course of the Recluse 
past the hamlet of St. Germain, but 
the new carriage road on quitting 
Seez mounts N.E. in a series of seven 
great zigzags high above and far from 
the left bank of that stream. The 
ascent is gentle, but there is no 
striking object in view save the fine 
peak of the Mont Pourri. 

[In the middle of the last but 
one of the long zigzags a path 
falls in by which the traveller may 
reach the Hospice in rather over 
3 hrs. from St. Foy by way of the 
hamlets of Masures, Miroir, Le 
Chdtelard, and La Combe, a short 
cut especially convenient for a tra- 
veller bound from Courmayeur direct 
to the upper valley of the Isere. 
Higher up, not far from the Hospice, 
a military road leads up in zigzags 
to the S.E. to the Col de Traversette, 
by which Le Chatelard and Ste. 
Foy can be reached even more 
directly from the Hospice. J 

The final ascent is very gentle, and 
the Cantine Ste. Barbe and then the 

; French Customs house are passed 

i before attaining the 

Hospice (2,153 m -5 7,064ft. ), which 
is just within the Italian frontier. It 
is at the end of a grassy plain, nearly 
3 miles long and 1 mile wide, and 
about 35 metres ( 1 1 5 ft. ) below and 
S.W. of the actual Col, which lies in 



ROUTE G. BOURG ST. MAURICE TO AO ST A 293 



the middle of the plateau, sloping 
very gently on either side. 

' The Hospice was founded by St. 
Bernard de Menthon in the eleventh 
century. The Celtic remains which 
still exist here, and the foundations 
of a temple constructed of Roman 
brick near the Colonne de Joux, 
show, however, that the pass was 
known in earlier times. From the 
eleventh to the thirteenth century 
the Hospice was styled hospitals 
columnce Jovis^ the name domns 
Sancti Bernardi montis Jovis occur- 
ring first in 1181, while later the pass 
was called Mont Jouvet, to distin- 
guish it from the Mont Joux, or the 
Great St. Bernard. The Hospice 
was from 1466 (possibly earlier) de- 
pendent on that of the Great St. 
Bernard, but about 1750 was handed 
over to the military and religious 
order of SS. Maurice and Lazarus.' 
(M. ) The Rector is bound to enter- 
tain poor travellers gratuitously, but 
fair accommodation {not provisions 
for excursions) is supplied to tourists, 
who are expected to make an offer- 
ing of about the same amount as they 
pay in an hotel. There is a good 
library, as well as a Meteorological 
station, and a garden of Alpine 
plants. 

On the plateau there are some re- 
mains of antiquity. The road passes 
through what seems to be a Druidical 
circle, said to be unique in Italy, but 
now misnamed ' Cirque d'Annibal. ' 
Close to the summit of the pass there 
is a column of Cipolline marble, 
called the ' Colonne de Joux,' which is 
about 20 ft. high and probably be- 
longed to the Roman temple. It is 
now surmounted by a statue of St. 
Bernard. 

[Many excursions and ascents may 
be made from the Hospice. S.E. 
rises the Mont Valaisan (2,892 m., 
9,489 ft.), an outlier of the Rutor 
group, and accessible in 3-4 hrs. A 
spur running N. from this peak is 
called the Belvedere (2,692 m., 
8,832 ft.), and is frequently visited 
for the sake of the view, as it is only 



1 1 hr. distant. On the N.W. a 
much higher chain divides the road 
over the pass from the Allee Blanche 
and the Versoye glen. The nearest 
point of this range is the Roc de Beile- 
face (2,861 m., 9,387 ft.), reached in 
i-J hr. from the Hospice. Another 
much- visited point of view (3 hrs. by 
mule path to the summit) is the 
Lancebranlette (2,936 m., 9,633 ft.) 
The range continues N.W. through 
the M. Miravidi, 3,066 m., 10,060 ft. 
(5 hrs. from the Hospice, a fine 
point of view), to the Pointe de Le- 
chaud (3,127 m., 10,260 ft.), in 
which it culminates. This last sum- 
mit can be gained in about 6 hrs. 
from the Hospice, keeping high up 
on the E. side of the range over the 
Lavage ; Argnerey, and Breuil 
glaciers, while it is easy to descend 
to the Col de la Seigne and Mottets 
($ 16. Rte. E). Across this range 
the Col de Forcle (2,638 m., 8,655 
ft.), S.W. of the Roc de Belleface, 
and the Col de Breuil (2,879 m -? 
9,446 ft.), N. of the M. Miravidi, 
lead over, in 5 hrs. and 7-8 hrs. re- 
spectively, to Bonneval-les- Bains, 
at the junction of the Versoye glen 
with that coming from Les Chapieux 
(see § 11. Rte. K). From the 
Pointe de Lechaud the range runs 
E.N.E., enclosing the head of the 
Chavannes valley, through which the 
Cols des Chavannes (2,606 m., 8,550 
ft.) and du Baracon, 2.744 m -j 
9,003 ft. (see § 16. Rte. E), lead 
I over in 7 hrs. from the Hospice to 
I Courmayeur by way of the Allee 
Blanche ; there is a new mule track 
from the latter to Courmayeur by the 
Cols de Youla and de PArp. From 
the Col du Baracon the fine view- 
point of the Mont Favre (3,259 m., 
10,693 ft-] on tne S.E. may be 
ascended, but if taken from La 
Thuille direct (6J-7 hrs.) it is best 
to mount the Orgere glen, and ascend 
the great gully in its E. face.] 

The road mounts slightly from the 
Hospice, passing through the Druid- 
ical circle mentioned above, and 
reaches the summit of the pass 



294 



GRAIAN ALPS. § 14. SASSIERE DISTRICT 



(2, 188 m., 7,179 ft.)„ marked by the 
4 Colonne de Joux, ? described above. 
It then descends past some ruins of a 
Roman temple or house. Near 
the Lac Vemey the range of Mont 
Blanc, and later the Grand Combin 
and the Velan, come into sight, and 
present a magnificent appearance ; to 
the left is seen the summit of the 
Mont Favre. The Cantine des Eaux 
Rousses is passed, as well as two 
other Refuges, and soon after com- 
mences a series of great zigzags de- 
scending to the hamlet of Pont Ser- 
vanda where the Dora, flowing in a 
deep ravine, is crossed. A new set of 
zigzags brings the traveller to the 
village of La Thuille (1,441 m., 
4,728 ft. ), in a wide basin and in face 
of the great Rutor glacier to the S., 
which is worth a visit (see last Rte. ) 

[Many of the excursions from the 
Hospice can also be made from La 
Thuille. A pedestrian bound for 
Aosta may gain some fine views of 
the Mont Blanc range by following 
from La Thuille a mule track which 
passes through the hamlet of Thovez 
and then a pasture valley to a high 
upland, called the ' Camp of Prince 
Thomas of Savoy,' where are remains 
of fortifications thrown up in 1640 to 
guard the pass, and used again in 
1792. The path runs through a thick 
forest, and then descends steeply to 
Morgex, 2 m. below Pre St. Didier, 
and 3 hrs. from La Thuille by this 
very pleasant route.] 

The road soon plunges into a savage 
gorge, through which it is carried first 
above the right, then above the left, 
bank of the torrent, which roars at a 
great depth below. Two tunnels are 
traversed, on issuing from the second 
of which a splendid glimpse of the 
Mont Blanc chain is caught, before 
a final series of long zigzags leads 
down to the level of the Dora Baltea 
valley at 

Pre St. Didier (1,010 m., 
3,314 ft. ), 2 m. below the well-known 
mountain resort of Courmayeur 
(§ 16. Rte. E). 

Close to the village are the Baths 



(iron), very picturesquely situated and 
much frequented in summer by Ita- 
lian visitors. The view of Mont 
Blanc, and the surrounding pine 
forests, make the scenery here far 
superior to that of the immediate 
neighbourhood of Courmayeur, but 
Pre St. Didier is more distant than 
Courmayeur from all the objects of 
interest, with the sole exception of 
the Crammont, so that the latter 
village will be preferred by those bent 
on mountain excursions. 

2 m. below Pre St. Didier is 
Morgex, the chief village in the 
magnificent basin called the Valdigne, 
which is dominated by the mass of 
Mont Blanc. (For the way hence 
by the Col Serena to the Great St. 
Bernard see § 18. Rte. B.) The 
vine begins to appear here, and be- 
comes more common a little further 
down, about La Salle, a poor village 
above the road (for the way hence to 
the Mont Fallere see § 18. Rte. B), 
with a seventeenth-century castle : the 
I village preserves in its name that of 
the Salassi, who once held the valley. 
The valley is here clothed with the 
fine forest of Derby on the S. side, 
but gradually contracts, as it ap- 
! proaches a fine modern bridge thrown 
across the Dora Baltea, close to the 
; junction of a torrent (which makes a 
fine waterfall) from the Combe de 
Vertosan. Below the bridge the 
; valley becomes a mere defile (called 
i Pierre Tail lee), and the road is 
I carried along the right bank at a 
I great height above the stream, in 
some cases forming a projecting cor- 
nice, propped up by massive beams 
of timber. The pass was formerly 
guarded by a gate and drawbridges, 
which, like a blockhouse, intended to 
enfilade the road, have now dis- 
appeared, but it would be easy to 
make the valley impassable to a 
I hostile force by destroying the props 
which sustain the road. On issuing 
from the narrowest part of the defile 
the picturesque village of Avise is 
seen on the opposite bank, and the 
road then reaches Liverogne, at the 



§ 15- GRAND PARADIS DISTRICT (EASTERN GRAIANS) 295 



entrance of the Val Grisanche (see 
Rte. E. above). Here, and through- 
out the Val d'Aosta, it is painful to 
contrast the beauty of the scenery, 
and the richness of the vegetation, 
with the poverty, filth, and cretinism 
which are the characteristics of the 
population. The road crosses the 
stream flowing from the Val Gris- 
anche, and through a fine avenue of 
walnut trees reaches Arvier, opposite 
a steep and lofty escarpment, on the 
N. side of the valley, above which is 
seen the spire of the church of St. 
Nicholas. To the right are the 
openings of the beautiful valleys of 
Rhemes and Savaranche (see Rte. C. 
above, and § 15. Rte. I), the united 
streams from which are crossed before 
entering Villeneuve. Immediately 
after the road returns to the left bank 
of the Dora Baltea, and soon attains 
St. Pierre, with an ancient castle, 
commanding a view of the snowy 
Alps at the head of the Val Sava- 
ranche. The Grivola is seen just before 
St. Pierre, and soon after the rock 
tower of the Grand Nomenon comes 
into sight. The road passes opposite 
Aymaville, at the mouth of the Cogne 
valley (§ 15. Rte. B). Several 
modernised chateaux are seen on 
either slope of the valley, the most 
remarkable being that of Sarre, in 
which are preserved the horns of the 
numerous bouquetins and chamois 
shot by the late and present Kings of 
Italy. The character of the vegeta- 
tion announces a marked change of 
climate, as the valley widens out, 
and the road, here hot and dusty, 
reaches 

Aosta, a most interesting little city, 
in a lovely position, which is fully 
described in § 15. Rte. A. 



SECTION 15. 

GRAND PARADIS DISTRICT 
{EASTERN GRAIANS). 

As has been pointed out in the 
Introduction to this Chapter, the 
Eastern Graians, the culminating 
point of which is the peak of 
the Grand Paradis (4,061 m., 
13,324 ft.), balances the mass of 
the Western Graians (described in 
§12), both being connected with 
the Central Graian chain by an 
isthmus. In the case of the Eastern 
Graians this isthmus is the Col de 
Nivolet, connecting the Oreo valley 
with the Val Savaranche, so that 
these two valleys form the natural S. 
and W. limits of the group, while the 
course of the Dora Baltea from 
Aymavijle, near Aosta, to Ivrea 
bounds it on the N. and E. These 
mountains are the loftiest which are 
comprised within the actual kingdom 
of Italy, but the historical fact that 
their N. slope forms part of the Duchy 
of Aosta accounts for the prevalence 
of the Burgundian tongue (now con- 
sidered a patois of literary French) in 
that portion of the group, while as 
naturally the Piedmontese dialect of 
Italian obtains in the Oreo valley on 
their S. slope. This explains the 
usage, at first sight very puzzling, by 
which the peaks and passes of this 
region sometimes bear French, some- 
times Italian names. 

Within the area indicated above 
the Eastern Graians fall naturally into 
two well-marked divisions, of unequal 
size, and separated by the stream 
(called below Cogne the Grand 9 
Eyvia) which flows W., then N.W. 
from the Fenetre de Champorcher 
past Cogne to Aymaville. 

I. To the N. of that torrent there 
rises a comparatively small group, the 
highest summits in which are the 
Mont Em ilius (3,559m., 1 1 , 67 7 ft. ) 
and the Tersiva (3,513m., 1 1 , 526 ft. ), 
the best known being the Becca di 



296 GRAIAN ALPS. § 15. GRAND PARADIS DISTRICT 



Nona (3,142 m., 10,309 ft.) As this 
group lies between Aosta and Cogne, 
the natural centre of the Eastern 
Graians, it affords many mountain 
routes from one of those places to the 
other (see Rte. B. 2. below). 

2. To the S. of 'the above-mentioned 
stream stretches the far more exten- 
sive and important main ridge, which 
runs S.W. from the Roisebanque to 
the Col de Nivolet, the chief peaks on 
it being the Punta Lavina (3,308 m., 
10,854 ft.), the Punta Sengie (3,408 
m., 11,182 ft.), the Punta Ondezana 
(3,488 m., 11,444 the Tour du 
Grand St. Piei're (3,692 m., 12,113 
ft. ), the Roccia Viva (3,650 m. , 1 1,976 
ft.), the Punta di Gay (3,623 m., 
11,887 ft-)j the Pointe de Ceresole 
{3,773 m., 12,379 ft.), the Grand 
Paradis (4,061 m. , 13,324 ft.) itself, 
the Charforon (3,665 m., 12,025 ft.), 
and the Punta Foura (3,410 m., 
11,188 ft.) The ridge on which the 
two last-named peaks rise may also 
be regarded as a S.W. spur of the 
Grand Paradis, but there are two far 
more important spurs which run out 
to the N. from the main ridge, and 
enclose the Valnontey ; at the entrance 
of which stands Cogne. The more 
easterly of these two N. spurs starts 
from the Tour du Grand St. Pierre, 
and divides the Valeille from the 
Valnontey, the chief independent 
summit on it being the Patri (3,423 
m. , 11,231 ft. ) But the more westerly 
of the two spurs is in every way more 
important. It takes its origin at the 
Grand Paradis, and separates the 
Valnontey from the Val Savaranche, 
while it is crowned by some of the 
loftiest and finest peaks in the group 
— the Petit Paradis (3,926 m., 12,881 
ft.), the Bee de Montandeyne (3,850 
m., 12,632 ft.), and the splendid 
Mont Herbetet (3,778 m., 12,396 ft.). 
It then sinks to the Col de Latizon 
(3,307 m., 10,850 ft.), to rise again 
in order to confront the great range 
of the Pennine Alps in the daring and 
beautiful peak of the Grivola (3,969 
m., 13,022 ft.), N. of which it throws 
out two arms, culminating in the 



Grand Nornenon (3,488 m. , 11,444 
ft.) and the Punta Crevasse (3,307 
m. , 10,850 ft. ) respectively, and en- 
closing between them the Nornenon 
glen, which leads down to Vieyes. Thus 
it will be seen that these great N. 
spurs projecting from the main ridge, 
together with the portion of that 
ridge stretching between the St. 
Pierre and the Grand Paradis, roughly 
form three sides of a square, whereon 
rest most of the great glaciers of the 
group — in the S.W. corner the huge 
Plan de la Tribulation, balanced on 
the S. slope of the ridge by the nearly 
equally extensive Noaschetta Glacier, 
while in the S.E. corner is the wide 
Monet Glacier, corresponding to which 
on the E. slope of the ridge is the 
snake-like Valeille Glacier. The 
N.W. flank of the Grand Paradis is 
covered by a series of considerable 
ice-fields, which may be grouped 
together as the Montandeytie Glacier, 
while its S.W. flank bears the flat 
Moncorve Glacier, so that that summit 
is not merely the loftiest in the 
district, but, appropriately enough, 
the centre of all the great ice-fields 
therein comprised. 

The village of Cogne (1,534 m., 
5.033 ft.), lying between the two 
main groups into which this great 
mountain mass naturally falls, and at 
the mouth of the most considerable 
glen included in it, is the natural 
centre of the district, and now pos- 
sesses a fair inn ; Ceresole, on the &. 
side of the region, has a first-class 
hotel, while Degioz, in the Val 
Savaranche, on the W., has a good 
inn. But, apart from Cogne, the 
best headquarters for a mountaineer 
is the large and comfortable Victor 
Emmanuel Club hut (Rte. K), at the 
S.W. foot of the Grand Paradis. 
Elsewhere, save at the Piantonetto 
Club hut, at the S. foot of the Grand 
St. Pierre, recourse must be had to 
the herdsmen, who are everywhere 
hospitable according to their means. 

This district is the only part of the 
Alps where the bouquetin {Germ. 
Steinbock ; Italian, stambecco) still 



ROUTE A. TURIN TO AOSTA BY IVREA 297 



survives in a wild state. It is re- 
served exclusively as royal game, and 
very severe penalties are enforced 
against any one killing or injuring 
the animal. Chamois also abound 
in this preserved district, wherein 
many good mule paths have been 
made in various directions for the 
king's convenience, which often serve 
the mountaineer, who should, how- 
ever, recollect that some of them lead 
up to gorges whence there is no exit 
above. Care should be taken not to 
disturb the game when the king is 
hunting. 

The flora of the Cogne district is 
particularly rich, and such plants as 
Eritrichiwn naiium, Ca??i_panula 
cenisia, Linncea borealis are by no 
means uncommon. Some valuable 
botanical information is given by 
Signor Santi in the ' Rivista Mensile ' 
of the Italian Alpine Club for March 
1896. Mountaineers will find all 
details as to routes up peaks and over 
passes in the ' Cogne ' vol. (1893) of 
the ' Climbers' Guides ' Series, which 
is accompanied by a map giving the 
names adopted in these pages ; a less 
detailed account of the district is 
contained in Signori Vaccarone, Mar- 
telli, and Bobba's ' Guida delle Alpi 
Occidental^ ' vol. ii. Parts I and 2 
(1889 and 1896). 



Route A. 

TURIN TO AOSTA EY IVREA. 

M. 

Chivasso . . . .18 
Ivrea ..... 38^ 
Pont St. Martin . . .49 
Bard \ . 52 

Verres 56^ 

St. Vincent .... 63^ 
Chatillon .... 64^ 
Nus . . . . . 72 
Aosta 80 

Rail in 4^-5 hrs. 

Chivasso, on the main line from 
Turin to Milan, is 18 m. from the 
former and 75 m. from the latter 
city, while it is 20J more to Ivrea, 
one of the most picturesque of the 
numerous little towns which mark the 
point at which the Alps sink into the 
Piedmontese plain. It is a town of 
some 10,000 inhabitants, and is mainly 
built (at a height of 234 m. , 768 ft. ) on 
a promontory above the Dora Baltea. 
The fourteenth- century Castle, now a 
prison, has an imposing appearance, 
and the entrance from the S. by a 
fine bridge over the Dora is highly 
picturesque. The geologist should 
not fail to examine the hills which 
appear to close the mouth of the 
valley below the town. They are the 
gigantic moraines of a huge glacier 
which once united the separate ice 
streams that flowed from each of the 
lateral valleys of the Pennine and 
Graian Alps into the Val d'Aosta. 

[The excursion from Ivrea to 
Biella and its environs is described in 
§ 20. Rte. K. That to the Val Chiu- 
sella, on the W. , may be briefly noticed 
here. The most important place in 
that glen is Vico Canavese, 2 hrs. by 
carriage road from Ivrea, and 12J m. 
by road from Castellamonte, which is 
26| m. from Turin direct by the 
Cuorgne railway ( Rte. I ). 3 m. beyond 
Vico the carriage road ceases at 
Traversella, the centre of the industry 
connected with the neighbouring iron 
and copper mines. Hence a mule 



298 GRAIAN ALPS. § 15. GRAND PARADIS DISTRICT 



path leads up to Fondo, or Valchiu- 
sella (1,077 m., 3,534 ft), the chief 
place in the upper valley. The Val- 
chiusella is a specially beautiful valley, 
rich in forests, streams, and all features 
needed to make it most picturesque. 
But it has hitherto been little visited by 
strangers, as there are no inns beyond 
Traversella, so that the hospitality of 
the village priests, or of the herdsmen 
on the Alpine pasturages, must be 
sought. Above the hamlet of Fondo 
the scenery is more Alpine, and, as 
might be expected from the position 
of the glen, thrust up between the 
Champorcher and Soana valleys, 
there are many passes leading from it. 
The Colle del Pra (2,687 m., 8,816 
ft. ) leads over in 5-6 hrs. to Ronco, 
and from it two of the highest peaks 
in the Val Chiusella — the M. Goiassa 
(2,870 m., 9,416 ft.) and the M. Gia- 
vino (2,817 m -j 9) 2 4 2 ft.) — may be 
ascended. At the head of the valley 
the Bocchetta delle Oche (2,406 m., 
7,894 ft. ) gives access to Pianprato, 
in the eastern branch of the Val 
Soana (6 hrs. ), and from it the Monte 
Marzo (2,750m., 9,023 ft.), the most 
striking peak in the valley, may be 
climbed by its W. slope in 1 hr. (mag- 
nificent view), or it may be reached 
in a short \ hr. from the Colle degli 
Orti (2,556 m., 8,386 ft.), on the E., 
by which Champorcher is attained in 
6 hrs. from Fondo. More to the E. 
is the Colle dei Corni (2,712 m., 
8,898 ft.), between the same places 
(6 hrs.), whence the Ci?na dei Corni 
(2,781 m. , 9,124 ft. ) is accessible in 
I hr. The Colle della Dordogna 
(2,400 m., 7,874 ft.) leads from Fondo 
to Bard in 7 hrs., and there are 
several other passes from the lower 
portion of the Val Chiusella to various 
places between Bard and Settimo 
Vittone.J 

The railway line on leaving Ivrea 
pierces by a long tunnel the promon- 
tory on which stands the town, then 
traverses a rich flat, passing on the 
right the fine castle of Montalto, and, 
beyond, the small town of Settimo 
Vittone. The chestnut gradually 



replaces the mulberry, while the 
Italian dialect of the province of 
Turin gives way to the Burgundian 
tongue, which is the historical language 
of the Val d'Aosta and its tributary 
glens. The Val d'Aosta here forms 
a nearly level floor between the hills 
that gradually subside into the plain 
of Piedmont, but it commences to be 
hemmed in between lofty ranges, 
through which flows the Dora Baltea 
before issuing from the Alps, on ap- 
proaching Pont St. Martin. This is 
the first place, and one of the most 
beautiful, in the Val d'Aosta properly 
so called. It has a lofty Roman 
bridge, and stands at the month of 
the Val de Lys (§ 20. Rte. D). 
Higher up the Dora valley is Donnas, 
where the old road passed through a 
cutting in the live rock, wherein are 
still preserved the figures * xxxvi,' 
indicating the number of Roman 
miles from Aosta by the Roman road. 
2 m. further the line, after forcing its 
way along the bed of the Dora and 
passing through a long tunnel, reaches 
Bard, a poor village at the entrance 
of the Val Champorcher (Rte. D). It 
is famous for its fort, which in 1800 
all but changed the destinies of Europe 
by barring for some days the passage 
of the valley to Napoleon and his 
army, descending from the Great St. 
Bernard. It was rebuilt in 1830, 
and is now one of the strongest forts 
on the Italian slope of the Alps. The 
valley widens on approaching Verres, 
at the entrance of the Val d'Ayas 
(§ 20. Rte. C). It is dominated by 
the splendid fourteenth-century castle 
of Challant, the former seat of the 
powerful lords of the district. It com- 
mands a noble view. Nearly opposite 
is the fifteenth-century castle of 
Issogne, the most important and best 
preserved of all the castles scattered 
throughout the Val d'Aosta. Beyond 
Verres the valley soon narrows again, 
and the way lies through a deep defile 
amidst syenitic rocks, here interposed 
between the schists at the head of the 
valley, and a zone of gneiss stretching 
from the S. side of the Graian chain 



ROUTE A. TURIN TO AOSTA BY IVREA 



to the head of the Val Sesia. A 
glimpse is caught on the right of the 
ruined castle of Montjovet or St. Ger- 
main, which commanded the old road 
through this defile, now traversed by 
the railway by means of a fine viaduct 
and several tunnels. On issuing from 
this gorge the traveller finds himself 
in the smiling basin of St. Vincent, 
surrounded by magnificent chestnut 
and walnut trees. It is known for 
its much-frequented mineral spring, 
and as the point at which the route 
over the Col de Joux to Brusson 
turns off (§ 20. Rte. I). Here the 
Dora Baltea, which has flowed about 
due E. for 25 miles, turns to the 
S.S.E. Close to St. Vincent are the 
remains of a Roman bridge. A little 
way beyond St. Vincent is Chatillon, 
at the mouth of the Val Tournanche, 
through which lies the frequented 
route to Zermatt, which, as well as 
Chatillon itself, is described in § 20. 
Rte. B. The line turns W. and 
follows the Dora past Chambave, 
which gives its name to a wine of some 
repute in Piedmont, and Fern's, above 
which there is another fourteenth - 
century castle. Through the Fenis 
glen, as well as that of St. Marcel, a 
little to the W. , easy passes lead over 
in 9 hrs. to Cogne, passing on either 
side of the fine peak of the Tersiva 
(3,513 m., 11,526 ft.) A short dis- 
tance beyond Fenis is Nus, at the 
opening of the St. Barthelemy glen 
(§ 19. Rte. G), with a sixteenth- 
century castle. Nearer Aosta the 
twelfth-century castle of Qua?-t stands 
in a commanding position on the N. 
side of the valley, and is worth visit- 
ing for the sake of the fine view 
gained thence. The country be- 
comes more and more fertile, and, 
after crossing the Buthier by a long 
iron bridge, the line reaches its pre- 
sent terminus, 

Aosta (583 m., 1,913 ft.), a small 
city which is the capital of the Duchy 
of Aosta, the last remnant of the Bur- 
gundian or original dominions of 
the present royal House of Italy. 
Hence the local tongue is not Italian, 



but a dialect of French, while the 
buildings (save the towers with open 
arcades at the top) show only Bur- 
gundian influence. It is admirably 
situated in a rich valley surrounded by 
snow-capped mountains, the glaciers 
of the Rutor being seen in one 
direction (S.W.), the precipices of the 
Mont Emilius in another (S. ), and the 
snows of the Combin in a third (N. ) 
It was founded B.C. 24 by Augustus 
(in whose honour it was named Au- 
gusta Prcetoria), on the ruins of the 
chief town of the Salassi, taken and 
destroyed by his general Terentius 
Varro. Few places in Europe have 
so well preserved the plan and the 
general character of the Roman city. 
The ramparts, forming a perfectly 
regular rectangle, are still in good 
preservation, especially on the S. 
side, on which they are most easily 
approached. The E. gate, or Porta 
Prcetoria, still exists, and a short 
distance to its E. , on the road which 
forms the principal approach to the 
city, is a splendid Triuniphal Arch, 
erected in honour of Augustus by Te- 
rentius Varro. Near it, at some dis- 
tance beyond the actual course of the 
Buthier, is a Roman bridge, which 
formerly crossed that stream, but is 
now partly buried in the soil that has 
accumulated over the ancient bed. 
There are also remains of the Amphi- 
theatre, and of several other buildings 
of Roman date, as well as many 
Roman inscriptions scattered through 
the city. Several mediaeval towers 
have been built on the Roman walls, 
of which the most remarkable are the 
Tour de Bramafan (S. side), built by 
the mighty Challant family, and the 
Tour du Lepreux (W. side), famous 
as the scene of a real tragedy, best 
known through Xavier de Maistre's 
version. The Cathedral Church (W. 
end of the city) is of no great an- 
tiquity, save the crypt, as it has been 
rebuilt ; but it contains some good 
mediaeval (not Roman) mosaics, as 
well as good fifteenth-century carved 
choir stalls and cloister, while there 
are several interesting antiquities in 



300 GRAIAN ALPS. § 15. GRAND PARADIS DISTRICT 



the sacristy. The Collegiate Chu?rh 
of St. Ursus (E. end of the city) has 
also an ancient crypt, and good carved 
choir stalls ; its twelfth-century clois- 
ters are very remarkable, one of the 
columns still bearing the date at which 
the building was commenced, 11 33. 
Among the celebrated men whose 
names are associated with Aosta it 
may suffice to name St. Anselm, 
later archbishop of Canterbury, born 
here about 1033, and his contem- 
porary St. Bernard of Menthon, 
second founder of the Hospice on the 
Great St. Bernard. The Chanoine 
Carrel, whose Meteorological Obser- 
vatory here was so well known to 
many English travellers, died in 1870, 
and six years later there passed away 
another friend of English visitors to 
Aosta, Jean Tairraz, of Chamonix, 
who built the H. du Mont Blanc, 
outside the city, which is still one of 
the most delightful inns in the Alps. 

Aosta is the meeting point of many 
routes. That over the Little St. 
Bernard (and to Courmayeur) is 
described in § 14. Rte. G ; the Great 
St. Bernard in § 18. Rte. A; the Col 
de Fenetre to the Val de Bagnes in 
§ 18. Rte. E ; the Valpelline in § 19. 
Rte. E ; the Val Savaranche in § 15. 
Rte. I ; the Val de Rhemes in § 14. 
Rte. C ; and the Val Grisanche in 
§ 14. Rte. E. 



Route B. 

AOSTA TO COGNE. 

As mentioned in the Introduction 
to this Chapter, the mountain group 
of which Mont Emilius is the culmi- 
nating point lies between Aosta and 
the village of Cogne. The usual way 
from one of those places to the other 
turns this group on the W., but 
mountaineers may find several more 
interesting routes across the moun- 



tains. It is well to start early from 
Aosta in either case, in order to avoid 
the heat of the sun as much as 
possible. 

1. By Boad (5-6 hrs. ) — Carriage 
road to Aymaville ; rough road thence 
to Cogne. From Aosta the high road 
towards Courmayeur is followed till 
just before passing under the Chateau 
of Sarre. Here a new road branches 
off, which crosses the Dora Baltea to 
Aymaville, but pedestrians can save 
J hr. by taking the steep old char road, 
which quits the high road just opposite 
Aymaville. From Aymaville a steep 
and wearisome ascent by a stony road 
leads S. round the mountain-side, 
keeping well above the Grand' Eyvia 
and the Pont d'El. 

[If coming from Courmayeur the 
pedestrian should leave the main road 
in the Aosta valley just below Ville- 
neuve, and mount by the left bank of 
the Grand' Eyvia, in shade in the 
afternoon, to the village of Pont d'El, 
whence a path ascends to the char 
road from Aymaville. By that path 
a traveller coming from Aosta can by 
a slight detour visit the very curious 
Pont d'El, which spans, at a height 
of 52 m. (171 ft), the Grand' Eyvia, 
flowing from Cogne. The arch of 
the bridge was intended to serve the 
double purpose of bridge and aque- 
duct, since below the path over it a 
vaulted gallery, which formerly served 
to convey water, is carried across the 
arch, one entrance being in the 
village, and the other on the opposite 
bank. A Roman inscription, still 
perfectly fresh, seen over the arch on 
the N. side of the bridge, records its 
construction in the thirteenth year of 
the reign of Augustus. J 

The road continues round another 
shoulder of the mountain, and passes 
by a bridge to the left bank of the 
Grand' Eyvia, just where the valley 
turns from N. to S.E. After passing 
the narrow part of the gorge the 
village of Vieyes ( 1 , 1 32 m. , 3, 7 14 ft. \ 
at the mouth of the Nonienon glen, is 
reached. 

[At the head of this glen, and 



ROUTE B. AOSTA TO COGNE 



301 



2-2-| hrs. from Vieyes, stand the 
chalets of Grand Nomenon (2,317 m., 
7,602 ft.), which command a view 
probably unsurpassed in the Alps. 
Close overhead towers the graceful 
£>eak of the Grivola, while the 
Aiguille du Geant, the Grandes Jo- 
rasses, and the Grand Combin assert 
themselves boldly in the distance. 
Hence the Cols de Mesoncles (2,916 m. , 
9,567 ft.) and de Belleface (3,098 m., 
10,165 ft.), lying respectively N. and 
S. of the fine rocky tooth of the Grand 
Nomenon (3,488 m., 11,444 ft-) — 
accessible from the former pass in 
2 hrs. — lead over to Degioz, in Val 
Savaranche, in about 5 hrs. or so. 
The traveller on his way to Cogne 
who has been tempted to make the 
much-recommended detour to these 
chalets need not return to Vieyes, but 
may cross in 3 hrs. direct from the 
huts by the Col de Trajo (2,872 m. , 
9,423 ft. ) N. of the Punta Crevasse to 
Epinel, f hr. below Cogne. J 

The road runs along the left bank 
of the stream, winding through a 
narrow gorge, and passing a fine 
waterfall, before it crosses to Epinel, 
from which the end of the Trajo 
gl. and the Punta Crevasse, 3,307 
m., 10,850 ft. (S. of the Col de 
Trajo, whence it can be best climbed 
in \\ hr. by skirting the rocky W. 
face to the last bit of the S. arete), 
are conspicuous. \ hr. higher up the 
glen is Cretaz, where the traveller 
enters on the fair green meadows of 
Cogne, that village itself being but 
J hr. distant. 

2. By the Mountains. — A pedes- 
trian has the choice of many routes 
open to him. 

(a) The shortest in point of dis- 
tance are those over the Col du Drinc 
(2,550 m., 8,366 ft.), or the Col de 
Chaz Seche (2,820m., 9,252 ft.), both 
being traversed by mule paths, and 
lying across the westernmost spur of 
the Mont Emilius group. The Dora 
is crossed by a great bridge to Char- 
vensod, from which point the ascent 
begins. Thence the mule track, 
amid near scenery and distant views 



of continually increasing beauty, 
winds to the S. up the grassy slopes 
past the Sanctuary of St. Grat, and 
the chalets of Chamole. The Drinc 
then lies to the S.W. (4J hrs. from 
Aosta), and the Chaz Seche to the 
S.E. (5 hrs. from Aosta.) The fine 
view may be further extended by 
mounting the Pointe du Drinc, 2,663 
m -j 8,737 ft. (20 min. from the pass 
of that name), whence Aosta and 
Cogne are both visible. 

From the Drinc a descent in a S.E. 
direction leads to Epinel (if hr. ), 
f hr. below Cogne. The descent from 
the Chaz Seche passes the beautifully 
situated Arpisson chalets, whence the 
main path goes by those of Chavanis 
to Epinel (2 \ hrs. from the pass), 
while a beautiful traverse to the S.E. 
leads to the hamlet of Gimilia?i, j-hr. 
above Cogne. 

(b) A mountaineer will, however, 
prefer to ascend the Becca di Nona 
or the Mont Emilius on his way to 
Cogne, spending the night at the 
Comboe chalets. These huts are best 
reached from Aosta (4 hrs. ) by a mule 
path, which turns sharply from the 
Chamole huts to the N. , and by the 
Col de Plan Fenetre (2,225 m -> 
7,300 ft.) crosses the W. boundary 
ridge of the Comboe glen, the huts 
being gained by some steep zigzags. 

[On the way from Chamole, or 
direct from the pass, the point called 
by Chanoine Carrel the Signal Sis- 
7/ionda (2,347 m., 7,700 ft.) may be 
attained in a few minutes, the view 
thence being very fine, so that those 
who fear the fatigue of the ascent of 
the Becca di Nona may content them- 
selves with visiting this belvedere, 
4 hrs. from Aosta. 3 

[Another route to Comboe, \ hr. 
longer, but even more beautiful than 
that indicated above, is described by 
Mr. Tuckett in the second Series of 
' Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers.' Taking 
a path which turns to the left above 
Charvensod, he mounted S.E. to the 
Ponce hut, at the N.E. foot of the 
ridge running N. from the Signal 
Sismonda. He then bore round the 



302 GRAIAN ALPS. § 15. GRAND PARADIS DISTRICT 



E. slope of this ridge, and entered 
the upper part of the gorge of the 
Dard or Comboe, which forms a 
beautiful cascade below the dark mass 
of the Becca di Nona, with the 
Matterhorn closing the view to the 
N. E. In the lower part of this gorge 
there are some curious natural pillars, 
figured by Mr. Jacomb in the work 
just referred to. A path leads down 
from the N. ridge of the Signal Sis- 
monda along a watercourse to the 
cascade in a green hollow, in which 
the stream is crossed to the Ponteille 
huts. Hence its E. bank is ascended, 
and a grassy ridge crossed before at- 
taining the still higher hollow in 
which are the Comboe huts. J 

The Comboe chalets (2,121 m., 
6,959 ft.), with the pasturages sur- 
rounding them, belong to the cathe- 
dral chapter of Aosta, but that for- 
merly fitted up by the late Chanoine 
Carrel for the use of travellers is not 
now available, and recourse must be 
had to the ruder quarters occupied by 
the herdsmen. It is, however, very 
advisable to break the journey here, 
if bound over either of these peaks to 
Cogne, as the Becca is 2,559 m. 
(8,396 ft.) above Aosta, and the Mont 
Emilius 2,976 m. (9,764 ft.) These 
two summits rise in the range E. of 
Comboe, but the . Mont Emilius lies 
some distance back. The head of 
the glen is closed by the Col de 
Garin (2,868 m., 9,411 ft.), the most 
convenient for a traveller on his way 
from the Becca to Cogne, while the 
Col d'Arbole (3,137 m., 10,292 ft.), 
just S. of Mont Emilius, is the best 
for a party wishing to take that peak 
on the way. 

a. By the Becca di Nona and the 
Col de Garin (c. 8 hrs. ) — There is a 
mule path (somewhat neglected of 
late) from Comboe to the summit 
(2J hrs. ), which bears first S., then 
E. at the S. foot of the promontory 
of Gros Cez by the Vaile hollow (in 
which a direct footpath from Comboe 
joins the mule track). The Italian 
Alpine Club has built close to the 
summit of the Becca di Nona (3,142 



m., 10,309 ft.) a shelter hut, called 
the Capanna Budden. It is to the 
late Chanoine Carrel, of Aosta, that 
travellers are indebted for a know- 
ledge of this admirable point of view, 
and it was the same gentleman who 
defrayed the expense of constructing 
the mule path, and who (1855 and 
i860) published a complete litho- 
graphed panorama from the summit. 
Many of our countrywomen have thus 
been enabled to enjoy this excursion, 
of which one of them has given an 
interesting account in the pleasant 
volume entitled ' Alpine Byways. ' 
The view includes the whole S. slope 
of the Pennine Alps from Mont 
Blanc to Monte Rosa, with the chain 
of the Eastern Graians. The rich 
Val d'Aosta seems to lie immediately 
at the spectator's feet. 

A traveller bound from the Becca 
to Cogne need not return to Comboe, 
but from the foot of the Gros Cez 
should bear to the left, so as to join 
the path which mounts, at the last 
steeply, to the Arbole huts and pas- 
tures (if hr. ) The head of the glen 
bends gradually E. to the Col d'Arbole 
(see 2), but the proper course is to 
keep nearly due S. by stones, past 
the lower Arbole lake (2,490 m. , 
8,170 ft.), and then through a gorge, 
sometimes filled with snow, to the 
Col de Garin (2,868 m., 9.411ft.), 
about ijhr. from Arbole. The view 
hence, says Mr. Tuckett, was one of 
unexpected sublimity. Beyond the 
deep trench of the Cogne valley the 
noble forms of the Grand Paradis and 
the Grivola are seen in full grandeur. 
The descent on the S. side lies in a 
S.W. direction at first over debris, 
and then over pastures to the Arpisson 
chalets, which are beautifully situated, 
the view from the cross near them 
towards the Grivola being considered 
by some to rival that of the Jungfrau 
from the Schilthorn. They may be 
made the object of an excursion from 
Cogne (see next Rte. ) The cow path 
descends along the torrent to Epmel, 
f hr. below Cogne, but from the 
Chavanis chalets a shorter path leads 



ROUTE B. AOSTA TO COGNE 



303 



to' the left to Cretaz, J- hr. below 
Cogne, which is thus reached in about 
3 hrs. from the pass. 

Following the advice of M. Carrel, 
the writer (J. B.) took (in 1866) 
another way from the summit of the 
Becca to Cogne, which he thinks 
worth the attention of travellers. 
Instead of descending to the foot of 
the Gros Cez, he left the ordinary 
track a few minutes below the top of 
the mountain, and bore to the left 
towards a col near a little tarn, which 
he passed on the W. side. Keeping 
the same direction, there is no diffi- 
culty in reaching (less than 1 hr. 
from the Becca) a second col over- 
looking the head of the Arbole glen. 
This rather up and down way brings 
a traveller to a point not far from the 
foot of the high snow pass called 
Pasdu Valaisan (3,194m. , 10,479ft.), 
just N. of the Pointe de Garin, but 
Mr. Ball preferred to take the route 
over the Col d'Arbole, described 
under b. 

b. By the Mont Emilins and the 
Col d'Arbole (8J-9 hrs. )— As stated 
above, the Montf Emilius (3,559 m. , 
11,677 ft.) is the highest summit in 
the mountain mass lying between 
Aosta and Cogne. The ascent is 
longer and more laborious than that 
of the Becca di Nona, while the eye 
does not plunge quite so directly into 
the Aosta valley, though the mount- 
ain panorama from the summit is 
finer than that from the Becca. The 
excursion is, however, full of interest. 
The Editor (J. B. ) has been favoured 
by notes of the ascent (probably the 
first by foreign travellers) made by 
Mr. W. Mathews and Professor 
Bonney on August 12, 1862. Start- 
ing from Comboe, the party mounted 
in a S. direction, at the last steeply, 
to the Arbole chalets (55 min. ) The 
glen here bears E. , and at its head it 
is closed by a small glacier, lying 
between the Mont Emilius on the 1. 
and the Pointe de Garin on the r. 
2 hrs. sufficed to reach the base of 
this glacier, above the upper Arbole 
lake (2,961 m. , 9,715 ft.), one of the 



highest in the Alps. In crossing this 
glacier they bore to the 1. , and, after 
mounting a steep face of rock, reached 
the S. arete of the peak, formed of 
shattered rocks, which led them in 
1 hr. from the base of the glacier to 
the summit of Mont Emilius (3,559 m., 
11,677 I n 1871 a gigantic statue 
of the Madonna was erected here. 
Prof. Bonney made (unfortunately 
for private circulation only) a pano- 
rama (part of which was given with 
former editions of this work) from the 
top, which gives some idea of the 
magnificent view which it commands. 
The precipices falling towards the 
valley of Aosta are of extraordinary 
height and steepness, and the city is 
seen apparently at the base of the 
mountain. Saxifraga bryoides and 
Androsace glacialis were found close 
to the summit. Messrs. Mathews 
and Bonney kept nearly the whole 
way along the S. ridge of the moun- 
tain till they reached, in 1 hr., its 
lowest point, the Col d Arbole 
(3,137 m., 10,292 ft.) This pass 
properly connects the Arbole glen 
with that of Lore or Laures, which 
joins the Aosta valley at Brissogne, 
about 5 m. E. of Aosta. No doubt 
the ascent of the Mont Emilius might 
be made through it direct from Aosta, 
but the height to be surmounted, 
nearly 10,000 ft., makes it advisable 
to sleep at Comboe, if it be desired to 
obtain a clear view. 

A party bound to Cogne should 
descend by the glacier on the E. side 
of the Col d'Arbole, and then bear 
round to the S. E. , so as to gain the 
Col des Laures (3,040 m. , 9,974 ft.), 
which connects the Laures glen with 
that of Grauson (35 min.) Steep 
rocks and screes lead down past the 
Lussert lakes to the head of a tribu- 
tary of the Grauson valley, whence, 
either by the marshy Susse plain on 
the E. or by rocky slopes direct, the 
Grattson huts, standing at the junction 
of that tributary glen with the main 
Grauson valley, are attained (1 hr. 
20 min. from the Col des Laures). 
The track down the Grauson valley 



GRAIAN ALPS. § 15. GRAND PARADIS DISTRICT 



runs at first high above the left bank 
of the stream , which it traverses about 
half-way down, then descending high 
above the right bank to the stone 
bridge over the Grand' Eyvia, just E. 
of the village of Cogne, which is 
reached in I J hr. from the Grauson 
chalets. 

The grand view of the Grivola, 
gained from the Col de Garin, is 
missed on the route just described, 
but the views of the Grand Paradis 
and its glaciers during the descent 
from the Col des Laures are scarcely 
less striking. 



Route C. 

EXCURSIONS AND ASCENTS FROM 
COGNE. ASCENT OF THE GRIVOLA. 

There are not many places in the Alps 
that offer so many interesting excur- 
sions and ascents within a small area 
as the village of Cogne, while it affords 
the additional attraction of a cool retreat 
from the oppressive heat of the neigh- 
bouring valley of Aosta. It stands 
in a beautiful position at a height of 
1,534 m. (5,033 ft.), at the E. corner 
of a triangular green plain, nearly 1 
mile wide, at the junction of the 
Valnontey on the S., and the Grauson 
glen on the N.E. , with the main 
valley, which descends from the 
Fenetre de Champorcher on the E., 
and is watered by the Grand' Eyvia. 
The tributary glen of Valeille, which 
is parallel with the Valnontey, joins 
the main valley at Lila, a little to the 
E. of Cogne. The view from Cogne 
through the main valley descending 
towards the Val d'Aosta is closed by 
a magnificent prospect of Mont Blanc 
himself. The Grivola is invisible 
from the village, though the Pointe 
du Pousset (3,046 m. , 9,994 ft.), its 
N.E. spur, is very conspicuous thence. 
The Grand Paradis itself can only be 



seen by going a short distance out of 
the village in an E. direction, while 
the Roccia Viva is seen on the way to 
the cemetery. Due S. of Cogne 
opens the Valnontey, the snow- 
covered peaks at the head of which 
form the great glory of the view from 
the village itself ; going from E. to 
W. the spectator sees the Pointe de 
Ceresole (3,773 m., 12,379 ft.), the 
Becca di Noaschetta, 3,447 m., 11,310 
ft. (just peering over the main ridge), 
the Tete de la Tribulation (3,642 m., 
11,949 ft-) 5 the Tete de Valnontey 
(3,543m., 11,625 ft-)j and the Tete 
de Grandcroux, E. of which is the 
well-defined depression of the Col de 
Grandcroux (3,305 m., 10,844 ft.) 

The pastures of Cogne have been 
since a very early period the property 
of the bishops of Aosta. In 1 191 the 
reigning bishop obtained permission 
from the count of Savoy to build a 
castle at Cogne, the present edifice, 
however, dating only from 1 672, 
though on the foundation of the older 
building. It is now occupied by the 
king of Italy, who owns all the 
hunting rights in the district. (The 
telegraph line is no longer reserved 
for the king's use. ) The considerable 
mines of rich iron ore N.E. of Cogne 
(there is also one of argentiferous lead 
j at the head of the Valeille) have long 
j been known. They are now aban- 
doned, not from deficiency of ore 
(for that is believed to be inexhausti- 
ble), but owing to the heavy expense 
of working at so great a height. 
They may be visited in about 2J hrs. 
from Cogne. The botanist will reap 
a rich harvest at Cogne, and should 
not neglect to visit (2-3 hrs.) the 
pastures of Chavanis (see Rte. D). 
Among other very rare plants found 
in the Cogne valley are Astragalus 
alopeairoides, Valeriana celtica, Lin- 
nma borealis, axi&Eritrichhim nanum. 

1. Walks Eound Cogne. 

One of the most beautiful short 
walks, which no traveller should omit 
to take, is that up to the village of 
Giinilian (1 hr.), on the mountain 
slope N. of Cogne. The way leads 



ROUTE C. EXCURSIONS AND ASCENTS FROM COGNE 305 



across the stone bridge a little E. of 
Cogne, and then up a series of stony 
zigzags. No spot near Cogne com- 
mands so magnificent a view of the 
peaks and glaciers that surround the 
valley. The excursion may be pro- 
longed by following a track along the 
mountain-side in a N.W. direction to 
the beautifully situated Arpisson 
chalets (1^-2 hrs. ), on the route of 
the Col de Garin (Rte. B. 2. a), 
regaining Cogne in 2 hrs. or so by 
the path leading from those chalets to 
one or other of the hamlets just below 
Cogne. The botanist will not fail to 
follow the mule path towards the 
Fenetre de Champorcher (Rte. D.) on 
theE. as far as the pastures of Chavanis 
(2-3 hrs.), even if he is not tempted 
to push on to the summit of the 
Roisebanque (see 2. below) ; the return 
to Cogne may be made by way of the 
iron mines, taking the path which 
traverses the mountain slopes above 
the lower tier of terraces N. of the 
main valley. Another pleasant ex- 
cursion is to mount by the Col de 
Lauzon mule path (Rte. H. 1) to the 
king's hunting lodge (2 J- 3 hrs. ) ; the 
return to Cogne may be made in 
3-4 hrs. by another mule path which 
crosses the Col de Pian Tsalende at 
the S.E. foot of the PuntaRossa, and 
then descends past the Vermiana huts 
to Cretaz, J- hr. below Cogne. A 
stroll up the Valnontey towards the 
foot of the glaciers at its head ( 2§ hrs. ; 
see Rte. G) may well be extended by 
mounting either to the Herbetet chalets, 
on the W. (3-J hrs. from Cogne : see 
Rte. H. 2), or to the Monei chalets, on 
the E. (2 J hrs. from Cogne : see Rte. 
F. 2), both spots commanding most 
extensive views over the glaciers at the 
head of the Valnontey. 
2. Easy Ascents. 

Those travellers who do not feel 
capable of undertaking the ascent of 
the Grivola should at least push on 
from the Pousset huts to the edge of 
the Trajo glacier (4 hrs. from Cogne). 
The view may be greatly extended by 
climbing in ij hr. from the Pousset 
huts the Pointe du Pousset (3,046 m., 

I. 



9,994 ft.), which makes such a brave 
show from Cogne, or (in I hr. from the 
edge of the glacier) the Punt a Rossa 
(3,652 m., 11,982 ft.) By keeping 
along the N. slopes of the latter 
point, or its S.W. ridge, it is perfectly 
easy to attain (ij hr. from the edge 
of the glacier) the higher Punt a Nera 
(3,692 m., 12,113 ft.), one of the 
finest belvederes in the district, and 
easily reached by any one who can 
walk over gentle snow slopes for 
I J hr. From the Punta Nera it is 
easy to gain the king's -hunting lodge 
on the Col de Lauzon path in rather 
over an hour by the S.E. slopes of 
the peak, the mule track over the Col 
des Rayes Noires (at its S. foot) being 
soon joined. But it is still better to 
push on from the summit in \ hr. by 
the ridge to the Punta Bianca (3,801 
m., 12,471 ft.), immediately at the 
S. base of the Grivola ; thence the 
Trajo glacier may be regained in 
I J- 2 hrs. by the Col de la Grivola 
(between the Grivola and the Punta 
Bianca), and the steep slate slopes on 
its E. side, or the descent effected 
towards the Val Savaranche by way 
of the W. arete of the Punta Bianca. 
From the edge of the Trajo glacier the 
bold little peak of the Grivoletta. 
(3,526 m., 11,569 ft.) can be attained 
in \\ hr. by its S.W. arete, the view 
hence of the glorious snowy N. arete 
of the Grivola, and of the glaciers at 
the N. base of that peak, being most 
striking ; Cogne may be regained by 
way of the gap on the E. " and the 
Trajo glen. 

Among the summits N. or E. of 
Cogne the Pointe de Garin (3,447 
m., 11,309 ft.) may be climbed in 
5 hrs. either by way of the Grauson 
glen and the S.E. arete or by the 
Arpisson huts and the W. arete. The 
Tour d'A rpisson ( 10, 700 ft. ) as a view- 
point rivals the Pousset. It can be 
reached in 4J hrs. from Cogne by the 
Arpisson huts and the Col de Pila, to 
its S.W., and the return made in 2 \ 
hrs. by easy couloirs to a good path 
on the W. side of the Grauson glen 
leading down directly to Gimilian. 

x 



3 o6 GRAIAN ALPS. § 15. GRAND PAR AD IS DISTRICT 



But the fine view thence obtained is 
surpassed by that from the higher and 
more favourably placed Tersiva (3,513 
m. , 1 1 , 526 ft. ) This peak is accessible 
from Cogne in about 6 hrs. by the 
Grauson glen and the N. or W. arete ; 
the return may be made by crossing the 
Col of Invergneux (2, 891 m., 9,485 ft.), 
at itsS.W. foot, to Cret, ontheFene- 
tre de Champorcher route (Rte. D). 
In either case the ascent is rather long, 
and monotonous, but the panorama 
from the summit is one of the most 
magnificent possible, the Matterhorn 
in particular being seen through the 
whole length of the Val Tournanche, 
which opens nearly due N. of the 
peak. The Punta Lavina ( 3 , 308 m. , 
10,854 ft.), at the S.E. corner of the 
Bardoney glen (Rte. E), is accessible 
in 5-5J hrs. by that glen, and the N. 
ridge, or the W. face ; the great 
feature of the view is the wide outlook 
over the Piedmontese plains on the 
S.E. Even easier than the last- 
named ascent is that of the Roisebanque 
(the name means the i white glacier'), 
3,164 m., 10,381 ft. (5 hrs.), by way 
of the Fenetre de Champorcher path 
nearly to that pass, and then along 
the W. ridge ; it is easy to descend 
from the peak in almost every direc- 
tion, while the splendid view from 
the top, and the great number of rare 
and lovely flowers found on the way 
up, should make this one of the most 
popular among the easy ascents from 
Cogne. 

3. High Ascents. 

(a) The Grivola. — To the aspiring 
mountaineer this is the grand object of 
a visit to Cogne. But although the 
Grivola (and especially its most deli- 
cate snowy N. ridge) is conspicuous in 
all distant views of this region by reason 
of its great height, 3,969 m., 13,022 
ft., and its remarkable form, it is so 
far buttressed round by minor masses 
that it is not well seen from the 
valleys of Cogne or Aosta, and this 
circumstance perhaps has been the 
cause of the neglect with which it 
was long treated by Alpine travellers. 
The direction from which its ascent 



appears least difficult is along the S. 
ridge, formed of rocks, alternating 
with very steep snow-slopes, and it 
was by this way that Mr. Tuckett 
made his attempt in 1859. (It was 
not till 1890 that Signor Bobba suc- 
ceeded in effecting this difficult route, 
keeping close to the S. ridge. ) Later 
in the same year Messrs. J. Ormsby 
and R. Bruce made the first ascent of 
the peak, starting from the Val 
Savaranche (for the route on that side 
now followed see Rte. I. below). 
Finally, in 1 861, M. Chamonin, the 
cure of Cogne, who had already made 
two attempts which served to set him 
on the right track, reached the sum- 
mit from Cogne by a route which, 
under ordinary circumstances, offers 
no great difficulties. An active 
walker can easily accomplish the 
ascent and return in a day from 
Cogne, so that there is no real need 
to make use of the poor accommoda- 
tion at the highest Pousset chalets. 
Opposite the hamlet of Cretaz [\ hr. 
below Cogne) a steep mule path 
mounts S.W. past the Lower to the 
Upper Ours huts. Here the path to 
the Vermiana huts runs S.W. , but a 
party bound for Pousset must be care- 
ful to take another, which leads in a 
N. W. direction across a ridge to the 
Pousset glen, whence a path leads past 
the Lower, up through glacier-worn 
rocks, to the Upper Pousset huts, 
2,557 m., 8,389 ft. (2J hrs. from 
I Cogne. ) The good path towards the 
I Pointe du Pousset is followed for 
1 some distance, but at a cairn it is 
! necessary to bear S.W. up steep and 
I stony slopes, by which the E. edge 
of the Trajo glacier is reached at a 
point sometimes improperly called the 
Col du Pousset, 3,206 m., 10,519 ft. 
(i-| hr. from Pousset.) Here a fine 
view of the Grivola, seen across the 
Trajo glacier, bursts on the spectator. 
Some Alpine travellers have com- 
pared the view hence with that of 
the Matterhorn seen from some points 
on the ridge of the St. Theodule Pass, 
and of the Gross Glockner, from the 
I Hohenwartscharte. The Matterhorn is 



ROUTE C. EXCURSIONS AND ASCENTS FROM COGNE 307 



altogether a more colossal peak, and in 
its dimensions, as in the plan of its 
Titanic architecture, is perhaps un- 
rivalled in the Alps, but it has not 
what in the eyes of some may be 
called the peculiar gracefulness of ; 
form that distinguishes the Grivola. 
The Gross Glockner is a far nearer : 
likeness to the Grivola, which is , 
but 561 ft. higher than the Glock- | 
ner, while the points of view 
are of about equal elevation. Both 
are pyramidal peaks, laterally com- 
pressed, so that their faces are of 
unequal width. Of the Glockner the 
S. and W. faces — of the Grivola the 
N. and N. E. faces — are snow slopes of 
extreme length and steepness, while 
the opposite faces consist mainly of 
rock. But while the Glockner, as 
seen from the S.W. , is still sharper, 
and perhaps more elegant in form, 
there is no point from which it is so 
well seen as the Grivola is from the 
E. edge of the Trajo glacier. The 
Hohenwartscharte is a point in a 
snowy ridge which rises continually 
towards the base of the pyramid, 
while from the edge of the Trajo 
glacier the nearly level surface of 
that glacier furnishes the desired con- 
trast, enabling the eye to measure the 
steepness of the peak, which rises 
2,500 ft. above the spectator. 1 

From the E. edge of the Trajo 
glacier the ice is crossed to the foot 
of the great rocky S.E. face of the 
Grivola (f hr. or less). (Travel- 
lers are strongly warned against 
being induced to try the tempting 
N.E. arete, which is extremely dim- 
cult, and takes three times as long as 

1 It may be permitted to the present 
Editor (W. A. B. C.) of this work to state 
here that, while well acquainted with the 
Grivola from all sides, it seems to him to be 
mpst majestic from the S.W. and N., 
whereas if looked at from the E. across the 
Trajo glacier it is (in his opinion) remark- 
ably stumpy, and unimpressive. He is in- 
duced to mention tbis opinion, as many 
travellers, after reading the enthusiastic 
description given by Mr. Ball in his text, 
may feel disappointed when they come to 
compare it with the reality. Such was his 
own experience, and he is not the only tra- 
veller who has been similarly disappointed. 



the usual route.) 'The ascent is 
made by mounting the long couloir 
seen most to the left from the E. 
edge of the Trajo glacier nearly to 
its summit, then crossing to the next 
couloir on the right, and going up it 
to the N.E. arete, gained within a 
short distance of the summit of the 
peak 5 (A. G. G. ) The ascent of the 
final peak from the glacier takes from 
if hr. to 3 hrs., according to the 
condition of the rocks, which are, 
under ordinary circumstances, quite 
easy, though in the gullies there is a 
certain danger of falling stones. Mr. 
W. Mathews, when making (in 1862) 
the third ascent, gathered Campanula 
cenisia at aheight of 1 2,047 ft. , while in 
1896 Mr. J. S. Masterman found Saxi- 
fraga oppositifolia at about the same 
height. The peak is composed of 
crystalline schists, in which chlorite 
and mica alternately predominate. 
Good walkers may return to Cogne 
in 4 hrs. or less. 

{b) The Grand Paradis. —The as- 
cent of this, the culminating peak 
(4,061 m., 13,324 ft.) of the entire 
chain of the Graians, is long and 
fatiguing, if made from Cogne, the 
Victor Emmanuel Club hut (at its 
W. foot) being by far the best starting 
point (see Rte. K). If the ascent be 
undertaken from Cogne it is prac- 
tically necessary to bivouac in a cave 
at the E. foot of the more southerly 
of the two great rocky spurs, which 
divide the icefalls of the very exten- 
sive Tribulation glacier. This miser- 
able shelter may be reached in 3^ hrs: 
from Cogne by following the Col de 
Grandcroux route (Rte. G) to t : ^e 
Grandcroux glacier, and then mounts 
ing over moraine to the foot of the 
spur. 2 hrs. suffice to climb up this 
spur to the great rolling plain of the 
Tribulation glacier, which is crossed 
to the E. foot of the peak in 1-2 hrs. 
more. It is generally best to make 
by several snow and rock gullies for the 
Col du Petit Paradis (the lowest point 
between the Grand and the Petit Para- 
| dis) itself, or some point on the easy 
I ridge S. of it, which is then followed to 

x 2 



308 GRAIAN ALPS. § 15. GRAND PARADIS DISTRICT 



the summit (2 J-3 hrs.) Of late years 
a favourite route (see Rte. K. 1) has 
been that first taken in 1888 by 
Messrs. Coolidge and Yeld up a great 
snow couloir (at the extreme S.W. 
corner of the Tribulation glacier and 
just W. of the Col de l'Abeille), by 
which the S. arete of the Grand 
Paradis is gained just N. of the rock 
at which the three main ridges join, 
and the usual route from the W. soon 
joined. But this route is best taken 
from the Victor Emmanuel Club hut. 
It is usually no very arduous task to 
reach the summit from Cogne, but 
the first party to make the ascent 
from this direction (Monsieur G. 
Frassy, in 1869) in the route which 
they forced from the Herbetet chalets 
to the Tribulation glacier, and on the 
ascent of the E. face (forcing a way 
to the S. of those mentioned above) 
encountered extraordinary difficulties, 
so that their recital of their adventures 
long caused this route from Cogne to 
be considered very difficult, though 
in reality it is not usually so. 

(c) The Mont Herbetet. — This 
splendid rock peak (3,778 m., 12,396 
ft.), which seems to be particularly 
liable to be struck by lightning, rises 
in the long ridge between the Grand 
Paradis and the Grivola, but, though 
first conquered in 1873 by Signor 
L. Barale, long remained unknown 
to Alpine travellers in general. Now 
it is one of the favourite ascents from 
Cogne, whence it may be reached by 
three routes, all starting from the 
Herbetet chalets, 3J hrs. from Cogne 
by the route of the Col de l'Herbetet 
(Rte. H. 2). The easiest route, pro- 
bably, is to gain (in 2 \ hrs. ) the South 
Col de l'Herbetet, and then in 2 hrs. 
more to climb up the rocky N. arete 
to the summit. A better scramble is 
afforded by the E. arete, of which 
the foot is attained in 2 hrs. from the 
chalets, and which is then followed 
(rocks good and firm) in 3-4 hrs. more 
to the top. Yet a third route (first 
discovered in 1895) * s to g° from the 
Herbetet huts to the Col Bonney 
(3 hrs. ), just S. of the peak, and then 



to clamber up and around the jagged 
S. arete to the summit (2-3 hrs. J 
Mountaineers thus have a choice of 
routes for taking this very grand peak 
on their way from Cogne to Degioz, 
in Val Savaranche. 

(d) The Tour du Grand St. Pierre. 
— This pyramidal point (3,692 m., 
12,113 ft-) r i ses at the S.E. corner of 
the Valnontey, thus balancing the 
Grand Paradis at the S.W. corner of 
that glen. It was first attained in 1867 
by Messrs. Freshfield, Tucker, Car- 
son, and Backhouse, and the route 
taken by them was long the usual 
one from Cogne. It involves, how- 
ever, a great detour, as it is necessary 
to mount the Valeille nearly to the 
Col de Teleccio (Rte. F), hrs. 
from Cogne, and then to climb up in 
1 hr. to the N. ridge, by which (some 
smooth rocks) the summit is attained 
in hr. more, according to the 

condition of the rocks. The view is 
extremely fine, especially towards the 
Piedmontese plains. It was only in 
1 89 1 that the true direct route up 
j this peak from Cogne was first 
I effected. The pastures of Monei are 
gained (20 min. may be saved by 
passing N. of them, if the Monei 
huts have not been used as sleep- 
ing quarters) in 2 \ hrs. by the Col 
de Monei route (Rte. F), which is 
followed till near the N.W. foot of 
the peak (3 hrs.) The rocks on the 
N. edge of the great snow wall 
between the St. Pierre and the Tour 
j St. Andre, just N. of it, are scaled to 
! the N. arete, on which the route 
! from the Col de Teleccio is joined ; 
' probably 2J-3 hrs. suffice for the 
ascent from the Monei glacier. The 
summit may also be reached in about 
5 hrs. from the Col de Monei itself, 
over the many towers on the rocky 
W. arete. (For the way up the S. 
face from the Piantonetto Club hut 
see Rte, F.) 



ROUTE D. COGNE TO BARD 



309 



Route D. 

COG^E TO BARD BY THE FENETRE 
DE CHAMPORCHER. 

9~9§ hrs. by mule path. 

For those who have already visited 
Aosta, and who wish to approach 
the Italian valleys of Monte Rosa by 
another route from Cogne, this way 
will afford a pleasant variation. It is 
quite easy, as it is traversed by one of 
the king's hunting paths (said not to 
be very well kept up). It was formerly 
known under the name of Fenetre de 
Cogne. 

The valley path is followed from 
Cogne in a S.E. direction along the 
left bank of the stream, till it crosses 
to the hamlet of Champlong, on the 
opposite bank. Soon after the open- 
ing of the Valeille is seen on the S. 
Pedestrians do well to take a steep 
and stony path above the right bank, 
which passes by the chapel of Cret 
(many rare flowers here — hence to the 
Grauson valley and Tersiva by the 
Gol dTnvergneux, Rte. C. 2), and the 
Ponton lake. But the king's mule path 
descends (half-way between Champ- 
long and Cret) to the stream, crosses 
it to Bose, and continues on the 
left bank, making a long round by 
the entrance of the Bardoney glen. 
In either case the chalets on the 
Chavanis pastures (famous for rare 
flowers) are reached in about 
2^3 hrs. from Cogne (it being neces- 
sary to traverse the torrent from 
Cret, if the foot path has been fol- 
lowed). Near these chalets, on stony 
slopes of debris, is one of the very 
few known habitats of a curious plant, 
J&thionema Tho7?iasianum. 2 hrs. 
from Chavanis, past the Brouillot 
huts, suffice to attain the pass (2,838 
m -i 9>3 11 ft.) ? a mere notch in the 
ridge. The view hence of the Grand 
Paradis is one of the finest in this part 
of the range. In the opposite direc- 
tion the rugged summits on the ridge 



separating the Champorcher glen from 
that of Soana are more striking than 
might be expected from their rela- 
tively moderate height. 

The mule path on the other side 
descends by soft and rather slippery 
soil to a dreary plateau watered by 
glacier streams, above which on the 
S. is the Miserin lake (whither a 
branch path leads up), with the chapel 
of N. D. de la Neige on its shore. The 
Dondena huts are passed (hence the 
M. Glacier, 3,186 m., 10,453 ft., on 
the N. , may be ascended in 3 hrs. by 
way of the Col Fussi, on its S.W. , 
which gives access by a hunting path to 
the Fenis glen). Soon after the mule 
path (the foot path keeps high above 
the left bank all the way to Champor- 
cher) descends by many zigzags to 
cross a promontoiy (hence the whole 
length of the Champorcher glen is 
overlooked), and by more zigzags 
reaches (2-2 \ hrs. from the pass) 
Champorcher (1,427 m., 4,682 ft.), 
the chief hamlet in the glen of that 
name. 

[Hence many passes lead in differ- 
ent directions. The Colle degli Ort'i, 
and the Colle dei Corni, whence 
the Monte Marzo and the Cima dei 
Corni respectively may be ascended, 
lead over in 6 hrs. to the Val Chiu- 
sella, described in Rte. A. The Colle 
Larizza or della Reale (2,605 m. , 
8,547 ft. ) and the Col de Santanel 
(2,540 m. , 8,334 ft.) give easy access 
in 7-8 hrs. to Pia?tprato, at the head 
of the E. arm of the Val Soana, 
and about if hr. above Ronco (see 
Rte. E). A traveller bound direct 
to Aosta may profitably reach Verres 
in 3 hrs. ' from Champorcher by the 
Col de Plan Fejtetre.^ 

The village of Champorcher is 
8 miles (2-J-3 hrs.) by a mule path 
through the Champorcher glen (de- 
scribed by Mr. King in his ' Italian 
Valleys of the Pennine Alps ') from 
Bard, in the Val d' Aosta, now a station 
on the railway from Aosta to Turin 
(Rte. A). 



3 io GRAIAN ALPS. § 15. GRAND < PARADIS DISTRICT 



Route E. 

COGNE TO PONT CANAVESE BY THE 
VAL SOANA. 

, On the S. E. flank of the Eastern 
Graians the principal valley is that of 
Soana, which joins the great valley of 
the Oreo (Rte. I) at Pont Canavese. 
The Soana valley is formed by the 
union of three Alpine glens near 
Ronco, 956 m. , 3,137 ft. (7 miles by 
a good char road, through a most 
picturesque glen, from Pont Cana- 
vese.) The most easterly of these 
(that of Pianprato) was briefly noticed 
in the last Rte., as through it de- 
scends the path from Champorcher 
over the Colle Larizza or della Reale. 
Several passes lead from Cogne 
through the central arm (that of 
Campiglia) to Ronco, while the most 
westerly arm (that of Forzo) is con- 
nected with Cogne by passes from 
both the Bardoney and the Valeille 
gien. The usual routes between 
Cogne and Ronco are by the Colle 
della Nouva and the Col de Bardoney, 
the passes from the Valeille being 
fitted for mountaineers only. 

1. By the Colle della Nouva 
(8J hrs. to Ronco). — This pass is also 
called the Col de V 'Arietta, but its 
proper name is Nouva, as in the 
Middle Ages it was called i Fenes- 
tra Nova,' to distinguish it from the 
Fenetre de Champorcher. There is 
a royal hunting path over it, but it is 
in a ruinous condition. The Fenetre 
de Champorcher route (Rte. D) is 
followed to the Brouillot huts (3 hrs. ), 
whence the ruined track leads up in 
a S.E. direction in i\ hr. between 
two small glaciers to the pass (2,933 
m. , 9,623 ft.), a mere window in the 
ridge, whence Turin is seen. The 
pass commands a very grand view of 
the range of Mont Blanc, on one side, 
and on the other looks over the Val 
Soana to the plain of Piedmont, and 
the Montferrat hills, beyond Turin. 
By mounting a couple of hundred | 



feet to a knoll on the W. of the 
pass, this view becomes a panorama 
which includes many of the principal 
peaks of the Pennines and the Eastern 
Graians. 

Many zigzags lead down tc the Cam- 
piglia glen, the village of Campiglia 
being gained in 3 hrs. from the pass, 
and Ronco in 1 hr. more. Above Cam- 
piglia the botanist may find many in- 
teresting plants, among which Sapo- 
naria lutea and Silene vallesia are 
conspicuous, while walnut trees are 
seen half-way between the hamlet of 
Campiglia (1,350 m., 4,429 ft. ) and 
Ronco (956 m., 3,137 ft.), an unusual 
height. There are several other passes 
from the Bardoney glen into the Cam- 
piglia glen, but that most to the S. W. , 
the Col des Eaux Rouges, is alone of 
importance to mountaineers, as thence 
the Punta Lavina (3,308 m., 10,854. 
ft. ) may be ascended in 1 hr. 

2. By the Col de Bardoney (8 hrs. 
to Ronco). — The Bardoney glen runs 
from N. to S. on the W. side of the 
Punta Lavina, and is separated from 
the Valeille on the W. by a little- 
known ridge. The entrance of the 
Bardoney glen is reached from Cogne 
by following the king's hunting path 
towards the Fenetre de Champorcher 
(Rte. D) till near a fine waterfall, 
when another track on the left bank 
of the Bardoney torrent leads S. up 
to the Bardoney chalets (3 hrs. from 
Cogne). The way then lies due S. 
up the glen, stones and a small glacier 
giving access to that pass (2,833 m., 
9,295 ft.) in 2 hrs. from the chalets. 

£The ascent of the Lavina from this 
glen has been noticed in Rte. C. 2. 
The peak of the Graiide Arolla 
(3,302 m., 10,834 ft.), just W. of the 
pass, and at the point of junction of 
the Bardoney, Valeille, and* Forzo 
glens, may be reached from the Col 
de Bardoney in 1J-2 hrs., either by 
its N.E. face or by its E. ridge. The 
view is interesting as commanding the 
rarely visited glaciers at the S.E. 
corner of the Valeille. S. of this peak 
the Col de la Mural lie Rouge (3,195 
m., 10,483 ft.) connects the Arolla 



ROUTE E. COGNE TO PONT CANAVESE BY VAL SO ANA 311 



glacier with the head of the Forzo 
glen.] 

The first part of the descent from 
the pass lies down a small gully, and 
then it is necessary to keep S.E. 
along the left bank of the torrent 
in the Forzo glen, till the high road is 
reached, a little below Ronco (3 h. ) 

3. By the Col de Forzo (9-10 hrs. 
to Ronco). — This is a roundabout 
way, but it enables the enquiring 
traveller to see something close at 
hand of the Monveso and Arolla 
groups. The route on the Cogne 
side is the same as that to the Col de 
Teleccio as far as the huts in the 
Valeille. The way then lies S.E. , 
traverses the lower part of the great 
spur (not shown on the Italian map) 
which divides the Arolla glacier on 
the N.E. (over which passes the route 
to the Col de la Muraille Rouge) and 
the Sengies glacier on the S.W. The 
pass (3,185 m. , 10,450 ft.) is reached 
without difficulty by the latter glacier. 

[Hence the Monveso di Forzo 
(3,319 m., 10,890 ft.), on the S.W., 
can be climbed in j hr. by its snowy 
N. arete, or the Punt a Forzo 
(3,302 m., 10,834 ft.), on the N.E., 
in I hr. by its S. arete. Both sum- 
mits command interesting views of a 
little-known corner of the Alps. J 

A great couloir, filled with shifting 
stones and snow, leads down to the 
route of the Col de Bardoney, a little 
on the Forzo side of that pass. 

[W. of the Monveso is the Colle di 
Monveso (3,164 m., 10,381ft.), also 
reached on the Cogne side over the 
Sengies glacier, another steep couloir 
leading on the S. to the Plan delle 
Mule huts, in a side valley, which 
joins the Forzo glen at the hamlet of 
Forzo.] 

4. By the Col des Sengies (10 hrs. 
to Ronco). — Two passes bear this 
name. The more northerly (3,338 m. , 
10,952 ft.) lies just at the S.W. foot 
of the Point e des Sengies, 3,408 m., 
11,182 ft. (easily accessible hence or 
by the N.W. ridge from the Sengies 
glacier. ) The more southerly ( 3 , 206 m. , 
10,519 ft.) lies at the S. corner of 



the Valeille glacier. Each is easily 
gained from the Valeille glacier, at 
the head of the Valeille glen, the 
descent from either lying over the 
Ciardonei glacier, and past the Pian 
delle Mule huts. 

[At the W. extremity of the Ciar- 
donei glacier is the broad snow gap of 
the Col de Ciardonei (3,161m., 10,37 1 
ft.), by which access is gained to the 
Soera glen, a tributary of the Pianto- 
netto valley. But a party bound from 
the Col de Ciardonei to the Pianto- 
netto Club hut at the head of the glen 
of that name should from the pass cross 
due W. , by two gullies, the Bocchetta 
d' 1 Ondezana, a gap just at the S. foot 
of the Ondezana peak, thus gaining 
the very head of the Piantonetto 
valley. 3 

From the S. Col des Sengies it is 
easy to climb via the Col de Ciardonei 
in I J hr. the lower or W. peak (3,328 
m., 10,919 ft.) of the Monte Gialin, 
or Uja di Ciardonei, and the higher 
or E. summit (3,332 m. , 10,932 ft. ) in 
I hr. more by way of the ridge con- 
necting them ; it is, however, simpler 
to ascend direct from the Ciardonei 
glacier to the gap, Colle delle Uje, 
between them, whence both are easily 
attained. 

Detailed information, based on per- 
sonal experience, is much desired as 
to the relatively unknown ridge 
which divides the Forzo glen on the 
E. from the Piantonetto valley on 
the W. 



Route F. 

COGNE TO LOCANA BY THE VAL 
PIANTONETTO. 

As was pointed out in the Intro- 
duction to this Section, the extensive 
Monei Glacier, at the S.E. corner of 
the Valnontey, is balanced on the E. 
by the more sinuous, though less im- 



312 GRAIAN ALPS. § 15. GRAND PARADIS DISTRICT 



portant, Valeille Glacier, at the head 
of the side glen of that name, the 
peak of the Tour du Grand St. Pierre 
and its N. ridge alone separating 
these two glacier basins. Both give 
access by not very difficult glacier 
passes to the head of the narrow Val 
Piantonetto, which joins the Val 
d'Orco at Perebecche, a little way 
above Locana. To a modern moun- 
taineer the way through the Val- 
nontey and over the Col de Monet 
would seem the most direct route 
from Cogne to Locana, but in the 
Middle Ages glacier difficulties were 
circumvented as far as possible, and 
hence when the men of Cogne wished 
to make use of the pastures at the 
head of the Val Piantonetto, granted 
to them in the thirteenth century by 
their lord, the bishop of Aosta, they 
.preferred the roundabout way through 
the Valeille and over the Col de 
Teleccio. Nowadays climbers visiting 
this district will cross one or other 
pass mainly for the sake of establish- 
ing their headquarters at the Pian- 
tonetto Club hut, at the S. foot of the 
Tour du Grand St. Pierre, in order 
to explore the neighbouring peaks, 
still known to but few English 
travellers. 

1. By the Col de Teleccio (10 hrs. 
to Locana). — The Valeille is the 
most considerable of the side glens in 
the valley of the Grand' Ey via, which 
join that valley E. of Cogne. A 
king's hunting path leads from Cogne 
along the left bank of the Grand' 
Eyvia, crosses the stream to Champ- 
long, and recrosses to Li la before 
entering the A'aleille, but pedestrians 
should remain on the left bank and 
take a short cut above Lila to rejoin 
this path. It continues to mount the 
narrow and stony Valeille glen to its 
head, just at the foot of the glacier 
(3 hrs. from Cogne). Hence the 
Valeille glacier must be ascended in 
all its winding course, the pass (a 
broad snow opening slightly S.W.) 
being hid (like the St. Pierre) till the 
traveller is quite near it. 2J-3 hrs. 
suffice to reach the pass (3,326 m. , 



! 10,913 ft.) from the foot of the 
I glacier. 

[Hence the Tour du Grand St. 
\ Pierre (3,692 m., 12,113 ft.), on the 
I W. , can be climbed in i-|-2f hrs. by 
mounting an easy couloir to the N. 
I ridge, by which the summit is gained 
in a longer or shorter time, according 
; to the condition of the final rocks. 
A shorter climb from the Col is that 
of the Ondezana (3,488 m., 11,444 ft.), 
I on the S.E. , which takes § hr. by the 
steep S.W. rocky flank, on which an 
amusing scramble is to be had. Both 
peaks command grand views, espe- 
cially towards the Piedmontese plains. J 
On the Oreo side of the pass there 
is the short Teleccio glacier, the upper 
bit of which is easy. Lower down it be- 
comes crevassed. At this point a party 
bound for the Club hut (see under 2) 
must leave the ice on its right bank, and 
bear S.W. , descending a steep rocky 
barrier to the hut, reached in 2 hrs. 
from the Col. But if bound for Locana 
the traveller must quit the glacier on 
\ its left bank in about 20 min. from 
: the Col, and descend by stones in 
1 I hr. more to the upper hollow in the 
Val Pianto?ietto, where stand the 
1 chalets called Muanda di Teleccio 
(2,216 m., 7,271 ft.), used as night 
quarters by some explorers before the 
construction of the Club hut. A 
steep barrier separates this hollow 
from that of Teles sio. The stream is 
\ crossed several times, and many 
chalets and hamlets passed before 
the road in the Val d'Orco is reached 
at Perebecche, 2 m. above Locana, 
I which is 3-4 hrs. distant from the 
I Muanda huts. 

2. By the Col de Monei (11-12 hrs. 
to Locana). — This easy glacier pass 
I lies over the ridge stretching W. from 
I the Tour du Grand St. Pierre, and 
• was first traversed by Mr. W. Mathews 
and Professor Bonney in 1863. 

The mule path along the right bank 
! of the torrent in the Valnontey is 
followed up that glen, past the hamlet 
; of Valnontey and the chalets of 
! Vermiaiia, till a little way beyond 
1 the latter (about i^-hr. from Cogne) 



ROUTE F. COGNE TO LOCANA BY VAL PIANTONETTO 313 



it is necessary to leave the main path. 
A rough and steep cattle track then 
mounts S.E. to the Monet pastures in 
1 hr. The Monei huts lie 20 min. 
to the S., but there is no need to go 
to them if it is intended to cross the 
pass. The right moraine of the N. 
bit of the great Monei glacier is 
ascended till it is easy to get on to 
the ice, over which a great circuit 
must be made by its E. portion round 
the foot of the Cresta Paganini, the 
general direction being S. 

[The gap of the Coupe de Monei 
(3,382 m., 11,096 ft.) is seen on the 
left ; it leads over to the head of the 
Valeille. From the Coupe the Patri 
(3,423 m., 11,231 ft.), on the N., 
can be climbed by the glacier on its 
W. shoulder, or the Tour St. Ours 
(3,583 m., 11,756 ft.), on the S., in 
if hr., and the Tour St. Andre 
(3,630m., 11,910 ft.) in rather more. 
It is not hard to go down from the 
latter point by rocks to the point on 
the N. ridge of the Tour du Grand 
St. Pierre, generally reached when 
ascending that peak by the usual 
route from the Col de Teleccio : see 
under 1. above. J 

The Col de Monei (3,428 im, 1 1,247 
ft.) is thus attained in 3^ hrs. from 
the pastures. 

[From the pass the Tour du Grand 
St. Pierre (3,692 m. , 12, 1 13 ft. ) can be 
climbed in 5 hrs. by the many-towered 
W. rock ridge. J 

One or other of several snow and 
stone gullies leads down on the S. side 
to the great stone -strewn shelf, on the 
S. edge of which (1 hr. from the pass) 
is the Piantonetto dub hut (2,786 
m. , 9, 141 ft. ), whence it is f hr. to the 
Muanda di Teleccio huts (see above). 

The Club hut, though small, and 
locked (the key must be brought from 
Cogne, Degioz, or Ceresole^ is very ad- 
vantageously placed for climbers, since 
from it many ascents may be made 
in a comparatively short time. The 
chief is that of the Tour du Grand St. 
Pierre (3,692 m., 12,113 ft. ), acces- 
sible in 4J hrs. by way of the Telec- 
cio glacier, and the rocks of the W. 



I bit of the S. face. S.W. of the hut 
I rise three fine rocky pinnacles known 
j as the Becchi delta Tribulazione (the 
j S.most and highest is 3,360 m. , 
11.024 ft.), which form the delight of 
I rock-climbers, by whom any of them 
I may be gained in 5-6 hrs. from the 
; Club hut. 1 hr. N.W. of the Club 
hut, and reached by many stones, is 
; the secluded little glacier of Roccia 
Viva, guarded by the Ptmta di Gay 
I (3,623 m., 11,887 ft-)» the Roccia 
Viva (3,650 m., 11,976 ft.), the Ju- 
j ?7ieaux de la Roccia Viva (3,589 m., 
i n,775 ft-)) the Bee de la Patience 
\ (3,604 m., 11,825 ft.), the Tete de 
Monei (3,564 m., 11,693 an d the 
Monte Nero (3,391 m., 11,126 ft.) 
(See the view from this glacier given 
in the 'Alpine Journal,' vol. xvii. ) 
Any of these summits can be reached 
from the Club hut in from 3 to 4 hrs. 
The Roccia Viva is climbed by a 
great couloir in its S.E. flank, the top 
of the peak being formed by a small 
frozen lake, in a kind of crater, and 
invisible from any other point. The 
Monte Nero, whether by its E. or W. 
face, affords a good rock-climb. The 
other peaks are attained by a rock 
climb from the head of the glacier, 
save the Punta di Gay, which is as- 
cended in 1 j- hr. from the gap at its 
S. foot, the Bocchetta di Gay. This 
last-named mountain may be easily 
taken on the high-level traverse from 
the Club hut (if the peak is not 
climbed it is shorter to cross the 
Bocchetto della Losa, some way 
farther S. ) by the Noaschetta glacier 
and the Col du Grand Paradis to the 
Victor Emmanuel Club hut, 7 hrs. 
direct (see Rte. K). 



3H GRAIAN ALPS. § 15. GRAND PARADIS DISTRICT 



Route G. 

COGNE TO CERESOLE BY THE 
COL D£ GRANDCROUX. 

Just S. of the village of Cogne 
opens the Valnontey, at the very head 
of which is a deeply cut depression, 
extremely conspicuous from Cogne, 
and obviously forming the shortest way 
thence to Ceresole (12 J hrs. ) Hence 
this pass was traversed, and christened 
Col de Grandcroux, as far back as 
1862, by Mr. F. F. Tuckett. One 
of the king's hunting paths leads all 
the way up the Valnontey, past the 
hamlet of Valnontey and the chalets 
of Ver?7iiana, beyond which it crosses 
to the left bank of the torrent. The 
point at which another hunting path 
to the Herbetet chalets (see Rte. H) 
bears to the N. is gained in 2§ hrs. 
from Cogne, and soon after the main 
path must be quitted (as it goes S.E. 
to a hunters' shelter at the foot of the 
Monei glacier) in order to mount by 
moraine to the N. Grandcroux glacier 
(fhr. ) The first party encountered 
great difficulties in forcing a way 
through the seracs, but as a rule they 
are not difficult, and can always be 
turned by rocks on the E. The 
final snow or ice slope leading up to 
the pass is very steep, and is best 
attacked on its E. edge. The pass 
(3,305 m. , 10,844 ft-) is gained in 
about 4 hrs. from the foot of the 
glacier, or rather over 7 hrs. from 
Cogne. Hence the Grivola and the 
Grand Paradis are concealed by in- 
tervening ridges, but the Pennine 
chain on the N. from the Mont Velan 
to Monte Rosa, and on the S. many 
peaks of the Graian and Cottian Alps 
compensate for their absence. There 
is a very striking view of Cogne seen 
through the Valnontey. 

[From the Col the Punt a di Gay 
(3,623 m. , 11,887 ft.), on theE., may 
be climbed in about 2 hrs. either by 
its rocky S.W. face or direct by 
steep rocks. From the S. Grand- 



croux glacier, just on the S. side of 
the pass, it is easy to mount in § hr. 
to the snowy opening of the Col de 
Valnontey (3,535 m. , 11,598 ft.), lead- 
ing to the great Tribulation glacier ; 
from this pass the Tete de Valnontey 
(3,543 m., 11,625 ft.), on the N.E., 
can be climbed in 5 min. , the Tete de 
la Tribulation (3,642 m., 11,949 ft.), 
on the S.W. , in under 1 hr. ; by a 
traverse to the notch between the 
latter point and the Becca di Noa- 
schetta (3,447 m., 11,310 ft.), on its 
S.E. , the last-named peak may be 
gained in \ hr. from the Col de Val- 
nontey, the view thence being odd, as 
the Becca just peers over the main 
ridge towards Cogne, whence it is 
visible. J 

Some easy rocks (best at the W. 
j end) lead down to the flat S. Grand- 
croux glacier, from which a descent, 
rather to the right (crossing at right 
angles the high-level route from the 
Piantonetto Club hut to the Victor 
Emmanuel Club hut, Rte. F. ), leads 
down into an upland plain, whence a 
royal hunting path on the right bank 
of the torrent guides the traveller over 
a low shoulder and past the Motta 
and Goj huts to the Bruna huts, on a 
second plain (1 hr. from the Col de 
Grandcroux). Hence Noasca^ in the 
Oreo valley below Ceresole, may be 
reached in 2^-3 hrs. by paths on 
either side of the stream, and this is 
the most direct route. Ceresole itself 
lies a good way to the S.W., and 
may be gained most easily in 4 hrs. 
from Bruna by a royal hunting path, 
which makes a great round to the W. , 
traversing two low passes, and passing 
one of the royal hunting lodges before 
descending to the Oreo valley. In 
fact the chief difficulty on the S. side 
of the Col is the multiplicity of such 
paths, leading in all directions, and 
all ultimately attaining the Oreo 
valley, though often by immense 
detours. 

A longer and more devious route 
from Cogne to Ceresole is to reach 
(5J-6 hrs. from Cogne by the way up 
the Grand Paradis, Rte. C. 3.. b) 



ROUTE H. COGNE TO THE VAL SAVARAXCHE 315 



the great Tribulation glacier, and 
thence cross one of three passes over 
the ridge bounding it on the S., thus 
reaching in 2-3 hrs. the extensive 
Noaschetta glacier on its S., and then 
descending to Ceresole by way of the 
Motta hut hr.), on the Col de 
Grandcroux route, described above. 
But these passes are most conveniently 
described in Rte. K. 2. in connection 
with the ascents of the peaks separat- 
ing them, which are best ascended 
from the Victor Emmanuel Club hut. 



Route H. 

COGNE TO THE VAL SAVARANCHE. 

As the Valnontey is parallel to the 
Val Savaranche, while a considerable 
bit of the Grand' Eyvia glen, below 
Cogne, is also roughly parallel "to the 
Val Savaranche, it is clear that there 
are many ways of reaching the last- 
named valley open to a traveller 
starting from Cogne. The ardent 
climber will prefer to traverse the 
Grivola (see Rte. C. 3. &, and Rte. I, 
under Degioz), or the Mont Herbetet 
(Rte. C. 3. c), or even the Grand 
Paradis (ibid. and Rte. K). 

Others may choose the route N. of 
the Grivola by the Cols de Trajo and 
de Mesoncles, climbing perhaps the 
Punta Crevasse (3,307m., 10,850 ft.) 
from the former, or the Grand Nome- 
non (3,488 m., 11,444 ft.) from the 
latter (see Rte. B. 1). But less 
enterprising travellers may cross one 
of two other passes, both easy and 
pretty direct. 

1. By the Col de Lauzon (7 hrs. ; 
mule path). — This pass (3,301 rri., 
10,831 ft.) is traversed by a royal 
hunting path, one of the highest mule 
tracks probably in the Alps. This 
leaves the Valnontey at the hamlet of 
that name, 35 min. from Cogne, and 
zigzags high above the left bank of 



the Lauzon stream, till it reaches an 
upland hollow (2J-3 hrs. from 
Cogne), wherein stands the king's 
hunting lodge (2,588 m., 8,491 ft.) 

[For the ascent of the Punta Nera 
hence see Rte. C. 2. and for the 
passage of the Col de Pian Tsalende, 
ibid. 1. On the S.W. the Pant a del 
Tuf (3,416 m., 11,208 ft.) maybe 
reached in 2 hrs. by its rocky N.E. 
ridge, or the higher Gran Sertz 
(3,510 m., 11,516 ft.), in 2J-3 hrs. 
by the Lauzon glacier and the E. 
ridge. 3 

The ascent continues in a W. direc- 
tion, finally by a long series of short 
zigzags, the pass being gained in 
under 2 hrs. from the royal hunting 
lodge. It is a narrow opening. Simi- 
lar zigzags lead down slopes of black 
shale to the Leviona hollow {i\ hr. ; 
I for the route hence to the Victor 
Emmanuel Club hut see Rte. K. 1), 
which is traversed to the little chapel 
at its W. end ( J hr. ) The mule path 
makes ajgreat round to the S.,, reach- 
ing the/ Val Savaranche at Maison- 
nasse, but a pedestrian can gain 
Degioz, the chief village in the 
valley, in about 1 hr. by a steep path 
in a W. direction, through the woods 
on the left bank of the Leviona stream, 
crossing that stream to Tignet, a little 
above Degioz. 

2. By the Col de 1' Herbetet (8 hrs. ) 
— This is an easy glacier pass, but more 
roundabout than the Lauzon, though 
the scenery is far finer. The Col de 
Grandcroux route (Rte. G) is followed 
up the Valnontey, till a royal hunting 
path branches off from it (2§ hrs. 
from Cogne), and doubles back to the 
N. , above a high cliff, to the Herbetet 
chalets ^ '2,422 m., 7,947 ft. (1 hr. ) 
The path continues hence in a N.W. 
direction to a hunters' shelter, so 
that the traveller bound for the Col 
must take care to quit it before that 
point, in order to mount due W. to 
the Herbetet glacier {\\ hr. ), over 
which the pass is easily reached in 
I hr. more. There are two gaps, 
but that to the S. is only used by 
those bent on the ascent hence of the 



316 GRAIAN ALPS. § 15. GRAND PARADIS DISTRICT 



Mont Herbetet, 3.778 m., 12,396 ft. 
(2hrs.) That to the N. (3,257 m., 
.10,686 ft.) is used by parties bound 
for the Val Savaranche ; from it the 
Gran Sertz (3,510 m., 11,516 ft. ) can 
be climbed by the S. ridge in about 
I hr. 

The descent on the W. side of the 
pass lies over the easy Grand Neiron 
glacier, and then down a royal hunt- 
ing path in a N.W. direction to the 
Leviona hollow (i\ hr. ), whence the 
Col de Lauzon track is followed to 
Degioz, a good hour further. 

By bearing S.W. from the Her- 
betet chalets across the lower end of 
the E. ridge of the Mont Herbetet 
to the Dzasset glacier, either the Col 
Bonney (3,594 m., II ,7 '92 ft.) orthe 
Fenetre de Dzasset (3,641 m. , 
11,946 ft.), at the head of that 
glacier, may be gained in 3 hrs. or 
so, but the descent on the W. is in 
each case harder than that from the 
Col de PHerbetet. 



Route I. 

AOSTA TO TURIN BY THE COL DE 
NIVOLET. 

Carriage road to Villeneuve ; mule 
track thence (about 13 hrs.) to 
Noasca ; carriage road to Cuorgne, 
and railway thence to Turin. 

In the Introduction to this Section 
it was pointed out that the Col de 
Nivolet forms a sort of isthmus by 
which the mass of the Eastern 
Graians is connected with the Central 
Graians, while, as it leads from the 
Val Savaranche to the valley of the 
Oreo, the track across it forms the W. 
and S. limits of the Eastern Graians. 
It is a frequented route, and a very 
easy though a long one, but not very 
interesting to a mountaineer save as 
a means of reaching various good 



headquarters whence many ascents 
may be made. 

The carriage road towards the 
Little St. Bernard Pass (§ 14. Rte. G) 
is followed from Aosta up the 
valley of the Dora Baltea as far as 
Villeneuve (6m.), which stands not 
far from the junction of the mountain 
torrents flowing from the Val Sava- 
ranche and the Val de Rhemes. A 
fatiguing paved mule path mounts 
steeply on the right bank of the Val 
Savaranche torrent, and leads up to 
a point at a great height above the 
Val d' Aosta, overlooking that valley 
and the lower end of the Val de 
Rhemes, richly wooded and set with 
orchards and corn fields, with the 
range of Mont Blanc in the back- 
ground. Higher up the track runs 
at a great height above the narrow 
ravine through which the Savara 
roars, passes several hamlets and 
groups of chalets, and after crossing 
and recrossing the stream emerges 
into the small basin wherein stands 
Degioz, 1,541 m. , 5,056 ft. (3 J hrs. 
from Villeneuve), the chief village in 
the Val Savaranche and the meeting 
point of many routes. Hence the 
Punta Foura (3,410 m., 11,188 ft.) 
is seen at the end of the glen. 

[For the routes to Cogne by the 
Cols de Mesoncles or de Belleface, 
and de Trajo, de Lauzon, and de 
PHerbetet, as also the ascents of 
the Grand Nomenon, and the Mont 
Herbetet, see Rtes. B. 1 . ,C. 3. , and H. 2. 
The ascent of the Grivola (3,969 m., 
13,022 ft. ) from Degioz takes about 
7-8 hrs., and offers no great diffi- 
culties ; the best way is to follow the 
royal hunting path towards the Col 
de Belleface for some distance up the 
Peson or Bocconere ravine, and then 
to mount the rocks of the S.W. face, by 
a well-marked and nearly level ledge, 
on top of a layer of red rock, and 
later by ribs and gullies leading to the 
S. ridge, close to the top. On the W. 
side of the Val Savaranche several 
easy passes lead over to the neigh- 
bouring Val de Rhemes. The most 
direct (5§ hrs.) is the Col de Sort 



ROUTE I. AOSTA TO TURIN BY THE COL DE NI VOLET 317 



(2,967 m., 9,735 ft.), reached by a 
king's path, bearing N. from the Col 
d'Entrelor route. The Col de Sort is 
just at the S. foot of the M. Roletta 
(3,384 m., 11,103 ft.), which is ac- 
cessible thence mainly by another 
king's path, in rather over I hr., and 
commands a very fine view. A rocky 
descent from the pass leads down to 
a stony basin, whence a track brings 
the traveller direct to Notre Dame 
de Rhemes. An easier pass (6 hrs.) 
is the Col (PEntrelor (3,009 m., 
9,873 ft.), a little further to the S., 
and reached from Degioz by a royal 
hunting path ; from it the mountaineer 
should not fail to follow the ridge (or 
its W. slope) to the S. over the Cima 
di Percia, the Colle di Percia, and 
the Sommet d'Entrelor to the Cima 
deW Anille (3,446 m., 11,306 ft.), 
z\ hrs. from the pass, and a splendid 
view-point, as it is the highest sum- 
mit in the ridge separating the Val 
Savaranche from the Val de Rhemes. 
The descent on the Rhemes side of 
the pass is steep at first, but easy. 
A traveller delayed at Degioz would 
do well to mount the Punta Bioula 
(3,414 m., 11,201 ft.), N. of the M. 
Roletta, and accessible in 4-5 hrs. 
by a royal hunting path, which from 
the royal hunting lodge of Orvieille, 
on the way to the Col d'Entrelor, 
strikes boldly to the N. , and leads to 
a hunter's shelter on the very summit 
of the peak.|] 

The mule path from Degioz crosses 
and recrosses the stream before enter- 
ing a fine gorge through which it 
passes, the mountain-sides being 
clothed with pine forests, while 
glimpses are had of rugged peaks and 
pinnacles towering high above them. 
On issuing from it the basin in which 
stands Pont, 1,946 m., 6,385 ft. 
(2 hrs. from Degioz), the highest 
hamlet in the valley, is attained, and 
traversed to that village, many evi- 
dences of glacial action on a grand 
scale being seen here as well as higher 
up the glen. 

[Pont is situated at the junction of 
the torrents from the Nivolet plain, 



on the S.W. , and from the Seiva or 
Grand Etret glen, on the S.E. ; 
through the latter several passes lead 
over easy glaciers to Ceresole, but 
are more conveniently described in 
Rte. K, as well as the way from 
Pont to the Victor Emmanuel Club 
hut, 1J-2 hrs. distant by mule path. 3 

From Pont a ' rough but well- 
engineered path zigzags up the cliff, 
like i n expurgated edition of the 
Gemmi, with the objectionable parts 
omitted' (F. F. T. ), the Croix 
d'Aroletta, at its upper edge, being 
gained in 50 min. from Pont. The 
view hence of the near mass of the 
Grand Paradis, with its attendant 
peaks, and of the jagged range ex- 
tending thence to the Grivola, is 
celebrated by all who have passed 
this way as among the finest in the 
Alps. The way now lies S.W. 
amidst rocky ridges which have been 
flattened and rounded by the former 
passage of a glacier. A large number 
of erratic blocks have been deposited 
on these smooth surfaces by the ex- 
tinct glacier. Some of these are so 
nicely poised that a slight exertion 
would upset them, but it may be 
hoped that no traveller will be so 
stupidly barbarous as to cancel these 
records of the past history of the 
earth. Beyond, an extensive upland 
plain is traversed to the Nivolet 
chalets, 2,410 m., 7,907 ft. (if hr. 
from the Croix), where poor quarters 
on hay may be had in case of 
necessity. 

[The view may be extended by 
mounting in 2J-3 hrs. without any 
difficulty either the Tout Bla?zc (3,438 
m., 11,280 ft.), on the N.W., or the 
Punt a Violetta (3,031 m., 9,945 ft.), 
on the S. , it being perfectly easy to 
take the latter point on the way to v the 
Col de Nivolet. The Col Posset 
(3,024 m., 9,922 ft.) leads over to the 
Val de Rhemes, the track from the 
chalets winding among glaciated 
rocks, interspersed with small tarns, 
near the largest of which the king's 
hunting path from the Nivolet lakes 
to the pass is joined. The pass affords 



318 GRAIAN ALPS. § 15. GRAND PARADIS DISTRICT 



a good view in different directions. 
In descending the course is at first 
nearly due W. , down a slope of 
shifting stones, and then N. , winding 
round a projecting spur of the 
mountain, a good track finally leading 
N.W. down to the Balmaverain 
chalets, at the head of the Val de 
Rhemes (see § 14. Rte. C). It is not 
difficult to go from the chalets S.W. 
over the Basei glacier to the Punt a 
Baset (3,338 m., 10,952 ft.), and 
thence to follow the ridge to the 
panoramic Point e de la Galise (3,341 
m. , 10,975 ft.), easily reached from 
the Col de la Galise (§ 14. Rte. B), 
which connects the Isere and Oreo 
valleys. 3 

The path from the chalets mounts 
over a slightly inclined plateau >of 
about 5 miles in length past the king's 
hunting lodge and some fine lakes. 
A short distance below the pass the 
rocky peak of the Grivola comes into 
view on turning round, and contrasts 
finely with the dreary character of the 
upland plain, patched with snow- 
fields. Some zigzags lead up a short 
ascent to the wild opening of the Col 
de Nivolet (2,641 m., 8,665 ft -)> Y et 
the lowest pass in the district (a good 
hour from the chalets). Fresh snow 
is generally found in patches near the 
top. The Grivola is seen to the N., 
and the three -peaked Levanna to the 
S., the scenery being otherwise wild 
and dreary. 

The mule path zigzags down a 
curious rock crest, where no one, 
especially if mounting from Ceresole, 
would expect to find a passage. \ hr. 
below the pass care should be taken 
to take the right-hand path, at a bifur- 
cation. 

[From a small tarn a short \ hr. 
below the Col on the Ceresole side of 
the Col a traveller bound for the Col 
de la Galise or du Carro may traverse 
round to the S.W. to the chapel 
above the great Cerru lake in 1 hr. 
from the Col. Hence the Col de la 
Galise (§ 14. Rte. B), leading to the 
Isere valley, may be reached in less 
than 2 hrs. ; for the Col du Cai'ro 



13. Rte. I), giving access to the 
Arc valley, a further traverse in a 
slightly S.E. direction, past the wildly 
situated Rocce huts, is made to the 
foot of the steep final snow slopes, 
1 1-2 hrs. from the Cerm lake— by 
which the pass is attained in 1 hr. 
more. J 

More zigzags lead past the Best alone 
huts (situated on a shelf on the steep 
side of the mountain, and commanding 
a very grand view of the peaks and 
glaciers at the head of the valley of 
the Oreo) to the level of the Oreo 
valley, the hamlet of Chiapilidi sopra 
being gained in 1 \ hr. from the pass. 
Hence 2 hrs. ' walk by the mule path 
on the left bank of the Oreo, past the 
church hamlet of Ceresole, leads to 
the inn at Ceresole, near the mineral 
spring and a good bit beyond that 
hamlet. 

Ceresole Reale (1,495 m -> 4>9°5 ft.) 

consists of little else than the Stabili- 
mento, and several inns, all situated 
in a charming green basin, with a 
pretty waterfall, and overhung by the 
great wall of the Levanna. The mineral 
spring attracts a certain number of 
Piedmontese visitors, as well as other 
Italians seeking coolness during the 
summer months, so that the accommo- 
dation is now excellent. The moun- 
taineer will, however, find it too low 
to be conveniently employed as a 
starting point, but the recent erection 
of two Club huts, one at a height of 
2,800 m. (9,187 ft.) on the W. edge 
of the great couloir leading up to the 
Colle Perduto, the depression between 
the Central and Eastern peaks of the 
Levanna, the other at the S.W. foot 
of the Grand Paradis (see Rte. K), has 

j greatly stimulated climbing in this 

I district. 

[The chief belvedere near Ceresole 

j is the Bellagarda (2,939 m -? 95643 ft.), 
on the S.E., accessible in 5-6 hrs. 
without difficulty, and commanding a 
magnificent view on all sides. It is 
also easily gained from the Val 
Grande, on the S., which is reached 
from Ceresole by the Colle della 
Piccola, or the Colle della Crocetta 



ROUTE I. AOSTA TO TURIN BY THE COL DE N I VOLET 319 



(described in § 13. Rte. H). The 
ascent of the Central Lev a)ina (3,640 
m., ' 11,943 ft.) direct by its N. face 
is difficult and laborious, as many steps 
have to be cut, or a long and very 
steep rock ridge scaled, so that it is 
now better to start from the Levanna 
Club hut, under 4 hrs. from Ceresole, 
whence the Co lie Perduto (3,242 in.', 
10,637 ft.) is reached in ij hr. ; 
hence the Central Levanna is accessi- 
ble in 2 hrs. or less by its easy S.W. 
rock face, and the Eastern Levanna 
(3,564 m., 11,693 ft-) i n 1 J hr. by 
its N. ridge ; but both summits, as 
well as the Western Levanna (3,607 
m. , 1 1 ,835 ft. ), are most conveniently 
attacked from Bonne val, at the head 
of the Arc valley (see § 13. Rte. F. 3. ). 
For the passes from Ceresole to the 
Victor Emmanuel Club hut see Rte. 
K. , below, and for those to Cogne 
direct, Rte. G.|| 

The mule track towards Noasca 
traverses the undulating, almost level 
basin of Ceresole, divided into barley 
fields and rich meadows, enclosed by 
pine forests and rugged peaks, till the 
summit of the famous Scalaridi Ceresole 
is reached. This is a series of rude 
steps (now passable for mules) cut in 
the live rock down a steep cliff to the 
lower level of the Oreo valley. The 
gorge is almost closed by huge masses 
of rock, fallen from either side. A 
fine waterfall is passed, and another 
where the path crosses the Noaschetta 
torrent (flowing from the extensive 
glacier of that name), which issues from 
the rift in the mountain-side, between 
huge masses of granite, one of the 
grandest scenes in the Oreo valley. 
Just beyond the junction of this 
torrent with the Oreo is the wretched 
hamlet of Noasca, 1,062 m. , 3,484 ft. 
( 1 hr. from Ceresole Reale. ) Its 
miserable appearance recalls to mind 
the couplet : 

'Noasca, Noasca, 
Poco pane, lunga tasca.' 

But there is now a good inn there, 
where carriages can be obtained for 



the drive down to Pont Canavese, as 
the carriage road begins at Noasca. 

[For the passes to the Victor Em- 
manuel Club hut and Cogne, see 
Rtes. K and G respectively. 3 

The road keeps along the left bank 
h of the Oreo. Glacier markings may 
I be traced to a height of 600-800 fee^ 
i along the walls which shut in the 
I valley. The scenery becomes less 
! savage as the traveller advances to- 
; wards Locana, and the chestnut be- 
| comes the prevailing tree ; its foliage 
contrasts finely with the nearer rock 
S masses, and the rugged peaks that 
\ frown over the traveller, who turns- 
round to view whence he has come. 
! At Perebecche the Val Piantonetto 
(see Rte. F) joins the Oreo valley, and 
\ the latter valley bends to the S.E. as 
I 2 miles further the traveller reaches 

Locana (617 m., 2,024 ft-)> a little 
1 old town, with narrow streets, rather 
over 9 miles from Noasca. A good 
[ but hot and dusty road leads, amid 
I very fine scenery, in about 8 miles 
I more, past picturesque Sparone, to 

Pont Canavese (440 m. , 1,444 ft-)? 
' most beautifully situated at the junc- 
tion of the Val Soana (Rte. E)«with 
the Val d'Orco. Pont is a village 
which has grown into a town of 
5,500 inhabitants since the establish- 
ment of large cotton mills. An after- 
noon may very well be spent in 
strolling about the neighbourhood, 
where every eminence commands 
noble views of the two valleys, and 
the snowy chain which encloses them. 
A ruined tower on a steep knoll, and 
the church of Santa Maria, about 
\ hr. below Ponte, are particularly 
! well worth a visit. Campanula elatines 
is found in shady spots near the river. 

3J miles below Pont is the small 
but prosperous manufacturing town of 
Cuorgne (2of miles from Noasca). 
Hence a railway leads through a 
richly cultivated country, with many 
thriving villages, to Turin (28 miles). 
At Rivarolo (6 \ m. from Cuorgne) it 
joins the line from Castellamonte, by 
which the Val Chiusella may be visited 
(Rte. A, under Ivrea). 



320 GRAIAN ALPS. § 15. GRAND PAR AD IS DISTRICT 



Route K. 

ASCENTS AND PASSES FROM THE 
VICTOR EMMANUEL CLUB HUT. 
ASCENT OF THE GRAND PARADIS. 

With the exception of Cogne itself, 
the Victor Emmanuel Club hut is by 

far the best headquarters for a moun- 
taineer in the Eastern Graians, while 
it possesses the advantage over Cogne 
that, being at a much greater eleva- 
tion (2,775 m., 9,105 ft.), expeditions 
can be made thence in far shorter 
times. It is situated at the S. W. foot 
of the Grand Paradis. close to and 
above the N.W. corner of the Mon- 
corve glacier, and contains 5 rooms, 
very well and conveniently fitted up. 
But it is locked, and the key should 
be brought by a party from Cogne, 
Degioz, or Ceresole. It is usually 
approached from Pont, in the Val 
Savaranche (2 hrs. from Degioz : see 
Rte. I), whence a mule track leads 
S.E. up the Seiva or Grand Etret 
glen for some distance, till a royal 
hunting path mounts due E. by many 
zigzags past some chalets to the Club 
hut (iJ-2 hrs. from Pont), continuing 
a little further. A party coming from 
Ceresole to the hut has several passes 
open to it, those of the Grand Etret 
or Moncorve being the best (see 3. 
below). A party coming from Cogne 
may from the highest chalets below 
the Col de Lauzon (Rte. H) gain the 
Grand Neiron glacier, on the route of 
the Col de l'Herbetet, and then cross 
the Col du Grand Neiron (over the 
ridge S. of that glacier) to the Mon- 
tandeyne glacier, by which and the 
Lavetiau glacier the Club hut is 
reached in 5 hrs. or so from the Col de 
Lauzon ; this is a fine route which 
traverses the entire W. slope of the 
range between the Lauzon and the 
Grand Paradis. 

It seems most convenient to divide 
the climbs which may be made from 
the Club hut under three heads. 

I. The Ascent of the Grand Para- 



dis. —To the great majority of moun- 
taineers who visit this Club hut the 
ascent of the Grand Paradis (4,061 
m., 13,324 ft.), the monarch of the 
entire Graian chain, is the chief object. 
It was first climbed (and from this 
side) on September 4, i860, by 
Messrs. J. J. Cowell and W. Dundas, 
with Jean Tairraz and Michel Payot. 
The weather having been very un- 
favourable, Mr. Cowell, with Payot, 
pluckily repeated the ascent the next 
day, with better luck as to a view, 
which is, as might be expected, very 
extensive, and has been twice photo- 
I graphed by Signor V. Sella. The 
j route now usually taken is to follow 
the royal hunting path from the Club 
hut as far as it goes, and then to 
mount N.W. by stones to the W. end 
of the great spur stretching W. from 
the point at which the Grand Paradis > 
the Tour du Grand St. Pierre, and 
: the Charforon ridges meet. Easy 
I shale and snow slopes are then fol- 
| lowed in an E. direction to the foot 
I of that point, the Roc du Grand 
j Paradis (4,018 m., 13,183 ft.), or 
! towards its foot only. In the former 
j case the snow at the W. base of the 
I rocky pinnacles on the S. ridge of the 
Grand Paradis is traversed, in the 
latter a steep ice or snow slope must 
be cut up diagonally to the foot of the 
' most northerly of these pinnacles or 
towers. A short ascent then leads to 
the beautiful snow crest which forms 
the summit of the mountain. 3-4 hrs. 
are required for the ascent from the 
I Club hut, under ordinary circum- 
i stances, when there is not the slightest 
difficulty or danger in the expedition. 
There are several other routes to the 
summit, for which reference must be 
made to the ' Climbers' Guide. ' That 
from Cogne has already been de- 
scribed in Rte. C. 3. b. An interest- 
ing way of returning to the Club hut 
is to follow the W. slope of the S. 
ridge to the gap just N. of the Roc 
i (J hr. ), whence steep rocks and a 
j fairly broad snow couloir lead down 
I on the E. to the great Tribulation 
j glacier, a short traverse then sufficing 



ROUTE K. FROM THE VICTOR EMMANUEL CLUB HUT 321 



to reach the Col de PAbeille, 3,852 m., 
12,638 ft. (l^-l| hr. from the gap) ; 
thence the small Abeille glacier, and 
either the rocks below it, or a great 
deeply cut snow couloir to its S.W., 
are descended to the extensive Noa- 
schetta glacier (1 hr. ), the Club hut 
being regained by the Col du Grand 
Paradis (see below) in rather over 
I hr. more quick walking, or in little 
more than hrs.' walking from the 
summit of the Grand Paradis. 

From the Col de l'Abeille the 
Cresta Gastaldi (3,862 m. , 12,671ft.), 
on the E. , may be reached in 10 min. 

2. The Col du Grand Paradis and 
the Noaschetta Glacier. — Nearly due 
E. of the Club hut, and very con- 
spicuous from it, is a wide gateway 
between the Tresenta and the Roc du 
Grand Paradis, which is an obvious 
pass. This is the Col du Grand 
Paradis (3,349 m. , 10,988 ft.), which 
gives access to the rarely visited 
Noaschetta glacier, lying at the S. 
foot of the range which limits on the 
S. the Tribulation glacier, and so in 
a sense balancing that great glacier. 
The pass is gained by a very straight- 
forward course over the moraine on 
the right bank of the Moncorve 
glacier, that level glacier, and a short 
scramble up a low ridge (ij hr. from 
the hut). 

[Hence the Tresenta (3,609 m., 
11,841 ft.), on the S., is accessible by 
a very easy ridge in f hr. or less, and 
may be descended on the other side 
to the Col de Moncorve by a ridge of 
nearly equal easiness in J hr. or less, 
but the peak is too close under the 
Grand Paradis, so that the view from 
it is not equal to that from the 
Charforon, or the Monciair : see 3. 
below. 3 

The Col is on a level with the 
snows of the Noaschetta glacier, the 
E. end of which may be attained in 
less than an hour. Thence the Bruna 
huts, on the Col de Grandcroux route 
(Rte. G), are soon reached, and so 
Ceresole. But this is a roundabout 
route, even if from a point midway 
down the glacier a short cut is taken 



to the Goj huts, close to those of 
Bruna. 

The Col is, therefore, chiefly useful 
to a party bound for the Piantonetto 
Club hut (Rte. F. 2.-7 hrs.) by the 
Bocchetto della Losa (the way by the 
Bocchetta di Gay, and the Punta di 
Gay, is finer, though longer), or 
desirous of making the ascent of some 
one of the peaks which overhang the 
Noaschetta glacier on the N. That 
most to be recommended is the Point s 
de Ceresole (3,773 m., 12,379 ft.) 
(close to the summit of which Mr. Yeld 
found Ranunculus glacialis), a fine 
view-point. It is most easily reached 
from the Noaschetta glacier by the 
rocks on the S.W. side of its S. 
buttress, and the small glacier above, 
whence a short traverse leads to the 
! hollow between the two teeth com- 
| posing the summit, the highest (that 
I to the W. ) being gained by a short 
■ scramble (2 J hrs. from the Noaschetta 
glacier). The descent may be made 
i either by the snowy W. ridge to the, 
I Col Cha?nonin, 3,692 m. , 12,113 ft. 
I (20 min.), whence the Noaschetta 
I glacier is regained by gullies and rock 
ribs in 1-2 hrs., or by the N. face 
and the E. ridge to the Col de la Lune 
(3,513 m., 11,526 ft.), whence the 
! same glacier is reached in rather over 
| \ hr. down an apparently, though not 
I really, difficult rock wall. From the 
last-named pass the Tete de la Tribu- 
lation (3,642 m. , 11,949 ft.) may be 
climbed without any difficulty, the 
descent being made to the Col de Val- 
nontey (3,535 m., 11,598 ft.), on the 
N.E. , and so the S. Grandcroux 
glacier attained, not far from the E. 
end of the Noaschetta glacier (Rte. G). 
The four passes — the Cols de l'Abeille, 
j Chamonin, de la Lune, and de Val- 
nontey — mentioned here or under 1. 
above — all lead over from the great 
Tribulation glacier, but are very cir- 
cuitous routes from Cogne to Cere- 
sole, and are mainly used by parties 
bent on the ascent of some one of the 
peaks rising between them. The 
Becca di Noaschetta (3,447 m., 
11,310 ft.) rises on the S.E. spur of 

Y 



322 GRAIAN ALPS. § 15. GRAND PARADIS DISTRICT 



the Tete de la Tribulation, and may- 
be ascended in J hr. from the 
Noaschetta glacier by the rocky S.W. 
ridge, and traversed in f hr. more to 
the Col de Valnontey ; it peers over 
the main ridge towards Cogne, and is 
the home of many Alpine plants, 
while it commands what is perhaps 
the finest view of the Grand Paradis 
that can be obtained. 

The Club hut has even been taken 
as the starting point for the ascent of 
the Punt a di Gay (3,623m., 11,887 ft.) 
by way of the Col du Grand Paradis 
and the S. ridge of the peak (4 hrs. 
40 min. walking up, and 4J hrs.' 
walking back to the Club hut), but 
this summit properly belongs to the 
district served by the Piantonetto 
Club hut, and this expedition is only 
mentioned here to show what an 
admirable climbing centre the Victor 
Emmanuel Club hut really is. 

3. The Peaks and Passes to the 
South of the Club Hut. — The spec- 
tator who looks towards the ranges 
S. of the Club hut will be first struck 
by a very wide opening, seen across 
a series of glaciers, scarcely to be 
distinguished from each other, and 
closing the head of the Seiva or 
Grand Etret glen, which opens into 
the Val Savaranche at Pont. This 
wide opening is the Col du Grand 
Etret, a double pass leading over to 
Ceresole. W. of it rise the summits 
of the Mare Pei'ci (3,385m., 1 1 , 1 06 ft. ) 
and the Punt a Fotira (3,410 m., 
11,188 ft.), both accessible without 
difficulty from the glacier at their E. 
foot. E. of the Col du Grand Etret 
a range runs in a N.E. direction to 
the Col du Grand Paradis. It is 
crowned by a number of peaks, the 
depressions between which serve as 
passes to Ceresole. The order from 
S.W. to N.E. is as follows : — Punta 
del Broglio (3,455 m., 11,336 ft.), 
four sharp rock pinnacles, of which 
that most to the S. is the highest 
(accessible in \\-2 hrs. from the Col 
by way of the gap N. of the S. 
pinnacle, a sheer rock needle) ; the 
Colletto Monciair, 3,309m., 10,857ft. 



(a difficult and dangerous pass) ; the 
Becca di Monciair, 3, 544 m. , 1 1 ,628 ft. 
(a most graceful rock and snow point, 
easily gained in 35 min. from the Col 
du Charfo7-on (3,331 m., 10,929 ft.), 
on its N.E.) ; the Cima di Char for on, 
3,665 m., 12,025 ft. (a heavy, shape- 
less peak, with a very fine view), 
reached in \\ hr. from the Col du 
Charforon, and in rather over 1 hr. 
from the Col de Moncorve (3,351 m., 
10,995 ft -)> on it: s N.E. ; N.E. of 
the latter pass is the Tresenta 
(3,609 m., 11,841 ft.), described 
under 2. above. Of these summits 
the Monciair and Charforon are 
recommended for the splendid view 
which they command, while the 
Broglio will be sought by moun- 
taineers who delight in rock work. 

The Col du Charforon is probably 
the shortest route from the Club hut to 
Ceresole ; it is reached by an easy 
traverse over the Moncorve and Mon- 
ciair glaciers, and a steep snow slope 
(2 hrs.), the descent on the other 
side lying at first to the left down 
steep rocks (on which an iron cable 
has now been fixed) and the small 
Broglio glacier, below which one of 
the royal hunting paths is found, and 
followed past the Bi'oglio huts and 
over a grassy pass, the Colle delta 
Sia (2,274 m., 7,461 ft.) to Ceresole 
(3 J hrs. from the pass). The Col de 
Moncorve is even easier in itself, but 
it brings the traveller to the head of 
the Ciamosseretto glen, which de- 
scends direct to Noasca, so that to 
gain Ceresole a wearisome traverse 
round spurs, or the traverse of a second 
high pass, the Colle delta Torre 
(3,187 m., 10,457 ft.), is necessary. 
The Col du Grand Etret (for the W. 
pass, 3,158 m., 10,361 ft., is far 
better than that to the E.) leads by 
yet a third glen, that of Medico, to 
Ceresole. The Moncorve, Monciair, 
and Seiva glaciers must all be tra- 
versed in a S.W. direction from the 
Club hut in order to gain the pass 
(2 J hrs. ) An easy snow gully start- 
ing from the ridge between the Mare 
Perci and the mound on the E. of the 



ROUTE K. FROM THE VICTOR EMMANUEL CLUB HUT 323 



pass, called Grand Etret (3,199m., 
10,496 ft.), leads in 20 min. or so to 
the W. side of the Colle della Porta 
(3,025 m., 10,925 ft.) The traveller 
can then choose between a direct 
descent by the royal hunting path S. W. 
past the Medico huts to the church 
town of Ceresole (Rte. I), and so to 



j the inns at Ceresole Reale (2J-3 hrs. ), 
j or may follow the path E. over the Colle 
I della Porta, and join the Col du 
I Charforon route at the Broglio huts, 
and so reach Ceresole Reale in about 
3J-4 hrs. from the foot of the Col du. 
Grand Etret. 



325 



CHAPTER VI. 
PENNINE ALPS. 



Section 16. 
Mont Blanc District. 

Route. 

A. Geneva to Chamonix. Excursions 

from Chamonix. 

B. The Ascent of Mont Blanc. 

C. The Chamonix Aiguilles. 

D. Chamonix to Courmayeur by the 

Col du Geant and other Passes 
from the Montenvers. 

E. Chamonix to Courmayeur by the 

Col du Bonhomme. Excursions 
from Courmayeur. 

F. Contamines to Courmayeur by the j 

Trelatete Glacier. 

G. Chamonix to Courmayeur by the | 

Mi age Glacier. 

H. Chamonix to Martigny. 

I . Chamonix or Martigny to Orsieres by 

Champex. 
K. Orsieres to Courmayeur by the Col 
Ferret. 

L. Chamonix to Orsieres by the Argen- ; 

tiere Glacier. 
M. Chamonix to Orsieres by the Tour 

Glacier, 

Section 17. 
slxt and champery district. 
Route. 

A. Geneva to Sixt by Taninges or 

Samoens. 

B. Cluses, Sallanches, or Servoz to 

Sixt. 

C. Sixt and its Neighbourhood. 

D. Sixt to Chamonix by the Col d'An- 

terne. 

E. Sixt to Argentiere or Chamonix by 

the Buet and the Aiguilles Rouges. 

F. Sixt to Sal van and Martigny. 

G. Sixt or Samoens to Champlry. 

H. Monthey to Champery. Ascent of 

the Dent du Midi. 



Route. 

I. Champery to Martigny or Chamo- 
nix. 

K. Geneva to St. Maurice by Thonon. 
L. Thonon to Bonneville or Taninges. 
M. Thonon to Taninges or Samcens. 
N. Thonon to Monthey by Morgins or 
Champe>y. 

Section 18. 
Grand Combin District. 
Route. 

A. Martigny to Aosta by the Great St, 

Bernard. 

B. Great St. Bernard Hospice to Cour- 

mayeur. 

C. Bourg St. Pierre to Courmayeur. 

D. Bourg St. Pierre to Aosta by the 

Col de Valsorey. Ascent of the 
Mont Velan. 

E. Martigny to Aosta by the Val de 

Bagnes and the Col de Fenetre. 

F. Fionnay to Bourg St. Pierre by the 

Col des Maisons Blanches. As- 
cent of the Grand Combin. 

G. Bourg St. Pierre to Chanrion by the 

Col du Scnadon. 

H. Chanrion to the Valpelline. As- 

cents from Chanrion. 
L Chanrion to Arolla by the Otemma 

or Breney Glaciers. 
K. Mauvoisin or Chanrion to Arolla or 

Her^mence by the Cols du Mont 

Rouge and de Seilon. 
L. Sion to the Val de Bagnes or Arolla 

by the Val d'Her^mence. 

Section 19. 

Evolena, Zinal, and Valpelline 
District. 

Route. 

A. Sion to Evolena by the Val d' Ke- 
rens. . Excursions from Evolena. 



326 



PENNINE ALPS 



Route. 

B. Evolena to Arolla. Excursions and 

Ascents from Arolla. 

C. Arolla to Zermatt. 

D. Arolla to the Valpelline by the Col 

de Collon. 

E. Aosta to Zermatt by the Col de 

Valpelline. Ascent of the Dent 
d'Herens. 

F-. Praraye to the Valtournanche by 
the Col de Valcournera. 

G. Through the Val St. Barth61emy to 

the Valpelline or the Valtour- 
nanche. 

H. Evolena to Zermatt by the Col 

d'H^rens. Ascent of the Dent 
Blanche. 

I. Sierre to Zermatt by the Val dAnni- 

viers. Ascents from Zinal. 
K. Evolena to the Val dAnniviers. 
L. Val dAnniviers to Gruben. 
M. Gruben to St.Niklaus and Randa. 



Section 20. 
Monte Rosa District. 

Route. 

A. Visp to Zermatt. Excursions and 

Ascents from Zermatt. 

B. Zermatt to Chatillon by the St. 

The'odule Pass. Ascents from 
Breuil. 

C. Zermatt to Verres by the Schwarzthor 

and the Val dAyas. 

D. Zermatt to Pont St. Martin by the 

Lysjoch and the Val de Lys. 



Route. 

E. Zermatt to Varallo by the Sesiajoch 

and the Val Sesia. 

F. Zermatt to Domodossola by the 

Weissthor and the Val Anzasca. 

G. Tour of Monte Rosa by the High 

Glacier Passes. 

H. Valtournanche to Macugnaga by 

the Middle Passes. 

I. Aosta to the Val Anzasca by the 

LGwer Passes. 
K. Ivrea to Orta by Biella. 
L. Orta to Ponte Grande by the Val 

Mastallone. 
M. Orta to Ponte Grande by the Val 

Strona. 

N. Visp to Macugnaga by the Monte 

Moro. 
O. Saas to Zermatt. 
P. Saas to St. Niklaus. 



Section 21. 
Simplon District. 

Route. 

A. Geneva to Milan by the Simplon 

Pass. 

B. Simplon to Saas by the Fletschhorn 

Range. 

C. Saas to Simplon or Domodossola by 

the Zwischbergen Pass. 
D* Simplon to Domodossola by the 

Val Bognanco. 
E. Saas to Domodossola by the Val 

Antrona. 



-The traveller who has explored the 
Alps in different directions, and 
surveyed them from several of the 
high points which offer an extensive 
panoramic view, can scarcely fail to 
have formed the conclusion that,, 
whatever the forces may have been 
that have raised so vast a mass of 
matter above the ordinary level of 
our continent, they have acted with 
peculiar intensity throughout the 
range, which, to speak roughly, ex- 
tends between the upper valley of 
the Rhone and that of the Dora 
Baltea from Mont Blanc to Monte 
Rosa. On studying a model, or even 
a good map, it becomes apparent that 



the importance of this range does not 
depend only on the fact that it 
includes all the highest peaks of the 
Alps, all but one of those exceeding 
14,000 ft., and fully two-thirds of 
those over 13,000 ft. Throughout 
the whole central region of the Alps, 
from the valley of the Adige to the 
basin of the Isere and that of the 
Arve, a prevailing direction is ob- 
served in the chief valleys, the key to 
which is to be found in the Pennine 
chain. We thus find that the range 
of Mont Blanc lies between two 
parallel troughs, the valley of 
Chamonix, and the Allee Blanche, 
I directed from W.S.W. to E.N.E. ; 



INTRODUCTION 



327 



that the same direction is repeated in 
the Valpelline, the Val Anzasca, the 
valley of the Trient, &c, and that, if 
we carry our eye across the whole of 
Switzerland, we constantly encounter 
ridges and depressions of the surface 
that conform to the same direction. 
A line drawn from Martigny to 
Coire, with a slight dislocation be- 
tween Leuk and Visp, marks a great 
line of depression nearly 120 m. in 
length — traversed, it is true, by two 
ridges, and forming the channel for 
four different streams, yet essentially 
one trough, parallel to and nearly a 
continuation of the valley of Chamo- 
nix. Farther E. another great paral- 
lel line of depression may be traced 
from Kauns (not far from Landeck), 
in the valley of the Inn, to the 
source of that stream, and then over 
the Maloja Pass to Chiavenna, per- 
haps even thence to Cannobio, on 
the Lago Maggiore, and through the 
Val Vigezzo and the Val Anzasca to 
the base of Monte Rosa. The line 
of lakes from Interlaken to Kiiss- 
nacht, that between Orbe and Soleure, 
and the direction of most of the minor 
ranges of the Canton of Bern, all 
bear testimony to the existence of 
forces which have operated over a 
wide area, but which have produced 
their maximum effect in the range of 
the Pennine Alps. 

The Little St. Bernard and the 
valley of the Dora Baltea as far as 
Ivrea separate the Pennine from the 
Graian Alps. The W. boundary of 
the Penmnes is formed by the glens 
of Bonr.eval and Montjoie, between 
Bourg St. Maurice, on the Isere, and 
St. Gervais, and then by the valley 
of the Arve to its confluence with the 
Rhone. The Upper Rhone valley, 
the Simplon Pass, and the Val 
d'Ossola serve to fix the N. and E. 
limits, while between Ivrea and 
Arona the massive buttresses of 
Monte Rosa sink into the plain of 
Piedmont. The hilly district of the 
Chablais, lying between the Arve, the 
Rhone, and the Lake of Geneva, 
along with the adjacent Swiss valleys, 



W. of the Rhone, is perhaps more 
intimately related to the Bernese 
than to the Pennine chain, but its 
contiguity to the latter makes it 
practically more convenient to include 
it in the present Chapter. 

Within the limits here indicated 
the Pennine chain presents a tolerably 
continuous range about 70 m. long, 
in a straight line from the S.W. end 
of the chain of Mont Blanc to the 
Fletschhorn, with tw 7 o great disloca- 
tions. The one, between Mont 
Blanc and the Mont Velan, gives 
place for the chief passes across the 
main chain that fall below the level 
of perpetual snow. The other dislo- 
cation is seen in the irregular zigzag 
line described by the crest of > the 
chain between the Matterhorn and 
the Fletschhorn, forming the main 
range of Monte Rosa. 

The pre-eminence of Mont Blanc 
over every other summit of the Alps, 
the interest attaching to its conquest, 
especially to the ascent of Saussure, 
and the grand scenery of the valley 
itself, all combined to make Chamonix 
one of the earliest resorts of Alpine 
travellers, so that, even before the 
French Revolution, many strangers 
were seen in the valley, which but a 
few years earlier w r as almost unknow n 
to travellers for pleasure. After the 
peace of 18 14 the stream of tourists 
began to flow in the same direction. 
The number of visitors constantly 
increased, but for long the valley of 
Chamonix and the pass of the Great 
St. Bernard were the only portions of 
the Pennine Alps at all generally 
known. A few Swiss and German 
naturalists, and a still smaller number 
of adventurous Englishmen, had fol- 
lowed in the footsteps of Saussure in 
the valleys surrounding Monte Rosa, 
but it is only within the last 40 years 
or so that general attention has been 
directed to that region, which is now 
recognised as second to none in the 
union of all the elements of the 
sublime in nature. Still more 
recently the central portion of the 
Pennine chain has been pretty 



328 PENNINE ALPS. § 16. MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



thoroughly explored by English and 
foreign climbers, while excellent inns 
have now been established at Evolena, 
Arolla, Zinal, and other villages, and 
Club huts have been built at various 
convenient points. But the accom- 
modation at the head of the Val de 
Bagnes and of the Valpelline still 
leaves much room for improvement. 
The southern valleys of Monte Rosa 
are now well supplied with inns. 

The snow-clad portion of the 
Pennine chain is generally divided 
into three parts — the Western Pen- 
7tineS) or the chain of Mont Blanc, 
the Central Pe7tnines, thence to the 
St. Theodule Pass, and the Eastern 
Pennines, limited by the Simplon 
Pass. All three have been described 
in detail in three volumes of the 
£ Climbers' Guides ' series, which 
were published between 1890 and 
1892. 



SECTION 16. 

MONT BLANC DISTRICT. 

The mountain mass which includes 
the highest summit of the Alps lies 
between the parallel valleys of Cha- 
monix on the N. and of the Allee 
Blanche and of Ferret on the S. 1 
The Allee Blanche and the Italian 
Val Ferret send down two torrents 
flowing in opposite directions towards 
the village of Entreves, near which 

1 This word is correctly written La 
Lex Blanche (' lex ' meaning a meadow 
shut in by hills) ; but it does not seem 
possible to change the received spelling. 
It is an old name, and appears under 
the form ' Lalays Blanchy ' in a charter 
of 1359. The name Ferret is here used 
of the two valleys on either side of the 
Col Ferret, the W. one being Italian, 
the E. one Swiss. For convenience 
we speak as if the range of Mont Blanc 
lay E. and W. , but it must be recol- 
lected that the true direction of the 
watershed, and of the valleys on either 
side, approaches N.E. and S.W. 



they unite to form the main stream of 
the Dora Baltea, which escapes to 
the S. E. by a broad opening between 
the Mont Chetif and the Mont de la 
Saxe. It is questionable whether the 
Mont Blanc range may most pro- 
perly be described as a single ridge, 
throwing out on the N. side massive 
buttresses, which are crowned by 
towers and pinnacles that rival in 
height those of the central ridge, or 
as two parallel ridges linked together 
by connecting walls of rock, and 
with this peculiarity, that the N. 
ridge is broken through by numerous 
gaps, through which the vast accumu- 
lations of ice formed in the central 
basins are drained by the glaciers 
descending into the valley of Cha- 
monix. At the W. end of the range 
several glaciers descend towards the 
Montjoie glen, while the opposite ex- 
tremity, limited by the Swiss bit of 
the Val Ferret, the Dranse, and the 
Trient, is also bordered by numerous 
glaciers whose streams flow into those, 
valleys. 

As already explained, the water- 
shed of the Mont Blanc range is 
the ridge which rises on the S. side 
immediately above the Allee Blanche 
and the Italian bit of the Val Ferret. 
Although the crest does not maintain 
continuously so high a level as that of 
Monte Rosa, this may be pronounced 
for combined length, height, and 
steepness to be the most formidable 
barrier existing in the Alps. Until 
about thirty- five years ago but two 
passes — the Col de Miage and the 
Col du Geant — had been effected 
across the snowy portion of the range 
extending from the Mont Tondu on 
the W. to the Mont Dolent on the E. 
But of recent years this number has 
been very largely increased, so that 
no fewer than twenty-two passes are 
now known between those limits, 
six leading from St. Gervais, and 
sixteen from Chamonix. There are 
also seven snow passes, approached 
from the Argentiere and Tour glaciers, 
at the E. end of the main range, 
which lead into the Swiss Val Ferret. 



§ 16. MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



329 



The name Mont Blanc is some- 
times applied collectively to the en- 
tire range, or to a large portion of it ; 
we here confine it to the central peak, 
which overtops all its attendant sum- 
mits by nearly 2,000 ft., and is cut 
off from its chief rivals by the Col de 
Miage on the W. , and on the E. by the 
Vallee Blanche and the Col du Midi, 
between the Aiguille du Midi and 
the Mont Blanc du Tacul. The 
latter projecting point, as well as the 
higher eminence of the Mont Maudit, 
are properly but portions of the main 
peak, and the same may be also ob- 
served of the continuous ridge which 
extends from the summit by the 
Bosses du Dromadaire and the Dome 
du Gouter to the Aiguille du Gouter. 
The remaining portion of the chain 
of Mont Blanc is not naturally divided 
into large and distinct masses, but 
exhibits in extraordinary perfection 
that characteristic form of sharp 
craggy pinnacle which has received 
the name of aiguille, nearly sixty 
peaks in the range now bearing this 
prefix. 

Two outlying ranges closely con- 
nected with the chain of Mont Blanc 
are included in the present Section. 
To the N. of the valley of Chamonix 
the range of the Brevent and that 
commonly called the Aiguilles Rouges, 
connected w T ith the Buet, but nearly 
separated by the Vallorcine and the 
Diosaz, cannot well be detached from 
the adjoining valley of Chamonix. 
For the same reason the range of the 
Crammont (its best known though 
not its highest summit), between the 
Allee Blanche and the road over the 
Little St. Bernard, is not placed apart 
from Courmayeur, which lies close to 
its N.E. base. 

The two Alpine villages above 
named, Chamonix and Courmayeur, 
are the natural headquarters to 
which travellers resort, according as 
they would establish themselves on 
the N. or S. side of the range. There 
are a few little inns, and many Club 
huts, at higher points ; but, owing to 
the form of the range, there is no one 



inn in a central position and at a 
considerable height, such as the Riffel 
or the Eggishorn, where a moun- 
taineer can sojourn with satisfaction 
while exploring the surrounding 
peaks. The much enlarged and im- 
proved inn at the Montenvers is, in- 
deed, very conveniently placed for 
the peaks and passes round the great 
basin of the Mer de Glace ; but any 
one who would explore the E. and 
W. ends of the chain must thence 
make a longer or shorter journey 
before gaining suitable night quarters. 
On the other hand, it may be re- 
marked that there is, perhaps, no 
great mountain mass so admirably 
provided with natural belvederes 
whence it may be viewed on every 
side- as that of Mont Blanc. These 
are the Brevent, the Buet, theCatogne, 
the Crammont, and the Mont Joly, 
all of them possessing the great ad- 
vantage that a deep valley lies be- 
tween the observer and the main 
range rising on the opposite side. 

The whole of the French portion 
of the district described in this Sec- 
tion is included in that part of Savoy 
which was neutralised in 181 5 by the 
Great Powers. (See the Introduc- 
tion to Section 11.) 

Full details as to all the peaks and 
passes in the range of Mont Blanc 
will be found in M. Louis Kurz's 
< The Chain of Mont Blanc ' (1892), 
a volume of the ' Climbers' Guides ' 
series. (The French edition, pub- 
lished at the same time, contains, in 
addition, a complete bibliography of 
the range. ) M. Charles Durier's ad- 
mirable history of Mont Blanc itself, 
4 Le Mont Blanc' (fourth edition, 
1897) is a model of its kind, and 
should be consulted by any one de- 
siring to know how the highest sum- 
mit in the Alps was discovered by 
travellers, and later thoroughly ex- 
plored and overrun. It is a re- 
markable fact that no one really 
satisfactory map of the whole chain 
of Mont Blanc was, till 1896, given 
to the world. That constructed by 
the unassisted exertions of Mr. 



33Q PENNINE ALPS. § 16. MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



Adams-Reilly (1865) cleared up 
many topographical points, indeed, 
and took in the whole chain, but 
gave no heights. The best on the 
whole was that by M. Mieulet (1865, 
4 0(7oo)' ^ough it doss not show the 
entire chain. But in 1896, at last, a 
really good map of the range, from 
the Col du Bonhomme to the Catogne, 
was issued. This is the map (-q^) 
by Herr X. Imfeld, based on the 
long-continued researches on the spot 
of M. L. Kurz. The heights given 
in the following pages are throughout 
(with the limits of the map) derived 
from this map by M. Kurz, on whose 
observations with a theodolite, made 
in 1893 and 1894, they are founded. 
One by the MM. Vallot (^), in 
twelve sheets, is in preparation, but 
will not be completed for many years. 
The sketch map of the Bre- 

vent-Belvedere range, just N. of the 
Chamonix valley, published by MM. 
Vallot in vol. xix. of the ' Annuaire 
du Club Alpin Francais 5 (1892), is 
the only one which gives an accurate 
representation of that range. It is 
difficult to account for the fact that 
so well known a range has hitherto 
been so badly surveyed ; in the case 
of the main chain, the fact that it is 
divided between three countries ex- 
plains, if it fails to justify, the very 
curious existing state of things. 



Route A. 

GENEVA TO CHAMONIX. EXCUR- 
SIONS FROM CHAMONIX. 

M. 

Annemasse . . 3^ 

Monnetier-Mornex . 5^ 

La Roche sur Foron 13! 

Bonneville . . 20^ 
Cluses . . . 

Sallanches . . 38 1 

Le Fayet „ . 43 

Chamonix . . 54! 

Railway open to Le Fayet, in progress 
(electric line) to Chamonix. Trains to 
Cluses in ij hr. , and to Le Fayet in 



#hr. more ; diligence on to Chamonix 
in 2V hrs. Travellers from Paris 
wishing to avoid Swiss territory may 
do so by taking the railway from 
Bellegarde (between Culoz and 
Geneva) to Annemasse (24J m., 
1^ hr.) Note that the Cornavin 
station (r. bank) at Geneva, where 
the Paris, Swiss, and Italian trains 
arrive, is about a mile from the Eaux 
Vives station (1. bank), whence the 
trains for the Cluses and Annecy line 
(with its branches) depart. 
There is a fine alternative route to Cha- 
monix from Aix les Bains and Annecy 
by way of Flumet and Me"geve, the 
through service accomplishing the 
distance from Annecy in about n hrs. 
(See § 11. Rte. H.) 

Geneva (375 m., 1,230 ft.) is 
the capital of the smallest Canton, 
save that of Zug, in the Swiss Con- 
federation, and is the third most 
populous city in Switzerland, but 
perhaps the richest, and certainly 
one of the most important. In part 
through its natural advantages, in 
part through the intellectual activity 
of its inhabitants, but mainly because 
(with the exception of the French 
domination between 1798 and 18 14) 
it has maintained for several cen- 
turies its political independence 
against all attacks, it has held a 
place in Europe quite dispropor- 
tioned to its population and re- 
sources. Within the last half- 
century the town has been almost 
rebuilt, especially that portion of it 
on the r. bank of the Rhone, and 
has thus put on an aspect of wealth 
and stateliness befitting its admirable 
natural position at the outlet of what 
many regard as the finest of the 
Swiss lakes, in a rich strip of country 
that lies, as in a bay, between the 
Jura and the Alps. Most of its fine 
buildings are modern, save the 
Cathedral Church of St. Pierre (re- 
cently restored), which dates from 
the late twelfth and early thirteenth 
centuries, and has the interesting 
4 Chapelle des Macchabees,' built in 
1406. There are a splendid Public 
Lib?-ary, containing many valuable 



ROUTE A. GENEV 



7A TO CHAMONIX 



331 



MSS. and books, a Natural History 
Museum (with the geological collec- 
tion of Saussure and the botanical 
collection of Candolle, besides 
other objects of importance), an 
Archceological Museum, and an 
Historical Museum (in the Arsenal), 
all three in the University buildings. 
The Musee Rath has many pictures, 
mostly by local artists, the Musee 
Ariana a magnificent collection of 
art treasures of all kinds, and the 
Musee Fol many antiquities of various 
periods. Those interested in the 
Alps will be especially drawn to the 
Jardin Alpin d^ Acclimatation, in the 
Chemin Dancet (Alpine plants may 
here be purchased). A little to the 
S.E. of the pretty Jardin Anglais on 
the L bank of the Rhone, are several 
erratic blocks in the lake, the largest 
of which is called the Pierre du 
Nit 07t, the name being taken from a 
traditional belief that it was an altar 
to the god Neptune. Its height was 
determined many years ago as 377 m. 
(1,237 ft.), but the result of later 
observations, made by more accurate 
processes, is 374 m. (1,227 ft-) As 
this stone has been taken by the 
Swiss surveyors as the basis of their 
hypsometrical calculations it follows 
that all heights on the Swiss maps are 
3 m. (nearly 10 ft. ) too high. For 
this reason the heights on the Swiss 
bit of Herr Imfeld's map (mentioned 
in the Introduction to this Section) 
differ by 3 m. from those on the 
Swiss Government maps. 

The Public Walks in and 
about the town may challenge 
comparison with those of any 
city in Europe. The magnificent 
Pont du Mont Blanc commands 
an even finer view than the Pont des 
Bergues, a little below. But the 
latter bridge is connected with the 
He J. J. Rousseau (on which is a fine 
statue by Pradier), dividing the waters 
of the * arrowy Rhone ' just as they 
issue from the lake, and so deserves 
a visit also. The Promenades de la 
Treille and des Bastions, on the site 
of the old bastions, are also worth a 



stroll. The best view of Mont Blanc 
is obtained from the Quai du Mont 
Blanc, on the r. bank of the river, 
close to the fine new street of that 
name leading from the Cornavin or 
main railway station to the Pont du 
Mont Blanc. 

The environs of Geneva are studded 
with Villas, which for the most part 
command beautiful views of the lake 
and the mountains. The junction of 
the Rhone and the Arve about 1 m. 
W. of the town is worth a visit. 
The latter stream is laden with the 
impalpable powder into which the 
rocks of Mont Blanc are ground be- 
neath the glaciers that feed the 
torrent, and, in addition to this, with 
the detritus of the sedimentary de- 
posits through which it flows from 
Sallanches to Geneva ; while the 
waters of the Rhone, after depositing 
their impurities in the bed of the 
lake, acquire the exquisite blue tint 
that fascinates the ordinary observer, 
and long puzzled men of science. 

The mountaineer, when within 
sight of the snowy Alps, is not likely 
to halt long at Geneva ; but among 
the numerous points of view which 
may be reached from that city there 
are some that in their way can 
scarcely be surpassed. The range of 
the Jura, extending from the Mont 
Colombier, near Culoz, to Soleure, 
forms a natural terrace from which to 
survey the Swiss and Savoyard Alps. 
A traveller who ascends to a height of 
3,000 or 4,000 ft. anywhere in the 
range overlooks the intermediate 
lower country, while his eye takes in 
a considerable portion of the great 
girdle of snowy peaks that encloses 
the upper basin of the Rhone. The 
effect of this panorama is immeasur- 
ably increased when a broad expanse 
of water lies in the space between 
the eye and the distant background ; 
and hence it is that the finest views 
from the Jura are those obtained 
from the parts of the range near the 
W. end of the Lake of Geneva, or 
from above Neuchatel. The latter 
position is the more central, being 



332 PENNINE ALPS. § 16. MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



about equidistant from the highest 
peaks of the Mont Blanc chain and 
the Bernese Oberland Alps. The 
Jura above Geneva is much nearer 
Mont Blanc than the Bernese chain, 
the former being about 60 m. distant, 
and the panorama, though more striking 
towards the S. W. , is less complete ; but 
the Lake of Geneva (or Lac Leman), 
extending from the spectator's feet 
for a distance of 40 m., with its 
broad channel gradually contracted 
between heights that rise higher and 
higher on either side until they merge 
in the background of snowy peaks, 
is an object which, when once seen 
under favourable circumstances, can 
never be forgotten. To enjoy this 
view it is not necessary to reach the 
higher summits of the Jura, which 
surpass by some 1,400 ft. the general 
level of the range. It may be ob- 
tained, without trouble, by mounting 
the old road from Geneva to Dijon 
by Gex, in France (2 hrs. by dili- 
gence) to (7 m. from Gex) the Col de 
la Faitcille (1,323 m., 4,341 ft.), or 
rather less perfectly from the road 
(which was at a later time preferred) 
from Nyon (13J m. by the railway 
towards Lausanne) by St. Cergnes 
(9 m. ), in Switzerland, to the pass 
leading over the crest to (8 m. ) Les 
Rousses. The road from Geneva 
to Gex passes by Ferney (35 min. 
from Geneva by steam tramway), 
long inhabited by Voltaire. The 
pedestrian will be tempted to reach 
the summit of the Dole, 1,678 m., 
5,505 ft. (lying wholly in Swiss ter- 
ritory), between these two roads. 
This is, perhaps, the most desirable 
point from which to view this match- 
less panorama. It takes about 2 hrs. 
from the Col de la Faucille, or from 
the villages of St. Cergues or Les 
Rousses ; the latter should be pre- 
ferred as a starting point, as then the 
view comes suddenly before the 
spectator's eyes. The Dole, being 
only surpassed in the Jura by the 
Cret de la Neige (1,723 m., 
5,653 ft.) and the Reculet (1,720 m., 
5,643 ft. ) (for both see below), and 



the Mont Ttndre (1, 680 m., 5,512 ft.), 
overlooks an extensive horizon to the 
N. and W. , while at its W. base lies 
the Vallee des Dappes (through which 
the road descends from the Col de la 
Faucille by La Vattay to Les Rousses 
in 1 if m.), in dispute between France 
and Switzerland from at least 181 5, 
but in 1862 the subject of a friendly 
compromise. 

The Reculet (1.720 m., 5 , 643 ft. ) 
is the second summit of the Jura, and 
lies a little S.W. of Geneva. It does 
not command quite so fine a view as 
the Dole, but is more interesting to 
the naturalist because of its varied 
flora. It is best gained in about 
4 hrs. by way of Thoiry (5 m. above 
Satigny) from Satigny, a station 
6J- m. from Geneva on the line to 
Bellegarde. Hence it is easy to follow 
the ridge N.E. to the Ci'et de la 
Neige (1,723 m., 5,653 ft), the 
culminating point of the entire Jura 
range ; from it it is easy to descend in 
2\ hrs. to Lelex, 7 m. by road from 
Mijotix, which is 2 m. from the Col 
de la Faucille on the E. 

The Saleve is a ridge of lime- 
stone, lying S. of Geneva, and 
divided into the Grand Saleve and 
the Petit Saleve by a depression 
where stands the village of Mon- 
netier. It is a very fine point of 
view, and is now easily accessible by 
rail. From Geneva there is a steam 
tram to either Ftrembieres (f hr. 
from the Place du Molard), at its N. 
foot, or to Veyrier (§ hr. from the 
Cour de Rive), on the W. side. From 
either place runs an electric tramway, 
the two lines meeting at Monnetier- 
Mairie station. Thence it mounts to 
the Plateau des Treize Arbres (patois 
form of * trois '), 1,184 m., 3,885 
f. (1 hr. from either place), the 
summit of the Grand Saleve being 
J hr. further on. The Petit Saleve 
(902 m. , 2,959 ft. ) is gained in a short 
half-hour's walk from Monnetier. 
The highest point on the Saleve is 
the Grand Pit on ( 1 , 380 m. , 4, 528 ft. ), 
which may be reached in 2 hrs. from 
the summit, generally visited by fol- 



ROUTE A. GENEVA TO CHAMONIX 



333 



lowing the ridge in a S.W. direction. 
On the W. side towards Geneva the 
Saleve forms an escarpment so steep 
as to be only practicable in a few 
places, notably the Pas de PEchelle, a 
staircase cut in the rock, near which 
runs the electric tramway from Vey- 
rier to the depression between the 
two points of the Saleve. Another 
is the path through the Grande Gorge, 
from Bossey, on the N.W., which is 
further S. This gully is often visited 
by botanists. Fatal accidents have 
arisen from attempts to descend from 
the Saleve through gullies which are 
practicable above, but become gradu- 
ally steeper, and terminate in preci- 
pices. The mountain is rich in rare 
plants, among which Arabis saxa- 
tilis, Hieracuim andryaloides, and 
H. glaucum, and Orobanche Laser- 
pitii may be specified. The S.E. 
slope of the mountain facing the 
valley of the Arve is covered with 
blocks of protogine, which have been 
evidently transported from the Mont 
Blanc chain. 

There are two other view points 
which may be visited from Geneva, 
but they are rather more distant than 
those already mentioned. The Voi- 
rons (1,480 m., 4,856 ft.), on the E., 
can be reached in 2\ hrs. from the 
Bons-St. Didier station, 12J m. from 
Geneva on the Thonon line (§ 17. 
Rte. K). The Mole (1,869 m., 
6,132 ft.), on the S. E. , is best reached 
in 3^ hrs. from Bonneville (see 
below), or in 4 hrs. from St. Jeoire, 
a station 16 \ m. from Geneva by the 
steam tramway to Samoens (§ 17. 
Rte. A). 



From the Eaux Vives station at 
Geneva the railway to Cluses runs 
E. past Chene Bourg, and, entering 
France across the Foron, soon after 
reaches Annemasse, whence the lines 
to Thonon and Bouveret (§17, Rte. K) 
and to Bellegarde (24 m. ) branch 
off, as well as the steam tramway to 
Samoens (§17. Rte. A). It soon tra- 
verses the Arve, and continues S.E. 



above its 1. bank till near Bonne- 
ville. The Monnetier- Mornex station, 
5 -J m. (for the Saleve see above, but 
it is better to go by tramway, as 
there are not many trains a day by 
the railway), is close to the junction 
of the Menoge with the Arve. 3|m. 
beyond is Reignier, near w T hich there 
are a very large quantity of erratic 
boulders. In 13I m. from Geneva 
the train reaches the junction of La 
Roche sur Foron (picturesquely situ- 
ated on the 1. bank of the Foron), 
where the line to Annecy and Aix les 
Bains (§11. Rtes. E and F) leaves the 
main line. On quitting La Roche 
the Cluses line descends to the 1. and 
crosses successively the Foron, the 
Borne, and the Arve, before reaching 
(2o| m. ) the station of 

Bonneville, which is on the r. bank 
of the Arve, just E. of the town. 
This town was formerly the capital of 
the Faucigny, the ruined eleventh- 
century castle whence the province 
got its name standing on a steep 
rock, about 4 m. N.E. of the town, 
on the r. bank of the Arve. Bonne- 
ville stands in the valley of the Arve, 
between the Mole on the N.E. and 
the Brezon on the S.E. 

[The Mole (1,869 m., 6,132 ft.) 
can be reached in about 3^- hrs. by way 
of the Bovere huts, on its W., and the 
Petit Mole, 1,518 m., 4,981 ft. (a 
grassy shoulder on the S., f hr. below 
the summit), on which is a small inn 
or glorified Club hut. The Mole is a 
conical mountain which makes a great 
show from below, while the view of the 
snowy mountains from the summit is 
even finer than that from the Saleve, 
as it is much nearer to them. The 
ascent from St. Jeoire (§17. Rte. A) 
is longer and steeper. The Brezon, 
or Pointe d^Aiidey (1,879 m -> 
6,165 ft.), is a favourite resort of 
botanists, and may be ascended in 
3f hrs. from Bonneville, there being 
now a char road to the village of 
Brizon (5f m. ), whence the summit 
is attained from the S.E., but it may 
also be gained by way of Andey, on 
the N.W. From Brizon it is easy to 



334 PENNINE ALPS. § 16. MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



go E. by the village of Mont Saxon- 
nex to Marnaz, on the high road, 
about 3 m. from Cluses. For the 
road from Bonneville by the valley of 
the Borne and the Col de St. Jean de 
Sixt to Thones andAnnecy see § II, 
Rte. F. and for that to Thonon see 
§17. Rte L.3 

The railway follows the r. bank of 
the Arve for some distance, then 
bends N.E. along the same bank 
of the Giffre, and crosses it to 
(4J- m. ) the station of Marignier, 
at the S.E. foot of the Mole. (Hence 
a steam tramway runs N. to the Pont 
du Risse station, J m. from St. 
Jeoire, on the Samoens tramway, 
§17. Rte. A.) The line once more 
bends S. E. , and nears the Arve, on the 
r. bank of which is situated (29J m.) 

Cluses, a small town at the mouth 
of the Arve gorge, whence it derives 
its name. It was rebuilt after a great 
fire in 1844, and is devoted to watch- 
making. (For the carriage road over 
the Col de Chatillon to Taninges, 
and the direct routes by Araches to 
Samoens, see § 17. Rte. A. 2 ; for that 
by the Lac de Flaine to Sixt, § 17. 
Rte. B. 1 ; and for those through the 
Reposoir glen on the S. , § 1 1. Rte. G. ) 

Below Cluses, which is but 360 ft. 
above the level of the Lake of 
Geneva, the Arve has flowed in a 
wide bed through a comparatively 
open country. Above Cluses it passes 
for several miles through a narrow 
defile, which forms a worthy portal 
to the grand scenery that awaits the 
traveller who would approach its 
sources in the glaciers of the chain of 
Mont Blanc. This defile, which 
mounts nearly due S., is known as 
the Vallee de Mag/and, and lies be- 
tween the limestone range separating 
the Arve from the Giffre, on the E., 
and a nearly vertical wall of rock, on 
the W. , which extends continuously 
to the Pointe Percee du Reposoir, 
above the Chartreuse du Reposoir. 
The new railway line follows the 
new carriage road, running for 
long between it and the Arve. 
At the station of La Balme, 2 m. 



beyond Cluses, the defile opens a 
little, and a slope of debris, 750 ft. 
high, marks the spot where a cavern 
penetrates for about 1,000 ft. into 
the limestone. ( It is sometimes visited 
by passers-by (2 hrs. there and back, 
fees), but is not particularly well 
worth the delay to any one who has 
seen similar caverns, common in all 
limestone districts. ) The road, which 
keeps on the r. bank of the Arve 
from Cluses to near the Nant 
d'Arpenaz, passes opposite the hamlet 
of ChamoniX) on the other side of the 
river. As M. Durier has pointed 
out (p. 44), this village is closed in 
('munitus') on all sides by the 
mountain behind, a torrent, and the 
river, so that the real meaning of the 
name of the better known village of 
Chamonix is here perfectly set forth. 
Further on a powerful spring bursts 
out by the road -side. This was sup- 
posed by Saussure to be the out- 
let of the Lac de Flaine, an Alpine 
tarn high up on the E., on the way 
to Sixt (§ 17. Rte. B). Immediately 
beyond is (4m. from Cluses) the station 
of Mag/and, and a little further the 
Chateau of Be//egarde, whence the path 
to Sixt (as above) turns off. 7 m. from 
Cluses the new road and line cross be- 
yond Oex (station) to the L bank of the 
Arve, the old road continuing along 
the r. bank (for a description see 
below). Soon after the traveller sees 
on the r. bank of the Arve the Nant 
(FArpenaz, one of the highest water- 
falls of the Alps. It is about 1 50 ft. 
from top to bottom, but, except after 
heavy rain, or in the spring, the 
volume of water is so small that it is 
broken into spray long before it 
reaches the lower ledge, and, save at 
such times, it is scarcely worth the 
trouble to approach it nearer than the 
road. The valley widens, and the 
summit of Mont Blanc comes into 
sight as the traveller draws nearer to 
(38I m. from Geneva, m. from 
Cluses) 

Sallanches (546m., 1,791 ft.), a 
little town rebuilt after a disastrous 
fire in 1840. (For the path to Sixt 



ROUTE A. GENEVA TO CHAMONIX 



335 



by the Desert de Plate see §17. Rte. 
B. 2. and for the very beautiful paths 
and roads by Megeve and Flumet 
to Annecy and Albertville see § 1 1. 
Rte. H. ) Opposite Sallanches, and 
separated from it by an old bridge, 
whence a wonderful view of Mont 
Blanc is obtained, is the village of 
,57. Mar Hit. 

[From Sallanches the Aiguille de 
Varens (2,488 m., 8,163 ft.), which 
immediately overhangs the valley 
on the E., may be climbed in 
about 6 hrs. by a path mounting 
through tiers of grand limestone 
cliffs, and the higher Poiiite du 
Colloney (2,692 m., 8,832 ft.) in 
about the same time. The curious 
Desert de Plate may be visited on the 
way back. (For details see §17. Rte. 
B. 2. ) From Sallanches the Pointe 
Perce e du Reposoir (2,752 m., 9,029 
ft.), on the W. , may also be as- 
cended in 4J hrs. , but this route in- 
volves a great detour, while it is also 
accessible from the Reposoir or Grand 
Bornand valleys. (See § II. Rte. G. )] 

The view of Mont Blanc from 
this part of the valley of the 
Arve is justly celebrated, and is, 
indeed, in some respects unique in 
the Alps. The views of the higher 
mountains, when not seen from a 
great distance, are almost always, in 
the case of ordinary travellers, gained 
from some narrow valley, where a 
limited portion only can be seen, or 
else from some ridge or summit that 
overlooks the intermediate valleys. 
Here at the foot of the range of Mont 
Blanc the valley of the Arve, be- 
tween the mouths of the defiles of 
Magland and of Montjoie, opens out 
in a broad basin, with by far the 
greater part of the W. end of the 
range fully in view, a fertile plain in 
the foreground, and the pine -covered 
heights that enclose St. Gervais fill- 
ing the middle distance. In perfect 
symmetry, without the sameness that 
is the fault of human architecture, 
Mont Blanc occupies the centre of 
the picture, the Dome and Aiguille 
du Gouter being merged into its 



mass. To the L are seen the Mont 
M audit and the Mont Blanc du 
Tacul, and beyond them the Chamo- 
nix Aiguilles, from the Midi to the 
Verte. On the r. the Aiguille de 
Bionnassay rises in all its beauty, 
flanked by the Dome de Miage, and 
other peaks between it and the Col 
du Bonhomme. The Bionnassay and 
N. Miage glaciers are seen surrounded 
by the formidably steep ridges that 
enclose their upper basins, and a 
great part of the way to the summit 
of Mont Blanc by the St. Gervais 
route, and a part of that over the 
Col de Miage, may be traced in de- 
tail through the glass. It is true 
that the distance in a direct line to 
the summit of Mont Blanc is very 
nearly 14 m. , but, as it is raised 
14,000 ft. above the level of the 
valley, the angular elevation is as 
great as is compatible with a general 
view. Monte Rosa, as seen from the 
head of the Val Anzasca, is a more 
wonderful, perhaps also a more 
fascinating, object, but for massive 
and stately grandeur this aspect of 
Mont Blanc surpasses all rivals. The 
view is well seen from the high road, 
but better by mounting some ten 
minutes behind Sallanches to a point 
whence many old pictures were taken. 

The new line and road to Chamonix 
run through the broad, nearly level 
valley in a S.E. direction, some dis- 
tance from the 1. bank of the Arve, 
past the Pas sy-D oman cy station (2J 
m.), for 4J m. to the Le Fayet-St. 
Gervais station, J- m. beyond which, 
at the bridge over the Bon Nant, 
the routes to the village of St. 
Gervais (2| m. distant ; the Baths of 
St. Gervais are only c. \ m. off) and 
the Col du Bonhomme (see Rte. E, 
below) branch off. 

From that bridge the new road bends 
abruptly to the N.E. in order to turn 
(on the 1. bank of the Arve, as be- 
fore) the N. base of the Vaudagne, 
©r Tete Noire, a ridge which is the 
last spur of the Aiguille du Gouter, 
and projects in such a fashion as to 
appear to block the main valley above 



336 PENNINE ALPS. § 16. MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



Sallanches. The ridge also forms a 
barrier across the S.W. end of the 
valley of Chamonix, and would long 
ago have converted it into a lake if 
the waters of the Arve had not found 
a circuitous outlet through a gorge, 
partly cut by the river itself, round 
the N. base of the Vaudagne. 
Through this gorge the new road 
ascends, at a considerable height 
above the Arve, until leaving the 
river it enters through a deep cut- 
ting the basin of Le Chdtelard. 
Passing out of it through a short 
tunnel, it winds, now in a S. direc- 
tion, through a fir wood, well above 
the river, and is joined by the old 
road from Servoz at the Pont Pelis- 
sier (7 m. from Le Fayet). Many 
erratic boulders and many traces of 
former glacial action are seen near 
the road. Presently it crosses to 
the r. bank of the Arve, a little 
below Les Houches, but soon re- 
crosses to the 1. bank, and enters 
the valley proper of Chamonix. 

£The old road commands more pic- 
turesque views, and is strongly recom- 
mended to all travellers who are not 
in a great hurry to reach Chamonix. 
From Sallanches it crosses the bridge 
to St. Martin, and thenceforth fol- 
lows the r. bank of the Arve to 
the Pont Pelissier, which it crosses to 
join the more modern road. It 
passes underneath Passy, above which 
on the N. is a great terrace of pasture, 
commanding noble views of Mont 
Blanc. The Arve is retained within 
its bed by massive embankments. 
The road begins to ascend near 
Ckedde, not far from which was for- 
merly a little lake celebrated for the 
reflections of the snowy peak of Mont 
Blanc set in an exquisite framework 
of rock and pine forest, but it was 
completely choked up with rocks and 
debris by a landslip in 1837. A little 
further the road crosses the Nant 
Noir, a torrent that borrows its name 
from the anthracitic slates through 
which it descends. The defile opens 
a little at the village of Servoz 
(9 m. from Sallanches), which 



lies in a meadow basin at the 
mouth of the Diosaz glen. Here are 
some fine gorges now made accessible 
by wooden ladders, and a favourite 
resort of tourists from Chamonix. 
(Through this glen the Buet may be 
reached in hrs. (§ i7.Rte.E. 1). For 
the route to Sixt by the Portettaz or the 
Col du Derochoir, and the Col d'An- 
terne, see § 17. Rtes. B and D.) By 
the bridge over the Diosaz is a monu- 
ment to F. A. Eschen, a German 
translator of Horace, who perished on 
the Buet in 1800. To the geologist 
the Diosaz valley is interesting from 
the fossil remains which abound on 
its N. slopes. Above Servoz (which 
is 7-J m. from Chamonix) the gorge 
of the Arve is again contracted, and 
in about if m. the road passes over 
the Pont Pelissier to join the new 
road on the 1. bank, described above. )J 
On emerging from the defile of the 
Arve the road looks along the 
whole length of the valley of 
Chamonix to the Col de Balme, 
at its E. extremity. The first im- 
pression of the stranger on entering 
this famous valley is probably that 
of disappointment. Its direction, 
parallel instead of perpendicular to 
the main range, leaves no striking 
object to close the vista, and the 
great Aiguilles which enclose the 
Mer de Glace, and which, as seen 
from the valley, are far more striking 
objects than the summit of Mont 
Blanc, are better viewed some miles 
farther on than from the W. end of 
the valley, where the peak of Mont 
Blanc also is concealed behind the 
huge mass of the Dome du Gouter. 
The objects which chiefly attract 
attention are the great glaciers 
descending along the S« side of the 
valley through each of the openings 
that give access to the upper level 
where the snows accumulate. The 
two nearest comparatively insignifi- 
cant glaciers are the Gl. de la Griaz 
and the Gl. du Bourgeat, lying on 
the steep N. slope of the Aiguille du 
Gouter. Beyond these is the Gl. de 
Taconnaz, divided by the Montagne 



ROUTE A. GENEVA TO CHAMONIX 



337 



de la Cote from the still more 
imposing GL des Bos softs. Farther 
off, behind the village of Chamonix, 
is the GL des Bots, but the great 
glaciers of Argentiere and Tour are 
not visible. The effect is most 
striking to one who arrives late, and 
has the good fortune to see the 
glaciers partially lighted by the moon 
in her second quarter. By daylight 
the colour of the ice is less brilliantly 
white than is commonly expected, 
and the eye, still unused to the grand 
scale of all the surrounding objects, 
does not adequately estimate the 
dimensions of these vast streams of ice. 

From the bridge over the Arve 
the road passes by the hamlet of 
La Griaz (the old road passed by 
Les Houches, on the way to passes 
leading to Contamines and St. 
Gervais, Rte. E). (The anthracite 
deposits of Les Coupeaux or Le 
Couppoz, on the opposite bank of 
the Arve, deserve a visit.) It then 
ascends gently along the bank of the 
Arve during the 4 miles that lead to the 
village. About half-way, just after 
passing the lower end of the Gl. des 
Bossons, the road crosses back to the 
r. bank of the Arve, and the great 
Aiguilles surrounding the Mer de 
Glace come into view as the traveller 
approaches (54J m. from Geneva) 

Chamonix (1,041 m., 3,416 ft.), 
which, as is usual in the Alps in the 
case of the chief village, bears the 
name of the valley, but is locally 
distinguished as Le Prieure, from the 
old monastery formerly existing here. 
It is a large village, now nearly a 
town, subsisting by the great influx of 
strangers who come either to enjoy 
grand scenery or to follow a prevail- 
ing fashion. When the railway is 
completed from Le Fayet, and still 
more when that from Vernayaz is 
built, it will be even more overrun 
with tourists than at present. Moun- 
taineers making any stay in this 
neighbourhood generally prefer to take 
up their quarters at the Montenvers 
Hotel, 2 hrs. above the village (see 
below, Excursion 2). Besides the 
I. 



usual kind of shops to be found in 
tourist centres, there are only two 
things that will arrest the attention. 
One is the lately-erected statue of 
Saussure and Jacques Balmat. It 
stands on the square on the 1. bank 
of the Arve. Near the English 
church is the Gallery of Alpine 
pictures by M. Gabriel Loppe : it is 
permanently open, and the views of 
the ice regions to be seen there are 
well worth a visit. 

The chief summer occupation of 
the men in the valley is that of guide. 
With very few exceptions, how- 
ever, the present generation of 
Chamonix guides is far below the 
standard set before them by their 
predecessors 30 years ago. This 
decline in reputation, so far as high 
mountaineering is concerned, is no 
doubt, in part, due to the absurd 
regulations which long kept back the 
more enterprising men, placing them 
on very nearly the same footing with 
mule-leaders. Certain changes were 
made many years ago, in consequence 
of representations made by the 
Alpine Club, but several objectionable 
features still remained in the rules. 
In 1892 the State withdrew its 
sanction from the Regulations, the 
whole matter being left to the local 
authorities, who have full power of 
licensing, &c. But though this 
alteration produced good effects at 
first, we are informed that the old 
regulations are being revived, and 
that in the summer of 1897 the state 
of things was very much as before, 
barring the necessity of obtaining the 
sanction of the higher authorities. 

Much nonsense has been written as 
to the supposed i discovery ' of 
Chamonix in the last century. But 
the publication of M. Bonnefoy's 
great collection of mediaeval docu- 
ments relating to the valley (Cham- 
bery, 2 vols., 1879 an d 1883), 
conveniently summarised in M. Andre 
Perrin's History of the valley 
(Chambery, 1887), has thrown a flood 
of light on its early history, while 
many particulars can be gleaned from 

z 



338 PENNINE ALPS. § 16. MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



other sources. We first hear of the 
valley in a charter of 1091 by which 
Count Aymo of the Genevois and his 
son Ceroid granted the valley (the 
limits of which are carefully defined) 
to the great Benedictine monastery 
of St. Michel de la Cluse, near 
Turin. There is nothing in this 
document to show that the valley 
was then inhabited. Most* probably 
it was simply a mountain pasturage, 
used in summer only, and in that case 
this gift would present a striking 
analogy to that of the acquisition (in 
999 from the archbishop of Milan) 
of the pasture basin of Macugnaga 
by the Benedictines of Arona. Pro- 
bably some shepherds permanently 
settled in the valley in the course of 
the twelfth century. For in 1 202 the 
lord of Faucigny and in 1205 the 
count of the Genevois renewed their 
promises of protection ; while in the 
former document we hear of a certain 
Aymo, who was then ' chaplain ' of 1 
Chamonix, and of Peter ' Prior of 
Megeve ; ' in the latter of Peter, who 
was ' Prior of Megeve and of 
Chamonix;' and in a third of 1224, 
of Humbert, ' Prior of Chamonix.' 
It would thus appear that early in the 
thirteenth century a Benedictine \ 
priory (dedicated to St. Michel), 
dependent on St. Michel de la Cluse, 
was established in the valley. It 
came into existence later than the 
first settlement of permanent inhabit- 
ants, but, though never large (four 
monks at most, including the cure 
of Chamonix), it gradually gained all 
rights in the valley, and limited the 
old chartered liberties of the inhabit- 
ants. Henceforward the history of 
the Priory and of the valley are one. 
In 1 519, by the inexplicable action of 
the last Prior, William II. de la 
Ravoire (for his family then held all 
the great offices in the valley), the 
priory was annexed to the collegiate 
church of Sallanches, which promised 
to maintain one of its canons as its 
resident representative at Chamonix. 
This transfer was made without the 
consent of the abbat of St. Michel de 



la Cluse, which was only given in 
1 522. It is interesting to note that 
the nave and the bell tower of the 
parish church were always the 
property of the men of Chamonix, 
the Priory, later the Chapter, owning 
the choir only. This shows that there 
was a church there before the founda- 
tion of the Priory, at which date it 
was probably rebuilt, the date 11 19 
having been found in 1864 on a stone 
when the portico was reconstructed. 
The buildings of the Priory (close to 
the existing church) were destroyed 
by fire in 1758, and in 1786 the men 
of the valley bought their freedom 
from all feudal dues owed to the 
Chapter, the connection with St. 
Michel de la Cluse then disappearing 
entirely. In 1793 tne landed pro- 
perty of the Chapter in the valley 
came into the possession of the ' com- 
mune,' the first mention of which 
occurs in 1264. It is a typical 
history of a mountain village, 
resembling that of Grindelwald (de- 
pendent on the monastery of Inter : 
laken), but differing from the history 
of the ' free community ' of Zermatt. 

Of course it had relations with the 
outer world. In the Priory accounts 
for 1399 are all the details of the 
expenses of a journey of two men 
and two horses to Geneva and back. 
The valley was visited by its diocesan, 
the bishop of Geneva, in 141 1, 1443. 
1471, 14S1, and 1517 ; the Refor- 
mation compelled the bishops of 
Geneva to take up their residence at 
Annecy (only erected into a see in 
1822), and it was thence that in 1606 
St. Francois de Sales, e Bishop and 
Prince of Geneva,' came to Chamonix, 
and officiated in the church, rebuilt 
in 1602. In 1530 the right of hold- 
ing two fairs a year was granted by 
the then count of the Genevois and 
lord of Faucigny, Philip of Savoy- 
Nemours, a cadet branch of the ducal 
House of Savoy, and thither came 
many foreign merchants, while from 
1533 the inhabitants had the privilege 
of holding a market every Thursday. 
The civil officials too came to 



ROUTE A. GENEVA TO CHAMONIX 339 



Chamonix (e.g. in 1700) to collect 
dues and taxes, so that it is clear that 
long before the arrival of tourists the 
valley had its own independent life, 
and was well known outside, though 
it is probable that the removal of the 
bishops of Geneva to Annecy about 
1535 broke its immediate link with 
Geneva, where memories of it 
became dim. 

The first recorded tourist (in 
any sense of the word) found his 
way hither in 1669. This was 
M. Le Pays, a high financial official 
in Dauphine, and a well - known 
person in the salons of Paris (probably 
sent on a mission of enquiry by the 
duke of Savoy). His letter from 
Chamonix, describing the horrors of 
the place and its surroundings, is, 
therefore, a document of great his- 
torical interest. Other travellers, for 
the sake of their pleasure, are known 
to have followed him, but it was in 
1 741 that the valley was visited by a 
traveller who first gave (1744) a 
detailed account of his experiences, 
though he mentions that others had 
been thither before him. This was 
William Windham, a young English- 
man of about 22 years of age, who with 
his tutor, Dr. Pococke, the Orientalist, 
Lord Haddington, and five other 
English friends came to Chamonix. 
Their description of the horrors of 
the way and wonders seen there is 
most vivid. They made an excur- 
sion to the Montenvers and Mer de 
Glace only, but legend has it (con- 
tradicting recorded facts) that they 
slept near the ice under the so-called 
4 Pierre des Anglais,' which was later 
split by a shepherd's fire, and 
replaced by one (still in existence 
and in situ : see Excursion 2. below) 
with the inscription, 6 Pococke et 
Windham.' This expedition drew 
attention to the ice fields near 
Chamonix, so that in 1742 Pierre 
Martel and four other Genevese 
went to see them, and they also 
set down their impressions. Saus- 
sure's first visit was in 1760, and the 
first French traveller to describe his 



experiences of his journey to Chamonix 
was the Due de la Rochefoucauld 
d'Enville in 1762. A few years later 
(certainly by 1769) Bourrit appeared 
on the scene, and the modern invasion 
had begun. 

The origin of the name of Chamonix 
is undoubtedly the Latin * campus 
munitus,' under which it appears from 
1 09 1 onwards. According to M. 
Perrin, the vernacular forms of the 
name most frequently met with in 
mediaeval documents are ' Chamoni,' 
4 Chamony,' and ' Chamounis, ' the two 
earliest being < Chammonis ' (1229) 
and 4 Chamonix ' (1236), so that the 
current and official form seems to have 
greater authority than the ' Chamouni ' 
used in previous editions of this work. 
The name is obviously taken from 
the level valley or ' campus, ' fenced 
or shut in, 'munitus,' by the great 
mountain wall on all sides. Another 
Chamonix, the position of which 
explains this rather fanciful name, 
has been mentioned above, near 
Magland. 

In the neighbourhood of Chamonix 
the botanist may gather most of the 
characteristic species of the Alpine 
region that grow on the detritus of 
granite rock, but the flora is much 
less rich than in the valleys of Monte 
Rosa, where the rocks vary more in 
mineral composition. M. Venance 
Payot, of Chamonix, is well ac- 
quainted with the local flora, and 
has a fair knowledge of the geology 
of this district. 

The Excursions to be made from 
Chamonix are very numerous, vary- 
ing with the tastes and physical 
strength of visitors ; but they fall 
into two principal divisions, accord- 
ing as the object is to approach the 
great glaciers and peaks of the 
central range (1-8, below), or to 
seek a more general view from some 
point in the range, commonly called 
the Aiguilles Rouges, on the N. side 
of the valley (9-11, below). 

The chief object of the first class 
of excursions is the Mer de Glace. 
As has been said in the Introduction 
z 2 



PENNINE ALPS. § 16. MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



to this Section, the mass of Mont 
Blanc may be considered to consist 
of two parallel ridges, of which the 
•northern is broken by several wide 
.gaps, through which the snows, 
accumulated in the valley between 
the two ridges, are drained by means 
of great glaciers that descend towards 
the valley of Chamonix. The Glacier 
des Bois, called in its mid region the 
Mer de Glace, is the most important 
of these ^glaciers, by reason of the 
=area which it drains. Without speak- 
ing of minor tributaries, it receives 
the outflow of three great reservoirs. 
The most considerable of these is 
the GL du Geant, or da Tacul, 
which descends on the E. side of the 
central mass of Mont Blanc, between 
a double range of Aiguilles. In the 
opposite direction a reservoir lying 
between the Aiguille Verte and the 
Aiguille de Talefre pours down to 
the W. an ice stream called the 
GL de Talefre, and before reach- 
ing the N. foot of the Aiguille du Tacul 
receives from the S. the GL de 
Leschaux. (The central point where 
these three ice streams meet, opposite 
the Aiguille du Tacul, bears the same 
relation to the adjoining ridges as 
Entreves, at the meeting of the Allee 
Blanche and the Italian Val Ferret, 
near Courmayeur. ) Here the drainage 
of the whole basin is carried off to 
the N. in a broad channel, which 
henceforward bears the name of 4 Mer 
de Glace ' till about 4 m. lower down 
it falls over steep rocks in an ice 
cataract towards the level of the 
valley, where it comes to an end, 
about 3 m. from the village of 
Chamonix. 

1 . Source of the Arveyron. — Those 
who have 2 or 3 hrs. to spare, especi- 
ally if they have not previously seen 
the end of a great glacier, do well to 
visit the spot where the Arveyron, 
one of the sources of the Arve, issues 
from the extremity of the Gl. des 
Bois. This is about 3 m. from 
Chamonix, and is approached by a 
carriage road which passes by the 
hamlets of Les Praz and Les Bois. 



(For pedestrians there is a charming 
path through the woods, on the 1. 
bank of the Arve. ) Shortly before 
reaching the Source the great moraine, 
now overgrown with pine, trees, on 
the r. bank of the Gl. des Bois, 
deserves examination, the Aiguille du 
Dm, seen towering above, being a 
magnificent object. As explained in 
the General Introduction (article on 
Glaciers), the form and position of 
the lower ends of glaciers are subject 
to continual change. In this case 
the stream formerly issued from a 
cavern in the ice, of variable depth, 
and from 30 to 40 ft. in height, whose 
strange aspect and exquisite colour 
often tempted strangers to penetrate 
some distance into it, notwithstanding 
that several fatal accidents have 
happened in consequence of the 
sudden fall of blocks of ice from the 
roof. Of late years, since the retreat 
of the glacier, the stream has com- 
monly escaped from beneath the ice 
at a considerable height above the 
end of the glacier, forming a water- 
fall visible from Chamonix. This 
excursion is, therefore, not now as 
attractive as formerly, but may be 
easily combined with that to the 
Montenvers, or on the return from 
I the Chapeau, or the Flegere. 

2. The Montenvers. — The rocks 
near the ice cataract of the Gl. 
I des Bois being very steep, the most 
convenient way of reaching the middle 
j region of that glacier is to mount from 
Chamonix by a good mule path ( railway 
j projected), winding in an E. direc- 
\ tion up the S. slope of the valley 
j towards a promontory extending from 
I the base of the Aiguilles des Charmoz, 
which form the W. barrier of the 
Mer de Glace. After crossing some 
1 meadows the path ascends through 
a forest, and if the visitor has no 
intention of going beyond the Mont- 
envers Hotel a guide is quite un- 
necessary. Mules take 2\ hrs. in 
the ascent — 2 hrs. more than suffice 
for a good walker. About half-way 
the tracks of avalanches, which have 
destroyed much of the forest, are 



ROUTE A. EXCURSIONS FROM CHAMONIX 341 



frequently passed ; but nervous per- 
sons may feel assured that in the 
tourist season there is no danger 
from that quarter. Towards the end 
of the forest the Aiguille du Dru 
becomes a more and more impressive 
object, but no other conspicuous peak 
is seen until the terrace before the 
Hotel is reached. Then, losing 
sight of the main valley below, the 
traveller suddenly gains that won- 
derful view which suffices to annually 
attract and reward thousands of 
visitors from every part of the world. 
No amount of familiarity, nor even 
the rivalry of scenes, less accessible 
and not less grand, can much lessen 
the impression which this makes 
upon all true lovers of nature. The 
first object that attracts attention is 
the Mer de Glace, so often described 
in vain, for description gives no real 
image of the reality. Of the magnifi- 
cent group of Aiguilles that rise on 
the opposite bank, the Dru (latest 
measurement 3,755 m., 12,320 ft., 
highest point, or Grand Dru ; 3,732 m. , 
12,245 ft., Petit Dru), pre-eminent 
for boldness of form, almost conceals 
the much higher peak of the Aiguille 
Verte (4,127 m., 13,541 ft.), which 
lies behind it. To the r. is the 
Aiguille du Moine (3,413 m. , 
11,198 ft.), appearing behind the 
shattered ridge which descends W. 
from the Petit Dru. At the end of 
the vista, at least twice as distant as 
the Moine, the eye rests upon the 
Grandes Jorasses (4,205 m., 13,797 
ft.), one of the giants of the S. 
ridge of the Mont Blanc range, 
rising at the farther end of the 
Leschaux glacier. This glacier is 
bounded to the W. by a ridge pro- 
jecting towards the spectator, whose 
highest and most distant peak is the 
Mont Mallet (3,988 m., 13,085 ft.), 
while its N. extremity is the Aiguille 
du Tacul (3,438 m., 11,280 ft.) 
Farther to the r. is the Aiguille 
du Giant (4,014 m., 13,170 ft.), 
and then the nearer mass of the 
Aiguilles des Charmoz (3,442 in., 
1 1 , 293 ft. ) and de Blaitiere ( 3, 520 m. , 



11,549 ft.) closes the view on that 
side. The old Pavilion on the Mont- 
envers was replaced, in 1879, by a 
substantial and comfortable stone 
Hotel (1,910 m., 6,267 ft.), capable, 
of accommodating forty or fifty per- 
sons. The large dining-room is gene- 
rally filled to overflowing, in the day 
time, by numbers of visitors from 
Chamonix, who are able to purchase, 
a souvenir of their excursion at the 
4 Bazar ' before continuing their jour- 
ney. Most travellers descend from 
the Hotel to the glacier, and go some: 
short distance upon the surface of the 
ice. It is usual to sleep here before 
visiting the Jardin (5. below) or 
crossing the Col du Geant, while the 
Hotel is the natural headquarters of 
the mountaineer bent on exploring 
the peaks and passes round the basin 
of the Mer de Glace (Rjtes. C and D). 

The traveller who takes an interest 
in the history of the theories as to 
glaciers will recollect that he here 
stands upon classic ground, and that 
much of our present .knowledge of 
the laws and causes of glacier motion is 
due to the observations made on the 
Mer de Glace by our eminent country- 
men Principal Forbes, and Professor 
Tyndall. 

The favourite way- back to Cha- 
monix is to cross the Mer de Glace, 
and then go by the Mauvais Pas to 
the Chapeau (ij hr. ) (next Excur- 
sion). But those who for any reason 
do not select this route are strongly 
recommended, before returning to 
Chamonix, to. descend on to the ice, 
so as to obtain a nearer view of the 
glacier and its crevasses. Guides for 
this purpose can generally be found 
at the Hotel, and, unless accustomed 
to glacier-walking, the traveller will 
do well to secure one. Close to the 
path which descends to the glacier 
lies a large flat rock, between the 
moraine and the mountain-side, on 
which the names of Windham and 
Pococke have been cut in memory of 
their famous visit in 1 741, noticed in 
the historical sketch given above. 

3. The Chapeau, and the Mauvais 



342 PENNINE ALPS. § 16. MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



Pas. — The steepness of the rocks on 
the W. or Montenvers side of the 
ice cascade of the Gl. des Bois makes 
it impossible to approach very near it 
on that side. The opposite bank of 
the glacier, although steep, is tra- 
versed by a path which leads round 
the base of the Aiguille a Bochard, 
and it is thus easy to see close at 
hand the towers and pinnacles of ice 
formed by the action of the sun, 
where the glacier is riven into deep 
and frequent crevasses. To complete 
the impression of a glacier gained by 
a visit to the Mer de Glace, it is 
necessary to see near at hand its 
utterly different aspect in the wild 
confusion of the icefall. To reach 
the Chapeau from Chamonix it is 
necessary to follow the high road 
towards Argentiere for 3 m. , as far as 
the hamlet of Les Tines, from which 
the foot path (mules go on to 
Lavancher, and mount thence) turns 
up to the r. , and approaches the r. 
bank of the glacier. The two paths 
join above, but the mules must be 
left before a short and steep ascent, 
leading in about hr. more to a 
cavern or recess in the face of the 
rocks, perhaps a finer view than the 
Chapeau. The Chapeau (2 hrs. from 
Chamonix) is, properly speaking, the 
name of a grassy knoll above the 
cavern. About 100 yards further is 
the usual Chalet Restaurant, and 
Bazar. The Chapeau (1,609 m «> 
5,279 ft.) is considerably lower than 
the Montenvers, and the view of the 
Mer de Glace is not nearly so com- 
plete, though the Aiguilles des 
Charmoz, de Blaitiere, du Plan, and 
du Midi, seen on the opposite side of 
the glacier, and backed by the still 
mightier central mass of Mont Blanc, 
form the materials of a grand picture. 
The special object of attraction is, 
however, the icefall of the glacier, 
which lies immediately below the 
spectator. The effect of the fantastic 
forms assumed by the ice is often 
increased in a startling manner by 
the fall of some huge mass, weighing 
many tons. The path from the 



Chapeau round the base of the 
Aiguille a Bochard passes by a rough 
staircase along a face of rock, which 
formerly deserved the name ' Mauvais 
Pas.' But it has been so much im- 
proved, and made so secure by an 
iron balustrade, that travellers pass 
without difficulty. About I hr. above 
the Chapeau the traveller reaches the 
point from which he may cross the 
Mer de Glace in J-f hr. to the Mont- 
envers. (It is a better arrangement 
to visit the Montenvers first, and 
then cross to the Chapeau, so as to 
descend, instead of ascending, the 
steep path on the E. bank of the 
glacier. ) As the Mauvais Pas is not 
practicable for cattle it is necessary 
to drive across the ice the cows that 
are sent each summer to feed on the 
Alpine pastures at the base of the 
Aiguille du Dru. This is a curious 
operation, and well worth seeing. A 
large number of men, boys, and girls 
are employed, carrying axes to level 
the ice, planks to bridge over cre- 
vasses, and ropes to keep the cattle 
from slipping into them, or to rescue 
them if they do fall in. 

4. The Col and Aiguille des Grands 
Montets. — A more serious under- 
taking than the excursion to the 
Chapeau and Mauvais Pas is the 
passage of this Col, combined with 
the ascent of the peak just N. of it. 
This walk should not be undertaken 
by ordinary travellers without a guide. 
The pass leads from the Mer de 
Glace to the Argentiere glacier, and 
lies N. of the great N. spur of the 
Aiguille Verte, and S. of the Aiguille 
des Grands Montets. There are few 
passes of the same ease and shortness 
which can rival this for mountain 
scenery, and, whichever way it is 
taken, the views are as fine as they 
can possibly be. (It is, perhaps, 
more convenient to cross it from W. 
to E., as in that way, if the Monten- 
vers be left at 5 a.m., the summit of 
the pass may be reached before the 
san has risen above the ridge to be 
crossed, while the return from Lognan 
in the afternoon through the woods 



ROUTE A. EXCURSIONS FROM CHAMONIX 343 



is a delightful ending to an expedition 
which is one series of beautiful pictures. ) 
Starting from the Montenvers, the Mer 
de Glace is crossed to its r. bank by 
the ordinary route to the Chapeau, 
and a small path at once leads up the 
hill-side past the foot of the Nant Blanc 
glacier. A short climb up an easy 
rock wall then leads to the Grands 
Montets glacier (wrongly called Pen- 
dant glacier on Mieulet's map), the 
top of the pass (3,241 m., 10,634 ft.) 
being gained in about 4 hrs. from the 
Montenvers. The views from the 
pass are all magnificent, and it is 
hard to say whether Mont Blanc and 
the Chamonix Aiguilles on the W., 
the Dru and the Verte immediately 
on the S., or the peaks surrounding 
the Argentiere glacier on the E. 
form the most attractive picture. A 
scramble of \ hr. up an easy rock 
ridge on the N. to the summit of j 
the Aiguille des Grands Montets 
(3,300 m., 10,827 ft.) is strongly re- 
commended by Mr. Adams- Reilly, 
whose opinion deserves the utmost 
weight. A descent of \\ hr. down 
the upper or lower slopes on the 1. 
side of the Argentiere glacier leads to 
the little Lognan inn, on the L 
bank of that glacier. Hence the 
traveller may go direct down to 
Argentiere ( 1 hr. ), or take a more 
agreeable path through the woods to 
the Pendant huts, whence the main 
valley may be reached, or the Cha- 
peau, if it is desired to return to the 
Montenvers. 

5. The Jardin. — This expedition 
is less serious than that last described, 
and is quite practicable (if starting 
from the Montenvers) for ladies who 
are good walkers, as in fine weather 
it is free from the slightest risk, 
though a guide is indispensable to 
those not already well acquainted 
with the glaciers or unused to glacier- 
walking in general. It is strongly 
recommended as one of the most in- 
teresting of the moderately easy glacier 
excursions to be made in this neigh- 
bourhood. An active pedestrian may 
make the whole expedition from 



Chamonix and back in 9 or 10 hrs., 
without reckoning halts. But, as the 
distance is considerable, and the 
objects of interest very numerous, it 
is a good plan, even for those who do 
not fear fatigue, to sleep at the 
Montenvers Hotel, thus leaving 
plenty of time to make the expedition 
leisurely, and to explore some of the 
upper recesses of the Mer de Glace. 

It has been already said that the E. - 
most of the three glacier streams which 
form the Mer de Glace is the Talefre 
glacier, originating in a great reser- 
voir of neve surrounded by the 
Aiguilles Verte, de Triolet, and de 
Talefre. In the midst of this neve 
basin rises a mass of rock, clear of 
snow in fine weather, which is nearly 
a mile in length by 300 or 400 yards 
in breadth, and whereon grow many 
species of flowering plants. This 
spot received, in the local patois, the 
name of Courtil, which has been 
supplanted by the French equivalent, 
Jardin. Those familiar with the 
higher regions of the Alps know that 
there is nothing unusual in the 
existence of an island of rock in the 
midst of fields of neve, nor in the 
presence of Alpine flowers on such 
islands, even above the height of 
10,000 ft. ; but, apart from any 
fancied interest attaching to a garden 
in the midst of eternal snows, the 
position of the Jardin fully justifies 
the reputation it has acquired as one 
of the most interesting spots within 
reach of Chamonix. 

From the Montenvers the path is 
carried above the 1. bank of the 
Mer de Glace, and the first 'diffi- 
culty ' (one only to the veriest be- 
ginners in mountain -walking) is at a 
place called 6 Les Ponts,' where steps 
have been cut in the face of some 
steep rocks to make the way easier. 
About J hr. from the Hotel the 
traveller descends by the moraine 
on to the glacier itself, and, keeping 
at first near its edge, reaches a point 
nearly opposite Trelaporte^ before 
crossing the ice diagonally towards 
the slopes of the Aiguille du Moine. 



344 PENNINE ALPS. § 16. MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



The * Grand Moulin,' a curious 
glacier phenomenon, well worth a 
close inspection, is soon passed, 
and, continuing across two medial 
moraines, the junction of the 
Leschaux and Geant glaciers is 
attained. Pausing here the traveller 
finds, on turning round, that he has 
reached a point opposite the icefall 
of the Geant glacier, descending from 
the great central valley of the Mont 
Blanc range. The highest peak of 
that mountain, and the adjoining 
mass of the Mont Blanc du Tacul, 
are often in view during the remainder 
of the excursion. Advancing along 
the Leschaux glacier, it is seen that 
this glacier, originating at the N. 
base of the Grandes Jorasses and its 
neighbours, is greatly augmented 
by the Talefre glacier, issuing from 
a narrow opening on the E. , and 
forming a magnificent ice cataract 
before reaching the level of the 
Leschaux glacier. To gain the 
upper level of the Talefre glacier, 
which is the object of this excursion, 
there are two routes. The old route 
mounted the rocks ('Les Egralets') 
of the Couvercle on the N. side of the 
Talefre glacier, at the base of the 
Aiguille du Moine, and then followed 
an easy path along the base of that 
peak till the W. arm of the Talefre 
glacier was crossed, opposite the 
Jardin, some way above the icefall. 
Though iron stanchions have been 
fixed on the steepest of the rocks 
ascended by this route, it is not much 
used. The usual route has been 
adopted because the great shrinkage 
of the glacier has made the Couvercle 
more difficult of access than formerly. 
This mounts along the moraine on 
the opposite (or 1.) side of the 
Talefre icefall. At a spot called the 
* Pierre a Beranger' there is a recently 
rebuilt shelter hut. (These two 
routes can be easily combined, but 
the ascent by the Couvercle rocks is 
to be preferred to the descent. ) 

The ideas excited by the name 
Jardin may at first cause some dis- 
appointment. It is in fact a patch of 



steep rocks, in great part bare, though 
here and there Alpine flowers bloom 
luxuriantly during the short summer, 
often not more than six weeks, when 
the surface is clear of snow ; the sum- 
mit is 2,997 m. (9,833 ft.) high. 
What is really impressive here is the 
position of this rock in the midst of a 
world that has so little in common 
with ordinary experience. The 
mountaineer who is used to roam in 
the upper regions of the Alps may 
often find himself in some similar 
solitude, entirely cut off from the 
lower inhabited world, and in a spot 
where nothing but ice, snow, and 
rocks meet the eye ; but rarely can he 
see these strange regions on so great 
a scale, and so completely isolated, 
as here. The distance in a direct 
line to the summit of Mont Blanc is 
about 9 m., and throughout that dis- 
tance, and on either side, there is no 
spot that exhibits traces of life, 
animal or vegetable. The tokens of 
destruction, the fall of rocks, or of 
blocks of ice, or the gentler murmur 
of the rivulets that flow from the 
melting snow, and by their unceasing 
energy complete the process of decay, 
are the only witnesses to living force 
in this wilderness. 

The view is justly celebrated as an 
almost unrivalled panorama of snowy 
peaks. Immediately surrounding the 
Jardin rise the Aiguille du Moine, 
the Aiguille Verte, the Droit es, the 
Courtes, the Aiguilles de Triolet and 
de Talefre, which form an amphi- 
theatre of the greatest beauty. Look- 
ing W. the whole stretch of the 
Geant glacier, with its superb icefall, 
flanked on the N. by the Chamonix 
Aiguilles, and on the S. by the 
Grandes Jorasses, the Mont Mallet, 
and the Aiguille du Geant, while the 
white dome of Mont Blanc itself fills 
up the distance, is as much to be 
admired as the wonderful amphi- 
theatre close at hand. The excursion 
to the Jardin is neither long nor 
difficult, and probably there is no 
other spot so easy of access, anywhere 
else in the Alps, which affords sucji a 



ROUTE A. EXCURSIONS FROM CHAMONIX 



345 



glorious panorama of mountains. The 
ridge N.E. of the Jardin, extending 
from the Aiguille Verte to the Aiguille 
de Triolet, one of the massive beams 
in the architecture of the Mont Blanc 
range, is a favourite resort of crystal- 
hunters. 

6. 7he Aiguille des Petit s Char- 
moz. — This peak is also known as the 
Aiguille de PM, on account of 
its resemblance to the letter M. 
Saussure, Bourrit, and many subse- 
quent writers have referred to it as 
the Grepon, a name now given to a 
higher peak on the S. (described in 
Rte. C.) It lies just N. of the 
Aiguille des Grands Charmoz, and 
the gap between its two highest points 
is called the Col de la Buche (2,791 
m -> 9j t 57 ft-) This pass may be 
reached from the Montenvers on the 
E. in 2 or 3 hrs. , but stones often fall 
in the couloir leading up to it, so that 
if there are two parties they should 
keep close together. The pass can 
also be reached from the W. over the 
tail of the Nantillons glacier, and this 
is the natural route if the start be 
made from Chamonix. Either sum- 
mit affords good rock -scrambling, and 
may be gained in about -J hr. from 
the Col. The highest point (2,868 
m., 9,410 ft.) is that to the S. of the 
pass, the other is 2,836 m. (9,305 ft.) 
Those unused to climbing should not 
fail to take a guide with them. 

7. Plan de V Aiguille. — Five sum- 
mits, all visible from Chamonix, over- 
look the middle portion of the main 
valley, and separate it from the nearly 
parallel snow valley of the Geant 
glacier. These are par excellence 
4 the Chamonix Aiguilles ' (see Rte. 
C), and, reckoning from E. to W., are 
as follows : Aigtiille des Grands 
Charmoz (3,442 m., 11,293 ft*)j 
Aiguille de Grepon (3,489 m., 1 1,447 
ft.), Aiguille de Blaitiere (3,520 m. , 
11,549 ft.), Aiguille du Plan (3,673 
m., 12,051 ft.), and Aiguille du 
Midi (3,843 m., 12,609 ft-) Three 
glaciers descend on the N. side of this 
range — those of Nantillons, Blaitiere, 
and Pelerins. An interesting excur- 



sion may be made along the base of 
these Aiguilles, either traversing the 
three glaciers or passing beneath 
them, to the point of view called Plan 
de 1' Aiguille (2, 282 m. , 7,487 ft. ) This 
is a rocky eminence (with an Inn) rising 
between the Blaitiere and the Pelerins 
glaciers. A guide is desirable for 
this excursion, which may very con- 
veniently be made from the Mont- 
envers Hotel in about 3 hrs. It is 
occasionally taken as a second day's 
walk by those who have slept at the 
Hotel after visiting the Jardin. The 
foot of the first giacier, that of Nan- 
tillons, is about half-way. It is, per- 
haps, pleasanter to traverse the 
glaciers themselves than to pass below 
them, though the moraines are rather 
troublesome to surmount in succes- 
sion. A mule path leads from the 
Plan direct to Chamonix in \\ hr. 
It is possible to continue W. to the 
Pierre Pointue inn (Rte. B. 1) — 1 hr. 
— or even to the Pierre a l'Echelle, on 
the way to the Grands Mulets (Rte. B), 
both ways of lengthening a pleasant 
excursion on a fine day. From behind 
the Pierre Pointue inn a walk of 
20 min. up a mule path suffices to gain 
the summit of a rocky knoll, the 
Aiguille de la Tour (2,306 m. , 7,566 
ft. ), whence the view over the neigh- 
bouring glaciers is very fine indeed. 

8. The Glacier des Bossofis, and 
the Cascade du Dard. — The Glacier 
des Bossons, which descends direct, in 
one stream, without medial moraines, 
from the upper part of Mont Blanc 
itself to the valley of Chamonix, does 
not drain nearly so extensive an area 
as the Mer de Glace, neither does it 
exhibit so fully the various aspects of 
glacier existence. It is necessarily 
traversed by those who go from 
Chamonix to the Grands Mulets 
(Rte. B), but its lower extremity, 
where it reaches the level of the 
valley, is often made the object of a 
short excursion from the village, and, 
taken together with the Cascade du 
Dard, suffices for a pleasant after- 
noon's stroll. (Both may, by a slight 
detour, be taken by a pedestrian on 



346 PENNINE ALPS. § 16. MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



his way from the W. end of the valley 
to the village. ) The Bossons glacier 
reaches the valley about 2 m. below 
Chamonix, and its right bank may be 
gained by road (and foot path), or by a 
path along the S. bank of the Arve, in 
I -J hr. The ice is broken up into 
pinnacles of great beauty, often more 
than 150 ft. in height. They are 
best seen on the W. side of the 
glacier, and instead of returning by 
the same way it is easy to cross the 
glacier in a place where it is free 
from crevasses to the E. bank, where 
there is a small inn, as there is on 
the other bank. 

It is a walk of but \ hr. from the 
E. bank of the glacier to the hamlet 
of Les Pelerins, a house in which 
was the birthplace (1762) of Jacques 
Balmat, the discoverer of the right 
way up Mont Blanc, and now has a 
tablet, with an inscription, erected 
by the French Alpine Club. A little 
way below this hamlet was the 
Cascade des Pelerins, formerly much 
visited as one of the most beautiful 
and graceful of waterfalls. The 
torrent, descending in a single bound, 
struck a projecting mass of rock and 
sprang out anew with fresh vigour, in 
the fashion which is imitated on a 
petty scale by some artificial fountains. 
The fall of some mass from above 
broke the projecting rock and spoiled 
the waterfall. Within a few hundred 
yards, and nearer Chamonix, is the 
Cascade dti Dard, very picturesque, 
and better worth seeing than the 
Pelerins in its present condition. 

We now notice the excursions most 
frequently made on the N. side of 
the Chamonix valley, opposite Mont 
Blanc. (For the Buet, see § 17. 
Rte. E.) 

9. The Brevent.— The S.W. end 

of the range commonly called the 
Aiguilles Rouges is formed by the 
ridge of the Brevent. This summit, 
rising just opposite the Glacier des 
Bossons, offers the very finest view 
of the N. side of Mont Blanc, and in 
favourable weather is one of the most 



interesting excursions, some think 
the most interesting, to be made 
from Chamonix. To those not well 
used to mountain-walking it is a 
somewhat laborious day's work, which 
may, however, be lessened by taking 
a mule even to the summit, if wished. 
Of late years a new mule path has 
been made, passing by Plan Lachat 
and Plan Bel Achat, 2,154 m. , 
7,067 ft. (2 J hrs.), on the S.W. 
side of the summit. At Bel Achat 
there is a small inn, whence a mule 
path leads to the summit in about 
1 hr. 

The more direct and usual route 
for pedestrians, however, ascends the 
hill-side immediately above Chamonix 
and passes by Planpraz (3 hrs.), 
mules going as far as the foot of the 
chimney described below. Persons 
used to finding their own way may 
go without a guide. Although 
rounded at the top, and sloping 
gently to the N. and N.W., the side 
of the Brevent facing Chamonix is 
an almost completely vertical preci- 
pice, and the most direct way of 
reaching the summit is by the ridge 
on the E. This route — part of the 
main way from Chamonix to Sixt by 
the Col d'Anterne (§ 17. Rte. D)— 
mounts the steep S.E. slopes of the 
mountain by zigzags, in part through 
forest, at intervals over open spaces 
that have been cleared by avalanches 
and landslips. After reaching the 
upper limit of trees, the mule path 
leads (2 hrs.) to a gently sloping green 
pasture, called Planpraz (2,064 m -> 
6,772 ft.), where there is a new 
mountain inn. (For the track hence 
over the Col du Brevent see § 17. 
Rte. D.) This spot commands a 
magnificent view, superior to that 
from the Flegere and not much 
inferior to that gained from the 
summit, so that it is well worth a 
visit by those who are unable to go 
further. (There is an up and down 
mule path leading N.E. to the 
Flegere inn in about 2 hrs.) From 
Planpraz the mule track winds round 
a ridge projecting to the E., then 



ROUTE A. EXCURSIONS FROM CHAMONIX 



bends W. , and enters a stony hollow 
which leads to the foot of a steep 
chimney in a wall of rock about 50 ft. 
high. Here the mule path ceases. 
The chimney (in which iron stanchions 
are now fixed) is surmounted by a 
short scramble (there is a roundabout 
way, avoiding this climb and leading 
to the upper end of the chimney, 
which takes \ hr. longer). Thence 
a gentle ascent of 10 min. leads 
(I hr. from Planpraz) to the summit 
of the Brevent (2,525 m., 8,284 ft.), 
on which there is now a little Inn. 

Amongst the numerous objects that 
attract attention the peak of Mont 
Blanc is pre-eminent. Those who 
have read with eager interest narra- 
tives of the ascent from Chamonix 
•are anxious to follow, as they can 
here do, the whole course of the 
ordinary route from the Pierre a 
FEchelle to the summit, whether by 
the Corridor or by the Eosses du 
Dromadaire, as well as the St. 
Gervais route from the Aiguille du 
Gouter onwards. After satiating the 
eye with the contemplation of the 
snowy range opposite, the traveller 
should not omit to examine the re- 
mainder of the panorama. The 
most prominent object on the N. is 
the Buet, a flattened, glacier-clad 
pyramid ; more to the 1. , looking 
across the deep gorge of the Diosaz, 
is the Col d'Anterne, leading to Sixt, 
followed by theTete a l'Ane(2,793 m. , 
9,164 ft.) and the shattered range of 
the Rochers des Fiz (2,769 m., 
9,085 ft.), the whole mass, as it is 
in truth, a gigantic ruin on which the 
short period of human history has 
worked notable change in under- 
mining many of its highest towers 
and battlements. To the S.W., 
above the Beaufort mountains, a 
snowy peak is seen in the far dis- 
tance, and, comparatively near at 
hand, the Mont Joly (§ 11. Rte. H), a 
rival of the Brevent, rises beyond the 
Col de Voza. 

A pedestrian reaching Chamonix 
from Sixt will do well to pass the Col 
d'Anterne (§17. Rte. D), then mount 



to the top of the Brevent, and de- 
scend thence by Planpraz to Chamo- 
nix, a walk of some 9 hours. It is 
best to descend to Chamonix, as the 
view of Mont Blanc is thus before 
the traveller's eyes throughout the de- 
scent, while the heat of the sun, often 
inconvenient when ascending from 
Chamonix, is entirely avoided. If 
favoured by a fine afternoon the 
traveller may enjoy the marvellous 
evening view of Mont Blanc lit up 
by the sun in the western sky ; and 
if he should have the further good 
fortune to conclude the descent by 
moonlight, when the valley of 
Chamonix is seen to its fullest per- 
fection, he will have enjoyed a day 
which cannot be easily surpassed for 
grandeur and variety. (For the 
various passes over the ridge between 
the Brevent and the Belvedere, see 
§ 17. Rte. E.) 

10. The Flegere.. — This is a very 
easy excursion, involving an ascent of 
i\ hrs. only by a good mule path. 
A guide is not at all necessary. From 
Chamonix the high road towards 
Argentiere is followed for 25 min. to 
the hamlet of Les Praz. Here, just 
opposite the end of the Glacier des 
Bois, the Arve is crossed by a wooden 
bridge. The ascent lies at first up a 
stony zigzag path, and then amidst 
pine trees, to an open pasture, on 
which are the Praz huts (if-if hr. 
from Chamonix), where is a house 
with refreshments. Thence f hr.'s 
walk, for the most part through a 
forest composed of pine and larch, 
suffices to reach the Flegere inn 
(1,806 m., 5,925 ft., according to 
Mieulet's map, a height which is esti- 
mated by MM. Vallot to be about 
70 m. — 230 ft. — too low). This inn 
has some beds, and is a convenient 
starting point for the exploration of 
the chain on the N. , commonly called 
the Aiguilles Rouges. 

The Flegere commands a general 
view of the Mont Blanc range, and of 
the entire valley of Chamonix, from 
the Col de Balme to the Col de 
Voza. As it is exactly opposite the 



348 PENNINE ALPS. § 16. MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



Mer de Glace, the cluster of pin- 
nacles, the highest summit of which 
is the Aiguille Verte, is seen to 
greater perfection than from any 
other easily accessible spot near Cha- 
monix. There is a mule path 
(branching off \ hr. below the inn) 
which leads in a S.W. direction, by 
many ups and downs, to the Planpraz 
inn, on the way up the Brevent (2 
hrs. ), so that the return to Chamonix 
may be made by that way, with or 
without the further climb to the 
top of the Brevent. 

11. The Belvedere. — This peak is 
the highest in the range between the 
Arve and Diosaz glens. The name 
of Aiguilles Rouges is often given to 
this range, but, according to MM. 
Yailot, to whom we owe the first 
careful account of this chain (see 
' Annuaire du Club Alpin Francais,' 
vol. xix. 1892), that name properly 
belongs only to the serrated ridges 
N.E. of the Belvedere. Thus the 
Belvedere is not the highest summit 
of the Aiguilles Rouges, while the 
name Aiguille de la Gliere, given to 
it on certain maps, really belongs to 
a peak a good bit to the S.W. (See 
MM. Vallot's map, and the sketch of 
the real topography of this range given 
in § 17. Rte. E. 3. as the traverse 
of the peak from Sixt to Chamonix is 
one of the finest routes between those 
places.) The Belvedere (2,966 m., 
9,731 ft.) commands a view which is 
•rated by good judges as little, if at 
all, inferior to that gained from the 
Buet. It may be climbed from the 
Flegere inn in 4 hrs. past the refresh- 
ment booth of La Floriaz, the Lac 
Blanc, the upper edge of the glacier 
of that name, and the S. rock ridge. 

There are a number of other excur- 
sions which may be made from 
Chamonix, but are more conveniently 
described in other routes. The Col 
de Voza, part of the * Tour du Mont 
Blanc' (Rte. E), and the Col de 
Balme (Rte. H), are both well worth a 
visit even by those who may have no 
occasion to traverse them. The ex- 
cursion to the Grands Mulets is no- 



ticed in Rte. B. in connection with 
the ascent of Mont Blanc, and the 
ascent of the Buet in § 17. Rte. E, as 
one of the ways from Sixt to Chamo- 
nix. The Argentiere glacier and its 
neighbourhood are described in 
Rte. L of this Section, and the Tour 
glacier in Rte. M. 



Route B. 

THE ASCENT OF MONT BLANC. 

The ascent of the highest mountain 
in the Alps long passed for an exploit 
of the first order, deserving of special 
record, and admitting, on the part of 
those who achieved it, of a style of 
high-flown description which gave a 
formidable idea of the difficulty of 
the performance. Such descriptions 
represented, for the most part in 
perfect good faith, the impression 
made upon the minds of travellers by 
phenomena new and imposing from 
the grand scale on which they 
operate, very much heightened by 
ignorance of their laws, which left the 
imagination subject to an ill-defined 
sense of wonder and terror. The 
same descriptions might, however, 
have served for the ascent of many 
other of the glacier-clad peaks of the 
Alps, and according as experience 
has made men familiar with the 
means and precautions required, and 
more accurate knowledge has enabled 
them to understand the obstacles to 
be overcome, and the dangers to be 
avoided, it is found that the ascent 
of Mont Blanc by the ordinary route 
is an expedition involving no peculiar 
difficulties, nor, when made in favour- 
able weather, any appreciable risk. 
The shrewdness of the natives of the 
valley of Chamonix has led them to 
invest the ascent with as much im- 
portance as they can coitrive to give 
it, and while they were able to obtain 
for a number of men ten times the 



ROUTE B. THE ASCENT OF MONT BLANC 



349 



remuneration which would be con- 
sidered sufficient for the same amount 
of labour and exposure at other 
seasons of the year, they were not 
likely to diminish the allowance of 
powder that is burned to celebrate 
each successful ascent that is made 
from their valley with Chamonix 
guides. Of late years the number of 
ascents has very largely increased, 
and the evil now to be guarded 
against is not so much undue appre- 
ciation of the difficulties as an under- 
estimate, leading men to neglect 
needful precautions, and to dispense 
with the requisite amount of previous 
training. To guard against imme- 
diate danger, the guides are usually 
quite worthy of reliance, and if the 
object be simply to reach the summit, 
and come down again without bodily 
hurt, most Englishmen of active 
habits, who agree to pay the proper 
number of francs to the guides and 
innkeepers at Chamonix, may count 
on achieving their object, provided 
the weather be favourable, or they 
have the patience to wait until it 
becomes so. But men who desire 
not merely to accomplish what is 
considered by some as a feat, but to 
enjoy, in the true sense of the word, 
an expedition which brings them face 
to face with so many phases of the 
beautiful and sublime in Nature, 
must recollect that for that object some 
general and some special preparation 
is necessary. The amount of training 
of the muscles which will support 
without undue fatigue almost con- 
tinued physical exertion, with but 
short intervals of rest, and little or 
no sleep, during 24 hrs. or more, 
is not generally obtained without 
several days or weeks of previous 
practice. This might be acquired on 
a Scotch moor as well as on the 
Alps, but it is only here that a man 
can gain that familiarity with the ice 
world which is essential to an in- 
telligent enjoyment of its wonders 
and its beauties. The keenest ob- 
server, plunging suddenly into scenes 
where everything is new and unlike 



previous experience, carries away but 
a confused and overcrowded series of 
impressions, instead of those indelible 
pictures that he might otherwise 
retain. At the least a traveller 
should begin by devoting several 
days to the exploration of the higher 
glaciers, however thoroughly trained 
he may otherwise be. It should not 
be forgotten that some persons are 
liable to suffer severely from the 
combined effects of rarefied air and 
unusual exertion at a great height. 
Apart from the difference of constitu- 
tion in individuals, which can be 
ascertained only by trial, there is no 
doubt that habit has a great influence 
I in making men insensible to this 
1 distressing affection. Those who 
have accustomed themselves to 
I breathe the air at heights of 11,000 
j or 12,000 ft. rarely, if ever, feel in- 
! convenience when they mount some 
! 3,000 or 4,000 ft. above that limit, 
unless for reasons having nothing to 
j do with the rarefaction of the air. 

The form of the central portion of 
I the Mont Blanc range has been 
I partly indicated in the Introduction 
j to this Chapter, and may be better 
understood by referring to a tolerable 
model than by verbal description. 
I The highest summit, or Calotte, 
4,810 m. (15,782 ft. ) above the sea- 
level, lies in the range of peaks 
which overhang the Allee Blanche. 
It has been compared to a dome of 
snow irregularly cut away on the N. 
and S. sides, standing on a vast 
I basement propped up by buttresses 
j of rock, of which the most prominent 
are the Mont Brouillard and the 
Aiguilles Blanche and Noire de Pe- 
teret. If the range of Aiguilles that 
enclose the valley of Chamonix were 
continuous from the Aiguille du Midi 
to the Aiguille du Gouter, the sum- 
mit of Mont Blanc would be com- 
pletely shut out from that side, but 
between those two summits there is 
a wide opening through which two 
great glaciers descend into the valley 
of Chamonix. This opening corre- 
sponds to the main peculiarity in the 



350 PENNINE ALPS. § 16. MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



architecture of the mountain. From 
the central mass a mighty ridge 
stretches to the N.W., and by the 
comparative evenness of its outline 
presents a remarkable contrast to the 
jagged and bristling forms of the 
surrounding ranges. In this great 
ridge the first rocky and snowy pro- 
minences have the descriptive name 
of Bosses du Dromadaire (4,556 m., 
14,948 ft., and 4,525 m., 14,846 ft.) 
The next noticeable feature is the 
huge rounded mass of the Dd?7ie du 
Gouter (4,331 m., 14,210 ft), while 
at its N. end, formed by the Aiguille 
du Gotiter (3,843 m., 12,609 ft.), the 
ridge is cut away abruptly on three 
sides by steep slopes, after the 
fashion of the gable ends of old 
French roofs. Corresponding in 
some measure to this ridge, another, 
bolder in form, diverges from the 
central mass towards the N.N.E. 
Its two chief summits are the Motit 
Maudit (4,471 Hi., 14,669 ft.) and 
the Mont Blanc dti Tacul (4,249 m., 
13,941 ft.) Though separated from 
the last-named peak by a gap, the 
A iguille du Midi ( 3 , 843 m. , 1 2 , 609 ft. ) 
seems to be the natural termination 
of this ridge, and to correspond in 
position, though not in form, to the 
Aiguille du Gouter. 

In the angle between these con- 
verging ridges is the Grand Plateau, 
(3,932 m., 12,901 ft.), a level space 
probably filled to an enormous depth 
with accumulated neve. Below this 
the great snow valley, lying within 
the angle, is divided longitudinally 
by a much smaller subordinate ridge, 
in great part covered with neve and 
glacier, but projecting through this 
envelope in the sharp peaks of the 
Grands Mulets (3,057 m., 10,030 ft.) 
and terminating in the Montagne de 
la Cdte, which divides the Glacier des 
Bossons from the Glacier de Tacon- 
naz. The latter originates in the neve 
that accumulates on the N. slopes of 
the Dome du Gouter, and in the fold 
or ledge between it and the ridge of 
the Grands Mulets, while the Bossons 
gl. drains the much wider snow 



valley between the latter ridge and 
that of the Aiguille du Midi. 

Apart from the ways up Mont 
Blanc from the Courmayeur side (to 
be described below, under 3) there 
are but two main routes to the summit 
of Mont Blanc. The Chamonix route 
(that usually taken) lies along the E. 
base of the ridge extending from the 
top to the Aiguille du Gouter, by the 
ledge formed between it and the 
minor ridge of the Grands Mulets ; 
by this route the N.N.E. ridge of 
Mont Blanc was gained at some point 
between the Mont Maudit and the 
summit, and then followed to the top 
of the mountain, but, as will be seen 
presently, it is now more usual to 
mount from the Grand Plateau to the 
N.W. ridge, thus joining the second 
main route. This second route, 
known from its starting point as the 
St. Gervais route, lies along the crest 
of the ridge extending from the sum- 
mit to the Aiguille du Gouter. These 
two routes thus lead respectively up 
the final N.N.E. and N.W. ridges of 
the mountain. 

Some sketch of the early history of 
Mont Blanc must be given here, but 
the reader is referred for many addi- 
tional most interesting details to 
Monsieur C. Durier's classical work 
' Le Mont-Blanc, 5 first published in 
1877, and now in its fourth edition 

(1897). 

Probably mentioned, under the name 
of ' rupes alba, 5 in the earliest extant 
document referring to Chamonix 
(1091 : see Rte. A), it certainly 
appears under that of 6 Montagne 
Maudite 5 on Mercator 5 s Atlas (1594), 
and this name came to be commonly 
used, especially at Geneva, whence 
this unknown and much dreaded 
group could be seen. But with the 
arrival of the first tourists in the 
valley of Chamonix (1741-2) we find 
that the mountain is now called 
1 Mont Blanc, 5 this being probably 
the vague general name applied at 
Chamonix to the great snowy mass 
which dominates the valley. It was 
for many years later regarded with 



ROUTE B. THE ASCENT OF MONT BLANC 



35i 



respectful awe, and deemed quite in- 
accessible. The earliest step towards 
its conquest was made by Saussure, 
who after his first visits to Chamonix 
in 1760 and 1761 offered a liberal 
reward to the person who should 
first find the way to the summit. 

But the first attempt, by Pierre 
Simond (one of Saussure's guides), by 
the way of the Geant gl. , and later 
by that of Bossons, did not lead to 
anything. It was not till July, 1775, 
that the first serious attempt was 
made to scale the peak. Four Cha- 
monix men, Francois and Michel 
Paccard, Victor Tissai, and Couteran, 
ascended by the Montagne de la 
Cote, and probably attained the edge 
of the Grand Plateau. There they 
were overpowered ' by the reverbera- 
tion of the sun from the snow, and 
the stagnation of the air in the great 
snow valley. ' The next attempt, in 
1783, by J. M. Couttet, J. Carrier, 
and J. B. Lombard (all heard of later), 
was abandoned in the great snow 
valley, because one of the party was 
seized with an almost irresistible de- 
sire to sleep. Later in the same year 
Monsieur Bourrit (the most enter- 
prising, but most unlucky, of these 
early climbers), with Dr. Michel 
Paccard, the village doctor, had the 
honour of making the first attempt by 
a traveller, but was driven back by a 
storm from his bivouac on the summit 
of the Montagne de la Cote. 

In 1784 M. Bourrit learned that 
two hunters of La Gruaz (a hamlet at 
the entrance of the Miage glen, on 
the W. side of Mont Blanc), named 
Francois Cuidet and Gervais, claimed 
to have ascended the Aiguille du 
Gouter, and had found the snow- 
slopes ' so well aerated ' that there 
was no risk of the suffocation caused 
by ' the stagnation of the air in the 
great snow valley. ' He accordingly 
started with these two hunters, and 
also Couttet and Lombard, besides 
other guides and a dog, but having 
gained the foot of the Aiguille du 
Gouter was overcome by cold and 
fatigue. Cuidet and Couttet pushed 



on, reached the Aiguille, and crossed 
the Dome du Gouter, getting as far 
as the first rocks on the Bosses du 
Dromadaire, whence they were driven 
back by want of time and the rarefied 
air, though otherwise further progress 
would have been quite possible. 

In September, 1785, Saussure, 
with M. Bourrit and the latter 's son, 
made his first attempt, naturally 
selecting the way by the Aiguille du 
Gouter. The party spent the night 
in a hut which had been prepared at 
the foot of the Aiguille. On the 
next day they took the same route as 
that now followed, crossed the great 
couloir, and climbed some distance 
further up, but were compelled to 
return, after attaining a great height, 
by the quantity of fresh snow which 
lay on the edges of the rocks. 

A few days previously Couttet and 
Jacques Balmat had been beaten 
back by a hail storm, when already on 
the Aiguille. Finally, on June 30, 
1786, two of Saussure's guides, 
Couttet and Pierre Balmat, slept in the 
hut at the foot of the Aiguille du 
Gouter. On the following day they 
climbed the Aiguille, and reached the 
summit of the Dome du Gouter. 
Here, by previous arrangement, they 
met another party, which had 
bivouacked on the Montagne de la 
Cote. This party consisted of three men 
(two already mentioned), Tournier, 
Carrier, and Fr. Paccard, together 
with a young fellow of 24, named 
Jacques Balmat, who was destined to 
win the prize. Balmat had previously 
attempted the mountain from the 
Geant gl., and from the Miage side, 
while in 1785 (as we have seen above) 
he had tried the Gouter ridge. In 
1786 he had spent two nights out 
among the glaciers exploring, when, 
on his return to Chamonix, he found 
the three men just starting. He set 
out again with but little delay, and 
joined the others at their bivouac on 
the Montagne de la Cote. The 
two parties reached the first of the 
Bosses du Dromadaire, but the ridge 
was so narrow that it was judged 



352 PENNINE ALPS. § 16. MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



impracticable, and all returned to 
Chamonix, with a single exception. 
This was Jacques Balmat, who had 
been trying to get along the ridge 
astraddle, and on his descent found 
himself abandoned by his comrades. 
He managed to get down to the 
Grand Plateau, and late that after- 
noon (July i) climbed up the snow 
slope to the S.W. of the double line 
of rocks now known as the Rochers 
Rouges, and so attained the N.E. 
shoulder of the final peak. But 
mist came on, so that, though the 
game was really won, he had to 
redescend to the Grand Plateau, 
where he spent a terrible night, his 
fourth consecutive night out of a bed. 
A few weeks later the same year, 
August 8, 1786, at 6.30 P.M., Balmat 
actually reached the summit for the 
first time by the route he had dis- 
covered. He was accompanied by 
Dr. Michel Paccard, a native of 
Chamonix and the village doctor, 
who had already tried the mountain 
in 1783, and is possibly identical with 
one of the men who had made the 
attempt of 1775, as in 1786 he was 
29 years old. 

The success of the undertaking 
greatly interested Saussure, who came 
at once to Chamonix. But very bad 
weather prevented any further at- 
tempt that year. Saussure in the 
spring of 1787 made a journey to the 
coast of Provence for scientific pur- 
poses, but even from the harbour of 
Toulon saw what he believed to be 
Mont Blanc. Meanwhile prepara- 
tions for his ascent were in progress 
at Chamonix. On July 5 Balmat 
made his second ascent, accompanied 
by J. M. Cachat and Alexis Tournier. 
The third was achieved a month later 
by Saussure himself, who had with 
him Balmat and 18 other men. 
Starting on August I , the first night 
was spent at the top of the Montagne. 
de la Cote, and the second at a point 
a little below the Grand Plateau. On 
August 3 he at last reached the 
summit at II a.m., and remained 
there 4^ hrs., sleeping that night at 



the N. foot of the Grands Mulets 
ridge, and regaining Chamonix on the 
fourth day. On August 9 an English- 
man, Colonel Beaufoy, made a 
successful ascent, in which he was 
destined to be followed by many of 
his countrymen. 

For a long time no change was 
made in the route followed by Balmat 
and Saussure (now known as that by 
the 4 Ancien Passage'), except that it 
was found more convenient to pass the 
first night on the rocks of the Grands 
Mulets, rather than on the Montagne 
de la Cote, and to reach the 
bivouac by ascending the r. bank 
of the Bossons gl. to the Pierre a 
PEchelle, and then crossing that 
glacier. 

On August 20, 1820, a large party, 
including a Russian, Dr. Hamel, and 
two Englishmen, Messrs. Joseph Dorn- 
ford and Gilbert Henderson, with eight 
guides, was cut in two by an ava- 
lanche, while ascending the steep 
slope just S.W. of the Rochers 
Rouges, and three guides thus lost 
their lives in the well-known great 
crevasse at the foot of that slope. 
This accident, the first of many on 
the mountain, suggested the expe- 
diency of a change of route. Accord- 
ingly, in 1827, Mr. (later Sir) C. 
Fellows and Mr. W. Hawes, with J. 
M. Couttet and several other guides, 
struck out a new way to the N. E. of 
the Rochers Rouges by the ' Corridor ' 
and the ' Mur de la Cote,' and this 
was long followed, though now a days 
it has been pretty well given up in 
favour of that by the Bosses. 

On July 31, 1855, Mr. (now Sir) 
J. H. Ramsay discovered a new route 
to the summit, though he was unfor- 
tunately obliged to retreat after hav- 
ing gained the Mur de la Cote. He 
slept at the foot of the Aiguille du 
Midi, with six Courmayeur guides, 
and climbed up the slopes of the 
Mont Maudit, descending by the 
opening on its W. to the head of the 
Corridor. A week later another 
English party, without guides, only 
succeeded in attaining the summit of 



ROUTE B. THE ASCENT OF MONT BLANC 



353 



the Mont Blanc du Tacul, and this 
route was not completely made till it 
was taken on July 18, 1863, by MM. 
Maquelin and Briquet, of Geneva, 
with ten Courmayeur guides. 

The English guideless party just 
mentioned was more fortunate in an 
attempt on Mont Blanc from St. 
Gervais. Starting from a hut built 
higher up on the Aiguille du Goiiter 
than that of M. Guichardin 1854, they 
climbed the Aiguille and the Dome. 
Thence, sending back their porters to 
care for two of the party who could 
not complete the ascent, the others, 
consisting of the Revs. C. Hudson, 
Grenville, and Christopher Smyth, 
Messrs. E. S. Kennedy and C. 
Ainslie, descended to the Grand 
Plateau, and reached the summit by 
way of the Corridor, without guides, 
on August 14, 1855. This ascent 
helped somewhat to emancipate tra- 
vellers from the vexatious restrictions 
of the old Chamonix regulations, and 
the unreasonable expenses to winch 
they were there subjected, but it left 
the route to the summit by the N.W. 
ridge still incomplete. Several 
attempts to supply the portion still 
wanting, and one intended to discover 
a new way by the Col de Miage, were 
made in 1856 by a party consisting of 
the Revs. F. J. A. Hort, J. LI. 
Davies, and H. W. Watson, and Mr. 
F. Vaughan Hawkins, but were all 
defeated by bad weather. They are 
recounted by Mr. Vaughan Hawkins 
in the first series of ' Peaks, Passes, 
and Glaciers.' 

It was not till July 29, 1859, that 
the practicability of the Bosses ridge, 
connecting the summit with the Dome 
du Goiiter, was finally established by 
a party consisting of the Revs. C. 
Hudson and G. C. Hodgkinson, and 
Mr. G. C. Joad, led by Melchior An- 
deregg. From the Grand Plateau they 
mounted the Dome du Goiiter, and then 
followed the ridge on to the summit. 
(It may be noted that Mr. Hudson's 
party had been anticipated twenty 
years before by a Chamonix man, 
eighty-four years of age, Marie 
I. 



Couttet, surnamed Moutelet, who 
attained the summit alone, and was 
met descending by another party on 
the Mur de la Cote. ) The first com- 
plete ascent by the new route was 
effected on July 18, 1861, by Messrs. 
Leslie Stephen and F. F. Tuckett, with 
Melchior Anderegg, J. J. Bennen, and 
P. Perren, who mounted direct from 
St. Gervais, thus achieving the under- 
taking commenced as far back as 
1784. But the Bosses ridge was 
dreaded long after, so that it is said 
that it was never descended till July 5, 
1869, when this was done by Mr. 
Coolidge, under the guidance of 
Christian Aimer. Nowadays there is 
a hut at the commencement of the 
ridge, and it is the usual route from 
j Chamonix. 

Since 1861 many difficult routes 
have been forced up Mont Blanc 
from the Italian side, but it was 
not till 1890 that the true way up 
from Courmayeur was discovered. 
(For details, see 3. iv., below.) M. 
Kurz's Guide (in its French edition 
only) contains a pretty complete 
bibliography of works describing the 
ascent of Mont Blanc. One that has 
appeared since his book contains pro- 
bably the most complete account of 
personal experiences on many of the 
routes up the peak, and may there- 
fore be mentioned here — Dr. Paul 
Giissfeldt's 4 Der Mont Blanc ' (Ber- 
lin, 1894). For details as to all the 
eleven routes M. Kurz's work should 
be referred to. 

1. The Chamonix Route. — From 
the hamlet of Praz Conduits, nearly 
opposite the village of Chamonix, a 
good mule path (with sign posts) 
mounts rather steeply through a pine 
forest, and then over pastures to the 
Pierre Pointue inn^ 2,049 m -> 6,723 
ft. (2 J hrs. from Chamonix.) The 
track keeps at some distance from 
the Bossons glacier, which is separated 
from it by a deep ravine, often choked 
by the remains of the spring avalanches. 

[20 min. from the inn, and accessible 
by a mule path, there is a rocky knoll 
known as the Aiguille de la Tour 

A A 



354 PENNINE ALPS. § 16. MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



(2,306 m., 7,566 ft.) — not to be con- 
founded wiih the point opposite, 
called by that name on Mieulet's 
map — whence there is a very fine 
view over the neighbouring glaciers. J 
From the inn there is only a foot path, 
which becomes steep and rough on 
approaching the base of the Aiguille 
du Midi, and passes beneath over- 
hanging rocks, which sometimes dis- 
charge volleys of stones across the 
track. The Pierre a PEchelle (so 
called from the ladder formerly kept 
there) is passed before the r. bank of 
the Bos sons gl. is reached (f hr. 
from the inn). The upper part of 
this glacier is enclosed between 
lofty precipices, down which masses 
of ice are constantly hurled from the 
slopes of the Aiguille du Midi. On 
the opposite side rise the steep, dark 
rocks of the Grands Mulets, well seen 
in all views of this side of Mont 
Blanc, and even from the village of 
Chamonix. The Bossons gl. is 
generally easy to cross to its junction 
with the Taconnaz gl. , as there is 
now a sort of path made by the por- 
ters who carry up provisions to the 
Grands Mulets inn. Ladders are not 
placed there now unless absolutely 
indispensable. The only difficulties 
in this traverse are usually found 
on the farther side, where the ridge 
of the Grands Mulets is continued 
under the ice, which is therefore 
broken up into seracs, and intersected 
by great crevasses. Easy snow-fields 
then lead to the W. foot of the Grands 
Mulets rocks (3.057 m., 10,030 ft J, 
on which, just above the glacier, is 
the little mountain inn (3,020 m., 
9,909 ft.) where it is usual to pass 
the night before the ascent. It is 
2J hrs. or so from the Pierre Pointue, 
and is often the object of a day's ex- 
cursion from Chamonix. (It is pos- 
sible to go from either inn through 
the opening at the S.W. foot of the 
Aiguille du Midi to the Geant gl., 
but the pass, Col du Midi, is not easy, 
and certainly not always safe. ) 

The Grands Mulets is left at a very 
early hour in the morning, the 



way being now well known to the 
guides. The advantage of such an 
early start is that the snow is usually 
in better order, and the fatigue of the 
ascent is proportionately diminished, 
while by reaching the top earlier 
there is a better chance of a clear 
view. On the other hand the tra- 
veller loses some of the finest effects 
when he makes nearly the entire 
ascent by the faint light emitted by 
the snow even on dark nights (sup- 
plemented by that of a flickering 
lantern), and the cold is usually 
severely felt by those who reach the 
upper slopes of the mountain soon 
after sunrise. About 2\ hrs. from 
the Grands Mulets there is a nearly 
level and uniform field of neve called 
the Petit Plateau, the S. end of 
which is exposed to avalanches fall- 
ing from the Dome du Gouter. This 
field is followed by a steeper slope 
(the Grandes Montees), traversed by a 
great crevasse, usually half choked by 
snow and ice, which leads to the 
Grand Plateau (f hr. ), 3,932 m., 
12,901 ft. This is a snow plain of 
considerable breadth, fully an hour's 
walk when the snow is soft. Here 
MM. Martins, Bravais, and Le Pileur 
pitched their tent for several days in 
August 1844, when engaged in 
making scientific observations here, 
or on Mont Blanc, and the Dome du 
Gouter. 

From the Grand Plateau there is a 
choice of three routes to the summit, 
c being that now commonly taken. 

(a) Ancien Passage (2 hrs. ) — This 
lies to the r. or S.W. of the two 
parallel lines of rocks, the Rockers 
Rouges, which descend from the 
N.N.E. ridge of the mountain, and 
consists of steep ice or snow slopes, 
at the base of which is a huge 
crevasse (the 'Grande Crevasse'); 
but though this way is direct it is 
very much exposed to avalanches, 
and is now very rarely taken. It 
joins b on the N.N.E. ridge. 

{b) Corridor (2J-3 hrs.) — This is 
the steep hollow or funnel, filled 
with snow, which runs up, on the 



ROUTE B. THE ASCENT OF MONT BLANC 



355 



1. or N.E. of the double line of the 
Rochers Rouges, to a depression at 
its head, now known as the Col de la 
Brenva (4,333 m., 14,217 ft.), the 
loftiest pass in the Alps, save those 
between some of the peaks of Monte 
Rosa. Here the traveller obtains his 
first view of Italy, with the magnifi- 
cent Brenva gl. below, and Monte 
Rosa and the Matterhorn on the 
eastern horizon. {Mont Maudit r 
4,471 m., 14,669 ft., may be climbed 
hence in if hr. by its S. ridge. ) The 
way now turns to the S., and the 
steep snow slope or wall called the 
Mur de la CSte must be cut up till 
above the Rochers Rouges, where a is 
rejoined. A little below there is now a 
hut (4,508 m., 14,791 ft.) The slope 
becomes more gentle, and the isolated 
rocks of the Petit s Mulets (4,690 m., 
15,388 ft.) are passed before the 
summit is gained. It is on this 
highest ridge of the mountain that 
many strangers show symptoms of 
exhaustion, and this, added to a great 
storm, was the cause of the lamentable 
accident here in 1870, when three 
travellers and eight guides perished. 
Many of those who feel no more serious 
inconvenience move more slowly, and 
are conscious of a languor which is 
not felt under similar circumstances 
at a lower level. In some cases the 
sense of exhaustion is such that men 
find it necessary to halt after every 
twenty or thirty paces, and a certain 
degree of stupor comes on, which 
does not disappear till they have 
rested for some time on the summit. 
During the last part of the ascent the 
Calotte presents itself as a flattened 
dome of snow, gradually becoming 
steeper on either side, and at last 
contracted to a ridge. From the 
Petits Mulets to the top a time quite 
disproportioned to the shortness of 
the distance and the gentleness of 
the slope is required, and the first 
feeling of those who are told that 
they have reached the summit is 
often that of relief from a load of 
ungrateful labour rather than any 
keen sense of enjoyment. 



(c) Bosses du Dromadaire (3 hrs.) 
— This is the usual route. From 
the Grand Plateau an ascent up snow 
slopes in a S. direction, leads without 
any difficulty to the snowy depression 
just to the 1. of the Dome, whence 
a few minutes along the ridge brings 
the traveller to the hut (no longer 
provisioned), built here in 1890 by. 
M. Vallot, at a height of 4,362 m., 
14,312 ft. (if hr.) The N.W. ridge 
is then followed across the two 
Bosses to the summit, but is much 
exposed to wind, though by no 
means so narrow as described by the 
early explorers. 

The summit varies much in shape, 
being sometimes a dome, sometimes 
a sharp ridge. In 1893 M. Janssen 
had an Observatory built a few feet 
below the top, on the N. slope. On the 
S. the traveller will note a sort of 
snowy plain, at the further end of 
which rises the hillock dignified by 
the name of Mont Blanc de Cour- 
mayeur (4,753 m -> I5>595 ft -) Ac- 
cording to the express stipulation of 
the treaty of March 3, 1861, between 
France and Italy, regulating the 
frontier after the cession of Savoy, 
the political frontier runs, round the 
S. edge of this snowy plain, through 
M. Blanc de Courmayeur, so that the 
whole of the highest summit of Mont 
Blanc itself lies in French territory. 

To describe the view, if that were 
possible, would little serve the tra- 
veller's purpose. His power of 
identifying the individual features of 
the immense panorama will depend 
upon his personal acquaintance with 
each district that comes within his 
range of vision ; and here he who 
has previously explored many parts 
of the Alps, and made many minor 
ascents, has an immense advantage 
over the new comer, who is simply 
bewildered by the enormous extent 
and complexity of the mountain 
ranges that are unrolled before him. 
Some slight idea of the extent of the 
view may be gathered from Herr 
Imfeld's panorama from the summit, 
published in outline with vol. xxx. of 

A A 2 



356 PENNINE ALPS. § 16. 



MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



the ' Jahrbuch ' of the Swiss Alpine 
Club, and to be later issued in a more 
complete form. 

2. The St. Gervais Route. — It has 
been already remarked that this route 
lies along the crest of the ridge con- 
necting the Aiguille du Gouter with 
the summit of Mont Blanc. 

The N.W. face of the Aiguille du 
Gouter is formed by a number of 
very steep parallel ridges of rock, 
with couloirs of ice or frozen snow 
between them. One of these couloirs, 
broader and more continuous than 
the rest, stretches from near the 
summit of the Aiguille to the French 
Bionnassay gl. , which lies at the 
W. base of the ridge. None of the 
rocky ridges is practicable through- 
out from the base to the summit, and 
the main objection to this route arises 
from the necessity of passing across 
the great central couloir. At certain 
times, especially in hot weather or 
after a storm, this may involve 
some risk, especially to the man 
engaged in cutting steps in the ice, 
owing to the crumbling condition of 
the top of the ridge, whence stones are 
constantly detached to find their way 
into the couloir, down which they 
are discharged with formidable 
velocity. 

The ascent may be made direct 
from St. Gervais by way of the 
hamlet of Bionnassay and the 
N. bank of the French glacier of that 
name, but more easily from the 
Pavilion Belle vue, above the Col de 
Voza(Rte. E). Turning to the S.E., 
a faint track leads along steep grass 
slopes round the S. flank of the 
Mont Lachat (2,111 m., 6,926 ft.) 
The old route traversed round the S. 
base of the ridge of Les Rognes, and 
then mounted in order to rejoin that 
now usually taken near the foot of the 
Aiguille. The new 7-oute (much 
shorter) mounts from the N.W. foot 
of Les Rognes to its E. crest, and 
crosses it towards the Tete Ronsse 
(3,139 m., 10,299 ft.), which is left 
to the r. in order to mount to the 
small Tete Rousse gl. ; this is 



crossed to the foot of the great 
central couloir in the N.W. face of the 
Aiguille. The rocks on the r. 
bank of this couloir are climbed till 
it is traversed about half-way up 
(stones often fall here), and the rocks 
on the other bank ascended to the 
wretched wooden hut, 3,819 m. , 
12,530 ft. (now rarely used), 24 m. 
(79 ft.) below the top of the Aiguille. 
4 hrs. or less suffice to go from the 
Pavilion to the foot of the Aiguille, 
which may be climbed, under ordi- 
nary circumstances, in if-2^- hrs. 
more, according to the state of the 
rocks. 

In fine weather the passage of the 
ridge connecting the Aiguille with the 
Dome du Gouter and the summit of 
Mont Blanc offers no real difficulty, 
and it is not easy to point out any 
other route at nearly so great a 
height which involves so little labour 
either in ascending or descending. 
Fine weather is, however, indis- 
pensable, as at this height a moderate 
wind is unbearable, and clouds may 
make it impossible to follow the true 
direction. This alone explains the 
fact that the completion of this route, 
though so great a matter of interest, 
was so long delayed, ff-ii hr. 
may be allowed from the Aiguille to 
the Dome, and \ hr. more to 
M. Vallot's hut, whence it is \\ hr. 
by route 1 (from Chamonix) to" the 
summit. The summit may, therefore, 
be gained in 8|-9j hrs. or so from 
the Pavilion Bellevue. 

On the St. Gervais route the most 
laborious and difficult part of the 
expedition is encountered on the way 
up the Aiguille du Gouter. The 
ascent then commands distant views, 
continually increasing in grandeur 
and extent, and the summit of Mont 
Blanc is reached without fatigue. 
But the ascent by this route is long 
unless the wretched hut on the 
Aiguille be used. On the other 
hand, by the Chamonix route the ice 
scenery is far more striking, and the 
inn at the Grands Mulets is a good 
starting point, or even the Vallot hut 



ROUTE B. THE ASCENT OF MONT BLANC 357 



on the Bosses ; the latter is, of 
course, far nearer the summit than 
that on the Aiguille, while the inn at 
the Grands Mulets, though more 
distant than either, is far more 
comfortable. 

3. The Courmayeur Routes. — 
With the single exception of the 1863 
route (mentioned in the historical 
notice of Mont Blanc towards the 
beginning of this Route), all the 
ways up Mont Blanc from Cour- 
mayeur lie up the steep Italian side 
of the mountain, by one or other of 
the great glaciers that stream down 
that side. 

For the 1863 route it is necessary 
to sleep in a poor hut (formerly filled 
with ice, but now comfortable), 
3,564 m. , 11,693 ft., near the S. foot 
of the Aiguille du Midi, and about 
2J-3 hrs. from the Col du Geant, 
unless it is preferred to spend the 
night in that on the Col du 
Geant itself, and so lengthen the 
next day's journey. From the Midi 
hut the traveller must mount the 
crevassed slopes (or the rocks on 
their 1.) on the N.W. face of the 
Mont Blanc du Tacul (4,249 m., 
13,941 ft.), passing just below its 
summit (3 hrs.) The ridge is then 
followed for some time, then a very 
steep snow slope ascended to a point 
(4,360 m. , 14,305 ft.), half-way up 
the N.N.W. arete of the Mont 
Maudit (3 hrs.), whence half an 
hour's easy walk leads to the head 
of the Corridor, or Col de la Brenva, 
where Route 1. b. is joined and the 
summit gained in if hr. more. (It is 
possible, but much time is lost 
thereby, to force a route direct from 
the hut on the Col du Geant by a 
difficult couloir between the Mont 
Blanc du Tacul and the Mont 
Maudit, but the first party took about 
5f hrs. to the crest between these 
peaks. ) 

Apart from this route, and some 
fanciful variations which space does 
not allow us to mention in these 
pages, there are five other routes from 
Courmayeur up the Italian side of 



Mont Blanc. These follow more or 
less five of the six great glaciers 
which flow down from Mont Blanc in 
a S. or S.W. direction. They may 
be here briefly indicated in topo- 
graphical order, but none of them 
can be recommended to ordinary 
travellers, save hi., which is not 
free from the danger of falling stones, 
and iv., which is now the way 
commonly taken by those who make 
the ascent from Courmayeur. 

(i. ) By the Brenva Glacier. — This 
route was first made in 1865 by 
Messrs. G. S. Mathews, A. W. 
Moore, H. and F. Walker, with 
Melchior and Jacob Anderegg. It is, 
perhaps, the most dangerous and 
difficult route yet effected up the 
peak. It is necessary to. bivouac 
5 hrs. from Courmayeur on. some- 
rocks, then to traverse the very cre- 
vassed upper Brenva gl. to the foot of 
a great buttress, which is climbed by 
couloirs and a very sharp ice or snow 
arete to a snowy hollow above, 
whence either the Col de la Brenva 
(or head of the Corridor), 4,333 m., 
14,217 ft., or the Petits Mulcts 
(4,690 m., 15,388 ft.) may be easily 
attained. 10 or 1 1 hrs.' walking are 
required from the bivouac. 

(ii. ) By the Fresnay Glacier. — This 
route was discovered by Mr. Eccles, 
with M. C. and A. Payot, in 1877. 
It has this peculiarity, that fr,om be- 
ginning to end it is absolutely inde- 
pendent of any other of the routes 
up Mont Blanc. The small Chdtelet 
gl. must be crossed to gain that of 
Brouillard (whence the direct ascent 
to Mont Blanc has not yet been 
effected, despite several attempts), 
and then the difficult Col du Fresnay 
traversed to reach the steep upper 
slopes of the Fresnay gl. Another 
steep ascent leads to the opening 
between the Aiguille Blanche de 
Peteret^ 4,109 m., 13,482 ft. (best 
ascended hence) and Mont Blanc de 
Cour77iayeur (4,753 m. , 15,595 ft.) 
This narrow ridge is then followed to 
the summit of the last-named peak, 
whence the top of Mont Blanc is 



358 PENNINE ALPS. § 16. MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



gained by an easy snow slope in \ hr. 
more. The first party took 8 hrs. 
50 min. (largely step-cutting) from a 
very lofty bivouac, above the Col du 
Fresnay, and many hours distant from 
Courmayeur. 

(iii.) By the Mo7it Blanc Glacier. — 
This is the most easterly of the 
three great glaciers that flow down 
S.W. from Mont Blanc (see Rte. G) 
to join the Italian Miage gl. Mr. T. 
S. Kennedy, with J. Fischer and 
J. A, Carrel, accomplished the ascent 
by means of it in 1872, and it was 
long thought to be the best route 
from the Courmayeur side, despite 
the risk of falling stones. The pre- 
vious night must be spent at the 
Quintino Sella Club hut (3,107 m., 
10,194 ft.)> above the right bank of 
the gl. , and 7 hrs. from Courmayeur. 
The head of the Mont Blanc gl. is 
reached thence, and a great rock and 
snow arete followed to the Bosses 
ridge, \ hr. below the summit 
(7^- hrs. from the hut by this route). 
There are no great difficulties on this 
route, but stones often fall. 

(iv. ) By the Do7ne Glacier. — This is 
the central of the three great glaciers 
flowing to the S.W. from Mont 
Blanc, and up it lies the now usual 
route from Courmayeur. There is an 
-excellent shelter for the night in the 
shape of the Dome Club but (c. 3,200 
m., 10,499 ft.), on the r. bank of the 
glacier, and about 6^ hrs. from Cour- 
mayeur. The Col de Miage (Rte. G) 
route is followed to the foot of the rocky 
spur between the Dome gl. and the 
Italian Bionnassay gl. to the W. 
(5 hrs.) These are then climbed to 
some pastures, whence the hut is 
reached by crossing a snow field. 
The E. branch of the D6?7ie gl. was 
first desce7ided from the Dome du 
Gouter in 1865, by Messrs. E. N. 
Buxton, F. C. Grove, and R. J. S. 
Macdonald, with Jacob Anderegg, 
J. P. Cachat, and P. Taugwalder, 
jr., and first asce7ided in 1868, on 
the way to the Dome and so to Mont 
Blanc, by Mr. F. A. G. Brown, 
with Julien Grange, D. Chabod, and 



J. F. Lalle. But a better way up the 
W. bra7ich was struck out in 1890 
by Signori A. Ratti, Grasselli, and 
Bonin, with J. Gadin and A. Pro- 
ment, and this way is now always 
taken. From the hut this branch, 
which, though steep and crevassed, 
offers no extraordinary difficulties, is 
mounted to the gap at the N. end of 
the Aiguilles Grises ridge, and S. of 
the junction of that ridge with the 
great arete running up from the Col 
de Bionnassay (3J hrs.) In a few 
minutes the last-named ridge is 
gained about 200 ft. above the Col de 
Bionnassay (3,940 m. , 12,927 ft.), 
and henceforth followed. It is narrow 
in one spot, but not remarkably so, 
though it is corniced. In this way 
the broad snow saddle just S.E. of the 
Dome is gained in 2 hrs. , and thence 
in 20 min. more the Vallot hut, 
i\ hr. below the summit, which is 
thus about 7 hrs. or less from the 
Dome hut under favourable circum- 
stances. 

(v.) By the Italia7t Bio7i7iassay 
Glacier. — This is the most westerly 
of the three great glaciers flowing 
S.W. from Mont Blanc. It descends 
in an icefall, which must be climbed 
to join route iv. at the point where it 
strikes the Bionnassay arete. This 
route was taken in part by Messrs. 
Adams -Reilly and J. Birkbeck, with 
M. Croz, M. C. Payot, and M. 
Tairraz, in 1864, who gained the 
glacier above the icefall by a traverse 
from the Col de Miage, and also as 
far as the Dome by M. Vignon in 
1885, but it was not till 1889 that 
Signori Martelli and Gonella, with 
three friends and six guides, took it 
as a route up Mont Blanc. It is far 
more circuitous than route iv. , which 
has, too, the advantage of a good 
Club hut. 



ROUTE C. THE CHAMONIX AIGUILLES 



359 



Route C. 

THE CHAMONIX AIGUILLES. 

It was pointed out in the Intro- 
duction to this Section that in the 
Mont Blanc range the characteristic 
form of sharp pinnacle which has re- 
ceived the name of Aiguille is to be 
seen in great perfection. The back- 
bone of that range is composed, 
speaking generally, of protogine. 
This rock was for long a perplexity 
to geologists, but is now admitted to 
be a fairly coarse granite, in which, 
however, certain structures have been 
produced by pressure, followed by 
some mineral changes ; in other 
words, the rock has assumed a slight 
foliation. To this structure the cha- 
racteristic scenery of the Chamonix 
Aiguilles is due ; their rock weathers 
into jagged teeth and spires, instead 
of into the huge 'tors, 5 or cuboidal 
blocks, like ruined masonry, which 
are more characteristic features of 
ordinary granite. 

Historically the term ' Aiguille ' is, 
not unnaturally, first used of the Dm 
(1742), but by 1785, at least, it was 
specially applied to the five which 
are par excellence the ' Aiguilles of 
Chamonix,' as they overhang the E. 
side of the valley — viz. Midi, Plan, 
Blaitiere, Grepon, and Cha~rmoz. 
Later (by the end of the eighteenth 
century) the name was given to many 
other peaks of the range, and it is said 
that at present nearly sixty points 
are so entitled. In this Section we 
include, for the sake of convenience, 
the score or so of peaks (a few of 
which do not bear the title of Aiguille) 
which rise round the Mer de Glace 
and its tributary glaciers — in other 
words, those between the mass of 
Mont Blanc itself and the Argentiere 
glacier. (The rest of the Aiguilles 
will be more appropriately described 
in other Routes, in connection with 
the passes near which they are 
situated. ) 

The history of early mountaineering 
in the Mont Blanc range is the history 



of repeated ascents of Mont Blanc. 
The first of the Chamonix Aiguilles 
(in the sense in which that name will 
be used henceforth in this Section) to 
fall was the Midi, in 1856, but most of 
the others were not conquered till the 
seventies, a few even holding out till 
the early eighties. This is doubtless 
due to the look of inaccessibility 
about most of these Aiguilles, which 
served to keep their admirers at their 
feet. For the sake of convenience, 
the Chamonix Aiguilles to be de- 
scribed in outline in this Section may 
be divided into three groups : — 

1. Those W. of the Monte?ivers. — 
This head includes the five great 
Aiguilles — Midi, Plan, Blaitiere, 
Grepon, and Charmoz. With the 
exception of the Dru, and the Verte, 
these are the best known, and for 
that reason of the greatest historical 
importance. On this group (besides 
the Guide of M. Kurz) the mono- 
graph (with a map) by MM. Vallot, 
in vol. xxi. (1894) of the ' Annuaire ' 
of the French Alpine Club ' should 
be consulted. 

2. Those E. and S.E. of the Mont- 
ejivers. — These include the Dru, the 
Moine, the Verte, the Droiies 
(4,030 m., 13,222 ft.), the Courtes 
(3,855 m., 12,648ft.), the Triolet, the 
Tatifre (3,739 m., 12,268 ft), the 
Eboulement (3,609 m. , 1 1,841 ft. ), and 
the Leschaux (3,770 m., 12,369 ft.) 
With three exceptions they all rise 
round the great Talefre glacier, the 
easternmost feeder of the Mer de 
Glace ; but four only (those not 
having heights above) need be de- 
scribed in these pages. 

3. Those S. of the Montenvers. — 
This group takes in the Grandes 
and the Petites Jorasses, the Kochefo7't y 
the Mont Mallet, the Periades, the 
Aiguille du Tacul, and the Geant. 

Minute details as to the routes up 
all these peaks will be found in M. 
Kurz's Guidebook, mentioned in 
the Introduction to this Section, for 
the limits of space do not permit 
more than a general description in 
I this work. 



3 6o PENNINE ALPS. § 16. MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



(i.) The Aiguilles W. of the Mont- 
envers. — First in topographical order 
comes the Aig. du Midi (3,843 m., 
12, 608 ft.), which was also the first 
of the Chamonix Aiguilles to be suc- 
cessfully attacked. As far back as 
2818 a Polish gentleman, Count 
Matzewski, with six guides, reached 
the N. and lower summit (3,783 
m., 12,412 ft.), and in 1856 the 
guides of Count Ferdinand de Bouille 
scaled the higher peak (3,843 m., 
12,608 ft.) The reason of these 
early attacks is probably due to the 
fact that the Midi stands immediately 
above Chamonix, close to the usual 
route taken on the ascent of Mont 
Blanc, while the great snow basin, 
now called the Vallee Blanche, at its 
E. foot, seemed to offer an even more 
direct route up Mont Blanc, though, 
as was seen in the last Route, this 
was only achieved in 1863, a party 
in 1855 having stopped when they 
had accomplished all the novel part 
of the route. The S. peak is that 
usually climbed, and may be gained 
in 7 \ hrs. from the Montenvers, or in 
3| hrs. from the Col du Geant. The 
ordinary route is from the Vallee 
Blanche by the N.E. arete, and the 
good firm rocks of the E. face. The 
Aig. du Plan (3,673 m., 12,051 ft.), 
first reached in 1871 by Messrs. Ec- 
cles and Tideman, is rarely climbed. 
It is gained by leaving the Col du 
Geant route at the foot of the seracs, 
then mounting by the Plaji glacier, 
N. of the Petit Rognon, to the snowy 
gap to the W. of the peak, and then up 
the final rocks on the Chamonix side 
(7 hrs. from the Montenvers). The 
ascent of the Aiguille de Blaitiere 
(3,520 m., 11,549 ft.), unlike that of 
the two just described, is made on its 
N. side from the Nantillo7is glacier. 
From the snowy opening between the 
two points (gained by a rock ridge on 
the 1. of the great snow or ice cur- 
tain falling to the Nantillons glacier) 
the lower summit, that to the N. 
(3,504 m., 11,497 ft.), the only one 
seen from Chamonix, is reached in 
\ hr., but I hr. is required to scale 



the much harder S. summit, first at- 
tained by Mr. E. R. Whitwell, in 
1874 (7 hrs. from the Montenvers). 

The two remaining Aiguilles of this 
group are at its E. extremity, and 
their nomenclature has been a source 
of great confusion. Formerly they 
were both called Charmoz, being 
distinguished as the N. and S. 
Summits, and this is their name in 
Alpine history. But Herr Imfeld's 
map (which will, no doubt, fix the 
nomenclature of the range) has 
adopted the local usage, according 
to which the name Grepon (formerly 
given to the summit 2,868 m. — 
9,410 ft. — now called the Petits 
Charmoz — see Rte. A. Excursion 6), 
is given to the S. summit, the name 
Charmoz (with the prefix ' Grands ') 
being reserved for the N. summit. 
The Aig. de Grepon (3,489 m., 
11,447 ft.) is probably the most strik- 
ing feature in the view from the 
I Grands Charmoz, as it thence presents 
! an extraordinarily precipitous and fan- 
i tastic appearance, though rearing 
; itself not very many yards away to 
I the S. Any one who has seen it from 
; that point can easily understand that 
it defied all attacks till 188 1, when 
I it was conquered by Mr. A. F. 
Mummery, with Alexander Burgener 
and Benedict Venetz. In shape the 
mountain may be compared to an 
upright tombstone. Like the Grands 
Charmoz, it has no well-defined top, 
the summit ridge resembling a great 
comb, with gigantic teeth sticking 
up. The last tooth but one to the S. 
is the highest point, but is only 5 or 6 ft. 
loftier than the northernmost tooth. 
Mr. Mummery and his guides climbed 
from the Nantillons glacier up the 
great couloir between the Grepon 
and the Charmoz to its head, then 
bore to the r. up a small couloir, 
in which ice is often found, clam- 
bered up a difficult rock chimney, 
passed through a hole on to the face 
overlooking the Mer de Glace, and so 
attained the N. tooth (August 3, 
1 88 1 ). On their return to Chamonix, 
! with the mountain in full view, they 



ROUTE C. THE CH. 



AMONIX AIGUILLES 



36i 



thought that the more southerly tooth 
looked higher. So or August 5, 
1 88 1, they repeated their former 
climb, traversed the whole summit 
ridge, and gained the real culminating 
point. Between the two summits 
there is an almost sheer drop of about 
60 ft., which can only be passed by 
means of an extra rope. The 
highest summit was not again scaled 
till 1885, when M. Dunod, with 
Francois and Gaspard Simond, and 
Auguste Tairraz, stormed it by the 
S.W. arete, a route quite as difficult 
as that by the N. arete. By either 
route 8-9 hrs. are required from the 
Montenvers to the top. 

The Aiguille des Grands Charmoz 
(3,442 m., 11,293 ft.) was also first 
climbed in 1880 by Mr. Mummery, 
with the same gu des as in 1881. 
The ascent is easier than that of the 
Grepon, but it is none the less one of 
the most interesting rock climbs 
which can be made from the Mont- 
envers. It is still rather doubtful if 
the S.most tooth but one or the 
central tooth is the higher, probably 
the former. Mr. Mummery from the 
Nantillons glacier climbed up the W. 
face to the N.most gap in the ridge, 
and then went along the crest to the 
central tooth. The S. peak is more 
easily gained by way of the great coul- 
oir between the Grepon and the 
Charmoz, then traversing the W. face 
in a N. direction till immediately 
below the highest point. The entire 
ridge may be traversed in either 
direction in 2 or 3 hrs., and this 
forms a delightful day's scramble. 
About 6 hrs. from the Montenvers 
are required to the summit. 

(ii. ) The Aiguilles E. and S.E. of 
tke Montenvers. — In this group the 
Verte and the Dru are the most 
important from an historical point of 
view, but some of the other peaks 
offer great attractions to the active 
mountaineer. The ascent of the 
Aiguille Verte in 1865 broke the 
spell hitherto surrounding the more 
difficult of the Chamonix Aiguilles. 
Backed by the great mass of Mont 



Blanc, the Aiguille Verte is often lost 
in the view from the Bernese Ober- 
land and Zermatt mountains, though 
from a nearer standpoint — e.g. the 
Col de Balme — its size and beauty can 
be fully appreciated. Perhaps it 
looks grandest from the Jura, or from 
just above Geneva itself, whence, next 
to Mont Blanc, it is by far the most 
conspicuous object in the whole range. 
The conquest of the Dru in 1878 
settled in the negative the vexed 
question whether the obelisk gazed at 
from the Montenvers by thousands of 
tourists was the real summit. It 
proved further that the real summit 
(or Grand Dru) is visible from 
Chamonix, appearing as a rocky 
point sticking out on the ridge of the 
peak now called the Petit Dru. The 
lower point was climbed a year later 
than the higher, and proved to be the 
more difficult, but the ropes and iron 
stanchions which now adorn both 
peaks have sensibly diminished the 
difficulties encountered by the early 
explorers. 

The Grand Bru (3,755 m. , 
12,320 ft.) was conquered in 1878 by 
Messrs. C. T. Dent and J. W. 
Hartley, with Alexander Burgener 
and K. Maurer. Mr. Dent's long- 
continued and persevering efforts 
thus met with their due reward. No 
new way has since been discovered, 
save over the Petit Dru. From the 
Charfioua glacier it is necessary to 
climb by a couloir the rock curtain 
between the peak and the buttress 
of the Aiguille Verte nearly to, but 
to the I. of, the gap between those 
two points. By means of a ladder, 
placed across a deep gully, the first 
party got on to the mountain itself, 
traversed the S. face for a short 
distance, then forced their way up by 
some steep and difficult rock couloirs. 
The E. arete was struck a little way 
below the top (9- 10 hrs. from the 
Montenvers to the summit). 

The Petit Dru (3, 7 32 m., 12, 245 ft.) 
was first reached in 1879 by M. 
Charlet-Straton, with P. Payot and 
F. Folliguet. The route diverges 



362 PENNINE ALPS. § 16. MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



from that up the Grand Dru at the 
head of the Charpoua glacier, and 
never rejoins it. The W. ridge, 
whence the Montenvers is in full 
view, is next reached by an easy 
couloir, and followed to the point 
at which it abuts on the peak 
itself. Hence the magnificent preci- 
pice which forms such a striking 
object from the Montenvers is seen 
from top to bottom, at the distance of 
a mere stone's throw. A succession 
of steep and difficult chimneys remain 
to be climbed before the summit is 
attained in 10 hrs. from the Monten- 
vers. This is a long and fatiguing 
expedition. The traverse from one 
summit to the other was first made by 
M. Dunod in 1887. It takes 3 hrs., 
as the wall of the Grand Dru above 
the gap between the two summits is 
exceedingly steep, so that 80 yds. of 
extra rope are required. 

The Aiguille Yerte (4,127 m., 
13,541 ft.) was first ascended in 1865 
by Mr. E, Whymper, with Christian 
Aimer and Franz Biener. This party 
mounted a smaller couloir on the E. 
of the great one which runs up from 
the Talefre glacier to the E. arete of the 
peak, crossed the great couloir, and 
were driven more and more to the 1. 
till they gained the ridge falling to- 
wards the Aiguille du Moine, by 
which the summit was attained in 

hrs. from a bivouac on the rocks 
of the Couvercle. It is now more 
usual to mount the great couloir direct 
to the E. arete, 40 min. along which 
leads to the top. It is safer and 
better in every way, however, to 
climb straight up the rocks on the 
W. bank of the great couloir direct to 
the summit of the peak, or to strike 
the S.W. arete quite low down, and 
to follow it nearly in its entire length. 
Falling stones abound on this moun- 
tain, which is, therefore, but rarely 
ascended. 

The Aiguille du Moine (3,413 m. , 
11,198 ft. ) is not a specially difficult 
climb, and may be gained in 6 hrs. 
from the Montenvers by a gully in the 
S. rocky face, running from the Moine 



glacier nearly to the top of the 
peak. 

The Aigtalle de Triolet (3,876 m., 
12,717 ft.) stands on the outskirts of 
the district described in this Route, 
and commands a most magnificent 
view. It was first ascended in 1874 
by Mr. J. A. Garth Marshall, with 
Joh. Fischer and Ulrich Aimer, from 
the E. It seems probable that there 
are no obstacles which would defeat 
an attempt from the Col de Triolet, 
but it has not yet been done thence, 
so that at present this Aiguille cannot 
be reckoned among those accessible 
from the Montenvers. 

(hi. ) The Aiguilles on the S. of the 
Montenvers. — In this group the 
Aiguille du Geant, as a rock pinnacle 
which long seemed quite inaccessible, 
and the Aiguille du Tacul, one of the 
finest points of view in the whole dis- 
trict, are particularly worthy of note. 
As yet the loftiest of the peaks in- 
cluded in this group, though one of 
the most conspicuous from the Mont- 
envers, the Grandes Jorasses (4,205 m., 
1 3, 797 ft-), like its neighbour the 
Petit es Jorasses (3,658 m., 12,002 ft.), 
has only been climbed from the 
Italian side, so that they must be 
reckoned among the ascents to be 
made from Courmayeur. 

The Mont Mallet (3,988 m. , 13,085 
ft. ) is situated a little to the N. of the 
main watershed, on the ridge between 
the Aiguille de Rochefort and the 
Aiguille du Tacul, and is an admirable 
point of view. It was first attained 
in 1 87 1 by Messrs. Leslie Stephen, 
Wallroth, and Loppe, with Melchior 
Anderegg and two Chamonix guides. 
The ascent takes 8 hrs. from the 
Montenvers, and is effected by way of 
the Mont Mallet glacier and the 
N.N.E. arete, gained from that 
glacier. Another, perhaps more 
direct, route is to gain the N. arete 
either from the Mont Mallet glacier, 
on the E. , or from the Periades gla- 
cier, on the N.W. It is an interesting 
excursion to ascend from one glacier 
J and to descend to the other. If time 
I allows it is well worth while to follow 



ROUTE C. THE CHAMONIX AIGUILLES 



363 



the ridge S. for 40 min. to the 

Aiguille de Rochefort (4,003 m., 
13,134 ft.), whence the view over 
Italy is exceedingly fine. 

The Aiguille du Tacul (3,438 m., 
11,280 ft.) is famed for its marvellous 
view, as it rises in the very centre of 
this district, at the N. end of the great 
spur running N. from the Aiguille de 
Rochefort, between the Geant (or 
Tacul) and the Leschaux glaciers. It 
may be ascended from the N.W. by 
the ridge stretching up from near the 
Tacul lake, from the S.W. by the 
couloir running up to the ridge be- 
tween the peak and Les Periades on 
the S., and from the E. by the 
Capucin glacier, between the peak 
and the Capucin rocks. 5 or 6 hrs. 
suffice to reach the summit from the 
Montenvers, and it is an excursion 
much to be recommended. 

The Periades (3,491 m., 11,454 ft.) 
rises just S. of the Aiguille du 
Tacul, and can be gained from the 
Montenvers, by the rocks of its E. or 
W. face, in 6-7 hrs. 

The Aiguille du Greant (4,014 m. , 
13,170 ft. ) long defied all attacks, and 
was only finally conquered in 1882 by 
driving iron stanchions, for hand and 
foot hold, into the most difficult bits 
of rock. Now it is so festooned with 
ropes that for a party of competent 
mountaineers the ascent presents, 
under favourable conditions, no diffi- 
culty whatever. From the hut on the 
Col du Geant the would-be climber 
must bear N.E., and ascend over 
rocks and snow patches to the S.W. 
foot of the peak. A ledge, and then 
a chimney, lead round to the foot of 
the slabs on the N. called the 
' Shoulder. ' The first slab is over- 
come by means of a fixed rope, after 
which a short traverse to the 1. lands 
the clamberer in another chimney, 
where he finds another rope to assist 
him. A difficult traverse leads back 
to the face overlooking the Col du 
Geant, and here once more fixed 
ropes are of great help, and lead 
straight up the steep slabs to the N. 
Summit (3J hrs. from the hut), which 



is about 6 ft. lower than the S. 
Summit, gained thence in \ hr. It is 
wise not to start too early from the 
hut, so as to give the sun time to 
warm the rocks, and to melt any ice 
which may have formed in the course 
of the preceding night on the fixed 
ropes. 

The N. Summit was first reached, 
in July 1882, by the four Signori 
Sella, with J. J. , J. B. , and Daniel 
Maquignaz. Three weeks later Mr. 
W. W. Graham, with A. Payot and 
A. Cupelin, profited by the iron 
stanchions left by the first party to 
repeat the ascent, and went on to the 
higher S. Summit, the culminating 
point of the Aiguille, of which, there- 
fore, this was the first ascent. Of late 
years, specially on the Italian side, 
the prefix ' Dent ' has been given to 
this peak, but this term is unknown 
in the Mont Blanc district and in 
Alpine history, and the name ' Aiguille 
du Geant,' or ' Le Geant,' occurs in 
all the early writers, from Saussure 
onwards. It should be noted that 
the name ' Geant 5 has always be- 
longed to this peak, and has nothing 
to do, as might be supposed, with 
Mont Blanc itself. 



Route D k 

CHAMONIX TO COURMAYEUR BY THE 
COL DU GEANT AND OTHER 
PASSES FROM THE MONTENVERS. 

The Col du Geant long ranked as 
the only pass across the range of 
Mont Blanc, and as the highest in 
the Alps. Recent explorers have, 
however, so much enlarged the list 
of practicable passes that this has 
had to yield to numerous competitors. 
It has, however, lost none of its 
attraction for the lover of grand 
scenery, and there are few excursions 
that, within the compass of a single 
day's walk, initiate the traveller so 



364 PENNINE ALPS. § 16. MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



thoroughly into the wonders and 
beauties of the ice world. 

In a most interesting account of 
the passes in the Aosta valley, being 
a report made in 1 69 1 -4 by Filiberto 
Amadeo Arnod, an official of the 
duke of Savoy, mention is made of 
the then existing tradition of a passage 
from Courmayeur by the Mont Frety 
glaciers to Chamonix, but Arnod's 
attempt in 1689 to force his way over 
failed because of the huge crevasses ; 
the same reason was given in 
1 74 1 to Windham and in 1742 to 
Martel by their Chamonix guides for 
the abandonment of this old pass. It 
seems to have been certainly tra- 
versed about 1740 or so by one Ribel, 
a messenger, carrying letters from 
Geneva to Turin ; but the first 
authentic passage, at least by a 
traveller, was that effected by an 
Englishman named Hill, with Marie 
Couttet and P. Balmat, in 1786. It 
was crossed twice in 1787 by Bourrit, 
then by Exchaquet, and became 
famous and well known after Saussure 
encamped there for seventeen days, 
July3-I9, 1788, making observations. 

About a dozen other passes are 
now known by which the traveller 
may go from the Montenvers to 
Courmayeur, but, with three or four 
exceptions, they possess no advantages 
likely to recommend them to any 
save climbers seeking a variation on 
the usual way. 

In taking the Col du Geant 2 hrs. 
are saved by sleeping either at the 
Montenvers Hotel, on the Chamonix 
side, or at the Mont Frety inn, on 
the Courmayeur side. There is also 
a Club hut, affording shelter for 
twenty persons, on the crest of the 
pass itself. Constant liability to 
change is the familiar characteristic 
of the glacier regions, and this especi- 
ally holds good of the Col du Geant. 
In fine weather the expedition in- 
volves no risk other than those which 
everywhere in the Alps attend the 
neglect of well-known precautions. 
The accident which in i860 cost the 
lives of three English travellers and 



I one guide might just as well have 
occurred in many places often visited 
by strangers. 

From the Montenvers the way to 
the Col du Geant, as far as the 
junction of the Geant and Leschaux 
glaciers, is the same as that to the 
Jar din (Rte. A. Excursion 5). At 
this point it becomes necessary to 
bear S., and, leaving the Aig. du 
Tacul on the L, the traveller finds 
I himself, in about 2f hrs. from the 
Hotel, face to face with the grand 
icefall of the Geant glacier, which 
has been likened to 1 the foam of ten 
Niagaras placed end to end and 
stiffened into rest.' This great ice 
; cascade exhibits on the grandest 
scale that peculiar condition of the 
i ice for which Saussure's name, 
j seracs (taken from a stage in the 
i process of cheese-making), has been 
retained (see the General Introduc- 
tion, article on Glaciers). The vast 
mass of neve that is accumulated in 
the basin, of which the highest 
summits are the Mont Blanc du 
Tacul (4,249 m«, 13,941 ft.) and the 
Aiguille du Midi (3,843 m. , 12,609 ft. ) 
I on the W., and the Aiguille du 
i Geant (4,014 m., 13,170 ft.) on the 
I E. , descends through the compara- 
tively narrow opening between the 
j rocks of La Noire — one of the main 
, buttresses of the last-named peak — 
and an island of rock, called the 
Petit Rognon) on the opposite side of 
; the glacier. The usual route is to 
1 ascend by the W. side of the icefall, 
passing close by the Petit Rognon, 
I though it occasionally happens that 
it is easier to go by the E. side, or 
even over the lower rocks of La 
Noire. But it should be borne in 
I mind that on the E. side there is 
! some danger of falling stones and 
avalanches. Soon after passing the 
icefall the great upper plateau of the 
Geant glacier is crossed, the rock 
known as La Vierge being left on 
the r. , and by easy snow slopes the 
depression between the Aiguilles 
j Marbrees on the N.E. and the Flam- 
j beaux on the W. is gained. This 



ROUTE D. CHAMONIX TO COURMAYEUR 



365 



is the Col du Geant (3,371 m., 
11,060 ft.), attained in 6-7 hrs. from 
the Montenvers. 

j£For the Aiguille du Geant see 
Rtes. C and E, and for the Tour 
Ronde Rte. E.J 

The view from the pass is very fine, 
so that the traveller who has left the 
Montenvers before daylight is amply 
repaid for his exertions if he is 
fortunate enough to have reached the 
top before clouds have gathered on 
the Italian side. 

It does not, however, remind the 
traveller that he is standing on the 
main watershed of the chain of Mont 
Blanc. The fine group of peaks 
surrounding the Aiguille Verte 
does indeed preserve its familiar 
outline when seen from a few yards 
E. of the pass, but so dwarfed as not 
to be immediately recognisable. The 
great Aiguilles W. of the Montenvers 
too present a strikingly different 
appearance from the well-known 
Chamonix view. The immense glacier, 
whichhas just been traversed, stretches 
away to the N. in dazzling whiteness, 
blocked at the end by the Dru and 
the Verte, rising steeply from the 
glaciers at their feet. To the E. the 
rocky pinnacle of the Aiguille du 
Geant and the snowy mass of the 
Grandes Jorasses form an imposing 
foreground, while in the far distance 
the Grand Combin and the Matter- 
horn tower high above their neighbours, 
and every detail of the entire mass of 
Monte Rosa itself is distinctly seen. 
On the W. are the precipices of Mont 
Blanc himself, and those of his satel- 
lites, from the Mont Blanc du Tacul 
to the Aiguille Blanche de Peteret, 
while the near view in this direction 
is completed by the obelisk of the 
Aiguille Noire de Peteret. The por- 
tion of the horizon which perhaps 
attracts most attention is that lying 
to the S. Courmayeur and the green 
valleys of Italy lie just below the 
spectator, while the snowy peaks of 
the Graians and of the Dauphine 
Alps fill up a most splendid pano- 
rama. 



The reader of Saussure's < Travels * 
will recall with interest the ac- 
count of his seventeen days' resi- 
dence on this spot. In spite of all 
that has been done in modern times, 
no more striking proof has ever been 
given of persevering devotion to the 
cause of natural science. The highest 
rocks, which are within a few feet of 
the actual Col, are almost exclusively 
composed of quartz, which forms 
veins in the protogine form of granite, 
that constitutes the main axis of the 
Mont Blanc range. 

The excellent Club hut, lately re- 
built (to be replaced in 1899 by a 
small Inn now in process of construc- 
tion), is a few feet below the pass, 
on the Italian side, and in summer is 
a favourite day's excursion for visitors 
at Courmayeur. 

The descent towards Courmayeur 
may at first appear exceedingly long 
and steep, but there is no real dif- 
ficulty. A ridge projecting from the 
face of the mountain at once presents 
itself as the natural and secure track. 
The ground falls away very steeply 
on either side of this ridge for the 
first few hundred feet, after which 
the path is easily followed down the 
broken ground and loose stones on 
the 1. (or E. ) of the ridge, as far as a 
small chimney, at the foot of the 
rocks, which is locally known as ' la 
Porte. ' Very shortly a mule path is 
reached, which leads down the grass 
slopes to the little Mont Frety inn 
(i-ij hr. from the Col). Hence the 
path zigzags down the mountain-side 
by a rather roundabout route, and in 
about J hr. gains the level of the 
Italian Val Ferret, just above the 
village of Entreves, about 2 m. by 
char road from Courmayeur. 

More than one fatal accident has 
occurred on the route of the Col du 
Geant, but the most memorable was 
that in i860, by which three English 
travellers and Frederic Tairraz, one 
of their guides, lost their lives. This 
mishap was caused by a slip about 
J hr. below the Col, on the Cour- 
mayeur side, in the steep couloir, 



366 PENNINE ALPS. § 16. MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



then filled with fresh snow, on the 
E. side of the ridge by which the 
usual track, above described, de- 
scends. The travellers were fatigued 
and inexperienced ; the guides left the 
rock ridge for the slippery snow 
couloir, and further held in one hand 
the rope by which their travellers 
were attached. It is now agreed on 
all hands that three guides, in a pro- 
perly roped party, knowing how to 
use an axe, could easily check the 
slip of three travellers on an even 
steeper slope than that on which this 
misfortune happened. 

The Col de Triolet (3,691 m., 
12,110 ft. ) was crossed in 1864 by 
Messrs. Adams- Reilly and Whymper. 
From the Montenvers the route lies 
past the Jar din, then up the small 
Courtes glacier to the pass (6§ hrs. ) 
This little glacier often has two great 
crevasses running right across it. 
Sometimes these may be turned by 
keeping well to the 1. under the 
wall of the Courtes, and always by 
climbing up the small glacier arm on 
the r. of the rocks on the 1. bank 
of the glacier, these rocks being then 
crossed to the upper part of the 
glacier, above the great crevasses. 
* The descent commences with some 
steep and firm rocks for \ hr., fol- 
lowed by some steep slopes of neve, cut 
across by crevasses, and leading down 
to the N. branch of the Triolet glacier. 
The glacier is easy until the com- 
mencement of the icefall, when it must 
be quitted for the moraine on the 1. 
bank ' (A. A.-R., revised). In \ hr. 
more the Club hut (2,584 m., 
8,478 ft.) is reached (if hr. from the 
pass), but it is not easily seen, as it 
lies a little to the 1. of the direct 
route, under a pointed overhanging 
rock at the head of a great grass and 
rock couloir. By this couloir the 
Val Ferret may be reached in about 
I hr. from the hut, and 2§ hrs. more 
suffice to gain Courmayeur by the 
path from the Col Ferret. 

In 1865 another pass was crossed 
a little to the S. of that just described. 
This is the Col de Talefre (11,430 ft. ), 



first traversed by Mr. Whymper 
with Christian Aimer and Franz 
Biener. It lies about half-way be- 
tween the Aiguille de Triolet and the 
Aiguille de Talefre. From the 
Jardin it is necessary to bear S.E. , 
and make for a very noticeable bent 
couloir. It is much exposed to fall- 
ing stones, but the rocks on its r. bank 
give access to the pass, reached in 
about 5 hrs. from the Montenvers. 
Easy rocks lead down to the Triolet 
glacier (f hr. ), on which the Col de 
Triolet route is soon rejoined. In 
fact, the routes of these two passes 
are for a considerable distance 
scarcely more than \ m. apart. 

A much more attractive pass is the 
Col des Hirondelles (3,465 m. , 
11,369 ft.), between the Petites and 
the Grandes Jorasses, which was first 
crossed, in 1873, by Messrs. Leslie 
Stephen, G. Loppe, T. S. Kennedy, 
and J. A. Garth Marshall, with Jon. 
Fischer, Ulrich Aimer, and H. 
Devouassoud. Mr. Stephen has 
published a delightful narrative of 
the expedition. The traveller look- 
ing from the Montenvers at the grand 
view spread out before him naturally 
thinks that this pass ought to afford 
the shortest way to Italy. ' Indeed,' 
says Mr. Stephen, ' it would be the 
natural route for anybody intending 
to cross the Col du Geant by the 
light of nature. If you would make 
a bee-line from the Montenvers to 
the nearest point of the Italian 
valleys, your route would take you 
straight across this Col, which is as 
obtrusive as the Theodule from 
Zermatt, or the Jungfraujoch from 
the Wengern Alp.' The fanciful 
name is derived from the fact that 
the first party found on the way the 
bodies of twenty poor swallows, which 
had been frozen to death, while try- 
ing to cross the range in this neigh- 
bourhood. 

From the Montenvers the way 
towards the Jardin (Rte. A. Excur- 
sion 5) is followed as far as the junc- 
tion of the Talefre and Leschaux 
i glaciers. The last-named glacier is 



ROUTE E. CHAMONIX TO COURMAYEUR 



367 



then mounted nearly due S. to the 
foot of the wall between the Petites 
and the Grandes Jorasses. A wide 
couloir descends from the Col (which 
is close to the Grandes Jorasses) to 
the glacier. The bergschrund (which 
may give great trouble) at its base 
may be crossed, and the couloir itself 
mounted for a little way till it is 
possible to cross on the 1. to a rocky 
rib between the great couloir and a 
smaller one on the E. (This small 
couloir can be climbed direct.) 
2 hrs. are required to climb from the 
glacier to the pass, which may be 
reached in 6 or hrs. from the 
Montenvers. The view is not nearly 
as fine as that from the Col du 
Geant, but the face of the Grandes 
Jorasses is a splendid sight all the 
way up to the pass. The descent is 
made by the wild Frebouzie glacier, 
and it is well to bear in mind that it 
is scarcely possible to go too far to 
the 1. when descending this glacier. 
The glacier is quitted on the 1. bank, 
and a stony waste at its foot crossed 
before the level of the Val Ferret is 
attained, Courmayeur being reached 
in about 5 hrs. from the pass. 

Such are the most interesting and 
characteristic passes between the 
Montenvers and Courmayeur. The 
routes across the others which have 
been forced over the range at various 
points are, to a great extent, identical 
in part with one or other of those 
described above, and the climbers 
who desire to traverse them will find 
all details in M. Kurz's Guidebook, 
often before mentioned. It may be 
said, however, that the scenery of 
the Brenva glacier, on the Italian 
side of the Col de la Tour Ronde 
(3,645 m., 11,959 ft.), S.W. of the 
peak of that name, 3,792 m. , 
12,441 ft. (which is hence easily 
.attained in 40 min. ), is very fine 
indeed, though it can be more con- 
veniently seen by means of an excur- 
sion from Courmayeur than on the 
traverse of this long and lofty pass. 



Route E. 

CHAMONIX TO COURMAYEUR BY THE 
COL DU BONHOMME. EXCURSIONS 
FROM COURMAYEUR. 

Chamonix to Contamines, 4J-5I hrs. ; 
Contamines to Mottets, hrs. ; 

Mottets to Courmayeur, 5^ hrs. In 
all, 16^-19! hrs. 

Mountaineers bound from Cha- 
monix to Courmayeur will, no doubt, 
in favourable weather traverse the 
range by one of the glacier passes 
described in Rtes. D, F, G, L, or M. 
Less adventurous travellers, however, 
desiring to avoid the difficulties and 
dangers of the High Alps, will make a 
long circuit (taking two or three 
days), either round the N.E. end of 
the range by Champex (Rte. I) or 
the S.W. extremity of the chain. 
The latter way is that described in 
the present Route, and is usually 
known as the ' Tour of Mont Blanc' 
It is practicable for mules all the way, 
and in part (as far as Contamines) 
even for carriages. It is hence often 
made by ladies, who sleep at Conta- 
mines and Nant Borrant. Active 
pedestrians may accomplish the dis- 
tance in two good days' walking, 
sleeping at Nant Borrant, and taking 
the short cut by the Col des Fours. 
Part of the long way is not very 
interesting, but the view from the 
Col de la Seigne, and the descent 
thence through the Allee Blanche, 
will always make that portion of 
the route very attractive to the true 
lover of nature. The path over the 
Col du Bonhomme has been so much 
improved that in moderately good 
weather a guide is not necessary ; 
but when fresh snow has fallen, 
and the clouds lie low on the pass, 
it is almost impossible for any one 
(save a trained mountaineer, with 
good maps) not possessing minute 
local knowledge to find the true way, 
It is far better to make the journey in 
the direction here described than in 
the opposite sense. 

The two chief places on the journey 



368 PENNINE ALPS. § 16. MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



are Cont amines and Mottets, each of 
which may be reached by several 
different ways, the unusual routes 
being here but briefly indicated. 

Contamines may be gained from 
Chamonix by four ways at least, three 
of which join at the village of St. 
Gervais, while the fourth is the most 
direct, and that usually taken by those 
making the ' Tour of Mont Blanc' 

I. By St. Gervais. — The easiest 
way is to drive from Chamonix down 
the Geneva road as far as Le Fayet 
(12 m. ), whence another road makes 
a great zigzag and brings the traveller 
in 2§ m. to St. Gervais village, 5J m. 
by road below Contamines. 

A more interesting zvay is to follow 
the same main road down to La Griaz 
(4m.), whence another road (the old 
Geneva road) mounts to Les Hoitches 
(| m.), \\ hr.'s walk from Chamonix. 
A mule path ascends from a hamlet a 
little further along the road, maintains 
first a S.W., then a N.W. direction, 
and leads to the Col de la Foixlaz 
(1,556 m., 5,105ft.) The view hence 
is less commanding and more limited 
than that by the other routes to be 
described. Near this pass there was 
discovered in 1852 a most interesting 
Roman inscription (dating from 
A. D. 74) on a stone built into a fence. 
It fixes the limits between the 
Ceutrones and another tribe (name 
uncertain), thus proving that an old 
Roman road traversed this pass. 
The stone is now preserved at Les 
Plagnes, near Le Fayet. The de- 
scent lies S.W. down pastures past 
Mont Paccard and through forests 
and by steep zigzags over meadows 
direct to the village of St. Gervais, 
which is thus attained in 4J firs, 
from Chamonix. 

Vet a third way is that over the 
Col de Voza (1,675 m -> 5<4°6 ft.) 
The mule path from Les Houches is 
the same as that to the Pavilion 
Bellevue (see below) for 3 hrs., then 
bears r. to the pass {\ hr. ) The 
descent can be made direct to 
Bionnassay, but it is in every way 
better to mount r. to the inn on 



the ridge of the Prarion (J hr. ), 
which commands a view even more 
extensive than that enjoyed from 
the Pavilion Bellevue. The summit 
of the peak of the Prarion (1,968 m., 
6,457 ft.) can be reached in \ hr. 
more, and the view thus further ex- 
tended. From the inn the mule path 
bears to the r. , and by steep 
pastures soon joins that from the 
Col de la Forclaz ; St. Gervais is 
attained by this route in 5J hrs. from 
Chamonix. 

As stated above, the village of St. 
Gervais (817m., 2,680 ft.) may be 
gained by road in 2 \ m. from Le Fayet. 
\ hr. to the N. W. by a steep path, in the 
narrow gorge of the Bon Nant, are 
the Baths of St. Gervais (633 m., 
i 2,077 ft-)j which are only \ m. 
I now from Le Fayet direct by road. 
I They are picturesquely placed, and 
much frequented by French visitors ; 
of the two principal springs one is 
warm and sulphureous, the other 
chalybeate. In the course of the 
night of July 11-12, 1892, a terrific 
stream of ice, mud, and water (the 
result of the bursting of a great accu- 
mulation of water in the small Tete 
I Rousse glacier, on the W. slope of the 
1 Aiguille du Gouter) carried away the 
' Etablissement de Bains (at least the 
two lower buildings), as well as many 
other houses, very many (150) persons 
also perishing. The old buildings at 
the bottom of the gorge have been 
repaired, but the fine new Etablisse- 
ment is \ m. from the entrance to 
this gorge, and the same distance 
from Le Fayet. 

[About 1855 the village of St. 
Gervais was the resort of a band of 
Englishmen, who were occupied in 
forcing a route up Mont Blanc (see 
Rte. B) which should free travellers 
from the extortions of the Chamonix 
tariff. This route, however, has 
never become very popular, though 
still occasionally taken. The chief 
excursion from St. Gervais is the 
ascent of the Mont Joly (2,527 m. , 
8,291 ft.), on the S. A mule 
path mounts direct to the inn 



ROUTE E. CHAMONIX TO COURMAYEUR 369 



at its N. foot, and only 1 hr. 
below the summit, which is gained in 
4 hrs. from St. Gervais, or in rather 
less time from Contamines. The 
descent to Megeve on the N.W. 
(§11. Rte. H) is perfectly easy. The 
view from this mountain is considered 
by some good judges as even finer 
than that obtained from the Brevent. jj 
The road from St. Gervais mounts 
through the Montjoie valley past 
(2 m. ) Bionnay, at the entrance 
of the glen leading to the Bionnas- 
say gl., and the Pavilion Bellevue 
(see below), and by the opening of 
that of Miage (for the pass of that 
name see Rte. G), to (3 \ m.) Con- 
tamines. 

2. By the Pavilion Bellevue. — 

This route leads direct from Les 
Houches to Contamines, and is much 
frequented, as it has also a good mule 
path. 

Les Houches is gained (as under 
1) from Chamonix byroad in i|- hr. 
The path mounts thence almost due 
S. at first, and lies over pastures and 
through woods, with pretty views 
looking back. It rounds the base of 
a spur from the ridge on the S., and 
gradually leaving to the r. the path 
going to the Col de Voza, inclines to 
the 1., so as to gain (2 hrs. from Les 
Houches) the mountain inn called 
Pavilion Bellevue. This is built 
at the W. foot of the Mont 
Lachat (2,111 m., 6,926 ft., ac- 
cessible by grass slopes in J hr. ), in 
a fold of the ridge parallel to, but 
considerably higher than, the Col de 
Voza, as it stands at a height of 
1,781 m., 5,843 ft. (It is the usual 
starting point for the ascent of Mont 
Blanc by the St. Gervais or Aiguille 
du Gouter route — see Rte. B — but this 
is the only high climb that can be made 
hence.) The view of the valley of 
Chamonix and of the chain of Mont 
Blanc is a counterpart to that from 
the Col de Balme, at the other end of 
the valley (Rte. H), but is not as fine, 
for the Dome du Gouter conceals the 
highest part of Mont Blanc himself. 
The mule path (for a short cut see 
I. 



below) descends by grass slopes to 
the hamlet of Bionnassay (J hr. ), and 
thence runs along the r. bank of 
the torrent to Bionnay (J hr.), 3^ m. 
from Contamines by the carriage, 
road from St. Gervais (see above), 
Contamines being thus gained in 
5 1 hrs.' walking from Chamonix. On 
the descent towards Bionnassay the 
view is bounded by the Mont Joly in 
front, with the church of St. Nicolas 
de Veroce at its base, while to the 

I. the ridge extending from the 
Aiguille de Bionnassay to the Col de 
Tricot, on the opposite side of the fine 
Bionnassay glacier, is the most con- 
spicuous object in view. 

[If bound for the Col or chalets de 
Miage (Rte. G) a traveller should from 
the Pavilion follow at first the track 
up the Mont Lachat, then descend 
to and cross the Bionnassay gl., 
whence a grassy glen leads up to the 
Col de Tricot (2,133 m -> 6,998 ft.), 
40 min. above the Miage chalets, 
which are 2 J hrs. from the Pavilion. "J 

A pedestrian may reach Con- 
tamines in 2§ hrs. from the 
Pavilion by keeping to the 1. a little 
before reaching the hamlet of Bion- 
nassay, crossing the torrent by a 
wooden bridge, a little below the 
spot where it issues from the glacier, 
and then going across meadows past 
Champel to La Villette, joining the 
high road just below those huts. 

Contamines (1,197 m., 3,927 ft.) 
lies at the W. base of the Mont Joly 
(2,527 m., 8,291 ft.), which may be 
thence ascended in 4 hrs. or less. 
In the opposite direction is the 
Frasse glacier (also called Arman- 
cettes gl.), lying in a grand amphi- 
theatre crowned by the Dome de 
Miage (3,688 m., 12,100 ft.), and 
the Aiguille de Ber anger (3,431 m. , 

II, 257 ft.), but now shrunk within 
dimensions apparently much smaller 
than its former limits. Over it lies 
the way by the Col de Be ranger to the 
Trelatete glacier, either of the above- 
named peaks being easily reached from 
the pass. (For this excursion and 
the passes from the Trelatete glacier, 

3 B 



37o PENNINE ALPS. § 16. MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



especially the short cut by the Col du 
Mont Tondu, see Rte. F. ) 

The char road from Contamines 
follows the r. bank of the Bon 
Nant, but must be left in f hr. where 
it crosses to the sanctuary of Notre 
Dame de la Gorge, frequented in 
August by many pilgrims. The 
Bonhomme mule path now" mounts a 
steep and rough slope, crosses the 
stream by a stone bridge, and, 
traversing an Alpine pasture, reaches 
the chalets of Nant Borrant 
(1,457 nv, 4,780 ft.), if hr. from 
Contamines. The little mountain inn 
here is the ordinary halting place for 
those who spend one night only on 
the way from Chamonix to Cour- 
mayeur. There is a fine fall of the 
Bont Nant below the stone bridge, 
and a still finer one, rather higher, on 
the branch of the same stream coming 
from the Trelatete glacier, which is in 
sight from Nant Borrant. 

Above Nant Borrant the path 
traverses pastures to the inn of La 
Balme (J hr. ) 

[Hence a path mounts W. across 
the Enclave de la Fenetre, 2,263'm. , 
7,425 ft., which leads by the Haute 
Luce glen to Beaufort — § 11. Rte. I.J 

Here the massive rock tower called 
the Tete du Bonhonune (2,593 m. , 8,507 
ft. ) comes into view, and to the 1. the 
similar but rather lower summit 
known as the Femme du Bonhomme. 
The track now mounts through a 
narrow strait in the valley, and then, 
passing some vast moraines of ancient 
glaciers, ascends amid debris to the 
circular pasture basin of the Plan 
Jovet (j hr. ) 

[Above it on the E. are the 
lakes and chalets of Mont Jovet, 
past which lies the way to the Col 
d'Enclave (2,686 m., 8,813 ft.), 
between the Mont Tondu and the 
Tete d* Enclave. Steep and very 
wearisome slopes of stones give 
access to the pass, which commands 
but a limited view, so that, though but 
i\ hrs. are required from Plan Jovet 
to Mottets, the Col des Fours is to be 
preferred as a short cut, by reason of 



the grand view from the Pointe des 
Fours. )3 

Having now passed beyond the 
region of tree vegetation, the 
valley assumes a wilder and sterner 
aspect. A short but steep ascent 
leads to another step in the valley, a 
plateau called (as early as 1663) the 
Flan des Dames, 2,056 m., 6,746 ft. 
(^ hr.), where a large pile of 
stones marks a spot consecrated by 
a tradition of a great lady and her 
suite, who all perished in a snow 
storm. Another ascent, longer than 
the last, leads in about 40 min. to 
what appears to be the desired pass ; 
but on reaching the summit (where 
there is a stone shelter hut), 2,340 m. , 
7,678 ft. (3f hrs. from Contamines), 
which lies between the Tete du 
Bonhomme and the ridge of Les 
Bancs (2,812 m., 9,226 ft.), it is 
seen that this pass crosses the water- 
shed between the Arve and the 
Doron de Beaufort, and leads W. by 
the Col de la Satice (2,012 m., 
6,601 ft.) through the Gitte glen to 
Beaufort (§11. Rte. K. 1). It is still a 
distance of about 40 min. across 
barren stony slopes (on which a S.E. 
direction must be kept), usually 
flecked with snow, to the true pass. 
This portion of the route is much 
exposed to storms, and in threatening 
weather, or with fresh snow, it is 
highly imprudent for the ordinary 
traveller to pass here without a guide. 
The fate of two Englishmen who 
perished here in a snow storm in 
September 1830 is still quoted as a 
warning to travellers. 

The true Col du Bonhomme (also 
called Croix du Bonhomme, from 
the great wooden cross which 
marks it), 2,483 m., 8,147 ft. 
(stone shelter hut), is the watershed 
between the basin of the Doron and 
that of the Isere. The view is not 
as extensive as might be expected, 
but though Mont Blanc is shut out 
by the heights on the 1. of the Col, 
the superb peak (the second highest 
in the Tarentaise) of the Mont Pourri 
(3,788 m., 12,428 ft.) is full in sight. 



ROUTE E. CHAMONIX TO COURMAYEUR 



37i 



The passage from the Col du Bon- 1 
homme (which, as observed above, 
divides the Doron and Isere basins) 
to the Allee Blanche or the valley of 
the Dora Baltea involves a great ! 
detour. The long gorge which opens \ 
out in the distance on the S. side of | 
the pass leads from Chapieux, by a 
char road, in 3 J- hrs. (9 m. ) to the 
town of Bourg St. Maurice, in the 
Tarentaise, or upper valley of the j 
Isere (§ 11. Rte. K). At Chapieux, j 
3,000 ft. below the Col, it is joined 
at an acute angle by the stream : 
which flows from the W. side of 
the Col de la Seigne to the Isere. 
The mule track descends steeply on 
the S. to Chapieux, 1,509 m. , I 
4,951 ft. (if hr. ), then reascends in 
a N.E. direction through a barren 
and dreary glen, the least interesting 
part of the whole ' Tour of Mont 
Blanc, 'to Mottets, 1,898 m., 6,227 ft. 
( 2 hrs. ) But a foot path leads from 
the Col du Bonhomme by the Col 
des Fours (stone shelter hut) to Mottets 
direct without passing by Chapieux, 
and the pedestrian should not fail to 
take this short cut. This pass is 
2,710 m. (8,891 ft.) in height, and in a 
few minutes the Pointe des Fours 
(2,719 m., 8,921 ft.), on the S., may 
be reached by skirting its base on 
the r. It commands a remarkable 
view of the S.W. side of the range of 
Mont Blanc. The Col des Fours 
takes 2-2J- hrs. from the Bonhomme 
to Mottets, thus saving over an hour 
on the journey between those two | 
places. The mule track is rejoined 
at the hamlet of Les Glaciers, or La j 
Ville, I hr. below Mottets. 

A steady ascent of ij- hr. from j 
Mottets brings the traveller to the j 
summit of the Col de la Seigne I 
(2,512 m., 8,242 ft.), where there is 
a stone shelter hut. Here, having 
toiled for the preceding 5 or 6 hrs. 
over a fatiguing and not very in- 
teresting way, he is rewarded by a 
view of extraordinary grandeur along 
the S.E. side of the range of Mont 
Blanc. The Italian counterpart of 
the valley of Chamonix is undoubtedly 



more imposing and impressive than 
its Savoyard rival. The S.E. side of 
the Mont Blanc range includes, be- 
sides the actual summit, most of the 
highest secondary peaks, and be- 
tween them there is but one opening, 
the Col de Miage, which can be con- 
sidered as a break in the continuity 
of the ridge. To the 1. of the 
spectator is the Aiguille des Glaciers 
(3,834 m., 12,579 ft.), and beyond it 
the Aiguille de Trelatete (3,911 m. r 
12,832 ft.) This is followed by the 
wide opening through which the 
Italian Miage gl. descends into the 
valley, and then the eye rests upon 
the central mass of Mont Blanc, here 
seen as a dome of snow, sustained by 
three enormous buttresses of rock. 
The nearest of these is the Mont 
Brouillard (4,053 m. , 13,298 ft.) ; 
beyond this is the Chdtelet ridge, be- 
tween the Brouillard and Fresnay 
glaciers, and the third is crowned by 
the Aiguilles Blanche and Noire de 
Peteret (4,109 m., 13,482 ft., and 
3,780 m., 12,402 ft.), granite pin- 
nacles of the boldest form, somewhat 
more detached than the others from 
the main mass ; they long remain 
prominent among the most striking, 
objects in view throughout the de- 
scent to Courmayeur. At the end of 
the long vista is the Col Ferret, and 
beyond it rise the snowy peaks of the 
Velan and the Comb in. To the r. the 
ranges of the Crammont and of the 
Mont de la Saxe, broken by the gap 
through which the Dora Baltea 
escapes to the S.E., run parallel to 
the greater chain of Mont Blanc. 
The valley between these ranges, 
whose whole length now extends at 
the traveller's feet, is properly called 
i La Lex Blanche,' but it seems now 
impossible to change the received 
spelling, adopted by modern writers 
in ignorance of the true etymology. 
(See note to the Introduction to 
this §.) 

In descending from the Col de la 
Seigne several rare plants may be 
gathered, and, amongst others, 
Ranunculus parnassifolius. Lower 

B B 2 



372 PENNINE ALPS. § 16. 



MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



down Hugueninia tanacetifolia and 
Achillea macrophylla are rather 
common. 

[From the Col a path leads 
S.E. to the Col des Chavannes 
(2,606 m., 8,550 ft.) in 1 hr., whence 
the Pointe de Lechaud (3,127 m. , 
10,260 ft.) can be climbed in 2 hrs. ; 
from the summit there is a difficult 
direct descent to Mottets. From the 
Col des Chavannes a walk of 2 \ hrs. 
down the glen of the same name 
leads to La Tkuille, on the Little St. 
Bernard road, § 14. Rte. G.] 

About J hr. below the Col de la 
S eigne are the first huts, the Upper 
Allee Blanche huts (2,205 m -j 
7,235 ft.) Having left on the 1. 
hand the Estellette gl. , the more 
considerable Alice Blanche gl. 
now comes into view. Another 
hour leads down to the level of 
the Lac de Combal (1.940 m., 
6,365 ft. ) This lake is held back by 
a massive embankment of consider- 
able antiquity, with sluices which 
regulate the outflow of the stream 
(thus enabling the natives to block 
the valley on the approach of an 
enemy), the principal source of the 
Dora Baltea. 

£For the track hence to Cour- 
mayeur by the Col de Checouri 
see the Excursions from Courmayeur, 
below, and for that to La 
Thuille, 5 hrs. by the Col du 
Baracon, see below under Mont 
Favre.] 

Below the embankment the mule 
track crosses to the 1. bank of 
the Dora and continues for nearly 
an hour between the stream and 
the enormous moraine by which 
the Miage gl. is concealed from 
view. This great glacier, sadly re- 
duced from its former proportions, 
no longer stretches out so as nearly 
to cross the valley ; it is only when 
the path has recrossed the stream, 
and entered upon the pastures near 
the mountain inn called the Cantine 
de la Visaille (1,653 m., 5,423 ft.), 
below its lower extremity, that it 
comes fully into view. 



£This inn is passed by the usual 
route from Courmayeur up Mont 
Blanc, Rte. B. 3, and that to the 
Col de Miage. Rte, G. It is the 
most convenient starting point for the 
ascent of the Aiguille de Trelatitt 
(3,911 m., 12,832 ft.), which may 
hence be attained in 8| hrs. by 
the S.E. ridge. This peak was 
first climbed, and by this route, in 
1864 by Messrs. Adams-Reilly and 
E. Whymper.J 

The portion of the Allee Blanche 
extending hence to Entreves is called 
also Val Veni. The pine forests which 
now clothe the slopes on the S. side 
of the valley, and the more luxuriant 
vegetation, present an agreeable con- 
trast to the wild and somewhat dreary 
character of the scenery throughout 
the long journey from Nant Borrant. 
Advancing down the valley, and 
passing opposite the Aiguille Noire de 
Peteret, the beautiful Brenva glacier 
comes into view. It is now, owing 
to having greatly shrunk, not so well 
worth examination as of old, but is 
briefly noticed below among the 
excursions from Courmayeur. At the 
point where this glacier once stretched 
across the valley, bridging the 
stream, and abutting against the 
rocks on the S. side, the path passes 
by the Chapel of Notre Dame de 
Berrier (or de la Guerison), a sanc- 
tuary much frequented by the 
peasants of Courmayeur. The path 
then winds round the base of the 
Mont Chetif, and reaches the spot 
where the Dora, now grown to a 
river, after uniting in the two torrents 
that descend from the Col de la 
Seigne and the Col Ferret the drain- 
age of at least twenty glaciers, 
escapes through the portal opened to 
! the S. between the Mont Chetif and 
the Mont de la Saxe. After crossing 
the Dora by a wooden bridge the 
path reaches the Baths of La Saxe, 
near which is the Hotel du Mont 
Blanc, commanding a finer view than 
Courmayeur, and nearer most of the 
objects that may be visited thence. 
About 1 m. from the Baths (4 hrs. ? 



ROUTE E. EXCURSIONS FROM COURMAYEUR 



steady walking from the Col de la 
Seigne) is Courmayeur. 

This is a large village, at a 
height of 1,224 m -5 4,016 ft., 
much frequented in summer by 
visitors from Turin, who seek here 
mountain air, fine scenery, or the 
mineral waters, several springs of 
which exist near the village. Some 
English travellers have here dis- 
covered a rival to Chamonix. 
Though higher by 183 m. (600 ft.) 
than that village the climate is 
considerably warmer, but if in fine 
weather the days are hot the nights 
are always cool. Several of the 
excursions within easy reach may 
rival, if they do not excel, those 
equally accessible from Chamonix, 
and for a panoramic view of the 
Mont Blanc range the Crammont 
may well dispute precedence with 
the Brevent ; but, owing to the 
peculiar conformation of that range, 
already alluded to, it is far more 
difficult from this side to gain access 
to the upper snow region, and 
aspiring mountaineers will probably 
continue to look on Chamonix and 
its neighbourhood as the best head- 
quarters for the explorer of the chain 
of Mont Blanc. There have been 
some very good guides at Cour- 
mayeur, but all the best known are 
now dead. 

Courmayeur stands at the natural 
termination of the Val d'Aosta, 
which, between Pre St. Didier and 
Entreves, is called Val d' Entreves, 
and the only easy access to it is by 
the carriage road from Aosta (21 m., 
traversed by the diligences in 5 hrs. 
up and 4 hrs. down : see § 14. Rte. G). 
The last 2 m. from Pre St. Didier 
are uphill, so that a pedestrian loses 
no time. The immediate neighbour- 
hood of Courmayeur, not to speak of 
the surrounding mountains, produces 
some interesting plants, such as 
Sisymbrium altissimum, Silene 
vallesia, Scutellaria alpina,, &c. 

In appreciating the advantages and 
drawbacks of Courmayeur as head- 
quarters for travellers, it is right to 



say that the view from the village is 
far more limited than from Chamonix. 
The summit of Mont Blanc is con- 
cealed by the comparatively insig- 
nificant Mont Chetif (the highest 
point is not even visible from the 
Crammont), while none of the higher 
peaks, save the Aiguille du Geant, 
are in sight from Courmayeur. 

In enumerating the chief excur- 
sions and ascents to be made from 
Courmayeur it may be observed that 
the district around it has been far less 
thoroughly explored than the neigh- 
bourhood of Chamonix, so that an 
active mountaineer may, doubtless, 
find out for himself many interesting, 
though little known, expeditions. 
The ' Guida ' of Signori Vaccarone 
and Bobba should be consulted, while 
Signor G. Brocherel's ' Guida Illus- 
trata di Courmayeur e Dintorni ' 
I (1895) contains much useful infor- 
mation. 

I. Glacier de la Brenva. — This 
beautiful glacier descends from the 
uppermost shelves and plateaux of 
Mont Blanc directly to the Allee 
Blanche. It is known to have ad- 
vanced very much at the beginning of 
this century, and attained its maxi- 
mum about 1 81 8 or 18 19, for in the 
latter year the existing chapel of 
N. D. de Berrier (see above) was 
taken down, as the ice thrust up 
great boulders towards the chapel, 
and endangered its position, so that 
it was rebuilt higher up in 1821. 
Later the ice stream retired some 
way, but in 1846 came forward again. 
It has since shrunk up very much, so 
that in 1878 it was estimated that it 
was 1,000 m. (3,281 ft.) higher up 
the mountain than in 1 846, though since 
that time it is reported to have ad- 
vanced some distance. (See the map 
in no. 45 of the 4 Bollettino ' of the 
Italian Alpine Club, and accompany- 
ing article, as well as that in no. 50 
of the same periodical. ) The glacier 
thus no longer bars the valley, giving 
passage to the torrent through a vault 
under the ice, but a walk may well 
be taken to its lower portion. A mule 



374 PENNINE ALPS. § 16. MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



path leads through Entreves and 
along the moraine on the 1. bank to a 
small inn ( I J hr. ) The glacier may 
be traversed diagonally towards the 
base of the Aiguille Noire de Peteret, 
which towers, in the most defiant 
fashion, above the middle region of 
the glacier. It is possible, and well 
worth the trouble, to approach very 
near its base, and beautiful as are 
many of the Chamonix Aiguilles none 
for grandeur surpass this. On its 
ledges, safe from the approach of 
human foot, the writer (j. B. ) has 
counted thirty-seven chamois in a 
single herd. The best way to com- 
plete the excursion is to traverse the | 
huge r. moraine, which formerly 
crossed the valley like an enormous 
railway embankment, at a point 
higher up where it will give less j 
trouble, and then to descend an easy j 
slope amid clumps of pines past the | 
Perttid huts, beyond which a bridge | 
leads over the stream to the Col de j 
la Seigne track, some way above the j 
Chapel of N. Dame. (4 hrs. suffice i 
for the round from Courmayeur and j 
back. ) Good walkers are strongly j 
recommended to mount the steep and ; 
smooth rocks on the 1. bank of the 
glacier to a point above the great 
lower icefall, so as to enjoy the mag- 
nificent ice scenery of the upper part 
of the glacier. 

2. Col de ChScouri and Miage 
Glacier. — This is a very fine and 
easy round. The Dora is crossed 
opposite Courmayeur, and then a 
mule path passes through Dollone, 
and soon mounts the 1. side of the 
ravine by steep zigzags to a little 
oratory perched on a rock. The way 
then lies over gently sloping pastures 
to the Col, 1,960 m. , 6,431 ft. 
(2 hrs.), between the Mont Chetif 
and the Crammont. Hence, or better 
still from a rock to the r. , there is a 
noble view of Mont Blanc and the 
Al lee Blanche. A mule path leads 
S.W. along the mountain slope for a 
long distance, and commands superb 
views of Mont Blanc and the great 
glaciers opposite, especially of that of | 



the Miage, which is not otherwise well 
seen. It reaches the valley not far 
from the Lac de Combal (2J hrs. 
from the Col). The Miage gl. may 
be easily crossed (it is worth while to 
walk some way up it, to enjoy the 
grand surrounding scenery), the 
'Jardin du Miage,' a grassy and 
wooded mound between two branches 
of the huge glacier, may be visited, 
and the Col de la Seigne path joined 
in (20 min. ) by a bridge near the Can- 
tine de la Visaille. 

3. The Crammont. — The best 
known summit of the range separat- 
ing the Allee Blanche from the valley 
of the Little St. Bernard is the 
Crammont (corrupted from Grand 
Mont), 2,737 m., 8,980 ft. Its 
position, exactly opposite the summit 
of Mont Blanc, is a counterpart of 
that of the Brevent in the valley of 
Chamonix. The view of Mont 
Blanc (though the highest tip is not 
seen) is at least as fine, and in addi- 
tion the panorama includes the chief 
peaks of the Pennine and Graian 
Alps. The usual way up it requires 
a considerable detour, and is long 
(4J-5 hrs. ), but not very fatiguing, 
though it is well to start very early, so 
as to avoid the heat of the sun during 
the ascent, and to gain time for a 
thorough enjoyment of the scenery. 
Mules may be taken to within 20 min. 
of the top, and a guide is not 
required. It is necessary to com- 
mence this expedition in a manner 
always distasteful to the mountaineer, 
by descending the Aosta high road as 
far as Pre St. Didier (2 m. ) The 
Little St. Bernard road (§ 14. Rte. G) 
is then followed for J hr. to the 
entrance of the first tunnel, where the 
mule path strikes off to the r. , 
and mounts gradually for 3 hrs., 
passing several chalets. On reaching 
the limit of the larch, which is here 
at 6,800 ft., the ascent lies chiefly up 
rather steep, parched slopes of grass, 
not very troublesome to mount, but 
requiring caution on the descent. 
Mules halt at the base of the last 
steep grassy slope. 4 hrs. suffice from 



ROUTE E. EXCURSION; 



S FROM COURMAYEUR 



375 



Pre St. Didier to attain the summit, 
consisting of slightly inclined slabs of 
rock, which on the side facing Mont 
Blanc project a little beyond the edge 
of the precipitous face of the moun- 
tain. Close to the summit is the 
Saussure Club Hut, built by the 
Aostan Section of the Italian Alpine 
Club, and named in honour of the 
savant who, by his two visits to the 
peak (1774 and 1778). made known 
its admirable position as a panoramic 
point of the first order. The view 
has been deservedly celebrated by all 
travellers who have been fortunate 
enough to reach the summit in 
favourable weather. If it be allow- 
able to note a defect in the presence 
of a scene so magnificent, it may be 
said that the Mont Chetif and a 
portion of the lower portion of the 
Crammont itself prevent the eye from 
reaching the bottom of the Allee 
Blanche, and thus, though the height 
is considerably greater than that 
of the Brevent or of the Mont 
Chetif, the range of Mont Blanc is 
not here seen to spring out of a valley 
relatively so deep or so well defined. 

A traveller proposing to take the 
Crammont on the way over the Little 
St. Bernard should on the way 
down bear r. from the Chant on huts, 
above the forest, by a good mule path, 
which attains the high road at the 
village of Elevaz, beyond the second 
tunnel. 

There is a direct way up the peak 
from Courmayeur, for pedestrians 
only, and taking 4 hrs. up. It passes 
by the Vittoria spring, and the huts 
of Praleuy and of Arp (lower and 
higher), whence zigzags bring the 
climber to the base of the steep 
rocky N. face of the Crammont ; this 
is scaled by an ascent of an hour or 
less, there being a little path con- 
structed by the Courmayeur guides. 

4. The Mont Chetif. — This point, 
also called Mojzt Dollone, and Pain de 
Sucre (2,343 m., 7,687 ft.), is the 
dome-shaped, isolated eminence 
which is conspicuous from Cour- 
mayeur, because it shuts out the view 



of the main mass of Mont Blanc. 
The Col de Checouri mule path 
(2. above) is followed nearly to that 
pass. Thence less than an hour 
(3 hrs. in all from Courmayeur) suf- 
fices to gain the summit, by keep- 
ing to the r. , passing below some 
chalets, and going up grass and 
stones. The view is noble, and is 
nearly equal to that from the Cram- 
mont, while the summit is far easier 
of access. 

5. The Mont de la Saxe. — This 
point rises N.E. of Courmayeur, and 
commands a view of the Grandes 
Jorasses, and its neighbours, which 
is even superior to that from the 
Crammont. It is a long ridge, the 
highest undulation in which is 
2,358 m. (7,737 ft.) A mule path 
leads to the summit in 2-J hrs., 
ascending by the Col Ferret path to 
some chalets, and then mounting by 
the N. side past more chalets. 
Pedestrians save time by going a little 
way up the Chapy glen, and then 
mounting the S. slope of the moun- 
tain. By following the ridge in a 
N.E. direction the point called Testa 
Bernarda (2,534 m., 8,314 ft. ) may 
be attained in an hour, and an even 
nobler view obtained. 

6. The Mont Cor/net. — This sum- 
mit (2,476 m. , 8,124 ft. ) lies E. of 
Courmayeur, and is in position the 
counterpart of the Crammont. It 
may be reached in 3 hrs. by its W. 
slope, mules going as far as the 
Tirecome chalets, beyond which are 
easy grass and rock slopes. It is easy 
to descend to Morgex, on the S.E. 

7. Col du Geant. — This pass leads 
over to Chamonix, and has been 
already described in Rte. D. Those 
who do not intend crossing it may 
make an extremely interesting ex- 
cursion to the summit (4J hrs. ), re- 
turning in the afternoon. Even if 
the Mont Frety inn (2 hrs. ) only is 
visited the excursion is worth 
making. 

Among the easier ascents which 
may be made from Courmayeur are 
those of the Grande Rochere ( 3, 326 m. , 



376 PENNINE ALPS. § 16. MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



10,913 ft.) and of the Mont Favre I 
(3,259 m., 10,693 ft-) The former 
is the highest summit in the tangled 
ranges between Courmayeur and the 
Great St. Bernard, and may be 
climbed on the way from one of these ; 
places to the other (§ 18. Rte. B). 
It is reached from Courmayeur 
(? 8 firs. ) either by the Cols de 
Chapy and de Chambave, or by 
Morgex and the long Planavalle 
glen, and commands a most magnifi- 
cent view. The Mont Fav?x (also 
called Berrier Blanc) is attained by 
way of the Lac de Combal and the 
Col du Bar aeon (from remains of 
old redoubts on the summit )j or du 
Berrier Blanc (2, 744m. , 9,003 ft. ), on 
its N.W. — there is now a new mule 
path from Courmayeur to this pass, ; 
which traverses the Cols de l'Arp and 
de Youla — whence it is necessary 
to descend \ hr, before attacking the ; 
mountain by its W. side (5 hrs. up 
from the Lac de Combal, or 8 hrs. 
from Courmayeur). The summit can 
be taken on the way to the Little St k 
Bernard, as the track from the Col 
descends direct to La Thuille. The 
local name is Berrier Blanc ; the 
other was given to the point after it 
had been ascended by the celebrated 
geologist, M. Alphonse Favre, of 
Geneva* Possibly since it has been 
covered with a network of ropes the 
Aiguille du Geant (4,014 m., 
13,170 ft.) may be counted among j 
the easier ascents from Courmayeur, j 
which it dominates (see Rte. 
C). The Tour Konde (3,792 m., j 
12,441 ft.) may be also climbed from ! 
the Col du Geant (3 hrs.) by the 
easy rocks of its E. or N.E. ridges. 
From the peak it is easy to go down 
to the Col de la Tour Ronde j 
(3,645 m., 11,959 ft.), on the S.W., 
and to descend thence to Cour- 
mayeur by a branch of the Brenva 
gl., the ice scenery being magnifi- 
cent, but the way not always easy. 
For the ascent of the Aiguille de 
Trelatete (3,911 m., 12,832 ft.), 
from the Cantine de la Visaille, see 
above in the description of the Col j 



de la Seigne, and for that of the 
Mont Dolent, 3,823 m., 12,543 ft. 
(strongly recommended), from the 
Pre de Bar chalets or the Triolet 
Club hut, see Rtes. K and L. The 
routes from Courmayeur up Mont 
Blanc are described in Rte. B. 3. and 
the cross country tracks to the Great 
St. Bernard or to Bourg St. Pierre 
in § 18. Rtes. B and C. 

Brief mention only can here be 
made of the principal very difficult 
and dangerous climbs in the neigh- 
bourhood of Courmayeur, the reader 
being referred for full details to M. 
Kurz's Guidebook, already cited in 
the Introduction to this Section. 
The Grandes Jorasses (4,205 m., 
13,797 ft.), on the N.E. of Cour- 
mayeur, may be ascended in 6 hrs. 
from the Club hut, itself 5 hrs. from 
Courmayeur. A great couloir must 
be crossed on the way, in which, if 
the snow is in bad condition, there 
is considerable danger of avalanches. 
The W. and lower (by 9 m., 30 ft.) 
point was first attained in 1865 by 
Mr. E. Whymper ; the E. and higher, 
first by Mr. Horace Walker in 1868. 
The remarkable needle (mentioned 
above) called the Aiguille Noire de 
Peteret (3,780 m. , 12,402 ft.), on the 
N.W. of Courmayeur, can be reached 
in 5 hrs. from a bivouac at a spot 
called the ' Fauteuil des Allemands ' 
(4 hrs. from Courmayeur), but it is a 
difficult rock climb, and a couloir 
must be passed in which stones 
frequently fall, and cannot possibly 
be avoided. The first ascent was 
made in 1877 by Lord Wentworth 
(now the Earl of Lovelace). N.W. of 
the last-named peak, and on the same 
great ridge, is the Aiguille Blanche 
de Peteret (4,109 m., 13,482 ft.) It 
is best gained from the depression on 
the N.W., which is on Mr. Eccles' 
route up Mont Blanc (see Rte. B. 3), 
and is only to be reached by a very 
long and difficult round from Cour- 
mayeur by the Brouillard and Fresnay 
glaciers. The summit was first at- 
tained (and by this route) in 1885 by 
Mr. (now Sir) H. Seymour King. 



ROUTE F. CONTAMINES TO COURMAYEUR 



377 



In 1893 Dr. Giissfeldt effected an 
even more difficult and dangerous 
route up the peak, by way of its pre- 
cipitous E. face above the Brenva 
glacier, an expedition which is not 
likely to be often repeated, and 
which certainly cannot be recom- 
mended. 



Route F. 

CONTAMINES TO COURMAYEUR BY 
THE TRELATETE GLACIER. 

The great Glacier of Trelatete, at 
the S.W. end of the chain of Mont 
Blanc, balances that of Trient, at the 
N. extremity of the same range. The 
two glaciers, therefore, have this point 
in common, that it is possible to 
traverse them from N. to S., while a 
double passage across the two ridges 
that bound each enables a traveller 
to make what is a short cut in point 
of distance, and thus avoid a long 
circuit round their base. Thus the 
Col de Beranger and the Col du 
Mont Tondu in the case of the Tre- 
latete gl. answer to the Col du 
Tour, and either the Col du Trient or 
the Col d'Orny (for the Orny gl. 
is but an outflow of the Trient pla- 
teau) in the case of the Trient g]. 
But the Trelatete gl. has been 
much less visited than its N. rival. 
The most convenient spot for ex- 
ploring this glacier is the little inn 
called the Pavilion de Trelatete 
(1,976 m., 6,483 ft.), on the N. 
•bank of the gl., 2 firs, distant 
by mule path from Contamines. (It 
may also be gained from Contamines 
by way of the Frasse gl. and the Col 
de Beranger (3,369 m. , 11,054 ft.) to 
the Trelatete glacier, this route having 
the advantage that the Dome de 
Miage may be climbed on the way to 
or from Contamines. ) 

The ascents most to be recom- 



[ mended round the Trelatete gl. 
are those of the Aiguille de Beranger 
(3.431 m., 11,257 ft.) and of the 
DS?ne de Miage (3,688 m. , 12, 100 ft. ) 
The former summit may be reached, 
even by ladies accustomed to walking, 
in 417 hrs. from the Pavilion by the 
gentle snow slopes of its S. face. 
The view is, however, even finer 
from the higher Dome de Miage, 
best gained in I hr. from the Col de 
Beranger by its S. ridge ; if coming 
from the Pavilion it is necessary from 
the Trelatete gl. to mount a snowy 
gully which leads to that ridge, 
J- hr. above the depression of the Col ; 
but if approaching the Col by the 
Frasse gl. it is best to climb up 
• from that gl. by a rock ridge 
which leads almost direct to the sum- 
mit. The highest summit of the 
Aiguille de Trelatete (3,911 m., 
12,832 ft.) is most conveniently 
attacked from the side of the Allee 
Blanche, but the Tete Cai-ree (3,752m., 
12,310 ft. ) may be ascended from the 
Pavilion in 6 hrs. by the Trelatete 
gl. and the snow arete leading 
up from the Col about to be men- 
tioned. The view thence is superb. 
Part of it may be enjoyed by mount- 
ing (no difficulty) the entire length of 
j the Trelatete gl. to the pass at its 
' head, called the Col (dit) Infi'a?!- 
chissable, 3,345 m., 10,975 ft. (4 hrs. ) 
(hence up the Tete Car?'ee in 2 hrs.), 
which commands a wonderful view of 
the W. face of Mont Blanc, streaming 
with glaciers, and seen above the 
deep hollow of the Italian Miage 
gl. (The descent to that gl. from 
the Col lies over very rotten rocks, 
exposed to falling stones, and passes 
by some abandoned miners' huts, 
but it is believed that the descent 
of this side of the pass has never 
yet been effected. ) 

The principal use (if it may be so 
called) of the Trelatete gl. is to 
afford a short cut from Contamines to 
the Col de la Seigne. This would 
naturally lie over the ridge which 
bounds the Trelatete gl. on the E. 
and S. But the two most direct 



378 PENNINE ALPS. § 16. MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



passes, the Cols de Trelatete and de 
r Allee Blanche (both at the S. foot of 
the Aiguille de Trelatete), are only 
accessible on either side by such torn 
and difficult glaciers, or so steep a 
slope of ice, that, though experienced 
mountaineers may care to cross them, 
they are most certainly not short cuts 
in point of time. The Col des Glaciers 
(3,098 m., 10,165 ft.), S.W. of the 
Aiguille des Glaciers (3,834 m„ , 
12,579 ft.), is easier, the ascent from 
the Trelatete gl. lying up the second 
tributary gl. to the pass (3| hrs. ), and 
the descent to Les Mottets, skirting 
the rocky ridge between the two gls. 
on the other side, taking only hr. 
But the real short cut is over the Col 
dm Mont Tondu (2,895 m - > 9>498 ft. ), 
an easy glacier pass lying just to the 
N.E. of the Mont Tondu (3,196 m., 
10,486 ft. ) It is said that by the Col 
du Mont Tondu no less than 5 hrs. 
may be saved between Contamines 
and the Col de la Seigne, but this 
seems an exaggeration. From the 
Pavilion the track along the r. bank 
of the Trelatete gl. is followed till an 
iron bar fastened to a rock face 
enables the traveller to descend to 
the lateral moraine, which is fol- 
lowed, and later the gl. itself, till 
above the icefall. Hence the way 
turns to the S. , and an easy small 
glacier leads to the pass (2J hrs. from 
the Pavilion). The view is fine, but 
may be much extended by climbing 
either the Pointe de la Lanchette 
(3,088m., 10,132 ft.), to the N.E. of 
the pass, or, better still, the Mont 
Tondu, to its S.W. (a good hour.) 
The Graian Alps from the Grivola to 
the Grande Casse are admirably seen 
from either point, while below are the 
gently inclined slopes of the great 
Trelatete gl. , at whose head, and 
seen through the opening of the Col 
(dit) Infranchissable, rises the mass of 
Mont Blanc. The spectator can 
hardly realise that between that Col 
and the W. face of Mont Blanc there 
intervenes the deep basin of the 
Italian Miage gl. , as the neve of the 
Trelatete gl. seems, by an effect of 



perspective, to unite with that of the 
glaciers on the W. side of Mont 
Blanc. A steep face of rocks (in the 
reverse direction make for a point to 
the 1. of a small rocky knob on the 
ridge) leads down from the Col du 
Mont Tondu to the Lanchette gl. The 
descent to Mottets ( \\ hr. ) is easy, but 
if the Col de la Seigne be the point 
aimed at it is possible (though very 
rough) to bear away to the 1. and to 
traverse a bit of the Gl. des Glaciers 
and many ravines before the Col de 
la Seigne is gained in 2§ hrs. from 
the Col du Mont Tondu. 



Route G. 

CHAMONIX TO COURMAYEUR BY 
THE MIAGE GLACIER. 

The only considerable breach in 
the range of Mont Blanc is that 
marked by the Col de Miage. It is 
true that the latest measurements 
make the Col du Geant about 17 ft. 
lower than the Col de Miage, but the 
two glaciers, both named Glacier de 
Miage, which descend N. and S. 
from the last-named pass, lie in 
hollows that are cut deeper and 
farther into the mass than any others. 
The ridge over which the pass lies 
has been truly likened to a dyke or 
causeway connecting the Aiguille de 
Bionnassay with the Dome de Miage, 
and it is so steep on either side that 
two points, not quite 2 miles apart in 
a straight line, are separated by 
several hours of laborious climbing. 

The Col de Miage was first visited 
by strangers with a view to the dis- 
covery of a new route to the summit 
of Mont Blanc rather than as a way 
from Chamoni:* to Courmayeur. But 
it is occasionally used as a pass by 
active mountaineers, while the usual 
route from Courmayeur up Mont Blanc 
traverses the Italian Miage gl., 



ROUTE G. CHAMONIX TO COURMAYEUR 379 



though it does not pass by the Col itself, 
as the old explorers expected. The 
earliest known passage of the Col was 
by some chamois hunters, about 1 798, 
one of whom perished in a crevasse 
at the N. base of the Col. The first 
foreign traveller was Mr. E. T. Cole- 
man, who has given an account of 
his passage in 1858 in his beautiful 
work ' Scenes from the Snow-Fields. ' 
The difficulties on the S. side are 
perhaps the greater, though they are 
not really serious. Yet none of the 
recognised precautions and appliances 
of glacier-travelling should be omitted 
in whichever direction the pass is 
taken. If coming from the Chamonix 
side it is best to sleep at the Miage 
chalets ; on the Courmayeur side the 
little inn called Cantine de la Yisaille, 
near the foot of the Italian Miage 
gl., is the best resting place for a 
traveller. 

The Miage huts are not far from 
the foot of the considerable French or 
N. Miage gl. The foot of the 
Bionnassay gl. may be reached 
from Chamonix in hrs. by the Col 
de Voza or the Pavilion Bellevue. 
The traveller must then cross the 
Col de Tricot (2,133 m -; 6,998 ft.) — 
small Inn — over the long N.W. spur 
of the Aiguille de Bionnassay, and 
so go direct from the foot of the Bion- 
nassay glacier to the Miage chalets 
(2 \ hrs.) These huts may also be 
gained from St. Gervais in 2 hrs. , or 
from Contamines in i-J-2 hrs. by way 
of the Miage glen. The ascent along 
the grass slopes and rock steps to the 
moraine on the r. bank of the 
Miage gl. , and then along the 
moraine itself, is rather long and 
fatiguing. The upper level of the 
gl. is reached in about 2§ hrs. 
from the chalets, and the ridge to be 
traversed then comes into full view. 
Its appearance is like that of a 
gigantic dyke, 2,000 ft. in height, 
rising pretty steeply from the gently 
sloping neve of the glacier, and de- 
fended (as usual) by a bergschrund, 
which may sometimes offer difficul- 
ties. In the centre of the wall, just 



I below the lowest depression of the 
Col, a steep couloir extends from top 
to bottom of the slope. This couloir 
is the channel through which masses 
of snow and detached fragments of 
rock shoot to the base of the wall. 
It must therefore be carefully avoided. 
Besides the couloir, however, three 
rock ridges are seen to descend the 
wall leading up to the Col. The ascent 

I is made in 2 hrs. by the easy rocks of 
the central one of these three ridges. 

I The summit of the pass (3,376 m. , 

I 1 1,077 ft. ) ^ but a few yards in width, 
and the view is chiefly interesting as 

I the Col is one of the nearest points 
from which to study the grand W. 

, face of Mont Blanc. 

[From the Col many attempts were 
made in 1856 and following years to 
attain the summit of Mont Blanc. But 
it was only many years later that even 
a part of this plan, the ascent of the 

! Dome du Gouter, was achieved. In 
1864 Messrs. Adams -Reilly and Birk- 
beck from the pass skirted the S.E. 
flank of the Aiguille de Bionnassay and 
descended on to the plateau above the 
great icefall of the Italian Bionnas- 
sav §}•■> whence they climbed up to 
the Dome du Gouter. attained in 
5| hrs. from the Col. 'in 1888 Miss 
Richardson took a much bolder and 

1 more direct route, gaining from the 
same plateau the S. arete of the Aiguille 

\ de Bionnassay (4,066 m. , 13,341 ft.) 

I at a point about 20 min. from the Col 

! de Miage, and thenceforth following 

I the crest of the ridge over the Aiguille 
de Bionnassay to the Dome. This 

1 is perhaps the best route up the 
Aiguille, the E. ridge of which is 
extremely sharp and narrow, being 

j a mere knife edge of ice.] 

The S. or Italian Miage gl. is 
altogether on a grander scale than 
that on the N. side. It receives three 

! considerable tributaries, flowing from 

\ the S.W. slopes of Mont Blanc. Of 
these the most westerly is the Italian 

j Bionnassay gl., descending from 
the ridge connecting the Aiguille de 

j Bionnassay wdth the Dome du Gouter 

I (4,331 m., 14,210 ft.), and up it leads 



380 PENNINE ALPS. § 16. MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



the now usual route to Mont Blanc | 
from Courmayeur (see Rte. B. 3. v.) 
The central of the -three is the Dome 
gl. , and by it Mr. Buxton and his com- 
panions in 1865 effected an exciting 
descent from the Dome, which has 
been vividly described in the ' Alpine 
Journal,' while in 1868 Mr. F. A. G. 
Brown ascended Mont Blanc by this 
way. The most easterly of the three 
glaciers is the Mont Blanc gl., by 
which in 1872 Mr. T. S. Kennedy 
made a route to Mont Blanc, which 
offers no great difficulties, but is much 
exposed to falling stones. Each of 
these glaciers descends in a long and 
very steep icefall to the main stream 
of the Italian Miage g]., that of the 
most easterly being the most formid- 
able. 

To descend from the Col de Miage 
the traveller must bear well to the 
r. , so as to gain (10 min. ) the rocks 
on the r. bank of the small gl. 
descending from the Col. These are 
descended (many crystals en route) 
without serious difficulty in about 
f hr. to the surface level of the Miage 
gl. The view from below of the 
grand masses that enclose the small 
gl., and of the great horseshoe 
icefall by the side of which the de- 
scent has been effected, is very fine. 
The Miage glacier is easy to follow to 
the great moraine on the r. bank 
above the Lac de Combal (2jhrs.), 
whence a path leads in f hr. to the 
Cqntine de la Visaille (1,653 m., 
5,423 ft.), on the mule path coming 
from the Col de la S eigne. This is 
1 -J- hr. from Courmayeur, which is 
thus gained in 5 -J hrs. from the pass, 
or 10 hrs. from the Miage chalets. 
Rather less time is required for the 
passage of this Col if it be taken 
from the Courmayeur side. 



Route H. 

CHAMONIX TO MARTIGNY. 

A large proportion of the strangers 
who visit Chamonix either go or 
return by way of Martigny, in the 
Rhone valley, and have a choice of 
three routes. That first described is 
open only to pedestrians or riders, 
and the way is steep, but the views 
are finer than on the other routes. 
These are both traversed by carriage 
roads, but the Tete Noire road is 
passable for four-wheeled carriages, 
so that it takes most of the traffic, 
though the Sal van route is shorter, 
easier, and more picturesque. A good 
walker can (as is indicated below) 
combine bits of these routes in one 
day's journey. 

1. By the Col de Balme (carriage 
road to Argentiere, and from Trient, 
otherwise mule path ; 7-8 hrs.) — It ' 
is better to take this route in this 
direction, as Chamonix is nearly 2,000 
ft. higher than Martigny. In fine 
weather a guide is unnecessary, and, 
except on a clear day, the other routes 
are much to be preferred. 

The road up the valley of Chamonix 
runs along the r. bank of the Arve 
till it crosses to the 1. bank at Les 
Praz. whence branches off the path 
to the Flegere (Rte. A. Excursion 
10). It then traverses a fine forest 
wherein stands the hamlet of Les 
Tines (hence to the Chapeau, Rte. A. 
Excursion 3), and mounts through a 
defile, shortly after issuing from which 
the Arve is again crossed, and soon 
Argentiere (1,250 m. , 4,101 ft.) is 
gained ( 1 f hr. ) This village lies near 
the lower end of the great glacier of 
the same name, the vast extent of 
which, however, cannot be guessed 
when it is merely seen from below. 

[The Lognan inn, on its 1. bank, 
may be reached by a bridle path in 

2 hrs. , and the excursion extended for 

3 hrs. to the ' Jardin d' Argentiere,' a 
worthy rival of the more famous spot 



ROUTE H. CHAMONIX TO MARTIGNY 



38i 



in the Talefre gl. For the passes from 
the Argentiere gl. see Rte. L.] 

Above Argentiere the valley is bare, 
the forests having been gradually 
destroyed by storms and avalanches, 
and perhaps still more by the careless- 
ness of the inhabitants ; but cultivation 
(as well as the char road, from which 
soon branches off that to 2. and 3. ) 
extends as far as the hamlet of Le Tour 
{\ hr. ), near the termination of the 
Tour gl., the most northerly of the 
great glaciers flowing into the valley 
of Chamonix. (For the passes thence 
to Orsieres and Trient see Rte. M.) 
Hence the ascent to the Col, passing 
the chalets of Charamillon, is con- 
tinuous, but nowhere steep, lying up 
grass slopes, partly over lias, partly 
over the debris of a black, friable 
slate, a member of the Carboniferous 
series, which is more extensively 
developed in the parallel valley of the 
Eau Noire and of the Trient. The 
ridge which closes the valley of 
Chamonix on the N.E. is a prolonga- 
tion of that separating the Tour and 
Trient glaciers. N.W. of the Col de 
Balme it rises into a peak of crumbling 
rock, the Croix de Fer, 2,344 m. , 
7,691 ft. (easily accessible in J hr. from 
the pass), whereon Herr Escher, of 
Zurich, was dashed to pieces by a 
fall in 1 79 1, when attempting the 
ascent. On the summit of the Col de 
Balme, 2,201 m. , 7,221 ft. (2 hrs. 
from Argentiere), there is a stone 
marking the boundary between France 
and Switzerland, and close by a 
mountain inn. The view hence is 
justly celebrated, and in fine weather 
this route should always be preferred 
by those who approach Chamonix 
from the Vallais, as the effect of the 
grand range of Mont Blanc, seen 
from its nearest summit, the Aiguille 
du Chardonnet, to that of the Aiguille 
du Gouter, with the opposite range 
of the Aiguilles Rouges, is enhanced 
by the charm of surprise when it is 
suddenly unrolled before the eyes of 
the traveller who has come up from 
the narrow gorge of the Trient. To 
the N.E. over the Forclaz the range 



of the Bernese Alps, between the 
Diablerets and the Jungfrau, forms a 
distinct portion of the panorama. It 
may be extended by ascending the 
Croix de Fer or the lower Rolktta 
(each J hr. ) Some travellers sleep at 
the inn here, for the sake of seeing 
the sunrise, but the sunset effect is 
preferable, and it is quite possible to 
reach Chamonix the same night. 
(For the Col du Tour see Rte. M. ) 

[A pedestrian who does not fear to 
lengthen his day's walk may descend 
in 2 hrs. from the Col by a path past 
several groups of chalets, among which 
are those of Jeurs, to the Tete Noire 
inn, visit the Gorges Mysterieuses, and 
in if hr. from the inn gain Finhaut, 
thus combining on the way to Mar- 
tigny the most interesting parts of all 
three routes.] 

The descent by the mule track from 
the Col towards the village of Trient. 
is much steeper than the ascent from 
Argentiere. The chalets of Her- 
bageres (10 min. below the Col) 
command a fine view of the Trient 
gl. , which closes the series of 
glaciers that drain the N.W. flank of 
the Mont Blanc range. The forest 
through which the steepest part of 
the descent lies by many zigzags has 
been thinned, and partly carried away 
by avalanches. At its base are some 
meadows (f hr. ), through which flows 
the torrent from the Trient gl. The 
natural course hence to the Rhone 
valley would be to follow that torrent 
to its junction with the great river, 
and this in truth is the most interesting 
route (see 3, below) ; the shorter way 
crosses the low ridge E. of this plain 
and follows a nearly direct line down 
a lateral glen of the Dranse. In these 
meadows the l.-hand track leads to 
the village of Trient, but a pedestrian 
bound for Martigny direct should 
cross the torrent and ascend a steep 
slope, so as to join, at the corner of 
of the longest zigzag, the road coming 
from the Tete Noire. In this way 
the Col de la Forclaz (1,520 m., 
4,987 ft.) is attained in f hr. from 
the plain. 



382 PENNINE ALPS. § 16. 



MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



[Hence an interesting excursion 
may be made along the ice-tramway 
line to the foot of the Trient gl. 
(I J- hr. ), and then a path up 
the r. bank of the gl. taken ; the 
gl. may be crossed J hr. above its 
end, and the return effected by the 
opposite bank — a 4 hrs.' round. It 
is possible to go up the r. bank of 
that gl. to the Col du Trient, and 
• so in 5^ hrs. from the Forclaz to reach 
the Orny Club hut, Rte. M. From 
the Forclaz the beautiful view -point 
of the Arpille (2,082 m., 6,831 ft.), 
on the N., may be reached in \\ hr., 
and the descent made direct thence 
in 3 hrs. to Martigny, the Tete Noire, 
Salvan, or Vernayaz. For the beautiful 
path from the Forclaz to the lake of 
Champex by Bovine see Rte. I.J 

About \ hr. below the pass there 
opens out a vista of vast extent along 
the course of the Rhone from Martigny 
to beyond Sierre, and even to the 
Balmhom and Bietschhorn ranges. 
The uniform slope of the mountains 
on either side makes this and other 
views of the valley of the Rhone less 
interesting than they would otherwise 
be. The descent lies through a pleas- 
ant valley, tolerably well planted, 
and the change of climate is very 
marked on reaching the region of 
vines and chestnuts through which 
the road winds in many zigzags, 
joining that from the Great St. Ber- 
nard at Le Brocard, 2\ m. from 
Martigny- Ville. But pedestrians may 
descend direct ( if hr. from the Forclaz) 
to Martigny -Combe. The road passes 
through Martigny -Bourg and under 
an avenue of fine plane trees to 
Martigny- Ville, I mile farther on 
(if hr. from the Forclaz to the 
railway station). 

2. By the iete Noire (good char 
road; hrs.) — A line drawn 

from Servoz to Vernayaz, in the 
Rhone valley, through the valley 
of the Diosaz and that of Vallor- 
cine marks a depression parallel to 
the valley of Chamonix, from which 
it is separated by the range of the 
Aiguilles Rouges and the Brevent. N. 



of Argentiere this barrier subsides to 
a low ridge, traversed by a road, 
which turns off close to that village, 
crosses the Arve, and ascends over 
rough ground, past the hamlet of 
Trelechamp, to the C )l des Montets, 
1,445 m -5 ft- (f hr.) After a 

slight descent the valley of Valloi'rine, 
sometimes called the Val de Berard, 
opens on the 1. near the hamlet of La 
Poyaz, and allows a glimpse of the 
snowy summit of the Buet. 

[A fine waterfall, the Cascade de 
Berard, may be reached in J hr. by 
a mule path. It lies on the way 
through the Val de Berard, by which 
the ascent of the Buet is commonly 
made, and better deserves a visit 
than many of greater celebrity. The 
Eau Noire here breaks through a 
mass of huge granite blocks piled, 
together in the wildest confusion, 
and springs over a ledge 50 ft. high 
into a dark basin. For the way to 
Sixt over the Buet see § 17. Rte. E, 
and for that to Finhaut and Salvan 
§ 17. Rtes. F and I.] 

The Arve, and also the Eau Noire, 
are crossed before an easy descent 
leads (ij hr. from Argentiere) to 
the hamlet of Vallorcine (1,250 m., 
4,101 ft.), the last village in France. 
A massive stone bastion has been 
raised to protect the village church 
from the destructive force of the 
avalanches, to which the village is 
much exposed. A little farther the 
road crosses to the r. bank of the 
Eau Noire, and soon after reaches the 
Hotel de la Barber ine (-J hr. ), near 
the junction of the Barberine torrent 
with the main stream. 

[Another fine waterfall, that of the 
Barberi?ie, much higher, but less 
singular than that of Berard, lies 
about J hr. off. For the passes 
through the Barberine glen to Sixt, 
Champery, Finhaut, and Salvan see 
§ 17. Rtes. F and I.J 

The defile of the Eau Noire through 
which the road now runs has been 
compared to the Via Mala, but is 
perhaps more beautiful in its details, 
though on a less grand scale. It lies 



ROUTE II. CHAMONIX TO MARTIGNY 



333 



between the Perron and the Beloiseau, 
above the 1. bank, and the N. spurs 
of the Croix de Fer range, above the 
r. bank. A bridge over the Eau 
Noire marks the Swiss frontier (just 
across which is the Hotel Suisse du 
Chatelard), and \ hr. from the Bar- 
berine inn the bifurcation of the 
Trient and Salvan roads is reached 
at the burnt H. Royal du Chdtelard. 
That to Trient crosses to the r. 
bank of the Eau Noire, and passes 
by a tunnel, called Roche Percee, 
through a projecting buttress of rock, 
before gaining (f hr. ) the Hotel de ia 
Tete Noire, which commands a very 
beautiful view. (Near here there are 
the Gorges Mysterieuses of the Trient, 
which are worth a detour of 20 min. , 
while from them a path leads up in 1 
hr. to Finhaut, high above the other 
bank of that stream. ) The junction of 
the Eau Noire with the Trient is not 
seen by this route, as the road turns 
out of the defile, and, entering the 
valley of Trient, is carried nearly at 
a level through a pine forest at a con- 
siderable height above the stream. 
The village of Trient is reached after 
crossing the Trient stream in f hr. , 
and thence some zigzags, on the 
longest of which the Col de Balme 
route falls in, lead up to the Col de 
la Forclaz (f hr. ) The way thence 
to Martigny has been described 
above. 

3. By Salvan (char road ; 8 firs. ) — 
The glen of the Trient, which de- 
scends from the Tete Noire to 
Vernayaz, near Martigny, offers a 
more interesting route than that by 
the Tete Noire. As the torrent flows 
in a deep ravine it is impossible to 
follow it, so that the road runs high 
above its 1. bank, along very pic- 
turesque and well-wooded slopes on 
which stand many villages. 

The road leaves that to the Tete 
Noire at the burnt Chdtelard hotel 
(4 hrs. from Chamonix), and mounts 
in zigzags to the terrace above the 
torrent. It then turns to the N.E., 
and after a descent attains the 
prettily situated village of Finhaut 



(locally called ' les Fins Hauts 
1,237 m., 4,059 ft. (if hr.), whence 
there is a fine view of the Trient 
gl. , of the Aiguilles Rouges, etc. 

[Finhaut is coming into fashion 
as a health resort, and many pleas- 
ant excursions not involving the use 
of the rope may be made from it 
as a centre. The ascents most to be 
recommended are those of the Six 
Jeur, 2,056 m., 6,746 ft., 2§ hrs., 
of the Beloiseati (2,638 m., 8,655 ft.), 
4 hrs., and of the Fontanabraii 
(2,697 m., 8,849 ft-) , 5 hrs. For 
the way to Sixt or Champery by the 
Col de la Gueula and the Barberine 
glen, see § 17. Rtes. F and I.J 

A short ascent from Finhaut leads 
to a point whence Mont Blanc is 
seen over the Col des Montets. 
A steep descent through a forest 
(8 zigzags) then brings the traveller 
to the hamlet of Triquent, 994 m., 
3,261 ft. (| hr.) (Hence the ro- 
mantic gorges of the Triege may 
be visited, wooden bridges giving 
access to the ravine, in which are 
pretty cascades. ) Very soon after the 
road crosses by a lofty bridge the 
Triege torrent, coming down from 
the Emaney glen. The scenery here 
has been compared to that of the 
Pantenbrticke, in the Linththal (Gla- 
rus). The road now runs nearly at a 
level to Salvan, 925 m., 3,035 ft. ■ 
(J hr. ) This has of recent years be- 
come a much-visited spot, especially 
by families from French-speaking 
Switzerland. It is charmingly situ- 
ated on a green terrace. 

[Many excursions can also be made 
from here. It is a pleasant walk of 
2 hrs. to the Cretise chalets, on the W. , 
whence there is a fine view of Mont 
Blanc. The great excursion is that 
to the Sala?ife hollow, at the foot of 
the Dent du Midi. This may be 
reached from Salvan by a path up the 
Sallanche gorge (2± hrs.), but it is 
much more interesting to go by way 
of the Col d? Emaney (2,427 m., 
7,963 ft., 4 hrs.), from which the 
Luisin (2,786 m., 9,141 ft.) is acces- 
sible in I nr., the view thence* being 



384 PENNINE ALPS. § 16. MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



very fine. The highest point of the 1 
Dent du Midi (3,260 m., 10,696 ft.) 1 
is best reached in 4 hrs. from Salanfe, 
where there is a small inn in summer, 
and many other climbs may be made 
from the same centre. See § 17. Rte. 
H. Full details will be found in the 
excellent work by Monsieur Wagnon, 
' Autour de Salvan, 5 2nd edition, 
1895.3 

Soon after quitting Salvan the road 
reaches the edge of a steep descent, 
which is effected through a small 
valley, under the shade of chestnut 
and walnut trees, by a series of 43 
bold though short zigzags. The 
Rhone valley is attained at the mouth 
of the gorges of the Trient, where is 
the village of Vernayaz (f hr. ), on 
the main railway line from St. 
Maurice to Brieg (§21. Rte. A), 3 m. 
from Martigny. 



Route I. 

CHAMONIX OR. MARTIGNY TO OR- 
SIERES BY CHAMPEX. 

At the extreme N.E. end of the 
Mont Blanc chain rises the Catogne 
(2,599 m., 8,527 ft., a summit of sur- 
prising boldness, though of moderate 
height. It is separated from the main 
mass of the Mont Blanc range by a 
hollow in which lies the exquisite 
Lake of Champex. This may be 
easily taken on the way to Orsieres ! 
either by a traveller who has reached 
the Forclaz from Chamonix, but does 
not wish to descend to Martigny, or 
by one who desires to avoid most 
of the dusty high road from Martigny 
to Orsieres. The route is a very in- 
teresting and agreeable one, and of 
late years the neighbourhood of the 
Lake (around which are several inns) 
has become a favourite resort of 
families from French-speaking Swit- 
zerland. 



(a) If comingfrom Chamonix , the 
traveller should take a path from the 
Forclaz (see last Rte.), which starts 
close to the little inn, and ascends 
gradually, amid pastures and pine 
trees, to a point below the Pointe de 
Bovine, 2,174m., 7,133 ft. {i\ hr.), 
between the chalets of La Gie.te and 
those of Bovine. Hence there is a 
most magnificent view, which reaches 
to the E. end of the Lake of Geneva, 
and includes many of the Bernese 
Alps, the Diablerets alone being 
hidden in the long line between the 
Buet and the Finsteraarhorn. The 
Grand Combin group stands out 
splendidly on the r. The Signal 
may be reached in a few minutes, but 
the view is not so fine thence as 
from the little col before Bovine, on 
issuing from the forest. Beyond 
Bovine the path winds round a cor- 
ner of the mountain, bearing to the 
r. , and then descends by steep 
zigzags to cross the Durnant torrent 
high up by a plank bridge, and later 
the torrent from the Lake of Cham- 
pex, in order to gain the saw mill of 
Mariotty {\\ hr. from Bovine), where 
this path joins that described under 
b. 

(b) A traveller coming from Mar- 
tigny must follow the high road to- 
wards the Great St. Bernard (§18. 
Rte. A) as far as the hamlet of Les 
V alettes (about 4m.), a little below 
Bovernier. Hence he can take the 
zigzag char road which mounts in 
J hr. to the entrance to the fine 
Gorges of the Durnant (see § 18. Rte. 
A), and then either go through them 
by a foot path, or mount high above 
the r. bank of the Durnant by a 
mule path, which is later joined by 
the path from the gorges hr. ) 
The mule path passes through a fine 
forest of larches, and makes two 
successive steep ascents before reach- 
ing Mariotty {i\ hr. ) 

It then passes along the edge of a 
forest, amid beautiful scenery, crosses 
the low wooded ridge which holds in 
the lake, and attains its E. shore 
(J-I hr.). 



ROUTE K. ORSIERES TO COURMAYEUR 385 



This secluded lake (1,470 m., 
4,823 ft.), fringed with pine forest, 
and backed by the noble group 
of the Grand Combin and its neigh- 
bours, is one of the most exquisite 
spots in the Alps. But the inns and 
bustle in the height of summer rather 
spoil the scene for lovers of nature. 

[There are many pretty walks 
around this charming place, such as 
that to the Arpette glen. The Catogne 
(2,599 m., 8,527 ft.) itself can be 
climbed in 3 hrs. by the great couloir of 
debris in its S. W. flank. A favourite 
excursion is to go in 3 J hrs. by the Col j 
de la Breya (2,409 m., 7,904 ft.) to j 
the Orny Club hut (see Rte. M) to j 
sleep. The next day a pleasant round j 
of 9 hrs. back to Champex may be 
made thence by crossing the Col des 
Plines, then ascending the Portalet 
(3^345 m -> IO >975 ft-)> and descend- 
ing W. of the Pointe des Plines to 
the Saleinaz gl. This is crossed to 
its r. bank, and the return made 
past the Saleinaz Club hut to Praz de 
Fort, taking a little path which 
mounts from the high road beyond 
Ville dTssert and so leads home. 3 

The descent from the lake is rapid, 
and the traveller gains the road in the 
Swiss Ferret valley (Rte. K), a few 
minutes before entering Orsieres (a 
short hour from the lake). 



Route K. 

ORSIERES TO COURMAYEUR BY THE 
COL FERRET. 

Char road from Orsieres to the Swiss 
Ferret chalets, and from Ferache' to 
Courmayeur (its completion is pro- 
jected) ; mule path over the Col. 
8^-9 hrs. 

The line of depression extending 
parallel to the crystalline range of 
Mont Blanc from the Col de la Seigne 
to Orsieres is partially interrupted by 

I. 



a ridge which connects the Mont 
Dolent with the minor range of 
schistose carboniferous strata stretch- 
ing through the Grand Golliaz to the 
Grande Rochere. Over this ridge 
lies the Col Ferret (or Grand Ferret/, 
passable for mules, and frequented by 
those who make the tour of Mont 
Blanc, and who wish to take the most 
direct route from Martigny to Cour- 
mayeur, though, since the completion 
of the carriage road on the Swiss side 
of the Great St. Bernard, that pass is 
probably now the shortest route be- 
tween the two places named. 

[Two other passes cross the same 
ridge further N. W. and S. E. The Petit 
Ferret (2,489 m., 8,166 ft. ), or the 
Pas de Chantonet, is nearer the Mont 
Blanc range, but is steeper and shorter 
than the Grand Ferret, while it is not 
so much frequented by strangers, as 
it is not passable for mules, and the 
view from it is inferior. The Col du 
Ban d^Arrey (2,695 m -> 8,842 ft.) 
lies to the S.E. of the Grand Ferret, 
and is also not passable for mules, 
but it is convenient for a traveller 
coming from the Great St. Bernard 
by the Col de Fenetre and bound for 
Courmayeur direct. See §18. Rte. B.J 
The valleys on either side of the 
Col Ferret are known as the Val 
Ferret and may be best distinguished 
as the Swiss and Italian Val Ferrets 
respectively. The view from the Col 
is in clear weather very interesting, 
but in other respects the scenery of 
this route is not quite equal to that of 
the other low passes in the neighbour- 
hood of Mont Blanc. 

From Orsieres the char road runs 
along the 1. bank of the Dranse, 
soon passing the junction of the 
Dranse de Ferret with the Dranse 
d'Entremont, which descends from 
the Great St. Bernard. The princi- 
pal hamlet in the Swiss Val Ferret is 
Ville d'Issert (f hr. ) This glen con- 
tains many hamlets, and appears 
fertile and well planted with fruit 
trees ; but although it presents an 
agreeable contrast to those who de- 
scend into it from the glaciers de- 
c c 



386 PENNINE ALPS. § 16. MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



scribed in other Rtes. the scenery is 
not of a very striking character. The 
second hamlet after Ville dTssert is 
Praz de Fort (\ hr. ), close to which 
the stream from the Saleinaz gl. 
joins the Dranse. 

[Hence it is hrs. up to the new 
and finely-placed Saleinaz Club htit, 
see Rte. M.] 

Beyond Branche the two small 
glaciers of Planereuse and of Treutz 
Bouc are seen hanging over the W. 
side of the valley, and the road (now 
fit for small chars only), which since 
Praz de Fort has kept to the r. bank, 
mounts more rapidly to La Fouly. 
1,594 m., 5,230 ft. (2§hrs.' walking 
from Orsieres), a group of chalets 
where there was formerly an inn. 
Nearly opposite, in a forest of larches, 
is the opening leading up to the La 
Neuvaz gl. (For the way to the 
Col d'Argentiere see Rte. L. ) About 
\ hr. further on are the Ferret chalets 
(1,693 m -> 5' 555 ft*) j where the char 
road comes to an end, and where 
there is now a small inn. (A little 
before reaching them the steep zigzag 
path to the Petit Ferret turns of! to 
the r. , rejoining the main track at 
the Pre de Bar chalets, on the other 
side of the Col. ) At the Ars huts 
(J hr. beyond) the tracks to the Col 
de Fenetre for the Great St. Bernard 
(§ 18. Rte. B), to the Coldes Planards 
forBourgSt. Pierre (§ 18. Rte. C), 
and to the Col du Ban d'Arrey (men- 
tioned above) turn off from the 
Ferret path. This path mounts over 
the remains of a great landslip which 
in 1776 destroyed some of the Peulaz 
huts, where the track bears S.W. 
The way lies among Jurassic lime- 
stone rocks, small patches of which, 
the remains of extensive deposits, re- 
moved by denudation, are found over- 
lying the carboniferous strata that 
surround the crystalline mass of Mont 
Blanc. The last part of the ascent is 
steep, and about if hr. is required 
from the Ferret huts to reach (5 hrs. 
from Orsieres) the Col Ferret (2,533 
m. , 8,31 1 ft. ), a depression in the ridge 
extending from the Mont Dolent 



(3,823 m., 12,543 ft.) to the Grand 
Golliaz (3,240 m. , 10,630 ft.) The 
view extends along the Italian Val 
Ferret, and up the Allee Blanche to 
the Col de la Seigne. The Grandes 
Jorasses is partly hidden by the Mont 
Gruetta spur, but every detail of the 
Mont Dolent and Triolet gls. can 
be seen, as well as the fine peaks 
which overhang them ; the chief of 
these is the Mont Dolent (3,823 m. , 
12,543 ft.), where the Swiss, French, 
and Italian frontiers meet, and which 
is easily climbed from the chalets 
of Pre de Bar or the Triolet Club 
hut (Rte. L). To the E. the Mont 
Velari and to the N.E. some of the 
Bernese peaks are seen. 

The Italian Val Ferret is far wilder 
and more rugged than the Swiss glen 
of the same name. Avalanches and 
bergfalls have destroyed most of the 
timber, and ruined pastures and 
chalets. One of the most consider- 
able on record destroyed on Septem- 
ber 12, 17 1 7, a group of chalets near 
the base of the Triolet gl. The 
track lies over soft slaty soil, in which 
the rains cut deep trenches, and for 
some distance is carried along the 1. 
bank of the valley at a great height 
above the torrent, passing a cross 
which serves to guide those who 
approach the Col from Courmayeur. 
The first chalets are those of Pre de 
Bar, 2,060 m., 6,759 ft. (less than 
j hr. from the pass), just at the foot 
of the steep descent from the Col. 
(For the pass hence to the Argentiere 
gl. see Rte. L. ) Several other 
groups of chalets are passed on the 
way down the valley. Near those of 
Sagivan the way to the Triolet gl. 
and Club hut (Rte. D) turns off. 
Lower down are the huts of Ferache 
(here begins the char road), La 
Vachey, Pra Sec, and Planpansier. 
The stream is crossed at La Vachey, 
but below Planpansier the road returns 
to the 1. bank, and, passing under 
the Mont de la Saxe, reaches Cour- 
mayeur in 3§-4 hrs. from the Col. 
5 hrs. or more are required when the 
start is made from Courmayeur. 



ROUTE L. CHAMONIX TO ORSIERES 



387 



Route L. 

CHAMONIX TO ORSIERES BY THE 
ARGENTIERE GLACIER. 

The Argentiere glacier, one of the 
greatest and certainly one of the 
most beautiful glaciers of the chain of 
Mont Blanc, descends nearly at right 
angles to the valley of Chamonix. It 
lies between the route extending from 
the Aiguille de Triolet (3,876 m. , 
12,717 ft.) j through the Courtes 
(3,855 m., 12,648 ft.) and the 
Droites (4,030 m., 13,222 ft.) to the 
Aiguille Verte (4,127 m., 13,541 ft.) 
on one side, and that which includes 
Mont Dolent (3,823 m., 12,543 ft.), 
the Tour Noir (3.836 m., 12,586 ft.), 
the Aiguille d' Argentiere (3,907 m., 
12,819 ft.), and the Aiguille du Char- 
donnet (3,822 m., 12,540 ft.) on the 
other. The older maps of the glacier, 
all based on the Sardinian map, 
represent the range between the 
Chardonnet and the Tour Noir as 
separating the Argentiere glacier from 
the head of the Tour glacier, while a 
second range, whose highest summit 
has been called the Pointe des Plines, 
divides the latter from the Saleinaz 
glacier. Such was the supposed 
topography of the ridge bounding the 
Argentiere glacier on the N. E. as 
late as 1862. In that year Mr. A. 
Adams-Reilly crossed the Col d' Argen- 
tiere, and was so much struck by the 
discrepancies between the existing 
maps and the appearance of this ridge 
that he resolved to make a serious 
attempt to ascertain their origin and 
the true state of things. In the fol- 
lowing year he therefore returned to 
Chamonix with a good theodolite, 
and after commencing his work on 
the Argentiere glacier was led to 
undertake a general map of the range 
of Mont Blanc, in the course of 
which he determined the position of 
about 200 points, the only trust- 
worthy materials he had being Prin- 
cipal Forbes 5 map of the Mer de 



Glace and the Dufour map for the 
small bit of the chain lying in Swiss 
territory. The result of this survey 
proved that the Pointe des Plines of 
; previous maps was simply the name 
given to the Aiguille d ? Argentiere, 
i when seen from the Saleinaz glacier, 
' and that the secondary range had no 
separate existence. Principal Forbes 
I says of Mr. Reilly's discovery, as 
; shown on his map, i To state its 
chief result in a single sentence, two 
mountains, each 13,000 ft. high, and 
standing on the old maps i-J mile 
apart, were pulled together and 
made one ; while a snow field of 
some 4 square miles in extent was 
annihilated. '* Thus the Tour glacier 
has really but half the length assigned 
to it on the older maps. 

The best starting point for any 
expeditions in the ridges surrounding 
j the Argentiere glacier is now the 
little Lognan inn ( 2,043 m., 6,703 ft.), 
situated on the 1. bank of the Argen- 
tiere glacier, and overlooking the 
very fine icefall. It may be reached 
in 2 hrs. by a mule path from the 
village of Argentiere, or in 3 hrs. 
from Chamonix by way of the Cha- 
peau track and a very pretty path past 
the Pendant huts. The mule path 
continues for about 20 min. beyond 
1 the inn, when it is necessary to follow 
the moraine on the 1. bank to its 
I furthest extremity, and then the edge 
I of the glacier until well above the 
icefall. In this way the upper pla- 
I teau of the glacier is reached in about 
hr. from the inn. This is the real 
starting point for all the expeditions 
i (save the Mont Dolent) to be described 
i in this Route. It is extraordinarily 
j flat and of great extent, while it is 
I surrounded on all sides, particularly 
I on the S. and W. , by a barrier of 
precipices. The range between the 
Aiguille Verte and the Aiguille de 
Triolet is, for the most part, bare 
rock, save where it is streaked by 
snow couloirs. By means of the 
rocks on the side of one of these 
gullies the only pass ever forced 
I across this formidable range was 

c c 2 



388 PENNINE ALPS. § 16. MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



effected in 1894, the Col des Courtes, 
at its S.E. extremity, leading to the 
Talefre basin, while the Courtes and 
the Aiguille Verte have each been 
once scaled, in 1876, from this side 
by very steep and dangerous routes. 
On the opposite side of the glacier 
there descends from between the 
Aiguilles du Chardonnet and d'Argen- 
tiere the Chardonnet glacier, leading 
up to the Col du Chardonnet. The 
Col d'Argentiere is near the S.E. 
corner of the glacier, while the Col 
du Mont Doient leads over the ridge 
at its very head. It is well worth 
the while of those who do not pro- 
pose to cross any of the high passes 
leading from this glacier to visit the 
upper plateau of the Argentiere gla- 
cier, an easy and interesting excur- 
sion. 

It is possible to gain Orsieres from 
the Argentiere glacier by three passes 
at least, all leading into the Swiss 
Val Ferret. These are the Col du 
Chardonnet and the Col du Tour 
Noir, both giving access to the 
Saleinaz glacier, and the Col d'Argen- 
tiere, by which the La Neuvaz glacier 
is attained. A fourth pass, the Col 
du Mont Doient, may be best de- 
scribed in this Route, though it brings 
a traveller to the very head of the 
Italian Val Ferret, and so leads to 
Courmayeur rather than to Orsieres. 

1 . By the Col du Chardonnet. — This 
is the most important and useful of 
all these passes, and is that most 
frequently traversed, as it affords a 
fine route towards Zermatt. It lies 
between the Aiguilles du Chardonnet 
and d'Argentiere, and was first 
crossed by Messrs. Adams-Reilly and 
Brandram in 1863. From the upper 
plateau of the Argentiere glacier the 
main glacier is crossed to the foot of 
the Chardonnet glacier, which de- 
scends from the pass (aj hrs. from 
the Lognan inn). It is necessary to 
mount some way by the huge moraine 
on the r. bank of that glacier, and 
then by the ice to the Col (3,325 m., 
10,909 ft.), reached in 2 hrs. from 
the foot of the lateral glacier. 



The descent lies down the rocks on 
the 1. of a great steep snow slope, 
the upper snows of the Saleinaz 
glacier being reached in about \ hr. 
Orsieres may now be gained by one 
of three routes. 

a. That usually taken up to 1894 
is to pass through the striking Feyietre 
de Saleinaz, 3,264 m., 10,709 ft. 
(Rte. M), at the N.W. corner of 
the glacier, to the Tour glacier, 
whence the Col du Tour route 
(Rte. M) is followed down the Orny 
glacier, and Orsieres reached in 5 
hrs. from the Col du Chardonnet. 
In 1864 Mr. A. W. Moore, with 
Christian Aimer, went from Lognan 
to Orsieres by this route in 7 J hrs.' 
walking, a tour de force. (It is a 
pleasant one day's excursion from the 
Lognan inn to Chamonix or the 
Montenvers to cross the Col du Tour 
on reaching the Tour glacier by the 
route described, and so regain the 
Arve valley. ) 

b. From the upper snows of the 
Saleinaz glacier it is possible to 
descend direct through the great ice- 
fall of that glacier, but this requires 
good guides and plenty of time. 

C There is another route which 
will doubtless now be the popular one. 
This leads from the new Saleinaz 
Club hut, 2,691 in., 8,829 ft. (see 
\ Rte. M), on the r. bank of the 
; glacier of that name, and at the N. 
1 foot of the Pointe de Planereuse, 
which stands high above the icefailjust 
mentioned. A track, with some steps 
cut in the rock, and fixed chains, 
i leads down the polished rocks on 
; the r. bank of the Saleinaz glacier, 
\ then crosses the moraine and torrent 
below 7 to the 1. bank, reaching the 
Col Ferret path near Praz de Fort, 
and by it Orsieres, in 2§ hrs. from 
the hut. 

The Aiguille d'Argentiere (3.907 

m., 12,819 ft. ) mav be gained from the 
Col du Chardonnet by the N.W. 
arete, but it is best to climb from the 
Chardonnet glacier by rocks or a 
snow couloir direct to that arete, 
where it rises to form the rocky and 



ROUTE L. CHAMONIX TO ORSIERES 



389 



lower W. summit, the higher being 
gained after a traverse on the N. side 
of the ridge connecting the two peaks 
(6 hrs. from Lognan). It was by the 
last-named route that the first ascent 
was made, in 1864, by Messrs. 
Adams- Reilly and Whymper. It is 
possible also to attain the top from 
every other side. The view is ex- 
ceedingly fine. The Aiguille du 
Chardonnet (3,822 m., 12,540 ft.) 
was first reached in 1865 by Mr. 
Robert Fowler, with two Chamonix 
guides. It is best reached by way of 
the highest snowy gap in the N.W. 
arete, which may be attained from 
Argentiere in 6 hrs. by the r. bank 
of the Argentiere gl. (1 hr. additional, 
if passing by Lognan, on the 1. bank) 
and the small glacier on the W. of 
the peak, more than 3 hrs. being re- 
quired thence to the summit. 

2. By the Col du Tour Noir. — 
There are two gaps, separated by 
the Aiguille de la Neuvaz^ 3,731 m., 
12,241 ft. (wrongly called Darrey 
on several maps), between the Aig. 
d'Argentiere and the Tour Noir. 
The ascent to either from the Argen- 
tiere glacier lies up the lateral 
Amethystes glacier, and is easy (4J 
hrs. from Lognan). The descent 
from that close to the Tour Noir 
has not yet been effected, but is 
said to present no great difficulties. 
That (3,541 m., 11,618 ft.) nearer 
the Aiguille d'Argentiere has been 
crossed but once in either direction, 
and is not recommended, as the 
great slope on the Saleinaz side offers 
very great difficulties and dangers. 
It was first crossed from the Log- 
nan side in 1864 by Messrs. H. B. 
George and R. J. S. Macdonald, 
with Christian Aimer and Melchior 
Anderegg. The descent to the 
Saleinaz glacier lay down a perilously 
steep slope, about 350 m. (1,148 ft. ) 
high, and composed mainly of hard 
ice, so that it cost hrs. of severe 
and dangerous work, followed by a 
clear fall of 30 ft. over the lip of a 
bergschrund, to gain the Saleinaz 
glacier. The second party — Mr. 



H. G. Fordham and M. John Jac- 
cottet, with Justin Bessart and Aulet, 
in 1890 — took exactly the same time 
to cut up this slope from the Saleinaz 
glacier. This passage must, there- 
fore, be reckoned as one of the 
greatest tours de force ever made in 
the Alps, the first party having 
crossed it by mistake for the Col 
d'Argentiere, owing to the badness 
of the then existing maps. 

From the Saleinaz side the routes 
are as described under I. above. 

3. By the Col d'Argentiere. — This 
pass lies immediately S. of the Tour- 
Noir, and affords a route from Log- 
nan to Orsieres which is far more 
circuitous than the two passes already 
described. It was discovered first by 
Auguste Simond, and first reached 
from Lognan on August I, i860, 
by Messrs. F. F. Tuckett and W. 
Wigram, under Simond's guidance, 
a thick fog and constant snow ava- 
lanches forcing the party to give up the 
idea of descending on the Swiss 
side. It was first crossed in 1861 
by Mr. Stephen Winkworth, with 
Auguste Simond, his son Francois, 
and Tobie Simond. 1 The ice stream 
(now called the Tour Noir glacier) 
from the Col d'Argentiere descends 
in a mass of irregular seracs, alternat- 
ing with slopes of neve, from a snow 
ridge guarded on the N. side by the 
Tour Noir, and on the S. by the 
serrated ridge of the A iguilles Rouges 
du Dolent (3,691 m., 12,110 ft.), 
leading up to the Mont Dolent. The 
stream is bounded on the 1. side 
(ascending) by a buttress of the Tour 
Noir, and on the r. by two masses 
of rock which crop out from the 
glacier like the Grand and Petit Ro- 
gnons 5 (A. A.-R., revised.) From the 
higher portion of the great upper 
plateau of the Argentiere glacier the 
ascent is made by the r. bank of 
the Tour Noir glacier, where it is 
least crevassed, the pass (3,516 m., 
11,536 ft.) being attained in about 
5 hrs. from the Lognan inn. It com- 
mands a magnificent view towards 
the E., in which the Grand Combin, 



39Q PENNINE ALPS. § 16. MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



the Dent Blanche, and the Weiss- 
horn are conspicuous. 

[From the Col the summit of the 
Tour Noir (3,836 m., 12.586 ft.) 
can be reached in if hr. by climb- 
ing along the crest of the S. arete to 
the foot of the final peak, then 
traversing the S.E. face by a level 
and very narrow ledge, till it is 
possible to climb up direct to the top. 
The first ascent was made by this 
route, in 1876, by M. E. Javelle and 
Mr. F. F. Turner. M. Javelle's 
description of the expedition is given 
in his 'Souvenirs d'un Alpiniste,' 
and is often reckoned as one of the 
best Alpine papers ever written. J 

The slope on the Argentiere side 
of the Col is not very steep, but the 
sheer descent on the opposite or E. 
side is positively startling. The 
early explorers effected a descent down 
the couloir immediately below the 
pass, or by a difficult circuit under 
the rocks of the Tour Noir. It has, 
however, been found best to mount 
the rocks on the N. of the pass for 
a short distance — 500 ft. or so — and 
then to descend E. by the crest of 
the rocky spur which forms the r. 
boundary of a small lateral glacier, 
finally taking to that glacier in order 
to reach the considerable La Netivaz 
glacier. This glacier unites the 
several ice streams flowing from this 
part of the range, and itself flows 
about due E. to the Swiss Val 
Ferret. 

[Hence the easy pass of the 
Col de la Grande Luis (3,379 m. , 
11,086 ft.) leads from its N. affluent 
to the Saleinaz glacier, there being no 
special difficulties en route. J 

The 1. bank of the La Neuvaz 
glacier must first be gained, then at 
its end the torrent crossed to its r. 
bank, over the wearisome moraines 
on which the traveller goes down to 
the La Neuvaz huts (5§ hrs. from the 
pass). A path soon brings him to 
the Col Ferret route at the Z# Fouly 
huts (Rte. K), and this is followed 
henceforth to Orsieres. 

This pass is best taken from the 



Swiss side. From the La Fouly huts 
a great part of the route to the Col 
may be traced. 

The Col du Mont Dolent lies 
over the ridge at the extreme 
head of the Argentiere glacier, be- 
tween the Mont Dolent on the N.E. 
I and the Aiguille de Triolet on the 
j S.W. It was first crossed in 1865 
by Mr. Whymper, with Christian 
Aimer, M. Croz, and F. Biener. On 
that occasion about 23 hours were 
taken from Courmayeur to Chamonix, 
as no less than 7 hrs. were consumed 
in cutting down the great ice couloir 
leading to the Argentiere glacier. 
The foot of this couloir may be gained 
over the easy Argentiere glacier in 
about 4 hrs. from Lognan. It has 
since been shown that the best way 
thence to the pass is up the steep but 
i firm rocks on the r. bank of the great 
i couloir, only 2 hrs. being required, 
i The pass is 3, 543 m. ( 1 1 ,625 ft. ) high. 
! The descent on the Italian side is by 
' easy rocks and a snow couloir to the 
j Pre de Bar glacier (called Mont 
Dolent glacier by Mieulet's map). 
It is then necessary to bear well to 
the 1. and to round the base of the 
spurs of the mountain, till the Petit 
Ferret path is gained (3J hrs. from 
the pass), close to that pass and 20 
min. above the Pre de Bar huts. If 
coming from the Italian side it is 
possible to start from the Triolet Club 
hut, on the 1. bank of the Triolet 
glacier, traversing thence over the 
S.E. ridge of the Monts Rouges in 
order to gain the Pre de Bar glacier. 

The ascent of the Mont Dolent 
(3,823 m., 12,543 ft.) is strongly re- 
commended, as it commands a very 
fine view. The frontiers of France, 
Italy, and Switzerland meet on its 
j summit. It was first ascended in 
., 1864 by Messrs. A. Adams-Reilly 
and Whymper. It is best to start from 
1 the Triolet Club hut, and to gain the 
i Pre de Bar glacier, as described above. 
! The traveller should then cross that 
! glacier in a N. direction and by a 
I short ice wall gain the snowy gap in 
I the S.E. arete (or a depression to 



ROUTE M. CHAMONIX TO ORSIERES 



391 



the r. of this gap, by means of very 
steep rocks). From the snowy gap 
it is best to keep below the crest of 
the ridge till it is possible to gain the 
first top, a short way below the true 
summit (5 hrs. from the Club hut, or 
6 hrs. from the Pre de Bar chalets). 



Route M. 

CHAMONIX TO ORSIERES BY THE 
TOUR GLACIER. 

The Tour glacier, which is the 
most northerly of the great glaciers 
that flow into the valley of Chamonix, 
affords access to three considerable 
glaciers on the Swiss side of the 
chain. Two of these — the glaciers of | 
Orny and Saleinaz — descend into the j 
Swiss Val Ferret ; the third flows 
into the Trient glen. A rough idea 
of the relative position of these four 
glaciers, which occupy the high 
valleys at the N. extremity of the 
range of Mont Blanc, may be formed 
if we first fix our attention on the 
extensive field of neve, called the 
Plateau du Trient, lying E. of the 
Aiguille du Tour. This is drained 
by two glaciers which flow at right 
angles to each other — the Glacier du 
Trient, descending to the N., and 
the Glacier d'Orny, to the E. The 
angle formed by these glaciers lies 
within another right angle, formed in 
its turn by the Tour and Saleinaz 
glaciers ; but while the two first- 
named start from the same level, the 
upper part of the Tour gl. lies at 
a great height above the Saleinaz 
gl. S. of the Aiguille du Tour 
there is an opening — the Col du Tour 
— in the ridge forming the E. boun- 
dary of the Tour gl. , and this gives 
easy access to the Trient plateau, 
wnence the Cols du Trient and 
(POrny (really only the heads of those 
glaciers) lead down the ice fields of 



the same name. The Trient plateau 
is connected with the Saleinaz gl. 
by the Fe nitre de Saleinaz and the 
Col des Plines, while the Fenetre du 
Tour affords direct means of com- 
munication between the Tour and 
the Saleinaz gls. This plateau, 
therefore, is the most important 
feature of the topography of these 
regions, especially as, thanks to the 
energy of the Swiss Alpine Club, 
there are good Club huts at the head 
of the Orny and Saleinaz glens, so 
that travellers may now easily visit a 
district which early explorers found it 
difficult to examine, owing to its dis- 
tance from all human habitations. 

The Glacier du Tour may be easily 
reached from the village of Argen- 
tine by a goat path which mounts 
by steep rocks and grass to the 
moraine on the r. bank of the 
glacier ; and this point may also be 
gained direct from the inn on the Col 
de Balme by keeping along the S.W. 
slope of the frontier ridge. It is best 
to bear well to the 1. on the glacier, 
so as to avoid the crevasses in its 
middle region ; but there is no diffi- 
culty, and the Col du Tour (3,280 m., 
10,762 ft.), S. of the Aiguille du Tour 
(3,540 m., 11,615 ft.), is attained in 
5 hrs. from either starting point. It 
was crossed for the first time in 1858 
by Mr. (now Sir) Alfred Wills, who 
in the previous year (like Principal 
Forbes in 1850) had traversed the 
same ridge more to the S., and 
nearer the Petite Fourche. 

[Principal Forbes' pass is the Col 
Blanc, separated from the Col du 
Tour by the snowy mound of the Tete 
Blanche ; Sir A. Wills gained the Col 
Blanc direct from the Tour gl., his 
predecessor having first tried in vain 
to descend to the Saleinaz gl. by 
the Col des Fourches, just at the N. 
foot — despite the Siegfried map — of 
the Grande Fourche. 3 

The view may be extended by 
mounting the S. and highest summit 
of the Aiguille du Tour (3,540 m. , 
11,615 ft. ) by way of its E. face and 
N.E. ridge (1 hr. ), and no traveller 



392 PENNINE ALPS. § 16. MONT BLANC DISTRICT 



should before undertaking the direct 
descent to Orny omit to make a 20 
min. detour to the very remarkable 
Fenetre de Saleinaz (see below). 

Should the traveller be bound for 
Trient and the Forclaz he should bear 
from the Col N.E. across the Trient 
plateau, to the Coldu Trient (2,982m., 
9,784 ft. ) and the r. bank of the Trient 
gl., by which his destination may 
be reached in 3 hrs. from the Col du 
Tour. A party bound for the Saleinaz 
Club hut should soon turn S.E. to 
the easy Fenetre de Saleinaz (see be- 
low) if it has not preferred to go 
direct from the Tour gl. to that of 
Saleinaz by the rather harder Fenetre 
du Tour, 3,355 m. , 11,008 ft. (first 
crossed in 1867 by Mr. — now Sir — F. 
and Mr. W. H. Pollock. ) 

Most travellers, however, desire to 
go from the Col to Orsieres by Orny. 
The direct course lies due E. (making 
a slight curve to the r. to avoid 
the hollow), and on reaching the 
slightly convex summit (Col d^Omy, 
3,119 m., 10,233 ft-) °f tne Trient 
plateau a fine distant view of the 
Bernese Alps gives an unexpected in- 
terest to the pass. Thence the de- 
scent lies down the Orny gl., and 
a path along the crest of the moraine 
on the 1. bank leads down to the 
Orny Club hut, 2,688 m., 8,819 ft. 
(1^ hr. from the Col du Tour. ) There 
are really two huts here near the 
ruined chapel ; the new one is the 
larger and the most comfortably fitted 
up. Hence there is at sunset a very 
striking view of the Grand Combin. 
Orsieres is 2 hrs. distant by the 
moraine, the Combe d'Orny, and the 
hamlet of Prassony, while the Lake 
of Champex (Rte. I) may be reached 
in 2 hrs. by the Col de la Breya 
(2,409 m, 7,904 ft.), the route to 
which quits that to Orsieres at the 
first little plain (that of Plan de 
VArche), and crosses the ridge bound- 
ing the Combe d'Orny on the N. 
Both paths are now marked out by 
patches of green paint. 

[The Qmy Ciub hut is a good 
centre from which to make several 



I ascents. The easiest is the Pointe 
d'Orny, 3,274 m., 10,742 ft. (1 hr. ) 
That of the Portalet (3,345 m., 
10,975 ft.), just opposite, may be 
made in 4 hrs. by a great couloir in 
its N.E. slope, but better in 2 J hrs. 
by way of the Col des Plines ; this is 
the best point whence to study the 
singularly intricate topography of this 
part of the Alpine chain. Rock- 
climbers may turn their attention to 
the Aiguille de la Varappe, 3.520 
m., 11,549 ft. (5 hrs.), or the Tete 
Biselx, 3,512 m., 11,523 ft. (5 hrs.), 

; the two highest summits of the 

I Aiguilles Dorees, E. of the Fenetre 
de Saleinaz. (There is a difficult 
descent from the former peak direct 
to the Saleinaz gl., achieved in 
1893 by Mr. V. A. Fynn, who in 
1892, with Mr. Murphy, traversed 
the whole ridge of the Aiguilles 
Dorees from the Varappe to the 
point above the Col des Plines. ) 
The Petite Fourche (3, 507 m. , T 1 , 506 

. ft.) at the $.W. corner of the Trient 
plateau, can be climbed from the Col 
du Tour by following the ridge all the 
way (3-J hrs. from Orny), but the 

• Grande Fourche (3,610 m., 11.844 
ft.) is best gained by an interesting 

, though not difficult climb in 4 hrs. 
from the Saleinaz Club hut by way of 
its rocky S.W. face. J 

To cross from the Trient plateau 
to the Saleinaz gl. and the Salei- 
naz Club hut there are two main 
passes. The Col des Plines, 3,243 m., 
10,640 ft. (the S. gap is the better of 

i the two), may be gained from Orny 
in \\ hr. , and the descent to the 
other Club hut, keeping W. of the 
Pointe des Plines, effected in i\ hr. 
The Portalet (3,345 m., 10,975 ft.) 
can be climbed (from the S. ) on the 
way (if hr. extra). But the Fenetre 
de Saleinaz (3,264m., 10,709 ft.), 
W. of the Aiguilles Dorees, affords 
by far the most striking route from 
one hut to the other, or even the most 
interesting descent from the Col du 
Tour to Orsieres. It is a narrow 

I opening in the shattered range of 

I aiguilles which fences in the S. side 



ROUTE M. CHAMONIX TO ORSIERES 393 



of the Trient plateau, and may be 
reached in 20 min. from the Col du 
Tour, or in 2 hrs. from Orny by way 
of the plateau. The scene exhibited 
from this singular gap (well named by 
Sir A. Wills the Fenetre de Saleinaz) 
is remarkable not for the distant view, 
but for the grand range of crags and 
aiguilles that enclose the head of 
the Saleinaz gl. The most promi- 
nent points are the Grande Fourche, 
the Aiguille d'Argentiere, the Aigvilie 
de la Neuvaz, the Tour Noir, the 
Grande Luis, and the Darrei (see 
below). A short descent down easy 
rocks, a steep snow slope, and a 
small glacier leads from the Fenetre 
to the neve of the Saleinaz gl. About 
\ hr. from the pass the traveller 
bound for the Club hut must bear to 
the 1. across the rocky spur coming 
down from the Aiguilles Dorees and 
traverse a sort of tunnel in order to 
reach by easy snow slopes the foot of 
the Pointe des Plines. From these 
slopes a fine view is gained of the range 
of the Aiguilles Dorees, just on the N. 
They consist of a succession of ruddy 
yellow pinnacles of great height, 
whose natural colour is enriched by 
their exposure to the full blaze of 
day, and they have therefore been 
happily named by Principal Forbes. 
From between the gaps in this range 
small tributary glaciers and ice 
couloirs stream down, and by con- 
trast heighten the effect of the scene. 
The 1. lateral moraine of the Salei- 
naz gl. is crossed, and then that 
gl. itself, so as to mount by a 
slope of stones (traces of a path) to 
the Club hut (25 min. from the 
gl., or 1 \ hr. from the Fenetre). 
(The Fenetre is a link in the high- 
level route from Lognan by the Col 
du Chardonnet to Orny and Orsieres, 
6-7 hrs. from Lognan to Orny. See 
Rte. L. ) From the hut the best way 
(the path is marked out in red paint) 
down to the Swiss Ferret valley is to 
pass below the E. end of the small 
Evole gl. , which overhangs the hut, 
and then, keeping at the foot of 
the great rock towers of the Clochers 



de Planer euse (2,810 m., 9,220 ft.), 
to descend on the r. bank of the 
gl. over smooth rocks (iron chains and 
some steps cut in the rock), finally (far 
below) crossing the moraine and 
stream from the gl. and passing 
through a forest on the 1. bank of 
the latter till the valley is reached at 
Praz de Fort (Rte. K). Orsieres is 
thence reached by the Col Ferret 
road in 2| hrs. from the hut. 

The Saleinaz Club hut (2,691 m., 
8,829 ft.) is just at the N. foot of 
the Pointe de Planereuse, and having 
been only built in 1893 nas a ^ tne 
latest and most improved fittings for 
such erections. It is an admirable 
centre whence to climb the neighbour- 
ing peaks, and it may be doubted 
whether, with the exception of the 
Montenvers (which is an inn), there 
is any other house in the range 
whence so many fine high peaks may 
be directly scaled. The E. and 
highest summit of the Darrei 
(3,515 m., 11,533 ft.) may be gained 
by the N. slope and the N.E. ridge 
in 3 hrs. from the hut, and commands 
a very interesting panorama, espe- 
cially to a topographer. The Grande 
Fourcke (3,610 m., 11,844 ft.) is 
accessible from the S.W. (4 hrs. ), the 
Grande Luis (3,504 m., 11,497 ft.) 
by the N.VV. ridge (2 J- hrs.), the 
Aiguille de la Varappe (3,520 m. , 
11,549 ft.) by a difficult climb from 
the S. (5 hrs.), the Aiguille 
d'Argentiere (3,907 m., 12,819 ft. ) 
by the great gully in its E. face 
(6 hrs. ), and the Aiguille du Char- 
donnet (3,822 m., 12,540 ft.) by way 
of the Col du Chardonnet (6-7 hrs.) 
As we have seen, the traveller can 
go from the hut to the Trient plateau 
by the Fenetre de Saleinaz, or by 
the Col des Plines, and to the 
Tour gl. by the Fenetre du Tour, 
while the Cols de la Neuvaz and the 
Col de la Grande Luis lead over 
to the La Neuvaz gl., so that the 
La Fouly huts, in the Val Ferret 
(Rte. K), may be thus attained from 
the Club hut in 6 or 7 hrs. A pleasant 
variation on the descent to Praz de 



394 PENNINE ALPS. § 17. SIXT AND CHAMPERY DISTRICT 



Fort by the usual path through the 
Saleinaz ravine is to mount slightly 
S.W. from the hut in 50 min. to the 
Col de Planereuse (3,034 rn., 
9.955 ft-), just S.W. of the Points de 
Planereuse, 3,153 m. , 10,345 ft. 
(accessible hence in f hr. ), and then 
to go down by the Planereuse 
gl. to the ruined chalets of that 
name, whence a path strikes off to 
the N.E. through a thick forest and 
descends to the Saleinaz huts in the 
Val Ferret (3J hrs. from the Col), 
\\ hr. from Orsieres. 



In concluding the description of 
the range of Mont Blanc, wherein the 
achievements of many ardent moun- 
taineers have been very briefly 
noticed, the Editor (J. B. ) may be 
permitted to make a single remark. 
Experienced travellers in the High 
Alps do not require, and would not 
heed, his advice ; but those who have 
not learned by considerable practice 
to cope with all the difficulties of ice- 
travelling and rock-climbing, and who 
are not assured that their companions 
and guides are equally prepared, 
should be warned that many of 
these expeditions involve very serious 
risk — risk that, in regard to some of 
them, can be but partially averted 
by skill and experience. Of the 
glacier passes that have been enume- 
rated none but the Col du Mont 
Tondu, the Col de Miage, the Col du 
Geant, the Col de Triolet, the Col 
du Chardonnet, the Col du Tour, the 
Fenetre de Saleinaz, the Col de 
Planereuse, and a few minor ones can 
be recommended to any but moun- 
taineers of some experience, even when 
undertaken with "favourable weather 
and trustworthy guides. 



SECTION 17. 

SIXT AND CHAMPERY DISTRICT. 

It has been remarked in the Intro- 
duction to Section 1 1 that the lime- 
stone ridges lying between Chambery 
and the valley of the Arve form an 
extension to the S.W. of the geo- 

j logical formations which characterise 
the range of the Bernese Alps. The 
connection is orographical as well as 

! geological, and the range of the Dent 
du Midi, the Buet, and the Rochers 
des Fiz supplies the link between 
them. It will be observed, as some- 
thing more than an accidental coin- 
cidence, that a nearly continuous line 
of valley extends from Grenoble to 
the Rhone near Martigny, and nearly 
follows the line of separation between 
the Secondary and the older rocks. 
This line of depression is marked by 
the Isere from Grenoble to Albert- 

\ ville, and by the Arly thence to 

! Megeve. Descending to the Arve, 

; and partly following that stream to 

: Servoz, it then mounts along the 
Diosaz torrent to the Col de Salenton, 
and, following the Eau Noire and 
the Trient, reaches the Rhone near 
Martigny. 

In the present Section we include 
the district lying, roughly speaking, 
between the line of the Arve, Eau 

! Noire, and Trient on the W., S., 
and S.E., the Rhone on the E., and 
the Lake of Geneva on the N. 

The continuous range of limestone 

; uplifted against the N.W. edge of the 
granitic peaks which form a chain 
traversing the whole of Switzerland 

; and Savoy is cut through by the 
Rhone at St. Maurice, and by the 

; Arve at Cluses. While in general it 
is a single chain, here it is double, 
for the soft Jurassic strata, which 
elsewhere are usually worn away to a 
slope, here rise in the Buet (3, 109 m. , 
10,201 ft.), the Pointe de Tanneverge 
(2,982 m., 9,784 ft.), and Tozir 
Sallieres (3,227 m., 10,588 ft.), and 
form the E. watershed of the Giffre ; 

I on the other hand, the much harder, 



§ i;. SIXT AND CHAMPERY DISTRICT 



395 



and more recent, Cretaceous lime- j 
stones form the range of the Rockers 
des Fiz (2,793 m -> 9 5 I ^4 ft.)? Vandru \ 
(2,672m., 8,767 ft.), Dents Blanches \ 
(2,682 m., 8,799 ft- ), and Dent du \ 
Midi (3,260 m., 10,696 ft.) This j 
outer chain is cut through by the Giffre 
in the gorge of Les Tines, just below | 
Sixt. The lower ridges, though occa- 
sionally parallel to the main range, 
are for the most part very irregular 
in their form and direction, a circum- 
stance which, perhaps, contributes to 
the variety of scenery for which the 
district is remarkable. 

The basin of Sixt, 14 m. long and 4 
or 5 wide, is enclosed between the 
two chains mentioned above, and 
forms the W. or French bit of the 
more Alpine part of the district. It 
is remarkable for the strong contrasts 
between its varied and rugged lime- 
stone peaks and precipices, and its 
rich meadows and luxuriant forests. 
The whole of it is included in that 
portion of Savoy neutralised in 181 5 
by the Congress of Vienna. The 
Swiss or E. bit of the Alpine part of 
the district consists mainly of the 
valley of Illiez or Champery, which j 
lies outside of, and parallel to, the 
outer limestone range ; it comprises 
also a triangle of high uplands, but- 
tressed in on the S.E. by a band of 
granitic peaks which overlook the 
Salvan-Vernayaz branch of the road 
to Chamonix. The mountaineering 
centres, therefore, are 5/^(757 m., 
2,484 ft.), Salvan (925 m., 3,035 
ft.), and Cha?npery (1,052 m. , 3,452 i 
ft.) Sixt has, perhaps, the finest ! 
scenery, Champery undoubtedly the 
largest inns, and Salvan certainly ! 
the best guides. The grand pano- 
ramic views gained from the Buet j 
and the Dent du Midi will always ! 
attract a large number of travellers, as 
either summit can be reached without 
danger or difficulty by any moderately j 
active walker. 

The larger half of the area included ! 
in this Section forms the Chablais, 
which, lies N.W. of a line drawn from 
pluses through Samoens and Champery ] 



to Monthey, is wholly subalpine. Its 
mountains are tame, and, although 
rich in pasturage and woodland, it 
offers much smaller attractions to the 
mountaineer than to the pedestrian. 
The rugged range of the Dents d'Oche, 
above the E. end of the Lake of 
Geneva, deserves a visit. 

For minute details as to the ranges 
described in outline in this Section 
see in general Joanne's ' Savoie ' 
(large edition, 1895), and Schaub 
and Briquet's ' Guide Pratique de 
l'Ascensionniste sur les Montagnes 
qui entourent le Lac de Geneve 
(3rd edition, 1893). For Sixt in par- 
ticular consult J. F. Albanis Beau- 
mont's ' Description des Alpes 
Grecques et Cottiennes ' (1806), 
vol. ii. Part ii. Chapter iv., and 
Sir Alfred Wills' 4 "The Eagle's 
Nest " in the Valley of Sixt ' (i860) ; 
for Salvan, YVagnon's ' Autour de 
Salvan ' (2nd edition, 1895) > anc ^ 
for Champery, Claparede's ' Cham- 
pery et le Val dTlliez ' (3rd edition, 
1893), Rambert's 'Ascensions et 
Flaneries ' (new edition, 1888), and 
Javelle's ' Souvenirs d'un Alpiniste ' 
(3rd edition, 1897). 



Route A. 

GENEVA TO SIXT BY TANINGES OR 
SAMOENS, 

There are good carriage roads from 
Geneva to Samoens, either by Anne- 
masse, St. Jeoire, and Taninges, or 
by Annemasse, Cluses, and the Col 
de Chatillon. Most travellers will, 
however, use the steam tramway 
from Annemasse to Samoens, or the 
railway to Cluses, on the Chamonix 
line (§ 16. Rte. A). A few tracks 
for pedestrians from Cluses to 
Samoens and Sixt are also indi- 
cated. 



396 PENNINE ALPS. § 17. SIXT AND CHAMPERY DISTRICT 



1 . By St. Jeoire. 

M. 

Bonne ... 9^ 
St. Jeoire . . 16^ 
Taninges . . 24^ 
Samoens . . . 31 

Steam tramway to Samoens, 31 m., 
about 3 hrs. ; thence good carriage 
road to Sixt, 4 m. A carriage from 
Sixt meets every train in summer. 

From Geneva the traveller may 
reach Annemasse (3f m.) either in 
^ nr. by the Chamonix railway (§ 16. 
Rte. A), which starts from the Eaux 
Vives station, on the S. bank of the 
Rhone, or in 40 min. by steam tram- 
way, which starts from the Cours de 
Rive. Both lines pass by Chene 
Bourg. 

From Annemasse the new steam 
tramw T ay runs S.E. past Bonne and 
Pont de Fillinges (for the road thence 
to Thonon see Rte. L. 1) to St. 
Jeoire, a small town on an affluent 
of the Risse. It w r as the birthplace 
of Sommeiller, one of the chief 
engineers of the Mont Cenis Tunnel. 

[Hence there is a tramway in 5 m. 
to Marignier, a station on the line to 
Chamonix, and a beautiful carriage 
road over the Col de Jambaz to 
Thonon (Rte. L. 2).J 

[The Mole (1,869 m., 6,132 ft.), an 
isolated conical peak, commanding a 
very fine panorama, rises just S. of 
St. Jeoire, between it and Bonneville. 
It may be ascended from St. Jeoire 
in 4 hrs. by w r ay of the Char huts, or 
in rather less time by La Tour, the 
Bovere huts, and the Petit Mole (1,518 
m., 4,981 ft.), where is a small inn 
(built by the French Alpine Club), 
I nr. by a good zigzag path below 
the highest point. The shortest way 
up the Mole (3^ hrs.) is from Bonne- 
ville (§ 16. Rte. A).] 

The tramway bears gradually E., 
runs along the N. side of the narrow 
gorge through which the Giffre 
escapes to join the Arve at Mari- 
gnier, and passes by Mieussy, before 
reaching 

Taninges (641 m., 2,103 ft.), a 
little town situated on the Foron, 



just above its junction with the GifTre. 

(For the fine carriage roads to 
Thonon see Rtes. L and M. ) It is 
picturesquely placed in view of the 
Buet, the most conspicuous object 
throughout the valley of the Giffre. 
I hr. S.E. of Taninges is the former 
Carthusian nunnery of Me lan, founded 
in 1292 by Beatrice, lady of Faucigny, 
but now used as a school. The line 
runs along the N. bank of the Giffre 
past Verchaix, the scenery becoming 
more and more Alpine as it nears 

Samoens (759 m., 2,490 ft.), in 
the midst of charming scenery. (For 
the ways to Thonon see Rte. M.) 
The fall of the N ant D ant (210 m., 
689 ft., in height) is only 20 min. off, 
and is worth a visit. The ascent of 
the Rockers de Criou (2,250 m. , 
7,382 ft., 4 hrs.), on the N.E., or of 
its highest point, the Pointe Rousse 
(2,577 m., 8,455 ft.), is specially 
recommended. For the walk by the 

I Croix de la Porte to Sixt see 3. 

, below. 

j The carriage road to Sixt runs 
j along the r. bank of the Giffre 
' through Vallon, in the plain, to the 
mouth of the narrow defile of Les 
Tines, through which the Giffre 
forces its way from the basin of Sixt. 
Near its entrance, but on the opposite 
bank, is seen the picturesque chapel 
of A T otre Dame des Graces. The 
GifTre has cut its way through the 
limestone range, forming a grand 
gorge. When this has been tra- 
versed the fine peaks that enclose 
the valley of Sixt come successively 
into sight, especially as the road 
I approaches 

Sixt (35 m. from Geneva), which 
\ the mountaineer will probably make 
; his headquarters. For a full de- 
| scription of Sixt and its neighbour- 
- hood see Rte. C. 

2. By CI uses and the Col de 
I Chdtillon. — Cluses is 29 \ m. distant 
j from Geneva by the railway to 
Chamonix (§ 16. Rte. A). A 
carriage road runs thence over the 
Colde Chdtillon (862 m., 2,828 ft.) in 
6J- m. to Taninges, where the steam 



ROUTE B. CLUSES, SALLANCHES, OR SERVOZ TO SIXT 397 



tramway described above is rejoined. 
The road rises steeply from Cluses 
(1,200 ft. in 4 J m.) to the Col, near 
which are the village and ruined 
castle of the same name. Hence 
there is a charming view over the 
Arve, Giffre, and Reposoir valleys. 
The descent to Taninges (725 ft. in 
2 m.) is less steep than the ascent 
from Cluses. If coming from St. 
Jeoire it is possible to go from 
Marignier by a direct road, which 
keeps above Cluses, nearly to the 
summit of the Col de Chatillon. 

3. By Cluses and Foot Paths. — Pe- 
destrians have a choice of several agree- 
able routes from Cluses over the hills 
between the Arve and Giffre valleys. 

Leaving the new high road 
to min. from Cluses, the old road 
leads in 1 hr. to the Col de Chatillon. 
Thence a side road runs S.E. past 
the hamlets of St. Sigis?)io7id and 
La Frasse to (5 m. ) Ardches, keeping 
at a level of about 3,000 ft., with a 
succession of charming views before 
the eyes. It is then necessary to 
bear S.E. to the Col de FAiron, and 
descend by Vercland to Samoens 
(9 hrs. from Cluses by this route). 

From La Frasse the traveller can 
cross the ridge N.W. of the Col de 
PAiron, and then traverse by paths in 
an E. direction a succession of spurs 
to the grassy knoll on which stands 
the Croix de la Porte (1,525 m. , 
5,003 ft.), directly overlooking Sixt. 
The village lies at his feet, backed 
by the Pointe de Tanneverge, while 
all the branches of the Sixt valley are 
well seen. The main Gers track must 
be left 10 min. from the Croix, in order 
to take a path which through beech 
woods rounds the hillside above the 
hamlet of Enti-e Deux Nants, and 
then descends to and crosses the 
Giffre at Faix, § m. by road from 
Sixt. 8 hrs. are required from 
Cluses to Sixt by this beautiful route. 



Route B. 

CLUSES, SALLANCHES, OR SERVOZ 
TO SIXT. 

Between Cluses and Servoz, in the 
Arve valley, there extends, on the E. 
and N., a great band of limestone 
precipices, forming three sides (each 
5 m. in length along the parapet) of a 
square which projects like a bastion 
from the base line Magland-Sixt. 
After passing Cluses the pedestrian 
bound for Sixt must (unless he rounds 
the bastion on the E. by the Col 
d'Anterne, Rte. D) pass these 
precipices twice, or evade them 
through one of the three breaches 
made by streams. These occur, one 
at Flaine, and two on the Sixt side, 
by the Gers and Salles glens. The 
breach at Flaine is choked up by a 
dam of old debris, forming a lake 
which drains underground to the 
Arve. The E. portion of the upland 
thus enclosed is the valley of Salles, 
famous for its rich pastures. W. of 
this stretches the remarkable lime- 
stone waste called the Desert de Plate 
(see 2. below). The starting points 
for the pedestrian in the Arve valley 
are Cluses, Sallanches, Servoz, or 
even St. Gervais. 

I. From Cluses by the Flaine and 
Gers Glens. — At the Chateau deBelle- 
garde, about 5 m. from Cluses, and 
1 m. beyond Magland, a path leaves 
the Arve valley at the bridge over the 
Arche torrent, and mounts E. to the 
steep, wooded hollow called the 
Creux de F Arche. Here it bifurcates. 
The I. -hand path ascends to the 
hamlet of Per?iant, and then along 
the N. bank of the N. and E. 
branches of the Arche past the 
Vernant lake to a pass, 2,100 m., 
6,890 ft. (called Col de Flaine on the 
French goJoo ma P? but better named 
Col des Grands Vents), N. of the 
Signal des Grands Vents (2,203 m -> 
7,228 ft.), and descends to the Gers 
glen ; here at the lake it is joined 
by the track (1 hr. longer) by Flaine. 
The r.-hand path mounts by the 



398 PENNINE ALPS. § 17. SIXT 



AND CHAMPERY DISTRICT 



S. bank of the Arche past La 
Colonnaz, and by zigzags in fine pine 
woods to the picturesque Lac de 
Flaine ^ formed by a gap choked up 
by debris, and drained by a subter- 
ranean channel (3J hrs. from Cluses). 
hr. higher are the Plaine Joux huts. 

[Hence a track leads N. to the Col 
des Grands Vents, already described. 
The Croix de Fer (2,317 m., 
7, 602 ft.) may be reached from these 
huts in 2 hrs. by the E. ridge, and the 
Tete or Pointe Pelonse (2,475 m -5 
8,120 ft.) in 2§ hrs. ; the latter com- 
mands a fine view of the Mont Blanc 
range, and in I hr. or so the traveller 
can descend from the top to the Gers 
or the Salles huts. 3 

From Plaine Joux a gradual rise by 
a faint track in an E. direction leads 
to the pass(^. 2,150 m., 7,054 ft.) on 
the N.W. of the Pointe Pelouse, 
which is called Col de Plate by the 
100000 French map, but should 
properly bear the name of Col de 
Flaine. An easy slope on the N. 
brings the traveller down to the 
Lac de Gers, in the glen of the same 
name, where the path from the Col 
des Grands Vents falls in. 

[The pretty Gers valley belongs to 
Morillon, W. of Samoens, either 
place being reached by a char road 
past the Croix de la Porte. J 

Steep bridle paths on either bank 
of the stream lead from the huts at 
the N. end of the lake to Sixt, which 
is reached by this route in 8 hrs. from 
Cluses. 

2. Fro?n Sallanches by the Desert 
de Plate. — The Desert de Plate is an 
extensive plateau of bare limestone, 
traversed by fissures and furrows in 
every direction, and resembling a 
petrified glacier or sea. Such pla- 
teaux are common features in lime- 
stone districts, being known in 
German as Karrenf elder , and in 
French as lapiaz. They are very 
wearisome to walk over, though 
curious to look at. The following 
routes pass on the outskirts of the 
Plate waste, as to which the mono- 
graphs by MM. Chaix and J. 



Briquet in the periodical * Le Globe ' 
(Geneva) for August 1895 should be 
consulted. 

(a. ) By the Cheminee and Col de 
Monthieux. — From St. Martin (sepa- 
rated only from. Sallanches by an 
old bridge, once celebrated for its 
view of Mont Blanc) it is necessary 
to mount N. through Peninge and 
over the fine forest slopes to the 
Arpay huts, where a path turns 
to the r., ascending the Haon 
ravine, above the torrent which enters 
the Arve valley by the well-known 
Cascade d'Arpenaz ( § 16. Rte. A). 
Hence an ascent of about 40 min. 
through pine woods leads to the 
Vers Haon (or Veron) huts (if hr. 
from St. Martin), which lie in a bay 
under the upper precipices, up which 
the only way is by a chimney, through 
which access is gained to the 
Monthieux sheep pastures. These 
pasturages terminate in the Col de 
Monthieux, between the Croix de 
Fer on the N., and the Pointe du 
Colloney on the S. These rise on the 
outer margin of the Desert de Plate, 
and are both easily accessible from 
the pass. To gain Sixt it is best to 
make straight over the N. rim of the 
Desert, either to the Col de Flaine 
(the most direct course), or to the low 
precipices overhanging the Salles 
glen, so reaching the huts in that 
valley, which are 2\ hrs. from Sixt 
by the Portettaz route (c. below). 
This way takes 8 hrs. from Sallanches 
to Sixt. 

(b. ) Over the Aiguille de Varens, or 
the Pointe du Colloney. — This is the 
mountaineer's route. The Aiguille 
de Varens (2,488 m., 8,163 ft.) im- 
mediately overhangs St. Martin and 
Sallanches on the E. From Sal- 
lanches the Varens huts, which lie 
close under the Aiguille, but on the 
S. side of the square of which it is 
the corner, may be reached in 3 hrs. 
by way oi juillard and Bay. A path 
leads thence direct up grass and shale 
slopes to the Barme Pousse huts, 
whence the summit may be gained in 
2 hrs. by a short rock climb. A 



ROUTE B. CLUSES, SALLANCHES, OR SERVOZ TO SIXT 399 



traverse path leads from the top in 
1 J hr. to the Plate huts, on the Por- 
tettaz route (c. below). The Pointe 
du Colloney (2,692 m., 8,832 ft.), 
the culminating point of the Plate 
group, and so fittingly crowned by a 
great cairn, can be gained from Sal- 
lanches in 5 hrs. by the Col de 
Monthieux (the easiest way), or in 
about the same time by following 
the route to the Aig. de Varens as 
far as the hollow at the E. base of 
that summit, then crossing the spur 
at the head of this hollow, traversing 
under the peak, and going up the 
N.E. ridge. It is easy to descend 
in about 1^ hr. to the Plate huts, on 
the Portettaz route (c. below). 

Both peaks command superb views 
of the Mont Blanc range, and could 
be taken in one day by an active 
climber. 

(c. ) By the E scalier s de Plate and 
the Portettaz. —The Escaliers de Plate 
are a staircase for cattle, laboriously 
built up the face of the cliffs of the 
S. spur of the Pointe de Plate. They 
lead to a bleak basin where are the 
Plate huts (3-3^ hrs. from the Arve 
valley). 

They may be approached from 
various points in the Arve valley be- 
tween Sallanches and Servoz. Below 
the tier of limestone cliffs (broken 
only by the ruins of the historic land- 
slip of 1 751) stretches a long terrace, 
gently sloping upwards from the 
hamlet of Villy, above St. Martin, to 
the alp of Ayer, above Servoz. It is 
raised above the valley on steep 
slopes, clothed in vineyards where 
the sun strikes through the opening 
of the St. Gervais valley opposite, 
elsewhere in dense forests. The ter- 
race is itself, in its lower portion, 
covered with meadows, fields, and 
orchards. Beyond the stream flowing 
from the Plate cirque it offers a suc- 
cession of level meadows, ringed 
by beech and fir woods, which frame 
most beautiful views of Mont Blanc 
and the Servoz valley. 

A cart track mounting from im- 
mediately opposite St. Gervais-les- 



Bains leads up past Passy (famous 
for its Roman inscriptions, now 
built into the walls of the church, 
and for its fruit, which is sent 
even to the Paris markets). A light 
carriage can be taken without diffi- 
culty as far as the bridge over the 
Marlioz torrent. The cart track 
continues through forest to the Plaine 
Joux, a superb view-point, whence 
an easy foot path leads to the Ayer 
huts, on the Col d'Anterne route 
(Rte. D). A cart track on a much 
lower level leads from Chedde direct 
to these huts, passing within 100 yards 
of one of the most romantic tarns in 
the Alps, formed by the great land- 
slip. The tarn is marked, but the 
road is not, on the French map. A 
direct foot track from the Plaine Joux 
to Servoz passes by this tarn. 

The route from Sallanches to the 
Escaliers is to mount direct from St. 
Martin to the terrace, and then to 
follow the upper cart tracks and foot 
paths that traverse it until, just before 
reaching the torrent near Assy, a 
broad path climbing steeply up- 
wards is met. From St. Gervais the 
traveller, immediately after crossing 
the Arve, should leave the Chedde 
road and take a lane to the 1. Ar- 
rived at the bottom of the hillside, 
he may either follow the very beau- 
tiful road through Passy, or climb 
more directly by meadow paths until 
he rejoins it on the terrace near Assy. 

From Servoz it is best to take a 
boy to show the rather obscure trail 
to the Plaine Joux. Thence follow 
the slightly descending cart road to 
the enchanting meadow known as the 
Pre Coutens. From its upper end a 
sledge track leads up the 1. bank of 
the Marlioz torrent, and joins the 
Assy track near the foot of the cliffs. 

It is obvious that these approaches 
admit of being used in conjunction 
as excursions from the Arve valley, 
or afford a high-level descent from 
the Col d'Anterne to St. Martin and 
Sallanches, which commands a series 
of pictures hardly equalled in the 
Alps. It should also be noted that 



400 PENNINE ALPS. § 17. SIXT AND CHAMPERY DISTRICT 



these routes are better taken from 
Sixt than in the reverse direction. 

Having reached the Plate huts by 
one or other of these routes it is only 
necessary to mount straight N. to 
the Portettaz, 2,384 m., 7,822 ft. 
(40 min. ), which is seen from the 
huts. It is the 1. -hand one of two gaps 
in the brown rock ridge N.E. of the 
huts. Hence there is a very fine 
view, though this may be extended 
by climbing in 1 hr. to the top of the 
Pointe de Plate (2,553 m., 8,376 ft.) 
The track leads over pastures in a 
N.E. direction from the Portettaz to 
a gap in the low cliffs that overlook 
the Salles glen, by means of which 
the Salles huts (1,890 m., 6,201 ft.) 
are gained. These are 2.\ hrs. from 
Sixt by a path which passes through 
a grand defile between great preci- 
pices. The stream makes three fine 
waterfalls, and in one place the path 
is blasted through the rock. The 
third fall, La Pleuretise, springs from 
the junction of the Lower Cretaceous 
with the Jurassic strata, and here the 
old path from Chamonix over the 
Collet d'Anterne falls in (Rte. D). 
30 min. below is the beautiful Rou- 
get waterfall, which descends in two 
bounds on its way to join the Giffre 
Haut. In 20 min. more the Pont de 
Salles is crossed to Salvagny, 20 min. 
from Sixt by char road. 

7-9 hrs. are required from the 
Arve valley to Sixt by this route. 

3. From Servoz by the Col du 
Derochoir. — This is the shortest way 
from Servoz to Sixt, about 6J- hrs. 
only being required. Servoz (see 
§ 16. Rte. A) is on the old road from 
Sallanches to Chamonix being 7 J m. 
from Chamonix and 9 m. from Sallan- 
ches. From Servoz the Col d'Anterne 
mule path (Rte. D) is followed to 
the Ayer huts. Hence the path runs 
N.W. up grass, shales, and debris, the 
remains of the great rock fall of 175 1, 
when something like a hundred mil- 
lion tons of cliff are said to have fallen 
down. The fall filled the valley with 
such a cloud of dust that it was 
rumoured a volcanic outburst had 



taken place, and the savant Donati 
was sent from Turin to ascertain the 
nature of the catastrophe. The 
relics of this great fall reach to within 
200 ft. of the lowest gap (2,238 m., 
7,343 ft.) in the ridge, but it is easier 
to aim at a point further W. , and 
about 200 ft. higher, following a band 
on the rocks. The descent to the 
Salles huts (2. c. above) is straightfor- 
ward and gradual. 



Route C. 

SIXT AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD. 

The chief, or church, hamlet of the 
valley of Sixt is locally called 
' PAbbaye,' from the religious house 
founded there in 1144 by Ponce of 
Faucigny, son of the lord of 
Faucigny, and brother of the bishop 
of Geneva. As the abbey of 
Abondance was becoming over- 
crowded, Ponce led a colony thence 
to Sixt and placed it under the same 
rule, that of Austin Canons Regular. 
It was secularized in 1793, an d the 
seventeenth-century buildings are now 
used as an hotel, one of the most 
interesting of its kind. In the 
churchyard is buried Albanis Beau- 
mont (d. 181 1 ), who long lived here, 
and in 1806 published a full account 
of the valley. 

Sixt is beautifully situated at a 
height of 757 m. (2,484 ft.), just 
above the junction of the two Giffres, 
and under the cliffs of the Criou, 
with a southern aspect. The Giffre 
Bas and the Giffre Haut drain the 
two main branches of the valley. 
The Giffre Bas flows S.W. from the 
grand amphitheatre of precipitous 
peaks that enclose the chief arm of 
the valley, called the Fer a Cheval 
and Fond de la Combe. The Giffre 
Haut descends to the N.W. from the 
hollow of Les Fonds, at the foot of 
the Buet, receiving affluents from the 



ROUTE C. SIXT AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD 401 



Anterne, Salles, and Gers glens. 
Few places in the Alps offer greater 
attractions to the mountaineer who 
can dispense for a time with snow 
and ice, by reason of the variety and 
beauty of the scenery in the neigh- 
bourhood. First brought to the 
notice of travellers by the works of 
Albanis Beaumont, and of Sir Alfred 
Wills (mentioned in the Introduction 
to this Section), it has since become 
more widely known, particularly 
among the Genevese, for whom it is 
very easy of access. The valley is 
specially famed for its waterfalls, and 
remarkable for its precipices, its rich 
and wide-spreading pastures, and its 
fine forests, with luxuriant under- 
growth. Pasture land is, indeed, so 
abundant that some of the ' alps 5 
have been sold, and others are but 
half used, while arable land in the 
valley commands a fancy price. 

It will be convenient to describe 
the excursions to be made from Sixt 
under three heads — easy walks, fine 
points of view, and higher peaks. 

1. Easy Walks. 

(a) The Fer a Cheval. — This is 
the first and obligatory excursion at 
Sixt, especially if it is not intended 
to cross any of the rather laborious 
passes from the head of the glen 
(Rtes. F. and G). It is a very fine 
specimen of the cirques which are 
more common in the limestone dis- 
tricts of the Pyrenees than in those 
of the Alps. Its floor is girt about 
with beech woods, while its cliffs are 
for the most part inaccessible, and so 
form the political frontier. A char 
road leads from the village along the 
r. bank of the Giffre Bas to the Pont 
(TEau Rouge (1 hr. ), 5 min. beyond 
which it comes to an end at a little 
inn, recently enlarged. The mule 
path (passable also for carts) runs in 
\ hr. to the Croix de Pellys. The 
r.-hand track leads hence to the 
hamlet of Les Pellys, and the 1. -hand 
one to the chapel of Entre Deux 
Nants (10 min.), whither every May 
the inhabitants of the valley make a 
pilgrimage in memory of the dreadful 

I. 



landslip of 1602, which destroyed the 
village of that name, killing 157 
persons. A few minutes further is a 
little level spot, called Plan des Lacs K 
This is the centre of the Fer a 
Cheval, a semicircular hollow sur-. 
rounded by precipitous walls of rock, 
which are surmounted by a range of 
snow-seamed peaks. The highest of 
these (the actual summit is invisible) 
is the Pointe de Tanneverge (2^982 m. , 
9,784 ft.), seen on the L ; the point 
seen to the r. is the Tete Noire 
(2,139 m. , 7,018 ft.), a great, spur of 
the Grenairon. A series of waterfalls, 
issuing from the small glaciers that 
lie under the ridge, descend the face 
of the precipice, and add to the 
singularity of the scene. Above the 
first range of precipices, on a shelf of 
the mountain range scarcely noticed 
from below (on the way to the Col de 
Tanneverge, Rte. F), are some Alpine 
pastures, which, though geogra- 
phically belonging to Sixt, are yet so 
difficult of access on this side for 
animals, that shepherds from Salvan, 
on the other side of the range, long 
ago occupied them, and they are still 
held by the commune of Salvan, 
though the g^ooo French Government 
Map (here contradicting the Swiss 
map) oddly makes them part of Sixt 
still. Beyond the Fer a Cheval the 
narrow and gloomy Fond de la Co?nbe 
(Rte. G) extends for about 4 m. to 
the N.E. , enclosed between rugged 
j and precipitous mountains, over which 
! lead the passes described in Rte. G. 

below. It is so well walled in on 
I either side that the hay which is cut 
I on the ledges of these mountains, 
I often reached by a perilous climb, is 
commonly made up in bundles, and 
rolled over the precipices, to be 
gathered anew on the lower slopes, 
where it may have lodged. As in 
Switzerland, fatal accidents not un- 
commonly befall these bold 1 Wild- 
heuer. ' 

(b) The Gers Glen. — It is a pleasant 
walk of 3 hrs. up the Gers glen to 
the pretty lake of that name, there 
being a bridle path all the way. 

D D 



4 02 PENNINE ALPS. § 17. SIXT 



AND CHAMPERY DISTRICT 



(Hence the Tete Pelouse (2,475 m -> 
8,120 ft.), a very fine point of view, 
can be ascended in 2.\ hrs. by easy 
slopes.; it can also be reached from the 
Salles or the Elaine glens, Rte. B. ) 
In the same excursion a traveller may 
include a visit to the Croix de la 
Porte, 1,525 m., 5,003 ft. (accessible 
direct from Sixt in 2 J hrs.), a cross 
standing on a wooded knoll which 
forms the N. end of the Grands 
Vents ridge, and overlooks Sixt, on 
the N.E. The return may be made 
by the very beautiful char road 
through beech woods from the Gers 
huts to the road between Samoens 
and Sixt. Pedestrians may find 
many other tracks. 

(c) The Ronget and Pleureuse 
Waterfalls. — These are both in the 
Salles glen, described in Rte. B. 

(d) The Tes Ponds Hollow. — This 
is a much to be recommended ex- 
cursion. It is fully described in 
E.te. D. 

2. Fine Points of View. 

(a) The Collet d* Ant erne, — This 
point (1,799 m. , 5,902 ft.) may be 
reached in 3 hrs. from Sixt. Over it 
passed the old route from Sixt to 
Chamonix (Rte. D). The return may 
be made by the rock shelf of La 
Verriere and the Signal d'Anterne 
(2,076 m. , 6,811 ft.) to the Grasses 
Chevres pastures and so to Les Fonds. 

(b) The Croix de Commune. — 
This is an admirable spot whence to 
view the precipices of the Fer a 
Cheval. There are many charming 
ways to it. The best, perhaps, is to 
follow the Fer a Cheval route (1. 
above) to the hamlet of Les Pellys 
(\\ hr. ), and thence to mount S.W. 
through woods to the Commune huts 
(ij hr.) The cross (1,932 m., 6,339 
ft.) is \ hr. from the huts, above 
and to the 1. of them. The return 
to Sixt may be made past the 
Mouillette huts, by a path which 
descends through Passy to the stone 
bridge over the Giffre. This round 
will take 5-6 hrs. from Sixt and back. 

(c) The Pointe de Sambet. — From 
Sixt it is best to follow the road to 



the Fer a Cheval for \ hr. , then take 
a path to the 1. through the woods, 
which passes the Lower Salvadon huts 
(ijhr.) When within \ hr. of the 
Upper Salvadon huts (1 hr. further 
on) it is necessary to keep straight up 
to the E., and so gain the top (2,234 
m., 7,330 ft.) in ijhr. 
3. Higher Peaks. 

(a) The Vaudru, or Les Avandmes. 
— The route of the Pointe de Sambet 
is followed through the Salvadon glen, 
the Upper huts being gained in 2f 
hrs. from Sixt. The top (2,672 m., 
S,y6"j ft.) is thence reached in 2 J hrs. 
by means of the ridge between it and 
the Sambet, and some steep rocks at 
the end. 

(b) Pointe de Tanneverge (2,982 m. , 
9,784 ft.) — This peak is most easily 
reached by its S.E. ridge in 2 hrs. 
from the Col de Tanneverge (Rte. F). 
There is a more interesting way from 
the Croix Moccand (2 hrs. below 
the pass) to the S.E. ridge. This 
short cut saves f- hr., but requires 
local knowledge, as three traverses to 
the r. on the triple rock band of the 
peak are required. 

A very long way (useful only when 
traversing the peak to or from Cham- 
pery) is that from the Col de Sagerou 
(6 hrs. ), discovered in 1864 by Sir 
Alfred Wills. It is best to spend 
the previous night at the Vogealle 
chalets or the Salanfe inn. From the 
Col the Mont Ruan gl. is gained by 
climbing up the middle of a steep 
rock face, and then traversing in a S. 
direction till a gully (or better the 
rocks on its r. ) leads up a great rock 
spur, coming down from the Mont 
Ruan, to the Prazon gl., by which 
the summit is attained without any 
further difficulty. 

(c) Mont Ruan. — This peak (3,078 
m. , 10,099 ft.) is best attained 
(as pointed out in Rte. F) from 
the Barberine Club hut on the S., or 
the Salanfe inns on the N. If it be 
desired to reach it from Sixt it is 
necessary from the Col de Sagerou to 
follow the way just described to the 
Mont Ruan gl. (at the foot of which 



ROUTE D. SIXT TO CHAMONIX BY COL D'ANTERNE 403 



Jacques Balmat, the couqueror of 
Mont Blanc, lost his life in Sep- 
tember 1854, while searching for 
gold) and the spur between it and 
the Prazon gl. , from the top of which, 
keeping an E. direction over snow, 
the summit is gained in 4^ hrs. from 
the Col. 

(d) The Buet (3,109m., 10,201 ft.) 
is fully described in Rte. E, below. 

(e) Pointe de Salles (2,494 m., 
8,183 ft.) — This is the magnificent 
summit which dominates Sixt on the 
S. It may be easily ascended in 
2 hrs. from the Salles huts by grass 
slopes and stones. Lovers of rock- 
climbing will prefer to make the ascent 
from the E. (perhaps sleeping at the 
Anterne huts), which takes about 
6 hrs. from Sixt. It is necessary to gain 
by nicely-stepped grass slopes the N. 
arete, just N. of a deep notch cut in 
it. The N. ridge is climbed first on 
its W. , then on its E. side, the W. 
slope being finally regained again 
after passing through a sort of tunnel. 
Hence a ledge enables the climber to 
circle round a great rock cirque, 
beyond which a gully leads to the 
easy part of the W. face, not far from 
the summit. 

The Pointe de Salles is really the 
N. end of the great precipices of the 
Fiz range. The highest point of 
these is the Tete a PA?ie (2,793 m -> 
9,164 ft.), which may be gained in 
I hr. from the Pointe de Salles along 
the crest of the ridge, and naturally 
commands a more extensive view. 



Route D. 

SIXT TO CHAMONIX BY THE COL 
D'ANTERNE. 

Mule path ; 9! hrs. 

This is a walk that can be most 
highly recommended, as there is an 
excellent mule path the whole way, 



while the views obtained at various 
points en route , especially from the 
Col d'Anterne and the Col du 
Brevent, have few rivals in the Alps. 
Toppffer's famous account of the Col 
d'Anterne is known to lovers of 
Alpine literature. 

Leaving Sixt by the new stone 
bridge over the Giffre Bas, the char 
road mounts gradually across the 
lower slopes of one of the buttresses 
of the Grenairon to Salvagny (ij- 
m. ), the other chief village in the 
valley of Sixt. Immediately after 
leaving Salvagny the foot path crosses 
the wide channel of the Nant Sec. 
This can be converted by half an 
hour's heavy rain into the bed of 
an impassable torrent, for the curious 
fan-shaped slabs of rock (many acres 
in extent) which lie above it on the 
slopes of the Grenairon serve as 
a collecting ground for the rain. 
Beyond the torrent it is necessary to 
follow the 1. -hand path, which ascends 
1,000 ft. to the Croix d Esperit 
(f hr.), passing through pine forests 
with lovely moss and fern growth. 

[The r.-hand path leads to the 
Pont de Salles and Pleureuse water- 
fall (see Rte. B. 2. c), and marks 
the direction of the old mule path 
across the Col d'Anterne. This 
strikes up a sloping shelf of pasture 
under the grand precipices of the 
N.W. buttress of the Pointe de 
Salles, passes the Collet d'Aftteme 
(1,799 m -> 6,902 ft.) (3 hrs. from 
Sixt), and then ascends gradually 
over the Plateau d'Anterne past the 
Anterne huts, to join the new path 
near the Lac d'Anterne. 4| hrs. are 
required from Sixt to the Col 
d'Anterne by this track, now but 
little used.] 

From the Croix the path leads 
horizontally for f m. through fir 
woods, with fine glimpses of the 
Salles glen and the Rouget waterfall, 
to the Selire huts. Opposite is the 
fine fall of the Anterne torrent, called 
Joux Bas, and on the r. is the 
great cliff of the Collet d'Anterns, the 
curved strata on the W. side of which 
D D 2 



4 o 4 PENNINE ALPS. § 17. SIXT AND CHAMPERY DISTRICT 



form the gorge called Pes Faucilles. 
In 1 J hr. from Sixt two groups of the 
Frassettes huts are passed, and then 
a grassy knoll is reached, whence a 
striking view of the precipices of the 
Buet is obtained. On a wooded 
mound above the fork of the main 
stream is seen the ' Eagle's Nest. ' 
This is the summer residence of Mr. 
Justice Wills, who built it in 1859. 
From this knoll the path in 10 min. 
reaches the bridge over the stream at 
the foot of the mound on which lie 
the Fonds chalets, and in 10 min. 
more the huts (1,381 m., 4,531 ft. ) 
are gained (if hr. from Sixt). 5 
min. beyond, a branch path to the 
L marks the way to the Buet (Rte. 
E. 1), but the traveller bound for the 
Col d'Anterne must continue by the 
mule path at a level S.E. to the 
bridge over the Fonds torrent. 
Hence it mounts in zigzags in a 
W.S.W. direction to the (50 min.) 
Grasses Chtvres (1,707 m. , 5,601 ft.), 
a shoulder of rich pasture with 3 or 
4 ruined huts on it. This com- 
mands views of great beauty down 
the valley, and is clothed, from a 
height of 5,400 ft. down to the Giffre 
Haut, on the N. , and the Anterne 
torrent on the W. , with magnificent 
forests of fine timber, remarkable for 
the richness of the undergrowth. 
The path doubles back again S.E. 
up the grassy shoulder to the ' SigndV 
or * Bas du Col d'Anterne ' (2,076 m. , 
6,811 ft.), 3ihrs. from Sixt. 1 This 
is the abrupt edge of the rolling 
moorland of Anterne {Plateau 
d'Anterne), over which the path runs 
level to a point overlooking the Lac 
d'Anterne (2,040 m., 6,693 ft«)> a 
dark blue tarn which lies in a hollow 
to the W., 200 ft. below the spec- 
tator. On the way from the Plateau 
to Servoz the track passes in 
succession the Mesozoic and Carboni- 

1 The Carte Vicinale (yooVoo)j pub- 
lished by the Ministry of the Interior in 
1888, marks the mule path as going from the 
Grasses Chevres up the rock shelf of La 
Verriere, and past the Anterne huts to the 
lake. There is a track this way, but no 
mule path. 



ferous formations, and the geologist 
will be pleased to find fossils in 
greater abundance than is usual in 
the High Alps. The Col d'Anterne 
(2,263 m -j 7>4 2 5 ft.) is reached in/25 
min. from the lake by a gradual 
ascent (4! hrs. from Sixt). 

Here a magnificent view of the 
whole chain of Mont Blanc bursts 
suddenly on the eyes of the traveller. 
Mont Blanc himself, 1 1 miles distant, 
lies right e?i face, the rounded summit 
in the immediate foreground being 
the Pointe Noire de Porme?iaz (2,334 
m., 7,658 ft.) On the 1. is the 
Brevent range, stretching away north- 
wards to the Aiguilles Rouges, and 
making a dark foreground to the 
great Chamonix Aiguilles from the 
Midi to the Verte. On the r. the 
chain of Mont Blanc trends away to 
the S.W., while to the W. rise the 
hills round Albertville. 

From the Col the mule path de- 
scends for 10 min., when it branches. 
Here the ways to Chamonix and to 
Servoz divide. 

(a) To Chamonix. — Take the /.- 
hand branch which passes by the 
Moede chalets, crosses the Diosaz tor- 
rent 1,700 ft. below the Col, and after 
passing the Arlevaz huts (if hr. from 
the Col) mounts steeply to the Col du 
Prevent (if hr.), 6,975 ft., some 
way to the N. E. of the peak of the 
Brevent. Hence it descends steeply 
to the inn of Planpraz, J hr. (§ 16. 
Rte. A. no. 9), and follows the steep 
zigzags down to Chamonix (1 hr. ), 
which is thus reached in 9| hrs. 
from Sixt by a most lovely route. 

The whole Diosaz valley, above the 
gorge at its lower end, is open moor- 
land ; the rock is granite on the 
Aiguilles Rouges and Brevent side, 
as' well as over the whole of the 
Pointe Noire de Pormenaz. This 
joins the limestone of the Col d'An- 
terne-Buet range at the bottom of the 
valley. The Trias and Lias are re- 
presented by two comparatively thin 
bands, whose outcrop is on the steep 
N. W. declivity of the valley. Near the 
junction of the Carboniferous strata 



ROUTE E. SIXT TO ARGENTIERE OR CHAMONIX 405 



with the Trias fossil plants are abund- 
ant. In 1 86 1 Sir Alfred Wills, 
guided by Auguste Balmat, found un- 
usually fine specimens on the slopes 
above the Moede chalets. About an 
hour above the Arlevaz huts are some 
extremely fine examples of former 
glacial action. The ' roches mouton- 
nees' are most typical, and the longi- 
tudinal scoring of their sides is in 
most wonderful perfection. The main 
direction of the glacial flow from the 
Aiguille Verte across the Brevent 
range is clearly shown. To any one 
interested in the subject the Lac 
Cornu (Rte. F. 4) and its surround- 
ings are well worth a visit. 

{b) To Servoz. — Take the r. -hand 
path, which runs due W. under the 
towering precipices of the Rochers 
des Fiz, till near the Ayer huts, high 
above the r. bank of the Diosaz. 
Leave these to the r. , and descend 
S. to the hamlet of Le Mont, either 
directly, or by a less steep way past 
the village of La Cote (a slight 
detour). In a few minutes more 
Servoz is reached (2f hrs. from the 
Col d'Anterne, or 7J hrs. from Sixt). 
Hence it is m. by carriage road to 
Chamonix (Rte. 16. A). 

The traveller bound to St. Gervais 
or Sallanches may traverse by a level 
path from the chalets of Ayer to the 
Plaine Joux, and thence descend to 
Passy by a most agreeable and shady 
cart track (see Rte. B. 2. c). 



Route E. 

SIXT TO ARGENTIERE OR CHAMONIX 
BY THE BIJET OR THE AIGUILLES 
ROUGES. 

It is a remarkable fact that, for 
topographical reasons, there is not a 
single direct passage from the Sixt 
valley to that of Chamonix. Between 
them lies the deep-cut glen of Diosaz, 



while at the -N. head of that glen 
rises the Buet, a descent from which 
leads not to the Arve, but to the 
Trient valley. Thus two passes, or a 
peak and a pass, must be traversed by 
a traveller on his way from Sixt to 
Chamonix. Many travellers will pre- 
fer to take the mule path over the 
Cols d'Anterne and du Brevent, de- 
scribed in the last Rte. But in fine 
weather an active walker should not 
fail to take the Buet or the Belvedere 
on his way, while there are various 
passes in the range (commonly called 
the Aiguilles Rouges range) running 
from the Buet to the Brevent which 
may attract those who like more un- 
frequented tracks. 

1. By the Buet. — The Buet (3,109 
m., 10,201 ft.) is the highest point in 
the ranges between Sixt and Cha- 
monix, and, as its ascent offers no 
difficulty, it attracted the attention of 
all the early travellers who explored 
the neighbourhood of Sixt or of 
Chamonix. It was, in fact, the third 
snowy peak in the Alps to be con- 
quered by man, the Rochemelon, near 
Susa, in the fourteenth century, and 
the Titlis, in 1739 or 1744, having 
been its only predecessors. In 1770 
the brothers Deluc ascended the Buet 
from the Sixt side, and in 1775 Bourrit 
discovered a new route from the Pierre 
a Berard, by which in the following 
year Saussure himself reached the 
summit. On the other hand the Buet 
has a more unenviable notoriety as 
the scene, in 1800, of the first recorded 
fatal accident to a traveller in the 
High Alps, Monsieur F. A. Eschen 
(who is commemorated by a monu- 
ment near the bridge over the Diosaz, 
close to Servoz) having then lost his 
life in one of its crevasses. Hence the 
Buet deserved to have its early history 
written, and this has been done by 
Mr. D. W. Freshfield in the 9th 
volume of the * Alpine Journal. ' 

Most mountaineers who visit both 
Sixt and Chamonix take the Buet on 
their way between those two places. 
But, as this is a long day of 10 or 
I 11 hrs., it is usual to sleep at the 



4 o6 PENNINE ALPS. § 17. SIXT AND CHAMPERY DISTRICT 



little inn at Les Fonds (if hr.-j if 
coming from Sixt, or at the Pierre a 
Berard inn, if coming from Chamonix. 
There is also in this way a better 
chance of obtaining a good morning 
view from the summit. The ascent 
is, considering the height of the 
mountain, very easy, and a single 
guide is sufficient for a party of 
several travellers moderately well 
used to mountain expeditions. The 
usual route just avoids the Col de 
Lechaud and the Col de Salenton, so 
that, if the weather should appear un- 
favourable for the ascent, the traveller 
may reach Chamonix direct by these 
passes (see 2. below). The ordinary 
route up the Buet mounts from Sixt 
by the Fonds glen, and descends to 
Chamonix by the Pierre a Berard inn 
and Argentiere. 

From Sixt the chalets of Les Fonds 
are reached in if hr. by the Col 
d'Anterne mule path, described in the 
last Rte. Five minutes beyond them 
it is necessary to leave the mule 
path for a track which crosses and 
recrosses the Fonds torrent, then 
mounts steeply by zigzags up the more 
southerly of two brushwood-covered 
ridges which descend from the Beaux 
Pres pasture basin, just below the 
Col de Lechaud. This basin is gained 
in ij hr. from les Fonds, and the pass 
(2,283 m -j 7A9° ft-) is 35 mm - fur- 
ther on by grass and shale (3f hrs. 
from Sixt). The way up the Buet 
bears N. (avoiding the pass) across the 
basin, and mounts N.W. up the edge 
of the highest grass slopes to a bare 
hump where the spur of Les Carres 
joins the main S. W. ridge. Here the 
remains of the Baux glacier are 
traversed for a short distance, then 
the main S.W. ridge regained by a 
stony bank, and followed past the 
small Cabane Pictet (230 ft. below 
the summit) and the cairn to the top, 
about 2 hrs. from the Beaux Pres. 
.(It is possible to follow the ridge, or 
its E. face, from the Col de Lechaud 
to the top in about 2J hrs. ) 5 J-6 hrs. 
are thus required from Sixt. 

[Two more direct routes, fit only 



for good climbers, may be briefly in- 
dicated. One mounts from the point 
at which the Buet track leaves the 
Chamonix mule track, 5 min. from 
the Fonds huts, through fir woods, 
and past the buttress of Les Carres, 
to the 4 Cheminee de Daniel,' and up 
this to its junction with the main 
S.W. ridge at the hump noted above. 
The other by the Belleface pastures 
and the ' Couloir de la Lionne ' 
leads up to the Baux glacier. J 

The beauty and grandeur of the 
panorama from the Buet can scarcely 
be exaggerated, though some com- 
petent judges rank that from the Belve- 
dere as little, if at all, inferior. The 
height of the Buet (3,109 m., 10,201 
ft. ) raises it above the nearer ranges, 
yet leaves in full grandeur the great 
mass of Mont Blanc, rising 1,700 m. 
( 5 , 5 7 8 ft. ) above the spectator. To the 
mountaineer who approaches Mont 
Blanc from the N. the ascent of the 
Buet from Sixt has the great advan- 
tage of giving him at once the most 
complete general view of the entire 
range, and by descending to Chamonix 
he will be able to fill in the details of 
a picture that will remain inefTaceably 
impressed on his memory. 

The descent towards Chamonix is 
usually made by the S.E. face to the 
Pierre a Berard inn, a route always 
chosen for the ascent from that side. 
It starts from the cairn, a little below 
the summit on the ridge running down 
to the Col de Salenton, and lies over 
easy snow and shale to the Berard 
glen, striking the route from the Col 
de Salenton about 300 ft. below that 
pass. After descending about 1,800 ft. , 
the traveller reaches a curious rock, 
naturally broken into ledges which 
form convenient seats, called the 
6 Table au Chantref a name given to 
it in honour of Bourrit, who made 
the first ascent from this side in 1775, 
and who was Precentor of the former 
Cathedral church of Geneva. \ hr. 
below this (ij-if hr. from the top, 
3 hrs. up) is the Pierre a Berard 
(1,930 m., 6,332 ft.), a huge de- 
tached rock. Near it is a little inn. 



ROUTE E. SIXT TO ARGENTIERE OR CHAMONIX 407 



(For the Col de Berard and the route 
up the Belvedere, see 3. below.) 
Hence a mule path is carried down 
the side of the mountain above the 1. 
bank of the Bei'ard torrent, till, after 
passing a grove of larches, it reaches 
a little grassy plain. Lower down 
the track winds amidst huge blocks 
of protogine, passes first near the fine 
Berard waterfall (crossing here to the 
r. bank), and then reaches the hamlet 
of La Poyaz^ where it bears r. and 
joins the frequented high road from 
the Tete Noire to Chamonix ( 1 hr. ) 
(§16. Rte. H), close to the watershed 
between the Eau Noire and Arve 
valleys. This point is 4 m. from 
Argentiere, or 10 m. from Chamonix. 

[A harder route is to descend from 
the S.E. arete of the Buet to the gl. 
on the N. , and so go through the 
Entre les Eves glen to the high 
road.] 

If bound for Vallorcine or places 
beyond, bear 1. at La Poyaz to the 
high road. Finhaut may be reached 
from the top of the Buet over the 
peak of the Cheval Blanc (2,841 m. , 
9,321 ft.), the Col du Vieux, and the 
Col de la Gueula (Rte. F), a fine but 
long route. Another very fine but 
long route to Chamonix is to descend 
from the Buet to the Col de Salenton 
by the S.E. ridge (or to any spot 
between that Col and the Col 
de Lechaud), then to follow a 
faintly marked track to the Barme 
hut, and thence either to cross by the 
Lac Cornu (4. below) or, more 
directly, by the Col de la Flegere, 
further N., and to the S. of the Aig. 
de la Gliere of the French map, to the 
Flegere path, and so to Chamonix, or 
to continue from Barme along the path 
till, at the Arlevaz huts, the Col du 
Brevent (Rte. D) mule path is joined 
and followed over that pass to Cha- 
monix (6-7 hrs. from the Buet) ; in 
both cases the two finest views of the 
Mont Blanc range are combined in 
one day's walk. If bound for Servoz 
it is necessary to go down the Diosaz 
valley to the Villy and the Ecuelle 
huts, on the r. bank, striking the Col 



d'Anterne path (Rte. D) near the Col, 
and following it henceforth (5 hrs. 
from the Buet to Servoz). 

2. By the Cols de Lechaud and de 
Salenton. — The route from Sixt to 
the former pass (2,283 m. , 7,490 ft.), 
3| hrs., has been described above. 
There is a tarn on the Col, but no 
track from the Beaux Pres basin on- 
wards by this route. From the pass 
I hr. is required to the Col de 
Salenton. The traveller should bear 
a little to the 1. along the ridge, 
descend steeply on grass for 500 ft. to 
the very head of the Diosaz valley,, 
and then make for the hollow trough 
at the junction of the granite and the 
limestone, and so mount to the Col de 
Salenton (2,475 m - , 8, 120 ft. ) A little 
way belcw the Col the Buet route is 
joined, and the inn at the Pierre a 
Berard (see above) reached (1 hr. ) 
over snow and shale. From the 
second pass it is necessary to bear 
well to the r. in order to avoid glacier- 
worn rocks below. 

3. By the Belvedere,. — This peak 
(2,966 m., 5,731 ft.), which com- 
mands a view inferior only, if at all, 
to that from the Buet, is the highest 
summit of the range between the 
Diosaz and Arve valleys,, commonly 
called the Aiguilles Rouges. The 
topography of this range has been 
strangely misrepresented on the maps, 
and the article (with a sketch map) 
by MM. Vallot, in the 'Annuaire du 
Club Alpin Francais,' vol. xix. 1892, 
pp. 12-28, should be consulted. The 
name ' Aiguilles Rouges ' seems to be 
properly confined to the serrated 
ridge N.E. of the Belvedere. Re- 
ferring for details to this article, it 
need only be said here that the maps 
agree as to the height of the Belve- 
dere, but the goJoo ma P ca ^ lS 
it 'Aiguilles Rouges,' while the 
Yo^oqo map names it ' Aiguille de 
Gliere,' the latter name really belong- 
ing to a peak some way further S. It 
is now best known by the name of 
' Belvedere,' which it thoroughly de- 
serves, as it is a very fine view point. 
It can easily be crossed from Sixt to 



408 PENNINE ALPS. $ 17. SIXT 



AND CHAMPERY DISTRICT 



Chamonix, it being best to sleep at 
Les Fonds or at the Fiegere inn. 
From Sixt the Col de Lechaud ( 3§ hrs. ), 
must be gained as described above. 
Thence it is necessary to descend 
900 ft., and then to cross a long spur 
which hides from sight the Col de 
Berard (2,563 m., 8,409 ft.), N.W. 
of the peak. The traverse from one 
Col to another takes 2\ hrs. , and lies 
over grass and gneiss hummocks. 
(The Col de Berard is reached from 
the Pierre a Berard inn in 1 hr., so 
that that inn can be taken as a start- 
ing point for the ascent.) The N.W. 
ridge, which at first is very steep, is 
easy to follow to the false top, and 
thence is a very narrow causeway, 
with one hard bit. The summit 
(•I J hr. from the Col de Berard) is 
crowned by a ^small stone hut. 

The descent lies down the easy, 
though steep and narrow, rocky S. 
arete, which is left a good way down 
in order to go along the upper edge 
of the Glacier Blanc, by which a 
stony hollow is reached. After pass- 
ing the Lac Blanc the traveller gains 
the Fiegere inn (2 hrs. from the sum- 
mit), the route having been in a S.E. 
direction after leaving the S. arete. 
<}\ to ID hrs. are required from Les 
Fonds to Chamonix over the Belve- 
dere. 

From the spur on the way between 
the Cols de Lechaud and de Berard, 
mentioned above, it is easy to keep 
S. along the W. base of the Belvedere, 
and then to mount by a small glacier 
; in an E. direction to the r. -hand notch 
close under the Aiguille de la Floriaz, 
2,888m.,9,475ft.,ofMM.Vallot'smap 
(2,902 m. on the rqooo map, the only 
-one which marks it, though giving the 
name to a lower peak to the S.W.) 
From this pass, which may fitly be 
called Col de la Floriaz, an easy 
descent leads to the stony hollow 
gained on the descent from the 
Belvedere, and so to the Fiegere inn 
in 7J hrs. from Les Fonds. 

4. By the Lac Comu and the Col 
de la Gliere. — ■ This is a beautiful 
walk, while to the geologist the re- 



markably fine specimens of glacial 
action to be seen near the lake will 
prove of very great interest. Coming 
from Sixt it is easiest to follow the 
Col d'Anterne mule track as far as 
the Arlevaz huts, and then to strike 
E. up grass and glacier-worn rocks 
to the Lac Comu, 2,275 m. , 7,464 ft. 
(4 hrs. from Les Fonds.) (If coming 
from the Col de Lechaud, keep r. 
past the Villy and Barme huts (or. 
S.E. direct from the latter by glaciated 
rocks) to the Arlevaz huts. ) The lake 
is a beautiful clear mountain tarn, 
and round it there are fine echoes. 
In 35 min. the pass in the ridge on 
the E. is gained. It is N. of the 
peak called Aiguille Pourrie by all 
the maps, including that of MM. Val- 
lot. A great snow bed and a stony 
descent lead to the Fiegere path 
below the inn, Chamonix being 
reached in 3 hrs. from the lake, or 
'7 hrs. from Les Fonds. 



Route F. 

SIXT TO SALVAN AND MARTIGNY. 

The principal summits of the 
mountain chain between the Buet 
and the Dent du Midi are all formed 
of Jurassic limestone, and constitute 
a range which is, roughly speaking, 
parallel to the two chief valleys that 
enclose it — the Val dTlliez on the 
W. and the Vallee du Trient on the 
E. Several tributary glens descend 
nearly due E. from this range. The 
most northerly of these is that of 
Salanfe, traversed by the Sallanche 
torrent, which, after forming the well- 
known waterfall of Pissevache, joins 
the Rhone near Vernayaz ; the middle 
one, that of Emaney, is watered by 
the Triege, which flows past the 
Emaney huts to join the Trient at 
Triquent ; while the most southerly, 
bending gradually to the S.E., is 
traversed by the Barberine torrent, 



ROUTE F. SIXT TO SALVAN AND MARTIGNY 409 



which joins the Eau Noire (the true 
source of the Trient) a little below 
the village of Vallorcine. The lower 
course of the Barberine forms the 
frontier between Switzerland and 
France ; otherwise the basins watered 
by these three streams lie entirely on 
the Swiss side of the chain. 

There are three passes leading from 
Sixt to the Barberine glen, all of 
which converge at the Emosson huts 
(1,774 m -> 5.820 ft.), in its middle 
reach. Hence a path leads over the 
Col dela Gueula (1 ,945 m., 6,381 ft.) 
direct to Finhaut and Salvan, thus 
avoiding the sharp rise and rough 
descent above the r. bank of the river 
gorge in French territory. Of course 
the easiest route from Sixt to Salvan 
and Martigny is over the Cols de 
Lechaud and de Salenton to Pierre a 
Berard (Rte. E), and then by the 
high road from Chamonix to either 
place. But the three passes to be 
described are far more interesting. 

I. By the Col de Tanne verge (10 
hrs. to Salvan). — From Sixt the road 
to the Fer a Cheval must be followed 
as far as the little inn beyond the 
Pont d'Eau Rouge (1 hr. 5 min.), and 
then the path to the hamlet of Les 
Pellys (Rte. C. I. a. above). This 
hamlet is just at the foot of the pre- 
cipices on the r. of the beautiful 
waterfall of La Aleridienne (easily 
recognised, as it springs from the 
middle of the mountain face, at the 
junction of the Lias and Jurassic 
formations). The track mounts hence 
on the 1. of the waterfall by narrow 
ledges, with good hand holds, up the 
l.-hand side of a shallow black 
gully, leading upwards. This is the 
Pas Ne, or Pas Noir (2 J- hrs. from 
Sixt). Above it, very steep grass 
slopes must be climbed with care to 
the N. end of a narrow band of shale, 
along which a level traverse of 1 hr. , 
between the lower precipices enclos- 
ing the Fer a Cheval and those of 
the Pointe de Tanneverge itself, leads 
to the upper pastures at the Croix 
Moccand, 1,367 m. , 4,485 ft. 
(2 J- hrs.) This marks the political 



frontier, for the pastures hence to the 
Col are, as pointed out in Rte. C. 
politically Swiss, though geographi- 
cally part of the territory of Sixt, 
whence access is too difficult for 
animals. 

[It has been maintained, on the 
strength of a document of 1307, that 
they passed at that date to the men 
of Salvan, but it seems more pro- 
bable, from the boundaries set forth in 
that charter, that the deep basin of 
Vieux Emosson is really meant, 
though this is not absolutely certain.] 

Hence the pastures are mounted 
towards the ridge at their E. end. 
It is possible to cross it at the lowest 
point (2,497 m., 8,193 ft.), but this 
involves a great traverse round to the 
r. on the other side. It is, there- 
fore, best to cross a notch S. of the 
point marked 2,577 m. on the Swiss 
map, some way S. of the lowest 
depression (2 hrs.) 

[From the Col the ascent of the 
Pointe de Tanneve7-ge (2,982 m., 
9,784 ft.) may be effected in 2 hrs. 
See Rte. C. 3. b.J 

From the gap near 2,577 m. 
(8,455 ft-) tne descent to the Bar- 
berine huts (1,836 m., 6,024 ft.), in a 
pretty grassy basin — new Club hut, 
see Rte I. 3. — lies due E., and takes 
40 min. 

[From this hut the Mont Ruan 
(3,078 m., 10,099 ft-) ma Y be as- 
cended in 4 \ hrs. by the S.W. bit of 
the Fronds glacier, and the S.W. 
ridge reached at the spot where stand 
the figures 2,940 m. on the Swiss 
map, the top being then gained 
by passing over the lower summit 
(3,047 m., 9,997 ft.), while the 
Tour Sallieres (3,227 m., 10,588 ft.) 
is also accessible in 6 hrs. from the 
Club hut by the long ridge running 
up from the Pointes de Boillon. 
These are the easiest routes up these 
two fine peaks, between which lies 
the Col de la Tour Sallieres, de- 
scribed in Rte. I. 2. J 

In 25 min. a path along the 1. 
bank of the torrent leads to a point 
opposite the Emosson huts (i,774 m «> 



4io PENNINE ALPS. § 17. SIXT 



AND CHAMPERY DISTRICT 



5,820ft), where the routes from the 
two other passes to be described fall 
in. Hence the Chamonix high road 
near the Barberine inn may be 
reached by a very rough way by a 
track high above the r. bank of the 
gorge, in about 2\ hrs. It is far 
better to mount E. by a zigzag path 
in j hr. to the Col de la G-ueula 
(1,945 m. , 6,381 ft.), whence Fin- 
haut may be reached in J hr., and 
Salvan by the road in \\ hr. more 
(§16. Rte. H). From the Col it is 
easy to go direct to Salvan by a 
pretty, level path past the Fenestral 
huts (above Finhaut), and then 
through pine woods (2 \ hrs.) 

[From the Barberine huts there is a 
high-level route to Salvan or Mar- 
tigny, which involves the traverse of 
several passes, described in Rte. L, 
though this route would involve a 
night at the Barberine Club hut for any 
one coming from Sixt. These are 
the Col de Barberine (2,480 m. , 8, 137 
ft.) to the Emaney glen, and then 
the Col <P Emaney {2,427 m. , 7,963 
ft. ) to the Salanfe basin, whence it is 
easy to descend direct to Salvan, or 
to cross the Col du Jorat (2,223 m. , 
7,294 ft.) to the valley of the Rhone, 
gained near Evionnaz.] 

2. By the Col du Cheval Blanc (9- 
9J hrs. to Salvan). — In former editions 
this pass was named, not quite cor- 
rectly, the Col du Grenairon. It is a 
quicker and easier route than either I 
or 3. From Sixt the traveller must go 
by Passy and the Mouillette huts to the 
Croix de Commune (2-J hrs.), as in 
Rte. C. 2. b. In this way the lower 
precipices are turned, and it then 
becomes necessary to skirt N. E. along 
their brink for I hr. over slopes of 
steep rough stones. A lateral rock 
wall cuts off all access to the Col de 
Tanneverge, so that debris and 
stones must be mounted, round the 
N. end of the small Cheval Blanc 
glacier, to a notch in the ridge be- 
tween the points marked 2,725 and 
2,659 metres on the Swiss map. This 
is the Col, c. 2,600 m., 8,530 ft. 
(3-3 J hrs.), which is a good bit N. 



of the peak of the Cheval Blanc 
(2,841 m., 9,321 ft.) A track leads 
E. direct to the desolate and stony 
basin of Vieux Emosson (for its pro- 
bable history see under 1. above), na 
doubt an old lake bed. A narrow 
passage by the 1. bank of the stream 
(avoid a tempting big path which 
mounts the great buttress on the W. ) 
leads to the Emosson huts, 1,774 m., 
5,820 ft. (1 hr.), beyond which the 
Barberine torrent is crossed to join 
the path described in 1, above. 

3. By the Col de Tanneverge du 
Buet (8 \ hrs. to Salvan). — This is 
much the most interesting route for a 
mountaineer. From Sixt the chalets , 
of Les Fonds are gained in if hr. by 
the Buet route (Rte. E. 1). Hence 
it is necessary to mount the preci- 
pices in the N.E. angle of the Fonds 
basin by the Gtiivra ( ' gouffre '), a very 
remarkable and imposing black rift 
(seen from Les Fonds), of which an 
early account was given by Mr. Justice 
Wills in the ' Alpine Journal,' vol. ii. 
pp. 5 1 -3. It is part of a chasm, 
1,000 to 1,500 ft. deep, a mile long 
from E. to W. , and often only 50 yards 
wide at the top, which is parallel to 
and close behind the outer face of the 
precipice. This outer wall has been 
cut through in the centre to the base, 
leaving a narrow entrance between 
immense, knife-edged flakes of cliff 
on either side, each of which hides 
one arm of the chasm. Two level 
white bands on the r.-hand flake 
mark the entrance, which lies N.N.E. 
of Les Fonds, and in full view. The 
r. and longer arm is impassable. 
The slope of debris in the other is 
separated from the grass slopes above 
by a short wall of rock, furnished with 
easy steps (ij- hr. from Les Fonds). 
(In descending, these steps are hit by 
aiming at the big tree on the top of 
the outer flake, after crossing all the 
converging grass gullies, and descend- 
ing two low rock bands that cross 
them.) Up these grass gullies, and 
along the upper grass slopes, the 
traveller mounts, with the strata, to 
the top of the long E. arm of the 



ROUTE G. SIXT OR SAM O ENS TO CHAMPERY 411 



chasm, and crosses it to the wide 
sloping hollow between the Buet and 
the Grenairon. This hollow is 
ascended to its head, at the cairn 
on the Pointe du Genevrier '(2,819 m. , 
9,249 ft., on the French map). It is 
necessary to go along this level ridge 
for Jhr. , then bear down round its end, 
the peak of the Cheval Blanc (2,841 
m., 9,321 ft.), for 10 min. to the Col 
du Vieux (2,536 m., 8,321 ft.) This 
pass leads from the Cascade de Berard 
by the Eau Noire gorge to the Vieux 
Emosson hollow, which is gained from 
it by the steep rocks in \ hr. , the 
route of the Col du Cheval Blanc 
(2. above) being thence followed 
to the Emosson huts, and over the 
Col de la Gueula to Sal van. 



Route G. 

SIXT OR SAMOENS TO CHAMPERY. 

Three passes lead from Sixt or 
Samoens to Champery. If the travel- 
ler chooses the first described below, 
he will have a good mule path all the 
way, and will not need a guide ; but 
the two other passes are more attrac- 
tive to mountaineers, and are the 
most direct routes to Champery, 
offering as well, for a considerable 
part of the journey, very fine views of 
the Tanneverge precipices. The Col 
de Sagerou was formerly considered 
difficult and dangerous, but it is, 
under ordinary conditions, quite with- 
in the reach of any one used to moun- 
tain excursions. 

1. By the Cols de la G-olese and 
de Coux (5f-6 hrs.)— This route lies 
through very pleasing forest scenery, 
near the N.W. limit of the Cretaceous 
and Tertiary rocks of the ranges N. 
of Sixt, which abut unconformably 
on the Liassic and Triassic strata 
forming the head of the valley of the 
Dranse. 



I From Samoens, 4 m. below Sixt 
I by carriage road (Rte. A), a char road 
! mounts along the r. bank of the cold 
and crystal Clevieux in a N. direction 
I to the hamlet of Les Allamands 
(where the Col de Bostan route 
branches off to the N.E.) The 
mule path strikes up the hill-side at 
I first N.W. through beech woods and 
I hay meadows, then bends slightly 
! N. E. and passes over pastures to some 
j huts where refreshments can be ob- 
j tained. Just beyond these is the Col 
I de la Golese, 1,671 m. , 5,482 ft. 
! (2^ hrs. from Samoens.) The new 
! path runs fairly level across the head 
of the Dranse de Morzine glen (2 hrs. 
j from Morzine, Rtes. M. and N. 3), 
keeping a N. E. direction, and passing 
between the timber below, and the 
cliffs above, to the Col deCoux, 1,924 
m., 6,313 ft. (1 J hr.) This pass is on 
the frontier between France and 
Switzerland, and there is a small inn 
just on the Swiss side. The descent 
lies N.E. by steep zigzags to the 
pasture hollow of Les Creuses, the 
path always keeping on the 1. bank 
j of the Vieze torrent. A wooden 
i bridge (just above which there is a 
j sulphureous spring) leads over the side 
stream of Seumon, beyond which the 
j main path traverses the hamlet of Au- 
! tervenaz, and descends N.E. to the 
j large village of Champery (Rte. H), 
! 1J-2 hrs. from the Col de Coux. From 
that pass there is a longer, but prettier, 
j way slightly S.E. past the Barmaz 
j huts. 

2. By the Col de Sagerou (8J-9 
hrs.) — From Sixt it is necessary to 
j follow the road towards the Fer a 
Cheval, and then beyond to ascend 
; to the very head of the Fond de la 
! Combe, a deep narrow trench, over- 
1 hung by tiers of precipices on each 
! side. At its extremity the cow path 
! doubles back above the lower cliffs 
I on the W. side to the Boret huts, but 
I there is a shorter foot path on the 1., 
which mounts on the r. bank of 
; the torrent by a track cut in the rock 
\ wall, the Pas de Boret, direct to the 
1 same huts, reached thus in 2 \-2\ hrs. 



4 i2 PENNINE ALPS. § 17. SIXT 



AND CHAMPERY DISTRICT 



from Sixt. The path to the Col tra- 
verses a succession of beautiful pas- 
tures to a second mountain shelf, 
marked by a huge fragment of rock, 
called the Pierre a Da?'d (J hr.) 

[From this point there is a very 
beautiful route, especially recom- 
mended for the descent to Sixt, which 
leads by a hay path traversing a fine 
ravine, then rounding the flank of the 
Pointe de Sambet, nearly at a level 
at first, then descending steeply, to 
Nantbride, 3 m. from Sixt on the Fer 
a Cheval road. Very fine views of 
the Tanneverge precipices and of the 
Mont Ruan precipices are gained on 
the way. J 

Here the track turns to the r. over 
a rocky spur to gain the Vogealle 
huts (50 min. from those of Boret), 
1 , 864 m. , 6, 1 1 6 ft. These are situated 
in an exquisite little amphitheatre of 
green, set in a framework of the most 
rugged rocks, which overhang them 
on the W. 6 The way to the Col now 
passes over a succession of hillocks 
and ravines of slaty debris, but the 
track is very ill defined, though in clear 
weather there is no difficulty in main- 
taining the direction.' The path 
mounts N. E. to a shoulder, then runs 
N.E., keeping well above the cliffs 
on the r., to the pass, 2,413 m. , 
7,917 ft. (i-ifhr.) 

[Travellers coming from Champery 
are warned not to attempt the descent 
of these cliffs to the head of the Fond 
de la Combe, as this involves great 
loss of time. Coming in the reverse 
direction, § hr. may be saved by this 
way, which is rough and pathless 
after it quits the cow path 300 ft. 
above the glen, but on the ascent not 
difficult. J 

1 Looking back, the Buet and Mont 
Blanc successively appear above the 
intervening ridges ' before the Col is 
reached. From the pass ' the view 
in all directions, save the immediate 
foreground, is striking and beautiful. 
The valleys of Sixt and Illiez are seen 
far below on either hand, and around 
them rise the noble summits of Mont 
Blanc, the Buet, the Pointe de Tan- 



neverge, the Dent du Midi, and the 
mountains on the other side of the 
Rhone' (F. F. T.) 

[From the Col the summit of the 
Mont Ruan (3,078 m. , 10,099 ftp) 
may be reached in 4^ brs. , and that 
of the Pointe de Tanneverge (2,982 m. , 
9.784 ft.) in 6 hrs., in both cases by 
way of the Mont Ruan glaciers. See 
Rte. C. 3. b. and r.J 

The rocks on the N. side of the 
pass are precipitous. It is necessary 
to keep at first to the L for about 
400 yards across a steep slope either 
of loose debris or snow (where steps 
may have to be cut) above a band of 
cliffs. A short, steep gully, in which 
there was formerly a wire rope, leads 
down through these. There is no 
difficulty to a mountaineer in the 
gully, but when fresh snow lies on 
ice (very exceptional) the slope above 
may be dangerous. 30 min. suffice 
for the descent from the pass to the 
head of the Atitans cirque, the highest 
bit of the great upland trough of 
Susanfe, described in Rte. H. There 
is no path, but the course of the 
stream (which makes deep pools in 
the soft rock) is followed in an E. 
direction till, before reaching the 
shepherds' huts, the traveller bears 
N. to join the track from the Col de 
Susanfe and Dent du Midi (Rte. H) 
at the top of the Pas d'Encel ( 1 , 86 1 m . , 
6,106 ft.) This is henceforth fol- 
lowed past the Bonaveau huts (r§— 2 
hrs. from the pass) to Champery 
(ijhr. further). The rock and wood- 
land landscapes on the Sixt sides are 
magnificent, and there are few excur- 
sions of moderate difficulty more to 
be recommended (local guide desir- 
able). 

3. By the Golette de l'Oulaz (9 hrs. ) 

— This route is best taken f?-om Cham- 
pery, as the steep bit on the Sixt side 
can be descended quickly, while the 
way on the other side requires care 
for long, and the Pas de la Bedaz is 
hard to find on the Champery side. 
From Sixt the route of the Col de 
I Sagerou is followed to the Vogealle 
huts (3J hrs. ) Here a path turns off 



ROUTE H. MONTHEY TO CHAMPERY 



413 



to the N.W., and leads nearly level 
to the Vogealle lake ( 1 ,994m. , 6, 542 ft. ) 
Due N. of and overlooking this lake 
is the Golettede l'Oulaz (c. 2,500 m., 
8,202 ft.), a gully leading up to a 
sharp, narrow notch in the ridge of 
the Dents Blanches, and just E. of 
the Signal de Foilly (2,700 m. on the 
Swiss map). From the lake the notch 
is reached in 1 J hr. by a long, steep 
slope of debris, with some snow at 
the head of the gully. The descent 
on the N. lies for 900 ft. down a 
small glacier to a grassy shelf, above 
cliffs, which runs W. over the Col de 
Bostan (7 hrs. from Sixt to Cham- 
pery) to Samoens past Les Alla- 
mands. To go to Champery it is 
necessary to traverse to the L , ascend- 
ing slightly, so as to hit the top of 
the passage, which hugs the steep 
and rocky N. face of the Tete de 
Bostan (2,408 m., 7,901 ft.), and 
then descends the cliffs by narrow 
grass ledges, which are easy, if found, 
but are found only by creeping under 
an upright rock slab which blocks 
one of them near the top. This is 
the Pas de la Bedaz. In this way 
the upper slopes of the pasture basin 
of Barmaz are gained near the frontier 
ridge, and the path followed to the 
huts of that name. Hence the track 
descends N.E. through a ravine, and 
joins the path from Bonaveau and the 
Pas d'Encel at the hamlet of Les Clous, 
not very far from Champery, which is 
reached in 3-4 hrs. from the notch 
above the Golette. If taken from 
Champery to Sixt, this pass is shorter 
than the Sagerou. 



Route H. 

MONTHEY TO CHAMPERY. ASCENT 
OF THE DENT DU MIDI. 

To a mountaineer Champery is 
not nearly as attractive as Sixt or 
Salvan, but it is very easy of access, 



and has good inns, so that it is largely 
(during the summer) frequented by 
English and Swiss pensionnaires. It 
lies at the head of the Val cPIlliez, 2. 
glen which is somewhat narrower and 
shut in, so far as regards its upper 
portion, but widens out as it joins the 
Rhone valley at Monthey. The two 
sides of this valley offer a great con- 
trast. On the S. E. it is bounded by 
the fine precipices of the Dent du 
Midi, which tower over forests and 
pastures, the village of Champery 
lying at the head of the valley, but 
no less than 2,208 m. (7,244 ft.) 
below the highest peak. On the 
N.W. the slopes are much less steep, 
for the watershed is formed by hills 
which do not rise to a greater height 
than about 2,200 m. (7,218 ft.) The 
valley follows the strike of the great 
fault which, for 100 miles, has thrown 
up this limestone range, and caused 
remarkable foldings of strata, so that 
the summit of the Dent du Midi is 
Jurassic, overlying the newer strata of 
the cliffs below. In mediaeval docu- 
ments this valley is named 1 vallis 
Illiaca inferior, ' to distinguish it from 
the Lotschenthal, in the Upper Vallais, 
which is said to be called ' vallis 
Illiaca superior, ' though the etymology 
seems open to question. 

Champery is most easily reached 
by a good carriage road (8 miles, 
traversed by a diligence in 3 \ hrs.) 
from Monthey (Rte. K), a station on 
the Bouveret railway, 4^ miles from 
St. Maurice and connected by a high 
road with the Ollon St. Triphon 
station (3 miles distant), on the 
Lausanne line. The road to Cham- 
pery runs always along the 1. bank 
of the Vieze torrent, which waters the 
Val dTlliez. On leaving Monthey it 
mounts by some zigzags among vine- 
yards, leaves to the r. the road to 
the famous erratic boulders (Rte. K), 
and ascends through forests and 
across several torrents to (3 \ miles) 
the village of Trots Torrents (763 m., 
2,503 ft.), which stands on a pro- 
montory above the junction of three 
branches of the Vieze, whence its 



4 i4 PENNINE ALPS. § 17. SIXT 



AND CHAMPERY DISTRICT 



name. (For the road to Morgins see 
Rte. N. 1.) The church here was 
originally the parish church of the 
Val d'Hliez, though the existing 
building dates only from 1702. (Pe- 
destrians may follow from Monthey 
the old mule path by the telegraph 
posts, joining the high road a little 
before Trois Torrents, and saving 
much time by this short cut. ) The 
road rises but slightly to the next 
village (2 miles), Val cPIlliez (952 
m., 3,123 ft.), formerly, from 1331 
onwards, the home of a colony from 
the house of Austin Canons at Abon- 
dance. This village was formerly the 
home of the priest, M. Clement, who 
in 1784 made the first ascent of the 
highest point of the Dent du Midi. 
On the way the aspect of the Dent du 
Midi gradually changes. The Cime 
FEst, which from the Rhone valley 
seems to dominate all the other peaks 
of the mountain, is seen to be but the 
end of a long ridge, the various points 
on which are better and better seen, 
till at length the highest and south- 
ernmost, the Haute Cime (3,260 m. , 
10,696 ft.), asserts its supremacy. 
The road descends slightly to cross a 
torrent, then mounts again, but it is 
only after turning a corner that {2\ 
miles) the hamlet of Champery (1,052 
m., 3,452 ft.) bursts on the traveller's 
eyes. It is rather shut in, but is 
extremely healthy, and is composed 
of wooden houses picturesquely dis- 
posed amid the greenest of Alpine 
meadows. It was ecclesiastically 
dependent on Val d'Hliez, till in 1857 
it was made into a separate parish. 

There are many pleasant short 
walks and excursions to be made 
in the neighbourhood, for detailed 
descriptions of which reference may be 
made to M. de Claparede's excellent 
local Guidebook, mentioned in the 
Introduction to this Section. Three 
are particularly recommended. One 
is to go by Crosey to the low pass of 
the Porte du So lei I, 1 ,964 m. , 6,444 ft. 
(3 hrs. ) Hence it is easy to reach 
Morgins in 2 hrs. , but if taken simply 
as an excursion from Champery and 



back it is worth while to mount to 
the N.E. in ^ hr. more to the top of 
the Pointe de P Haut (2,155 m., 7,071 
ft. ), whence the already grand view of 
the precipices of the Dent du Midi is 
seen to better advantage. Another 
charming round is to mount S. from 
Crosey to the Croix de Culet, or 
Roc d'Ayerne, 1,966 m. , 6,450 ft. 
(3 hrs.), descending S. to Autervenaz, 
on the Col de Coux route, and so 
home (2 hrs.) Yet another is to 
follow the Golette de l'Oulaz route to 
the beautiful pasture basin of Barmaz 
(2 J hrs.), then to go nearly due E. 
over a low pass, across a N. spur of 
the Dent de Bonaveau (a knoll to 
the N. is worth visiting for the sake 
of the view) to the Bonaveau chalets 
{\\ hr. ), whence Champery may be 
regained in 1 hr. 

The passes leading from Champery 
in different directions are described in 
other Rtes. , those to Salvan and the 
Barberine inn in Rte. I, those to Sixt 
and Samoens in Rte. G, and those to 
the Chablais in Rte. N. 

Of the peaks around the village the 
Dent de Bonaveau (2,505 m., 8,219 
ft. ) is the easiest, being accessible in 
5 hrs. by way of the Pas d'Encel 
and the slopes to its W., but this 
excursion can only be recommended 
to those who do not care to face the 
fatigue of making the longer, but 
easy, ascent of the higher, and in 
every way preferable, Dent du Midi. 
The Tours Sallieres (3,227 m., 10,588 
ft.) may be gained in about 7 hrs. 
from Champery by way of Bonaveau, 
the N. Mont Ruan glacier, and long 
neve slopes above (which often 
require much tedious step-cutting), 
leading to the final rocks, but is more 
easily reached either from Salanfe 
(Rte. I. 1) or from the head of the 
Barberine glen (Rte. F. 1). The 
Mont Ruan (3,078 m., 10,099 ft.) is 
best gained by way of the Col de 
Sagerou (Rte. G), or of the Barberine 
Club hut (Rte. F. 1), but more 
directly from Champery by the N. 
Mont Ruan glacier and steep rocks 
(8 hrs.), or by a steep rock face, near 



ROUTE H. ASCENT OF 

the Col de la Tour Sallieres (Rte. L 2), 
between the peak of that name and the 
M. Ruan. But the Champery peak is 
the Dent du Midi, rendered famous by 
the classical descriptions of Rambert 
and Javelle. The Dent du Midi (or 
more properly speaking the Dents 
du Midi) is a long ridge, running S. W. 
and N.E. , which forms a prominent 
feature in all views from the neigh- 
bourhood of the E. end of the Lake of 
Geneva, and is crowned by a series of 
pinnacles, no less than 9 of which 
have been deemed worthy of receiving 
separate names. Reckoning from 
S.W. to N.E. the order of these is as \ 
follows : Haute Ciaie, or Cime de ! 
TOuest, 3,260 m., 10,696 ft. (the 
culminating point of the chain, and . 
that usually ascended) ; then the 
double-headed peak of the Doigt, 
3,212 m., 10,539 ft. (distinguished as 
the Dent Noire de Champery and the 
De?itde Salanfe) ; next the Dent Jaune 
(3,187 m., 10,457 ft.), with its mate 
the Eperon (formerly called the Dent 
Ruinee), 3,116 m., 10,224 ft., fol- 
lowed by the Cathedrale (3,166 m., 
10,388 ft.), the Aiguille Delez (a 
mere rocky tooth), and the Forteresse 
(3,164 m., 10,381 ft.), the outer- 
mpst peak being the Cime de PEst 
(3,18b m., 10,434 ft.), which makes j 
such a brave show from the Rhone j 
valley. Three only of these points 
have hitherto been gained direct 
from Champery, the Haute Cime 
and the Dent Jaune both by diffi- 
cult routes up the rocks of their 
N.W. slope (though there is no j 
great difficulty, under ordinary cir- I 
cumstances, in mounting from the ! 
Anthemoz huts — where there is now 
a small chalet inn, like that at Bona- 
veau — to the point where the final 
peak of the Cime rises from its 
level S.W. shoulder, 3,001 m. on the 
Swiss map), and the Cime de l'Est by 
a very dangerous glacier, and a 
serac-raked snow gully on its N.W. 
flank. (It is also accessible by the 
very hard N. E. ridge. ) All the other 
pinnacles have been gained only from 
the Salanfe pasture basin, on the S.E., 



THE DENT DU MIDI 415 

and are therefore described in the 
next Route. M. Clement, the cure of 
Val dTlliez, as before stated, made 
the first ascent of the Haute Cime in 
1784, and in 1842 the Cime de l'Est 
was conquered by five men and a 
woman, all from the Vallais, but the 
rest of the peaks have only been 
scaled since 1879, the Eperon' indeed 
not having been attained, it is said, 
till 1892. As a curiosity it may be 
noted that in 1893 Mr. J. P. Farrar, 
with Daniel Maquignaz and P. L. 
Delez, climbed all the nine summits in 
one day from Salanfe. 

It is usual, when attempting the 
Haute Cime from Champery, to sleep 
at the Bonaveau chalets (ij hr. ), 
where there is a small chalet inn. 
These are reached by going S.W. to 
the hamlet of Les Clous, then taking 
the 1. -hand mule path, which mounts 
by zigzags through pine woods to the 
Bonaveau huts (1,556 m. , 5,105 ft.) 
Thence the traveller follows the path 
towards the Col de Susanfe, bearing 
S.E. to the foot of a line of precipices 
extending from the Dent de Bonaveau 
to the Dent du Midi. These are 
scaled by means of a short ledge 
(with iron stanchions, needed only by 
novices) which runs across smooth, 
water-polished limestone rocks below 
a waterfall to the top of the wall. It 
is called the Pas d'Encel, or Pas 
cCEnfer, and leads to an elevated 
trough or valley 3J miles broad and 
4 1 long, extending on the S. from 
the precipices just surmounted to the 
glaciers on the N. slopes of the Tour 
Sallieres, and the Mont Ruan. Here 
grows the rare Eryngium alpinum. 
From the W. the stream from the Col 
de Sagerou flows down, while to the 
E. is the Col de Susanfe, 4f hrs. 
from Champery, the next step in the 
ascent. This is gained (3 hrs. from 
Bonaveau) by a track which does not 
descend into the Susanfe hollow, but 
hugs the foot of the cliff on its S. 
side. 

[The Col (2,500 m., 8,202 ft.) 
leads over into the Salanfe basin, 
whence it is reached in 2 hrs. , so that 



4 i6 PENNINE ALPS. § 17. SIXT AND CHAMPERY DISTRICT 



the ascent of the peak takes 1 hr. 
less time from Salanfe than from 
Bonaveau.J 

From the Col de Susanfe the sum- 
mit of the Haute Cime is gained (small 
track for part of the way) in 2J hrs. 
(5§ hrs. from Bonaveau), by following 
the S. arete to a point on it. over- 
looking the Pla?i Neve glacier on the 
E. , which is called the Col des Paress- 
eux (3,061 m., 10,043 ft-)? as the 
appearance of the final peak hence 
sometimes discourages novices from 
attempting to reach it. Hence the 
traveller crosses the loose stone slopes 
on the S. face to gain the S.W. 
arete, by which the summit is finally 
attained. 

[It is much shorter, and not hard, 
unless there is much snow or ice, 
either to follow the S.W. arete all the 
way from the point above the Pas 
d'Encel, or to gain the lowest point 
in the S.W. arete by means of a 
grassy slope, or else the point 3,001 
m. of the Swiss map, where the final 
peak rises from its level S.W. shoulder, 
or to mount straight up from the 
Susanfe hollow by the S. face of the 
peak. J 

The view is one of the finest in 
this part of the Alps — indeed, second 
only to that from the Buet, and has 
the advantage of overlooking a great 
part of the Rhone valley (this is seen 
more immediately at the spectator's 
feet from the Cime de l'Est), and the 
E. end of the Lake of Geneva, along 
with the noble panorama of the Pen- 
nine and Bernese Alps. It must be 
borne in mind that when the rocks on 
the S. face are iced or covered with 
fresh snow they offer considerable 
dangers to inexperienced moun- 
taineers, and all climbers are warned 
not to attempt a descent from the Col 
des Paresseux too directly to the 
Salanfe basin, as the rocks on that 
side are steep, and if covered with 
fresh snow dangerous, so that it is 
best to gain Salanfe by way of the 
Col de Susanfe. An experienced 
climber may glissade by sleep slopes 
of moving stones from the point 



marked 3,001 m. on the S.W. arete, 

to the Susanfe basin. 

The inn at the Salanfe huts may be 
gained in 2 hrs. from the Haute Cime, 
and Salvan in 2 hrs. more by the 
route of the Col de Susanfe (Rte. I. 1). 
From Salanfe the Rhone valley may 
be reached at Evionnaz in hrs. by 
way of the Col du Jorat (see next 
Route). 



Route L 

CHAMPERY TO MARTIGNY OR 
CHAMONIX. 

As stated at the beginning of Rte. 
F, there are three glens which de- 
scend from the E. slope of the Tour 
Sallieres-Dent du Midi range to 
various points on the high road 
between Martigny (or Vernayaz) and 
Chamonix. One of these, that of 
Emaney, does not run quite up to 
the watershed, but routes lead from 
Champery through the two others, 
which are connected by cross routes 
with the Emaney glen. 

1. By the Col de Susanfe (2,500 
m., 8,202 ft.) This pass lies over 
the lowest depression in the ridge 
between the Tour Sallieres and the 
Dent du Midi, and thus offers the 
only easy way from the head of the 
Val d'llliez to the Trient glen. One 
great advantage of this pass is that 
it is easy to take the Dent du Midi 
on the way from Champery to Salvan 
or Martigny. The ascent from Cham- 
pery (4 J hrs.) has been described in 
the last Route in connection with the 
usual way up the Haute Cime of the 
Dent du Midi. The descent on the 
E. side is steeper than the ascent 
on the W. side, but a well-marked 
path leads E. down shale banks 
under the great face of the Tour 
Sallieres direct to the large flat pasture 
basin of Salanfe (} hr. ), in which 



1ROUTE I. CHAMPERY TO MARTIGNY OR CHAMONIX 417 



nestle many huts. At the Barmaz 
huts (1,896 m., 6,221 ft.) there are 
little Alpine inns, convenient starting 
points for many ascents and excur- 
sions. 

[Hence any of the summits of the 
Dent du Midi may be reached in 
4-5 hrs. The way up the Haute 
Cime has been described in Rte. H. 
For any of the others the traveller 
must mount N.W. to the Plan Neve 
glacier, and then climb the pinnacle 
selected by means of ice and rock 
gullies, and rotten rocks. In every 
case the rocks are rotten, and there 
is no little danger from falling stones. 
The Ctme de PEst is reckoned the 
easiest summit, after the Haute Cime, 
and certainly commands the finest 
view, especially down into the Rhone 
valley. The Dent Jamie (3,187 m. , 
10,457 ft.) is considered the most 
difficult of the 9 summits. 

From Salanfe the Tour Sallieres 
(3,227 m. , 10,588 ft.) may also be 
ascended, either direct by a couloir to 
a glacier, then up by the gullies and 
rocks (good handholds) of the great 
N.E. slope, known as the Grand 
Revers (7 hrs.), or by mounting to the 
Col d'Emaney {\\ hr. ), and thence 
following the S.E. arete to the summit 
(3 hrs.) An easier ascent from the 
Col d'Emaney is that of the Lutein, 
2,786 m., 9,141 ft. (| hr. ), whence 
there is a magnificent view.] 

If bound for St. Maurice, the most 
direct way from Salanfe is to mount 
E. by a good mule path in a good half- 
hour to the Col du Jorat (2,223 m -> 
7,294 ft.), from which an ascent east- 
wards up the ridge (save at one point) 
•of ifhr. suffices to bring the traveller 
to the summit of the Dent du Salantin 
(2,485 m., 8,153 ft*)> which is said to 
command a very fine and curious 
view. From the Col (whence the flat 
floor of the Rhone valley is seen, 
1,800 m., 5,906 ft., below) the mule 
path goes down at first in a N.W. 
direction to the Upper Jorat huts, and 
later at the Lower Jorat huts bends to 
the N.E. above the r. bank of the 
St. Barthelemy torrent, in part through 
I. 



! beech woods, to Evionnaz (3 hrs.), a 
station on the Rhone valley railway 
(§21. Rte. A), 4 m. above St. Maurice 
and 5J m. below Martigny. 

If bound from Salanfe for Salvan or 
Martigny, the traveller does better to 
; take the path along the r. side of the 
Salanfe or Sallanche stream (which 
[ forms below the famous Pissevache 
; waterfall), crossing to the Upper Van 
! huts, on the 1. bank, and then recross- 
i ing, in order, after passing above the 
Lower Van huts, to quit the Sallanche 
gorge and to round by the little Col de 
la MatzeXhe mountain buttress, beyond 
which is Salva7i (2 hrs.), which is 
J hr. walking by carriage road from 
Yernayaz, in the Rhone valley, 3 m. 
by rail from Martigny (§ 21. Rte. 
A). 

2. By the Col de la Tour Sallieres. 

— This pass (2,875 m -> 9>433 ft*) ^ es 
between the Tour Sallieres and the 
Mont Ruan, and seems to have 
been first crossed, in 1863, by Mr. 
Coutts Trotter, with Peter Bohren. 

i From Champery the route of the 
Col de Susanfe is followed to the 
Susanfe hollow (3 hrs.) on the 
W. side of that pass (Rte. H). 
Thence bear S.E. , and by stones, the 
N. Mont Ruan gl. , and a steep slope 
of neve at the end mount to the pass 
(2J hrs. ) From a point a little on 
the S. side of the Col it is easy to 
ascend either the Tour Sallieres or 
the Mont Ruan (Rte. F). The 
descent lies down rocks, and then 
along the E. side of the crevassed 
Fonds gl. . to the Barberine glen, down 
which the traveller goes, past the 
Barberi?ie and E?nosson huts {Rte. 
F), to the Barberine inn (4 hrs.), I J 

; hr. from Argentiere (§16. Rte. H. 2). 

3. By the Cols de Susanfe, d'Ema- 

I ney, and de Barberine. — A traveller 
I who, after having ascended the 
Dent du Midi from Bonaveau, and 
slept at the Salanfe inn, wishes to 
see some fine wild scenery may next 
day by two easy passes (involving, 
however, several considerable ascents 
and descents) gain the Barberine 
glen, and thence go down to the 

E E 



4:8 PENNINE ALPS. § 17. SIXT AND CHAMPERY DISTRICT 



Barberine inn, or else cross over to 
Sixt (Rte. F). 

From Salanfe a path leads S. in 
i§ hr. up to the Col d'Emaney (2,427 
m., 7,963 ft.), whence the tip of the 
Matterhorn is seen. (From this pass 
either the Tour Sallieres or the Luisin 
may be ascended. See 1. above. ) A ! 
zigzag path leads down in J hr. to a 
point near the Emaney huts (1,861 
m. , 6,106 ft.), which may themselves 
be avoided. (From these huts a path 
goes down the 1. bank of the Triege, 
which is crossed to the Tenda huts, 
and later recrossed in order to pass by 
Cernieux, and so gain Salvan in 1 \ hr. 
from Emaney.) From the Emaney 
huts the path mounts first W. , then 
S.W., to the Col de Barberine, 2,480 
m., 8,137 ft. (if hr. ), whence there 
is a fine view of Mont Blanc and the 
Bernese Oberland. The track de- 
scends on the other side by the 1. 
bank of a steep glen to the valley of 
the Eau Noire at the Barberine huts, 
1,836 m. , 6,024 ft. (a good hour from 
the pass.) Near them, at a height of 
1,900 m. (6,234 ft.), there has now 
(1898) been built a stone Club hut, 
which is very conveniently situated for 1 
the ascents of the Tour Sallieres, Mont 
Ruan, &c. Here the route of the Col 
de Tanneverge (Rte. F) from Sixt is 
joined, and followed past the Emosson 
huts, and high above the r. bank of 
the torrent, to the Barberine inn 
[2\ hrs. ), which is \\ hr. from 
Argentiere. About 7 hrs. are thus 
required from Salanfe to the Barberine 
inn, so that Chamonix may be gained 
the same day, though if a peak has been 
climbed on the way the night must 
probably be spent at the Barberine 
inn. By crossing the Col de Susanfe as 
well as the two other passes described 
active walkers have gone from 
Champery to the Barberine inn in one 
day of about 12 hours' walking. 



Route K. 

GENEVA TO ST. MAURICE BY 
THONON. 

M. 

Annemasse 3! 
Bons-St. Didier . . . 12^ 
Thonon .... 22^ 
Evian . . . . .28 
St. Gingolph . . . 384 
Bouveret .... 42^ 
Vouvry. . . . .46 
Monthey .... 52^ 
St. Maurice .... 56^ 

Railway, 56^ miles, traversed in 2I-3 
hrs., besides 1 hr.'s halt at Bouveret. 

The old road between Geneva and 
St. Maurice formed part of Napoleoms 
road over the Simplon. It ran N. E. 
from Geneva, crossed the Hermance 
stream into Savoy, and went through 
Douvabie (now connected with 
Geneva in \ \ hr. by a narrow-gauge 
railway) and Sciez to Thonon (20 
miles), whence it followed the S. 
shore of the lake to Bouve?'et, thence 
going S.E. along the 1. bank of the 
Rhone to St. Maurice. The railway 
takes very much the same course 
from Thonon onwards, but reaches 
that place by keeping more inland. 
This line of railway connects not 
only Geneva, but, through Aix les 
Bains and Bellegarde, farther Savoy, 
and even Dauphine, with the Rhone 
valley at St. Maurice. At Thonon 
it affords direct access to various 
carriage roads which traverse the sub- 
alpine district of the Chablais, while 
Monthey is the starting point for the 
i Va! dTlliez and Champery. The 
; peaks that overhang it at the E. end 
of the lake are famous for their lake 
views : the Dent d ; Oche is best 
reached from Evian, but the little 
: mountain inn on the shores of the lake 
of Tanay, above Vouvry, is the spot 
from which the Cornettes de Bise 
and the Grammont are most con- 
veniently attacked. 

From the Eaux Vives station (S. 
side of the Rhone) at Geneva the 



ROUTE K. GENEVA TO ST. MAURICE BY THONON 419 



line runs E. through Chene Bourg, 
enters France by crossing the Foron, 
and soon after reaches Atinejnasse 
Station. 

[This is the junction of the lines 
from Bellegarde, Aix les Bains, An- 
necy, Cluses, and Samoens. See §11. 
Rtes. E and F ; § 10. Rte. A ; § 16. 
Rte. A. and Rte A. above.} 

The Foron is crossed several times, 
its course being now wholly within 
France, before (7 \ m. ) St. Cergues 
Station is reached, the starting point 
of the future railway up Les Voirons. 
At present it is best to go to (12 J m. ) 
Bons-St. Didier Station in order to 
reach that fine point of view. 

[The Voirons is a range of hills 
formed of Tertiary rock, and often 
visited from Geneva for the sake of 
its view of the lake and the Jura on 
one side, and of the snowy Alps on 
the other, and of its pleasant broad, 
rolling, and wooded uplands. 10 min. 
from its culminating point (1,480 m. , 
4,856 ft.) is the H. de PHermitage, a 
favourite spot for a stay of some days. 
This may be gained from Bons in 
2 \ hrs., and from Boege (on the E. ) 
in 2 hrs. , by pedestrians. The easiest 
way is to drive from Bons to the 
(4 J miles) Col de Saxel (3J miles from 
Boege), and then continue the drive 
in a W. direction to the inn (5 J m.) 
The hotel omnibus takes 4 hrs. from 
Bons to the hotel. It is said that the 
view is even finer from the S. and 
lower summit, called Point e de Pra~ 
laire, 1,412 m., 4,633 ft. J 

Some way beyond Bons the 
fine ruins of the thirteenth-century 
castle of La Pochette are passed on 
the r., and, beyond the station of 
(16 J m. ) Perrignier, those of the 
twelfth-century Cistercian nunnery of 
Petit Lieu. The line bears away from 
the hill on which rise the ruins of the 
two tenth-century castles of Allinges 
(see below), gradually nearing the 
shore of the lake, which is finally 
gained at 

Thonon, a little town, which was 
formerly the capital of the old pro- 
vince of the Chablais, just S. of the 



lake. The upper town contains 
the chief buildings, and a terrace 
walk (on the site of the old castle de- 
stroyed in 1 591) planted with trees v 
and commanding the lake and the- 
mountains. 

£25 min. distant to the N., on the 
alluvial deposits thrust into the lake 
by the impetuous torrent of the 
Dranse, are the remains of the castle> 
afterwards monastery, of Ripaille. 
This was the house of Austin Canons 
Regular, founded in 141 1 by Amadeus. 
VIII., last Count (1391-1417) and 
first Duke (1417-1434) of Savoy. 
Twice he retired thither, first on his 
resignation of his duchy in 1434, 
when he founded there the knightly 
order of SS. Maurice and Lazarus. 
But in 1439 he was elected Pope 
under the name of Felix V. , though 
he resigned that great position in 1449, 
to withdraw again to Ripaille, where 
he died in 1451. As a ruler he left 
a rare reputation for wisdom and 
moderation, but the life of ease and 
luxury which he and his knights were 
said to lead gave rise to the French 
phrase 1 faire Ripaille ' to describe 
that kind of existence. In 1669 the 
house was occupied by the Carthusians 
from PAbbaye de Vallon (Rte. L. 2). 
Another excursion to be made from 
Thonon is to the two ruined tenth- 
century castles on the hill of Allinges 
(1 hr. ) The chapel (715 m. , 2,346 
ft.), a favourite resort of St. Francis 
de Sales, still preserves some traces of 
early frescoes on the vault of its roof, 
and, like the castles, commands a very 
fine view over the lake, the Chablais, 
and the Jura. From Thonon roads 
lead in various directions, and are 
described in the following three 
Routes.] 

Soon after quitting Thonon the line 
passes some magnificent chestnut trees 
on the r. , crosses the Dranse by a long 
bridge, and traversing the watering 
place of Amphion reaches 

Evian les Bains. This is a small 
town just opposite Lausanne (35 
min. ofT by steamer), and on one 
of the finest sites of the lake. A 
E E 2 



420 PENNINE ALPS. § 17. SIXT AND CHAMPERY DISTRICT 



mineral spring whose waters (bicar- 
•bonate of soda) are nearly tasteless 
enjoys a great reputation, and attracts, 
it is said, 10,000 visitors (mainly 
•French) each summer. The climate 
is cooler than that of Vevey, being 
'much exposed to winds from the lake. 
-An enormous chestnut tree at Neuve- 
-celle, J m. from the town, is worth a 
stroll, as its girth is a little over 
40 ft. 

[Evian is the best starting point for 
the ascent of the Dent d'Oche (2,-225 
m. , 7,300 ft., the highest mountain in 
the neighbourhood of the lake), the 

*view from which is only surpassed by 
that from the Cornettes de Bise (see 
under Vouvry, below). A carriage 
road leads S.E. to Bemex (7 miles), 
whence a mule path mounts in 2 J hrs. 
to the Oche chalets, to the S. of the 
peak. A track runs up the steep 
couloir just N. of the huts to the 
ridge, along which the summit is 
gained in 2 hrs. J 

Beyond Evian the line passes be- 
tween rich wooded slopes, with trel- 
lised vines, and the shores of the lake, 
which on this side presents far bolder 

- scenery than on the opposite shore. 
7 miles from Evian, after passing 
through a long tunnel, the line reaches 

-Meillerie, familiar to the readers of 
Rousseau's 6 Nouvelle Heloise. ' Here 
the rocks plunge directly into the lake, 

'which is about 820 ft. in depth, and 
it was off them that in 1816 Byron 
nearly lost his life in a squall while 
boating on the lake. The next place 
passed is St. Gingolph, a village 
divided into two bits by the Morge 
torrent, here marking the frontier 
between Savoy and Switzerland. It 
rises in the Dent d x Oche (2,225 m., 
7,300 ft.), which may hence be 
ascended in about 5 hrs., passing 
Novel. The following note recom- 
mends an interesting excursion con- 
necting St. Gingolph with Vouvry. 
The ascent will take 5-6 hrs., the 
descent about 3 J-4 hrs. : — i Ascend by 
the 1. bank of the Morge through a 
wood of splendid chestnut and walnut 
trees, at the back of St, Gingolph, as 



far as Novel (3 J m. by road). Here 
take a southerly course towards a col, 
passing under and to the E. of the 
Dent d'Oche, and having crossed it 
proceed until you have the Cornettes 
de Bise to the S.E.; ascend a pasture 
valley to the chalets of Bise, whence 
the summit of the Cornettes de Bise 
(2,437 m., 7,996 ft.) is easily reached. 
The view is magnificent, and scarcely 
surpassed by any other lake view in 
Switzerland. Descend nearly due E. 
by the pretty little lake of Tanay, 
and you will be quite prepared to 
enjoy a good supper and comfortable 
bed at the modest inn at Vouvry ' 
(R. W. E. F.) 

The lake is skirted to Le Bouveret, 
near the mouth of the Rhone, 
where it enters the E. end of the 
lake. It is the terminus of the 
line of steamers coming from Geneva 
and calling at places on the S. or 
Savoy side of the lake. The line now 
quits the lake to run S.E. along the 
1. bank of the Rhone. It leaves to 
the r. Port Vallais, formerly on the 
lake, and soon after the hamlet of 
Les Avonettes. This is most probably 
the scene of the great catastrophe by 
which the town of Tauretunum was 
destroyed in 563, as recorded by 
Gregory of Tours and Marius of 
Avenches. A great mass then fell 
from the Grammont on the W. , which 
caused extensive havoc on the shores 
of the lake, by reason of the massive 
waves which arose beyond their accus- 
tomed limits. Skirting the base of 
the mountain, where a fort and draw- 
bridge formerly stood to defend the 
narrow pass or defile of the Porte du 
Sex, the entrance to the Vallais on 
this bank of the Rhone, the line 
reaches Vouvry. Near the village 
is the outlet of the remarkable 
but unfinished Stockalper canal, ex- 
cavated, in the last century, by a mem- 
ber of the well-known Brieg family, 
to drain the marshes that occupy a 
large portion the valley. 

[Vouvry is the best starting point 
for the ascent of the Cornettes de Bi:e 
(2,437 m., 7,996 ft.), and of the 



ROUTE K. GENEVA TO ST. MAURICE BY TIIONON 421 



Grammont (2,175 m. , 7,136 ft.) 
For either point it is necessary to go 
W. to Afiex, then N.W. over a small 
col to the charming lake of Tanay 
(3hrs.), 1,411m., 4,629 ft., on the 
shores of which is a small inn. The 
Grammont is reached hence in 1 \ hr. 
by a great grass slope, and the traveller 
can descend in 3 hrs. to Les Avouettes 
(see above), near Port Vallais. The 
view from the summit is very fine, 
especially over the lake. That from 
the Cornettes de Bhe is, however, 
even finer, and is not surpassed, in the 
opinion of competent judges, by the 
panorama from any other point round 
the lake of Geneva. To reach its 
summit from the Tanay inn the travel- 
ler should go W. up the glen past the 
chalets of Looz (where a route from 
St. Gingolph by the Col de Lovenex 
falls in) to a lakelet near the Col de 
Pise, or Pas de Riss (2,087 m - > 65847 
ft.), N. of the peak, from which pass 
Vacheresse, in the Dranse valley 
(Rte. N. ), may be reached in 4 \ hrs. 
Then bear up S.W. to a gap at the 
foot of the peak, which is scaled by- 
steep rocks and grass (4 hrs. from 
Tanay). An easier and more direct 
way, if starting from Vouvry, is to go - 
S.W. from Miex till just on the French 
side of the Col de Vernaz^ or Passage 
de Lachan (4 hrs., hence in ij-hr. to. 
La Chapelle d'Abondance, Rte. N. ), 
whence the way leads nearly N. past 
the Callaz huts, then, mainly up 
grass slopes S. of the peak, to the top. 
(ij hr. ) The descent to St. Gin- 
golph (above) commands a series of 
splendid views over the lake. But it 
must be remembered that Vouvry is. 
1,000 m. (3,281 ft.) lower than 
Tanay. ] 

From Vouvry the railway runs 
past Vionnaz to Monthey^ at the 
entrance of the Val dTlliez. (For 
the routes to Champery and Morgins 
see Rtes. H and N respectively.) 
Monthey is well known to geologists 
for the erratic boulders (J hr. off) to 
which attention was first called by 
M. de Charpentier. On the slope 
above the village a vast assemblage 



of huge blocks of protogine granite,, 
exactly similar to those found in the, 
Val Ferret (whence these, perhaps, 
come),, on the E. side of the Mont 
Blanc chain, remain, on the site, 
where they were left by the retire- 
ment of the great glacier that once 
traversed the Rhone valley. Similar 
blocks occur above Vionnaz, and at, 
several other places on the W. slope 
of the valley, but they are nowhere 
seen on so great a scale as here. 
The largest block, the Pierre desi 
Marmettes, with a- Pavilion on top,, 
is all but 7a ft. long, 33 broad, and 
33 high. Monthey is connected by 
a high road (3m.) with the Ollon- 
St. Triphon station, on the line from 
Lausanne (§21* Rte. A),, while 2 m.. 
beyond Monthey is Massongex^ 
whence a long bridge leads over the 
Rhone to Bex. The valley rapidly 
contracts between the opposite peaks 
of the Dent du Midi and the Dent de 
Morcles, and the line joins that from 
Lausanne (§21. Rte. A) at the 
entrance of the tunnel, on emerging 
from which St. Maurice is reached 
(56J m.) 



Route L. 

THONON TO BONNEVILLE OR 
TANINGES. 

The N. part of Savoy, forming the 
ancient province of the Chablais, and 
lying (roughly speaking) between the 
Arve and the Giffre on the S., and 
the Lake of Geneva on the N. , con- 
tains much pleasing scenery, though 
none that can be called grand. It 
might well be visited early or late in 
the season, before or after the High 
Alps can be climbed, or while the 
weather is clearing up, as it does 
more slowly amidst the higher moun- 
tains. The Chablais, outside the 
shores of the lake (a great place for 



422 PENNINE ALPS. § 17. SIXT AND CHAMPERY DISTRICT 



fine chestnut trees), consists of a subab 
pine upland, little visited by English 
travellers, but far better known to 
French tourists. It is specially rich 
in pastures, in steep beech and .pine 
woodlands, affording good timber, in 
hay slopes and orchards, and in warm 
grassy peaks, often precipitous on 
one side. There is scarcely any 
bottom-land in the valleys, yet the 
soil is fertile, and well spread, as is 
shown by the density of the popula- 
tion— 65,000. Save the two towns of 
Thonon and Evian, the Chablais 
hardly includes a village numbering 
more than 1,700 souls. The moun- 
tain ranges lie pretty close together, 
with slopes 3,000 ft. and more in 
height. They run with the strike of 
the strata parallel to the Mont Blanc 
chain, N.E. and S.W., attaining 
their greatest height in the Pointe de 
Grange (2,438 m., 7,999 ft.) and the 
Cornettes de Bise (2,437 m., 7,996 
ft.), which rise respectively S. and N. 
of La Chapelle d'Abondance. The 
district is traversed by many carriage 
roads, the chief of which are de- 
scribed in this and the two following 
Rtes. , but a pedestrian may freely 
choose his own course in almost any 
direction. 

1. By the Col de Coux und Boege 
(about 31 \ m. to Bonneville, 35^ 
m. to Taninges).— -From Thonon the 
road runs nearly due S. to -m. ) 
Macheron (hence in a few minutes up 
to the ruins of the Allinges castles 
and chapel, Rte. K), and passing 
Maugny begins to mount through 
chestnut woods, whence the lake and 
Jura are seen at intervals. Con- 
tinuing to ascend in a S. direction 
it passes above the hamlet of Pes- 
singes, and mounts in zigzags, partly 
through pine forests, keeping on the 
slopes W. of the easy foot pass of 
the 'Col des Moises, to the highest 
point (9 J m.), the Col de Coux (c. 
-1, 200 m., 3,937 ft.) A knoll N. of 
the col is crowned by a statue of the 
Virgin, and is worth visiting (10 
min. ) for the very extensive view 
obtained thence over the Jura, and 



the mountains of the Chablais and of 
the Faucigny. The road descends 
on the other side to (12J m.) the 
hamlet of Habere Poche. 

[Hence the Mont Forchet, 1,545 
m., 5,069 ft. (highest point locally 
called Fourches d'Habere), to the N. , 
can be gained in 2 hrs. , and commands 
a fine view. Several roads lead N.E. 
from Habere Poche over low passes 
in 5 m. to Lullin and Vailly, a little 
way beyond, on the Col de Jambaz 
roads, Rte. L. 2.] 

Passing through the village of Habere 
Lullin the road at ( 1 5 J- m. ) the village 
of Villard enters the province of 
Faucigny, and continues along the 
1. bank of the Menoge torrent till this 
is crossed in order to gain (17 m. ) 

Boege (760 m., 2,493 ft.), a small 
town famous for an excellent race of 
fowls. 

[Hence a road goes up in 3J m. 
to the Col de Saxel (whence the 
Voirons is reached in 5 J m). , and 
descends in 4J m. more to Bons, on 
the railway between Annemasse and 
Thonon (Rte, K).] 

The right bank of the Menoge is 
followed to (2 if m.) Pont de Fil- 
linges, over that stream. (This is 
now a station on the steam tramway 
from Annemasse to Samoens (Rte. 
A), 7 m. from the former place, 
and 13 J m. from Taninges, which 
is itself 6| m. below Samoens.) 
m. further, at the junction of the 
Menoge and the Foron, is (23J m. ) 
Bomie, whence a steam tramway 
leads in 8 m., past Findrol, to (31 J 
m.) Bonneville, on the Annemasse- 
Le Fayet line (§16. Rte. A). Bonne- 
ville is 8f m. from Cluses. 

2. By the Col de Jambaz and 
Megevette (about 33 m. to Bonne- 
ville, 32 m. to Taninges). — This is an 
even finer route than that last de- 
scribed, and is strongly recommended. 
From Thonon the road runs S.E. 
along the 1. bank of the Dranse past 
(4 m. ) Annoy ; with extensive gypsum 
quarries, then high above the deep 
gorge in which flows the foaming 
river. It gradually bends S., passing 



ROUTE M. THONON TO TANINGES OR SAMOENS 423 



(7jm. ) above Reyvroz, a village above 
the junction of two of the three princi- 
pal branches of the Dranse (Rte. M), 
then runs above the 1. bank of the 
Brevon or Dranse de Bellevaux, to 
(9|m. ) Vailly, whence a cross road 
leads in 5 m. by Lullin to Habere 
Poche (see I. above). It continues 
in the same direction above the same 
bank of the stream to (13J m. ) Belle- 
vaux (915 m., 3,002 ft.), the chief 
village of the valley of that name. 
Its name is taken from a Benedictine 
monastery, founded here in the 
twelfth century. 

[Hence the active walker can as- 
cend in 3 J hrs. the Pointe Billiat 
(1,901 m., 6,237 ft.), to the N.E., 
and may descend in 2 hrs. more to 
La Baume, on the Col des Gets road, 
Rte. M.] 

A final ascent leads in about 
2 m. more to (15^ m. ) the summit 
of the Col de Janibaz (1,058 m. , 
3.47ift.) 

[Hence several low, easy passes 
lead through the very secluded and 
much-forested, shady glen to the S.E. , 
in which stand the ruins of the Car- 
thusian house of the Abbaye de Vallon — 
founded 1 136, monks transferred in 
1669 to Ripaille — to Taninges, or to 
the road over the Col des Gets.] 

The descent on the S. side of the 
pass lies through the Risse valley, 
passing (18 \ m. ) Megevette and 
(2o| m. ) Onion, before reaching 
( 24 m. ) St. Jeoire. This is a station 
on the steam tramway between Anne- 
masse and Samoens (Rte. A), by 
which Taninges is 8 m. distant 
(Rte*. A). A pedestrian will, if the 
weather is fine, prefer to cross the 
conical peak of the Mole to Bonne- 
ville (Rte. B), but in case of bad 
weather may reach that place by 
steam tramway to (5m.) Marignier, 
which is Af\ m. from Bonneville by 
the Cluses railway line. 



Route M. 

THONON TO TANINGES OR 
SAMOENS. 

To Taninges, high road, 31I m. To 
Samoens, high road to Morzine, 21^ 
m., thence by mule path. 

This too is a very beautiful drive, 
and one very convenient for a traveller 
bound from Lausanne to Sixt or 
Chamonix, but wishing to go as little 
as possible by rail. The excellent 
modern road follows for 19 m. the 
central branch of the Dranse at the 
river's edge. Frequent gorges and 
varying scenery show that the streams 
run at right angles to the general 
trend of the mountain ridges, while 
the villages and old roads are left 
perched and struggling on the hill- 
sides until St. Jean d'Aulph is 
reached. 

From Thonon the road runs S.E. , 
in 2 m. crosses to the right bank of 
the Dranse, and follows it on that 
bank, through a series of fine narrow 
gorges with wooded banks and many 
sheer cliffs, till it recrosses the river 
a little way before (7^m.) Pont de 
Bioge, near the meeting of the Belle- 
vaux branch of the Dranse with the 
united stream of the two other 
branches of that river. Just W. is 
the hamlet of Reyvroz (Rte. L. 2). 
The road crosses the Bellevaux branch 
and runs for a short distance above 
the 1. bank of the united streams of 
the two other branches, but soon 
turns S. along the 1. bank of the 
Morzine branch. Narrow gorges lead 
from one green basin to another, 
while hay lands, woods, and orchards, 
dotted with houses, and waterfalls are 
frequent, and on the E. the precipices 
of the Mont Ouzon frown over the 
meadows below. Just beneath the 
hamlet of La Baume (whence the 
traveller can reach the Pointe Billiat 
(1,901 m. , 6,237 ft.) in 4 hrs., and 
descend in 2 hrs. more to Bellevaux, 
Rte. L), the Pont de Gys (iifm.), 



424 PENNINE ALPS. § 17. SIXT AND CHAMPERY DISTRICT 



over the Dranse, is traversed, the 
road then passing beneath the village 
of Biot, the principal hamlet of the 
valley, on a brow above. The 
picturesque village of Seytroux is 
seen on the other side of the 
Dranse ; then the road traverses a I 
fine gorge, at one point tunnelling 
through a great boulder fallen from 
above, in order to gain the green 
hollow in which is the village of 
St. Jean cTAulph. The old village 
and church are on the 1. bank, but 
the road traverses the ruins of the 
abbey, then (15^-m. ) the new village. 
This abbey was a Cistercian house, 
founded in 1103, and is mentioned 
several times in the letters of St. 
Bernard. The fine old monastic : 
church was pulled down in 1824 by 
the local authorities, in order to use 
the materials in restoring the village | 
church. The name ' d'Aulph 5 is said 
to come from ' de alpibus. ' 3 \ m. 
further on the Dranse is recrossed, a 
road leading up to Montriond (Rte. N. 
2) here turning off to the L This 
hamlet is at the union of three moun- 
tain torrents, which join to form the 
Dranse de Morzine. The E. branch 
descends from the Pas de Chesery 
(Rte. N) ; the middle one flows from 
the Cols de la Golese and de Coux to 
the N.W. past Morzine ; while the 
road to Taninges traverses the short 
S. branch, that of Gets. Nearly 1 m. 
beyond the bridge (19! m. from 
Thonon) the roads to Taninges and 
Samoens divide. 

(a) To Taninges by the Col des 
Gets- — From this point the road over 
the Col des Gets mounts S. by zigzags, 
in order to attain the cultivated rolling 
upland of Gets, and soon after reaches 
(25J m.)Zes Gets (1,172 m., 3,845 ft. ), 
a hamlet close to the pass itself, which 
forms the boundary between the 
Chablais and the Faucigny. It is 
said that the hamlet was founded in 
the fourteenth century by some Jews 
( 6 Gets ' being stated to mean in old 
patois ' Juifs 5 ) hunted from Tuscany. 
On the descent the road passes 1 
through a very picturesque wooded | 



gorge, and follows the Aj-pettaz tor- 
rent to its junction with the Foron, 
then the latter, till a turn in the road 
reveals Taninges below in a pretty 
basin, whither two great zigzags soon 
lead down (3 if rn. ) Taninges is a 
station on the steam tramway between 
Annemasse and Samoens (Rte. A). 

(b) To Samoens by the Col de Joup- 
lane. — From the bifurcation a road 
descends to (21 \ m. from Thonon) 
Morzine ) a prettily situated hamlet, 
now beginning to be known as an 4 air 
cure.' (For the route t'o Champery 
see Rte. N.) Hence a mule path 
leads nearly due S. up gentle wooded 
slopes past some huts to the Col de 
Jonplane (1,718 m., 5,637 ft. ), which 
commands an exquisite view. The 
path winds down the mountain slopes 
on the I. bank of the Valentine 
glen, and crosses a lower shoulder, 
amidst pretty views, to Samoens 
(4| hrs. from Morzine). It is not a 
much longer route to mount S.E. 
from Morzine up the main stream to 
its head, whence the Col de la Golese 
leads S. to Samoens, and the Col de 
Coux E. to Champery (Rte. G. 1). 



Route N. 

THONON TO MONTHEY BY MORGINS 
OR CHAMPERY. 

Several routes may be taken from 
Thonon to one or other of the two 
chief tributary glens, those of Morgins 
and Champery, of the Val d'liliez, all 
of them passing through agreeable 
scenery. 

I. By the Pas de Morgins. — Carriage 
road to Morgins (28 m. ), and thence 
Iij m. to Monthey, in all 39^ rn. 

From Thonon the road is the same 
as that over the Col des Gets (Rte. 
M. a) as far as (7-J m.) Pont de Bioge. 
It then bends E. through a pictur- 
esque gorge along the r. bank of the 



ROUTE N. THONON TO MONTHEY 



425 



Dranse o? Abondance, and passes just 1 
below (13 m. ) Vacheresse. 

[Hence the Pas de Piss, or Col de 
Bise, leads over to Vouvry in hrs. , 
and the Cornettes de Bise may be 
ascended e?i route. The Dent cP Oche 
can be attained also in 5 hrs. by the 
Darbon and Oche huts, Rte. K.] 

The Dranse is crossed several times 
before (19J m,) Abondance (930m., 
3,051 ft.) is reached. The church 
dates from the fourteenth century 
(parts are of the twelfth), and con- 
tains some interesting antiquities, 
especially in the sacristy. It for- I 
merly belonged to the house of Austin 
Canons Regular, founded here in | 
1 108, whence colonies were sent out 
to Sixt (1 144) and to Val dTlliez j 
( 133 1 ). Hence by its S. ridge the 
traveller can climb (4 hrs. ) the Pointe j 
de Grange (2,438 m. , 7,999 ft. ), which 
is the highest point lying entirely in 
the Chablais, and commands a good 
view. The Abondance glen above 
the village is the best sample of the 
rich pastoral valleys of the Chablais. 
Like Gruyere it is hollowed out of I 
the Jurassic shales at their junction 
with the hard limestones, which rise | 
on the N. side of the glen in fine 
bold cliffs. (For the short cut from 
Abondance to the Col de Chesery, 
see below.) 

Hence the valley flattens and : 
widens. The road rises more rapidly 
to gain (23 m. ) La Chapelle oTAbon- I 
dance (1,009 m -> 3*3 11 ft-)> from which 
the Cornettes de Bise (2,437 m. , 7,996 I 
ft.), due N. of the hamlet, may be 
climbed in 4J hrs. , or Vouvry reached 
by the Col de Vernaz in 6 hrs. Pas- ! 
tures and forests are seen on every side, j 
1 J m. beyond La Chapelle is Chat el, \ 
where are some mineral springs, and 
hence some zigzags in the forest lead 
up to the Pas de Morgins (1,375 m., j 
4,511 ft.), on the divide between 
France and Switzerland. The road 
traverses a small plain, leaves a lake 
on the r., and descends to (28 m. ) 
Morgins (1,343 m., 4,406 ft.), now 
much frequented in summer by French 
visitors because of its iron waters. 



[The pretty pass of Porte du Soleil 
to Champery (4! hrs.) is noticed in 
Rte. H, and other pleasant excursions 
can be made hence.] 

From Morgins the road runs E. 
down the glen, magnificent views of 
the Dent du Midi being gained on 
the way. Six great zigzags (several 
short cuts for pedestrians) bring the 
traveller in 8 m. to the high road in 
the Val dTlliez, close to Trois Tor- 
rents, whence it is 3J- m. more to 
Monthey, 11-5- m. from Morgins. 

2. By the Pas de Chesery. — This 
is a circuitous, but very pretty route. 
From Thonon the road towards the 
Col des Gets (Rte. M. a) is followed 
to (i8|m.) the bridge at which the 
ways to Taninges and Samoens part. 
A side road mounts hence to the S.E. 
in a mile to the village of Montriond 
(whence it goes on to Morzine, 2 m. . 
Rte. M). 

[If bound for the Col direct it is 
better not to go to the village, but to 
take a path before entering it.] 

The way now lies N.E. along the 
E. branch of the Dranse de Morzine up 
to (| hr. ) the pretty bright blue lake 
of Montr iond (1,049 m -> 3?44 2 ft.), 
\ m. long, and hemmed in on the 
farther side by huge precipices rising 
perpendicularly from the water's edge. 
It is said that there is now a mountain 
inn here. Passing between bold rocks 
and cascades, and through a pine 
forest, the traveller climbs past a first 
step in the glen to a second whereon 
{\\ hr. from the lake) are the Lyndaret 
chalets. 

[Hence Abondance may be reached 
in 4^ hrs. by the Col de Bassachaux 
and the hamlet of Plagues. *y 

From Lyndaret the path mounts 
S.E. up grass slopes to the Pas de 
Chesery (2,005 m -> 6,578 ft.) The 
Col is a small grassy plain, from 
which, a little way down on the 
Swiss side, it is easy to descend to 
either Morgins or Champery. If 
bound for Morgins (ij- hr. ) the 
traveller should bear N.E., and go 
down by zigzags to the wooded glen 
of the Vieze de Tine, which is followed 



426 PENNINE ALPS. § 18. GRAND COMBIN DISTRICT 



to Morgins. Champery is gained in 2 
hrs. from the Col by going S.E. past 
the upper Lac Vert, the low neck of 
the Porte du Lac J r ert, and Crosey. 

3. By the Col de Coux.— From 
Morzine the shortest course is to 
follow the central branch of the Dranse 
de Morzine in a S.E. direction to its 
head, where the mule path between 
the Col de la Golese and the Col de 
Coux (Rte. G. 1) is struck. The 
former leads to Samoens, and the 
latter to Champery. 

Another way from Morzine to 
Champery is by the Col des Cases, or 
de Champery, lying rather S. of the 
Pas de Chesery. On the other side 
the path from the last-named pass is 
joined at Crosey. 



SECTION 18. 

GRA XD C OMBIN D IS TR IC T. 

The division of the Pennine Alps 
extending between the Col Ferret 
and the Simplon into subordinate 
groups is a purely arbitrary process, 
dictated by convenience, but not rest- 
ing on orographical or geographical 
grounds. The range of Mont Blanc 
(or the W. bit of the Pennines) is, 
on the contrary, completely distinct, 
and cut off on the N.E. by the valley 
of the Dranse. The great group of 
which the culminating point is Monte 
Rosa may be considered to be limited 
on the W. by the route over the Col 
Ferret through the Swiss and Italian 
Ferret valleys, while on the E. its 
natural boundary is the Simplon. 
Between these two passes we may 
distinguish, for the sake of con- 
venience, four groups, divided from 
each other by the routes of the Col 
de Chermontane. of the St. Theodule, 
and of the Monte Mora, and described 
in the present and three following 
Sections. Nowadays the ranges 
between the Col Ferret and the St. 
Theodule are often called the 'Cen- 



tral Pennines,' while those between 
the St. Theodule and the Simplon 
are named the ' Eastern Pennines. 1 

In the present Section we include 
the western portion of the Central 
Pennines, whose culminating point is 
the Grand Combin, the highest peak 
in the Alps outside the immediate 
neighbourhood of Mont Blanc and 
Monte Rosa. On the N. side of the 
watershed this district comprises the 
main valleys of Entremont and Bagnes, 
with their tributary streams and 
glaciers, all drained by the Dranse, 
while on the S. side of the divide it 
includes the basin of the Buthier, 
which joins the Dora Baltea at Aosta. 
The E. limit of this Section is formed 
by the ridge running, roughly speak- 
ing, S. and E. of the great Otemma 
glacier, and the route of the Col de 
Chermontane from its head to Arolla. 

Although the pass of the Great St. 
Bernard has been known from very 
early times, and annually crossed by 
hundreds of pilgrims, tourists, and 
workmen, and the parallel pass of the 
Col de Fenetre through the Val de 
Bagnes has been familiar to the 
natives for many centuries, yet it 
was long before the snowy regions on 
either side of these passes were ex- 
plored by travellers. M. Murith, 
later (1792-1816) Prior of the Great 
St. Bernard, scaled, indeed, the Mont 
Velan in 1779, and Bourrit about 
the same time visited the Otemma 
glacier. But it was only in the fifties 
that the Combin and its neighbours 
were explored, first by the indefatig- 
able Herr Gottlieb Studer, closely 
followed by Mr. W. Mathews, while 
the Rev. S. W. King made known 
the beauties of the ' Italian Valleys 
of the Pennine Alps. ' Not very long 
after the foundation of the English 
and Swiss Alpine Clubs, however, a 
great step forward was taken in the 
early sixties. The English climbers 
chiefly directed their attention to the 
discovery of a continuous route along 
the main range of the Pennine Alps 
from Chamonix to Zermatt, while the 
Swiss mountaineers devoted their at- 



§ 18. GRAND COMBIN DISTRICT 



427 



tention rather to the peaks N. and S. 
of the Otemma glacier. Yet even to 
this day the Italian side of this W. 
bit of the Central Pennines is among 
the least known and most rarely visited 
parts of the Western Alps. Aspiring 
mountaineers of the present time will 
therefore find that there are consider- 
able gleanings yet to be made even in 
what is held by some to be an ' ex- 
hausted district.' 

As mentioned above, the main 
object of the early English explorers 
was to discover a ' High- Level Route' 
from Chamonix to Zermatt, keeping 
high up on the mountains all the way. 
The original route sketched out has, 
however, been but rarely taken, as 
the first glacier pass is not an easy 
one, and the second very danger- 
ous by reason of falling stones. It 
lay over the Col d'iVrgentiere from 
Lognan to the Swiss Val Ferret, thence 
over the easy Col des Planards to 
Bourg St. Pierre ; the dangerous Col 
du Sonadon led over to the Chermon- 
tane or Chanrion huts, whence Zer- 
matt was gained in two days by the 
Col d'Oren to Praraye, at the head of 
the Valpelline, and the Col de Val- 
pelline to the Z'Mutt glacier. But 
travellers who can accomplish this 
long journey in 5 days must be in 
very good training, and favoured by 
steady fine weather. Many variations 
have been made on this original line. 
The following is offered as one among 
many possible alternatives. The tra- 
veller coming from Chamonix should 
cross the Col du Chardonnet to the 
Swiss Val Ferret, or go on the same 
day over the Fenetre de Saleinaz to 
Orsieres (which may also be reached 
direct from the Chamonix valley by 
the Col du Tour). From the Swiss Val 
Ferret or Orsieres the new Club hut 
at Chanrion is the next point for 
which to make. This may be reached 
by the Col des Planards to Bourg St. 
Pierre, and then either by the Col 
des Maisons Blanches (climbing the 
Grand Combin on the way) to Fionnay, 
in the Bagnes valley, or by crossing the 
Mont Velan to the By chalets, and then 



either gaining Fionnay by the Grand 
Combin, or Chanrion direct by the 
Col de Fenetre and the Mont Gele. 
From Chanrion the traveller may 
either follow the original route by the 
Cols d'Oren and de Valpelline, or take 
the Col de Seilon (climbing the Mont 
Blanc de Seilon or the Ruinette on 
the way) and the Pas de Chevres to 
Arolla, thence gaining Zermatt by the 
Col de Bertol (ascending en route 
the Aiguille de la Za, or even the 
highest of the Dents des Bouquetins) 
and the Col d'Herens. The wise 
traveller will not hasten through scenes 
of such surpassing beauty, while any 
one in a hurry can go from Chamonix 
to Zermatt by Geneva or the Tete 
Noire, and then by railway. 

Some enterprising mountaineers 
have succeeded in going from Zermatt 
to the huts of Chermontane or of 
Chanrion in a single day, but it is 
obvious that an expedition lying for 
so great a distance at so high a level, 
and almost altogether over neve, will 
be found practicable only under un- 
usually favourable circumstances. In 
1863 Messrs. E. N. Buxton and K. 
E. Digby, with Franz Biner, achieved 
the journey from the Z'Mutt huts, above 
Zermatt, to those of Chermontane in 
a single day of rather more than 
10 hrs.' walking, and in 1876 Mr. 
Girdlestone's party, without guides, 
went from Zermatt itself to Chanrion 
in I2§ hrs.' walking. This ' express 
route ' from Chanrion leads over the 
Otemma gl., the Col du Petit Mont 
Collon (3,300 m. , 10,827 ft. ), S. of the 
Petit Mont Collon, and the Col de 
l'Eveque to the Col de Collon, and 
then by the N. Col du Mont Brule to 
the Col de Valpelline route, not far 
from this pass, which is traversed to 
the Z'Mutt gl. 

In this district the best headquar- 
ters for mountaineers are the villages 
of Bourg St. Pierre and Fionnay, 
whence the Velan and Combin ranges 
may at present be best explored. 
Some day, when the Club hut at 
Chanrion, at the very head of the 
Val de Bagnes, has given place to the 



428 PENNINE ALPS. § 18. GRAND COMBIN DISTRICT 



small mountain inn long desired by 
climbers, and when there is a com- 
panion inn at the By huts, above 
Ollomont, these spots will become the 
most frequented centres of the district. 
There is a Club hut, that of Panos- 
siere, on the E. bank of the Corbas- 
siere gl., while at the W. foot of 
the Col des Maisons Blanches there 
is a small shelter hut, built by the 
Baileys, the Bourg St. Pierre guides. 

Sir Martin Conway's ' Central Pen- 
nine Alps' volume (1890), in the 
1 Climbers' Guides ' series, gives much 
useful information, but should be sup- 
plemented by reference to more recent 
articles published in the various 
Alpine periodicals. 



Route A. 

MARTIGNY TO AOSTA BY THE GREAT 
ST. BERNARD. 

Char road to the Hospice, and from 
St. Re"my ; mule path (railway pro- 
jected) from the Hospice to St. R£my. 
A char should be taken at least as 
far as Orsieres, and from St. R£my. 
About 16 hrs. 

This pass is celebrated for its 
Hospice, one of the earliest, if not 
quite the earliest, of its kind. But the 
scenery is dull and uninteresting, and 
in that respect the way by the Val de 
Bagnes and Col de Fenetre (Rte. E) 
is infinitely to be preferred. 

From the station at Martigny 
(§21. Rte. A) the road traverses suc- 
cessively Martig7iy Ville and Mar- 
tigny Bourg (1 m. ), and crosses the 
Dranse to the lower houses {La 
Croix) of Martigny Combe {\\ m. ), 
beyond which (2J m. from Martigny 
Ville), at Le Bivcard, the route over 
the Col de la Forclaz (§16. Rte. H) 
towards Chamonix turns off to the r. 
The St. Bernard road follows the bend 
of the Dranse in an E. direction, and 
soon comes in sight of the Catogne 



(2,599 m., 8,527 ft.), which blocks 
the direct way to Orsieres and the head 
of the Dranse valley. The road and 
the river wind round its N. base. 
About 4 m. from Martigny Ville a 
char road mounts from the hamlet of 
Les Valettes in \ hr. to the entrance 
of the fine Gorges du Durnant, which 
are well worth visiting. 

[Through them lies the path to the 
lovely Lac de Champex and Orsieres, 
a walk which cannot be too highly 
recommended. See § 16. Rte. I.J 

Soon after passing the poor village 
of Bovernier the road returns to the r. 
bank of the Dranse, and proceeds 
through a wild defile at the foot of the 
Catogne, passing at one point through 
a tunnel about 200 ft. long. This part 
of the valley still exhibits traces of 
the terrible inundation of 18 18, caused 
by the advance of the Gietroz glacier 
(Rte. E) ; and immediately beyond 
the tunnel the traveller may notice 
the remains of a convent (inhabited 
; by Trappist monks from 1797, but 
I originally a building connected with 
• some abandoned iron mines) which 
I was destroyed by that flood. Just 
I after the road crosses again to the 
j r. bank, and soon reaches 

Sembrancher (720 m., 2,362 ft.), 
I 9 m. from Martigny, a poor village at 
the meeting of the E. branch of the 
Dranse, flowing from the Val de 
Bagnes, with the W. branch, descend- 
ing from the Great St. Bernard, 
through the Val d* Entremont. It 
was the birthplace in 1742 of M. 
Murith, later Prior of the Great 
St. Bernard, a celebrated botanist, 
! and the first conqueror of the Velan, 
in 1779. 

[Hence a track — of late much im- 
proved — leads past Vollege over the 
Col du Lens, or Lin (1,660 m. , 
5,446 ft.)— where there is now the 
charmingly-situated Grand Hdtel de la 
Pierre a Voir — in 5 hrs. to Saxon, in 
the Rhone valley, § 21. Rte. A.J 

The scenery hence to Liddes is pleas- 
ing, but not of a striking character. 
■ The ruins of several castles are seen 
I near Sembrancher. In that just above 



ROUTE A. MARTIGNY TO AOSTA 



429 



the village the Emperor Sigismond, 
with his large suite, lodged in 141 4 on 
his way over the St. Bernard to the 
Council of Bale. From Sembrancher 
the St. Bernard road turns due S., 
that to the Val de Bagnes continuing 
towards the E. (Rte. E.) The 
Dranse is crossed twice before the 
traveller gains (13! miles from Mar- 
tigny) 

Orsieres (890 m., 2,920 ft.), the 
chief village of the valley. It stands 
close to the junction of the Dranse de 
Ferret with the Dranse d'Entremont, 
and at the meeting of the routes to 
Courmayeur by the Col Ferret (§16. 
Rte. K), to Chamonix by the Lac de 
Champex(§ 16. Rte. I), or by the Orny, 
Saleinaz, Tour, and Argentiere glaciers 
(§16. Rtes. L and M), and to Aosta 
by the Great St. Bernard. 

Throughout the lower part of the 
Val d'Entremont the botanist will be 
interested by observing the presence of 
many plants usually characteristic of a 
warm climate, along with sub-alpine 
species that have descended from the 
neighbouring mountains. Thus he 
may find Vesicaria utriculata, 
Ononis nat7'ix and O. rotundifolia, 
Astragalus onobrychis, Vicia onobry- 
cko'ides, Caucalis grandiflora,, Onosma 
montanum, Antirrhinum Bauhini, 
Euphrasia lutea, Ca?npamda bono?ii- 
ensis, Stipa capillata, Bronius 
squarrosus, and B. tectormn, along 
with Se??ipervivum ai'achno'idetim, 
Scutellaria alpiiia, Juniper us sabina, 
Goodyera repens, Poa alpina, &c. 

From Orsieres the road begins 
to ascend more rapidly, winding up 
the E. slope of the valley, where the 
pedestrian may make several short 
cuts, to Liddes, 1,338 m., 4,390 ft. 
(4! m. ), a village at a considerable ele- 
vation, though cultivation does not 
seem to suffer, as the valley is 
warm. 

[Hence the Col de PAzet or de la 
Lana (3,037 m., 9,964 ft.) leads over 
to Lourtier, or Fionnay, in the Val de 
Bagnes ; or the traveller may cross a 
second pass, the Col des Avolions, 
to the Corbassiere glacier, and may 



even continue over a third, the Col 
des Otanes, or the Col de Botzeresse, 
to the inn at Mauvoisin. The moun- 
taineer will prefer to reach the Club 
hut on the r. bank of the Corbas- 
siere glacier by the Boveyre glacier 
and the Co I de Panosseyre, 2X its head 
— a very fine snow walk of 7 or 
8 hours, which may just as easily 
be made from Bourg St. Pierre. 
A pedestrian may vary the way from 
Liddes to Bourg St. Pierre by mount- 
ing the pastures between the high 
road and the Combe de La on the 
W., taking the fine view point of 
the Mourin (2,769 m., 9,085 ft.) en 
route, and may prolong his walk by 
continuing up the Combe de La to 
the Col des Nevi de la Rossa (2, 752 m. , 
9,029 ft.), at its head, and then bear- 
ing S.E. into the Planards glen, 
Rte. C.J 

The ascent continues rather steep 
for the next 3 miles or so to Bourg" St. 
Pierre (1,633 m -> 5,358 ft.), a miser- 
able-looking village, which, however, 
still contains various records of the 
importance of the pass with which 
its history is bound up. Near the 
church is a Roman milestone of the 
younger Constantine. The church 
tower is very ancient, while the door 
step of the church has a nearly effaced 
inscription recording the original 
building of the church (since recon- 
structed) by Bishop Hugh of Geneva 
(1019-1038), and an allusion to the 
tenth-century harryings of the Fraxi- 
netum Saracens, after whose defeat it 
was possible to rebuild the church. 
The original Hospice of the pass was 
as early as the ninth century in Bourg 
St. Pierre, but was transferred and 
refounded in the eleventh century on 
the crest of the pass by St. Bernard 
of Menthon. Napoleon's sojourn in 
the village in May 1800, on his way 
over the pass, is commemorated by 
the name of the inn, 4 Au Dejeuner 
de Napoleon,' the room occupied 
by him being still shown. The large 
house just N.W. of the church, and 
conspicuous from its massive chimney, 
has a large mediaeval hall, with traces 



430 PENNINE ALPS. § 18. GRAND COMBIN DISTRICT 



of frescoes, and * graffiti ' over the 
fireplace, including the date 1442. 
Just outside the village, on a hillock 
to the L of the road towards the pass, 
is the * Linnaea ' gard en of Alpine 
plants, established and maintained by 
the Genevese ' Societe pour la Pro- 
tection des Plantes.' 

[Several pleasant excursions and 
ascents can be made from Bourg St. 
Pierre. The Mourin (2,769 m., 
9,085 ft.), on the W., and the Croix 
de Tzouss (2,830 m., 9,285 ft.), on the 
S. E. , can each be gained in about 3 
hrs., and command very fine views. 
More laborious, though not difficult, 
are the ascents of the Ritoi'd (3,568 
m. ? 11,707 ft.), on theN.W. (5| hrs. 
by the Challand d'Amont huts, a 
couloir, and the S.E. rock face), the 
Moine (3,574 m., 11,726 ft.), and the 
Aiguille des Maisons Blanches {3,699 
m., 12,136 ft.), each 5 \ hrs. byway 
of the Grand Combin shelter hut, 
gullies, and the main ridge. All 
these peaks lie in the ridge which 
forms the W. boundary of the Cor- 
bassiere and Boveyre glaciers. The 
most direct route to the Val de Bagnes 
is the Col des Maisons Blanches, with 
which may be combined the ascent 
of the Grand Combin (Rte. F). But, 
as the shelter hut on the Bourg St. 
Pierre side is very poor, it is better to 
make that ascent from the Panossiere 
Club hut (2,715 m., 8,908ft.), on the 
r. bank of the Corbassiere gl. ; this 
may be best reached in 7 or 8 hrs. from 
Bourg St. Pierre by the fine and easy 
snow pass of the Col de Panosseyre 
(c. 3,400 m., 11,155 ft.), just S.W. of 
the Combin de Corbassiere (3,722 m., 
12,212 ft.), which may be climbed 
by a detour of I J hr. ( This pass leads 
up the Boveyre gl. , and can be directly 
reached from Bourg St. Pierre by the 
Challand d'Amont alp, and then by 
the gap E. of the Bonhomme du 
Tzapi, and over the ridge between 
the Ritord and the Merignier. ) The 
chief ascent from Bourg St. Pierre, the 
Mont Velan, 3.765 m., 12,353 ft. 
(6 hrs.), is described in Rte. D, while 
the various passes to the Swiss Val 



Ferret, the Valpelline, and the Chan- 
rion Club hut are the subject of 
Rtes. C, D, and G.J 

Above Bourg St. Pierre the road 
crosses a deep gorge through which 
the torrent from the Valsorey (forming 
a little higher up a fine waterfall) 
descends to join the Dranse, and then 
mounts, being partly cut in the rock, 
by a gradual ascent at a great height 
above the Dranse to a stony little 
plain, on which stands the humble inn 
called Cantine de Proz, 1,802 m., 
: 5,912 ft. (3| m.) 

[From the further end of this 
! plain an old road leads up by a 
series of zigzags to the entrance of 
a tunnel (2,324 m., 7,625 ft.) which 
; pierces the ridge between Switzerland 
and Italy, below the Col de Menouve 
i {2,y6S m. , 9,082 ft. ) By this means it 
was hoped to avoid the steep descent 
I from the Hospice to St. Remy, but 
financial obstacles prevented the com- 
! pletion of this project. The Col de 
Menouve leads over into the bare 
i glen of the same name, which joins 
the Buthier valley at Etroubles. The 
pass may be reached by slopes of 
stones in 1 hr. from the Swiss mouth 
of the tunnel, and the Pic de Menouve 
(3,055 m., 10,023 ft.) gained in an 
: hour more. But a mountaineer will 
; probably prefer to take the Mont 
j Velan on the way to Aosta rather 
I than this unfrequented and not very 

interesting pass. J 
I The road having traversed the plain 
I of Proz mounts by zigzags in a S. direc- 
tion up rugged, but not very steep, 
I slopes. The scenery is rather wild than 
I grand, as the way lies through the 
j gloomy Combe des Moris, which is for 
' the most part shut in by rocks, inter- 
spersed with patches of snow. A 
1 wayside cross marks the spot where 
one of the Canons and three servants 
I perished in an avalanche in Novem- 
; ber 1854. The most considerable 
snow patch, lying in a hollow where 
it scarcely ever melts, is passed, and 
a few minutes later the traveller finds 
himself on the crest of the pass 
j (1J-2 hrs. from the Cantine), and 



ROUTE A. MARTIGNY TO AO ST A 



43i 



close to the Hospice of the Great St. 
Bernard (2,472 m., 8,111 ft.) 

The pass is a depression between 
theChenalette(2,889 m., 9,479 ft. ) and 
the Mont Mort (2,866 m., 9,403 ft.), 
and is directed N.E. and S.W. 
The massive stone building is there- 
fore exposed to the full force of the 
wind from these opposite quarters, 
while partially sheltered in other direc- 
tions. It consists of stabling and 
storehouses on the ground floor ; the 
first floor is occupied by various offices 
and the Chapel, while on the second 
floor are the refectory, the drawing- 
room, and the rooms in which about 
80 tourists can be lodged. An 
adjoining house, the Hotel St. 
Louis, is chiefly intended as a refuge 
in case of need, the Hospice having 
twice been partially destroyed by fire. 
Near at hand is the Morgue, a low 
building, the ghastly contents of 
which may be inspected through a 
grated window. Here the bodies of 
persons who have perished on the 
pass are kept until claimed by their 
relatives. At this height the dryness 
of the air and the severe cold cause 
the bodies to shrivel without decom- 
position. But the introduction of the 
telephone, by which the news of the 
departure of travellers in winter is sent 
up to the Hospice, has saved many 
lives, since if the adventurers do not 
arrive at the proper time they are at 
once sought for. 

To attempt a sketch of the history 
of the pass and of the Hospice from 
the time of the Celtic Veragri, who 
may have built a temple here, to that 
of the passage of Napoleon's army in 
May, 1800, does not enter into the 
plan of this work. The site of the 
Roman temple of Jupiter Penninus 
(from which the pass took its mediaeval 
name of Mons Jovis, or Montjoux) 
is still marked by steps cut into the 
rock> but no part of the building 
remains. Many inscriptions and other 
objects of interest have been found 
here, and are preserved in the Museum 
in the Hospice. The original Hospice 
was at Bourg St. Pierre, but possibly I 



even before the Saracen raids in the 
tenth century had been transferred to 
the summit of the pass. At any rate it 
was refounded there in the eleventh cen- 
tury by St. Bernard of Menthon (above 
the Lake ofAnnecy, §11. Rte. E), 
and since the twelfth century has been 
in the charge of a community of Austin 
Canons Regular. This is composed 
of about forty members, ten or twelve 
being stationed here all the year round, 
while others reside (since the early 
part of the nineteenth century) at the 
Hospice on the Simplon. The mother 
house is at Martigny, and here live 
the Provost and those of the Canons 
whose health no longer allows them 
to face the severe Alpine winters, a 
result which commonly happens after 
twelve to fifteen years' residence on 
the St. Bernard. The number of 
persons who annually cross the pass 
is estimated at 25,000, a very large 
proportion of whom are poor Italian 
workmen, who migrate in the spring 
and return home in the autumn. The 
vast majority of the passers-by are fed 
and sheltered gratuitously, and no 
demand is made from the traveller 
for pleasure, despite the superior way 
in which he is entertained ; but it is 
understood that those who can afford 
it should give at least as much as they 
would pay in an ordinary hotel. Such 
offerings should be placed in the box 
provided for that purpose in the Chapel. 
The property of the community has 
been very much reduced during the 
present century, and their means of re- 
lieving poor travellers proportionately 
diminished, so that well-to-do passers- 
by should not fail to remember to 
make a suitable offering, the whole 
amount of which is expended on 
charitable purposes. At present 
travellers are only allowed to spend 
one night at the Hospice, unless in 
special cases, and provisions for 
mountain expeditions are not sup- 
plied, while breakfast cannot be 
obtained till after mass is over, about 
6 A.M. There is a telegraph (on the 
Swiss side only), and also a Post Office 
and a telephone. Visitors are re- 



432 PENNINE ALPS. § 18. GRAND COMBIN DISTRICT 



ceived by the Clavandier, or Bursar 
(representing the Prior), but the table 
is laid in a separate room for ladies 
and gentlemen travelling in their com- 
pany. The food is plain, but quite 
sufficient, while the beds are clean 
and as comfortable as can be expected 
in so exposed a situation. Travellers 
all acknowledge the courtesy and 
attention with which they are received. 
The albums, containing the names of 
many distinguished persons, a con- 
siderable assortment of books, a piano 
presented by the Prince of Wales, 
some collections of natural history, 
including the plants and minerals of 
the neighbourhood, and the Museum, 
will help to pass the time in case of 
detention by bad weather. The 
traveller will, of course, notice the 
celebrated dogs, some of which are 
often about the entrance. They are 
very powerful animals and of mixed 
race, but suitable for rescuing travellers 
in winter time, when confused by 
storms and impeded by snow drifts. At 
such times (especially if a telephone 
message has been received) two or 
three of the servants, or 'maronniers,' 
descend daily, with dogs, on either side 
of the pass, in order to assist any who 
may be forced to make the passage at 
that season. Irrespective of its primary 
mission of charity the community has 
incidentally performed some sendees 
to the cause of natural science, especi- 
ally by the maintenance (since 1817) 
of a regular series of meteorological 
observations. These were formerly 
very useful to persons engaged in 
hypsometrical enquiries in the High 
Alps, the need of which has been 
superseded by the work of the various 
Government surveyors. The mean 
temperature of the year at the PIos- 
pice is 29-3° Fahr. The greatest cold 
recorded is said to be — 29 0 (in 1854), 
and the greatest heat 68° (in 1837). 
The snow usually lies unmelted for 
nine months, but there have been 
seasons when not a week passed 
without fresh snow. The average 
snowfall is about 15 ft. 

[For those who spend a fine after- 



! noon or morning at the Hospice the 
ascent of the Chenalette (2,889 m., 
9,479 ft.), or of the Mont Mort 
(2,866 m., 9,403 ft.), is recommended, 
I either being accessible in about I hr. 
The view of the range of Mont Blanc 
well rewards the slight trouble of the 
ascent. More distant are the Pic de 
Dronaz, 2,949 m -> 9)676 ft. (2jhrs. ), 
and the Pain de Sucre, 2,792 m., 
9,160 ft. (3 hrs. ), from the latter of 
I which an easy ridge leads in another 
hour to the higher RIont Fourchons 
(2,900 m., 9,515 ft.) It is more con- 
venient to ascend the Velan (the 
I highest rocks of which, though not the 
: highest snowy summit, are seen from 
the Hospice) from Bourg St. Pierre, 
or from the Cantine de Proz, than from 
the Hospice. For the passes and 
peaks between the Hospice and Cour- 
mayeur or Aosta see Rte. B."| 

On the W T . side the Hospice over- 
looks a small lake (through which 
runs the political frontier), beyond 
which, framed between two points, 
the conical summit of the Pain de 
Sucre is conspicuous. 

A column by the side of the lake 
marks the frontier, and the foot path 
(the mule path makes a round to the 
r. ) soon begins to descend rapidly, 
winding round the mountain-side to 
the 1. A view towards the S. gradually 
opens before the eyes of the traveller, 
who once again sees trees and cultiva- 
tion. In a green basin of the Alpine 
pastures is the Vacherie, where the 
convent cows are kept in summer, 
and a Cantine. The botanist, who 
will find near the Hospice many of 
the characteristic species of the High 
Alps, and some rarities, e.g. Carex 
microstylla, may gather several uncom- 
mon plants on his way down towards 
St. Remy, especially Pedicularis atro- 
rubens, and some scarce lichens. The 
descent from the Vacherie is rather 
steep, by a series of zigzags, to the 
poor village (with the Italian custom 
house) of St. Remy [\\ hr. from the 
Hospice), 1,632 m., 5,355 ft. Those 
who carry more than a small number 
i of cigars wil do well to declare them. 



ROUTE B. GT. ST. BERNARD HOSPICE TO COURMAYEUR 433 



as the regulations are very strict. 
(This is the best starting point for the 
ascents of the Mont Fallere, &c., and 
for several passes in the direction of 
Courmayeur and Aosta. See Rtes. 
B and C. ) 

The traveller acts wisely to hire a 
char here for the descent to Aosta, 
as the valley is hot and steep. The 
change in vegetation is very rapid, 
particularly after passing St. Oyen and 
Etroubles, and reaching Gignod. The 
last-named village is above the junction 
of the main stream of the Buthier, 
flowing from the Valpelline, with the 
lesser branch coming from the Combe 
des Bosses. The fine chestnut trees, 
and the richness of the trellised vines, 
contrasted with the snowy summits 
of the Valpelline, and of the Cogne 
group, form pictures of extreme beauty . 
A little farther on the traveller gains 
his first view of the enchanting little 
city (at the foot of the Becca di Nona 
and the Mont Emilius) of Aosta (de- 
scribed in § 15. Rte A. which is 
3J-4 hrs.' walking (iJ-2 hrs. in a 
char) from St. Remy. 



Route B. 

GREAT ST. BERNARD HOSPICE TO 
COURMAYEUR. 

In descending by the usual road 
from the Great St. Bernard Hospice 
towards Aosta the traveller has on his 
right hand a range running from N. E. 
to S.W., of which the highest sum- 
mit is the Grande Rochere (3,326 m., 
10,913 ft.) This ridge separates him 
from the Italian Val Ferret, while 
facing him another ridge, running 
nearly due E. and W., and crowned 
by the Mont Fallere (3,062 m., 
10,046 ft.), shuts him off from the 
valley of Aosta. The glen lying 
between the two ranges is called the 
Combe des Bosses. It is traversed by 
1. 



a branch of the Buthier, which flows 
E, , and joins, beneath Gignod, the 
main branch of that torrent, descend- 
ing from the Valpelline on the N. E. ; 
the united streams, after draining the 
S. side of the Central Pennine Alps, 
merge in the Dora Baltea (to which 
it gives its name, for Buthier becomes 
Baltea through the form 'Bauthe- 
gium '), under the walls of Aosta. 
There are, therefore, several direct 
ways from the Hospice or St. Remy 

I to Courmayeur, thus enabling a tra- 
veller to avoid the great detour by 
Aosta. They are briefly indicated 
here 3 as they - may tempt mountain- 
eers to explore a little-visited bit of 
the Alpine chain whence the views 

I of the Mont Blanc are exceedingly 

! grand. 

I I. Over Peaks. — In the ranges just 
mentioned there are three conspicuous 
summits, any of which can be taken 
on the way from the Hospice to Cour- 
mayeur. The loftiest is the Grande 
Rochere (3,326 m., 10,913 ft.), which 
therefore commands a most magnifi- 
cent view. It is best reached from 
the Hospice by the steep rocks of its 
E. face, the foot of which may be 
gained by the route of the Col Serena 
(2. c. below). The descent is made 
by a couloir, or ridge coming straight 
from the top, to the head of the 
Chambave glen, whence Courmayeur 
is reached either by the Cols de 
Chambave and de Chappy, or by 
descending the Chambave glen, and 
then the lower bit of the Planavalle 
valley to Morgex, 4 m. below Cour- 
mayeur, on the high road from 
Aosta. The Grand Golliaz (3,240 m., 
10,630 ft.) may be attained in 6 hrs. 
from the Hospice by way of the 
Col de St. Remy and the small glacier 
at the head of the Thoula branch of 
the Combe des Bosses ; but it is 
shorter to ascend it by its S.W. arete 
in 3§ hrs. from the highest huts in the 
Italian Val Ferret. It is reported 
that the rocks of the E. face are good, 
and that by moderately steep snow 
gullies the glacier at its N. foot could 
be gained from the summit. The at- 
F F 



434 PENNINE ALPS. § 18. GRAND COMBIN DISTRICT 



tempt is worth making, as the moun- 
tain is a belvedere of the first class. 
The Mont Fallere ( 3 , 062 m. , 1 o , 046 ft . ) 
is most easily attained from St. Remy 
by the Frassin glen, and the Co lie 
Finestra at its head. Aosta may be 
gained in 4 hrs. from the top by a 
path which leads down to the Regina 
Margherita Club hut (2,969 m., 
9,741 ft.), whence a mule path de- 
scends through the Clusata or Clusella 
glen to Sarre, 3 m. from the city of 
Aosta. If bound for Courmayeur 
direct the mountaineer should from 
the Lac des Moris (2,642 m. , 8,668 ft. ), 
below the peak, bear always to the 
S.W., and cross first the Passo di 
Paletta (2,712 m., 8,898 ft.) to the 
beautiful Vertosan glen, and then the 
Col de Bar to La Salle , just above the 
high road, 6\ m. below Courmayeur. 

2. By Passes. — The traveller has 
quite a bewildering variety of passes 
from which to make a selection. 

{a) Col de Fenstre.— The way is 
pretty well traced, as it is daily tra- 
versed in summer by the mules em- 
ployed to carry wood from the Swiss 
Val Ferret to the Hospice. It winds 
round to the W. , then N.W., to the 
pass (2,699 m -j 8,855 ft.), reached in 
little more than 1 hr. from the Hos- 
pice. The descent lies over high 
broken ground, passes near some 
small tarns, and descends to the Pla?i 
la CAaud huts, joining the Col Ferret 
path some way above the Swiss Ferret 
huts, which are 3-3 J hrs. from the 
Hospice. (A short cut to the 1. or 
W. may be taken from the Plan la 
Chaud huts by crossing first the Ban 
d'Arrey stream by means of a bridge, 
and later forcing a passage somewhere 
over that from the Col Ferret, in 
order to gain the path to that pass. ) 
The Col Ferret is reached in about 
5 hrs. from the Hospice, and the de- 
scent thence to Courmayeur takes 
3|-4hrs. (§16. Rte. K.) The advan- 
tage of this route consists in the fine 
view of the range of Mont Blanc 
which is obtained from the Col Ferret. 
It may also serve to vary the way 
back to Martigny for a traveller who 



has mounted thence to the Hospice, 
and would return into Switzerland. 
It is, however, a shorter and finer 
excursion for any one bound to Cour- 
mayeur to mount direct from the Plan 
la Chaud huts in a S. direction and 
cross the Col du Ban d'Arrey (2,695 m - > 
8,842 ft.) to the highest huts in the 
Italian Val Ferret. 

(b) Col de Chapy, Col de Malatra, 
and Col de St. Rimy. — This is the 
most direct, though scarcely the short- 
est route. The Col de Chapy (for- 
merly called Col de Sapin), gained in 
2 hrs. from Courmayeur, lies at the 
head of the Chapy glen, across a 
grassy ridge, and may be reached by 
a mule. Keeping nearly due E. from 
the Col, but descending a little, the 
traveller passes in \ hr. the Secheron 
hut, where the mule path comes to 
an end. He must then traverse a 
slight ridge, long slopes of stones, 
and patches of snow in a N.W. di- 
rection, in order to gain (2 hrs. from 
the hut) the Col de Malatra (formerly 
called Arteneva), 2,928 m., 9,607 ft., 
a mere notch in the black rocky 
ridge dividing the Italian Val Ferret 
I from the Combe des Bosses. 

[This pass overlooks one of the tri- 
| butary glens of the Bosses valley, and 
by that way St. Remy may be reached 
\ in 2 hrs. j hr. N. of the pass is the 
i Col de Bellecombe, which is attained 
i from Courmayeur by following the 
Col Ferret route (§ 16. Rte. K) as far 
as the Gnietta huts, and then going 
up the Bellecombe glen, the route on 
the other side soon joining that from 
the Col de Malatra. This route saves 
one pass on the way to the Hospice, 
but involves a great detour.] 

From the Col de Malatra the tra- 
veller bound for the Hospice must 
descend by snow slopes to the Muerda 
chalets (-J hr. ), and then reascend 
over slopes of shale and snow to the 
Col de St. Remy (f hr. ), whence the 
Hospice is reached either by the 
Cantine (2 hrs.) or by a shorter path 
to the 1. round the hill-side. About 
7-J-- 8 hrs. suffice for the whole distance 
from Courmayeur to the Hospice. 



ROUTE C. BOURG ST. PIERRE TO COURMAYEUR 435 



(c) Col Serena. — This way passes 
through the Combe des Bosses and 
is not very interesting, but it is the 
easiest way from the Hospice to Cour- 
mayeur, taking from 7 to 9 hrs. , ac- 
cording to the precise route adopted. 
The shortest course for a pedestrian is 
to follow a path which turns to the 
r. close to the Vacherie of the 
Hospice, and winds round the moun- 
tain slopes to the chalet at the foot 
of the final ascent to the pass, where 
it joins the regular track. This is a 
considerable short cut, as by it Cour- 
mayeur may be gained by a good 
walker in 7 hrs. from the Hospice, 
but it is fatiguing and requires a local 
guide. 

The ordinary route, which is pass- 
able for mules, descends as far as St. 
Remy, on the way to Aosta. ' You 
there take the road to the r. to 
San Leonardo, the principal hamlet 
in the Combe des Bosses, then go 
through fields for J hr. , and so arrive 
at the foot of the Col. Half an hours 
ascent through a pine forest brings 
you to the last chalet. Here, instead 
of following a road to the r. , go 
up the mountain slope by a steep 
zigzag path immediately behind the 
chalet, and \\ hr.'s good walking will 
land you on the top of the pass 
(2,538 m., 8,327 ft.) The scenery is 
very wild, especially towards the N. 
and N.W. , offering a great contrast 
to the beautifully cultivated valley of 
Aosta, which shortly afterwards comes 
into view.' After passing the Rantin 
huts the path goes down the Plana- 
valle glen to Mo7-ge (just above this 
hamlet the first view of the Aosta val- 
ley is gained ; it is, however, shorter 
to leave Morge \ m. on the 1. hand), 
whence it is f hr. by a stony path to 
Morgex, 4 m. below Courmayeur on 
the high road from Aosta (§ 14. 
Rte. G). In all about 9 hrs. are 
required by this route from the Hos- 
pice. The Serena abounds in ptar- 
migan and chamois. From the pass 
it is easy to bear N.W. towards the 
Grande Rochere (see 1. above). 



Route C. 

BOURG ST. PIERRE TO COURMAYEUR. 

Instead of going up to the Hospice 
a traveller bound for Courmayeur 
may go direct from Bourg St. Pierre 
to Courmayeur by several routes. 

1. By the Col des Planards. — The 
earlier explorers of the so-called High- 
Level Route between Chamonix and 
Zermatt left a break in the direct line 
from one of those places to the other 
for want of a convenient pass which 
should connect the La Fouly huts, in 
the Swiss Val Ferret, with Bourg St. 
Pierre. The desired passage was 
i effected by Mr. F. W. Jacomb in 
! 1864. Irrespective of its value to 
those who, having crossed the Col 
d'Argentiere to La Fouly, wish to 
continue their way towards Zermatt 
without descending to Orsieres, this 
pass is convenient for a traveller 
; going from the valley of the Dranse 
to Courmayeur. 

Mr. Jacomb on leaving Bourg 
I St. Pierre followed the road towards 
the Hospice for J hr., and at the 
1 second bridge (the bridge next above 
the first stone one is the best) turned 
; W.S.W. into the Planards glen, into 
; which a well-marked path leads to 
I the Planards huts. At the head of 
S the glen, keeping somewhat to the 
N. slopes, the Col des Planards 
(2,803 m. , 9,197 ft.) was reached in 
I less than 2 hrs. from Bourg St, 
Pierre. To the E. the Grand 
: Combin, with its attendant peaks, 
i presents a noble picture, while in the 
opposite direction the Grandes Jo- 
| rasses tower grandly above the 
minor aiguilles that flank it and 
conceal Mont Blanc himself. Bear- 
ing slightly to the 1., and passing 
rather above the Ars huts, Mr. 
Jacomb reached the Swiss Ferret 
chalets in less than an hour from the 
Col. The traveller bound for Cour- 
mayeur may thus attain the Col 
Ferret in about the same time as 
from Orsieres. 

The lowest point in the ridge at 
the head of the Planards glen is that 

F F 2 



436 PENNINE ALPS. § 18. GRAND COMBIN DISTRICT 



marked 2,736 m. (8,977 on the 
Siegfried map, and is considerably to 
the S. of the pass just described. But its 
W. side is steep, so that it is less useful 
as a pass than Mr. Jacomb's Col. If 
it be taken it is best, on the W. side, 
to traverse immediately to the 1., 
and nearly at a level, over loose 
stones, and so to pass E. of the 
Grand C locker oTArpalle, and then to 
the r. of the first of the Fenetre 
lakes, beyond which the Col Ferret 
path is joined. From this S. Col the 
Drdnaz, 2,954 m., 9,692 ft. (splen- 
did panorama) may be climbed in 
about an hour. This point, some- 
times called Pointe des Lacerandes, 
or des Monts Telliers, must not be 
confounded with the lower Pic de 
Dronaz (2,949 m -> 95676 ft.), farther 
to the S. and nearer the Hospice. 

2. By the Mourin. — A traveller 
wishing to spend more time on the 
way will do well to ascend S.W. 
from Bourg St. Pierre by the Forgnon 
pastures to the top of the Motirin 
(2,769 m., 9,085 ft.), a very fine 
belvedere. He can then go S. over 
pastures to the Planards glen. But it is 
better to traverse the Col de la Chaud de 
Forgnon (2,626m. , 8,6 1 6 ft. ) on the W. 
to the Combe de La (which descends 
to Liddes, and also, by way of the 
Tour de Bavon, gives access to 
Orsieres), and then from the head of 
that valley to cross by the little- 
known Col des Nevi de la Rossa 
(2,752 m., 9,029 ft.) to the Ars and 
Ferret huts. 



Route D. 

BOURG ST. PIERRE TO AOSTA BY THE 
COL DE VALSOREY. ASCENT OF THE 
MONT v£LAN. 

Just S.E. of Bourg St. Pierre 
there opens a glen, called the Valsorey, 
through which many passes lead in 
different directions. On the N. E. the 



Col des Maisons Blanches (Rte. F) 
gives access to the Corbassiere gl. 
and Fionnay ; on the E. the Col du 
Sonadon (Rte. G) offers a direct 
route to Chanrion, while on the S. 
the Col de Valsorey affords the best 
way to Aosta, particularly as the 
Velan can be included in the day's 
walk, while the night may be spent 
at the By chalets, and the Grand 
Combin ascended thence next day. 

A first glance at the map suggests 
that the Col du Sonadon is the most 
deeply cut depression in the ridge 
between the Grand Combin and the 
Velan. In reality the great spur, of 
which the Velan is the culminating 
point, detaches itself from the main 
ridge at the Amianthe (3,600 m., 
11,812 ft.), just S. of the Col du 
Sonadon, but is separated by a long 
series of rocky peaks from the lowest 
depression in the ridge between the 
Combin and the Velan — the Col de 
Valsorey (3,113 m., 10,214ft.) Two 
glaciers descend from the Velan in a 
N. direction, and are divided by a 
great buttress crowned by the Mont 
de la Gouille (3,223 m., 10,575 ft.) 
That on the W. of this buttress is 
the Tzeudet gl., and that on the 
E. is the Valsorey glacier. It is up 
the latter that one of the routes to 
the Velan leads, as well as the way to 
the Col de Valsorey. This pass has 
been long known to smugglers, who 
frequently cross it, as it offers no real 
difficulties. The first travellers who 
are known to have traversed it are 
Messrs. Adams-Reilly and C. E. 
Mathews, in 1866. 

The path from Bourg St. Pierre 
runs above the r. bank of the 
Valsorey torrent to the Upper Val- 
sorey chalets, 2,192 m., 7,192 ft. 
(if hr. ) Just above these huts a 
projecting rock appears to bar the 
way. The herdsmen have, however, 
cut a track up it, and in this way the 
Grands Flans slopes above are at- 
tained. Opposite, at the N. foot of 
the Mont de la Gouille, there for- 
merly existed a curious glacier lake, 
the Gouille a Vassu, or de Valsorey ; 



ROUTE D. BOURG ST. PIERRE TO AOSTA 



437 



it was described by Saussure 
( Voyages, chapt. xlv. ), but has dis- 
appeared since 1879, owing to the 
shrinking of the glaciers. The way 
towards the Col du Sonadon lies to 
the E. ; but for the Col de Valsorey 
the traveller must bear S.E. and 
gain the moraine on the r. bank 
of the Valsorey gl. (a long hour from 
the huts). A large hole through one 
of the nearer peaks — thence called 
Mont Perce — is very noticeable. The 
lower portion of this glacier is very 
level and is easily traversed. Above, 
there is a steep ice or snow slope, which 
may take some time to cut up. It is 
best to keep on the E. of the steepest 
bit, which, in case of necessity, can 
be turned by easy rocks still further 
E. The pass (3,113 m., 10,214 ft.) 
lies just S.W. of the point called 
Mont Capucin (3,270 m., 10,729 ft.) 
on the Siegfried map, but locally 
the Trots Freres (a far more appro- 
priate name, as it consists of three 
bold rock pinnacles), and may be 
reached in hrs. or less from Bourg 
St. Pierre. The three rock pinnacles 
of Mont Capucin assume very fan- 
tastic shapes, and the Combin, oppo- 
site, is extremely grand, while the 
traveller is surprised to see the city 
of Aosta through the Ollomont gorge, 
backed by the Cogne peaks. 

[If it is wished to climb the Velan 
on the way over the Col, it is best to 
skirt round the N. W. base of the minor 
summits S.W. of the pass to the 
snow slopes above the upper icefall 
of the Valsorey gl., or the knap- 
sacks may be left at the foot of the 
steep snow slope encountered in 
mounting direct to the Col. J 

The descent on the Italian side is 
very easy. Broken rocks, followed 
by snow or stone slopes (according to 
the season), lead down in \ h. or so 
to the pastures at the head of the 
Val d'Ollomont. The chalets of By, 
on the S.E. (see below), are gained 
in a long hour from the Col, and 
thence a mule path leads down to 
Ollomont in 1 hr., and the village of 
Valpelline (§19. Rte. E) inf hr. more. 



A char road goes down hence in 8 
miles to Aosta (§15. Rte. A). 

The chalets of By (2,043 m -> 
6,703 ft.), alluded to above, are finely 
situated on the wide pastures at the 
head of the Val d'Ollomont. The 
owner of the huts is very obliging, 
and does his best to entertain visitors, 
but it is to be hoped that a small inn 
will be built there some day. Hence 
almost all the peaks in the long, 
jagged ridge N.E. of the Velan may 
be climbed in from 4 to 5 hrs. The 
Amianthe (3,600 m., 11,812 ft.) is 
the highest, and is quite easy, while 
all command fine views. The Grand 
Combin can be ascended hence in 
7 hrs. by crossing the W. Col de By, 
3,300 m., 10,827 ft. (E. of the 
Amianthe), to the head of the Mont 
Durand glacier, and thence climbing 
the great S.E. ridge (Rte. F), while 
i the Velan can be attained in 5 hrs. 
by its S.E. face (see below). Chan- 
rion may be gained in 4 hrs. or so by 
the Col de Fenetre (Rte. E), and 
either the Mont Avril or the Mont 
Gele (Rte. H) may be ascended en 
route. If the traveller be bound to 
the upper part of the Valpelline he 
may join the Col de Crete Seche 
route by crossing the broad snow 
saddle S.E. of Mont Gele. 

Ascent of the Mont Velan. — The 
Mont Velan (3,765 m., 12,353 f t-) 
rises on a great spur, running S.W. 
from the Grand Combin towards the 
Great St. Bernard Pass, and, as its 
highest rocks (though not the culminat- 
ing snowy dome) are visible from the 
Hospice, it is not a matter for surprise 
that the first ascent was made thence 
as far back as 1779 by Monsieur 
J. L. Murith, a famous botanist, and 
then a Canon of the Hospice. It was 
thus the fourth snowy peak in the 
Alps to be scaled by man, the Roche- 
melon in 1358, the Titlis in 1739 (or 
1744), and the Buet in 1770 alone 
taking rank of it. There are three 
main routes up it, so that it can be 
taken from Bourg St. Pierre by one 
route, and that village regained by a 
I second, or it can be traversed on the 



438 PENNINE ALPS. § 18. GRAND COMBIN DISTRICT 



way from the same place to Aosta, a 
splendid excursion. 

(a) From the W. — Seen from the 
N. and W. the V elan is a snowy dome, 
nearly flat at the top, but steep on the 
W. side, where it is ribbed by pro- 
jecting edges of sharp rock, that seam 
the neve-clad side of the mountain. 
It is by these that the ascent is made 
from Bourg St. Pierre, the best start- 
ing place, as it is quite unnecessary to 
sleep at the Cantine de Proz, while 
an early start from the Hospice is not 
easy. The St. Bernard road (Rte. 
A) is followed for I hr. to the Can- 
tine de Proz, and then a path up grass 
slopes leads in a S.E. direction to a 
great stony waste on the bank of the 
stream descending from the Proz gl. 
That gl. is reached in about 2 hrs. 
from the Cantine, and crossed without 
difficulty to its head in f hr. more. 
A bergschrund may give trouble, but 
the ascent beyond by one of the rocky 
ribs offers no difficulty (if preferred 
the easy rocks of the W. arete itself 
may be followed). In this way the 
rim of the upper rocks (where is the 
cairn) is attained in 2 hrs. or less, and 
\ hr. more suffices to reach the loftiest 
snow dome, in all 6 hrs. from 
Bourg St. Pierre. The view is one 
of the very finest in the whole chain 
of the Alps, though the mountain is 
overtopped by the Grand Combin, 
which towers up superbly on the 
other side of the Valsorey. It includes, 
of course, the range of Mont Blanc 
(with a bit of the Lake of Geneva 
seen unexpectedly in the distance), as 
well as the Bernese Alps and the 
Graians. The Grande Casse, in the 
Tarentaise, and the Grandes Rousses, 
in Dauphine, are the most distant 
points seen towards the S., while to 
the E. Monte Rosa asserts its 
supremacy. 

{b) By the Valsorey Glacier. — This 
route is often chosen as the return way 
to Bourg ^t. Pierre, or as the line of 
ascent O for a party desiring to cross 
over to Aosta. The route from the 
village is the same as that to the Col 
de Valsorey (see above) as far as the 



level lower portion of that gl. Here it 
is necessary to bear to the S.W., so as 
to ascend moraine and rock slopes on 
the left bank of the glacier, which are 
somewhat exposed to stones falling 
from the Mont de la Gouille. The 
glacier is regained above the great 
icefall (which is thus turned), and is 
then crossed to its E. edge, up which 
snow slopes, seamed by several great 
crevasses, lead direct to the highest 
! snowy dome (6 hrs. from Bourg St. 
I Pierre up, 3^-4 hrs. down). As 
! noted above, the ascent can be made 
I from the Col de Valsorey itself by 
' skirting along the N.W. base of 
several minor rocky summits on the 
ridge, and this is the most convenient 
course for a party bound for Aosta 
and carrying heavy knapsacks with 

j it. 

(c) By the Italia7i Side. — It is pos- 
j sible to descend from the summit 
by a small gully on the left of a 
! very broad couloir in the rocky S.W. 
face of the mountain to the Menouve 
glen, and so reach Etroubles, on the 
St. Bernard road. Or a party may 
descend the S.E. rocky face from the 
Col des Chamois, a gap on the N.E. 
arete of the peak, higher up than the 
Col de Valsorey. But the route first 
taken by Sir Martin Conway's party 
in 1890 is probably the best way to 
Aosta. The S.E. arete is descended 
for \ hr. , and then the rocks on one or 
other bank of the central one of three 
great couloirs in the S.E. face are 
followed to the grass at the foot of the 
peak (2 hrs.) In an hr. more the 
Col de Valsorey route is rejoined at 
the Cordon huts. By this route the 
Velan may be climbed in 5 hrs. from 
the chalets of By, described above. 

In 1897 the Velan was attained 
by a difficult rock climb up the N. 
arete and over the Aiguille du Velan 
(8J hrs. from Bourg. St. Pierre). 



ROUTE E. MARTIGNY TO AO ST A 



439 



Route E. 

MARTIGNY TO AOSTA BY THE VAL DE 
BAGNES AND THE COL DE FENETRE. 

Char road to Fionnay and from Val- 
pelline ; mule path from Fionnay to 
Valpelline. n hrs.' walking from 
Chable to Valpelline. 

The two main branches of the 
Dranse flow through two nearly 
parallel valleys — the Val d'Entremont 
and the Val de Bagnes — and unite 
their waters close to Sembrancher. 
Each is connected with the valley of 
Aosta by a pass which, in summer at 
least, is quite free from difficulty. But 
the destiny of the two valleys has 
been widely different. The first has 
from very early times been one of 
the main channels of communication 
across the Alps, and is traversed an- 
nually by many thousands of persons ; 
while the second, known indeed to 
the natives for several centuries, be- 
came known to others than its inhabit- 
ants by the destructive inundation 
which early in this century issued 
from its narrow mouth to carry de- 
struction even beyond Martigny, and 
rather later by the travels of Principal 
Forbes, Herren G. Studer and M. 
Ulrich, and Mr. W. Mathews. The 
Col de Fenetre itself has long been 
known, for in 1476 an army crossed it, 
in 1536 Calvin is said to have fled 
across it from Aosta, and in 1688- 1690 
it was fortified to prevent the Vaudois 
refugees from returning to their native 
valleys. It is also called Fenetre de 
Balme and Fenetre de Durand. The 
very rare Crepis jubata was first 
discovered at the end of the Val de 
Bagnes. 

For many years the accommodation 
in the valley of Bagnes was not of a 
kind to attract strangers. Recently, 
however, considerable improvements 
have been made in this respect. 
There are good inns now at Chable 
and at Fionnay, both of which are 
largely frequented by Swiss families 
in summer, so that it is not always 
easy to be sure of finding rooms. 
There is a fair inn at Mauvoisin, 



and an excellent Club hut at Chan- 
rion, at the extreme head of the 
valley. Complaints have, however, 
been made that this Club hut is fre- 
quently occupied by Swiss visitors, 
who remain there for several days, 
but do not undertake or intend to 
undertake any mountain expeditions 
from it. It is to be hoped, therefore, 
that it may soon give place to a small 
mountain inn. 

The valley was under the rule of 
the Abbats of St. Maurice till the 
conquest of the Lower Vallais by 
the Upper Vallais in 1475, tne bridge 
below Mauvoisin (sometimes called 
Pont de Quart) marking the limit 
between their jurisdiction and that of 
the lordship of Quart, in the valley of 
Aosta. In former times the valley 
was celebrated for its mineral springs 
and baths, from which it still takes 
its name (Bagnes, Balnese, Banese). 

From Martigny the Great St. Ber- 
nard road (Rte. A) is followed for 9 m. 
as far as Sembrancher. Our route 
crosses the Dranse a little below the 
junction of its two branches, and then 
proceeds for m„ along the r. bank 
of the Dranse de Bagnes to 

Chable (824 m., 2,703 ft.), the chief 
village of the valley, and therefore (in 
accordance with a common practice) 
also called £ Bagnes. ' It is pictures- 
quely situated astride of the stream, 
and in the neighbourhood of some 
interesting scenery. The Ruinette, 
Mont Pleureur, and Grand Tave are 
visible from the village. 

[The summit of the Pierre a Voir^ 
2,476 m., 8,124 ft. (§ 21. Rte. A), is 
easily reached in 4 J hrs. , and on the op- 
posite side the traveller may descend 
by a mule path or on a sledge — very fast 
— to Saxon, in the Rhone valley. A 
path leads from Chable in 6 hrs. by the 
Col des F tab Ions (2,182 m., 7,159 ft. ) 
to Riddes, in the Rhdne valley. The 
way lies past the village of Verbzer, 
whence the course of a stream is fol- 
lowed very nearly to the pass, which 
is E. of the Pierre a Voir. On the N. 
side the descent lies at first over 
grassy slopes, then through a zone of 



440 PENNINE ALPS. § rS. GRAttD COMBIN DISTRICT 



rhododendron and pine woods. After 
passing over a tract of sloping pas- 
tures a steeper declivity leads by zig- 
zags down to Riddes. Large surfaces 
of rock at a great height above the 
valley are seen, which were polished 
and striated by the gigantic glacier 
which once extended from the Furka 
at least as far as' the Lake of Geneva.] 

The road crosses the Dranse by a 
fine stone bridge, and passes over a 
smiling plain to the hamlet of Cha??ip- 
sec (J hr. ), where it recrosses the 
Dranse and winds up the hill-side 
to the dirty village of Lourtier, 
1,054 m., 3,458 ft. (| hr. ) (Hence 
the Col de V Azet leads to Liddes, and 
the Col de la Chatix to the Nendaz 
glen, and so to S ion. ) Above Lourtier 
the new road mounts by a series of 
short zigzags on the \ r. bank, while 
the Dranse, charged with the drainage 
of ten extensive glaciers, forces' its 
way through a very narrow gorge. The 
scenery is wild and picturesque, 
especially the little basin in which are 
the huts called Granges Neuves, 
where the considerable stream from 
the Corbassiere glacier joins the 
Dranse. A short way beyond another 
green basin is reached, and a bridge 
is crossed to Fionnay (1,497 m., 
4,912 ft.), now a favourite resort of 
travellers, as it possesses good inns, 
and is very beautifully situated amidst 
fine woods. It is reached in 1 J hr. 's 
walking from Lourtier, or -2f hrs. 
from Chable. 

[Hence many pleasant excursions 
may be made. On the S. YY. side 
of the valley the Panossiere Club hut 
(for the Cofnbin, &c, Rte. F) is 
4 hrs. distant, and should be visited 
in order tb see'the very fine Corbas- 
siere gl;, which is also overlooked 
from the Bee de Serey, 2,867 m -> 
9,407 ft. (4 hrs.), on its 1. bank. On 
the N.E. side the ascent of the Pointe 
' de Rosa Blanche (3,348 m. , 10,985 ft. ) 
is particularly recommended ; it is 
best reached in 4J hrs. by way of the 
Col de Cleuson, and the return may 
be made by the Col de Sevreu. It 
commands a fine view, as does also 



the slightly lower Mont Fort ( 3, 330 m. , 
10,926 ft.), accessible in 4-5 hrs. by 
way of the Col du Mont Fort, on its 
S.W. shoulder. Many passes in 
various directions can be taken from 
Fionnay, apart from those lying over 
or near the Corbassiere gl., for 
which see Rte. F. The Col du Mont 
Fort (3,037 m., .9,964 ft.) leads over 
to the Tortin huts, the 'Col de Louvte 
(2,938 m., 9,639 ft.) and the Col de 
Cleuson (2,916 m. , 9,^6.7 ft.) to those 
of Cleuson ; all these huts are in the 
Nendaz glen, and may be gained in 
from 4 to 5 hrs. from Fionnay, the 
descent to Sion by that glen taking 
about 4 hrs. more. The Col de Sevreu 
(e. 3,150m., 10,335 ft.) and the Col du 
Cret (3,148 m., 10,329 ft.) afford 
access, by way of the Ecoulaies gl. , 
to the La Banna huts, near the head 
of the Val d'Heremence, which joins 
the Val d'Herens (see Rte. L), 
5J-6 hrs. sufficing for the journey 
from Fionnay. The Col de Vasevay 
(3,263 m. , 10,706 ft.), which -is more 
conveniently taken from Mauvoisin, 
leads in 6 hrs. to the Liappey huts, 
higher up the Heremence glen. J 

Beyond Fionnay the scenery be- 
comes wilder and wilder, the precipices 
of the Mont Pleureur towering on the 
1. above the traveller. The path 
keeps always on the r. bank of 
the' torrent, past the Ponatchesse huts, 
-and does not cross it till the solid 
stone bridge of ^Mauvoisin (1,698 m. , 
5,571 ft.) leads across a deep cleft. 
Zigzags then lead up to the Mauvoisin 
inn (1,824 m., 5,984 ft.), perched on 
a hillock or spur, and seen from Bo- 
natchesse, while there is r a little chapel 
just beyond. It is 1 \ hr. 's walking from 
Fionnay, and was formerly the best 
headquarters in the upper part of the 
valley, but has been largely superseded 
by the inns at Fionnay and the Club 
hut at Chanrion. It has too the 
disadvantage that for nearly all excur- 
sions it is necessary to descend from 
the hillock on which it stands, so 
that a steep ascent has to be made on 
the return home. 

[The chief climb from here is the 



ROUTE E. MARTIGNY TO AOSTA 



441 



ascent of the Mont Pleureur (5,706 m. , 
12,159 ft. ), opposite the inn. The Col 
de Seilon route (Rte. K) is followed to 
the Col de Gietroz, 3 hrs. That gl. is 
then crossed in a N.W. direction, and 
the S. face traversed by slopes of 
shale and snow to the S.W. arete, by 
which the ascent is completed in 
2 hrs. from the Col. The view is 
very fine. The return may be varied 
by keeping along the slopes at the E. 
base of the rocky ridge of La Salle 
(3,641 m., 11,946ft.), and then de- 
scending a steep ice wall to the Col de 
Vasevay, 2 hrs. , whence it is 2 hrs. 
more to the inn. A short excursion 
is the ascent of the Grand Tave 
(3,154 m., 10,348 ft.), overlooking 
the Corbassiere gl. This may be 
made on the way from the inn to the 
Panossiere Club hut. A rough foot 
path leads to the 1. up the hill-side 
from the inn to the upper Botzeresse 
hut. Here it is necessary to bear r. 
round a spur of the peak if bound for 
the Coldes Otanes, or, before attaining 
the hut, to keep /. to the Botzeresse 
gl. , at the head of which is the Col de 
Botzeresse. 3 or 4 hrs. suffice from the 
inn to the Club hut. The peak may 
be gained from either pass — best from 
the former — in \ hr. , or direct by a 
snowy gully in the rocky E. face—in 
all 3-4 hrs. from the inn. The Mont 
Blanc de Seilon (.3,871 m., 12,700 ft.) 
may be climbed in 6 hrs. by way of 
the Col de Seilon (Rte. K) and the 
Ruinette (3,87.9 m., 12,727 ft.) in 
about the same time, by way of the 
Gietroz alp and the Lyrerose gl. , 
but the latter ascent is better made 
from Chanrion, Rte. H.J 

Through a narrow channel on the 
S. side of Mont Pleureur is seen the 
lower portion of the Gietroz glacier, 
fed by the overflow from a vast field 
of neve that is not visible from below. 
This glacier has obtained a sad cele- 
brity from the formidable catastrophes 
of which it has been the cause, as 
masses of ice break off and fall down 
a steep rock wall, at the base of 
which they form a ' glacier remanie,' 
which blocks the narrow valley. In 



1595 it descended into the valley, and 
formed a barrier, behind which the 
waters of the Dranse torrent accumu- 
lated until they burst, on June 4, and 
swept through the valley below, carry- 
ing off over 140 human beings, besides 
many cattle and houses. In the spring 
of 1 8 18 the glacier again choked the 
valley in a similar fashion, forming a 
dam nearly 300 ft. high, behind which 
the waters of the Dranse soon formed 
a lake nearly \\ mile in length and 
very deep. A renewal of the former 
calamity seemed inevitable, when an 
eminent engineer, HerrVenetz, under- 
took to avert it by driving a tunnel 
through the ice barrier. History re- 
cords no nobler example of courage 
and endurance than that of the brave 
men who for thirty-four days worked 
day and night, in momentary peril of 
destruction, until the work was com- 
pleted, just as the waters of the lake 
had reached the level of the tunnel. 
The flow of water rapidly enlarged 
and lowered the opening, and in less 
than three days two-fifths of the water 
had safely run off, by means of the 
tunnel, through the customary channel 
of the river. In the meantime, how- 
ever, the dam had been weakened by 
the excavating action of the current, 
and on June 16 it suddenly gave 
way. In \ hour a quantity of water, 
five times greater than that of the 
Rhine at Bale, where it carries down 
the drainage of nearly the whole of 
the Swiss Alps, rushed through the 
breach and down the narrow valley. 
An eye-witness, who viewed the scene 
near Sembrancher, assured the writer 
(J. B. ) that the appearance of the flood 
was that of a huge dark mass of trees, 
filling the width of the valley and 
advancing with almost the speed of a 
railway train, at first exceeding 25 
miles an hour. After reaching the 
main valley at Sembrancher the fury 
of the flood was partially arrested, 
but it continued to spread destruction 
far and wide, and to bear down its 
burden of huge blocks of stone, trees, 
cattle, houses, and debris to the 
valley of the Rhone many miles below 



442 PENNINE ALPS. § 18. GRAND COMBIN DISTRICT 



Martigny. After repeated warnings 
most of the inhabitants had repaired 
to places of safety, but 34 were 
carried away, along with 400 houses, 
all the bridges over the Dranse, 
and large numbers of cattle. More 
permanent mischief was done by the 
masses of stone and gravel that still 
lie over most of the fields in the 
lower level of the valley, even below 
Martigny. The impending danger of 
a renewal of the same catastrophe has 
since 18 18 been averted by a simple 
and ingenious device, originated by 
Herr Venetz. A stream of water, at 
a temperature even but little above 
the freezing point, acts as a saw, 
which rapidly cuts through glacier 
ice. Hence by conducting the streams 
from the mountains on either side in 
wooden troughs the accumulated 
masses of ice and frozen snow are 
cut up into huge blocks, which fall 
into the Dranse, and are soon carried 
away and melted by the current. 
Men were later often employed in 
summer to conduct this operation, 
but the glacier has now much shrunk, 
and but a small talus, formed by the 
ice avalanches from the snout of the 
glacier, 2,000 ft. above, marks the 
site of the catastrophe of 18 18. On 
June 28, 1894, there was another 
great inundation — the most terrible 
since 18 18 — in the valley, which 
carried away 17 bridges, and nearly 
broke through the dykes at Martigny. 
It rushed down in 5 hours from 
Chermontane to Martigny, but no 
houses were ruined, nor was there 
any loss of life of man or beast. It 
originated in a small lake formed 
at the foot of the Crete Seche gl. 
(Rte. H), near its junction with the 
Otemma gl. The high moraine on 
the 1. bank of the latter gl., and 
the ice stream itself, blocked the 
waters which generally flowed out 
through subglacial channels, then 
choked also. The dammed up 
waters succeeded at last in finding 
an issue through a crevasse, and 
rapidly enlarging this aperture, 
dashed down into the valley. 



The path, after descending from 
the Mauvoisin hillock and passing 
opposite the waterfall from the 
Gietroz gl. , keeps along the /. 
bank of the Dranse till opposite the 
moraine of the Breneygl. (Rte. I), the 
glacier itself having greatly shrunk. 
Several minor glaciers on either side 
of the valley are not seen from the 
path along its bed, but a glimpse is 
gained of the fine icefield of Zessetta, 
descending from a hollow N. of 
the Tour de Boussine (3,837 m., 
12,589 ft.), a great buttress of the 
Grand Combin, here rising above the 
valley in formidable precipices of 
black rock. At one time the Mont 
Durand gl. formed a permanent ice 
bridge across the Dranse and the 
path to Chermontane used to cross 
the lower end of that gl. Later, 
it was found more convenient to 
cross to the r. bank 10 minutes below 
Lancey, and soon after, near a 
shepherd's hut (above the ruins of 
the inn), to take the r.-hand path 
(that to the 1. leading to the Chanrion 
Club hut), which, after running on a 
level high above the stream, descended 
to and recrossed it, then mounting to 
Chermontane, beyond the snout of 
the Mont Durand gl. The traveller 
thus reaches the considerable esta- 
blishment — cheese and butter — at the 
Grande Chermontane huts •, 2,230 m., 
7,317 ft. (2J hrs. from Mauvoisin.) 
They are only occupied for about 
six weeks in July and August, but 
travellers do not now need (as 
formerly) to seek shelter here, as the 
new Club hut at Chanrion is just 
opposite and only | hr. distant by a 
path mounting to the r. from the 
bridge over the Dranse (Rte H). 

The ascent from Chermontane to 
the Col de Fenetre formerly lay in part 
over the glacier of the same name ; 
but the ice has retired, and now a 
well-marked mule path traverses the 
stony slopes on the W. of the glacier 
to the shelter hut on the pass, gained 
in 1^- hr. from Chermontane. 

[It may be useful to note that a party 
coming direct from the Otemma gl. 



ROUTE E. MARTIGNY TO AOSTA 



443 



should traverse by moraine from the 

I. bank of that gl. to the moraine on 
the r. bank of the Fenetre gl. , thus 
rounding the N. base of the Pointe 
d'Aias ; the Fenetre gl. is then crossed 
to the mule path or mounted direct 
to the pass. These two glaciers, 
though now distant from each other, 
joined their frozen streams when 
Principal Forbes passed here in 1842.3 

The view from the Col de Fenetre 
(2,786 m., 9,141 ft. ) is extremely fine, 
especially on the Italian side, as it 
commands many summits in the 
Graians from Mont Emilius to the 
Rutor. Immediately below lies the 
deep glen of Ollomont, which is en- 
closed on the E. by a rugged ridge, 
forming a magnificent rock wall, 
whose highest summits are named 
Monts Faudery, Morion, and Clapier, 
while on the W. it is bounded by the 
Mont Velan and the long line of 
rocky peaks extending thence in the 
direction of the Col du Sonadon. 

[From the pass the Mont Avril 
(3,341 m., 10,962 ft.), on the N.W. , 
can be ascended in \\ hr. over 
loose, shattered slaty rock. It com- 
mands a magnificent view, particularly 
of the Grand Combin and the Mont 
Gele, which rise grandly nearly 
opposite. J 

On the descent the mule path skirts 
the E. slopes of the Mont Avril, and 
after passing a small lake descends by 
zigzags to the Fenetre huts, 2,427 m. , 
7,963 ft. (| hr.) 

[Hence the Mont Gele (3,517 m., 

II, 539 ft.) may be ascended in 2J-3 
hrs. , by mounting to the N. E. through 
a rocky gorge and up rough slopes of 
stones to the considerable Balme gl. 
(called Faudery gl. on the Italian 
map), which flows down the S.W. 
slope of the mountain. This is as- 
cended to the base of the last peak, 
and a steeper ice or snow slope then 
leads up to the central and highest 
point of the rocky crest that forms the 
summit ridge of the peak. The view 
up the great Otemma gl. is a striking 
feature in the extensive view. J 

In \ hr. more, passing several other 



lakes, the traveller gains the Balme 
huts, which lie \ hr. S.E. of the 
By chalets, the many ascents from 
which were described in Rte. D, 
above. Thence the mule path de- 
i scends to Ollomont (where there are 
! remains of a Roman aqueduct) in 
1 hr. , and in J hr. more the village of 
Valpelline is reached. Hence a char 
; road descends in 8 miles to Aosta 
I (§15. Rte. A, and § 19. Rte. E). 



Route F. 

FIONNAY TO BOURG ST. PIERRE BY 
THE COL DES MAISONS BLANCHES. 
ASCENT OF THE GRAND COMBIN. 

The Grand Combin (4,317 m., 
14,164 ft.), which yields in height to 
no mountain in the Alps save Mont 
Blanc and Monte Rosa, with the great 
peaks that cluster round them, was 
long one of the least known of Alpine 
summits, and it was not till the con- 
struction, very recently, of a Club 
hut by the Swiss Alpine Club on 
the r. bank of the Corbassiere gl, 
that that great ice stream could be 
explored with any approach to com- 
fort. This huge glacier flows down 
from the highest ridge of the Combin 
in a N. direction towards the middle 
reach of the Val de Bagnes. On the 
E. it is separated from the upper por- 
tion of that valley by a long ridge, in 
which the most conspicuous summits 
are the Tournelou Blanc (3,712 m. . 
12,179 ft-) an d the Grand Tave 
(3,154 m., 10,348 ft.), while it is 
traversed by the Cols des Otanes and 
de Botzeresse. On the W. it is 
bounded by an even loftier range, 
the culminating points in which are 
the Combin de Corbassiere (3,722 m. , 
12,212 ft.) and the Aiguille des 
Maisons Blanches (3,699 m., 
12,136 ft.) ; over it lead the Col des 
Avolions (which, combined with the 
Col de l'Azet, gives access to Liddes) 



444 PENNINE ALPS. § 18. GRAND COMBIN DISTRICT 



and the Col de Panosseyre, by which 
Bourg St. Pierre is attained. At the 
extreme S.W. corner of the Corbas- 
siere gl., and close under the main 
mass of the Grand Combin itself, 
is the gap known as the Col des 
Maisons Blanches (3,426 m., 
11,241 ft.), by way of which the 
ascent of that peak is commonly made 
by a party starting from the poor 
shelter hut (built by the guides, the 
Baileys) at its W. foot ; thus the peak 
may be taken on the way from the 
Val de Bagnes to Bourg St. Pierre, 
or vice versa. 

The Grand Combin itself rises at 
the S. end of the Corbassiere glacier, 
and consists of a huge snowy mass, 
not remarkably steep on the N. side, 
but very steep on the S. side towards 
the Col du Sonadon. The culminat- 
ing snowy crest is crowned by two 
horns, or humps, close together, and 
is known as the Aigzulle du Croissant 
(4,317 m., 14,164 ft.), though it is 
said that at Bourg St. Pierre it is 
called the GrafTeneire. A short dis- 
tance (15-20 min. ) off to the N.E. is 
the second peak (about 4,300 m., 
14,108 ft.), and known as the Graf- 
feneire^ save at Bourg St. Pierre, 
where it is called Aiguille du Crois- 
sant, though this name clearly refers 
to the crescent-shaped highest summit. 
To the W. of the true Aiguille du 
Croissant rises the Combin de Val- 
sorey (4,145 m., 13,600 ft.), while to 
the N.E. of the true GrafTeneire 
stands the Combin de Zessetta, about 
4,120 m., 13,518 ft. (immediately 
S.E. of the figures 4,080 m. on the 
Siegfried map). There are, there- 
fore, two obvious routes from the 
Corbassiere gl. to the highest sum- 
mit (as the direct climb from the 
N. has not yet been effected), viz. 
from the Col des Maisons Blanches 
by the W. arete over the Combin de 
Valsorey, and from the depression 
S.W. of the Combin de Zessetta by 
the N.E. arite over the GrafTeneire. 
A third route (that naturally taken 
by a party coming from the By 
chalets) leads from the Mont 



Durand glacier straight to the 
Aiguille du Croissant by its great S. E. 
ridge. A point a little W. of the 
Combin de Valsorey has also been 
reached by various routes from the 
S., whether from the Meiten or the 
upper Sonadon glaciers (see Rte. G) ; 
but such variations need not be further 
alluded to in these pages, as they are 
rarely taken, and are fully described 
in the 4 Climbers' Guide to the Central 
Pennine Alps. 5 

The exploration of the Combin 
group was begun by Herr Gottlieb 
Studer, first here, as in many other 
parts of the Alps, who in 1 85 1 at- 
tained the Combin de Corbassiere, 
and was followed in that ascent by 
Messrs. W. and C. E. Mathews, in 
1856. In July 1857 three natives of 
the Val de Bagnes, Benjamin and 
Maurice Felley and Jouvence Bruchez, 
made the first ascent of the GrafTeneire 
(4,300 m., 14,108 ft.), and a month 
later M. Felley and Bruchez guided 
Mr. W. Mathews, with Auguste 
Simond, to the same spot. In 1858 
four men from the Val d'Entremont, 
Daniel and Emmanuel Bailey and 
Seraphin and Auguste Dorsaz, crossed 
the Col des Maisons Blanches, and 
then climbed the GrafTeneire by the 
same route as their predecessors. In 
all these expeditions it is singular and 
remarkable that the second highest 
summit alone was reached, and the 
excuse of insufficient time seems 
scarcely a valid one. However in i860 
Emmanuel and Gaspard Bailey led a 
Swiss traveller, M. Deville, over 
the Col des Maisons Blanches and up 
the actual highest point of the moun- 
tain, and a few days later the same 
guides took Mr. W. E. Utterson- 
Kelso up the same peak, these being 
the first two ascents of the loftiest 
point of the Grand Combin. All 
these routes were made by way of 
the ' Corridor,' to the S.W. of the 
Combin de Zessetta (Route a. below). 
In 1872 M. Isler, with Gillioz, first 
reached the Combin de Valsorey, 
gaining its W. ridge from the S., 
while in 1874 Mr. H. White and the 



ROUTE F. FIONNAY TO BOURG ST. PIERRE 445 



Rev. E. W. Bowling, with H. 
Devouassoud, Daniel Bailey, and M. 
Balmat, traversed the whole W. 
arete from the Col des Maisons 
Blanches to the highest summit. It 
was only in 1 891 that the long- 
desired route by the S.E. arete from 
the Mont Durand glacier was suc- 
cessfully made by Mr. O. G. Jones, 
with Antoine Bovier and P. Gaspoz, 
while the Combin de Zessetta seems 
to have remained untouched till it 
was visited in 1 894 by Messrs. 
E. F. M. Benecke and H. A. Cohen 
alone. The very intricate history of 
the early exploration of the Combin 
group, and of the still more compli- 
cated questions of nomenclature, will 
be found in Herr Studer's articles in 
the two series of ' Berg- und 
Gletscherfahrten, ' and in Mr. W. 
Mathews' paper in the first series of 
* Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers,' both 
summarised in Herr Studer's ' Ueber 
Eis und Schnee. ' Any one interested 
in the subject should not fail to con- 
sult as well Dr. Diener's admirable 
monograph on the Combin in vol. xx. 
(1889) of the ' Zeitschrift ' of the 
German and Austrian Alpine Club. 

The Panossiere Club hut (2,715 
m., 8,908 ft.) affords comfortable 
night quarters for those under- 
taking the ascent of the Grand 
Combin, or even the passage of the 
Col des Maisons Blanches. It lies 
on the r. bank of the Corbassiere 
gl., at the S.W. foot of the Grand 
Tave, and may be gained from 
Fionnay in 4 hrs. by a path to the 
Corbassiere chalets, and then along 
the double moraine on the r. bank 
of the Corbassiere gl. itself. If 
coming from Mauvoisin the traveller 
must cross the Col des Otanes 
(2,840 m., 9,318 ft.), or the rather 
harder Col de Botzeresse, the former 
lying N. and the latter S. of the fine 
view-point of the Grand Tave 
(3,154 m., 10,348 ft.), accessible 
from either in \ hr. J hr. below 
the pass selected is the hut, 3-4 hrs. 
from Mauvoisin. (The Col des 
Pauvres lies more to the N. than the 



passes just mentioned, and leads from 
the Bonatchesse huts, in the Val de 
Bagnes, direct in 2\ hrs. to those of 
Corbassiere. ) 

[The Combin de Corbassiere 
(3,722 m. , 12,212 ft.) can be very 
easily ascended from the Club hut in 
3 hrs. or so by its S. or E. face, its 
S.E. arete, or its snowy W. ridge. 
It is, perhaps, the best point from 
which to study the magnificent 
Corbassiere gl. and the peaks that 
surround it. The view extends from 
the peaks above Grindelwald to those 
overhanging the Mont Cenis Pass. 
It is worth while to go on, in a good 
half-hour, to the Petit Combin 
(locally called Les Follats or Foulaz), 
3,671 m., 12,044 ft., as thence the 
beautiful Lac de Champex is seen in 
the distance, though the view of the 
Combin itself is not quite so fine as 
from the higher summit. On regain- 
ing the surface of the Corbassiere 
gl., the traveller may reach Bourg 
St. Pierre by either the Col de 
Panosseyre or the Col des Maisons 
Blanches (which involves a rather 
longer traverse), so that these peaks 
can well be taken on the way from 
Fionnay to Bourg St. Pierre. 
Another interesting climb is that of 
the Tournelon Blanc (3,712 m., 
12,179 ft-)> b y wa y of the Mulets de 
la Liaz in 4 hrs. J 

From the Club hut it is best to 
cross the gl. to its W. side, so as to 
avoid some seracs, but above them 
it is plain sailing, and the Col des 
Maisons Blanches (3,426 m., 
11,241 ft.) is gained in 2^-3 hrs. 
from the hut, according to the state 
of the snow. 

On the descent it is best to go down 
a gully and rotten rocks to the N. of 
the upper bit of the steep little gl. de- 
scending directly from the pass. Snow 
slopes and stones lead in a N.W. 
direction to the shelter hut (2,780 m., 
9,121 ft.) on the Grande Penna slope 
(1 \ hr. from the Col), built to re- 
place the S. A. C. hut, erected in 
1889 near the Col, but destroyed by an 
avalanche the next spring. Thence 



446 PENNINE ALPS. § 18. GRAND COMBIN DISTRICT 



it is necessary to descend over 
moraine to a small lake, whence a 
rough track on the 1. bank of a 
stream leads down to the path in 
the Valsorey, I hr. from Bourg St. 
Pierre. This village is reached in 
2^-3 hrs. from the pass, or about 
5-6 hrs. from the Club hut. If time 
be an object it is best to cross 
from the Corbassiere gl. by the gap 
just N. of the Moine, 3,574 m., 
11,726 ft. (easily recognised on both 
sides by the straight line of its N. 
arete), whence an easy snow couloir 
leads straight down to the shelter hut. 
1 hr. is thus saved. 

Ascent of the Grand Combin. — Few 
travellers probably cross the Col 
without ascending, or intending to 
ascend, the Grand Combin, so that 
this climb may be most conveniently 
described in connection with the pass. 
As indicated above, there are three 
main routes by which the summit may 
be gained. 

(a) By the ' Corridor* — This is 
the usual route taken by those who 
start from the Panossiere hut, but may 
be followed by a party coming over 
the Col des Maisons Blanches, if 
they round the N. base of the peak. 
The ' Corridor ' is a sort of shelf or 
hollow N. E. of the great rocky but- 
tress running N.W. from the Graffe- 
neire. The base of the ascent (about 
where the figures 3,600 stand on the 
Siegfried map) may be gained in about 
-J hour from the Col des Maisons 
Blanches, or in 2 hrs. from the Panos- 
siere hut. Snow slopes then lead up 
in a S.E. direction on the N.E. side 
of the aforesaid rocky buttress, and 
gradually narrow into a shelf, which 
is seamed with crevasses, and sepa- 
rates that buttress (from which masses 
of ice often fall) from a lower range 
of seracs. This is the dangerous bit 
of the ascent, but it is quite short (5 
m. down), and safe, save late in the 
day. Above, the snow slopes broaden 
out again, and the N.E. arete of the 
peak is reached at its lowest point, in 
1-2 hrs. from the base. Hence a 
steep slope, generally ice, leads up to 



the S.W.j but beyond easy snow gives 
access to the Graffeneire, 4,300 m., 
14,108 ft. (1 hr.) A short descent 
and a short reascent over extremely 
easy snow slopes bring the traveller 
to the double summit of the Aiguille 
du Croissant {\ hr. ), which can thus be 
attained under favourable circum- 
stances in 2J-3 hrs. from the base, but 
everything depends on the condition 
of the snow. The view is, of course, 
very extensive, but fails to leave such 
an impression on the spectator's mind 
as that from the lower, but better 
placed, Velan. 

(b) By the W. Arite.—TYAs is ideally 
the best route for a party coming from 
Bourg St. Pierre, and is particularly 
recommended when the snow on the 
ordinary route {a. above) is likely to 
be in bad condition. The rocks offer 
no real difficulties, even when covered 
with fresh snow, but the ridge is much 
exposed to wind. 

Starting from the Col des Maisons 
Blanches, an easy ascent up a small 
side glacier leads to the W. ridge at 
the snow hump marked 3,631 m. 
( 1 1 , 9 1 3 ft. ) on the Siegfried map (f hr. ) ; 
as it overlooks the Meiten gl. it might 
be called the Co?nbin de Meiten, for 
the sake of distinction. Easy broken 
rocks on the W. ridge bring the traveller 
without difficulty to the point where 
the route from the Sonadon gl. gains 
the W. ridge (2 hrs. ), and J hr. more 
suffices to gain the Combin de Valsorey 
(4,145 m. , 13,600 ft.) A short 
descent into a snowy hollow is fol- 
lowed by a short reascent to the 
Aiguille du Croissant (-| hr. ) Under 
ordinary circumstances 3f hrs. suffice 
for the ascent from the Col. Thus 
the round from the Col by the W. 
arete and back to the Col by the N.E. 
arete and the 4 Corridor ' can be 
accomplished in 6 hrs. by good 
walkers. 

(c) By the S.E. Arete. — This is the 
best route for a party coming from 
Aosta or the Chanrion Club hut, as the 
night can be spent at the By chalets 
(see Rte. D). From the chalets the 
W. Col de By (3,300 m., 10,827 ft.), 



ROUTE G. BOURG ST. PIERRE TO CHANRION 447 



E. of the Amianthe, may be gained 
in 2 hrs. The head of the Mont 
Durand gl. must then be traversed, 
keeping first to the L, then to the 
r. , in order to avoid its most cre- 
vassed portion. The foot of the S.E. 
ridge is thus gained. It consists of 
loose shaly rocks, with occasional 
beds of snow, but is not very steep, 
save one great rock about 60 ft. high. 
This is climbed by means of a gully 
to the 1. , and above easy snow slopes 
lead to the summit. 7 hrs. suffice for 
the ascent from By. 



Route G. 

BOURG ST. PIERRE TO CHANRION BY 
THE COL DU SONADON. 

This first-rate glacier pass lies in the 
direct line of communication between 
Chamonix and Zermatt. It was first 
made in 1 86 1 by Mr. F. W. Jacomb 
(who did so much to discover the 
' High- Level Route,' of which this 
pass is one of the most important links), 
with J. B. and Michel Croz. Three 
weeks later it was crossed for the 
second time by the Rev. J. F. Hardy 
and three friends. But though it is 
very direct it is so dangerous on the 
W. side that it is nowadays but 
rarely traversed, especially as the 
passes described in Rtes. D and F 
enable a traveller to turn this obstacle, 
and yet rejoin the direct line at 
Chanrion. 

The route from Bourg St. Pierre is 
for a long time identical with that to 
the Col de Valsorey (Rte. D), but 
when the way to that pass bears to 
the S.E. (2J hrs. from the village) the 
traveller bound for the Sonadon must 
keep due E. towards the glacier of 
that name. This fine glacier is cut in 
half, right across, by a fault in the rock 
of its bed, over which the ice tumbles. 
Several attempts made by Mr. 



Hardy's party, composed of excellent 
mountaineers and first-rate guides, to 
descend by the middle, or S.W., 
corner of the glacier utterly failed. 
Unless a long detour is made over the 
great buttress running up towards the 
W. arete of the Grand Combin (which 
involves a considerable ascent, and then 
a descent) it is necessary to climb up a 
steep couloir (not hard in itself) in the 
rocks on the N, of the gl. , in order to 
gain the upper glacier (2 J hrs.) But 
stones fall continually in this couloir ', 
and the risk is so great as to be unjus- 
tifiable. 

[From the upper Sonadon gl. it is 
quite possible to ascend in 3 hrs. 
by a great buttress to the W. arete 
of the Grand Combin, which is 
struck at a point a little W. of the 
Combin de Valsorey. See Rte. F. 
The same point may also be gained 
from the Meiten gl. N. of the lower 
bit of the Sonadon gl.] 

When once the upper level of the 
gl. has been reached the difficulties of 
the way are over. \\ hr. ascending 
j over snow slopes suffices to reach the 
i Col, 3,489 m. , 1 1 ,447 ft. (6 J hrs. from 
Bourg St. Pierre. ) 

[Hence the Grand Combin, which 
rises magnificently above the route 
just traversed, can be climbed in 5 hrs. 
by its great S. E. ridge. The snowy 
summit, called Amianthe, or Mont 
Sonadon (3,600 m., 11,812 ft.), just 
S. of the Col, can be easily gained in 
\ hr. , and commands a splendid view 
on all sides. To its E. is the W. Col 
de By (3,300 m., 10,827 by which 
the By chalets can be reached in 2 hrs. 
or less, and Ollomont gained in I hr. 
more. (See Rte. D. )J 

To the E. of the Col du Sonadon 
the vast Mont Durand glacier de- 
scends in a gentle curve, convex to 
the S., where it is guarded by the 
Testa Bianca, or Tete de By (3,482 
m. , 11,424 ft.), and the Mont Avril 
(3,341 m. 3 10,962 ft.) Beyond it, 
in the distance, is seen the Otemma 
gl. , between the Mont Gele and the 
Pointe d'Otemma, while N. of the 
latter summit the Breney gl. is per- 



448 PENNINE ALPS. § 18. GRAND COMBIN DISTRICT 



ceived. The upper part of the Mont 
Durand gl. is quite free from diffi- 
culty, but there are two considerable 
icefalls lower down. The exact route 
to be followed varies much with the 
state of the glacier. Sometimes it is 
necessary to cross from the 1. to the r. 
bank between the two icefalls, but 
different parties have succeeded, with- 
out difficulty, in effecting the descent 
entirely by the L or by the r. bank, 
or edge of the gl. It is most conve- 
nient to get off it on the r. bank, as 
the Chermontane chalets are thus 
more quickly gained (3 hrs. from the 
pass). A path leads thence down to 
the infant Dranse, which is crossed, and 
a fresh ascent by another path brings 
the traveller to the Chanrion Club hut 
(2,460 m., 8,071 ft.) in f-i hr. from 
Chermontane. 

In taking this pass from Chanrion 
it is decidedly difficult to hit upon the 
true line of descent into the Valsorey. 
4 The clue to it is to keep above a 
distinct tower of rock, of a reddish 
colour, on the r. bank of the upper 
Sonadon gl. , and then to descend a 
couloir' (E. N. B.) 



Route H. 

CHANRION TO THE VALPELLINE. AS- 
CENTS FROM CHANRION. 

We have described in Routes D, E, 
F, and G the ranges on the W. side 
of the upper Dranse or Bagnes valley, 
lying between it and the Great St. 
Bernard road. Now we must proceed 
to give some account of those on the 
E. bank of the same valley, lying 
between it, the Valpelline, the Arolla, 
and the Heremence glens. 

The best starting point for almost 
all expeditions in these ranges (as 
well as for those near the Col de 
Fenetre, Rte. E) is the recently built 
Chanrion Club hnt, by far the most 



convenient headquarters at the head 
of the Bagnes valley, now inha- 
bited during the summer by a care- 
taker, but soon, it is to be hoped, to 
become a small mountain inn. It 
is admirably situated at a height of 
2,460 m. (8,071 ft.), on a knoll above 
the shepherd's hut of the same name 
and two small tarns, commands 
magnificent views to the S. and W. , 
and is only about J hr. by a short 
descent from the great Otemma glacier 
itself. From the inn at Mauvoisin 
it may be reached in 3 hrs. by way 
of Lancey, 10 m. below which the 
path crosses to the r. bank of the 
Dranse. A little beyond a shepherd's 
hut (above the ruins of the old inn) 
the path bifurcates. The r.-hand 
branch, after passing at a level high 
above the Dranse, descends to cross 
to the Grande Chermontane huts ; 
the /. -hand branch mounts to Chan- 
rion ; the Club hut may be reached 
in f hr. from the Grande Chermon- 
tane huts by crossing the Dranse 
just below those huts, and then 
making a considerable ascent by a 
path bearing up to the r. from the 
bridge. 

This Club hut is admirably placed, 
and its position offers attractions to the 
mountaineer which are scarcely sur- 
passed elsewhere in the Alps. Op- 
posite is the extensive Mont Durand 
glacier ; a little to the N. is that of 
Breney, while almost due E. stretches 
the even greater Otemma glacier. 
Many passes lead over these glaciers, 
and are described in Rtes. G, I, 
and K. 

' There are several peaks which may 
be climbed direct from the Club hut, 
and are worth visiting, as they com- 
mand very fine views. The nearest 
is the Pointe (P Otemma (3,394 m -> 
11,136 ft), which may be ascended 
in 3 hrs. by way of its rocky W. face 
and S. arete. Another panoramic 
point is the Mont Avril (3,34-1 m., 
10,962 ft.), easily gained by shale 
slopes in i| hr. from the Col de 
Fenetre itself (2 hrs. from the hut, Rte. 
E). The Bee cCEpicoun (3,527 m., 



ROUTE H. CHANRION 



TO THE VALPELLINE 



11,572 ft.) is strongly recommended 
as a good, though a difficult, climb, 
while the view from the summit is 
superb ; it is best gained (4J hrs. ) 
by its W. face, which leads to the S. 
arete, a little S. of the summit. The 
Mont Gele (3,517 m., 1 1,539 ft.) may 
be gained in 4 or 5 hrs. , the most 
direct way being to mount from the 
Crete Seche glacier to the foot of a 
broad couloir in the N.E. face, and 
then to climb up rocks to the S.E. 
arete, which can either be followed to 
the highest and central summit over 
a secondary point, or else a descent 
soon made to the 1. on to the Balme or 
Faudery glacier, whereon the ordinary 
route is joined. The usual route is more 
circuitous, and consists in crossing 
either the Col de Fenetre (Rte. E) 
or the Col de Crete Seche, and then 
mounting by rocks to the Faudery 
glacier, which is ascended to the 
summit. The view from this peak is 
most striking, the Otemma glacier in 
particular being seen in its entire 
length. The Ruinette (3,879 m., 
12,727 ft.) can be reached in 4 hrs. 
from the Club hut by crossing the 
Breney glacier, mounting to the Col 
de Lyrerose, 3,090 m., 10,138 ft. (S. 
edge of the glacier of the same name), 
and then climbing up to and following 
the S. arete of the peak, a short cut 
being taken across the uppermost snows 
to the foot of the S. W. rocky ridge, by 
which the summit is attained. It is 
possible to follow the N. E. arete to the 
Mont Blanc de Seilon, 3,871 m., 
12,700 ft. (4 hrs.), but the latter peak 
is usually ascended from the Col de 
Seilon (Rte. K). The Mont Pleuretir 
(3,706 m., 12,159 ft-) might be 
reached from the hut by the Cols de 
Lyrerose and du Mont Rouge, but 
the ascent is much shorter from the 
inn at Mauvoisin (Rte. E), while no 
doubt active mountaineers could climb 
the Eve que, Mont Collon, or the Pigne 
d? Arolla in a long day on their way 
to the Valpelline or to Arolla, but 
these three peaks are best taken from 
Arolla. 

For the direct high-level route from 
I. 



Chanrion to Zermatt (c. 11-12 hrs. ) 
by the Col de Chermontane, Col de 
PEveque, N. Col du Mont Brule, and 
Col de Valpelline, see Introduction to 
this Section, 3. below, and § 19. 
Rte. E. 

The traveller bound from Chanrion 
to the Valpelline must traverse some 
part of the immense Otemma (or 
Hautemma) glacier. This great 
glacier is by far the finest of those 
flowing into the Val de Bagnes. It is 
about 6 m. in length by f m. in 
breadth, and expands at its summit 
into a great field of neve, which also 
feeds the Vuibez glacier. Like the 
Mont Durand glacier (Rte. G) it is 
convex to the S., descending at first 
to the S.W. , and bent round till at its 
base it flows somewhat N. of W. On 
the N. W. it is bounded by a steep range, 
crowned by the Pointe d Otemma 
(3>394 m - 3 11,136 ft.) and the Pigne 
d? Arolla (3,801 m., 12,471 ft.) On 
the S.E. it is guarded by an equally 
steep and lofty, but far less known 
ridge, the chief summits of which are the 
Mont Gele (3,517 m., 11,539 ft.), the 
Bee de Ciardonnet (3,398 m. , 11,149 
ft.), the Bee d'Epicoun (3,527 m., 
11,572 ft.), the M. Oulie (3,550 m., 
11,647 ft* ), the Bee de Blancien 
(3,662 m., 12,015 ft.)> and La Seng-la 
(3,702 m., 12,146 ft.), these names 
and heights being taken chiefly from 
the Siegfried map in preference to the 
Italian map, though the latter is in- 
dispensable to any one crossing a 
pass from the Otemma glacier to the 
Valpelline. On the faith of statements 
made by the hunters of the Val de 
Bagnes the early travellers who 
visited these regions were led to 
believe that the head of the Otemma 
glacier was barred by an impassable 
ridge of rocks, called the Crete a 
Collon, forbidding all passage from 
the Bagnes valley towards the Arolla 
glen. But the traverse of the Col 
d'Oren by Mr. Tuckett in 1861, and 
that of the Col de Chermontane 
made a few weeks later by Sir T. F. 
Buxton and his companions, finally 
disproved the existence of any such 
G G 



45o PENNINE ALPS. § 18. GRAND COMBIN DISTRICT 



barrier, and thus opened to Alpine 
travellers one of the grandest high- 
ways through the Pennine Alps. The 
supposed barrier probably owed its 
fabulous existence to the fact that, 
looking from up the foot of the 
Otemma glacier, the point now called 
Petit Mont Collon and its neighbours 
seemed to block the way towards the 
route of the well-known Col de 
Collon. 

To go from Chanrion to the Val- 
pelline the mountaineer has a choice 
between a number of passes, which 
give access to various portions of the 
Valpelline. Referring to Sir Martin 
Conway's ' Central Pennine Alps ' for 
minute details as to all the possible 
passages across the ridge between 
the Otemma glacier and the Valpel- i 
line, we may limit ourselves in this 
work to three, which seem to possess 
real, practical importance. The first 
leads to the lower reach of the Val- 
pelline (Oyace), the second to the 
middle reach (Bionaz), and the third 
to the head (Praraye) of that valley. 
(For a detailed description of this 
valley see § 19. Rte. E.) 

From Chanrion the way to these 
three passes is the same as far as the 
lower part of the Otemma gl., but 
for the second and third there is a 
shorter route. Instead of entering 
on the gl. near its snout and then 
circling round under the icefall, it is 
better to take a rough and ill-defined 
path, which leads up the rocks N. of 
the icefall, and so enables a traveller 
to reach the upper portion of the gl. 
much sooner than by the other route. 
(After leaving the Otenwia gl,, when 
coming from any of these three passes, 
and gaining the cow path, it is neces- 
sary to strike up over grass slopes, 
bearing to the L , so as to join the path 
mounting from the bridge over the 
Dranse. The hut is not visible from 
any point within a couple of miles, so 
that it is not easy to find, especially 
as mists are of frequent occurrence. ) 

1. By the Col de Crete Seche to 
Oyace or Bio?iaz. — This is an old pass, 
as it is described by P. A. Arnod, at 



the end of the seventeenth century, 
.and offers no difficulties, though it is 
not passable by mules. From Chan- 
rion the Otemma glacier is crossed in 
a S. direction, and then the tributary 
Crete Seche glacier ascended in the 
same direction to the pass, 2,888 m., 
9,475 ft. (3 hrs. from Chanrion.) On 
the S. side of the Col is a slope of 
neve, followed by moderately steep 
rocks, very rough slopes of debris, 
and the remains of ancient mo- 
raines. On the way a fine view is 
gained of the Grand Paradis group, 
straight in front, and on the 1. of the 
Bee de Luseney, a very fine summit, 
the highest in the range between the 
Valpelline and the St. Barthelemy glen 
(see § 19. Rte. G). A track leads down 
the Crete Seche glen to the Valpelline, 
which is gained at a point f hr. above 
Oyace, that village being reached in 
3 hrs. from the pass. Bionaz, higher 
up the valley, may be gained direct 
from the Col by keeping at once 
N.E. round the N. end of Mont 
I Berlon, and going down the Verde- 
| campe glen and past the Berrie huts. 
. Or from the lower end of the Crete 
! Seche glen ' Bionaz may be reached 
! in rather less time than Oyace by 
I bearing to the 1. near the upper limit 
of tree vegetation. Following a little 
watercourse ( Wasserleitung) through 
\ the forest, the traveller reaches the 
! main valley close to the village of 
i Bionaz' (F. G.) 

2. By the Col d' Otemma or the Col 
! de Biancien to Bionaz or Praraye. — 
These two passes are separated only 
by a rocky crest, and are approached 
from the Otemma glacier by the same 
tributary glacier, that flowing down 
from between the Bee de la Sciossa, 
3,480 m., 11,418 ft. (called Sziassa 
or Oule Cecca on the Siegfried map), 
and the Bee de Biancien (3,662 m. , 
12,015 ft.) The ascent on the Swiss 
side is perfectly straightforward, either 
gap being attained in about 3J hrs. 
from Chanrion. From the W. gap, the 
Col d Ote?nma (3,363 m., 11,034 ft., 
Italian map), the Bee de la Sciossa 
can be easily ascended, and from the 



ROUTE H. CHANRION 



TO THE VALPELLINE 451 



E. gap, or Col de Blancien (3,491 nr., 
11,454 ft. Italian map), the Bee de 
Blancien in \ hr. 

From either gap a branch of the 
Sciossa or Sassa glacier is descended 
to the glen of the same name, through 
which the Valpelline is gained (3J hrs. ) 
at a point \ hr. above Bionaz. If 
bound for Praraye, at the head of the 
Valpelline, it is best to bear E, from 
the Sassa glacier to the Col de Sassa 
(3,183 m., 10,443 ft-)? fc° m which a 
broad snow couloir leads down to the 
head of the Combe d'Oren, the Col 
de Collon route being thence followed 
to Praraye (2 \ hrs. from the first 
pass). Praraye can also be gained 
in 2J hrs. from the Boetta huts 
(2 hrs. from the pass), in the Sassa 
glen, by crossing a bridge below them 
and then following an upper path 
round the hillside and across a brow. 

3. By the Col d'Oren to Praraye. — 
This pass was originally called Col 
de la Reuse (Aostan word for a 
glacier) d'Arolla, and this name is 
still given to it as an alternative on 
the Siegfried map. It affords the 
most direct route from Chanrion to 
Praraye, the time required being about 
7 hrs. The first known passage by 
travellers was effected in 1861 by 
Mr. F. F. Tuckett, accompanied by 
Messrs. C. H. and W. F. Fox, and 
guided by J. J. Bennen and Peter 
Perren. After gaining the Otemma 
glacier from Chanrion it is only 
necessary to ascend its gentle slopes 
till after passing the N. spur of La 
Sengla the traveller must turn S.E. 
up a lateral glacier (the highest tribu- 
tary on the S. E. side of the Otemma 
glacier). The snow slopes soon 
become steeper, but the only difficulty 
is a large bergschrund, after crossing 
which steps must be cut up to the 
pass (3,242 m., 10,637 ft.) It lies 
just N.E. of La Sengla (3,702 m., 
12,146 ft.), which may be thence 
climbed in an hour. 

[If bound for Zermatt by the direct 
route, it is necessary to bear E. from 
- the lateral glacier, in order to cross 
• the broad snowy depression of the 



Col du Petit Mont Collon (3,300 m., 
10,827 ft.), lying just S. of Petit Mont 
Collon. This soon leads to the Col de 
PEveque (3,393 m., 11,132 ft.), which 
is traversed to the head of the Arolla 
glacier before the N. Col du Mont 
Brule is attained. For details see 
§ 19. Rte. E.J 

Some steep rocks lead down to. the 
gently inclined upper- slopes of the 
Oren glacier, down which- it* is neces- 
sary to go till* the-icefall-- compels the 
mountaineer to descend the rocks on 
the 1. bank, in order to gain the moraine 
of the lower portion of the same 
glacier. Soon after the route of the 
Col de Collon is joined in- the Oren 
glen ? and followed to Praraye. 



Route I. 

CHANRION TO AROLLA, BY THE 
OTEMMA OR BRENEY GLACIERS. 

In the last Rte. we described the 
passes leading from Chanrion to the 
Valpelline, i.e. over the range which 
forms the S.E. limit of the great 
Otemma gl. The rocky range which 
forms the N. W. boundary of that 
gl. separates it from the Breney gl. , 
and over both of these ice fields 
passes lead directly or indirectly 
to Arolla. The first of the three 
described below is the easiest, but 
the second is not difficult, and should 
be preferred in fine weather, as it can 
be easily combined with the ascent of 
the Pigne d'Arolla. 

1. By the Col de Chermontane. — 
This pass lies over the very head of 
the Otemma gl. , and would thus 
naturally have traversed the Crete a 
Collon, had not that mysterious 
barrier been shown not to exist 
(Rte. H). It was, indeed, the passage 
of the Col de Chermontane in 1861 
which finally destroyed that shadowy 
ridge. For all practical purposes this 
pass was discovered, on August 16, 
G G 2 



452 PENNINE ALPS. § 18. GRAND COMBIN DISTRICT 



1 86 1, by Sir T. F. Buxton, Mr. J. J. 
Cowell, and Mr. E. N. Buxton, with 
Michel Payot, of Chamonix, as leader. 
Perhaps, however, it had been made 
before that date. In September 1853 
the writer (J. B. ) was informed by 
the younger Pralong and another 
herdsman at the Arolla chalets that a 
stranger had mounted, along with two 
men of the valley, by one of the 
neighbouring glaciers (? Piece gl. ), 
and had passed over a glacier that 
reached to the Val de Bagnes, and 
that there is a pass (? Col de Crete 
Seche) leading from the same gl. 
to Valpelline. It is worth noting, 
though it may be merely a coinci- 
dence, that in 1849 Herren G. Studer 
and M. Ulrich, with Jean Pralong as 
local guide, went from Arolla to the 
Val de Bagnes by the Pas de Chevres, 
and the Cols de Seilon and du Mont 
Rouge, and that in 1852 the same two 
travellers, with a local porter, went 
in one day from the head of the 
Heremence valley to the Val de 
Bagnes by the Seilon and the Mont 
Rouge passes, and on the next over 
the Col de Crete Seche to the Val- 
pelline, returning on the third day to 
Arolla by the Col de Collon, and 
sleeping that night at Pralong's house 
at Hauderes. 

The way from Chanrion to the Col 
de Chermontane is for a considerable 
distance nearly the same as that to 
the Col d'Oren (Reuse d' Arolla, 
Rte. H. 3), except that on gaining the 
upper level it is better to keep nearer 
the N. bank of the gl. The summit 
of the Col de Chermontane is a vast 
field of neve, lying between the Pigne 
d' Arolla and the Mont Collon, and 
so level that it is not easy to deter- 
mine the exact watershed. The Sieg- 
fried map makes its height 3,084 m. 
(10,119 ft.) 

The direct line from the pass 
towards Arolla would lie N. E. down 
the Vuibez gl., which joins the main 
stream of the Arolla gl. at the N.W. 
base of the Mont Collon. This gl. 
descends in two formidable icefalls, 
divided by a central mass of rock, the 



N. icefall being again divided by a rib 
of rock. (The N. bit of the N. ice- 
fall, immediately under the Vuibez 
rocks, is known as the Vuignette ice- 
fall. ) In some years it is possible to 
force a way down the Vuibez gl. 
by the central mass of rock, or 
partly by the N. icefall itself, partly 
by the rocks on one or other side of it ; 
but at present, and usually, the diffi- 
culty, not to say danger, of such a 
course is so great that it is better 
to aim at a gap in the ridge of the 
Vuibez rocks that shut in, on the 
N. side, the two icefalls of the Vuibez 
gl. , the opening lying just N. of the 
N. branch. This gap (3,200 m., 
10,499 ft -) is called the Col de Piece, 
and is gained by a sharp ascent and then 
over a nearly level plateau in about 
f hr. from the Col de Chermontane, or 
5 hrs. from Chanrion. From it the 
traveller enjoys a noble view, extend- 
ing through the openings between the 
neighbouring peaks to many distant 
Alpine summits. Immediately on the 
N. of the Col is the Piece gl. , down 
which lies the way to Arolla. The 
best way is to circle round to the r. , 
and cross on the level ice to its /. side 
to the crest of the great moraine on 
its 1. bank, which towers above the 
traveller. He*e there is a path which 
leads along that crest, and then over 
grass-covered moraine in a N.E. 
direction down to Arolla, the hotel 
being seen from afar (if hr. ) On 
the 1. hand is the Zigiorenove gl., 
remarkable for its rapid alteration 
and advance of recent years, as well 
as for the triple series of great moraines 
on its 1. bank. 

[Sometimes it is best to follow the r. 
edge of the Piece gl. under the Vuibez 
rocks. At the N. end of these rocks 
a small side tongue of ice descends, 
which must be crossed (not always 
easy), after which, by a sort of path, 
the route to Arolla, described above, is 
joined. After quitting the Piece gl. 
— particularly if by the r. bank — care 
should be taken not to bear to the 1. 
or N.', as the traverse of the huge 
moraines on either side of the 



ROUTE I. CHANRION TO AROLLA 



453 



Zigiorenove gl. is very wearisome, 
and lengthens the descent to Arolla. ] 

2. By the Col de Breney. — This 
pass lies between the Pigne d'Arolla 
on the E. and the Serpentine on the 
W. It is, perhaps, the finest pass from 
Chanrion to Arolla, though compe- 
tent judges rate the Col de Cher- 
montane even higher. From Chan- 
rion it is necessary to go N. over 
stony grass slopes, rocks, and moraine 
to the 1. bank of the Breney gl. 
(ijhr. ), gained above its crevassed 
lower portion. The, traveller must 
cross the gl. to its r.. moraine, which 
is followed for some way, and then 
go up the main gl. itself, turning 
the icefall by its N. side, and so 
gaining gentle snow fields which lead 
up to the pass, c. 3,620 m., 11,877 ft. 
(4^-5 hrs. ) Hence the Serpentine 
(3,691 rm, 12,110 ft. ) may be gained 
in J hr. by its long snow ridge. A 
much finer view is to be had from the 
Pigne d'Arolla (3,801 m., 12,471 ft. ), 
one of the most famous panoramic 
points in Switzerland. From the Col 
a gentle snow slope leads to the sum- 
mit in 20 min. , whence it is easy to 
reach the Col de Piece in \ hr. more, 
and so descend to, Arolla. The view 
includes all the chief summits of the 
Pennine and Bernese Oberland Alps, 
and extends to the Grivola and Grand 
Paradis. From the Col de Breney the 
descent lies down to the easy Seilon 
gl., joining the route, from the Col de 
Seilon (Rte. K) on the level lower 
portion of that gl. , Arolla being then 
gained by the Pas de Chevres ( 3 hrs. ) 

3. By the Col de la Serpentine. — 
In 1865 Messrs. A. W. Moore and 
H. Walker made a new pass to which 
they gave the name of Col de Breney, 
but the Swiss surveyors have altered 
this to the more distinctive name of Col 
de la Serpentine, as the route lies up 
a branch of the Breney gl. which is 
really an independent gl. and deserves 
the name of Serpentine gl. The pass 
lies between the rocky N. spur of the 
Serpentine and the Mont Blanc de 
Seilon. It is to be noted that it is 
far easier to gain the pass from Arolla 



by the Pas de Chevres and Seilon gl. 
than by the Zinareffien rocks, as de- 
scribed below, and that the Mont 
Blanc de Seilon may be climbed from 
the pass in 2 hrs. by the S. face, then 
the crest, of the E. arete. ' We fol- 
lowed for a while the path leading to, 
the Pas de Chevres, and then, bear- 
ing to the 1., in ji hr. attained the 
Zigiorenove gl., here quite level. 
H-igher up the gl. is a continuous ice- 
fall of the most impracticable charac- 
ter. The rocks on its r. bank do not 
look promising, but in those on the 1. 
we found an accessible point. We 
reached their base in § hr. , . and after 
\\ hr. 's severe climbing succeeded in 
getting on to the gl. again, above the 
icefall. Above there was no further 
difficulty, and in 1 hr. 40 min. we 
reached what appeared to be the 
highest point in the snowfield, which 
also feeds the Seilon gl. and the W. 
branch of the Breney gl. The eleva- 
tion of the pass was a great surprise 
(3,546 m. ,,11,634 ft.), as we looked 
fairly over the Col d'Herens (3,480 
m.., 11,418 ft.) From 1 this point we 
ascended the Pigne d'Arolla (3,801 
m. , 12,471 ft.) in 1 hr. with ease. 
This is not properly a peak, but 
merely the highest undulation in a 
snow field, and is cut away precipit- 
ously towards the N. We returned 
to the Col in \ hr. , and, passing 
between the Mont Blanc de Seilon 
and the N. end of the ridge of the 
Serpentine, descended the W. branch 
of the Breney gl. We found a toler- 
able passage through the icefall on its 
1. side, but should have done better 
had we kept to the other side, under 
the Ruinette. Below the icefall we 
joined the main stream of the Breney 
gl., at the S. foot of the Serpentine, 
and finally quitted the ice on its 1. 
bank in 2.\ hrs. from the Col. Thence 
we descended in f hr. to a point at 
the head of the Val de Bagnes, not 
far from Chanrion, which was reached 
in 9! hrs.' walking from Arolla, in- 
cluding the ascent of the Pigne 
d'Arolla '(A. W. M.) 

From the pass the Mont Blanc 



454 PENNINE ALPS. § 18. GRAND COMBIN DISTRICT 



de Seilon (3,871 m., ^2,700 ft.) may 
be climbed in 2 hrs. by skirting along 
the S. slope of the E. ridge till that 
ridge is gained close to the great cor- 
nice on the N. side, and then clamber- 
ing over and around many rock pin- 
nacles. If the peak is climbed from 
Arolla and back this route affords the 
means of traversing it to -the Col de 
Seilon. 



ROUTE K. 

MAUVOISIN OR CHANRION TO AROLLA 
OR HERE"ivIENCE BY THE COLS DU 
MONT ROUGE AND DE SEILON. 

These passes, long familiar to the 
hunters of Bagnes, though but rarely 
used by them, became known to 
travellers only after they had been 
crossed (and described) by Herren G. 
Studer and M. Ulrich in 1849 and 
1852, as well as by Messrs. E. S. 
Kennedy, Ainslie, and Stevenson in 
1855, and by Messrs. W. and C. E. 
Mathews in 1856. Now they form 
the usual high-level route between 
the Val de Bagnes and Arolla, so that 
they are frequently traversed every 
summer. 

The Gietroz gl. may be reached 
either from the inn at Mauvoisin or 
from the new Club hut (Rte. H) at 
Chanrion ; in the latter case only is it 
necessary to cross the Col du Mont 
Rouge, which is practically level with 
the upper plateau of the Gietroz gl. 

If starting from Mauvoisin the 
traveller must descend from the hillock 
on which stands the inn, and follow 
the path up the valley on the 1. bank 
of the Dranse for about \ hr. , when 
a bridge leads across the stream. The 
path along the r. bank of the torrent is 
followed for 5 min. more, when it is 
quitted for another which bears E. 
up the hill-side to a shepherd's hut. 
Then it is necessary to mount N. E. 



by steep grass, and up a great slope 
of black rocks and shale to a point 
called the Col de Gietroz (3 hrs.) 
This point is really the 1. edge of the 
Gietroz gl., at the N.W. end of the 
rocky ridge bounding it on the W. , 
and just S. of the spot where the 
great ice tongue of that gl. descends 
into the Val de Bagnes. (Hence the 
Mont Pleurtur (3,706 m., 12,159 ft.) 
may be ascended in 2 hrs. by its S. 
face and S.W. arete. See Rte. E. ) 

[As a matter of history we may just 
mention here that the old route from 
Mauvoisin made a great circuit from 
the shepherd's hut in a S. direction 
to the Lyrerose gl. , and so to the Col 
du Mont Rouge. 3 

From the Col de Gietroz an easy' 
snow walk of J-f hr. (according to the 
condition of the snow) in a S.E. 
direction leads to the Col de Seilon 
(c. 3,200 m., 10,499 ft.), a snowy 
depression just S.E. of the rocks 
marked 3,250 m. on the Siegfried 
map. 

If coming from Chanrion the Col 
de Breney route (Rte. I. 2) must be 
followed to the moraine on the r. 
bank of the Breney gl., and then 
stones mounted in a N.W. direction to 
the S. edge of the Lyrerose gl. , at 
the point called Col de Lyrerose, 
3,090m., 10,138 ft. (2 hrs.) Thence 
an easy ascent N. up that gl. brings 
the traveller in 1 hr. more to the 
Col du Mont Rouge (3,341 m., 
10,962 ft.) From this pass there is 
a very fine view to the N. , W. , and S. , 
which may be extended by mounting 
in a few minutes to the knoll on the 
N. W. , named Mont Rattge de Gietroz 
(3,427 m., 11,244 ft.) 

From the Col du Mont Rouge or 
'the Col de Gietroz it is seen how 
extensive an upper reservoir of neve 
is drained by the comparatively small 
icefall which is all that is to be seen 
of the Gietroz gl. from the Val de 
Bagnes. The upper basin of that 
gl. (across which a traverse in a N.E. 
direction leads in \ hr. from the Col 
du Mont Rouge to the Col de Seilon) is 
a nearly level snow field, lying N.W. 



ROUTE K. MAUVOISIN OR CHANRION TO AROLLA 455 



of the Mont Blanc de Seilon (3,87 1 m. , 
12,700 ft. ) and the Ruinette, 3,879 m. , 
12,727 ft. (the two highest summits of 
the mountain region extending from the 
Grand Com bin to the Dent Blanche), 
and S. of the black slopes of the 
Mont Pletireur (3,706 m., 12,159 ft.) 

[The ascent of the last-named peak 
from the Col de Gietroz has been 
noticed above. The Mont Blanc de 
Seilon is best ascended from the Col 
de Seilon itself in about 2 hrs. by 
following its W. rocky ridge to the 
gap N. of a great snow dome on the 
S. arete, whence a rock ridge, often 
fringed by a dangerous corniche — 
precautions necessary — leads to the 
summit, which commands a very fine 
view. The peak may also be gained 
in 2 hrs. from the Col de la Serpentine 
(Rte I. 3). The Rui?iette may be 
climbed in 2-4 hrs. from the neigh- 
bourhood of the Col du Mont Rouge 
by gaining from the N. W. some point 
on its upper S.W. arete, but is more 
conveniently taken in 4 hrs. from 
Chanrion (Rte. H) by ascending easy 
rocks from the Col de Lyrerose itself 
to the S. arete. It is possible to 
follow the ridge (first bit the hardest) 
from the summit of the Ruinette to 
that of the Mont Blanc de Seilon in 
about 4 hrs. J 

The Col de Seilon forms the water- 
shed between the Val de Bagnes and 
the Val d'Heremence. On the 
Heremence side a considerable gl. 
descends, which bore many names on 
the early maps, but is now best known 
as the Seilon gl. In descending this 
gl. it is desirable to get off as soon as 
possible on to the debris on its 1. 
bank, which is followed to its level 
lower portion. Here the routes to 
to Arolla and Heremence divide. 

(a) If bound to Arolla the traveller 
must cross to the r. bank of the gl. 
(less than 1 hr. from the Col de 
Seilon), and then traverse at some 
point the ridge between the Mont 
Rouge d' Arolla on the N. and the 
Zinareffien rocks on the S. Two 
passes at least lead over this range. 
The lowest point in the ridge is the 



well-known Pas de Chevres (2,85 1 m. , 
9, 354 ft. ) On this side a clearly marked 
sloping rocky ledge leads to the pass 
in 10 min. or so. It is not really diffi- 
cult (though care must betaken, since 
a fall entails very unpleasant results), 
but is at first sight so formidable that 
in 1856 Messrs. Mathews, guided by 
Bernard Trolliet, preferred to avoid 
it by climbing over the ridge at a 
higher point, rather further to the S. 
A little to the N. of the Pas de 
Chevres is the somewhat higher Col 
de Riedmatten (2,916 m., 9,567 ft.), 
which, it is said, mules can traverse. 
Once the ridge crossed, by one or the 
other pass, there is an easy descent E. 
by a rough but gradually improving 
path over fine pastures along the L 
side of the glen to Arolla, reached in 
\\ hr. from the Pas de Chevres, or 
about 2,\ hrs. from the Col de Seilon. 

(b) A party bound for Heremence 
should continue to descend the gl. 
for some way, then quit it on its 1. 
bank, and so gain the Seilon huts 
(l§ hr. from the Col de Seilon). 
Thence it is a walk of 4-5 hrs. to the 
village of Heremence, through the 
glen of that name, described in the 
following Rte, 



Route L. 

SION TO THE VAL DE BAGNES, OR 
AROLLA BY THE VAL D'HEREMENCE. 

Of all the considerable upland val- 
leys of the Central Pennine Alps the Val 
d'Heremence is certainly that which 
has least attracted the attention of 
travellers, though its uppermost bit is 
very well known, as it must be tra- 
versed by numerous parties on their 
way to or over the Col de Seilon. 
Historically it is interesting as having 
formed the most easterly bit of the 
domains of the Duke of Savoy in the 
Vallais, though in 1475 it shared the 
fate of the rest of ' Savoyard Vallais/ 



456 PENNINE ALPS. § 18. GRAND COMBIN DISTRICT 



being then conquered by the men of 
the Upper Vallais and their bishop, 
so that it became part of ' Episcopal 
Vallais. ' The Borgne here formed the 
limit of these two divisions, as the 
Morge, below Sion, did in the Rhone 
valley. Oxytropis fcetida, Carex 
microglochin, and Agrostis purpui-ea 
have been found in this glen. 

From Sion the road towards Evo- 
lena (§19. Rte. A) is followed as far as 
(5 \ m.) Vex. Hence a cart track 
leads up S. (above and W. of the high 
road to Evolena) to the chief village, 
Heremence (1,236 m., 4,055 ft.), in 
I hr. , which is finely situated, and com- 
mands a good view of the main 
Herens valley, with the peak of the 
Dent d'Herens in the background. It 
is at the mouth of the Heremence 
glen and above the junction of its 
stream, the Dixenze, with the Borgne. 
Various steps met with in mounting 
in the Heremence glen bear the names 
of Val des Dix, Val d' Or sera, and Val 
de la Barma. The mule path ascends 
along the 1. bank of the Dixenze, and 
in I hr. more reaches the huts of 
Mars. 

[Above and to the S.W. is the 
curious grotto in a cliff called Caverne 
d'Arzinol, or Grotte des Fees, said to 
bear traces of having served as a 
dwelling for some of the primitive in- 
habitants of the valley, but more 
probably connected with some mining 
operations. J 

2 hrs. beyond, the path, having 
passed through a narrow gorge and 
crossed to the r. bank, gains the 
Mayens of Prazlong (1,608 m., 
5,276 ft.), in the Val d'Orsera. 

[Hence the Col de Meina or 
oTArzinol (2,706 m., S,SyS ft.) leads 
in 5 hrs. by a mule track to Evolena, 
on the E. The Pic oTArzinol 
(3,001 m. , 9,846 ft. ) is easily ascended 
direct by its N.W. face, or in 1 hr. 
from the pass to the S.J 

1 hr. higher up the valley, on the r. 
bank, are the Meribe chalets. 

[The Col de Meina, also called Col 
de Meribe, is easily reached from here 
also. On the S.W. the Col de Praz- 



fleury gives access to the Cleuson 
glen, the head of the Nendaz valley, 
which joins the Rhone valley a little 
below Sion. But from the Col a 
traverse S.W. over the Grand Desert 
gl. brings the traveller to the Col de 
Lou vie (§ 18. Rte. E), by which Fion- 
nay, in the middle reach of the Val de 
Bagnes, is gained in about 6 hrs. 
from Meribe. 3 

From Meribe a steep ascent leads 
to the upper part (Val de la Barma) 
of the Heremence glen, the Barma 
huts, on the 1. bank, being attained in 
rather more than 1 hr. 

[Hence the Cols de Sevreu and 
du Cret lead over the Ecoulaies gl. 
to Fionnay, in the Val de Bagnes, 
in 5 or 6 hrs. The Pointe de Rosa 
Blanche (3,348 m., 10,985 ft.) may 
be climbed frOm the former pass by 
the S. arete in 1 hr. , or direct from 
the Barma huts by the Mourti gl. 
and the S. arete. E. of the huts the 
Col de Darbomieire is the best way of 
gaining the Arolla valley or Evolena. 
From it the Pointe de Vouasson 
(3,496 m., 11,470 ft.), on the N., is 
easily reached, and on the S. the N. 
peak (c. 3,600 m. , 11,812 ft.) of the 
Aigs. Rouges d'Arolla.Jl 

Several groups of chalets lie higher 
up towards the head of the valley. The 
last (6J- hrs. from Heremence) are those 
of Liappey (2,326 m., 7,632 ft.) and 
Seilon (2,272 m., 7,454 ft.), on the 1. 
and r. bank respectively, the last- 
named huts being just at the foot of 
the great Seilon gl., ij hr. from La 
Barma. 

[Hence the Col de Vasevay (3,263 
m., 10,706 ft.) leads in 6 hrs. over 
to the Mauvoisin inn, in the Val 
de Bagnes. The Mont Pletiretir 
(3,706 m., 12,159 ft. ) can be climbed 
in 2-3 hrs. from the Col (Rte. E), 
or direct from Liappey by the Len- 
darey gl., and by its E. rock and 
snow face. On the E. the A igs. Rouges 
d 1 Arolla (3,650 m., 11,976 ft.) can be 
climbed by gaining the gaps between 
them, as from Arolla. "J 

Above the Seilon huts the valley is 
closed by the Seilon gl. After mount- 



§ ig. EVOLENA, ZINAL, AND VALPELLINE DISTRICT 457 



ing up this a little way the Col de 
Riedmatten or the Pas de Chevres 
leads E. over to Arolla in about 3 hrs. 
from the huts. By continuing to 
ascend this gl. it is easy to pass over 
to Mauvoisin by the Col de Seilon in 
about 6 hrs. , or to cross the Cols du 
Mont Rouge and de Lyre Rose to 
Chanrion, a rather longer route. By 
keeping S.E. up the Seilon gl. the 
Col de Breney may be traversed to 
Chanrion (6-7 hrs.) For all these 
passes from the head of the Here- 
mence glen see Rtes. I and K. 



SECTION 19. 

EVOLENA, ZINAL, AND VALPEL- 
LINE DISTRICT. 

The principal valleys through which 
the drainage of the Central Pennine 
Alps is borne down to the Rhone 
present some striking points of agree- 
ment. In ascending the valleys of 
Herens or Anniviers (described in 
the present Section), or that of the 
Visp (§ 20) the traveller finds, after 
a few miles, that the main stream 
is formed by the union of two tor- 
rents, originating in two nearly 
parallel glens, and uniting at the 
base of the mountain ridge or spur 
which had previously divided them. 
Something of the same kind is seen 
in the valley of the Dranse du Grand 
St. Bernard (§ 18. Rte. A), but the 
bounding ranges do not follow so 
closely the meridional direction as in 
those just mentioned. Alternating 
with the gorges through which the 
Borgne, the Navigenze, and the 
Vispach flow into the Rhone valley, 
the much shorter valleys of Nendaz, 
Rechy, Turtmann, and Gamsen 
drain the N. part of the intervening 
mountain ranges. 

The two principal valleys included 
in this Section, the Val d' Herens 
{Germ. Eringerthal) and the Val 
d' Anniviers {Germ. Einfischthal), 



were for very many years amongst the 
least known in the Swiss Alps, 
mainly because of an exaggerated 
impression that the inhabitants were 
a rude and semibarbarous race, and 
that the traveller must there en- 
counter an unusual amount of filth 
and privation. Upon extremely 
slender grounds some Swiss and 
German writers have attributed to 
the people a foreign extraction 
(Scandinavian, Cimbric, Magyar, 
Hunnish, Saracenic), and made these 
valleys the seat of peculiar legends 
which are really common to a large por- 
tion of the Swiss Alps. In a first visit 
made by the writer (J. B. ) in 1845 to 
the Val d' Anniviers he found little or 
nothing in the language or appearance 
of the people to distinguish them 
from those of the Dranse valley, 
save what might be attributed to 
the rarity of their intercourse with 
strangers. They appeared very in- 
dustrious and hospitably-inclined, but 
extremely dirty in their habits. The 
necessities of their position lead them 
(as is the case in many other Alpine 
valleys) to live a partly nomadic life. 
The same family possessing some 
patches of arable land in the lower 
part of the valley, some pastures and 
meadows higher up, a share in a 
cattle alp on the upper slopes of the 
mountains, with perhaps a patch 
of vineyard in the Rhone valley, 
and each place being several hours' 
walk from the other, they are led 
to change their dwellings several 
times in a year. Hence it is not 
uncommon to find large groups of 
houses, called may ens ^ approaching 
the dimensions of a village, without a 
single inhabitant, the place being 
used only for some weeks in the early 
summer and again in the autumn, 
during the passage of their cattle 
between their winter quarters in the 
lower valley and the upper pastures. 
The above remarks apply only to the 
upper part of the Val d'Anniviers 
and to the valley of Turtmann. 
These glens seem to be still in the 
state in which most Alpine valleys 



458 PENNINE ALPS. § 19. 



EVOLENA DISTRICT 



formerly were, for it is an established 
historical fact that the upper bits of 
mountain valleys (e.g. Macugnaga, 
Saas, &c. ) were first used simply as 
summer pastures till gradually certain 
persons took up their permanent 
residence therein, and so each in 
course of time acquired a fixed 
population. 

In point of scenery these two 
valleys — especially the Val d'Anni- 
viers — scarcely yield to any in the 
Swiss Alps, unless it be to the 
neighbouring valleys of Zermatt and 
Saas. The opening of good inns at 
Evolena, Arolla, and Ferpecle, in the 
Val d'Herens, at Zinal, St. Luc, and 
Vissoye, in the Val d'Anniviers, and 
at Gruben, in the Turtmann valley, 
has done much to attract strangers 
to this district. The glacier passes 
leading to it are full of interest to the 
mountaineer, but are all somewhat 
laborious and scarcely to be recom- 
mended to most ladies or to unpractised 
pedestrians. Those connecting the 
Val d'Herens with the Val de Bagnes 
have been described in the last 
Section (Rtes. I and K). The main, 
or Arolla, branch of the Herens 
valley penetrates somewhat further 
S. than the Anniviers glen, so that, 
save a small bit of the Ferpecle 
branch near the Col des Bouquetins, 
it alone attains the frontier ridge 
between Switzerland and Italy. It 
is, therefore, practically most con- 
venient to include in this Section the 
long, but little visited, Valpelline, on 
the Italian side of the watershed, for 
one of the oldest of Alpine glacier 
passes, the Col de Collon, leads 
through the Arolla and Valpelline 
glens to Aosta (Rte. D). The accom- 
modation therein is still very poor, 
though the climber may find rough 
quarters at Praraye and Bionaz, and 
a fair inn at the village of Valpelline 
itself. On the other hand, as the 
Heremence glen, though it is a tribu- 
tary of the Val d'Herens, communi- 
cates directly with the Val de Bagnes, 
it is best included in § 18 (Rte. L). 

The limits of the area described in 



the present Section are therefore as 
follows. It extends from the Arolla 
and Valpelline valleys on the W. to 
the Zermatt and Valtournanche glens 
on the E. , while on the N. the 
boundary is the Rhone valley from 
Sion to Visp, and on the S. the 
valley of the Dora Baltea from Aosta 
to Chatillon. In other words, it 
takes in the mountainous region 
between Arolla and Zermatt, which 
comprises the Arolla, Ferpecle, 
Herens, Anniviers, and Turtmann 
glens on the N. side of the great 
watershed, and the Valpelline glen 
on the S. side. For minute details as 
to most of the peaks and passes men- 
tioned in the following pages the 
reader is referred to Sir Martin 
Conway's 4 Central Pennine Alps ' 
volume (1890) of the 'Climbers' 
Guide ' series. Mr. Larden's pains- 
taking and elaborate ' Guide d'Arolla ' 
(still in MS.) is deposited in the 
Arolla Kurhaus, while Signori Mon- 
dini and Canzio's monograph on the 
mountains round the St. Barthelemy 
valley (Rte. G) is indispensable to the 
traveller who would explore those 
regions. Avery useful list, in tabular 
form, of all the peaks and passes on 
the long ridge between the Valpelline 
and the Valtournanche was published 
by Mr. Alfred G. Topham in the 
17th vol. of the 4 Alpine Journal,' 
and may be mentioned here, though 
it is more convenient to describe 
certain of these peaks in § 20. Rte. B, 
because they are most usually climbed 
from Breuil, in the Valtournanche. 



ROUTE A. SION TO EVOLENA BY THE VAL D'HERENS 459 



Route A. 

SION TO EVOLENA BY THE VAL 
D'HERENS. EXCURSIONS FROM 
EVOLENA. 

Carriage road on the /. bank of the 
Borgne, 15I m., traversed by the post 
cart in 5! hrs. ; the old mule path runs 
along the r. bank of the Borgne. 

After crossing the bridge over the 
Rhone at Sion the road (leaving on 
the 1. the mule path by Bramois, Mage, 
and St. Martin, on the r. bank of the 
Borgne) leads to the foot of the moun- 
tain-side. This it ascends by long 
windings on the 1. bank of the Borgne 
to (5 J m. ) Vex, the easternmost village 
in 'Lower' or 'Savoyard Vallais,' 
which in 1475 was conquered by the 
bishop of Sion and the men of 
< Upper' or ' Episcopal Vallais.' (A 
pedestrian by taking the short cut may 
save an hour between Sion and Vex. ) 
During the ascent the traveller may 
see on the other side of the valley the 
curious sixteenth-century hermitage of 
Longe Borgne, the whole of which is 
hewn out of the living rock. Before 
reaching Vex the level of the Val 
d'Herens has been attained, and the 
Ferpecle gl., crowned by the Tete 
Blanche, the Dent Blanche, the Dent 
d'Herens, and the Grandes Dents, 
comes into sight. The road passes 
below the village of Herhnence, at the 
mouth of the glen of the same name 
(§ 18. Rte. L), and presently crosses 
the Dixenze torrent, flowing from 
it. Soon after* the road tunnels through 
an old moraine to (9§ m. ) Useigne. 
This moraine is remarkable for some 
singular ' earth pillars,' or columns 
of earth, each capped by a boulder of 
rock, which has protected the shaft 
from erosion by rain. These ' Pyra^ 
mides d' Useigne ' are probably the 
best known examples of their kind, 
but similar pillar's occur in other parts 
of the Alps, especially in Dauphine, 
near Molines, and in the Fournel 
gorge, near Argentiere and La Bessee. 
Some way beyond Useigne the road 
crosses to the r. bank of the Borgne, 
which is reached a little below St. 



Martin (1,387 m., 4,551 ft), the 
mother church of the valley. It con- 
tinues to mount along that bank for 
some distance, till it suddenly emerges 
on the broad, green, and nearly level 
stretch of valley in the midst of which 
( 1 5f m. from Sion) is the hamlet of 
Evolena (1,378 m., 4,521 ft.) The 
contrast between this peaceful dale 
and the singularly desolate region 
through which the road has passed 
before gaining it is very great. 

The situation of Evolena is not to 
be compared with that of many other 
mountain resorts, but it is a pleasant 
stopping place for travellers who do 
not wish to climb, and for climbers 
driven down from Arolla or Ferpecle 
by bad weather. 

From Evolena itself the most in- 
teresting climb is the ascent of the 
Point de Vouasson (3,496 m. , 11,470 
ft. ), on the S. W. , a very easy snow ex- 
pedition, rewarded by a very fine view. 
It takes 5 hrs. , and the way lies through 
the Merdesson glen, over the Vouasson 
gl., and up the N.E. face of the 
peak. There is an easy descent on 
the S. to the neighourhood of the 
Col de Darbonneire, by which 
Arolla can be gained in 2§ hrs. from 
the top, so that a climber can take 
this peak on his way from Evolena 
to Arolla or vice versa (see Rte. B. 2). 
Other excursions are the Sasseneire, 
3,259 m., 10,693^ ft. (5 hrs.), the 
Couronne de Bre'onna, 3,164 m., 
10,381 ft. (4 hrs.), both on the E. 
side of the valley, and the Pic 
oVArzinol, 3,001 m., 9,846ft. (4 hrs.), 
on the W. side of the glen. 



Route B. 

EVOLENA TO AROLLA. EXCURSIONS 
AND ASCENTS FROM AROLLA. 

If the weather be favourable, the 
mountaineer will soon quit Evolena 
for the head of one or other of the 
two glens into which the Val 



460 



PENNINE ALPS. § 19. 



EVOLENA DISTRICT 



d'Herens divides at Hauderes, about 
I hr. S. of Evolena. The glen to the 
S.E. is the Ferpecle glen (described in 
Rte. H), through which lies the route 
to Zermatt over the Col d'Herens. 
That to the S.W. leads to Arolla, 
now a favourite resort of climbers. 

The char road follows the r. bank 
of the Borgne to Hauderes, beyond 
which it becomes a mule track, and 
crosses to the 1. bank of the stream 
flowing from the Ferpecle glen. 
(There is a short cut by a path which 
branches off before reaching Hauderes, 
turns at right angles, crosses to the 1. 
bank of the stream flowing from the 
Arolla glen, and then passes through 
fields to join the ordinary mule path 
soon after it has crossed the Arolla 
stream.) It then bears to the W. 
(r. ), and crosses to the 1. bank 
of the Arolla stream and henceforth 
follows that bank, amid scenery 
constantly increasing in wild and 
savage grandeur. The Combe d'Arolla 
(so called from the local name 
for the Pinus Centura, which is 
common in this part of the Pennine 
range) is a narrow glen lying between 
the rugged range of the Grandes 
Dents on the E. and the less 
striking and much less visible range 
on the W. (wherein the Aiguill- 
es Rouges d'Arolla are the principal 
feature) which separates the Combe 
d'Arolla from the Heremence valley. 
Rather more than half-way between 
Hauderes and Arolla is the little 
hamlet of Satarma, overhung by the 
quaint Dent de Satarma. Through 
the glen down which runs the stream 
forming the waterfall the Aiguilles 
Rouges can be seen, but that is the 
only glimpse of these pinnacles gained 
on the way up to Arolla. 

£J us t beyond the hamlet of Satarma 
and before crossing over the knoll 
which closes on the S. the Satarma 
plateau, a path branches off to the 
right — this is the direct way to the 
Kurhaus. jj 

The highest Arolla chalets lie at 
a height of 2,003 m - (6,572 ft.) 
A little below them is the old inn, 



the Hotel du Mont Collon, 1,962 m., 
6,437 ft. (3 hrs. from Evolena.) 
The new inn, the Kurhaus d'Arolla 
(opened in 1897), is above the chalets, 
and about 300 ft. above the old inn, 
so that 10 min. more must be allowed 
for any excursions made thence save 
on this side of the valley, which are, 
of course, 10 min. shorter when taken 
from the new inn. A path to it 
branches off before the chalets are 
reached. The new inn lies hidden in 
woods, and near it is a little artificial 
lake. 

Though at the head of the valley, 
between the inns and the glacier, 
there is a huge waste of stones and 
moraine, the view of the Mont Collon 
and of the Pigne d'Arolla makes the 
scenery grand rather than desolate, 
despite the fact that the former is but 
a truncated cone and the latter little 
more than a shapeless mass. The 
woods near the hotels afford relief to 
the eye, while the bold ridge on the 
E. adds much to the striking Alpine 
character of the scenery. In the neigh- 
bourhood of Arolla there are a great 
variety of walks, easy climbs, and 
' grandes courses, 5 so that the young 
mountaineer will find plenty of ex- 
peditions whereon he can gain practice 
and experience. Ffe should not fail 
to consult the MS. ' Guide d'Arolla,' 
by Mr. Walter Lagden (to be found 
in the Kurhaus), which contains full 
details of all the excursions, great 
and small, around Arolla, of which 
an outline only can be given here, for 
lack of space. 

1. Among the Walks the Arolla 
Glacier (J hr. from the old inn, 5 min. 
more from the new one) claims the 
first place, since when it is free from 
. snow it may be safely explored, 
without a guide, as far as the foot of 
the Mont Collon. There was for- 
merly a fine tunnel nearly \ m. from 
the lower end of the gl. , but its roof 
fell in in 1895. The well-marked dirt 
bands of the lower portion of the 
Arolla gl. attract the notice of every 
traveller. They are said to be con- 
fined to that bit of the gl. which 



ROUTE B. EXCURSIONS AND 



ASCENTS FROM AROLLA 461 



originates in the Vuibez icefall, and it 
has been suggested that they mark 
the yearly falls of ice, one to each 
year, the well-known differential 
motion of the ice giving them a curved 
form lower down. 

The Zigiorenove gl. (now rapidly 
advancing) deserves a visit on ac- 
count of the remarkable triple series 
of moraines on its 1. bank. The 
Piece gl. may best be reached ( if hr. ) 
by the track up the crest of the long 
and very conspicuous moraine on its 
1. bank, whence the traveller easily 
descends on to the stone-covered ice. 
The Pas de Chevres (§ 18. Rte. K), 
due W. of Arolla, is also worth a 
visit (2 hrs. ) 

The high pastures and chalets of 
Praz Gras (2,483 m., 8,147 ft.) may 
be gained in 1 hr. by a path which 
branches off from that to the Pas de 
Chevres, but care must be taken to 
mount sufficiently high, or the highest 
chalets may be missed. These are 
the chalets that should be visited, and 
lie at the E. foot of the Roussette. 
From the higher levels of these pas- 
tures the view of the Collon and the 
Grandes Dents is very fine. By con- 
tinuing from the chalets for -J hr. in a 
N.W. direction the little Ignes gl. 
may be visited. 

A very beautiful walk is that to the 
Lac Bleu (2,079 m -> 6,821 ft.) and 
the Cascade . des Ignes. The path 
down towards Evolena is followed to 
Satarma. Thence a track leads up 
in a N.W. direction to a grassy glade. 
Here the traveller should bear round 
to the W. , past a remarkable finger 
of rock (120 ft. high — the Dent de 
Satarma — accessible by a rough 
scramble of 10 minutes), to the 
lake (ij hr. from Arolla). In 
dry weather the colour is wonder- 
ful, but in time of rain it becomes 
greenish, owing to the turbid water 
of an irrigation stream. The Cas- 
cade lies less than \ hr. further on, 
at the head of the little glen de- 
scending to Satarma from the W. By 
means of a gully near the Cascade it 
is easy to ascend to the higher level 



of the Praz Gras pasturages, and so 
return to Arolla. 

Just above Satarma, close to a 
bridge over the Arolla stream, a track 
leads N.E. up to the Col de Zarmine^ 
or de Veisivi, 3,062 m., 10,046 ft. 
(3 J hrs. from Arolla.) A consider- 
able ascent by zigzags must be made 
till the stream from the Zarmine gl. is 
crossed to its r. bank, whence a rough 
walk gives access to the Col. The 
view of the steep cliffs that descend 
from the Grandes Dents towards 
Ferpecle is very striking. 

Mont Dolin (2,976m., 9,764 ft.) is 
best ascended (in 2^ hrs. from x\rolla) 
from the chalets on the way to the 
Pas de Chevres. The steep grass 
slopes of this little peak render nailed 
boots very desirable. 

2. Among the easier climbs, which 
can be made without guides by those 
who are accustomed to ordinary 
mountain scrambling, the following 
may be mentioned. The Roussette, 
3,261 m., 10,699 ft- ( 2 J hrs.), affords 
a fine view. The easiest, though 
least interesting, way up it is to round 
Mont Dolin on the W. , and to ascend 
N. over stones and loose rocks, till it 
is possible to mount to a stony gap 
between M. Gysa (3,115 m., 10,220 
ft.) and the desired summit. A 
better scramble is afforded by going 
past the Praz Gras chalets to the edge 
of the Ignes gl. It is then necessary 
to mount S.W. to a small snowfield 
just under, and W. of, the Roussette, 
whence the ascent is completed by 
climbing partly up the more northerly 
of two snow gullies, partly by the 
rocks on its N. side. The summit 
ridge is thus gained, a little to the N. 
of the cairn (2^-3 hrs. from Arolla). 
The ridges running from Mont Dolin 
to the Roussette, and from the Col de 
Riedmatten towards the fantastic little 
peak called Cassiorte, or Mont Rouge 
oV Arolla (3,302 m., 10,834ft.), afford 
scope for many climbs and scrambles. 

The Vuibez rocks may be ascended 
from the Piece gl. in 1 hr. , or 3^ hrs. 
from Arolla. Chamois are often seen 
on the cliffs which fall towards the 



462 



PENNINE ALPS. § 19. 



EVOLENA DISTRICT 



Arolla gl. One of the S.E. summits of 
the Zi7iareffien rocks may be gained 
directly from the moraine on the 1. 
bank of the Zigiorenove gl. The 
N.W. summit is best attacked on its S. 
side from the Seilon gl. Either climb 
should take about 4 hrs. from Arolla. 

The Grande Dent de Veisivi 
(3,425 in., 11,237 ft.) is a more am- 
bitious guideless climb than those 
hitherto mentioned, but it is not dim- 
cult, and takes about an hour from 
the Col de Zarmine, or hrs. from 
Arolla. For those accustomed to 
glaciers and the use of the rope the as- 
cent of the Pointe de Vouasson (3,496 
m., 11,470 ft. ) is much -recommended, 
the views on the way up, and from 
the summit, being very fine, and 
extending to the Mont Blanc range. 
The Praz Gras chalets must be reached 
and the snout of the Ignes gl. crossed, 
so as to gain the ridge between the 
Upper and Lower Glaciers des 
Aiguilles Rouges. This ridge is then 
mounted in a N.W. direction for a 
little way, and the higher of these two 
glaciers traversed to its N.W. corner. 
After ascending the rocks at this -cor- 
ner the route lies to the W. , and the 
summit is gained in from 4 to 4J hrs. 
from Arolla. As the peak may be 
climbed in 5 hrs. from Evolena by 
the Merdesson glen and Vouasson gl. 
(see Rte. A) it may be taken on the 
way from that village to Arolla, or 
vice versd. 

The Col de Co/Ion (Rte. D) may 
also be made the object of an excur- 
sion from Arolla (3 J hrs.), returning 
by the Cols de l'Eveque and de Piece. 
There are concealed crevasses on the 
upper portion of the otherwise easy gl. 
leading up to it, so that the rope should 
most certainly not be dispensed with. 
The excursion may be pleasantly pro- 
longed by crossing the Mont Brule, 
3,621 m. , 1 1,880 ft. (which commands 
a very fine view), from the Col de 
Collon (up in 1^ hr. ) to the S. Col du 
Mont Brule (§ hr. ) 

3. There are many higher climbs 
to be made from Arolla, but these re- 
quire guides, save in exceptional cases. 



The most interesting way of ascend- 
ing the Mont Collon (3,644 m., 11,956 
ft. ) is to mount from the Arolla gl. 
till near the gap between it and the 
Mitre de P Eve que (3,672 m., 12, 048 
ft.), and so reach the summit from the 
S. The descent should be made by 
the ordinary route (which takes 6 
hrs. up) down the W.N.W. arete to 
the Col de Chermontane, and thence 
to Arolla by the Col de Piece (§ 18, 
Rte. I). It has also been ascended 
by the N. arete, by the N. face, and 
by the E. rock face — in each case 
direct from the Arolla gl. (6 hrs.) 

From the gap just mentioned it is 
easy to gain the top of the Eveque, 
3,738 m., 12,264 ft- (the culmi- 
nating point of the Collon group), by 
rounding the Mitre on the W. The 
i usual route up this point from Arolla 
is to reach the Col de Collon (Rte. D) 
and the Col de l'Eveque (Rte. E), 
and then descend till it is possible to 
scramble up by rocks in 5 min. to the 
snow slopes on the N.W. face of 
the peak, by which the summit is 
reached. It can also be gained 
from the S.E. , or from the Col 
de l'Eveque direct in hrs. by 
the rocky S.W. ridge. If the last- 
named pass has been gained from the 
Arolla gl. , the return may be made 
by the Col de Chermontane and the 
Col de la Vuignette and the Col de 
Piece, and in this way, the very fine 
' Tour du Mont Collon ' will have 
been effected. 

The Pigne d' Arolla (3,801 m., 
12,471 ft.) has been ascended direct 
from Arolla by the very steep N. face. 
The usual route is to ascend easy 
snow slopes from the Col de Piece 
[\\ hr. , or 4J hrs. from Arolla). It 
is easy to return to Arolla in 2\ hrs. 
by the Seilon gl. and the Pas de 
Chevres. The panorama from the 
summit is magnificent. 

The Dent Perroc (3,679 m., 12,071 
ft. ) is accessible in 5-6 hrs. by its W. 
arete, the arete alone taking 3 hrs. 
The climb is very interesting, and 
the rocks good. 

The Aiguille de la Za (3,673 m., 



ROUTE B. EXCURSIONS AND ASCENTS FROM AROLLA 463 



12,051 ft. ) is usually climbed in 5hrs. 
by way of the N. Col de Bertol 
(Rte. C) and the steep rocks on the 
E. and S. faces of the peak. At the 
top there are some dangerously loose 
rocks. It has also been ascended 
direct from Arolla by the rocky W. 
face, and this route is now a very 
popular one. 

The highest summit (3,848 m., 
12,625 ft.) of the Dents des Boitque- 
tins is a very good and by no means 
easy climb. It is gained in 5§-6 hrs. 
from Arolla by way of the S. Col 
de Bertol, the rocks leading up from 
the E. to the gap N. of the peak, and 
the N. ridge. There are many other 
climbs in this ridge, as also in that 
of the Dents de Bertol (3,556 m., 
11,667 ft.), between the Bouquetins 
and the S. Col de Bertol. 

The last three named peaks can 
now be best reached from the new 
Club hut (3,400m., 1 1., 155 ft.) on the 
S. Col de Bertol. Hence the sum- 
mit .of the Dent Blanche (4,364 m., 
14,318 ft.) can, under favourable 
circumstances, be attained in 5-6 hrs. , 
the ordinary route (Rte. H) being 
joined at the foot of the S. arete. 

The Aiguilles Rouges cF Arolla., 
three sharp rocky points (the highest 
is 3,650 m., 11,976 ft.), lie to the 
N.W. of Arolla, and afford some of 
the best climbing in the district. The 
Central peak is the loftiest, and may 
be reached from the gap to its S., or 
direct from the E. (5 hrs.) The 
danger from loose stones, for which 
these summits have a great reputation, 
appears to be very slight, if a proper 
route be selected. 

The Mont Blanc de Seilon (3,871m., 
12,700 ft. ) may be climbed in 2 hrs. 
from either the Col de la Serpentine 
(§18. Rte. I. 3) or (better) from the 
Col de Seilon (§18. Rte. K) and the 
ridge traversed thence to the Ruinette 
(3,879m., 12,727 ft.) in 4 hrs. The 
latter peak is best climbed from 
Chanrion (§18. Rte. H), but if it is 
desired to take it on the way from 
Arolla to Chanrion the Col de Seilon 
should be crossed, and the ascent 



made from the Col de Lyrerose 
(§ 18. Rtes. H and K). An alternative 
route is by the Col de Breney to the 
gl. S. of the peak, which can also be 
gained from Arolla by the Col de 
Chermontane (§18. Rte. I. 1) and the 
Col des Portons. 

The passes from Arolla to the Val 
de Bagnes have been described in 
§ j 8. Rtes. I and K. It need to be 
only added here that the way by the 
Col de Seilon is the shortest, whether 
to Chanrion or to Mauvoisin, but that 
the route by the Col de Chermontane 
and the great Otemma gl. is, in the 
opinion of competent judges, by far 
the finer. The passes to the 
Heremence valley will be found in 
§18. Rte. L, those to Zermatt in 
§ 19. Rte. C, and those to the Val- 
pelline in § 19. Rte. D. 



Route C. 

AROLLA TO ZERMATT. 

The Arolla glen is cut off from the 
direct way to Zermatt down the 
Z'Mutt gl. by the great snow fields at 
the head of the Ferpecle branch of the 
Ilerens glen, so that a double pass 
must be crossed in order to attain that 
glacier. There are two main routes 
from Arolla to Zermatt, but for the 
reason just given it is possible in each 
case to make a descent from the first 
pass crossed into a third valley. 

1. By the Cols de Bertol and 
d'Herens. — This is the shortest v/ay 
from Arolla to Zermatt (9J hrs. ) The 
Col de Bertol was discovered in 1865 
by Messrs. Moore and H. Walker, 
who thus first crossed what has since 
become a most useful and frequented 
pass. From Arolla the route used to 
lie over the lower portion of the 
Arolla gl. , but a mule path has 
recently been made along its r. bank, 
above the moraine, and extends as far 



464 PENNINE ALPS. § 19. 



EVOLENA DISTRICT 



as the stony tract called PlandeBertol. 
The river is crossed about 8 minutes 
from the old Arolla inn. (When de- 
scending to Arolla it is better to take 
the old route over the gl. ) From the 
Plan two passes are seen to the N.E. 
The N. one is the N. Col de Bertol, 
arid is used for the ascent of the 
Aiguille de la Za (Rte. B). The S. 
Col de Bertol (11,200 ft.) is that 
crossed by a party bound for Zermatt. 
(Here is the new Club hut, 3,400 m., 
1 1 , 1 55 ft. ) It is gained from the Plan 
by a steep gl. and a steep snow slope 
(3^hrs. from Arolla), and gives access 
on the other side to the great neve 
field whence flow the Mont Mine and 
Ferpecle gls. (Ferpecle may be 
reached hence in 2 hrs. by turning 
both icefalls of the Mont Mine gl. by 
their 1. bank.) For Zermatt a S.E. 
course must be steered over these 
huge snow fields to the Col d' Her ens 
3,480 m. , 11,418 ft. (2 hrs.), whence 
Zermatt is reached (see Rte. H) in 
4 hrs. more. The detour up the 
Tete Blanche (3,750 m., 12,304 ft.), 
to the S.W. of the Col, costs only 
\ hr. extra, and is rewarded by a 
most glorious view. 

2. By the K. Col du Mont Brule a?id 
the Col de Valpelline (10J-11 hrs.) — 
From Arolla the route of the Col de 
Collon (Rte. D) is followed to the 
Za de Zan basin, at the head of the 
Arolla gl. It is then necessary to 
bear to the E., so as to reach by 
rocks (3^-4 hrs.) the more northerly 
of the two passes between the Mont 
Brule and the S. end of the Dents des 
Bouquetins ridge (the Col is just S. 
of the point marked 3,364 m. on the 
Italian map and 3,365 m. on the Sieg- 
fried map). A snow slope on the 
Italian side leads to the Upper Za de 
Zan gl. , bearing N. E. over which the 
Col de Valpelline (Rte. E) is reached 
in 2 hrs. from the first Col, and 
Zermatt in 4J— 5 hrs. more. Of course 
after joining the Col de Valpelline 
route the descent into the Valpelline 
is perfectly possible, but the most 
direct way from Arolla to that valley 
is over the Col de Collon, though the 



Col des Bouquetins or the S. Col 
du Mont Brule may also be taken 
(Rte. D). 



Route D. 

AROLLA TO THE VALPELLINE BY THE 
COL DE COLLON. 

This pass was traversed in 1842 by 
Principal Forbes, and his description 
first made it generally known to Eng- 
lish travellers. But it had long pre- 
viously been frequented by the 
natives, and is mentioned as far back 
as 1543 by Sebastian Munster (in 
his ' Cosmographia Universalis ') as 
' magnum nivosum montem qui major 
glacialis et Arolla vocatur, ' while it was 
described in some detail by P. A. 
Arnod in 169 1. The ascent from 
Arolla takes 3^ hrs. , and the descent 
to Praraye about 2 hrs. more. 

The ascent from Arolla to the pass 
is very striking. The great Arolla 
gl. makes two considerable bends in 
different directions (the first becom- 
ing convex to the W. ), so that it 
approaches the shape of the letter S. 
Round the lower curve it descends 
in an icefall from the S.E. , while at 
the same part of its course it receives 
from the S.W. the Vuibez gl. , form- 
ing a far grander icefall, which is 
broken in the middle by an island of 
rock (§18. Rte. I. 1). The lower 
portion of the Arolla gl. is easily 
traversed. To reach the upper por- 
tion it was formerly usual to turn the 
icefall by the smooth rocks on the r. 
bank, and this may sometimes be 
necessary even now, but the avalanche 
debris on the 1. bank under the Mont 
Collon should be avoided, as they 
are rather dangerous by reason of 
falling stones from that peak. It is 
generally easy, however, to walk by 
means of the medial moraine straight 
up the singular unbroken icefall 
itself. Above, there is not an ap- 



ROUTE D. AROLLA TO THE VALPELLINE 465 



proach to difficulty, and it is only 
necessary to round the foot of the 
Mont Collon (the cliffs of which are 
very fine and have been scaled from 
here) and of the Eveque (in the 
steep face of which there is a good 
echo, which has helped to guide 
parties surrounded by clouds and un- 
certain of their course) in order to 
advance rapidly towards the pass. 
When the writer (J. B. ) passed this 
way in September, 1853, his guide, a 
native of the Val d'Herens, told him 
a terrible tale of a party of villagers 
from Evolena, who were overtaken 
in 1 84 1 by a snowstorm on the upper 
portion of the Arolla gl. , and, at- 
tempting to return after failing to 
find the way, lost three of their num- 
ber in the snow. Principal Forbes 
and his guide found one of the bodies 
in 1842. On the same part of this 
gl. the writer in 1853 observed the 
fresh tracks of several wolves, ap- 
parently following those of some 
chamois. 

[At this point on the gl. the tra- 
veller is in full view of the extensive 
neve basin of Za de Zan, which 
mounts gently towards the S.E. 
and is enclosed by a ridge not 
very difficult of access on this side. 
Over this ridge two passes lead to the 
head of the Valpelline. The more 
northerly — which is the most used 
—is called the N. Col du Mont Brule, 
and lies between the points marked 
3,351 m. and 3,364 m. on the Italian 
map ; it is described in Rte. E. , below, 
for it is a link in the direct route 
from Chanrion to Zermatt. The 
S. Col du Mont Brule r lies just N.E. of 
the Mont Brule (3,621 m., 1 1,880 ft. ), 
and it is simply a variation of the 
Col de Collon. J 

The final snow ascent to the Col de 
Collon is sometimes crevassed, but 
often there are concealed crevasses, so 
that the rope should not be laid aside 
till the pass is actually reached. It is 
3,130 m. (10,270 ft.) in height, and is 
marked by a small iron cross, dated 
1754 and stuck into a cleft of the rocks 
on the W. The pass commands a 

I. 



wild scene of rock and snow field, but 
no distant view. This, however, 
may be gained by mounting in \ \ hr. 
by an easy snow ridge to the summit 
of the Mont Brule (3,621 m., 
11,880 ft.), on the E. 

As is usually the case in this dis- 
trict, the ice and snow on the Italian 
I side are far less extensive than those 
j on the Swiss side. The pass over- 
; looks the head of a small gl. , which 
descends S. into the Oren glen — a 
wild, dreary gorge, which joins the 
Valpelline at the Praraye chalets. 
It is sometimes possible to descend 
; all the way by this gl., taking due 
heed of concealed crevasses. The 
usual, and much surer, course is to 
cross the head of the gl. diagonally 
to the S.E., and then to descend by 
the rocks and screes on its 1. or S.E. 
bank. These are pretty steep, but 
are quite free from difficulty. On 
I reaching the valley below, whence 
the gl. seems to have retreated within 
comparatively recent years, the travel- 
ler will observe on the N. W. the small 
Oren gl. , over which lies the way by 
the pass of the same name (§18. 
Rte. H. 3) to Chanrion. The path 
to the Valpelline runs mainly down 
the 1. bank of the torrent to the 
chalets of Praraye (1,993 m -> 
6,539 ft-)? where rough quarters may 
be had. The way hence to Aosta is 
described in the next Rte. 



Route E. 

AOSTA TO ZERMATT BY THE COL DE 
VALPELLINE. ASCENT OF THE 
DENT D'HERENS. 

The Valpelline is a long, deep-cut 
trench which is exactly parallel to 
the valley from the Col Ferret to the 
Col delaSeigne(§ 16. Rtes. EandK), 
and is said to be about the same 
length, 18 m. It is traversed by the 
H H 



4 66 PENNINE ALPS. § 19. 



VALPELLINE DISTRICT 



main branch of the Buthier, which j 
flows from N.E. to S.W. , and unites 
at Ollomont with the stream from 
the Val d'Ollomont (§ 18. Rte. D), 
and under Gignod with the consider- 
able torrent descending from the 
Combe des Bosses and the Great St. 
Bernard (§ 18. Rtes. A and B). The 
scenery of the Valpelline is throughout 
of the first order, especially towards 
its head, and is worthy of compari- 
son with that of the exquisite valleys 
S. and E. of Monte Rosa, described 
in § 20. A tolerable inn at Praraye, 
at its head, is, however, still wanting 
to attract many strangers thither. 
For the quarters at Praraye are even 
now scarcely more than those offered 
by milk chalets in general. The cure 
at Bionaz receives visitors, and has 
recently built at Praraye a very small 
house for their accommodation, while 
in his absence the inhabitants of the 
village are willing to make strangers 
as comfortable as they can. There is 
a fair inn at the village of Valpelline, 
which is too low as a starting point 
for any ascents or passes near the 
head of the valley. 

A glance at the map suffices to 
show that the Valpelline is the only 
considerable valley of the Pennine 
Alps which does not run nearly due 
N. and S., or nearly due E. and W. 
It has the air of having been thrust 
in forcibly between its neighbours, and 
in particular of having prevented the 
St. Barthelemy glen, on the S.E. , from 
attaining the main watershed of the 
Alps, as it does itself. This position 
explains the existence of numerous 
passes leading from the Valpelline in 
various directions. Those giving 
access to Chanrion and Arolla on the 
N.W. and N. have been noticed in 
§ 18. Rte. H. and § 19. Rte. D. re- 
spectively, while those communicat- 
ing with the St. Barthelemy glen and 
the Valtournanche, on the S. E. and E. , 
will be found in Rtes. F and G. below. 
In this Rte. we have to deal only 
with the way leading through the 
entire length of the valley and over 
the Col de Valpelline, at its extreme 



head, to the Z'Mutt gl., and so to 
Zermatt. This Col was first crossed 
in i860 by Mr. F. W. Jacomb, with 
J. Kronig and Gabriel Maquignaz, 
and forms the easternmost link in the 
High-Level Route between Chamonix 
and Zermatt (§18. Introd. ) 

A good new char road runs from 
Aosta up the Buthier valley as far as 
the village of Valpelline (8m.) For 
three miles the route is the same as 
that to St. Remy, on the Great St. 
Bernard(§ 18. Rte. A). The Valpelline 
road then keeps to the N. , along the 
VV. or r. bank of the Buthier, for some 
distance, but finally crosses it to join 
the old road, which passes along the 

I. bank throughout. The torrent is 
recrossed, and that from the Ollo- 
mont glen traversed, before reaching 
the village of Valpelline (954 m. , 
3,130 ft.), which stands at the junction 
of the Val d'Ollomont with the Val- 
pelline proper. The situation is ex- 
tremely beautiful, but the village is 
discoloured by large copper works, 
connected with the mines at Ollomont. 
(For the passes through the Ollomont 
valley to Bourg St. Pierre and Chan- 
rion see § 18. Rtes. D and E.) The 
mule-track follows the r. bank of 
the Valpelline torrent (as the main 
branch of the Buthier is locally called) 
in a N.E. direction. The first village 
is Oyace, 1,367 m., 4,485 ft. (2 hrs. ), 
placed on a rock at a great height 
above the torrent, and at the S.E. 
base of Mont Morio?i (3,520 m. , 

II, 550 ft.) 1 J hr. further up the 
valley is Bionaz (1,600 m., 5,250 ft.), 
the second and last village in the 
Valpelline proper. 

[Hence the ascent of two fine peaks 
may be made, each being a rather 
long day — the Mont Clapier (3,357m,, 
11,014 ft.), on the N.W., in 7 \ hrs. 
by its face, and the Bee de Luseney 
(3,506 m., 11,503 ft.), on the E., in 
6 hrs. , by way of the Luseney glen 
and the snow pass at its head. The 
Bee oVEpicoun (3,527 m., 11,572 ft.) 
may be reached in 5-6 hrs. by way of 
the Ciardonnet gl. , the icefall being 
turned by its E. bank. For the 



ROUTE E. AOSTA TO ZERMATT 



467 



passes from Bionaz to Chanrion see 
§ 18. Rte H. and for those to the 
St. Barthelemy glen § 19. Rte. G.] 

The flora of the Valpelline well 
deserves more examination than it 
has yet received. Silene vallesia is 
common about Bionaz, and the warm 
slopes on the N.W. side of the valley 
seem to promise much variety. They 
should be visited in June or July. 

Above Bionaz the mule path mounts 
(always above the r. bank), by a 
tolerably continuous and gentle ascent, 
through scenery constantly increasing 
in grandeur, to the chalets of Praraye 
1,993 m -j ^5 539 ft- ( 2 nrs - fro m 
Bionaz), which stand just beyond the 
opening of the Combe d'Oren. This 
side glen (through which lead the Col 
d'Oren to Chanrion and the Col de 
Collon to Arolla, § 18. Rte. H. and 
§ 19. Rte. D) is, next to the Sassa 
glen (joining the main valley J hr. 
above Bionaz), the most considerable 
glen on the N.W. side of the valley ; 
on the S.E. side those of Vessona, 
Montagnaia, Livournea, and Cour- 
nera are the most important, though 
none of them are very large. 

(For the passes from Praraye to the 
Valtournanche and the St. Barthe- 
lemy glen see § 19. Rtes. F and G. ) 

The head of the Valpelline is 
closed by the very extensive Za de 
Zan gl., which occupies an upland 
valley, shut in between two nearly 
parallel ranges. That on the W. 
runs N. from the peaks S. of the 
Mont Brule to the Dents des Bou- 
quetins, where it bends E. to the 
snowy summit of the Tete Blanche, 
which marks the extreme N. point of 
the valley ; this range divides the 
Za de Zan gl. , first from the Combe 
d'Oren, and then successively from 
the uppermost snows of the Arolla, 
Mont Mine, and Ferpecle gls. The 
range on the E. side of the Za de 
Zan gl. runs at first S.E. from the 
Tete Blanche to the Dent d'Herens, 
separating the gl. we are describing 
from the Z'Mutt gl. , and then due S. , 
forming the limit between the Valpel- 
line and the Valtournanche. At the 



Mont Redessau (3,217 m., 10,555 ft.) 
this E. range splits into two ridges, 
which enclose between them the St. 
Barthelemy glen, described in Rte. G. 
below. 

About J hr. above Praraye the 
path crosses to the 1. bank of the 
torrent. Beyond are a little chapel and 
a solitary chalet (the last in the Valpe 1 - 
line), beside a little knoll, ci owned 
by the remains of a wooden cross. 
The view hence is even finer than 
that from Praraye, but the Za de Zan 
gl. , on the N. , is, though near at hand, 
concealed by a projecting buttress. 

j * Starting from this chalet, \ hr. takes 
the mountaineer across the pastures 

I and rough ground at the head of the 

I valley to the I. lateral moraine of the 
Za de Zan gl. On the W. slopes 
above is the cattle alp, one of the 
wildest to be found. The lower por- 
tion of the great Za de Zan gl. 
descends in an almost straight and 
tolerably level course from the N., 
bounded on the W. by the black 
precipices extending from the Mont 
Brule to the Dents des Bouquetins, 
whilst on the E. there stretches up a 
wilderness of snow slopes and rocks 
towards the Dent d'Herens, seamed 
by a great ice stream, up the S. 
moraine of which lies the way to the 
Dent d'Herens and the Tiefenmatten- 
joch ' (for which see below). ' This 
ice stream is of great breadth, and 
the medial moraine formed by the 
junction is strongly defined. Look- 
ing back, the Chdteau des Da?ues, 
3,489 m., 11,447 ft. (Rte. F), rises 
imposingly beyond the level gl. 5 
(Here the traveller bound for Arolla 
by the S. Col du Mont Brule (Rte. D) 
should have already left the Za de 
Zan gl. and ascended the grass 
slopes. ) ' At the end of 2 hrs. from 
taking to the gl. , the foot of the 
great icefall, which separates the 
Lower and Upper Za de Zan gls. , 
and apparently bars all passage in 
that direction, is reached. Here the 
mountaineer must leave the gl. and 
turn N.E. towards a gap in the ridge 

1 of rocks, marked 3, 29 1 m. on the Italian 
H h 2 



4 68 PENNINE ALPS. § 19. VALPELLINE DISTRICT 



map, which bounds the icefall on the 
E. After crossing the lateral 
moraine you climb up the steep 
slopes of scree, dotted with patches 
of rock, which afford fine specimens 
of Edelweiss. In an hour from the 
level lower gl. a big patch of neve is 
gained, passing up which and the 
short, but rotten, rocks above, the 
above-mentioned gap is attained in 
4/J-5 hrs. from Praraye. The moun- 
taineer now finds himself on the edge 
of the extensive neve of the Upper 
Za de Zan gl. , forming an undu- 
lating plateau, or basin, which falls 
away to the S.W. towards the ice- 
fall ' (F. W. J., revised). 

[Across the ridge between the Mont 
Brule and the Dents des Bouquetins 
two passes have been made, which it 
is most convenient to notice here. 
Both are now called Cols du Mont 
Brule. The S. Col lies just N.E. 
of the Mont Brule (3,621 m., 
11,880 ft.), and was discovered in 
1863 by Messrs. Blanford and 
Rowsell, who named it Col de Za de 
Zan. It is reached on the Arolla 
side by the Arolla gl., and easy snow 
slopes in 3 hrs. from the inns, but the 
descent by steep rocks is not easy, 
and leads to the lower portion of the 
Za de Zan gl. in 1 h. ; it is therefore 
really but a variation of the Col de 
Collon, and mainly visited by those 
bent on traversing the Mont Brule 
from one pass to the other, whether 
as an excursion from Arolla or on 
their way from Arolla to Praraye. 
The N. Col has far greater im- 
portance. It was first crossed in 
1862 by Sir G. Young, the Rev. 
C. H. Pilkington, and Mr. E. E. 
Bowen, who named it Col du Mont 
Brule. It lies between the points 
3,351 m. and 3,364 m. on the Italian 
map. and S. of that marked 3,365 m. 
on the Siegfried map. On the Arolla 
side it is reached by the Arolla gl. , a 
snow slope, and some easy rocks in 3 
hrs. from the inns, while the descent on 
the E. side lies over easy snow to the 
Upper Z3. de Zan gl. By crossing 
this, keeping above the great Za de 



Zan icefall, the Col de Valpelline 
route is joined high up and that pass 
attained in 2 hrs. from the N. Col du 
Mont Brule. The importance of the 
N. Col lies in the fact that it enables 
a party of good walkers — under 
favourable conditions of weather and 
snow — to pass from Zermatt to 
Chanrion in a single day of no exces- 
sive length. As was briefly noted in 
the Introduction to § 18 and at 
the end of § 18. Rte. H. the exact 
times and route are as follows. In 
1863 the first party to accomplish this 
feat, Messrs. E. N. Buxton and 
K. E. Digby, went from the Z'Mutt 
chalets, above Zermatt, to the Cher- 
montane huts in rather more than 
10 hrs.' actual walking. In 1876 
Mr. Girdlestone's party, without 
guides, went from Zermatt itself to 
Chanrion in I2§hrs.' walking. Pro- 
bably less time would be required to 
make the route in the opposite direc- 
tion. The way from Chanrion lies 
up the Otemma gl. by the Col 
d'Oren route (§ 18. Rte. H. 3) till not 
j very far from that pass. It is then 
I necessary to bear due E. , so as to cross 
! a broad, snowy opening marked 3,300 
m. on the Siegfried map, and situated 
S. of the Petit Mont Collon; this 
Col might be called, for the sake of 
I clearness, the Col du Petit Mont 
j Collon. By this pass the head of the 
J Mont Collon gl. is gained, and 
traversed in order to reach the Col de 
PEvique (3,393 m., 11,132 ft.) — 
originally called Col d' Arolla — 
whence a small lateral gl. leads down 
to the head of the Arolla gl. , not far 
from the Col de Collon. A further 
traverse across this gl. , in a slightly 
N.E. direction, brings the traveller 
to the N. Col du Mont Brule, 
whence the Col de Valpelline is 
gained, as mentioned above. It is 
obvious that an expedition lying for 
so great a distance at so high a level, 
and almost altogether over neve, will 
be found practicable only under un- 
usually favourable circumstances. It 
is possible to go along the ridge from 
the N. Col to the S. Col in 1 nr., and 



ROUTE E. AOSTA TO ZERMATT 



469 



it is worth while pointing out that the 
hump 3,364 m. of the Italian map, to 
the N. of the N. Col, is certainly higher 
than that between the two Cols, 
which the same map puts at 3,377 m. 

This is probably the best place 
in which to notice yet another 
pass which also leads to the basin 
of the Upper Za de Zan gl., and 
which has caused great confu- 
sion—the Col des Bouquetins. It 
lies between the Dents des Bou- 
quetins on the W. and the Tete 
Blanche on the E., and connects the 
great snow fields feeding the Mont 
Mine and Ferpecle gls. with the 
Upper Za de Zan gl. The Siegfried 
and Italian maps both mark it as 
lying close under the E. face of the 
N. bit of the Dents des Bouquetins 
ridge. On the N. side it is reached 
over rolling snow fields, easily gained 
from Arolla or Ferpecle by bearing 
respectively S.E. or S.W. from the 
routes of the S. Col de Bertol 
(Rte. C) or of the Col d'Herens 
( Rte. H ). When the broad depression 
of the Col 3,418 m. (11,214 ft.) comes 
in sight, it is best to keep level along 
the slopes of the Tete Blanche, as the 
actual point at which the ridge is 
passed is the last bit of rock seen 
to the E. of and about 200 ft. above 
the top of the icefall. On the S. 
side there is a great and impractica- 
ble icefall of about 200 ft. in height, 
which can, however, be easily turned 
by rocks or debris on its 1. or E. 
side. The traveller thus attains the 
uppermost snowy basin of the Upper 
Za de Zan gl. , and by traversing that 
basin to the E. soon joins the route 
to the Col de Valpelline, at theN.E. 
corner of that basin. The Col des 
Bouquetins, therefore, has scarcely a 
separate existence — at any rate a 
useful existence — of its own ; it simply 
combines bits of the routes of the S. 
Col de Bertol, the Col d'Herens, 
and the Col de Valpelline, being 
merely a cross route from one of 
these to the others. Messrs. W. E. 
Hall and K. E. Digby, who in 1862 
first crossed this pass, made an un- 



necessary detour over a high snowy 
plateau N.W. of the Tete Blanche, 
thus keeping too far to the E. , 
though descending ultimately to the 
snowy basin of the Upper Za de 
Zan gl.J 

To return from this long digression 
relating to some very intricate pro- 
blems of Alpine history and topo- 
graphy. On the farther, or N.E., 
side of the snowy basin of the Za de 
Zan gl. is the Col de Valpelline, as 
yet unseen. Crossing the neve in a 
N.E. direction a secondary gl. , broken 
up into seracs, descends on the r. 
hand. A rapid ascent up snow 
slopes leads the traveller round a 
projecting buttress on the S.E. ; the 
Col de Valpelline soon comes into 
sight, and not long after it is attained, 
in about an hour from the top of the 
rocks, or 5f-6 hrs. from Praraye. It 
I lies at a height of 3,562 m., 11,687 ft., 
j across the snowy ridge joining the 
j Tete Blanche (3,750 m., 12,304 ft.), 
j on the N.W., with the Tete de Val- 
pelline (3,813 m., 12,510 ft.), on the 
! S.E. 

[Either summit can be easily gained 
I in ^ hr. from the Col, and both com- 
I mand magnificent views, that from the 
Tete Blanche being perhaps the finer, 
though thence the Matterhorn hides 
Monte Rosa itself. The Tete Blanche 
is a snowy pyramid, lying between 
three glacier passes (Col de Valpelline, 
1 Col d'Herens, and Col de Bertol, 
from all of which it is accessible 
without the slightest difficulty) that 
intersect the immense snow fields 
whence the Z'Mutt, Ferpecle, Mont 
Mine, and Za de Zan gls. diverge at 
about equal angles. Owing to this 
central position in the vast snow and 
ice countiy round, there are few 
points so easily attainable which 
command so magnificent a scene. 
The view includes the Mont Blanc, 
Grand Combin, Arolla, Monte Rosa, 
and Bernese Oberland peaks. || 

After leaving the Col de Valpelline, 
half an hour's careful work over a 
' crevassed gl. (the crevasses are often 
I concealed by a covering of snow) is 



47o PENNINE ALPS. § 19. 



VALPELLINE DISTRICT 



required to join the route from the 
Col d'Herens, by which (Rte. H) the 
Stockje rocks are gained in J hr. , 
and Zermatt in about hrs. more, 
or from 9 to 10 hrs.' walking from 
Praraye. In the reverse direction 
6-7 hrs. up from Zermatt, and 3 j hrs. 
down to Praraye should be allowed 
by ordinary walkers. 

Ascent of the Dent d'Herens. — 
This fine peak (4,180 m., 13,715 ft.) 
was first attained in 1863 by Messrs. 
W. E. Hall, R. J. S. Macdonald, 
M. Woodmass, and F. C. Grove, with 
Melchior Anderegg, Peter Perren, 
and J. P. Cachat, from Praraye, by 
what is still the best route. The Col 
de Valpelline route is followed over 
the Lower Za de Zan gl. , but left in 
order to mount by the S. moraine of 
the tributary gl. flowing down N. of 
the Tete de Roese. A way must be 
found through the seracs to the upper 
basin of the Lower Za de Zan gl. 
(This neve basin may also be reached 
from Praraye by the Vieglia Alp, the 
Tete Bellaza, and the gl. E. of the 
Tete de Roese, but this involves a 
much longer traverse across the neve. ) 
From this high basin rocks must be 
climbed up the face of the peak to 
either its W. or S.W. arete (or the 
latter may be ascended from its foot, 
falling stones being thus avoided), by 
which the summit is gained in 1^- hr. 
from the neve, or 7 hrs. from Praraye. 

The foot of the S.W. arete is not 
very far from the Col des Grdftdes 
Murailles (3,869 m., 12,694 ft.), by 
means of which the Dent d'Herens 
may be ascended in 8-9 hrs. from 
Breuil (§ 20. Rte. B). From the Za de 
Zan neve the Punt a Margherita 
(3,877 m., 12,720 ft. )— the N. summit 
of the Grandes Murailles ridge, to the 
S. of the Col of that name — can be 
climbed in 2\ hrs. 

In 1 87 1 Messrs. A. W. Moore and 
H. Walker made a new pass from 
Zermatt to the Valpelline, the Tiefen- 
mattenjoch (3,593 m., 11,788 ft.), the 
Swiss side of which is, however, very 
dangerous, as the final slope is a very 
steep icefall, and is constantly raked 



by falling stones. The descent across 
a rock buttress on the 1. to the Za de 
Zan neve is perfectly easy. The 
Dent d'Herens can be climbed direct 
from the pass by following the W. 
arete throughout its entire length, or 
on reaching the Za de Zan neve it is 
easy to bear E. so as to join the 
usual route from Praraye up the peak. 



Route F. 

PRARAYE TO THE VALTOURNANCHE 
BY THE COL DE VALCOURNERA. 

The range which separates the 
Valpelline from the Valtournanche is, 
perhaps, the most important and ex- 
tensive of the lateral ridges which 
run in a S. direction from the main 
watershed of the Pennine Alps. It 
starts from the Dent d'Herens and 
rises in a number of high summits, 
the altitude of which diminishes in a 
remarkably uniform manner. Its W. 
slope is in general covered by great 
glaciers, above which rises the final 
wall of peaks. The E. slope is ex- 
ceedingly precipitous, notwithstand- 
ing which most of the summits on 
the main ridge are usually ascended 
from Breuil (§ 20. Rte. B). Great 
confusion has hitherto prevailed as to 
the correct names and positions of 
the summits of this ridge. The fol- 
lowing summary is taken from the 
careful monograph by Mr. Alfred G. 
Topham, which was published in the 
17th vol. of the 'Alpine Journal.' 

Immediately S. of the Dent 
d'Herens is the broad, snowy de- 
pression of the Col des Grandes 
Murailles (3,869 m., 12,694 ft.) 
Next comes the peak of which the 
N. end is marked 3,877 m. (12,720 
ft.) on the Italian map, and the S. 
end 3,771 m. (12,373 ft.); the N. 
point is now known as the Punta 
Margherita, and the two together are 



ROUTE F. PARAYE TO 



THE VALTOURNANCHE 471 



called the Grandes Murailles. Then 
comes the Pointe des Gors, or Punta 
Gastaldi, 3,855 m. (12,648 ft.), be- 
yond which is the Col des Cors (c. 
3,800 m., 12,468 ft.) Then we come 
to a sharp tooth, now called Punta Lioy 
(c. 4,000 m., 13,124 ft.), but un- 
marked on the Italian map, and first 
ascended in 1890. This is succeeded 
by the double-headed Jumeaux de 
Val Tournanche, or Gemelli, the N. 
point being specially called the Punta 
Giordano (3,873 m., 12,707 ft.) and 
theS. point Punta Sella (c. 3,860 m., 
12,665 ft-) Next in order is the true 
Bee de Gum, 3,805 m. , 12,484 ft., on 
the Italian map, which wrongly gives 
this name to the next peak to the S., 
rightly named Bee de Creton, 3,637 m. , 
11,933 ft- Between these two sum- 
mits is the great snow saddle of the 
Col Budden. S. of the true Bee de 
Creton rises the Tour de Creton 
(3.583 nr., 11,756 ft.), wrongly 
called Bee de Creton on the Italian 
map. Then come the Col de Creton 
(3,324 m., 10,906 ft.), the Mont 
Blanc de Creton, c. 3,420 m. , 
11,221 ft. (the local name for a low 
point, which is snow-covered on the 
W. side), and the fine snow-capped 
summit of the Chateau des Dames 
(3,489 m., 11,447 ft-) The S. ridge 
of this peak sinks to the Cot de Vof- 
rede (3,133 m. , 10,279 ft.), and rises 
to form the Mont Rouss (3,241 m. , 
10,633 ft.), both being on a spur of 
the main chain. The watershed runs 
S.W. from the Chateau des Dames, 
is traversed by the Col du Petit 
Glacier Bellaza (3,063 m. , 10,050 ft. ), 
and then rises in a fine series of rocky 
peaks, the N. and highest summit of 
which (3,394 m., 11, 136 ft.) is locally 
called the Punta del Drago7ie. Be- 
yond them is the Punta di Fonta- 
nella (3,386 m., 11,109 ft.), climbed 
as far back as 1864 by Dr. A. Balt- 
zer, and then the ridge sinks to the 
best known pass across it, the Col de 
Valcournera (3,147 m. , 10,325 ft.) 
South of this pass is a long, sharp 
ridge, as yet without a name, and at 
its S. extremity the Dome de Cian 



(3,355 m., 11,008 ft.) The Col de 
Cian (c. 3,170 m. , 10,401 ft.) sepa- 
rates this summit from the Pointe de 
Cian (3,321 m., 10,896 ft.), which 
throws out a buttress to the E. , ovei 
which leads the Col de Fort, E. 
of which is the Bee de Sale (2,774 m - 5 
9,101 ft., or 2,685 m -j 8,809 ft.) 
From the Pointe de Cian the water- 
shed runs nearly due W. towards the 
Bee de Luseney. Just S.W. of the 
Pointe de Cian is the small rocky 
tooth now called Pointe de Chavan- 
cour (3,195 m., 10,483 ft.), and 
beyond the Col de Chavancour (e. 
2,970 m., 9,744 ft.), leading from 
the Chavancour huts, at the head of 
the Torgnon basin of the Valtour- 
nanche, to the Cournera glen. The 
peak W. of this pass is rightly called 
M. Redessau on the Italian map. It 
has two points (3,217 m., 10,555 ft., 
and 3,230 m., 10,598 ft.) The latter 
is on a side spur to the N. , but from 
the former the watershed now runs 
between the St. Barthelemy glen and 
the Valtournanche, the only high 
summit on it being the Cima Bianca 
(3,010 m., 9,876 ft.) The Col de 
Livournea (2,851 m. , 9,354 ft.) and 
the Cima di Livournea (3,207 m., 
10,522 ft.) lead on from the Mont 
Redessau to the Bee de Luseney (3,506 
m., 11,503 ft.), the loftiest sum- 
mit in the ridges S. of the Col de 
Valcournera. S. of the Bee are 
the Becca oVArbiera (3,442 in., 
11,293 ft.), the M. Montagnaia 
(3,060 m., 10,040 ft.), the Beeea del 
Merlo (3,245 m., 10,647 ft.), and the 
Mont Pisonet (3,215 m., 10,548 ft.), 
with the Becca d* Acquelon (3,324 m. , 
10,906 ft.), on a spur N.W. of the 
latter point, the succession of peaks 
above 10,000 ft. soon coming to an 
end at the Mont Faroma (3,072 m., 
10,079 ft.) 

The ascents of the peaks last named 
are described in Rte. G. below, 
and those of the summits N. of the 
Chateau des Dames in §20. Rte. B. as 
they are generally made from Breuil. 
The St. Barthelemy passes also are 
described in Rte. G. below. Of the 



472 PENNINE ALPS. § 19. VALPELLINE DISTRICT 



others the Col des Grandes Murailles 
is of practical use only as affording 
a means of approaching the Dent 
d'Herens from Breuil, and is put in 
§ 20. Rte. B. The remainder of this 
Route, therefore, describes only the 
Col de Valcournera and the peaks in 
its immediate neighbourhood. 

The Col de Valcournera (3, 147 m. , 
10,325 ft. ) is a short, steep pass, with- 
out difficulty to the ordinary moun- 
taineer, and interesting by reason of 
the fine views it commands of the 
little-known range on the W. side of 
the Valpelline. The pass was known 
to hunters as far back as the last 
quarter of the seventeenth century. 

Starting from Praraye the traveller 
crosses the Valpelline torrent by a 
plank bridge, and then mounts by a 
track through pine forest to the first 
hut (visible from Praraye) in the 
Cournera glen. The path lies along 
a water channel on the r. side of that 
glen to the Ciardonay huts. Here 
the traveller must turn N.E., cross 
some screes, and then ascend mode- 1 
rately steep rocks and grass, above 
which large loose blocks and patches 
of snow lead up to a snow couloir, at 
the upper end of which the pass is 
gained (2J-3 hrs. from Praraye). The 
descent on the other side lies for 5 mini 
over a small glacier, below which, to 
the N. E. , is the small Dragone lake, at 
the head of the wild Fontanella glen, 
apparently closed in the direction of 
the Valtournanche by a ridge stretch- 
ing from N. to S. Following the 
stream from the lake down a gorge 
to the r., leading a little E. of S., 
and climbing down some rather steep 
rocks, the traveller soon reaches a 
track that leads into the short and 
nearly level upland valley of Fonta- 
nella. Some way below are the Cig- 
nana huts, whence a mule path winds 
N.E. round the mountain-side, and 
leads to Paquier (commonly called Val- 
tournanche), the chief hamlet in the 
Valtournanche (2 hrs. from the pass). 

[From the Col de Valcournera 
the Punt a di Fontanella (3,386 m., 
11,109 ft.), on the N.W., can be 



climbed in I J hr. by its S.E. ridge, 
but the highest summit of this group, 
the Punt a del Dragone (3,394 m. , 
1 1, 136 ft. ), is best ascended in 1^ hr. 
from the Col du Petit Glacier Bellaza, 
on the E., by the N.E. arete. The 
Dome de Clan (3,355 m., 11,008 ft.) 
is accessible in 1 hr. from the Col de 
Cian, between it and the Pointe de 
Cian ; the latter point is also attain- 
able in f hr. from that pass, or by 
the N.E. ridge from the Balanselmo 
gl. , on the N. The M. Redessau 
(3,217 m., 10,555 ft.) can be gained 
in f hr, from the Col de Chavancour 
(which is reached in 3 \ hrs. from 
Praraye), and the higher peak 
(3,230 m., 10,598 ft.) in 35 min. 
more by the steep rocks of its S. 
face, J 

If the traveller is bound from the 
Col de Valcournera to Breuil the 
shortest way is from the Fontanella 
plain (J hr. from the pass) to bear 
round E., avoiding unnecessary de- 
scents, and so gain the wide opening 
of the Col de Dza (2,442 m., 8,012 
ft. ), S< E. of the Mont Rouss, in f hr. 
Breuil is seen hence, and is gained 
in I \ hr. more by a faint track over 
grass slopes. A longer but much 
finer way is by the Col de Vofrede 
(3,133 m., 10,279 ft.), just S. of the 
Chateau des Dames, the ascent of 
which may be easily made en route. 
From the Dragone lake an easy 
ascent leads to that Col (1 hr. from 
the first pass). Thence the upper 
snows of the Vofrede glacier are de- 
scended without difficulty ; then snow 
and rocks on its r. bank, the moraine 
on the 1. bank, and a ravine below 
bring the traveller down to a point 
below the Bayettes huts, whence a 
bridge soon leads over to the 1. bank 
of the main stream in the Valtour- 
nanche. Flere the mule path is 
joined and followed up to Breuil 
(2 hrs. from the pass). From the 
upper snows of the Vofrede gl. 
the Chateau des Dames (3,489 m., 
11,447 ft. ) may be attained byway 
of the rocky and snowy S. arete 
(3 hrs.) The view from the summit 



ROUTE G. THROUGH THE 



VAL ST. BARTHELEMY 473 



is very extensive, including Mont 
Blanc, as well as the Combin group 
and the Arolla and Zermatt peaks. 
If it is wished to climb the peak on 
the way to the village of Valtour- 
nanche, it is best to ascend the steep 
rocks of its S.W. face, or to follow 
its easy S.W. rock arete from the 
Col du Petit Glacier Bellazd (ij hr. ) 
The last-named pass (3,063 m., 
10,050 ft.) is a variation of the Col 
de Valcournera, and is a shorter 
route from Praraye if the destination 
be Breuil or the Chateau des Dames. 



Route G. 

THROUGH THE VAL ST. BARTHE- 
LEMY TO THE VALPELLINE OR 
THE VALTOURNANCHE. 

About half-way between Aosta and 
Chatillon (7 \ miles from either place), 
near the village of Nus (§ 1 5. Rte. A), a 
mountain torrent descends from the N. 
to join the Dora Baltea. This stream 
rises in the Luseney lake (2,620 m., 
8,596 ft. ), and in its course of 12 miles 
drains the Val St. Barthelemy and 
its tributary glens of D'eche and Breva. 
This district has been hitherto very 
little known to travellers, but the 
recent excellent monograph on it, 
published by Signori Mondini and 
Canzio in the ' Bollettino del C. A. 

I. ' for 1894, should do much to attract 
attention to it. The valley of St. 
Barthelemy is very picturesque. It 
is enclosed between two ridges which 
split off from the watershed between 
the Valpelline and the Valtournanche 
at the peak of the M. Redessau 
(3,217 m., 10,555 ft.), thus forming 
as it were a fork. Of these two 
ridges that to the W. is by far the 
most important, for it contains the 
highest summits (of which the loftiest 
is the Bee de Luseney, 3,506 m., 

II, 503 ft.), its lower slopes ex- 



panding into green pastures, whereon 
are all the chief hamlets. This W. 
ridge is furrowed by two side glens, 
through which lead the easiest passes 
to the Valpelline : these give access 
to Oyace, while four other passes 
across the N. bit of this W. ridge 
bring the traveller to Bionaz, or even 
to Praraye. There are some easy 
passes across the E. ridge by which 
the Torgnon basin, in the Valtour- 
nanche, may be gained, the higher 
parts of that valley being reached by 
crossing buttresses. 

From Nus there are paths on either 
side of the valley, as far as La Pra 
(that on the r. bank crossing the Deche 
and Breva ravines), where they unite. 
The principal mule path runs along 
the 1. or E. bank of the glen. It 
mounts rapidly at first to the hamlet 
of Blavy ( 1 hr. ), then traverses a wide 
shelf of pasture and crosses in 1 J hr. 
to the r. bank, soon at a bifurcation 
zigzagging up a steep slope to the /. 
(by keeping to the r. at the fork La 
Pra is gained in I J hr. along the r. 
bank of the torrent), in order to gain 
Lignan, the main hamlet of the com- 
mune of St. Barthele77iy (1,628 m., 
5,341 ft. ), where is the church (3^- hrs. 
from Nus). \\ hr. further over fine 
pastures on the same side of the valley 
is the last hamlet, La Pra (1,812 m., 
5,945 ft.) Here the mule path ends. 
The chapel of Champ Plaisant stands 
on a promontory, f hr. higher up the 
valley, and 2 hrs. beyond, just below 
the lake of Luseney, are the highest 
huts, Crotes (2,403 m., 7,884 ft.), a 
set of half-subterranean hovels. They 
are conveniently situated for night 
quarters, but the traveller will pro- 
bably prefer to halt at the large Pre- 
terier huts, \ hr. below Crotes, or at 
the poor inn at St. Barthelemy itself. 

1. By the Col de St. Barthelemy 
or de Verdona to Oyace. — This is the 
most frequented of all the passes to 
the Valpelline, as it is the easiest 
and is traversed by a mule path. The 
path up the r. bank of the main 
valley is followed from Nus to the 
village of Ville de Nus {\\ hr.), and 



474 



PENNINE ALPS. § 19. 



VALPELLINE DISTRICT 



then bears N.W. up the Deche glen. 
This glen (like that of Breva) ends in 
a steep gorge, but its upper portion is 
occupied by pastures and many huts. 
The way mounts by these to the pass, 
c. 2,650 m., 8,695 ft- (3i nrs - bom 
Ville de Nus), which is also called 
the Col de Verdona. On the other 
side opens the Verdona glen, through 
which Oyace may be gained in 2 hrs. 
from the pass. 

2. By the Col de Yessona to Oyace. 
— This pass starts direct from the 
main hamlet of St. Barthelemy. The 
way lies N.W. over fine pastures to 
the Chaleby huts (ij hr. ), at the head 
of the Breva glen, whence a more 
rapid ascent leads in another hr. to 
the highest huts, named Champana- 
men. (These may be gained more 
directly from St. Barthelemy by way 
of the Fontaney huts in 2 hrs.) 
Hence a track over pastures and 
stones leads nearly due W. to the pass, 
2,794 m., 9,167 ft. (ihr. ), which com- 
mands a noble view, including Mont 
Blanc. (This may be extended by 
mounting the M. Faroma (3,072 m., 
10,079 ft. ), on the S.W., I hr.) A 
faint track leads down over great 
boulders and shifting slopes of stones 
to the highest huts in the Vessona 
glen (J hr. ), situated in a wild hollow. 
There is a path along the r. side of 
this glen, which makes a great bend 
to the r., and it is also possible to 
descend straight by a faint track (easy 
to lose) by the stream through a 
ravine, then amid gigantic larches, and 
huge fallen blocks, so as to gain the 
lower huts, La Vieille. These stand 
in a little green plain, formerly a lake 
basin, which is surrounded by an 
amphitheatre of rocks, those to the S. 
being jagged and very steep. The 
path soon crosses to the 1. bank of the 
torrent, and lies through a glen where- 
in soft turf and moss-grown rocks 
alternate with pine forest. Aquilegia 
alpina is here abundant. Further 
down the high ranges on the opposite 
side of the Valpelline are well seen, 
and also the village of Bionaz. Near 
the mouth of the glen the path turns 



W. , and descends steeply under larch 
trees to the savage gorge of the Val- 
pelline torrent. This is crossed by a 
stone bridge, bearing the date 1688 
(if hr. from the highest huts), whence 
a steep ascent leads in another \ hr. 
to Oyace. 

3. By the Col de Cunei to Bionaz. 
— On the Italian map this pass is 
called Col de Montagnaia, but this 
name properly belongs to another pass 
farther to the N. , described below. 

Not far from the head of the valley 
of St. Barthelemy, and nearly due W. 
of the Preterier huts, there nestles 
under the E. face of the Becca del 
Merlo a Sanctuary of considerable 
local renown, called Cunei (spelt 
Chiny on the Italian map). This 
consists of a church, dedicated to 
Notre Dame des Neiges, which was 
founded about 1650, and was rebuilt 
on a larger scale in 1869. Several 
rooms in the adjoining buildings serve 
to receive the priests who say mass 
here on August 5 annually, the 
inhabitants of the valley coming up 
in a solemn procession. It stands at 
a height of 2,656 m. (8,714 ft.), in a 
desolate, stony hollow, wherein grows 
a kind of juniper, locally known as 
■ cuneia,' which has given its name to 
the spot. The Sanctuary may be 
gained from the village of St. Barthe- 
lemy by several routes. The most 
picturesque and direct way is to 
mount N. over the fine Fontaney 
pastures to the pass of that name, 
2,563 m., 8,409 ft. (2^hrs. ), whence 
\ hr. suffices to reach the Sanctuary. 

[From the Sanctuary the Becca del 
Merlo (3,245 m., 10,647 ft.), on the 
W. , may be climbed in about 3 \ hrs. 
by way of the rocks on the N. side of 
the conspicuous gully which runs up 
the E. face of the peak ; the N. ridge 
is thus attained and followed, more 
or less, to the summit, the last bit 
being a rock tower. A shorter ascent 
is that of the M. Fisonet (3,215 m., 
10,548 ft.), on the S.W., which is 
made by way of a gully leading up to 
the N. ridge and then for \ hr. along 
that ridge itself, 2J hrs. in all. J 



ROUTE G. THROUGH THE VAL ST. BARTHELEMY 475 



To reach the Col de Cunei, it is 
necessary from the Sanctuary to follow 
a faint path in a N. direction, which 
gradually disappears before the travel- 
ler attains ( 1 fir. ) a point to the E. of 
and rather higher than the lowest de- 
pression in the ridge, this gap itself 
(2,952 m., 9,685 ft.) being accessible 
by steep gullies which there is no 
need to climb. (20 min. off on the 
N. E. is the easily attained M. Mon- 
tagnaia, 3,060 m., 10,040 ft.) Slopes 
of shifting stones lead down towards 
the Montagnaia glen, care being taken 
to leave on the r. the point marked 
2,773 m. on the Italian map, as there 
are precipices below it. The green 
basin in which stands the large Acqtie- 
lon hut is thus gained in 1 \ hr. from 
the pass. Hence a path leads along 
the r. side of the valley, becoming 
steeper as it approaches the Valpel- 
line, which is gained at the Puillaye 
hut in an hour from Acquelon. 
Bionaz is f hr. further dow?i the 
valley. 

4. By the Col de Montagnaia to 

Bionaz. — From St. Barthelemy the 
valley path is followed for 2\ hrs. to 
Champ Plaisant, whence a path leads 
N. W. up to the Freideron huts (ijhr.), 
which lie in a fine green basin dotted 
with tarns. A faint track runs slightly 
to the N. round a spur, and by steep 
grass and stone slopes leads N.W. 
to the narrow gap of the pass, 2,860 
m., 9,383 ft. (ii hr.) 

[Hence the ascent of the Becca 
d" Arbiera (3,442 m., 11,293 on 
the N. , may be made. It is necessary 
to skirt the lower and serrated bit 
of the S. arete by descending a little 
way on the Valpelline side of the pass, 
regaining the ridge in \ hr. from the 
Col, and clambering along it for 
\\ hr. more to the S. and lower sum- 
mit (3,400 m., 11,155 ft-)) composed 
of two horns. \ hr. along the ridge 
suffices to gain the higher N. summit, 
which commands a fine view. It is 
easy to descend by a short round to 
the N. to the depression marked 
2,850 m. (9,351 ft.) on the W. ridge, 
and so join the route of the Col de 



Cunei or of the Col de Montagnaia 
before reaching Acquelon. Either 
peak can be gained direct from the 
Preterier huts, at the head of the St. 
Barthelemy glen, by way of the gully 
leading up to the gap between them, 
3 hrs. 3 

From the Col a great slope of 
stones enables the traveller to join 
the route of the Col de Cunei, the 
Acquelon hut being attained in 1 \ hr. 
from the pass. 

5. By the Col de Luseney to Bionaz. 
— This pass starts from the Crotes 
huts, at the extreme head of the St. 
Barthelemy glen, 4^hrs. from Lignan. 
The way lies W. past the Luseney 
huts (20 min.), and S. of the lake of 
that name, over a stony plain, and 
then up a steep snow slope to the pass, 
c. 3,100 m., 10,171 ft. (2§ hrs.), 
which is a glacier pass just N.E. of 
the Bee de Luseney. 

[From it the Bee de Luseney 
(3,506 m., 11,503 ft.) can be as- 
cended in 1 \ hr. by way of the snowy 
N.E. arete and E. face. It can also 
be climbed direct from the Luseney 
huts by the rocky E. face. Mr. 
Adams- Reilly, who made the first 
ascent in 1866, climbed from the 
Arbiera glen by the W. and N. aretes 
to the N.E. ridge. An easier and 
shorter ascent from the Col is the 
Ci?na di Livourjiea (3,207 m. , 10,522 
ft.), on the E., which may be gained 
in f hr. But the Bee de Luseney is 
to be preferred, as it is itself a most 
beautiful pyramidal snow peak, and 
being the highest of this group com- 
mands the finest view. J 

To gain the Valpelline the glacier 
on the other side of the pass must be 
followed for \ hr. Then the traveller 
must bear sharply to the 1. in order 
to quit the glacier near a conspicuous 
rocky tower, as the great icefall is 
impassable. A stony ridge, gradu- 
ally becoming grassy, leads down to 
the Pra Dieu huts, whence a path 
runs through the Arbiera glen, past 
the huts of that name, to the Puillaye 
hut, in the Valpelline (2| hrs. from 
the pass), which is f hr. above Bionaz. 



476 



PENNINE ALPS. § 19. EVOLENA DISTRICT 



6. By the Col de Livournea to 1 

Praraye. — This is the most direct 
route from the St. Barthelemy glen to j 
the head of the Valpelline. The pass 
(2,851 m., 9,354 ft. ) is gained without j 
difficulty in about 1 hr. from the 
Crotes huts past those of Luseney. It j 
is locally called the Col de Luseney. 

[Hence the Cima di Livournea 
(3,207 m., 10,522 ft.) may be climbed 
in 3§ hrs. by its N.E. and E. ridges, 
but the ascent is much shorter (f hr. ) 
from the true Col de Luseney, no. 5. 
above. 3 

Some stones lead down in a few 
steps to the small Livournea glacier, 
which is easily crossed. Beyond, the | 
way lies through the Livournea glen I 
past the La Chaz huts and the Lei \ 
lake, the Valpelline being attained 
at the hamlet of La Nouva {2\ hrs. j 
from the pass), a short hour below 
Praraye. 

The passes to the Valtournanche j 

across the ridge forming the E. limit j 
of the St. Barthelemy glen are easier 
than those over the W. ridge. The \ 
Fenetre de Cia?i (c. 2,750 m. , 9,023 1 
ft.) is N. of the Cima Bianca (3,010 j 
m., 9,876 ft.), and leads from the 
Crotes huts to those of Chavancour, j 
in the Torgnon basin. (After crossing ' 
that pass the traveller bound for the 
village of Valtournanche will do well 
to mount N. to the Col de Chavan- 
cour, and thence traverse N.E. over 
a level neve plain to the Col de Cian, 
descending to the village by the glen 
coming from the Col de Valcournera. ) ! 
There are also two passes over the 
ridge S. of the Cima Bianca to the 1 
lower part of the Torgnon basin, 
whence the village of Valtournanche 
can be attained by way of the Col \ 
d'Ersa (2,255 m -> 7>399 ft-)> S, of 
the M. Ersa (2,769 m., 9,085 ft.) 

But the most frequented way from | 
the St. Barthelemy glen to the Val- 
tournanche is by the Col de Fenetre j 
(2,185 m -> 7,169 ft.), nearly due E. j 
of the La Pra huts, in the former 
valley, and a long way S. of the | 



Cima Bianca. It may be reached in 
\\ hr. from La Pra, and 1 hr. more is 
required for the descent to the hamlet 
of Torgnon (1,489 m., 4,885 ft.), 
whence a mule path leads down to 
the Valtournanche, gained (in I hr. ) 
at a point \ hr. above Chatillon. 



Route H. 

EVOLENA TO ZERMATT BY FERPECLE 
AND THE COL D'h£RENS. AS- 
CENTS OF THE DENT BLANCHE. 

In Rte, B we described the Arolla 
glen, the S.W. of the two glens into 
which the Herens valley splits at 
Hauderes, above Evolena. We must 
now proceed to describe the S.E. 
glen, or that of Ferpecle. At the head 
of the Ferpecle glen is found one of 
the most extensive snow fields in the 
Alps. The general form is that of an 
elbow, being defined by two sets of 
nearly parallel ridges. On the W. 
these snow fields are bounded by the 
ridge which stretches N. from the 
Dents des Bouquetins through the Aig. 
de la Za to the Grandes Dents. On the 
E. the limit is the lofty range which 
runs from the Wandrluh rock-wall, 
E. of the Col d'Herens, through the 
beautiful peak of the Dent Blanche, 
N. to the Grand Cornier and 
Couronne de Breonna. These two 
parallel ridges are about 4 or 5 miles 
from each other. Their S. ends are 
joined by a snowy ridge, which rises 
half-way in the snowy pyramid of the 
Tete Blanche (3,750m., 12,304ft.), 
the central point of this icy region, 
and consequently a panoramic summit 
of the first order. A ridge, at first 
scarcely perceptible, runs N. from the 
Tete Blanche to the rocky pro- 
montory of the Mont Mine, thus 
dividing these great snow fields into 
two parts. The ice stream flowing 
down to the W. of this ridge is called 



ROUTE H. EVOLENA TO ZERMATT 



477 



the Mont Mine gl. , while that to the 
E. is the Ferpecle gl. (the united 
streams bearing the latter name), 
both being fed from the same great 
upper plateau. Hence it is possible 
to gain this plateau by either of these 
icy arms, but the W. is more used by 
parties bound over the Col de Bertoi 
to Arolla, the E. one affording the 
most direct route over the Col 
d'Herens to Zermatt. 

From Evolena follow the char road 
for I hr. to Haude?'es, as for Arolla 
(Rte. B). The rough, stony mule 
track then bends S.E. , and mounts 
rather rapidly above the r. bank of 
the torrent past several groups of huts 
to (ij hr. ) those of Salay, near the 
foot of the Ferpecle gl. Here is the 
quaint little Ferpecle Inn (c. 1,800 
m. , 5,906 ft.), a pleasant sojourning 
place for several days, as there are a 
number of expeditions to be made 
from it. 

[The Col de Zannine or de Veisivi 
(3,062 m., 10,046 ft.) to Arolla 
can be crossed in 6 hrs. , it being 
best to keep on the rocks N.W. of 
the snow couloir running down to 
the Biegnette gl. Either the Grande 
Dent de Veisivi, 3,425 m., 11,237 ft. 
(1 hr. , quite easy), or the Petite Dent, 
3,189 m., 10,463 ft. (the harder), may 
be climbed by its ridge from the Col 
(2 hrs. ) The Dent Perroc (3,679 m. , 
12,071 ft.) may be ascended by its 
E. arete, this being a fine climb 
(? hrs. ) The W. Point e de Monrti 
(3,585 m., 11,762 ft.) is accessible 
easily by its S.W. ridge, but the 
rather lower E. peak (3,570 m., 
11,713 ft.) commands a better view, 
though it is to be reached only by the 
N.E. or N.W. ridges (5 hrs. in each 
case). The Dent des Rosses (3,620 
m. , 11,877 ft.) can be reached in 
7 hrs. by the Rosses gl. and the S. 
ridge, and the Point e de Bricolla, 
3,663 m., 12,018 ft. (5 hrs. from the 
inn), in a few minutes from the pass 
of that name, to the S.E. , for which 
and other passes in the direction of 
Zinal see Rte. K. below. The 
Grand Cornier (3,969 m., 13,022 ft.) 



is best reached by the great W. butt- 
ress between the Bricolla and Dent 
Blanche gls. of the Siegfried map, 
which is followed to its junction with 
the main S. arete ; it is necessary to 
keep along the W. base of the teeth 
on this arete, and so climb up to the 
summit (6 or 7 hrs. from Ferpecle). 
It is possible to follow the entire 
very jagged S. arete from the Col du 
Grand Cornier to the summit, but 
this is very long. Another excursion 
from Ferpecle is to go, by the route 
to be described in detail presently, to 
the top of the Col d'Herens, and 
back, perhaps ascending the Tete 
Blanche if the weather is favourable, 
as the view thence is very grand 
I indeed.]] 

From Ferpecle it is possible to 
reach the upper snow fields near the 
Col d'Herens in 3J hrs. by way of 
the Mont Mine gl. , turning both 
icefalls by the easy moraine on the 1. 
bank of that gl. But (as pointed out 
above) this route is best suited for 
those bound for the Aig. de la Za 
and Arolla by the Col de Bertoi. 
Travellers wishing to reach Zermatt 
direct will find the Ferpecle gl. their 
: shortest route. 

The Col d'Herens is possibly a very 
I ancient pass, for there is certain evi- 
I dence of an ancient annual procession 
i from Zermatt to Sion (changed into 
I one to Tasch in 1666), and though it 
I cannot be distinctly proved that it 
went thither over the glaciers, yet 
there are other bits of evidence in 
favour of the existence in the upper 
Val d'Herens of a Teutonic colony 
from Zermatt, dating back certainly 
to 1455, an d perhaps even to the four- 
teenth century. But the first known 
passage by a traveller was that by 
Principal Forbes, in 1842. It is a 
very easy glacier pass. From Fer- 
pecle the traveller must follow a 
path above the r. bank of the 
Ferpecle gl., which mounts rapidly 
past (if hr. ) the Bricolla chalets, 
where there was formerly a small inn, 
burnt down in 1864. Hence the r. 
bank and the Manzette moraine are 



478 PENNINE ALPS. § 19. EVOLENA DISTRICT 



followed for 50 min. more to the ice, 
which is gained at a point close to 
and W. of the Roc Noir. Here the 
proper way crosses the N. bit of the 
gl. , passes round above the icefall of 
the main Ferpecle gl., and then in- 
clines S., keeping to the E. of the 
rocky island called Mottarotta, over 
the great gently inclined snow fields 
to the pass, 3,480 m., 11,418 ft. 
(2 to 3 hrs., according to the state of 
the snow.) Some grand objects are 
visible, of which the Matterhom is 
pre-eminent, but, in spite of its great 
height, the pass does not command a 
very wide panorama. A most won- 
derful view, extending to the Grand 
Paradis group, may, however, be ob- 
tained from the snowy pyramidal I 
peak to the S.W. of the pass, the 
Tete Blanche (3,750 m. , 12,304 ft.), 
the very easy ascent of which over j 
snow slopes takes only f hr. from the 
Col, and should not be omitted by 
any one on the pass in fine weather. 

'[From the Col d'Herens the Dent \ 
Blanche (4,364m., 14,318 ft.) is well 
seen. This is often one of the most : 
difficult and dangerous mountains in 
the Alps, but in some years the con- 
ditions are extremely favourable. It 
was first ascended in 1862 by Messrs. 
T. S. Kennedy and W. Wigram, 
with J. B. Croz as leader, by way of 
the S.W. face and S. arete, the start 
having been made from the Bricolla ! 
chalets, from which the expedition, ! 
including a few short halts, took 16 
hrs. Mr. Finlaison in 1864 struck 
out a new route straight up the W. 1 
face, but this is very difficult and 
dangerous, by reason of falling stones. , 
The usual starting point (since the 
destruction of the Stockje hut. on the 
Zermatt side of the Col d'Herens) 
is a very good bivouac (a cave under 
big boulders) on the Schonbiihl, 
nearly opposite the Stockje. Thence 
the route keeps up the 1. moraine 
of the Schonbuhl gl. till the neve 
above the icefall is passed. The 
neve is then crossed, and a big snow ; 
and rock couloir leads up to the snow 
at the furthest N. end of the Wand- | 



fluh wall, where the S. arete of the 

mountain touches the snow. This 
couloir cuts diagonally across the face 
somewhere below the point marked 
3,912 m. Overhanging it is a sort 
of snow and ice fall (at the top of 
the Wandfluh wall). It is a most 
dangerous mode of approach, but is 
much shorter than from the Stockje. 
The ascent of the peak is then made 
by the S. arete or its W. face, just 
below the crest of that arete. Unless 
the rocks are iced there is no very 
great difficulty on this route, though 
(save in exceptional years) none but 
good climbers should attempt the 
ascent. 6-7 hrs. are required from the 
bivouacking place on the Schonbiihl, 
or 5-6 hrs. from the new Club hut on 
the S. Col de Bertol, Rte. C. The W. 
and E. aretes have been forced by 
first-rate parties, as also the S.E. 
face, but none of these routes can 
be recommended for general adop- 
tion. 3 

The Wandfluh rock wall shows a 
bold front of rock on its S.E. side, 
but is lowest near the Col, where 
there are only about 100 ft. of easy but 
rotten rocks. These are sometimes 
overhung by a small cornice, which 
must be cut through. The most 
westerly arm of the Z'Mutt gl. 
(called Stock gl.) is thus gained. 
This is always very much crevassed, 
so that some time may be spent in 
gaining the W. end of the Stockje 
buttress. This is descended by a 
path in a S.E. direction to the edge 
of the lateral Tiefenmatten gl. (i-| 
hr. from the Col), where a Club hut 
stood for some years, till it was swept 
away by an avalanche. It is by a 
path on the crest of the moraine of 
the Tiefenmatten gl. that the traveller 
gains the main stream of the great 
Z'Mutt gl. This huge ice stream, 
highly interesting to the geologist, 
from the varied rocks that are found 
in its moraines, borne down from the 
precipices of the Matterhorn, Dent 
d'Herens, and Dent Blanche, &c, 
is unpleasing to the eye and tiresome 
to the feet, from the extraordinary 



ROUTE I. SIERRE TO ZERMATT 



479 



quantity of debris that covers its 
level portions, not merely accumu- 
lated in moraines, but strewn over the 
whole surface. It is with satisfaction 
that the weary traveller, after passing 
down its centre, finally leaves it on 
the r. bank just before the ice be- 
comes quite covered with stones, and 
close to the two highest trees on this 
side of the valley. A path leads hence 
to the Staffel Alp Inn (before reaching 
it a mule path leads up in I hr. to the 
Schwarzsee Hotel), from which a 
mule path, one of the regular tracks 
of the Zermatt tourist, leads down 
the r. bank of the Z'Mutt torrent to 
its junction with the path from the St. 
Theodule (§ 20. Rte. B), by which 
Zermatt is gained in an hour more 
{4-5 hrs. from the pass). Time is 
lost by leaving the Z'Mutt gl. on its /. 
bank, but it is a pleasant variation on 
the ordinary route to cross (some way 
below the Staffel huts) by a bridge 
high above the torrent to the hamlet 
of Z'Mutt, on its 1. bank, and to follow 
the path along that bank to Zermatt. 



Route I. 

SIERRE TO ZERMATT BY THE VAL 
d'anniviers. ASCENTS FROM 
ZINAL. 

Hrs. 

Niouc 1-2 

Vissoye . . . i£ 

Ayer 1 

Zinal ah 

Carriage road to Vissoye : mule path 

thence to Zinal. Zinal to Zermatt : see 

the passes enumerated below. 

Very few valleys in the Alps can 
boast of such beautiful and varied 
scenery as the Val d'Anniviers 
(Germ. Einfisckthal), or offer passes 
so singular and so grand as those 
leading thence to Zermatt. A good 
carriage road has been carried as far 



as Vissoye, at which village, as well 
as at St. Luc, Chandolin, Grimentz, 
and Zinal, good mountain inns have 
now been opened, as well as the H. 
Weisshorn, at Tetafayaz, above St. 
Luc. 

The main road up the Rhone 
valley crosses the Rhone by a bridge 
about f m. E. of Sierre, and soon 
after a branch char road bears r. 
(S.W. ) gradually up along the moun- 
tain-side till, on nearing the gorge of 
Pontis, through which the Navigenze 
descends to join the Rhone, it mounts 
by zigzags above the r. bank to the 
village of Niozu (2 hrs. by carriage). 

[A pedestrian may save 1 hr. or so 
between Sierre and Niouc by turning 
to the r. just beyond the church at 
Sierre, following the telegraph posts, 
and then crossing the Rhone by an 
iron bridge to the village of Chippis, 
from the church of which a very steep 
path, always following the line of the 
telegraph posts, leads up to the high 
road, crossing its zigzags several times 
and ending just below Niouc, reached 
thus in I hr. from Sierre. J 

There are few finer defiles in the 
Alps than that through which the 
Navigenze has cut its way to join the 
Rhone. The ravine is in some parts 
reduced to a mere cleft, reminding 
the traveller of some of the more 
striking scenes in the gorge of the 
Via Mala. But little of this ravine 
is seen from the road which lies at a 
great height above the stream, and 
the new road, which in two or three 
places pierces the rock by short tun- 
nels, is far less picturesque, though 
also less laborious and shorter, than 
the old way. The scenery, even with 
this deduction, is extremely beautiful. 
The hamlet of Fang, lying in the 
midst of fine walnut trees, is seen 
below on the r. , and soon after there 
comes into view the church spire of 
the principal hamlet of the valley, 
Vissoye (1,221 m., 4,006 ft.) 

[5 min. before a saw mill (be- 
longing to Fang) a mule path leads 
up on the 1. in hr. to the high- 
perched village of at. Luc (1,643 m -> 



480 PENNINE ALPS. § 



19. ZINAL DISTRICT 



5,391 ft.), which may also be gained 
in 1 hr. by another steep mule path 
direct from Vissoye, or 3-J-4 hrs. from 
Sierre. This mountain village, which 
has been burnt several times, com- 
mands a fine view of the Val d'Anni- 
viers, as well as of the Matterhorn, 
seen over the depression of the Col 
Durand. The flora is extensive, but 
the slopes on which it stands are tree- 
less just here. The chief object of 
most visitors to St. Luc is the ascent 
of the N.W. peak (3,001 m., 9,846 
ft. ) of the Bella Tola (the highest and 
S.E. point is 3,028 m., 9,935 ft.) It 
may be observed as a general rule 
that all the detached summits lying 
between the great ranges of the Pen- 
nine and the Bernese Alps command 
panoramic views that amply reward 
an ascent, when made with favourable 
weather. That of the Bella Tola is 
now one of the most easily accessible, 
as the villagers have made a mule 
track by which the summit is gained 
in 3 hrs. from St. Luc. A good 
walker can return to St. Luc by de- 
scending to the Bella Tola gl. , E. of 
the peak, and then scrambling over 
the ridge between the peak and the 
Schwarzhorn. From that gl. it is 
easy to descend to Turtmann by the 
Meretschi and Asp Alps. Another 
interesting route by which St. Luc 
may be approached from the Rhone 
valley is by a torrent which joins that 
river opposite the town of Leuk, 
and leads up to the /// lake, lying 
under the Illhorn (2,724 m., 8,937 
ft.) This is a point commanding a 
fine view, and rising at the edge 
of the singular lllgraben, an extra- 
ordinary funnel-shaped hollow, about 
1,500 ft. deep. The ridge enclosing 
it on the Rhone valley side is too 
narrow and crumbling to be traversed, 
but the Illhorn is easily gained from 
the mule path leading from Susten 
or Turtmann to St. Luc, and the 
edge of the chasm can also be reached 
at a lower point. This path passes 
in great part through forest, and then 
crosses a depression between the Ill- 
horn and the Schwarzhorn, from 



which the descent may be made either 
S.W. to St. Luc or to Chandolin, 
further N. About 6f hrs. are re- 
quired from Susten to St. Luc, and 
5 in the reverse direction. J 

[2 hrs. S.E.ofVissoyebyamulepath 
through fine forests is the splendidly 
situated Hotel Weisshorn (2,345 m., 
7,694 ft.), which is 1 J hr. from St. 
Luc through another portion of the 
same great forest. Many rare Alpine 
plants are found near it, while it is a 
capital centre for many pleasant walks 
and easy excursions, amongst which the 
following may be mentioned. The 
little Lac de Tounot is I J hr. distant, 
while the Pte. Tounot (3,022 m., 
9,915 ft.), above it, is easily gained in 
2 hrs. from the inn ; I J hr. further 
to the S.E. is the Plumatt (3,084 m., 
10, 1 19 ft. ) The Bella Tola is acces- 
sible in 2} hrs., joining the zigzag 
path from St. Luc. Chandolin may 
be reached in 3 hrs. , keeping on the 
hill-side well above the woods. It is 
an agreeable excursion to go S. by a 
mule path over magnificent pastures, 
keeping high above the steep E. wall of 
the Val d'Anniviers, to the Lirec huts, 
whence a zigzag mule path leads down 
to Zinal, 3§ hrs. 3 

The stranger cannot fail to be struck 
by the large number of villages and 
scattered houses seen in the Val d'An - 
niviers near and above Vissoye. Even 
more than in the Val d'Herens the 
natives lead a nomadic life in summer, 
and each family has a number of 
dwellings, which sometimes exceeds 
that of the inmates. Fires have been 
particularly destructive here, and few 
villages have escaped. Evidence of 
the industry of the people is seen in 
the unusual number of water channels, 
often several miles in length, by 
which the bare mountain slopes have 
been made to burst into verdure. 

A mule track leads from Vissoye 
along the r. bank of the Navigenze 
past Quimet, Mission, and Ayer, all 
poor - looking places ; the second- 
named is opposite Grimentz, at the 
fork of the valley where the stream 
from the Val de Torrent or de Moiry 



ROUTE I. ASCENTS FROM ZINAL 



joins the main branch of the Navi- 
genze. Above Ayer there are no 
winter dwellings, the numerous ham- 
lets consisting only of may ens ^ or 
houses inhabited in spring and summer 
and occasionally in winter. About 
I m. further the torrent is crossed to 
its L bank. The track ascends through 
pine forests, and returning higher up 
to the r. bank passes by several clus- 
ters of houses, at one of which, called 
Zinal (1,678 m., 5,505 ft.), are the 
hotels. 

Zinal has now become a favourite 
resort of travellers, for even in its 
immediate neighbourhood, and still 
more from the Mountet Club hut, on 
the edge of the upper basin of the 
grand Zinal gl. , many excursions and 
ascents may be made. 

£One of the shortest excursions 
is to mount to the Tracuit alp, on 
the S.E., ascend the Roc de la Vac he 
(2,587 m., 8,488 ft.), on the edge 
of the cliffs towards Zinal, and 
return by the Arpitetta alp (glorious 
view of the Weisshorn and Roth- 
horn, and the basin of the Morning 
gl. ) and across the snout of the 
Zinal gl. This round may be agree- 
ably lengthened by crossing from 
one Alp to the other over the 
ridge (whence there is a remarkable 
view) connecting the Tete de Millon 
and the Pointe d' Arpitetta. The 
Tete de Millon (3,698 m., 12,133 ft.) 
may be climbed in 6 hrs. from Zinal, 
the Pointe d' 'Arpitetta (3,140 m., 
10,302 ft. ) in 4 hrs., and the Garde 
de Bordon (3,316 m., 10,880 ft.), on 
the opposite side of the valley, in 
4 hrs. , mounting from the path to the 
Col de Sorebois, and returning by the 
Alpe de l'Allee. The Pigne de PAllee 
(3,404 m. , 1 1 , 168 ft. ) is also frequently 
ascended from Zinal by way of its N. 
ridge in 6 hrs. ; it is easy to continue 
along the ridge to the Botiquetin, 
3,484 m., 11,431ft. (see Rte. K.) The 
fine peak of Lo Besso (3,675 m., 
12,058 ft.) — so conspicuous from 
Zinal — is best climbed from the 
Mountet Club hut. Of all the ascents 
close to Zinal that of the Diablons, 
1. 



3,605 m., 11,828 ft. (5 hrs.), is 
perhaps most to be recommended 
for the view ; it is best effected by the 
S.W. rock ridge, or face, but may be 
accomplished also by the S.E. ridge 
1 from the Col de Tracuit, while the N. 
ridge offers the most interesting climb. 
The panorama gained from the sum- 
mit is of the grandest character.] 
No visitor to Zinal should omit to 
! make an excursion at least as far as 
i the Mountet Club kut, as the view 
\ thence is one of the most magnifi- 
cent in the Alps. The path up the 
; valley soon crosses the torrent from 
j the glacier, and mounts over a barrier 
of rock, through a cleft in which the 
, stream has cut its way. The track 
1 keeps along the 1. or W. bank, at some 
\ height above the ice, then takes to 
the steep lateral moraine (here there 
j is now a small Restaurant), and finally 
! leads the traveller to the ice of the 
Zinal or Dtirand gl. (2 hrs. from 
Zinal. ) The lower part of this glacier 
is free from difficulty, and the 'course 
taken is to cross diagonally towards the 
foot of Lo Besso, which is here an ex- 
tremely grand object. The traveller is 
now confronted by a series of rapids, 
in which the glacier descends from the 
upper basin to the lower level hither- 
to traversed. In order to turn the 
great icefall (which may be forced) it 
is best to take to the moraine on the 
r. bank, just under Lo Besso. Above 
these ice rapids the traveller reaches 
j the upper level of the glacier, high 
above the r. bank of which, and 
j in the midst of one of the grandest 
j scenes in the Alps, stands the Con- 
I stantia or Mountet Club nut, 2,888 
m., 9,475 ft. (3J-4 hrs. from Zinal), 
which is now a sort of little inn, with 
resident caretaker in summer. The 
amphitheatre enclosing the head of 
the glacier comprises four glorious 
peaks, the Zinal or Morning Rothhorn 
(4,223 m., 13,856 ft.), the Gabelhorn 
(4,073 m., 13,364 ft.), the Dent 
Blanche (4,364 m., 14,318 ft.), and 
the Grand Cornier (3,969 m. , 13.022 
ft.), the steepness and the proximity 
of this mighty range greatly enhancing 

I I 



482 



PENNINE ALPS. § 19. ZINAL DISTRICT 



the effect, which in its way is hardly 
equalled elsewhere. The traveller, 
who does not propose to cross any of 
trie passes hence to Zermatt, should 
not fail to visit (1 hr. from the Club 
hut) the Roc Noir (3,128 m., 10,263 
ft.), a rocky island in the very centre 
of this wonderful amphitheatre of ice 
and rock. 

[The ascents of the Gabelhorn and 
of the Dent Blanche from the Mountet 
side are very difficult, and even dan- 
gerous, so that only the most experi- 
enced climbers should attempt them. 
That of the Grand Cornier is much 
easier, and takes about 4 hrs. from 
the Club hut by way of the route of 
the Col du Grand Cornier (Rte. K) 
and the E. ridge. Lo Besso (3,675 
m., 12,058 ft.) is accessible in 3 hrs. 
from the Club hut by the S.W. ridge. 
The favourite ascent from Mountet 
(for good climbers) is that of the 
Zinal or Morning Rothhom{6 hrs. ) by 
its rocky N. arete, an expedition first 
made in 1864 by Messrs. Leslie 
Stephen and F. C. Grove, with Mel- 
chior and Jakob Anderegg ; it is 
frequently traversed to Zermatt.] 

Fifty years ago none but the most 
vague and contradictory notions 
existed at Zermatt as to the possibility 
of effecting a passage across the range 
extending from the Weisshorn to the 
Dent Blanche, and the common be- 
lief was that such a pass, if feasible, 
would lead into the Val d' fLerens 
rather than into the Val d'Anniviers. 
When the writer (J. B. ) had satisfied 
himself (in 1853) that the latter valley 
ran into the heart of the snowy chain 
to the very foot of the Dent Blanche, 
it would have been very difficult, if 
not impossible, to find a native of 
either valley who would have agreed 
to accompany a stranger in the 
attempt to accomplish a pass between 
the adjoining valleys. Now at least 
four main glacier passes are known 
between the Anniviers and the Zer- 
matt valleys. 

I. By the Col Durand (io-ii hrs. 
frcm Zinal). — This pass forms the S. 
termination of the Durand or Zinal 



gl., being the lowest point in the 
range connecting the Gabelhorn and 
the Dent Blanche. It is seen from 
many of the higher points in the Val 
d'Anniviers, and even from the village 
of St. Luc, with the peak of the 
Matterhorn towering over it. The 
first known passage by strangers was 
that effected in August, 1859, by 
Messrs. W. and G. S. Mathews, 
with J. B. and Michel Croz and 
Joseph Viennin, but a Zinal party had 
crossed it in 1858. It is best taken 
from the Zinal side, as the effect of 
the grand view from the summit is 
enhanced by the charm of surprise, 
and because the only difficulty is on 
the Zinal side. Projecting buttresses 
of rock descending from the great 
peaks round the head of the Durand 
gl. divide the snow fields into different 
bays ; the main stream of that gl. 
leads straight to the Col Durand, 
while the bay leading to the Triftjoch 
is seen to the 1. of the great buttress 
of the Gabelhorn. 

The traveller starting from the 
Mountet Club hut must keep a course 
over the glacier in a nearly due S. 
direction, having the rocky island of 
the Roc Noir on his right hand. 
Some way higher up the slope there 
is a double bergschrund, which is 
sometimes troublesome. (Examined 
through a glass by the writer, in Sep- 
tember 1853, it appeared to extend,, 
without abridge, right across the head 
of the glacier, with a breadth of 
from twenty to thirty feet.) Once 
over this barrier, a steep snow slope, 
only troublesome if it is ice and gradu- 
ally decreasing in steepness, leads up 
to this pass, 3,474 m., 11,398 ft. (2J 
hrs. from Mountet. ) 

The view from the summit which 
bursts suddenly upon the traveller, or 
better still from an eminence on the 
r. or W. of the Col, and marked by a 
cairn, is by competent judges con- 
sidered to be the grandest in the 
Pennine Alps. Right opposite the 
I marvellous peak of the Matterhorn 
I presents its most imposing aspect, 
flanked on the r. by its rival, the 



ROUTE I. SIERRE TO ZERMATT 



483 



Dent d'H^rens. To the 1. is the 
mass of the range of Monte Rosa, 
somewhat foreshortened, while N. of 
the Weissthor rise the Strahlhorn and 
the Rimpfischhorn. As compared 
with the neighbouring pass of the 
Triftjoch the panorama loses the 
highest summits of the Saasgrat, but 
the loss is more than made up by the 
Matterhorn, not seen from the rival 
pass. The peaks surrounding the 
head of the Zinal gl. must not be 
forgotten, the Dent Blanche seeming 
to be close at hand, though sepa- 
rated by the rocky point of the Pointe 
de Zinal '(3,806 m., 12,487 ft.), which 
crowns the ridge dividing the Hoh- 
wang and the Schdnbiihl glaciers. 

The descent to the Z'Mutt gl. may 
be sometimes effected under favour- 
able conditions direct down the 
centre of the icefall of the Hohwang 
gl. The traveller will generally 
cross the gap between the Hohwang- 
horn and the Ebihorn, on the 1. bank 
of the glacier, but it may be found 
best to bear r. from the upper Hoh- 
wang gl. to the rocks on its r. bank, 
by which the Z'Mutt gl. is gained 
without difficulty (2 hrs. ) The 1. bank 
of that glacier and the track above it 
are followed, past the hamlet of Z'Mutt, 
to Zermatt (2 hrs. ) 

2. By the Triftjoch (9-10 hrs. from 
Zinal). — The remains of a ladder were 
found on this pass by a chamois 
hunter some years before 1845, an( ^ 
again by the cure of Tasch in 1849, 
so that at some unknown period it 
had been not unfrequently crossed by 
natives. But it was the first passage 
by a stranger, effected in 1854 by 
Mr. R. Fowler, with Arnold Kehrli, 
of Gadmen, and Ignaz Biener, of 
Zermatt, that made it known to 
mountaineers in general. 

The traveller coming from the 
Mountet Club hut must bear S.E. 
across the glacier to the bay lying E. 
of the great spur of the Gabelhorn, 
and then gradually steer more and 
more to the E. A snow slope, 
broken by crevasses, leads up to the 
rocks of the Trifthorn, which are 



easily climbed (there is an iron chain 
at the worst bit) to the pass, 3,540 m., 
11,615 ft. (2J-3 hrs. from Mountet.) 
The only real danger is on the lower 
rocks and lower snow slope, by 
reason of fragments of rock that are 
loosened when the sun begins to tell 
j on the crest of the ridge. 

The pass is a mere notch in 
I the ridge between the Wellenkuppe 
I (3,910 m., 12,829 ft.), a summit of the 
J Gabelhorn, and the Trifthorn (3,73^ 
; m., 12,261ft.), a few feet in width, 
[ and so sharp that it is possible to sit 
astride of the ridge. The view of 
; Monte Rosa and of the Saasgrat is 
! of the grandest character, and is only 
surpassed by that from the two passes 
to be described below. The view 
backwards, where the rocks seem to 
I plunge vertically down towards the 
head of the Zinal gl. , is scarcely less 
; striking. 

A broad bent couloir runs down 
from the Col to the level Trift gl., 
across which a course due E. should 
be kept to the Eseltschuggen rocks, 
whence moraine leads down into the 
Trift gorge, in which the path from 
the Trift inn is found and followed to 
Zermatt (3 hrs. from the pass). 

3. By the Morning Pass (13-13J 
1 hrs. from Zinal). — This is the most 
I difficult of the four passes here de- 
I scribed. It was first crossed in 
j 1864 by Messrs. A. W. Moore and 
j E. Whymper, with Christian Aimer 
j and Michel Croz. The Editor (J. B. ) 

is indebted to the former gentleman 
j for the following notes (abridged in 
I the present edition) : — ' The Morning 
! gl. is fed by a great field of neve, 
! which lies along the base of the ridge 
that circles round from the Schalli- 
horn through the Rothhorn to Lo 
Besso. This is supported, at a great 
i elevation above the lower gl. , by a 
: wall of rocks, the general direction of 
i which, speaking roughly, is E. and 
j W. Between the W. end of this 
! wall and Lo Besso there is a wide 
j opening, through which the glacier 
j streams in a broad icefall, but the 
I space between its E. end and the 

I I 2 



4$4 



PENNINE ALPS, § 19. ZINAL DISTRICT 



Schallihorn is very contracted, and 
the glacier is on that side squeezed 
through in a confused mass of pre- 
cipitous seracs and ice cliffs of the 
most impracticable character. The 
true Morning Pass, or Ober Schalli- 
joch (3,745 m., 12,287 ftr ) 5 lies at the 
head of this, but we crossed the ridge 
at a slightly higher point (3,793 m. , 
12,445 ft-) a vei T little farther S. and 
nearer the Rothhorn.' These two 
passes are separated by the Morning 
peak (3,867 m., 12,687 ft.), the N. 
pass being used if it is wished to 
attain Randa, and the S. pass, the 
easier, if Zerrnatt be aimed at. Mr. 
Moore's party, in order to have plenty 
of time for exploration, slept at the 
highest chalet on the Arpitetta Alp, 
2\ hrs. from Zinal, but now that the 
route is known a good party can start 
from Zinal itself. ' Leaving the 
chalet at 5.40 a.m., we got on to the 
Weisshorn gl. in 35 min. without 
difficulty. This gl. flows from the 
ridge between the Weisshorn and the 
Schallihorn ; in its upper portion it 
is separated from the Morning gl. by 
a spur from the Schallihorn, but 
lower down the two are united, the 
division being merely indicated by a 
medial moraine. We crossed it and 
the moraine beyond, and so reached 
the Morning gl. at a point where the 
ice was smooth and level.' Mr. 
Moore's party attempted to force a 
way direct up the ice cliffs below the 
Co!, but had to make a dangerous 
traverse in order to gain the rocks of 
the Schallihorn. It has since been 
found better to climb these red rocks 
at once, and then to traverse a snow 
field to the rocks of the Morning peak, 
by which and a steep ice or snow 
slope either pass is reached (5 hrs. 
from the chalet). The view from the 
pass is magnificent. Nowadays the 
pass is generally taken from the 
Mountet Club hut, the Rothhorn route 
being followed till, shortly after the 
rocks on the W. arete are gained, it 
is easy to drop down on to the upper 
level of the Morning glacier. 

Mr. Moore's party, in bad weather, 



encountered considerable difficulty 
in forcing a way through the seracs 
on the Zerrnatt side of the pass. 
But generally these do not give 
much trouble, unless under excep- 

I tional circumstances, and the neve of 
the Hohlicht gl. is easily gained. 

I ' The neve reached, we bore away to 
the r. , and keeping close under the 
cliffs of the Rothhorn, without much 
ascent, got on to the ridge which 
runs from that peak to the Mettelhorn, 
and forms the r. bank of the Roth- 
horn gl. ' It is best to aim at a broad 
opening in this ridge, farther E. than 
the point attained by Mr. Moore's 
party, this opening being attained by 
a considerable ascent in about 3 hrs. 
from the Morning Pass. This ridge 
is then followed till it sinks into the 
Rothhorn gl., or that gl. gained direct 
higher up by snow slopes. This gl. 
is crossed in a S.W. direction, till 
finally the Triftjoeh route is struck at 
the Eseltschuggen rocks, and followed 
henceforth to Zerrnatt (5^ hrs. from 
the Morning Pass). 

4. By the Schallijoch (10-11 hrs. 

; from Zinal). — As above mentioned 
the pass called Ober Schallijoch is 

i really the N. Morning Pass, and thence 

; a difficult rock descent leads down to 

: the Schalliberg gl. But the Schalli- 
joch proper lies on the other side of 
the Schallihorn (3,958 m. , 12,986 ft. ), 
and leads from the Weisshorn to the 
Schalliberg gl. It was first traversed 
in 1864 by Messrs. J. J. Hornby and 
T. H. Philpott, with Christian Aimer 
and Christian Lauener. 

From the highest Arpitetta chalet 
(2 J- hrs. from Zinal) the Weisshorn 
gl. is easily reached in 1 hr. , and 
another hour suffices to force a way 
through the seracs to the upper 
plateau of that gl. , at the foot of 
the final ascent to the pass. The 
first party cut up steep ice slopes 
direct to the Col. But it is in every 
way preferable to take to the Weiss- 
horn rocks on the 1. of the pass, and 
to mount them till a final steep snow 

[ slope gives access to the Col (4 hrs. 

I from the chalet). More seracs lead 



ROUTE K. EVOLENA TO THE VAL D'ANNIVIERS 485 



down to the Schalliberg gl. , which is 
quitted in 1 hr. on its r. bank, 
2J hrs. more sufficing to reach 
Randa. 

The Weisshorn (4,512 m., 14,804 
ft. ) has been scaled a few times by a 
very difficult and dangerous route 
from the Weisshorn gl. by its great 
W. face, while in 1895 Mr. Broome 
succeeded, under very favourable cir- 
cumstances, in following the ridge 
from the Schallijoch to the summit 
(5 -J hrs.); but these are tours de 
force, and the best route up the peak 
(§ 20. Rte. A) is from a bivouac on 
the Hohlicht, passed on the way from 
the Schallijoch to Randa. 



Route K. 

EVOLENA TO THE VAL 
D'ANNIVIERS. 

A glance at the map suffices to 
show that in order to go from Evo- 
lena to the upper portion of the Val 
d'Anniviers it is necessary to cross 
two ridges, save at points far to the 
N. and to the S. This is due to the 
fact that the ridge dividing the 
Kerens and Anniviers glens is split 
into two ranges by the Val de Tor- 
rent or de Moiry ^ the head of which 
is closed by the considerable Moiry 
gl., formed in the acute angle be- 
tween two ridges that diverge from the 
peak of the Grand Cornier. The more 
westerly of these ridges separates the 
Val d'Herens from the Torrent glen, 
while the more easterly runs due N. to 
the Come de Sorebois (2,923 m. , 9,590 
ft.), and forms the boundary between 
the Torrent and Zinal branches of j 
the Val d'Anniviers. The two j 
points at which a single ridge is j 
crossed on the way from the main 
Herens to the main Anniviers valleys 
are the first and last of the passes 
described in this route, the Pas j 
de Lona, leading to Grimetitz, at i 
the junction of the two branches of 1 



the Anniviers valley, and the Col du 
Grand Cornier, direct to the Mountet 
Club hut. Travellers bound from 
Arolla to Zinal may cross the N. 
Col de Bertol, and then one of 
the passes (described below) from 
Ferpecle ; but if it be wished to 
accomplish the distance in a single 
day an active traveller might cross 
the Col de Zarmine, and then the 
Col de Couronne and the Col de 
l'Allee, though it is far better to take 
a shorter route from Hauderes direct 
to the hamlet of La Sage (conspicu- 
ous by reason of the white spire cf 
its church), and then to cross some 
of the passes N. of the two just men- 
tioned. 

1. By the Pas de Lo?ia. — This pass 
(2,767 m., 9,078 ft.) is traversed by 
a mule path, and takes about 6-| hrs. 
from Evolena to Vissoye. The way 
from Evolena lies over the Volovron 
alp, and the descent is made to Gri- 
mentz, an hour above Vissoye. From 
the pass the highest point of the Bees 
de Bosson (3,154 m., 10,348 ft.) can 
be reached in 1 hr. (hence a descent 
may be made by the pastures and 
wooded gorge of Rechy to the Granges 
rly. stat., in the Rhone valley below 
Sierre. ) 

2. At least three passes lead over 
from Evolena to the Torrent glen, 
below the Moiry gl. Of these the 
two most to the S. — Col du Zate 
(2,875 m -> 9> 433 ft-) an d Col de 
Breonna (2,918 m., 9,574 ft.) — are 
rarely taken unless it is wished to 
visit the lower part of the Moiry gl. 
en route. The most northerly is the 
Col de Torrent (2,924 m., 9,593 ft.), 
which, combined with the Col de 
Sorebois, 2,825 m -> 9> 2 69 ft. (the 
N. foot of the ridge extending N. of 
which may be rounded at Grimentz, 
whence there is a good path through 
the forest to Zinal, one ridge only 
being thus crossed), is the usual route 
from Evolena to Zinal, as both are 
traversed by a good track (8-9 hrs. ), 
though mules generally avoid the 
second pass and go by Grimentz. 

4 Leaving Evolena follow the road 



4 86 



PENNINE ALPS. § 19. ZINAL DISTRICT 



towards -Hauderes for 10 min. , and 
then mount a path eastwards up the 
mountain slopes past the hamlet of 
Villa and over the Cotter alp, in the 
direction of a gap dividing the Val 
d'Herens from the Val de Moiry or 
de Torrent. In 3 hrs. the top of the 
slopes is gained, and hr. more suf- 
fices for the last ascent, a stiff rise 
over flat rocks intermingled with 
snow patches and shale banks, to the 
Col de Torrent. A rude cross in the 
gap marks the Col. To the N. is 
the Sasseneire (3,259 m. , 10,693 ft.), 
accessible in 1 hr. from the pass. 
Leontodon Taraxaci is found in 
abundance near the summit of the 
pass. Looking back westwards from 
the Col the view includes the range 
from the Mont Collon to the Pigne 
d'Arolla, with the Grand Combin 
and the Mont Velan in the distance. 
The view eastwards is not so fine, 
but below the Col the little snow-fed 
Lac de Zozanne forms a pleasing ob- 
ject in the wild scenery around, the 
snow on this side being more abund- 
ant than on the Evolena side. The 
descent to the lake is made in 15 min. 
Descending the slopes beyond the 
route lies among groups of fantasti- 
cally-shaped rocks. The descent lies 
over the Torrent alp, near a mountain 
stream, on the N. bank of which a 
steep, zigzag path leads in \\ hr. 
from the lake to the Zatelet Praz 
chalets, in the Val de Torrent. The 
glacier at the head of this glen is not 
seen, and the scenery reminds the 
traveller of a Highland strath ' 
(F. W. J., revised). These chalets 
are \\ hr. above Grimentz, but the 
traveller bound from Zinal must 
cross the Torrent or main branch of 
the Navigenze, and then mount gently 
in a N.E. direction towards the Col 
de Sorebois. 6 The last ascent is 
steep, amongst rocks and snow 
patches, but the mule path takes an 
easier route to the N. The pass may 
be gained in 2 hrs. from the valley. 
The Come de Sorebois (2,923 m. , 
9,590 ft. ), on the N., can be gained 
in a few minutes, and the Garde de 



Bordon (3,316 m., 10,880 ft.) by a 
longer climb. The view westwards 
from the Col is confined, by reason of 
the greater elevation of the first chain 
crossed, but eastwards towards the 
Weisshom and the range on the 
further side of the Val d'Anniviers it 
is more interesting' (F. W. J., re- 
vised). From the Col the path leads 
down in a S.E. direction over the 
Singline alp till the Navigenze is 
crossed a short distance above Zinal, 
which is reached in \\ hr. from the 
pass. Pedestrians may take a short 
cut through the woods some way N. 
of the Singline huts. 

3. The extensive Moiry gl. may 
be reached direct from Evolena by at 
least one pass, the Col de Couronne 
(3,016 m., 9,895 ft.), just S. of the 
Couronne de Breonna (3,164 m. , 
10,381 ft., accessible in 20 min.); 
in this way a point far below the 
shrunken lower portion of the glacier 
is attained, and then either the very 
stony Col de Bordon (3,095 m., 
10,155 ft-) or tne C°l de t'Allee 
crossed to Zinal (9 hrs. or so). 
It is more convenient, however, to 
make Ferpecle the starting point. 
Hence two passes give access to the 
upper portion of the great Moiry gl. 
The more northerly is the Col de 
Moiry (between the Dent des Rosses 
and the Pointes de Mourti), a pass 
suggested in the first edition of this 
book, and first effected in 1864 by 
Messrs. Hornby and Philpott, with 
Christian Lauener and Joseph Vien- 
nin. Steep rocks led up to the pass, 
and a very steep cliff of crumbling 
rocks down to the gl. , which was 
crossed (the ascent is next to nothing) 
in a N.E. direction to the Col de 
l'Allee, whence steep rock, shale, and 
snow led down to the Allee alp, by 
which Zinal was gained in rather over 
12 hrs. (including halts) from Evolena, 
i.e. 9! hrs. from Ferpecle. The 
more southerly pass is the Col de la 
Pointe de Bricolla, just S. of the 
Point e de Bricolla, 3,663 m., 1 2, 018 
ft. (accessible in 10 min.) The rocks 
on the Ferpecle side are easier than 



ROUTE K. EVOLENA TO THE VAL D'ANNIVIERS 487 



those of the Col de Moiry, while the 
Moiry gl. is reached at once. The 
ascent of the Grand Cornier (3,969 
m., 13,022 ft. ) from the head of the 
Moiry gl. is not easy (3 hrs. from its 
N.W. foot by the N.W. ridge direct, 
this route being harder and shorter, but 
safer, than that up the W. face, which 
is dangerous from falling stones); but it 
is well worth while to visit the point in 
its N. arete, called Bouquetin (3,484 
m. , 1 1,431 ft. ), which is perfectly easy 
of access from the gl. , and commands a 
splendid view of the great cirque at 
at the head of the Zinal or Durand 
gl. Both summits may be also as- 
cended from Zinal (see last Rte. ) 

4. By the Col du Grand Cornier. 
— As observed above the traverse of 
this pass involves the passage of but 
a single ridge, while it leads direct to 
the Mountet Club hut, and so enables 
a mountaineer to reach Zermatt the 
same day by the Triftjoch, or to avoid 
losing half a day through the necessity 
otherwise of descending to Zinal, and 
reascending to the Club hut. By an 
unfortunate slip it is called Col de la 
Dent Blanche on the Siegfried map, 
a name which is perfectly suited to it, 
but has, in Alpine literature, been 
applied to two other, quite different, 
passes. This pass was first crossed in 
1864 by the same party which tra- 
versed the Col de Moiry. The Col 
d'Herens route is followed from Fer- 
pecle to the Bricolla alp, where it is 
necessary to bear S.E., then E. by 
moraine and an easy gl. to the pass, 
3,544 m., 11,628 ft. (4 hrs.) Rocks 
on the 1. of a great couloir lead down 
a rock wall and across a bergschrund 
to the gl. on the other side, the seracs 
of which are generally best forced on 
its S. or r. bank. Mountet is gained 
in \\-2 hrs. from the pass. The 
Grand Cornier (3,969 m. , 13,022 ft.) 
is best climbed either by gaining the 
S. arete high up (see Rte H.), and 
then keeping to its W. slope (to follow 
the ridge from the Col itself is long 
and very difficult), or from the E. 
side of the Col by its E. arete (2 J hrs. 
from the gl. ) 



Route L. 

VAL D'ANNIVIERS TO G RUBEN. 

The ridge between the Val d'Anni- 
viers and the Turtmann valley on the E. 
(described in next Rte. } is a single one, 
unlike that mentioned in Rte. K. and 
is crossed by several passes. The 
first two passes described below are 
best taken from St. Luc, or the 
Hotel Weisshorn ; the Pas de For- 
cletta can be gained either from that 
place or from Zinal, while the last pair 
are most conveniently reached from 
Zinal as a starting point. The Col 
de Tracuit alone offers any real diffi- 
culties. 

1. By the Pas du Boeuf (4J-5 hrs. ) 
— This pass lies just S. of the Bella 
Tola (accessible thence in \ hr. ), and 
offers the most direct route to Turt- 
mann. Pastures and slopes of stones 
lead up to the Col on the St. Luc 
side (2§ hrs.), while there is a snow 
slope on the other side, by which the 
Sorter glen and then the Pletschen 
chalets are attained. At these huts 
the traveller bound for the Turtmann 
village bears to the N. , but in order 
to attain the inn at Gruben a S.E. 
direction musl be kept past some 
other huts, whence a path leads down 
into the Turtmann glen, some way 

1 below Gruben.. 

2. By the Z'Meiden Pass (4^-5 
• hrs. from St. Luc, 3J hrs. from the 
I Hotel Weisshorn). — This pass is tra- 
! versed by a mule path, and so is the 
I usual route between the two valleys. 

Ascending nearly due E. from St. 
Luc, the traveller gains a point 
whence he may take a last view of 
the beautiful Val d'Anniviers, and 
then mounts by a gentle slope towards 
the Pointe Tonnot (3,022 m., 9,915 
ft.), on the L of which lies the pass. 
In approaching the Col an extra- 
ordinary scene of desolation is passed 
on the r. Some huge mountain mass 
seems to have fallen, and to have 
covered the slopes with its ruins, and 



488 



PENNINE ALPS. § 19. ZINAL DISTRICT 



similar masses, not on quite so vast a 
scale, have covered the basin on the 
E. side of the pass. The botanist 
may gather Woodsia hyperborea and 
some other rare plants on the rocks 
near the top of the Col (2,772 m., 
9,095 ft.) (A point N. of the pass, 
reached in \ hr., commands a fine 
panoramic view. ) A wild basin strewn 
with rocks is now traversed until, on 
approaching the verge of the steep 
descent into the Turtmann valley, at 
the Meiden huts, a very grand view 
of the head of that valley opens before 
the traveller. The great Turtmann 
gl. is seen, backed by the Barrhorn 
(3,621 m. , 1 1,880 ft. ) and the Brunn- 
egghom (3,846 m., 12,619 ft. ) A 
forest is traversed on the way down to 
Gruben. 

3. By the Pas de Forcletta (6hrs.) 
— This is an easy pass (mule path 
from Ayer, St. Luc, and Hotel Weiss- 
horn), but rather longer than the two 
just described. If coming from St. 
Luc a S.E. direction should be kept 
through the Tounot glen ; if coming 
from Zinal (a mule path throughout) 
the cross path by the Lirec huts to 
the Hotel Weisshorn is followed till 
the path mounting due E. from Ayer 
to the pass is struck. A bare valley 
leads down on the other side to the 
Turtmann glen some way above 
Gruben. The Pointe Tounot (3,022 
m., 9,915 ft.) may be climbed by its 
S. face on the way from St. Luc to 
the pass, which is 2,886 m. (9,469 ft. ), 
and 2 hrs. from the Hotel Weisshorn. 

4. By the Frilijoch (6 hrs.) — This 
is a rougher and higher pass than the 
Forcletta. It lies close to a hanging 
glacier of the Diablons, and just S. 
of the Frilihorn, 3,101 m., 10,174 
ft. (accessible in \ hr. from the pass, 
but is better reached direct from 
the N. fork of the Barneuza glen) ; 
the descent leads to the I. bank of 
the great Turtmann gl. , on which an 
excursion can be made before de- 
scending by the 1. side of the valley 
to Gruben. The Weisshorn is re- 
markably fine from both peak and 
pass. It seems probable that this is 



the pass described by Mr. Moore in 
vol. i. of the ' Alpine Journal ' under 
the name of * Pas de la Forcletta. ' 
By turning to the S. after leaving 
the Frilijoch, Zinal may be regained 
by the Col de Tracuit (8 hrs. from 
Zinal and back). 

5. By the Col de Tracuit (7-8 
hrs. ) — Mountaineers going from Zinal 
to Gruben should certainly take this 
pass in preference to the others here 
described, for it passes through fine 
scenery, and, besides, the Diablons 
(3,605 m., 11,828 ft.) can thence be 
ascended by its S.E. arete in 1 J hr. 
A path leads past the Tracuit alp to 
the upper pastures (one of the regular 
excursions from Zinal), whence a 
stony glen and a steep slope of debris 
and snow give access to the pass, 
also called the Col des Diablons, 
3,252 m., 10,670 ft. (3§-4 hrs.) 
More snow slopes lead down to the 
head of the upper icefall of the W. 
branch of the extensive Turtmann gl. , 
which is turned by the debris on its 
1. bank. The lower icefall is turned 
by rocks on the same side, but the 
rock wall here is composed of 
rotten rocks, w r hich are, too, very 
steep, and exposed to falling ice and 
stones. This is the only real difficulty 
of the expedition. The foot of the 
main Turtmann gl. is soon reached, 
and Gruben by the path along the 1. 
bank of the torrent. By crossing 
the plateau between the two icefalls, 
and then climbing over the rocky 
ridge between the two branches of 
the Turtmann gl., the E. or main 
branch of that gl. may be gained, and 
in that way either the Brunneggjoch 
or the Biesjoch, both described in the 
next Rte. , attained. The same route 
gives access by a steep slope of snow 
or ice to the Bieshorn (4,161 m., 
13,652 ft.), W. of the latter pass and 
commanding a magnificent view. 



ROUTE M. GRUBEN TO ST. NI KLAUS AND RANDA 489 



Route M. 

GRUBEN TO ST. NIKLAUS AND 
RANDA. 

The Turtmann glen, which opens 
into the valley of the Rhone at the 
little town of that name, well deserves 
a visit from any traveller exploring 
this neighbourhood. Occupied by 
forest, rock, and mountain pastures, 
it contains no permanent habitations. 
The numerous hamlets which are laid 
down on the maps, and may be seen 
from the mountains enclosing the 
glen, all consist of may ens (or spring 
dwellings), which are closed in winter, 
when the people descend to their 
homes in the Rh6ne valley, and also 
in summer, when the herdsmen move 
up to the higher pastures. A little 
inn is, however, now open during the 
summer opposite the may en hamlet 
called Gruben, or Meiden, and travel- 
lers will no longer be forced to pass the 
night there without food or shelter, 
as happened to the writer (J: B.) 
in August, 1845. As the temporary 
dwellers of this glen come up from 
the German-speaking town of Turt- 
mann, it ranks as the most westerly 
on the S. side of the Rhone valley in 
which German has superseded French 
as the tongue of the inhabitants. It 
is 3^-4 hrs. from Turtmann to 
Gruben by the mule track, which 
keeps mainly to the 1. bank of the 
torrent. It ascends steeply above 
the gorge in which is a striking 
waterfall (sometimes visited at the 
cost of a few minutes' walk from 
Turtmann), and then passes through 
a magnificent pine forest, in which of 
late years the axe has made extensive 
clearings. The little inn at Gruben 
stands at a height of about 1,800 m. 
(4,906 ft.), in a green meadow, above 
the /. (formerly the r. ) bank of the 
stream. Linnaa borealis has been 
found in the neighbourhood of 
Gruben. 

The chief excursions to be made 



hence are that to the extensive Turt- 
mann gl. , at the head of the valley 
(\\ hr.), and up the Schwarzhorn 
(3,204m., 10,512 ft.), on theE., both 
of which are described below, as they 
form part of the routes to the Zermatt 
valley. For the passes from Gruben 
to the Anniviers valley see Rte. L. 

There are at least five main passes 
across the ridge separating the Turt- 
mann glen from the Zermatt valley 
on the E. , while many pleasant varia- 
tions may be made by those so 
inclined. None of the passes here 
described offer any great difficulties, 
save the Randa side of the Biesjoch. 

1. By the Augstbord Pass (6-6 J 
hrs.) — This is the most direct and 
favourite route, as there is a mule 
path (frequently, however, closed by 
snow) all the way, and the Schwarz- 
horn can be climbed en route. The 
path winds up a steep and nearly 
uniform slope, due E. of the inn, and 
passes the chalets on the Gruben alp. 
In about 3 hrs.' easy walking the 
traveller may gain the summit of the 
pass (2,893 m "> 9A9 2 ft-) 

[No one in fine weather should omit 
to climb, in an easy hour, the peak of 
the Schwarzhorn (3,204 m. , 10,512 
ft. ), just on the N. , as the view thence 
is one of surpassing magnificence, 
and worthy of being better known to 
travellers. The panorama has been 
published with vol. vii. of the 
' Jahrbuch' of the Swiss Alpine Club. 
(N.E. of this peak is the lower Drei- 
zehnenhorn (3,056 m., 10,027 ft.), 
with which it is often confounded, 
while to the N.W. of this summit 
there is an easy pass from Gruben 
over into the Ginanz or Muhlebach 
glen, which joins the Rh6ne valley 
nearly opposite Raron, between Turt- 
mann and Visp. )J 

Slopes of stones lead down into 
the Augstbord glen. Here a travel- 
ler bound for the lower part of 
the Zermatt valley should bear N.E. 
to Emd, above the Kalpetran rail- 
way station. If St. Niklaus be his 
destination it is necessary to bear 
sharply round the mountain-side 



490 



PENNINE ALPS. § i 



9. ZINAL DISTRICT 



in a S. direction, so as to gain the 
Jungen chalets, on the route of the 
pass next to be described. 

2. By the Jung Pass (6-7 hrs. ) — 
This is a rougher and more rarely 
traversed pass than the Augstbord. 
The ascent to it from Gruben is by a 
steep pathless slope over the Hunger H 
alp. The actual pass (crossed by the 
writer in August, 1845) is one of the 
notches (2,994 m., 9,823 ft.) in a 
jagged ridge, which on the E. over- 
looks a wilderness of huge blocks, 
mingled with snow, the resort of 
ptarmigan and chamois. By climb- 
ing a point to the r. of the Col a wide 
view is gained over the ranges to the 
W., extending to Mont Blanc. The 
descent is very rough until the travel- 
ler enters the upland glen called 
Jungthal, which leads to the chalets 
and white chapel of Jungen, on the 
edge of the cliffs immediately over- 
hanging St. Niklaus. Hence a splen- 
did view is gained of the Mischabel- 
horner, opposite, and the Weisshorn 
towers overhead, while in the distance 
are seen the Bernese Oberland peaks, 
as well as the range of the Lyskamm 
and the Breithorn. Bearing to the r. 
a long and very steep descent, in part 
along ledges of rock, leads down to 
St. Niklaus. 

3. By the Brandjijoch (8 hrs.) — 
This is an easy glacier pass (also 
called Gcissijoch), which enables a tra- 
veller to see something of the little - 
known and tangled chain N. of the 
Brunnegghorn. The way up from 
Gruben lies over the Hungerli and 
Brandji alps, whence stones and 
rocks lead to the little Brandji gl. At 
the N.E. corner of this gl. is the Jung- 
thaljoch, giving access to the Jung 
glen ; at the S. E. corner the Brandji- 
joch, just N. of the lower (3,404 m., 
1 1, 168 ft.) of the two peaks of the 
Stellihomer (hence accessible in 40 
min. by the E. face and rotten N.E. 
ridge). The higher (3,415 m. , 11,205 
ft.) peak can be attained in hr. or 
so by way of the N. branch of the 
Stelli gl. , on the E. side of the pass. 
The S. arm of that gl. is easily gained 



on the descent from the pass, and 
hence the loftiest summit of this 
group, the Barrhorn (3,621 m., 
11,880 ft.), may be climbed by its 
N.W. face and ridge. The descent 
lies past the Walkersmatt hut, and is 
thence very steep to St. Niklaus. 

4. By the Brunneggjoch (9-iohrs. ) 
— This is a circuitous and not very 
interesting glacier pass (3,383 m. , 
11,100 ft.), lying just N.W. of the 
Brunnegghorn, and connecting the 
head of the great Turtmann gl. with 
the Abbe?g gl. The route on the 
Gruben side is, save the last bit, 
identical with that to the Biesjoch 
(see 5. below), but the Col can 
be reached in 3 hrs. from the Col 
de Tracuit (Rte. L. 5), so that it may 
also be used as a pass from Zinal to 
St. Niklaus. The icefalls of the 
Abberg gl. are turned by their 1. 
bank, and finally Herbrigen, half- 
way between St. Niklaus and Randa, 
is attained in about 4 or 5 hrs. The 
Brunnegghorn (3,846 m., 12,619 ft.) 
can be ascended in hr. from the 
pass by an easy snow ridge. 

5. By the Biesjoch (9-10 hrs.) — 
This is by far the finest pass between 
the two valleys, but the difficulties on 
the Randa side may be very serious, 
and it is best to take the pass from that 
side. It was first crossed in 1862 by 
MM. de St. Joseph and de Burges, 
with Franz Andermatten and Francois 
Devouassoud. The second passage 
was made in 1864 by Messrs. Moore, 
Morshead, and Gaskell, with Chris- 
tian Aimer and Peter Perren. 6 hrs. 
may be reckoned for the ascent from 
Randa, and 3 J hrs. down to Gruben. 
The following notes are from the pen 
of Mr. Moore : — ' Leaving Randa at 
3.5 a.m., we crossed the Visp and as- 
cended for 2 hrs. by a steep and 
rough sheep track up the gorge of the 
Biesbach, and the rocks on its 1. bank, 
until we reached the scanty pastures 
above the lower line of cliffs. Mount- 
ing by the slopes of rock and shale 
above for I hr. 22 min. , we then took 
to the Bies gl. considerably above its 
termination. The cirque of neve 




gmaris & Co. 



ROUTE M. GRUBEN TO ST. NIKLAUS AND RANDA 491 



which feeds this gl. is quite invisible 
from the valley. It is, however, of 
great extent, and is supported on the 
E. by a line of tremendous cliffs, the 
Freiw tinge, through a comparatively 
narrow opening in which the glacier 
proper finds its way towards the 
valley. The natural result of this 
arrangement, combined with the great 
steepness of the ground, is that from 
top to bottom the glacier is a con- 
tinued icefall, of a more than usually 
broken character.' 

Under favourable conditions, espe- 
cially in a snowy year, this icefall 
can be forced. But it is generally 
better to climb the rock wall of the 
Freiwange, which can be done in 
40 min. , if the right way be hit off, 
the rocks being very steep but good. 

[From the field of neve above them 
the Weisshorn (4,512 m., 14,804 ft.) 
was ascended twice in 187 1 by way 
of its steep N.E. snow and ice face 
and the N. arete. 9 hrs. at least are 
required from a bivouac on the hillock 
called Kastel, 3 hrs. above Randa. J 

' Crossing the field of neve, we 
reached the Col without further diffi- 
culty in 25 min., or 6| hrs. from 
Randa. The Col (3,549 m., 11,644 
ft.), on which there is often a little 
frozen lake, lies between the Brun- 
egghorn and the Bieshorn (4,161 m., 
13,652 ft.), and looks N. and S.' It 
is better to commence the descent 
from a point rather E. of the pass, to 
avoid an ice slope, the descent of 
which took Mr. Moore's party \\ hr. 
' We then traversed the whole length 
of the upper part of the great Turt- 
mann gl. without encountering the 
slightest difficulty, the inclination 
throughout being very gentle, while 
scarcely a crevasse is seen. In a 
little more than an hour we left the 
glacier for the rocks on the r. bank, 
in order to avoid a slight icefall ; but, 
after a steepish descent down a narrow 
gully in the rocks, took to it again 
for 30 min., and traversed it for 30 
min. more, when we finally quitted 
it on its r. bank, slightly above its 
termination, and took to a slight 



sheep track which led us to the head 
of the Turtmann valley. Crossing to 
the 1. bank of the torrent, to avoid a 
sudden fall in the ground on the other 
side, we returned to the r. bank at 
Plumatt, and reached Gruben in 
I \ hr. from the time of leaving the gl. , 
4| hrs. from the Col, or \\\ hrs. (in- 
cluding halts) from Randa' (A. W. M., 
revised). It is better to quit the gl. 
on its 1. bank, and to follow that bank 
of the stream to the inn opposite 
Gruben. The Brimnegghorn (3,846 
m., 12,619 ft.) may be reached in a 
short hour from the Biesjoch, by a 
broad snow arete with a corniche. 
It commands a superb view, especially 
of the Weisshorn and the Mischabel- 
horner, and no one crossing the pass 
in fine weather should omit to make 
this short detour. 



SECTION 20. 

MONTE ROSA DISTRICT. 

In describing the range of Mont 
Blanc (§ 16) it was seen that that 
mountain, with its attendant peaks, 
is naturally limited by two deep 
trenches, parallel to the direction of 
the range, and by well-defined passes 
which mark an orographic separation 
between it and the adjoining moun- 
tain groups. No such arrangement 
is found in the great mass which is 
included in the present Section. 

The central range of Monte Rosa, 
which appears to originate in the in- 
tersection of two axes of elevation, 
throws out a number of ridges that 
radiate afar, and gradually subside 
into the plain of N. Italy, covering 
an area much larger than that of most 
of the other districts described in this 
work. No convenient mode of sub- 
dividing it has, however, been sug- 
gested, and we propose to include, 
along with the central mass, the 
range of the Saasgrat to the N. , and 
the minor ranges to the S. and E. 



492 PENNINE ALPS. § 20. MONTE ROSA DISTRICT 



that enclose the so-called Italian val- 
leys of Monte Rosa. The natural 
limits of the district are, therefore, 
defined, on the N. side, by the two 
branches of the Visp torrent. Fol- 
lowing the W. branch through the 
Zermatt valley, crossing the St. Theo- 
dule, descending by the Val Tour- 
nanche to Chatillon, and following 
the Dora Baltea to Ivrea, the line 
passes round the base of the foot hills 
to Arona : it then passes along the 
W. shore of the Lago Maggiore, and 
up the Tosa valley to Piedimulera, 
whence it ascends the Val Anzasca 
to Macugnaga, and crossing the 
Monte Moro to Saas completes the 
long circuit by descending the Saas 
valley to Stalden. Within the line 
so traced, exceeding 300 m. in length, 
all the ranges properly belonging to 
this group are included, with the 
addition of the Matterhorn, the famous 
peak which takes its name from the 
village of Zermatt, at its foot, now 
the chief centre of the entire district, 
largely owing to the fame and magni- 
ficence of its great peak. 

It cannot fail to strike the reader 
who examines a map of this district 
that the direction of the ranges and 
of the depressions offers a marked 
contrast to that prevailing throughout 
the adjoining regions of the Alps. 
Save in a small part of the Italian 
valleys, the direction here is either 
parallel or perpendicular to the 
meridian. The mass of Monte Rosa 
itself (although its actual highest point 
is not at the intersection of the two 
ranges to be named, but rises some- 
what to the N., where the N. and 
S. range is intersected by a short 
transverse rib, parallel to the main 
E. and W. range) is best considered 
as the intersection of a great N. and 
S. ridge (extending from the Balfrin 
through the Saasgrat, most of the 
highest peaks of Monte Rosa, the 
Vincent Pyramide, and the range on 
the E. of the Val de Lys nearly to 
Ivrea) with the transverse range lying 
between the Dent d'Herens and the 
Pizzo Bianco, near Macugnaga. It 



is worthy of remark that all the minor 
ridges on the N. side of the political 
frontier are parallel to the latter 
range ; it is sufficient to point out 
the corresponding depressions occu- 
pied by the glaciers of Gorner, Fin- 
delen, Mellichen, Kien, &c. 

Although the peak of Mont Blanc 
overtops by over 500 ft. any peak 
in the Monte Rosa range, yet the 
average height of the latter range 
greatly exceeds that of its western 
rival ; for the three highest summits 
of Monte Rosa surpass 15,000 ft., 
and three others lie between 14,000 
and 15,000 ft., while within the same 
limits are the four highest summits of 
the Saasgrat and the Lyskamm, in 
addition to the neighbouring summits 
of the Weisshorn, the Matterhorn, and 
the Dent Blanche. The same infer- 
ence may be drawn from a comparison 
of the passes, for, with one or two 
exceptions, all the highest passes yet 
effected in the Alps cross the ridges 
of the Monte Rosa group. 

It is the opinion of many of the 
most competent judges that for gran- 
deur, beauty, and variety the valleys 
descending from Monte Rosa are 
entitled to pre-eminence over every 
other portion of the Alps, and, per- 
haps, if we regard the union of those 
three elements, over every other 
mountain region in the world. Nature 
is inexhaustible in the combination 
of her attractions, and certainly there 
are many other scenes in the Alps 
which may challenge comparison with 
whatever is most grand and most 
beautiful ; but one who would learn 
thoroughly to enjoy Nature in those 
aspects cannot do better than give 
ample time to the exploration of the 
district included in this Section. After 
spending some weeks amid the sterner 
scenery of Zermatt and Saas, he will 
find fresh loveliness in the marvellous 
contrasts that abound in the valleys 
on the Italian side. A summer's tour 
devoted to this district, wherein days 
of exertion, spent in gaining the 
I higher peaks, are made to alternate 
[ with days of repose, which need not 



§ 20. MONTE ROSA DISTRICT 



493 



here be idleness, will certainly not 
exhaust the beauties of the country, 
and will probably leave deeper im- 
pressions than a rapid excursion ex- 
tending over a considerable part of 
the Alps. 

Good accommodation is new found 
everywhere on the Swiss side, par- 
ticularly at Zermatt, on the Riffel, 
at Saas Grund, and at Saas Fee. On 
the Italian side the same is true of 
the most attractive headquarters — - 
Breuil, Gressoney, Alagna, and 
Macugnaga, while the mountain inns 
at Fiery and on the Col d'Olen are 
supplemented by many good Club 
huts. Among the Italian foot hills, 
too, the traveller will find good I 
quarters, as at Fobello, Varallo, 
Ponte Grande, and in the environs of j 
Biella. The mountaineer will, of ! 
course, not fail to provide himself with 
Sir Martin Conway's indispensable 
' Central Pennine Alps ' and ' East- 
ern Pennine Alps '(issued in 1890-1 
in the 'Climbers' Guides' Series), 
while Part 2 of volume ii. (1896) 
of Signori Martelli, Bobba, and Vac- 
carone's capital ' Guicla delle Alpi 
Occidentali ' is useful for the Italian 
side. For the southern valleys 
of Monte Rosa Mr. S. W. King's 
charming ' Italian Valleys of the 
Pennine Alps' (1858) may still be 
consulted, while the following Italian 
local guide books contain much inte- 
resting information : Brusoni's ■ Guida 
alle Alpi Centrali Italiani,' vol. i. 
(Domodossola, 1892), Ratti and Casa- 
nova's ' Guida Illustrata della Valle 
d'Aosta' (3rd edition, Turin, 1893), 
Tonetti's ' Guida Illustrata della \ 
Valsesia e del Monte Rosa ' (Varallo, 
1891), and Pertusi and Rattrs 
4 Guida pel villeggiante nel Biellese ' 
(2nd edition, Turin, 1887). The 
beautifully illustrated work of Signori 
V. Sella and D. Vallino, entitled 
'Monte Rosa e Gressoney' (1890), 
cannot be too highly recommended. 

In addition to the attractions of 
magnificent scenery some of the 
valleys described below are otherwise 
most interesting. The Zermatt valley 



was known to botanists and geolo- 
gists long before it was discovered by 
holiday tourists, while it has an 
instructive local history of over 600 
years (see the account in Mr. 
Coolidge's ' Swiss Travel and Swiss 
Guide Books,' 1889), particularly from 
the fact that the original Romance- 
speaking inhabitants gave way in the 
fifteenth century to a German-speaking 
population from the Upper Vallais, 
though some of the old place names 
still survive under a Teutonic veneer. 
On the other hand, about 1250, the 
Saas valley was colonised by Italian - 
speaking men from the Val Anzasca, 
while rather later some of the Ger- 
man-speaking inhabitants of the 
lower part of the Saas valley settled 
at Macugnaga, the effect on the local 
names being an interesting parallel 
and contrast to what happened in the 
Zermatt valley. In the thirteenth 
century, too, a German-speaking 
colony is found at the head of the 
Val de Lys, probably brought there 
in the twelfth century over the 
St. Theodule by the lord of that terri- 
tory, the bishop of Sion, while it was 
this colony which probably sent out 
offshoots to Alagna and Rima, 
though possibly these are due to the 
energy of the Counts of Biandrate, 
who were the promoters of the Saas 
and Macugnaga colonies. The his- 
torical importance of the Theodule and 
the Monte Moro therefore deserves 
to be studied more carefully than has 
hitherto been the case, while the 
glacier and minor passes should not 
be overlooked, especially those lead- 
ing over from the Saas to the Antrona 
valley. The historian, the philolo- 
gist, and the ethnologist will thus 
find much to interest them in the v/ide 
area now to be described in detail. 



PENNINE ALPS. § 20. MONTE ROSA DISTRICT 



Route A. 

VISP TO ZERMATT. EXCURSIONS AND 
ASCENTS FROM ZERMATT. 

M. 

Stalden . . • 4^ 
Kalpetran . . 64 
St. Niklaus . .10 
Herbrigen . . 13^ 
Randa . . .16 
Tasch . . . 18J 
Zermatt . . .22 
Narrow-gauge rly. in about 2^ hrs. 4 
trains a day each way. 

For many years Zermatt was only 
accessible (save by glacier passes) by 
means of a mule path to St. Niklaus, 
and then by a char road for the rest 
of the way. But the opening of the 
railway in 1 891 has rendered it pos- 
sible to gain Zermatt in about 36 hrs. 
from London direct. 

The line on leaving the Visp 
station (660 m., 2,165 ft.) makes a 
great curve and passes beneath the 
town in order to mount along the r. 
bank of the Visp, here running in a 
broad, stony bed. Some way beyond 
the picturesque old Neitbriicke, over 
which passes the mule path, the line 
crosses the stream and mounts steeply 
to the station of Stalden (803 m., 
2,635 ft.), which is S. of the village. 
(For the route hence to Saas see 
Rte. N. below, and for the Bistenen 
pass over to the Simplon, § 21. 
Rte. A.) Stalden stands at the 
junction of the two branches of the 
Visp, flowing from the Zermatt and 
Saas glens respectively. On the way 
up from Visp to Stalden the vines, 
which produce fair wine, and the 
wild flowers announce a climate con- 
trasting strongly with the region of 
ice and snow in which both branches 
of the valley terminate. Among the 
wild plants are several scarce species — 
Astragalus exscapus, Xeranthemuin 
inapertum, Achillea nobilis, and 
A. tomentosa, &c. The mountains rise 
steeply, and the snowy peak of the 
Balfrin (3,802 m., 12,474 ft.), pro- 
perly Balenfirn, standing in the fork 
of the valley, is the first example of 
that beautiful pyramidal form which 



prevails among the surrounding 
■ peaks. 

After a short ascent the line passes 
nearly at a level at a great height 
above the 1. bank of the Visp, 
traversing several tunnels and the 
imposing viaduct of Miihlebach, 
nearly 150 ft. above the ravine. It 
attains the level of the valley again 
beyond Kalpetran station, and imme- 
diately after crosses to the r. bank. 
1 Now follows the most picturesque 
portion of the route ; the line keeps 
close to the stream and traverses 
some very striking gorges, in which 
the Visp makes many fine waterfalls. 
The stream is crossed once more, 
, and another ascent leads to the green 
basin in which is the chief hamlet of 
I the valley, 

St. Niklaus (the station is 1 , 1 30 m. , 
3,708 ft.) (For the routes to Gruben 
see § 19. Rte. M, and for those to Saas 
Rte. P. below.) 

[An excursion may be made hence 
1 in 2 hrs. to the village of Grachen, 
on the E. side of the valley, and 
to the Hannig Alp, above it, im- 
mediately overlooking the junction 
of the two valleys and command- 
ing a distant view of the Bernese 
Alps. Grachen was the birth- 
place of the sixteenth-century Swiss 
Humanist Thomas Platter, who in his 
autobiography has given an interest- 
ing sketch of his early life in his 
native valley ; the house in which he 
was born is still shown. J 

St. Niklaus and the neighbouring 
hamlets suffered severely in 1855 from 
repeated shocks of earthquake, which 
were felt to a less extent in the ad- 
joining districts, but whose force was 
mainly expended throughout the few 
miles between this place and Visp. 
! Forty-nine shocks were counted, and 
slighter disturbances were renewed 
in the course of the three or four fol- 
lowing years. Scarcely a house in 
the village escaped serious injury, 
and many were destroyed. 

Above St. Niklaus the scenery in- 
I creases in grandeur. The rocky 
[ walls on either side become higher 



ROUTE A. VISP TO ZERMATT 



495 



and steeper, and the valley is con- 
tracted to a trench, 2 miles in depth, 
between the opposite peaks of the 
Mischabelhorner and the Weisshorn. 
The line crosses to the r. bank in 
order to gain the station of Her- 
brigen (1,257 m., 4,124 ft.), and a 
further ascent leads to that of Ran da 
(1,409 m., 4,623 ft.) Hitherto 
glimpses of the Bnmegghorn (often 
taken for the Weisshorn) and of the 
Breithorn, at the head of the valley, 
have been gained, but at Randa the 
traveller finds himself close to the 
world of ice. The village stands on 
rising ground, a mud avalanche fan, 
opposite the small Bies gl., which 
streams down from the Weisshorn, 
but now ends at a great height above 
the valley. In 1636, according to 
the perhaps exaggerated records of 
the time, the entire gl. fell into the 
valley, spreading fearful havoc before 
it. Again, in December 18 19, a 
considerable mass was detached, and, 
though it fell a little on one side of 
the village, was powerful enough to 
level most of the houses ; it is said 
that solid beams and roofs were 
blown away like straw to the distance 
of a mile from their former site. A 
barrier formed across the river 
threatened to renew here the disaster 
of the preceding year in the Val de 
Bagnes (§18. Rte. E) ; but some 
brave men of the valley, working at 
the peril of their lives, succeeded in 
cutting an opening for the waters. 
Other similar falls, on a smaller 
scale, occurred in January 1848 and 
in February 1865, the noteworthy 
fact being that all these took place in 
winter. (For the passes to Gruben 
see § 19. Rte. M, and for the ascents 
to be made from Randa see under 
Zermatt, below. ) Above Randa the 
valley is nearly level for 2 or 3 miles. 
A short distance beyond the village 
is the torrent from the Kien gl., 
on the E., and near at hand the re- 
mains of a bergfall which is said to 
have overwhelmed a village and all 
its inhabitants. In the green basin 
or plain of Tasch (1,441 m., 4,728 ft.), 



seemingly the filled-up site of an 
ancient lake, the line runs along the 
dyke built to protect the valley 
against the ravages of the torrent, 
and extended in order to bear the 
railway too. A short distance 
beyond Tasch the line crosses for the 
last time to the 1. bank of the torrent, 
and is carried along the side of a 
narrow gorge high above the roaring 
torrent. A sudden first glimpse of 
the Matterhorn is caught, and then a 
short tunnel through a rocky buttress 
leads to the green basin of Zermatt, 
the station being at the N. end of the 
village, both dominated by the Mat- 
terhorn. However long a traveller 
may remain at Zermatt. or however 
often he may return hither, the over- 
powering grandeur of that mavellous 
peak must continue to fascinate his 
eyes, and the problem of its origin 
and history to occupy his mind, even 
though he be unversed in natural 
science. 

The little village of Zermatt 
(1,620 m., 5.315 ft.) bore during the 
greater part of its existence the name 
of ' Prato Borno ' or Praborgne (pre 
borne, meaning a plain limited by high 
mountains all around) ; but at the end 
of the fifteenth century it is called 
1 Matt '(the old name being also used), 
this German translation marking its 
occupation by a Teutonic colony 
from the Upper Valtais. The form 
' Zermatt 5 does not seem to be found 
before the eighteenth century. It was 
known for many years to botanists 
and geologists before Saussure came 
thither in 1789, and even much 
later pleasure tourists were extremely 
rare. These few wanderers found 
lodging in the house of the local 
doctor, Lauber by name, whose 
house became, in 1839, a regular inn 
on a small scale. It stood on the 
site of the Monte Rosa Hotel. But 
it was not till 1854 that it was sold 
to M. Alexandre Seiler, who, with 
the aid of his energetic wife, im- 
proved the accommodation at Zermatt 
till it became suited to the require- 
ments of the most helpless and 



496 PENNINE ALPS. § 20. MONTE ROSA DISTRICT 



indolent class of travellers. Many 
obstacles were encountered by M. 
and Madame Seiler in their arduous 
undertaking, but all were successfully 
overcome, and the memory of the 
courteous and amiable husband and 
wife (both now at rest) will long re- 
main green in the hearts of those 
who had the pleasure and privilege 
of being their guests. 

There is little to see in the village 
itself, a collection of wooden houses 
black with age, overtopped by the great 
hotels. The village church is of con- 
siderable antiquity, while few travel- 
lers will fail to spend a few moments 
in the small bit of the ' God's Acre ' 
on the N. side of the church, wherein 
rest the mortal remains of many 
foreigners, climbers and others, who 
have lost their lives in the neighbour- 
hood ; the English Church above the 
village has been built in memory of 
some of the earlier of these victims. 

The grandeur of the scenery around 
Zermatt, and the number of expedi- 
tions which can be made hence into 
the heart of the ice region, more and 
more recommended this place to 
mountaineers, though now the crowd 
of tourists threatens to swamp them 
almost entirely. The establishment 
of the first inn on the Riffelberg in 
1854 contributed greatly first to the 
conquest, then to the frequent 
ascent of, several of the highest 
summits around it, which were thus 
reduced to the limits of a moderate 
day's walk. Hence Zermatt and 
the old Riffel inn were the centres 
whence ardent mountain-climbers suc- 
cessfully attacked almost all the 
highest summits of the Pennine Alps, 
with the exception of the Grand Corn- 
bin and of Mont Blanc himself, 
who holds his solitary and regal state 
far away in the W. 

Weather is, of course, an indispens- 
able condition for the proper enjoy- 
ment of objects so new and vast as 
surround visitors to Zermatt, which 
cannot be appreciated or impressed 
on the mind in a moment. But 
patience is sometimes severely tested 



by a continuance of wet days and 
heavy clouds veiling the peaks. Snow 
sometimes falls in August close to the 
village, but the moments of returning 
fine weather, and the intervals some- 
times snatched from the midst of a 
broken season, amply reward the tra- 
veller's perseverance. 

There are many guides resident at 
Zermatt in summer, the best of whom 
come from St. Niklaus, Saas, &c, 
though they are not equal, save in 
isolated cases, to the best men in 
the Bernese Oberland. There is an 
official tariff, as usual, for all the 
neighbouring peaks and passes. 

Irrespective of other attractions, the 
neighbourhood of Zermatt is full of 
interest to the geologist, the mineralo- 
gist, the botanist, and the entomolo- 
gist. 6 Breithorn ' Biner has a vast 
j collection of the rarer minerals and 
! plants for sale. A list of even the 
! scarcest plants would include a large 
portion of the Alpine flora, but a few 
may be mentioned which appear 
especially interesting. Near the vil- 
lage are seen growing close together 
some plants of the warm region 
and some high mountain species that 
have descended from the neighbour- 
ing peaks, especially through the 
Trift ravine. Thus Stipa pennata, 
Euphrasia lutea, Echinospe?'mum 
deflexum^ and Hieracium 7mdtiflorum 
are seen behind the village close to 
Gnaphalium Leontopodium, Aveua 
distichophylla, and Artemisia 7?iutel- 
lina. Of the rarest species Draba 
incana var. Thomasii^ Artemisia 
spicata, and Scirpus alpintcs are 
found by the Findelen gl. ; Phyteuma 
humile and Car ex hispidtda on the 
RifYelhorn ; Lychnis alpina, Oxytropis 
Gaudini and O. iapponica, Draba 
Jladnitzensis, and Avena subspicata on 
the Riffel and Gornergrat ; and Pot en 
tilla multifida and P. ambigua, 
Campanula cenisia, and Crepis jubata 
on the Hornli. Gentiana tenelia, 
Carex bicolor, and C. rzepestris are 
not uncommon. 

Before describing the various ex- 
cursions and ascents that may be 



ROUTE A. VISP TO ZERMATT 



497 



made from Zermatt or the Riffel a 
few words respecting the topography 
of the district may be useful. It has 
been remarked in the Introduction to 
this Section that the range of Monte 
Rosa may be considered as formed by 
the intersection, at right angles, of 
two great lines of upheaval. The 
centre of the cross is formed by a 
great snowy plateau of considerable 
extent and at a height of rather over 
14,000 ft. Reckoning from hence the 
N. arm includes the Zumsteinspitze 
(4,573 m., 15,004 ft.), the Dufour- 
spitze, 1 4,638 m., 15,217 ft. (on a 
short buttress projecting W. from the 
frontier ridge, and so wholly in Swit- 
zerland), and the No-rd End (4,612 
m., 15,132 ft.) Beyond the latter 
peak the ridge falls to the Jagerhorn 
(3,975 m. , 13,042 ft.), and then still 
more rapidly to form the Weissthor 
ridge, about 3 m. in length and 
12,000 ft. in average height. About 
midway the snowy summit of the 
Cima di Jazzi (3,818 m., 12,527 ft.) 
rises a little above the general level. 
N. of this stretches a long range for 
about 10 m. , which rises in the 
Strahlhorn (4,191 m., 13,751 ft. ), the 
Rimpfischhorn (4,203 m., 13,790 ft.), 
the Allalinhorn (4,034 m. , 13,236ft. ), 
the A Ipkubel (4,207 m., 13,803 ft.), 

1 Even in the first edition (published July, 
1863) of this volume Mr. Ball made the fol- 
lowing protest against this name in favour of 
1 Hochste Spitze ' : ' With the highest esti- 
mate of the services of General Dufour, as 
Director of the admirable Swiss Survey, the 
writer does not believe that the name of any 
individual can remain permanently attached 
to the highest peak of the second mountain 
in ' the Alps. Since that date the name 
Dufourspitze has been well-nigh universally . 
recognized, and appears on both the Swiss 
and Italian Government maps. It is adopted 
in the new edition of this volume, as two other 
reasons may be urged in its favour which 
would probably have induced Mr. Ball, on 
further consideration, to alter his opinion. It 
is now known that this peak is not, as was 
formerly believed, on the frontier between 
Switzerland and Italy, for it rises on a but- 
tress projecting W. of the frontier ridge, and 
is thus wholly in Swiss territory. Again, on 
January 28, 1863, the Swiss Federal Govern- 
ment formally and officially adopted this 
name for the highest summit lying within 
the land over which it bears rule. 
I. 



the Mischabelhorner ( Tdschhorn, 
4,498 m., 14,758 ft., and Dom, 4,554 
m., 14,942 ft.), and the Nadelhorn 
(4,334 m. , 14,220 ft.), terminating in 
the Ulrichshorn (3,929 m., 12,891 ft.) 
and the Balfrin (3,802 m., 12,474 

ft.) 

On the S. side of the central plateau 
are four minor summits of Monte 
Rosa, arranged in descending order — 
Parrotspitze (4,463 m., 14,643 ft.), 
Ludwigshdhe, 4,346 m., 14,259 ft. 
(wholly in Italy), Schwarzhom (4,231 
m., 13,882 ft.), and Vincent Pyra- 
mtde (4,21$ m., 13.829 ft.) — whilethe 
rocky crest of the Balmenhorn ( 1 3, 500 
ft. ), to the W. of the latter point, is 
balanced on the E. by the Punt a 
Giordani (4,055 m. , 13,304 ft. ) S. of 
the Pyramide this range sinks into 
the comparatively inconsiderable ridge 
dividing the Lys and Sesia valleys. 

The E. arm of the cross is formed 
by the Signal Kuppe or Punta Gni- 
fetti (4,561 m., 14,965 ft.), the Punta 
dei Tre A7?iici (3,541 m., 11,618 ft.), 
and the Cima delta Pissa, or Monte 
delle Loccie (3,498 m., 1 1,477 
and may perhaps be considered to 
include the Pizzo .Bianco (3,216 m. , 
10,552 ft.) 

More important than this is the W. 
arm, which includes the Lyskamm 
(4,538 m., 14,889 ft.), the double 
summits of the Zwillinge (Castor, 
4,230 m., 13,879 ft., and Pollux, 
4,094m., 13,433 ft.), the Breithorn 
(4,171 m., 13,685 ft.), and the Petit 
Mont Cervin or Klein Matterhorn 
(3,886 m., 12,750 ft.), and is con- 
nected with the Matterhorn and Dent 
d'Herens by the flattened ridge, about 
11,000 ft. in height, that supports the 
Theodule and Furgg gls. 

Several secondary ranges, parallel 
to this W. range, are connected with 
the Cima di Jazzi and the other peaks 
to the N. which divide the gls. de- 
scending towards the Zermatt and 
Saas valleys. The barrier above 
spoken of connecting the Nord End 
and the Strahlhorn presents a wall of 
formidable precipices towards the E. , 
but falls away in a gentle slope to the 
K K 



498 PENNINE ALPS. § 20. MONTE ROSA DISTRICT 



W. For a breadth of nearly three 
miles the upper snow slopes lie almost 
unbroken upon this slope, but as they 
begin to descend towards the main 
valley they are divided into two ice 
streams by a ridge which gradually 
emerges from the neve, and finally 
presents a rather bold front to the gls. 
on either side. The highest points of 
this range, appearing insignificant by 
contrast with the grand objects 
around, are the Stockhorn (3,534 m. , 
11,595 ft.), the Hohthaligrat (3,289 
m., 10,791 ft.), the Gornergrat (3,136 
m. , 10,289 ft.), and the Riffelhorn 
(2,931 m., 9,617 ft.) The western 
slope, immediately overlooking Zer- 
matt, is called the Riffel or the Riffel- 
berg. On its south side is the Gorner 
gl., formed by the confluence of all 
the minor gls. descending from the 
N. and W. sides of the Monte Rosa 
range, while on the N. side the Finde- 
len gl. descends in the direction of 
the village of Zermatt. The position 
of the Riffel, surrounded by a complete 
circle of peaks of the first order, is 
perhaps unique in the Alps. It forms 
the starting point for many of the 
most interesting ascents to be made 
from Zermatt, and is the first excur- 
sion which every visitor to Zermatt is 
bound to make. 

The visitor to Zermatt has a choice 
of many expeditions to all degrees of 
difficulty, most of which are greatly 
facilitated by the numberless inns on 
the heights around the basin in which 
is the village itself — the two inns on 
the Riffel, those on the Gornergrat, 
near the Findelengl . , on the Fluh Alp, 
on the Tasch Alp, in the Trift gorge, 
on the Staffel Alp, at the Schwarzsee, 
on the way to and on the top of the 
St. Theodule Pass, not to speak of 
the new Betemps Club hut (practically 
a small inn) on the Plattje rocks at 
the foot of Monte Rosa and 2J hrs. 
from the upper Riffel inn. It is 
always hard to draw a hard and fast 
line, but it seems convenient to 
describe the expeditions to be made 
from Zermatt as a centre under the 
three heads of Excursions, Easy 



Ascents •, and High Ascents, or Grandes 
Courses. 

1. Excursions. — (a) Riffel and 
Gornergrat. — This is the Zermatt ex- 
cursion par excellence, and can be ac- 
complished throughout by rail or on 
horseback. The upper inn on the 
Riffel appears, when seen from Zer- 
matt, to stand on the topmost crest 
of the mountain, because the gentler 
slopes behind, leading to the Gorner- 
grat, are concealed from view. 

(i.) By Railway (1 hr. 20 min. 
from Zermatt to the Gornergrat). 
The line starts from the station op- 
posite that of the Visp line, crosses 
the river, and at once commences to 
mount the E. side of the valley. The 
gradient is not very steep, and the 
stream coming from the Findelen gl. 
is crossed on the same gradient by 
means of a very lofty bridge. A 
tunnel is then traversed, and the 
same direction (S.W. ) followed, till 
at a point about 200 ft. above 
Fallistutz the line enters a cutting, 
and by a tunnel bends to the E., 
thus affording a fine view down the 
valley. Near the Riffel Alp station 
a view of the Findelen gl. is gained. 
Shortly afterwards the line curves 
round, nearly at a level, and mounts 
rapidly to the Riffelhaus, the station 
here, like that at the Riffel Alp, being 
about 5 minutes from the Hotel. 
From the Riffelhaus station the line 
traverses undulating pastures, and 
passes to the S. side of the water- 
shed, when a sudden and marvellous 
view of the Gorner gl., as well as of 
the peaks on its farther side, is dis- 
closed. The N. side of the watershed 
is then regained, and the Gornergrat 
station is attained : it is on a plateau 
about 100 ft. below and due W. of 
the summit. 

(ii.) By Mule Path.—i\ hr. is re- 
quired to the lower inn, called Riffel 
Alp, 1 hr. more to the upper inn, 
or Riffelhaus, and hr. more to 
the Gornergrat. The good mule 
path crosses the Visp by a bridge 
just S. of the village, and ascends 
amid meadows to the hamlet of 



ROUTE A. EXCURSIONS FROM ZERMATT 



499 



Winkelmatten. Here (at a chapel) 
the path to the inns by the Findelen 
gl. goes straight on, out that to the 
Riffel bends to the r., crosses the 
stream from the Findelen gl., and 
then mounts steeply, before long 
entering a wood of larch and Arolla 
pine. At Schwegmatten, between 
the path and the snout of the Gorner 
gl. , there are some transported blocks 
left by the ancient gl. , 700 ft. above 
the present level of the Visp. Higher 
up the traveller passes the Attgst- 
kummen chalets, which command a 
noble view of the peaks between the 
Matterhorn and the Weisshorn. Here, 
above a flat meadow, the mule path 
bears to the 1. , pedestrians bound for 
the Gornergrat keeping straight on. 
In \ hr. the splendid Hotel Riffelalp 
(2,227 m., 7,307 ft.) is attained. It 
is admirably situated amidst a forest, 
and commands glorious views, but is 
now very fashionable, so that the 
ardent mountaineer will prefer to 
take up his quarters at the higher 
and simpler inn of the Riffelhaus. 
Near the H. Riffelalp are the 
English Church, and the Monument 
to the memory of Mr. T. W. Hinch- 
liff, formerly President of the Alpine 
Club. The mule path soon crosses a 
small stream, and then mounts a bare 
and stony mountain slope rather 
steeply by a series of zigzags, in order 
to gain the H. Riffelhaus (2,569 m., 
8,429 ft.), the original inn (now en- 
larged) built here in 1854. It is one 
of the highest in the Alps, and the view 
is very much the same as that from the 
Riffelalp. Monte Rosa is seen from 
neither, but the Matterhorn rises 
more and more grandly. The Riffel- 
haus is the best starting point for the 
high ascents round the Gorner gl. , &c. 
The main object of tourists is to reach 
the summit of the Grornergrat, a 
guide to which is needless. After 
ascending some way in a S.E. direc- 
tion, and approaching the shallow 
little tarn called the Riffelsee, the 
traveller finds himself shut out from 
the view on the r. by a very steep 
pinnacle of serpentine rock, called | 



the Riffelhorn (2,931 m., 9,617 ft.) 
It can be ascended from the lake in 
J hr. by a rough scramble up its E. 
ridge, and also by a variety of harder 
routes direct from the Gorner gl. 
Rising almost vertically from the 
Gorner gl., it commands the finest 
of all views of that immense ice 
stream ; but the mountain panorama 
is less extensive than that from the 
Gornergrat. Mounting to the 1. 
amidst huge slabs of slaty serpentine 
and other crystalline rocks, the 
summit of the Gornergrat (3,136 m., 
10,289 ft-) is soon gained. It is now 
crowned by an inn, to the doors of 
which mules can go. 

The panorama from this point pre- 
sents an unequalled circle of Alpine 
peaks, from the Mischabelhhorner 
right round to the Weisshorn, but 
only a few summits are seen besides 
those enclosing the Zermatt valley. 
The view is sometimes compared with 
that from the Eggishorn, but the 
Gorner gl. is not so deep below the 
spectator's eye as is the Aletsch gl. 
The upper basin of the Gorner gl. is, 
indeed, a noble object ; but its middle 
and lower course are, in great part, 
concealed by the RifTelhorn and other 
intervening masses, while of the Fin- 
delen gl. only a small part is within 
sight. The first impression of Monte 
Rosa does not at all correspond with 
its great height. As seen from the 
Gornergrat none of the summits of the 
range on the S. side of the Gorner gl. 
seem entitled to pre-eminence over 
the rest ; and it was long before their 
relative claims were settled. The 
earlier visitors to Zermatt were di 
rected to the Breithorn as the highest 
part of the range. Later the name 
Monte Rosa was applied by the 
Zermatt people to the Lyskamm, 
and this is done on the plates to 
Agassiz's ' Etudes sur les Glaciers ' 
(1840) ; but as early as 1840 (see 
Engelhardt's first book) the supe- 
riority of the Dufourspitze was ac- 
knowledged, though that summit was 
long called ' Gornerhorn 'instead of by 
its proper name, ' Monte Rosa. ' No 
K K 2 



500 PENNINE ALPS. § 20. 



MONTE ROSA DISTRICT 



description can, however, prepare the 
traveller for the effect of the rest of the 
panorama, as he turns his eyes round 
the semicircle from the Matterhorn 
to the Strahlhorn. The only way to 
do justice to this scene is to return 
hither frequently during the spare 
moments of a traveller's stay in this 
region. 

From the Gornergrat i it is easy to 
scramble along the ridge ' to the Hoh- 
thaligrat, 3,289 m., 10779 r ft. (1 hr.), 
and to continue along the ridge and 
the snow slopes on the N. to the 
Stockhorn, 3,334 'nr., H,595 ft. 
( I hr. ) The view from either includes 
a greater part- of the Findelen gl., 
but both ar^e overtopped by the Cima 
di Jazzi (3,818 m., 12,527 ft), which 
is, therefore, to be preferred to either 
(see below under 4 Easy Ascents '). 

Another way for walkers is to go 
through the gorge at the end of the 
Gorner gl. (b. below), rejoining the 
route described above at the Falli- 
siutz, below Augstkummen. 

Visitors to the Gornergrat may ex- 
tend their excursion so as to make 
nearer acquaintance with the Gorner 
gl. E. of the Riffelhorn and running 
along the S. base of the Gornergrat is 
the stony slope called Rothe Kumme, 
W T hich is covered with rare plants. 
A mule track traverses this, at first 
many hundred feet above the gl. , but 
gradually approaching nearer to the 
ice. The glacier is free from difficulty, 
and may be crossed in t hr. or so to 
the new Betemps Club hut (inn), on 
the Plattje rocks, at the foot of Monte 
Rosa. On the gl. the traveller will 
not fail to notice a series of circular 
pits of considerable size, that recur at 
about equal intervals on the N. side 
of the gl. 

The return to Zermatt may be 
varied by taking the mule path which 
leads from the H. Riffelalp to the 
Grii?isee inn (also reached by a new 
mule path branching to the r. from 
the Gornergrat path a little below the 
summit, and leading direct to this 
inn), near the end of the Findelen gl., 
a visit to which may be thus combined 



with the Gornergrat, the descent taking 
no more time. Good walkers may 
cross that gl. , mount to the Fluh alp 
inn, on its r. bank, and rejoin the 
Griinsee path to Zermatt at the hamlet 
of Findele?i. 

( b ) The Gorner Glacier. — A visit to 
the lower end of this gl. is within range 
of an afternoon's stroll from Zermatt. 
After flowing due W. for 6 miles the 
Gorner gl. sweeps round the base of 
the Riffelhorn, and descends nearly 
due N. into the head of the Zermatt 
valley. The easiest way lies along 
the W. bank of the Visp for rather 
more than a mile ; then after crossing 
the Z'Mutt torrent a very picturesque 
path leads to the ravine through which 
the Visp descends from its parent 
gl. This ravine or gorge has now 
been fitted up with ladders, &c. (fee), 
and is worth a visit. As indicated 
above, it is easy for pedestrians to 
pass through it (though this is not 
necessary, as across either bridge over 
the Z'Mutt torrent a path leads 
towards the gl. itself) and join the 
Riffel path at Fallistutz. The gl. 
itself has retreated greatly, and left a 
bare track of debris and glacial mud. 
Unpractised visitors should be cau- 
tioned against approaching close to 
the ice, as blocks of stone, lightly 
poised, hang on the terminal slope, 
and from time to time slide with great 
force down the declivity. The lower 
slope of the Riffelhorn is steep, but it is 
possible to mount some way along it, 
so as to observe the process by which 
the glacier smooths and polishes the 
surfaces of rock over which it moves. 
The appearances may be compared 
with those seen on the upper ridge of 
the same peak, in the hollow between 
the Riffelhorn and the Gornergrat, 
where an arm of the gl. passed when 
the ice rose many hundred feet higher 
than its present level. The pinnacles 
of ice formed in the steep part of the 
descent to the glacier cannot fail to 
excite admiration. 

Practised icemen may take the 
glacier on the way to the Riffel, and 
good climbers may climb the Riffel- 



ROUTE A. EXCURSIONS FROM ZERMATT 



horn by one or other of several routes 
direct from the gl. 

(c) The Findelen Glacier.— This is 
indicated under a. as it may be com- 
bined with a visit to the Gornergrat. 
It is about 2 hrs. by a mule path 
from Zermatt to the Grtinsee inn, on 
the 1. bank of the gl., and about 
2§ hrs. to the inn at the Fluh alp, on 
the r. bank (foot path from the hamlet 
of Findelen). 

(d) The Schwarzsee, Hornli, and 
Z'Mutt Grl. — This is deservedly one 
of the excursions most made by 
strangers. It is possible to ride to 
the Schwarzsee Hotel, and thence by 
the Staffel alp back to Zermatt, but, 
the Hornli is only accessible to 
walkers. From the very base of the 
E. foot of the Matterhorn a nearly 
level ridge or promontory of rock ex- 
tends a little N. of E., terminating 
abruptly in a bold point, conspicuous 
from Zermatt, called the Hornli 
(2,893 m., 9,492 ft.) In the angle 
between this and the higher ridge 
connecting the Matterhorn with the 
Breithorn is formed the Furgg 
gl. Below the Hornli the ridge 
separating the torrent of this gl. . from 
that of Z'Mutt spreads out, and in 
one of its undulations forms the basin 
of a small lake, the Schwarzsee 
(2,558 m., 8,393 ft), with a solitary 
chapel beside it. On a knoll to the 
E. is a large new Hotel. The mule 
path bears to the r. at the Hermattje 
huts from that to the St. Theodule 
(Rte. B), and by it the Hotel is gained 
in about 2J- hrs. from Zermatt. On 
the ascent one of the finest views of 
the Gorner gl. is obtained ; it is here 
seen while undergoing the process of 
rapid flexure, at the same time that 
it falls rapidly round the base of the 
RifTelhorn, with its surface torn by 
various systems of crevasses, which 
finally intersect each other, forming a 
wild confusion of tottering pinnacles 
of ice. The view from the Hotel 
well rewards the ascent ; but those 
who do not object to a short, rough 
climb should ascend the Hornli 
( 1 hr. ) Nowhere perhaps on the N. 



side does the Matterhorn appear 
more overpoweringly grand than 
from this point. Other peaks, such 
as some of the Chamonix Aiguilles, 
may appear as bold in outline, but 
they want the air (alas, nothing 
more !) of solidity peculiar to this 
unmatched peak. With an audacity 
that seems to defy the universe it 
rears its front 5,000 ft. above the 
snow fields at its base, as though its 
massive framework could support the 
shock of a world in ruins. Its 
stability is but apparent. Those who 
have passed days or nights on the 
mountain have witnessed the con- 
tinued progress of destruction that, 
stone by stone, is unbuilding that 
marvellous structure, though it. is not 
yet possible to calculate How many 
millions of ages would be required to 
bring it down to the level of the 
lower ridges that surround its base. 

There is no difficulty in following 
the nearly level ridge which connects 
the Hornli with the actual base of the 
great mountain, where is the Lower 
Matterhorn Club hut, 3,298 m., 
10,821 ft. (1 hr. or so.) 

On the way back to Zermatt it is 
usual to follow a mule path which 
lea4s from the Schwarzsee Hotel in 
f hr. to the Staffel alp inn, at the 
lo">¥er end of the great Z'Mutt gl. 
(it is also possible to gain this inn 
direct from the Hornli). A visit may 
be paid to that great but moraine- 
covered ice stream described in § 19. 
Rte. H. A mule path takes the 
traveller thence in 1 hr. to Zermatt 
along the r. bank of the Z'Mutt 
torrent. A remarkable chasm, cut 
through the rock by that torrent, 
well deserves attention. It is crossed 
by a bridge, over which leads a foot 
path to the hamlet of Z'Mutt (1,940 
m., 6,386 ft.), the largest of those 
above Zermatt. Hence a path runs 
down the 1. bank of the torrent to 
Zermatt. 

(e) The Trift Gorge.— Some travel- 
lers may care to explore this wild, 
rocky gorge (rich in rare plants), 
which opens just N.W. of Zermatt. 



502 PENNINE ALPS. § 20. MONTE ROSA DISTRICT 



The mule track for some way is the 
same as for the Mettelhorn (2. a. 
below), and a steep foot path follows 
the gorge (mainly along its 1. side), 
passing a small inn (f hr. ) to the 
large Trift inn (2 hrs. ) This inn is a 
good headquarters for several ascents 
to be described below. 

2. Easy Ascents. — (a) The Mettel- 
horn. — The Mettelhorn (3,410 m., 
1 1 , 1 88 ft. ) is the highest point of a pro- 
montory extending eastward from the 
Morning Rothhorn, and immediately 
overlooking the village of Zermatt. 
It commands one of the finest views 
— some think the very finest — in 
this neighbourhood, and is distin- 
guished from others of the same 
class by its proximity to the noble 
peak of the Weisshorn, and by in- 
cluding a considerable portion of the 
Bernese Alps in the opening between 
that peak and the Mischabelhorner. 
The ascent is a laborious climb of 
4-5 hrs. from Zermatt, but is within 
the reach of an average walker, and 
many ladies have reached the summit. 
The mule path mounts N.W. from 
Zermatt, at first steeply, then, with- 
out ascending much, in a N. direc- 
tion. It is that leading to the Trift 
inn. When a view of the Trift gl. 
is gained the ascent (now for pedes- 
trians only) continues direct to the 
summit. The last part for about 1 hr. 
is very steep, in part over a snow 
slope, and in part over debris often 
mixed with loose snow. From the 
top a fine view is gained of the 
extensive Hohlicht gl. on the N.-W. 

{!>) The Unter Gabelhorn. — This 
is an excellent climb for a traveller 
seeking to prepare himself for more 
arduous expeditions. The summit 
(3,398 m., 11,149 ft-) ma > 7 be best 
gained from the Trift inn (3-4 hrs.), 
either by way of the gap to the W. 
of the peak or by a steep rock gully in 
the E. face. From the gap men- 
tioned it is easy to return to Zermatt 
by the Z'Mutt gl. 

(c) The Wellenktippe. — This peak 
too affords good practice for aspiring 
beginners. It is a snowy dome 



(3,910 m., 12,829 ft.) on the ridge 
between the Ober Gabelhorn and the 
Triftjoch. The E. arete is gained 
from the Gabelhorn gl. by rocks and 
snow, and beyond is a steep wall of 
I good rocks, up which a pleasant 
; scramble leads to the snow cap form- 
! ing the summit (5 hrs. from the 
Trift inn). It is said that after the 
Breithorn this climb and the Rimp- 
fischhorn are the most popular at 
I Zermatt among those who do not 
propose to attack the great peaks. 

(d) The Breithorn. — This favour- 
ite excursion is best made from the 
St. Theodule Pass(Rte. B. below), in 
connection with which it is described : 
it can, however, be ascended by the 
N. face by a route which passes 
immediately under the summit. 

(e) Ober and Unier Rothhorn. — 
Those two points form as it were a 
pendant to the Mettelhorn, on the 
other side of the valley, as they stand 
at the W. end of the ridge extending 
from the Rimpfischhorn. Either 
peak may be gained in 2-3 hrs. 
from the inn at the Fluh alp, and the 
return to Zermatt may be made by 
the highland glen of Riederkuni?nen, 

I lying to the N. The lower (3, 106 m. , 
10,191 ft.) is more detached from 

: the main range than the higher 
(3,418m., 11,214 ft. ), and commands, 
therefore, the better view, though the 
panorama gained from either peak is 
very fine. 

(/) The Cima di Jazzi.— This is 
the highest summit (save the Jager- 
hom, 3,975 m. 3 13,042 ft., which is 
properly a spur of the Nord End) on 
the long Weissthor ridge connecting 
the Nord End with the Strahlhorn; 
but though 3,818 m. (12,527 ft.) is 
attained in 4-5 hrs. from the upper 
inn on the Riffel, or from the Fluhalp 
inn, provided an early start be made, 
as there are vast snowfields to be tra- 

! versed, when the snow is soft this 
perfectly easy excursion becomes most 
fatiguing and laborious. No other 
summit of the Alps, nearly equal in 
height, is so completely within the 

i reach of moderate walkers, and so 



ROUTE A. ASCENTS FROM ZERMATT 



503 



free from difficulty or danger, pro- 
vided reasonable caution be used. 
The Gorner gl. is gained by the mule 
path described above under the 
Gornergrat. After ascending gently 
over the ice, close to its r. bank, this 
becomes crevassed, and it is usual to 
go back for a short time to the rocks 
at the foot of the Stockhorn. Thence 
easy snow slopes lead up towards the 
peak, but it is best to bear at the last 
towards the 1. , so as to gain the sum- 
mit from the N.W. , where it is less 
steep. On approaching the summit 
it is seen that while the side facing 
Zermatt has the form of a flattened 
cone, the Cima itself and the entire 
ridge connecting it with Monte Rosa, 
as well as the E. side of the great 
mountain itself, form a continuous 
range of precipices. Travellers are 
strongly cautioned against approach- 
ing too close to the verge, as 
the cap of frozen snow that covers 
the summit usually forms a cornice 
projecting several feet from the rock, 
and liable now and then to break 
away and fall some thousands of feet 
on the Italian side. The view in- 
cludes a great part of the circuit of 
peaks forming the panorama from the 
Gornergrat, seen from a point in the 
circumference instead of from the 
centre. In the opposite direction the 
eye ranges for an enormous distance 
over the valley, of the Po and the 
Alpine ridges that enclose the lakes 
and valleys of Lombardy. The 
snowy chain stretching farthest to the 
S. is the Adamello range (§ 40), 
not the Ortler. 

3. High Ascents.— Within our 
limits the principal routes alone up 
the great peaks can be indicated, full 
details being given in Sir Martin 
Conway's two books in the ' Climbers' 
Guides ' series, mentioned in the 
Introduction to this Section. 

(a) Monte Rosa. — Monte Rosa is 
not a single peak (though the name is 
often applied to the culminating point 
of the mass), but a cluster of peaks, 
which rise on or close to a line run- 
ning roughly S. from the Weissthor 



ridge. The fact of this cluster was 
the cause of the fanciful conjecture 
according to which the name was 
derived from a rose and its petals, but 
it is now recognised that the true ex- 
planation is the patois word (found 
in the valley of Aosta and its glens) 
'roesa, ruise, roise,' meaning a 
'glacier,' as these were par eminence 
the great glaciers visible from the 
S. In this group ten summits are 
usually distinguished, apart from the 
Jagerhorn (3,975 m. , 13,042 ft. ), which 
is a buttress of the Nord End. 
Reckoning from the N. the names 
and heights are as follows : Nord End, 
4,612 m., 15,132 ft.; the Dufour- 
spitze, 4,638 m., 15,217 ft. ; the 
Zumsteinspitze, 4,573 m., 15,004 ft.; 
the Signalkuppe or Pimta Gnifetti, 
4,561 m., 14,965 ft. ; the Parrot- 
spitze, 4,463 m., 14,643 ft. ; the 
Ltidwigshohe, 4,346 m., 14,259 ft. ; 
the Schwarzhorn, 4,231 m. , 13,882 
ft. ; the Vincent Py?'amide, 4,215 m., 
13,829 ft. ; the Balmenhorn, 13,500 
ft. ; and the Pzoita Giordani, 4,055 
m. , 13,304 ft. The Ludwigshohe 
and the four points to its S. are 
situated wholly within Italy ; all 
the others are on the frontier ridge 
between Switzerland and Italy, save 
the Dufourspitze, which rises on a W. 
buttress, and so is wholly within 
Switzerland, of which it is the culmi- 
nating point. The Punta Giordani 
was the first of these summits to be 
climbed (in 1 801), the Dufourspitze not 
being conquered till 1855. An excel- 
lent summary of the history of Monte 
Rosa up to 1855 is given in an article 
by M. Pierre Puiseux in the 18th 
vol. (1 891) of the ' Annuaire du Club 
Alpin Frangais.' As to the S. sum- 
mits (the topography of which is very 
intricate), Sir Martin Conway's article 
in vol. xii. of the 4 Alpine Journal,' 
Signor G. Rey's two in the ' Bol- 
lettino' for 1892 and 1893, and 
Signori V. Sella and D. Vallino's 
work (already mentioned), ' Monte 
Rosa e Gressoney,' should be con- 
sulted, It seems most convenient to 
describe first the Dufourspitze, as of 



504 PENNINE ALPS. § 20. MONTE ROSA DISTRICT 



course it is the most frequently as- 
cended, and then to speak briefly of 
the other summits, in due order from 
N. to S. The upper inn on the 
Riffel (2,569 m., 8,429 ft), or the 
new Betemps Club hut (2,990 m., 
9,810 ft.), on the Plattje rocks (2§ hrs. 
from it), are the best starting points 
on the N. side, while on the S. side 
there are the inn on the Col d'Olen 
(2,865 m -> 954°° ft-)? tne Gnifetti 
Club hut (3,647 m., 11,966 ft.) on the 
Hohlicht(3 hrs. from the inn), and the 
Regina Margherita Club hut (4,560 
m., 14,961 ft.), close to the summit 
of the Punta Gnifetti (3 hrs. from the 
Gnifetti hut), the last-named huts 
being very convenient for exploring 
the minor summits of Monte Rosa. 

(i.) The Dufourspitze.— As seen 
from the Gornergrat a considerable gl. , 
now called the Monte Rosa gl. , flows 
down in a N.W. direction from the 
depression, the Silbersattel (4,490 m. , 
14,732 ft.), between the two highest 
summits of Monte Rosa. But while 
the Nord End is on the frontier ridge 
the Dufourspitze is not. The latter 
summit rises on a great rocky buttress 
which projects from the frontier ridge 
towards the W., thus separating the 
head of the Monte Rosa gl. from that 
of the Grenz gl., which fills the huge 
basin between the Dufourspitze and 
the Lyskamm. It follows, there- 
fore, that the Dufourspitze is wholly 
within Swiss territory, and that the 
view thence does not plunge dii'ect 
down the precipices towards Macug- 
naga, as stated in many old accounts. 
This great W. buttress parts off from 
the main frontier ridge at a rocky 
knob, known as the Grenzgipfel 
(4,631 m., 15,194 ft.) W. of this 
knob is a gap, and then the ridge 
rises again to form a rocky crest of 
considerable length, the two horns 
or extremities of which are of about 
equal height ; the E. horn is called 
the Ostspitze^ while the W. horn is 
the Dufotirspitze, the highest point 
of all. W. of the Dufourspitze the 
ridge sinks to form a wide snowy 
depression, known as the Sattel 



(4,354m., 14,285 ft.) These topo- 
graphical remarks will serve to clear 
up the history of the early attempts 
on the Dufourspitze. As it was 
clearly quite practicable to reach the 
Silbersattel the early explorers all 
tried from that side. MM. Puiseux 
and Ordinaire gained the Silbersattel 
by way of the Monte Rosa gl. as 
early as 1847. Later parties — the first 
Prof. Ulrich's two guides in 1848, 
Johann Madutz and Matthias z. Taug- 
wald — gained the Grenzgipfel, but 
considered the higher W. ridge to be 
inaccessible. Probably the Ostspitze 
was first attained on September 1, 
1854, by the three Messrs. Smyth, 
and later in that year by one or two 
other parties ; though M. P. Puiseux 
holds (with some show of reason) that 
the Ostspitze was not reached till 
1872 on its way up from Macu- 
gnaga by Messrs. Pendlebury and 
Taylor's party, which in any case was 
the first to traverse the crest from the 
Ostspitze to the Dufourspitze. But 
the Dufourspitze itself had been over- 
come long before, for on July 31, 1855, 
Messrs. G. and C. Smyth, Hudson, 
Birkbeck, and Stevenson, with Ulrich 
Lauener, of Lauterbrunnen, Johannes 
z. Taugwald, and two other Zermatt 
guides, had at last succeeded in finding 
the true way up it — by leaving the 
Silbersattel far to the N.E. and by 
gaining the Sattel, whence the rocky 
ridge was climbed to the highest and 
W. horn of the final crest. This is 
still the usual way, and nowadays it 
is hard to conceive that it was never 
tried till 1855, as it was successfully 
accomplished at the very first time of 
asking. 

From the upper inn on the Riffel 
the mule path to the Gorner gl. is 
followed to that ice stream, which 
is then crossed to the Betemps Club 
hut (2,990 m., 9,810 ft.), at the base 
of the Plattje rocks (2 \ hrs. ) These 
rocks are then ascended without any 
difficulty, and then endless snow 
slopes beyond, which gradually get 
steeper as the Sattel (4,354 m., 
14,285 ft. ) is neared. It then remains 



ROUTE A. ASCENTS FROM ZERMATT 505 



to clamber along the final rocky ridge 
on the E., which offers no difficulties 
to those with any mountain experi- 
ence, and may be scaled in I hr. or 
less. 5-6 hrs. thus suffice, in the case 
of average walkers, for the ascent 
from the Betemps hut, but fast 
climbers will, of course, take far less 
time. The view from the summit is 
very extensive indeed, and it is said 
that in clear weather the cathedral of 
Milan can be distinguished ; but as a 
rule there are light vapours on the 
Italian side, which spoil that bit of 
the view, unless the summit be 
reached very early in the day. The 
panorama from the top has been 
drawn by Herr X. Imfeld, and is 
published with vol. 1 5 of the ' Jahr- 
buch ' of the Swiss Alpine Club. 
The eye plunges from the summit to 
an extraordinary depth towards the 
valley of Macugnaga, thousands of 
feet below. 

It is a pleasant variation for good 
climbers to mount by the rocky S.W. 
rib to the Sattel, or to mount from 
the head of the Grenz gl. by a steep 
rock rib direct to the Dufourspitze. 
Those interested in working out the 
history of the mountain will like to 
climb up from the Silbersattel over 
the Ostspitze to the top (ij hr. ), or 
to join that route by climbing from 
the Grenzsattel over the Grenzgipfel 
to the gap on its W. 

The ascent of the Dufourspitze 
from the E. or Macugnaga side was 
one of the boldest feats of modern 
mountaineers. It was first accom- 
plished on July 22, 1872, by Messrs. 
W. M. and R. Pendlebury and the 
Rev. C. Taylor, with Gabriel Spech- 
tenhauser, Ferdinand Imseng, and G. 
Oberto. The party bivouacked on 
the Jagernetzen rocks (5 hrs. from 
Macugnaga), then mounted direct the 
formidable ice and snow slopes 
which in the day time are swept by 
avalanches, and in 8 hrs. gained the 
base of the rocks leading up to the 
highest crest. Traversing successively 
the Grenzgipel and the Ostspitze, the 
Dufourspitze was finally gained. A 



: Club hut has now been built on 
the Jagernetzen rocks (3,200 m. , 
10,499 ft-) by the Italian Alpine 

I Club. It is called the Marinelli hut, 

; from an unfortunate climber who 
perished in an avalanche while trying 
the ascent from this side. It cannot 
be too strongly impressed on the 
minds of our readers that this side of 
the mountain, though offering no 
serious climbing difficulties, is ex- 
tremely dangerous, by reason of 
avalanches which fall continually, 
j Those who undertake this route 
! should, therefore, consider themselves 
favoured by great good luck should 
they meet with no misfortune. The 
Marinelli hut can be used for several 
similarly dangerous climbs — the ascent 
to the Silbersattel, or to the Grenz- 
sattel (also called Zumsteinsattel), or 
to the Colie Gnifetti, or direct up the 
Nord End. But none of these ex- 
peditions can be recommended to 
mountaineers who consider that their 
craft is based on something more than 
exposure to inevitable and unavoidable 
danger. 

(ii. ) The Nord End. — This summit 
was reached for the first time in 1861, 
by Sir T. F. and Mr. E. N. Buxton 
and Mr. J. J. Cowell. It is best 
attained by way of its N. W. buttress, 
but is also accessible by a sharp ridge 
from the Silbersattel. By the last- 

I named route it is possible to combine 
the ascent with that of the Dufour- 

! spitze in one day. 

(hi. ) The Zumsteinspitze. — Like all 

I but one of the points to the S . , this peak 
was first gained from the S. by way of 

I the great snowy plateau N. of the 
Lysjoch, by Herren Zumstein, Moli- 
natti, and A. and J. N. Vincent, in 
1820. The ascent from the Regina 
Margherita Club hut takes about 1 hr. 
There is still an iron cross on the 
summit, left by Zumstein, while his 
initials and those of the two Vincents 
are still seen carved in the rock, 
(iv. ) The Signal Kiippe or Punt a 

\ Gnifetti. — After several unsuccessful 

I attempts Signor Gnifetti, the cure of 

I Alagna, at last attained this summit 



506 PENNINE ALPS. § 20. MONTE ROSA DISTRICT 



in 1842, and hence his name was j 
given to it. Close to the top, on the 
Italian side, is the Regina Margherita 1 

Club hut (prices very high), built by 
the Italian Alpine Club, and named 
in honour of the Queen of Italy, who 
has visited it, Two men reside in 
this all summer. The view from the 
summit is unusually fine. This sum- 
mit can, of course, be easily reached 
from the Riftel (as was first done in 
1861 by Messrs. F. F. Tuckett, C. H. 
and W. J. Fox) on the way over to 
the Col d ? 01en inn. 6 hrs. suffice for ! 
the ascent from the latter inn. 

(v.) The Parrotspitze. — Dr. Fre- ! 
deric Parrot, in 181 7, made a 
journey round the S. side of Monte 
Rosa, in order to determine the lowest 
limit of eternal snow, and his name 
has been given to this hump, which 
is easily accessible from either the 
Sesiajoch, on the N.E. , or the 
Lysjoch, on the W. It was first 
visited by Messrs. Macdonald, 
Grove, and Woodmass, in 1863. 

(vi.) The Ludwigsh&ke. — Another 
explorer of the group, Ludwig, 
Baron v. Welden, made the first 
ascent of this snowy point in 1822, 
and his name was rightly given to 
it, as he published in 1824 the first 
monograph on the Monte Rosa 
group. The climb up from the 
gap between the peak and the 
Schwarzhorn takes \ hr. by snow 
slopes. 

(vii. ) The Schwarzhorn. — The ex- 
act position of this point was long un- 
certain, though it actually stands on 
the main ridge. Hence it was not 
ascended till 1873, when Baron v. 
Rothschild and the Marchese Marco 
Maglioni went up it. It is accessible 
in a short -J hr. by snow and rocks 
from the gap between it and the 
Ludwigshbhe. 

(viii. ) The Vincent Pyramids. — 
Besides Zumstein, other Gressoney 
men took part in the early explora- 
tions on the S. side of Monte Rosa, 
the Vincents. So after J. N. Vincent 
had, in 18 1 9, first climbed this peak, 
his family name was most appro- 



priately given to it. From the 
Gnifetti hut the ascent takes 2 hrs. > 
the usual route making a circuit and 
finally mounting the snowy N. face. 

(ix. ) The Balmenhom. — Few sum- 
mits have given topographers more 
trouble than this comparatively small 
point. It is clear now that it is a 
rocky crest rather W. of the ridge 
between the Schwarzhorn and the 
Vincent Pyramide. It can be climbed 
in 5 min. by rocks from the snow 
field between it and the Vincent 
Pyramide, and was probably first 
attained by Signori Pedretti and 
Ma-riotti, in 1875. 

(x. ) The Punta Giordani. — This 
point too takes its name from its 
first conqueror , Dr. Pietro Giordani, 
of Alagna, who climbed it in 1801, 
this being the first recorded occasion 
on which any peak of the Monte Rosa 
cluster was scaled. It is accessible in 
3 hrs. from the Col d'Olen inn by 
the Indren gl. , or from the Gnifetti 
Club hut by any of the three ridges 
which join to form the peak. 

It appears probable that a quick 
walker starting from the Col d ; 01en 
inn might, with good snow, climb in 
succession all the S. peaks of Monte 
Rosa up to the Punta Gnifetti, where 
he could spend the night ; next day 
it would be practicable to continue 
this splendid excursion, ending at the 
Dufourspitze, or even the Nord End, 
and gaining the Riftel that night. If 
the start were made from the 
Gnifetti Club hut a good climber 
might take all the summits up to the 
Zumsteinspitze, and yet gain the 
Riftel the same night. 

(b) The Lyskamm. — The greatest 
of the tributary glaciers flowing from 
the mass of Monte Rosa is the Grenz 
gl. , descending from the central 
plateau between the Dufourspitze and 
the Lyskamm. At the head of this 
gl. is the Lysjoch (Rte. D), and it 
was hence that the first ascent of 
this peak was made in 1861 by a 
large party, headed by the Rev. 
J. F. Hardy. The climb takes about 
3 hrs. and is not difficult, but the ridge 



ROUTE A. ASCENTS FROM ZERMATT 



5o7 



is very often heavily corniched, so 
that very great care should be taken. 
The summit may also be attained 
from the Felikjoch, on the W., by a 
very long and in part narrow arete. 
But Messrs. C. E. Mathews and 
Morshead in 1867 showed that the 
easiest, safest, and most direct route is 
by way of the rocky S. W. ridge, which 
may be gained either from the head 
of the Felik gl. or from the Lys gl. 
by a traverse (6 hrs. up from the 
Quintino Sella Club hut). An even 
shorter route is by the S. arete (4 hrs, 
from the Gnifetti hut). 

(c) The Zwi Hinge, or Twins. — 
These are two snowy points, also 
called the Weisse Bruder. The 
higher and more southerly, Castor, 
is accessible from the Felikjoch in 
I hr. (or in ijhr. from the Zwillings- 
joch). The lower and more nor- 
therly, Pollux, may be gained by its 
S.W. ridge in \\ hr. from the 
Schwarzthor, or in 1 hr. from the 
Zwillingsjoch. They can easily be 
climbed together in one not very 
long day from the Riffel and back, or 
on the way from the Riffel to Fiery 
or Gressoney, Pollux being taken 
first. 

(d) The Matterhorn. — This is now 
the accepted Swiss name of the great 
Zermatt peak, and is taken from the 
4 Matten,' or meadows, which have 
also given their name to the village 
at its foot. On the Italian side the 
mountain is called 4 Cervin,' probably 
a form of 4 Sylvius. ' All these names 
were originally applied to the St. 
Theodule pass, and later transferred 
to the great peak which dominates it. 
The three names seem to be first 
given to the mountain in 1804, in 
4 Ebel's ' Guide Book. Its height is 
4,505 m. (14,781 ft.) according to 
the Swiss, and 4,482 m. (14,705 ft.) 
according to the Italian engineers. 

The history of the successive at- 
tempts to vanquish this formidable 
peak, and of the catastrophe that 
marked the first victorious attack, is 
well known to those interested in 
Alpine adventure, and has been 



graphically told in Mr. Whymper's 
classical work, 4 Scrambles amongst 
the Alps' ( 1st edition, 1871 ; 4th and 
definitive edition, 1893). The first com- 
plete ascent on the Swiss side was made 
on July 14, 1865, by Mr. Whymper, 
Rev. C. Hudson, Lord F. Douglas, 
and Mr. Hadow, with Michel Crozand 
the two Taugwalders ; but, save Mr. 
Whymper and the two Taugwalders, 
all the party perished on the descent, 
owing to a slip on the iced final slope. 
Three days later the first ascent from 
the Italian side was made by a party of 
men from the Val Tournanche. In 
1867 Mr. F. Craufurd Grove made 
the 3rd ascent, climbing up on the 
Italian side, but finally traversing a 
very difficult shelf (the 4 galerie ') 
across the W. face of the peak to the 
N.W. arete. In 1868 the Rev. J. 
M. Elliott, with Peter Knubel, made 
the first ascent on the Swiss side since 
the accident, and a few days later the 
late Prof. Tyndall (one of the earliest 
and most persevering explorers of the 
mountain) ascended on the Italian 
side and descended on the Swiss side. 
The same year Signor F. Giordano 
made geological observations on the 
occasion of his traverse. He has 
shown that, although in great part crys- 
talline in structure, the rocks exhibit 
a very regular structure-like stratifica- 
tion, and that, about mid-height, a 
mass of gabbro, 1,600 ft. in thickness, 
and conspicuous on the W. side, 
takes the place of talcose gneiss on 
the E. face of the mountain. In 1871 
an English lady gained the summit by 
the Swiss route, and later in the 
same year an American lady traversed 
the peak from Switzerland to Italy. 
Ascents by either route are now very 
frequent during the summer, and 
good climbers have not only succeeded 
in climbing the peak in a single day 
from either Zermatt or Breuil, but 
have passed from one place to the 
other in the day. Difficult and dan- 
gerous routes have also been forced 
up from the Z'Mutt gl. by the W. 
face, and by the N.W. ridge. 

(i. ) The Swiss Route. — Under or- 



5c8 PENNINE ALPS. § 20. MONTE ROSA DISTRICT 



dinary circumstances this way offers 
no great difficulties save to an in- 
experienced climber. It is usual to 
spend the night in the lower hut, 
3,298 m., 10,821 ft. (4 hrs. from 
Zermatt) j unless the Schwarzsee Hotel 
be preferred. Beyond, there is some 
danger of falling stones (particularly 
in the afternoon), while getting from 
the snow on to the E. face, but then 
the latter is climbed without difficulty, 
past the abandoned tipper hut, to the 
' shoulder,' whence the rest of the 
climb is made by the N.E. ridge 
(leaving to the r. the slope on which 
occurred the great accident of 1865), 
there being fixed chains and ropes. 
4-5 hrs. suffice for the ascent from 
the lower hut. When there are 
several parties on this side of the 
peak at the same time great care 
must be taken to keep together, as it 
is easy to dislodge stones, by which 
the advance parties are exposed tc 
great danger. A Rly. from Zermatt 
is projected up this side of the peak. 

(ii. ) The Italian Route. — This is a 
harder climb than the former, though 
many ropes have been fixed on the 
way, but it is safer, as there are no 
falling or loose stones. It is usual to 
sleep at the new Luigi di Savoia 
Club hut (3,890 m., 12,763 ft.), at 
the foot of the ' Grande Tour,' 
reached in 6 hrs. from Breuil by 
keeping far to the W. of the couloir 
leading up to the Col du Lion, and 
traversing along the face of the Tete 
du Lion (fixed rope), whence steep 
rocks lead direct to the Club hut. 
Steep rocks lead up hence to the 
' Cravate ' : here the old hut (4, 122 m. , 
13,524 ft.) lies j- hr. out of the 
way on the r. Next the end of 
the great S.W. buttress, the Pic 
Tyndall, is gained, and a nearly 
level ridge traversed to the gap at the 
foot of the last precipitous rocks. 
These are scaled by a series of fixed 
ropes and a short ladder, and so the 
summit reached in 4-5 hrs. from the 
new Club hut. 

The prospect from the summit of 
the Matterhorn is very extensive, and 



has been photographed by Signor 
Vittorio Sella. It extends to the 
Viso and the Dauphine peaks, while 
Zermatt itself is but a speck far 
: below. 

(e) The Dent dHerens. — This as- 
cent from the Zermatt side by way of 
the Tiefenmattenjoch is very danger- 
ous, and the peak is best taken from 
the head of the Valpelline (§ 19. 
Rte. E), though it may also be 
gained from Breuil (Rte. B. below). 

(/) The Dent Blanche.— -Of all 
the peaks round Zermatt this, perhaps, 
save under exceptional circumstances, 
is the most consistently difficult. It 
is usually climbed (since the destruc- 
tion of the Club hut on the Stockje) 
in 6-7 hrs. from a bivouac on the 
Schonbiihl promontory, near the head 
of the Z'Mutt gl. (see § 19. Rte. H.), 
or in 5-6 hrs. from the new Club hut 
on the S. Col de Bertol (§ 19. Rte. C.) 

[g] The Ober Gabelhorn. — This 
splendid peak (4,073 m., 13,364 ft.) 
was not conquered till 1865, when it 
was gained from the Zermatt side by 
Messrs. A. W. Moore and H. Walker, 
followed next day by Lord F. Douglas, 
who scaled it from the Zinal side. 
At least 6 routes have now been dis- 
covered to its summit, and this gives 
it an exceptional position among 
Alpine summits. That most usually 
taken is by the N.E. arete. The 
best starting point is the inn in the 
Trift gorge. Thence the Gabelhorn 
gl. is mounted and the N.E. arete 
(often heavily corniched) gained just 
at the foot of the final peak. The 
climb takes 6-7 hrs. from the inn. 
Sometimes the rocky E. face is tra- 
versed to the N.E. ridge, but it is 
better to gain that ridge direct. 

(h) The Zinal or Homing* Both- 
j horn. — As indicated in § 19. Rte. I, 

this summit (4,223 m. , 13,856 ft.) 
was first attained, from the Zinal side, 
in 1864, but it was only in 1872 that 
Messrs. C. T. Dent and Passingham 
succeeded in forcing a way up from 
the Zermatt side. Nowadays the 
Zermatt route has become the chief 
mode of access, and the ascent is 



ROUTE A. ASCENTS FROM ZERMATT 



509 



perhaps the most popular among 
those at Zermatt, save that of the 
Matterhorn. It is an easier climb 
than those of the Matterhorn and 
Weisshorn, and is often made even 
by active beginners. From the Trift 
inn the S.E. ridge is gained by the 
Eseltschuggen rocks and a long snow 
slope, and then followed to its junction 
with the main mass of the mountain. 
A traverse across the S. face leads to a 
notch in the S. ridge, at the base of 
the final rocks, which are scaled 
mainly by a long crack. 5-6 hrs. 
suffice from the inn. It is a pleasant 
variation to traverse the peak to the 
Mountet Club hut, on the Zinal side. 

(2) The Weisshorn. — This summit 
(4,512 m., 14,804 ft.) is perhaps the 
most beautifully sharp and symmetrical 
of the pyramidal peaks of the Alps, 
but its ascent, though long feared, is 
rather laborious than difficult, at least 
by the usual route along the E. arete. 
It is formed by the intersection of a 
main N. and S. ridge with another 
that descends towards Randa on the 
E. The N.E. and S.E. faces of the 
pyramid, as well as the upper parts 
of the three ridges leading to the top, 
are mainly formed of hard-frozen 
snow. On the W. side the pyramid 
is broken, and displays those vast 
precipices that present so grand an 
aspect from the heights above Zinal. 
The honour of making the first ascent 
fell to the late Prof. Tyndall, who 
achieved it in 1861, with Ulrich 
Wenger and J. J. Bennen, and has 
given a narrative of the expedition 
in his genial little volume entitled 
? Mountaineering in 1861.' The 
second ascent was made in 1862 by 
Mr. Leslie Stephen. The lower two- 
thirds of the E. arete are formed of 
successive teeth of rock which start 
out of steep snow slopes, seamed by 
couloirs of ice. The earlier ascents 
were made by a dangerous traverse 
across the gullies on the S. face of 
the E. arete, but it has now been 
found better to keep along the crest 
of the ridge itself. The final snow 
ridge is sharp, and ends abruptly on 



I. on the edge of precipices of which 
Mr. Stephen says, ' I have never seen 
more fearful cliffs. ' The summit is a 
solid angle of frozen snow, ending in 
a point, the three ridges of the 
mountain here meeting. For this 
ascent it is necessary to bivouac on 
the Hohlicht slopes, 3 hrs. above 
Randa ; thence the ascent takes 
usually about 6 hrs. , but can be done 
in less. 

The peak has also been scaled by 
the great W. face, by the S. arete 
from the Schallijoch, and by the 
great N.E. face and N. ridge from the 
Bies gl., but all these routes are 
difficult and dangerous in varying 
degrees, and cannot be recommended 
for general adoption. 

(k) The Mischabelhorner.— This 
is the loftiest of all the ridges round 
Zermatt, next after that of Monte 
Rosa itself. It is crowned by two 
pointed summits (visible from Zermatt 
itself) of nearly equal height : the 
N. summit is the Do??i (4,554 m., 
14,942 ft.), the highest peak in Swit- 
zerland after the Dufourspitze, and 
the S. one is the Tdschhorn (4,498 m. , 
14,758 ft.) Between them is the 
lofty Do??ijoch (4,286 m., 14,062 ft.) 
These two summits and the ridges 
N. and S. of them are sometimes 
called the Saasgrat. The ridge con- 
tinues N.E. from the Dom, and at 
Siidlenzspitze (4,300 m., 14,108 ft.) 
sends off a great buttress to the N. W. , 
which is crowned by the Nadelhorn 
(4,334 m., 14,220 ft.) and the Hoh- 
berghom (4,226 m., 13,865 ft.) This 
buttress divides the Hohberg gl. from 
the extensive Ried gl., and is often 
called the Nadelgrat ; its higher 
points may be climbed from the 
Randa side, but are more usually 
ascended from Saas, and so may be 
considered in Rte. O. below. The 
Dom was first ascended in 1858 by 
the Rev. J. LI. Davies, who, with the 
Rev. J. W. Hay ward, was also the 
conqueror, in 1862, of the Taschhorn. 
The usual starting point for the Dom 
(as well as for the Nadelgrat, if climbed 
from this side) is now the new Festi 



5io PENNINE ALPS. § 20. MONTE ROSA DISTRICT 



Club hut (2,936 m., 9,633 ft.), on the 
r. bank of the Festi gl., which flows 
due W. from the desired peak (3 hrs. 
from Randa). Hence a gap in the 
ridge dividing the Festi and Hohberg 
gls. is gained, and then this ridge 
followed to the top, which may also 
be gained by the great snowy N. face. 
By neither route is any serious diffi- 
culty encountered. 6-7 hrs. are 
required from the Club hut. The 
view from the summit is considered 
by Mr. Stephen (who made the 
second ascent) as ' the very finest in 
the Alps,' and this opinion has been 
confirmed by many other competent 
iudges. The ascent of the Dom from 
Saas by the E. face is difficult, and 
very dangerous by reason of falling 
stones. Active climbers may, how- 
ever, follow the ridge from the Dom 
across to the Taschhorn, and descend 
to the Zermatt valley by the Domjoch 
(this is a magnificent climb in fine 
weather) ; or may first take the Tasch- 
horn from the Mischabeljoch and 
then the Dom. 

The Taschhorn is less easy of 
access. It is necessary to bivouac 
under a rock near the end of the 
Kien gl. (3 hrs. from Randa), and 
then to make a way up the N. arm of 
that gl. to its head, whence a steep 
climb up snow or ice slopes leads to a 
high gap in the S.W. arete, by which 
the ascent is completed (6-7 hrs. from 
the bivouac). The summit may also 
be gained from the Tasch alp inn, or 
the Mischabeljoch, by the long and 
usually heavily-corniched S.E. ridge, 
while the climb up the E. face from 
Saas is very steep, though not as 
dangerous as that of the Dom from 
the same side. 

(/) The Alphubel, the Allalinhorn, 
and the Strahlhorn may all be made 
the object of a visit from Zermatt, 
but are usually climbed on the way 
over one or other of the passes to the 
Saas valley, and may best be de- 
scribed in connection with these 
(Rte. O. below). 

(m) The Rimpfischhorn. — This 
summit, too, may be gained from 



either of the passes between which it 
lies, but, though the view thence 
over Piedmont is perhaps not so fine 
as from the slightly lower Strahlhorn, 
it is more frequently ascended direct 
from Zermatt, and so may best 
find a place among the ascents from 
Zermatt. The first ascent was made 
by Messrs. Leslie Stephen and 
Liveing in 1859. The start may be 
made from either of the inns on the 
RifYel, but now most conveniently 
from the little inn on the Fluh alp, 
2.\ hrs. above Zermatt. Thence the 
long ridge of the Rimpfischivcinge, 
projecting far to the W. from the 
peak, is easily gained, and followed to 
the foot of the final rocks, the climb 
up which seems more formidable 
from a distance than it is in reality. 
5-6 hrs. are required for the ascent 
from the Fluh alp. Good climbers 
will find it an interesting rock climb 
of 3 hrs. from the Adler Pass, or of 
5 hrs. from the Allalin Pass. 

In bringing to an end this brief 
sketch of the chief excursions and 
ascents round Zermatt, it may be as 
well to add that a very favourite and 
easy excursion is to the summit of the 
St. Theodule Pass (described in the 
next Rte.), whether the ascent of the 
Breithorn be combined with it or not. 



Route B. 

ZERMATT TO CHATILLON BY THE ST. 
THEODULE PASS. ASCENTS FROM 
BREUIL. 

The St. Theodule is one of the 

most frequented, and in fine weather 
one of the easiest, glacier passes in 
the Alps. Mules may sometimes be 
taken across from Zermatt to Breuil, 
and in any case go on the Swiss side 
nearly as far as the lower inn, and on 
the Italian side up to the foot of the 
gl. The short bit of gl. on the 
Italian side is easy ; the longer gl. 



ROUTE B. ZERMATT TO CHATILLON 



on the Swiss side is also quite easy, 
but large concealed crevasses do 
often occur, so that the rope should 
never be neglected, however unneces- 
sary it may seem ; and though good 
climbers may dispense with a guide, 
yet they should never go less than 
three. Accidents of a fatal kind 
have followed on the neglect of these 
obvious precautions. The inn on the 
summit of the pass has been much 
improved of late, and is used as a 
starting point by those who wish to 
secure an unclouded view from the 
Breithorn. Ascending from Zermatt 
3 hrs. suffice to reach the lower inn, 
and I hr. more to gain the pass, 
whence it is an easy 2 hrs. down to 
Breuil ; in the reverse direction 
reckon 3 hrs. up from Breuil and 
2§-3 hrs. for the descent to Zermatt. 

There is no certain evidence that 
the Theodule was known to the 
Romans, but it was certainly tra- 
versed in the Middle Ages. The 
first distinct mention of it is by 
^Egidius Tschudi in his treatise * De 
prisca ac vera Alpina Rhaetia ' (1538), 
who calls it ' Mons Gletscher. ' Other 
sixteenth -century topographers give 
it also the names of ' Mons Matter,' 
' Mons Sylvius, ' and ' the pass to 
Aosta. ' The two former names were 
gradually transferred to the great peak 
on the W., though the pass is still 
sometimes called Matterjoch. One 
or two writers even call it ' Mont 
Rose 9 (roese = glacier). But it is better 
known as the St. TheodiUe, from a 
great wooden statue of that saint 
(the first bishop of Sion and the 
patron saint of the Vallais) which 
existed there at the end of the seven- 
teenth century, about the time when 
a redoubt was thrown up on the pass 
by order of the duke of Savoy then 
(1688) seeking to prevent the Wal- 
densians from re-entering their native 
valleys near Turin. 

The mule track from Zermatt 
passes along the I. bank of the Visp, 
crosses the stream from the Z'Mutt 
gl. by the second or higher bridge, 
and beyond the Zum See huts splits 



into two branches. That to the r, 
leads to the Staffel Alp. The way 
to the St. Theodule lies up the /, 
branch, and at the next bifurcation, 
a little above, the /. branch must be 
again taken (the r. one going to the 
Schwarzsee inn). The ascent has now- 
become steeper, and in about 2 hrs, 
from Zermatt the grassy pastures give 
way to the moraines of the Theodule 
gl. and the smooth rocks below 
them. The mule path is, however, 
taken over these to within a short 
distance of the lower inn, on the 
Leichenbretter rocks. 

[Here falls in the route for pedes- 
trians only, from the Riffel inns — \ hr. 
shorter than that from Zermatt — 
which crosses the Gorner gl. , and 
then mounts along the E. edge of 
the Leichenbretter rocks. J 

The ascent over the Theodule 
gl. is easy, though it is laborious 
after a fall of snow. There is 
usually a well-defined track over it 
in a due S. direction, which leads to 
the rock ridge of the Col (3,322 m., 
10,899 ft. ) 5 minutes' ascent from the 
snow up screes is the inn. On about 
this spot Saussure spent 3 days in 
1792 in a temporary shed, making, 
during his stay, the first ascent of the 
Klein Matterhorn. Meteorological 
observations were made, at the ex- 
pense of M. Dollfus-Ausset, of 
Basel, in the inn for three successive 
winters, about 1865. 

[Mountaineers may take a shorter 
route from Zermatt to Breuil. This 
is the Furggjock (3,357 m. , 1 1,014ft. ), 
at the very foot of the Matterhorn. 
It is the most direct route from the 
Schwarzsee Hotel. On the Swiss 
side the Furgg gl. is traversed, and 
there is another smaller gl. on the 
Italian side, but this pass presents 
no real difficulties. So much cannot 
be said of two other passes between 
the same places. These lie between 
the Matterhorn and the Dent 
d'Herens. The more easterly is the 
Col du Lion (3,577 m., 11,736 ft.), 
the ascent to which on the Swiss 
side is by an excessively difficult and 



512 PENNINE ALPS. § 20. 



MONTE ROSA DISTRICT 



dangerous couloir, though the Italian 
side is perfectly easy. The other pass 
is the Col de Toiirnanche (3,468 m. , 
11,378 ft.), which is very steep and 
long on both sides.] 

The view from the pass may be 
greatly extended in the direction of 
the Dent Blanche, &c. , by climbing 
in \ hr. the Theodulhorn (3,472 m. , 
1 1,392 ft. ), just N. of the pass. A 
still wider prospect may be obtained 
from the Klein Matter horn, 3,886 m. , 
12,750 ft. (2 hrs.), a detached peak 
of bold form lying a little S. of the 
ridge connecting the Breithorn with 
the St. Theodule. This is most 
easily gained by snow slopes on its S. 
side from the route to the Breithorn. 
The Breithorn (4,171 m., 13,685 ft.) 
is, however, the favourite excursion. 
This is the massive, nearly flat- 
topped mountain which forms the W. 
end of the chain stretching from the 
Monte Rosa cluster of peaks. On 
the N. side it presents ranges of 
dark rocks rising above steep snow 
slopes and glaciers ; it can be as- 
cended on this side, but the climb 
is steep and rather dangerous. On 
the S. side it is perfectly easy of 
access (2J--3 hrs. up from the pass) 
by a continuous snow slope of 
moderate inclination ; but the snow 
is exposed to the southern sun, so 
that it soon becomes soft, and hence 
an early start from the St. Theodule 
inn is advisable. The first ascent of 
this now frequently visited moun- 
tain seems to have been made by a 
French traveller, M. Henri Maynard, 
in 18 1 3, with J. M. Couttet, one of 
Saussure's guides, who had been 
with him in 1792 on the neighbour- 
ing Klein Matterhorn. The first 
English traveller who is known to 
have certainly reached the summit 
is Sir John Herschel, whose expedi- 
tion was made in 1821 or 1822, for 
Lord Minto's ascent appears to have 
taken place in 1830, though it is 
sometimes dated in 18 18. 

[The traveller bound from the St. 
Theodule to the Ayas glen may reach 
Fiery, at its head, in 3 hrs. or so, 



either by keeping nearly due S. from 
the St. Theodule, and crossing a gap 
N. of the Col des Cimes Blanches, 
or by bearing due S. from the great 
snowy plateau just S. of the Breit- 
horn, and going down the E. branch 
of the Aventina gl.] 

In descending from the St. 
Theodule on the Italian side the 
traveller must avoid the broad smooth 
basin of neve before him, and bear 
well to the right, the track lying for 
about J hr. over gl. and below the 
remains of the redoubt of 1688. At 
the foot of the gl. a good new mule 
path leads over some rocks, and then 
over pastures to the Hotel du Mont 
Cervin (2,097 m., 6,880 ft.), now 
much enlarged and very good head- 
quarters. This is often said to be at 
Breuil, but is really at the Jomein or 
Giomein huts, the true Breuil huts 
lying in the basin below (2,004 m -> 
6,575 ft.}, and having a small inn to 
themselves. To avoid confusion, 
however, the Giomein inn will in 
these pages continue to be named 
Breuil. 

Breuil is an excellent station for 
the botanist, who, among other rare 
Alpine plants, may find Saponaria 
lutea, Silene vallesia, Trifolium 
saxatz'le, Potentilla norvegica, and 
P. nivea. 

[A very fine view of the Matter- 
horn may be gained from the Motta 
di Plete, 2,889 m -> 9A79 ft- (2 hrs., 
accessible on mule back), and a still 
better one from the Gran Sometta 
(3,167 m., 10,391 ft.), on the E., a 
point which may easily be climbed 
from the Col des Cimes Blanches 
(described in Rte. G) on the way 
over to the Ayas glen. J 

Mountaineers will find many 
ascents to make round Breuil. The 
chief, of course, is that of the 
Matterhorn, described in Rte A. 
3. d. The Dent d'flerens (4, 180 m. , 
13,715 ft.) can be gained from Breuil 
by way of the Col des Grandes 
Murailles, on its S. , which is attained 
by the difficult Mont Tabel gl. in 
7-9 hrs. A harder route up the 



ROUTE B. ZERMATT TO CHATILLON 



513 



peak is by way of the S.E. and E. 
ridges. 

[There are no easy passes across the 
jagged line of peaks stretching S. of 
the Dent d'Herens till beyond the 
Chateau des Dames, though several 
high gaps have been traversed by 
adventurous climbers seeking routes 
from the head of the Val Tournanche 
to that of the Valpelline. But many 
of the peaks on this lofty ridge 
(enumerated in detail in § 19. Rte. 
F) offer good rock climbs, which may 
best be undertaken from the inn at 
Breuil. The Pointe des Cors, 3,855 
m. , 12,648 ft. (8 hrs. ), is attained from 
the Cors huts by a route always bear- 
ing N., and a traverse under the 
Punta Giordano. The Punt a Lioy 
(c. 4,000 m., 13,124 ft.) is climbed 
in 11 hrs. direct up the face. The 
gap between the Jumeaux de Val- 
tournanche can be reached by ascend- 
ing to the cliffs under the Bee de 
Guin, and then bearing N. for 3 hrs. 
From this gap either of the Jumeaux 
(P. Giordano, 3,873 m., 12,707 ft., 
N. peak; P. Sella, 3,860m., 12,665 
ft., S. peak) can be ascended in \ hr. 
The Bee de Guin, 3,805 m., 12,484 ft. 
(7 hrs.), is gained by way of the 
Bayettes huts, a traverse 1. across the 
rock wall to the ridge S. of the sum- 
mit, and then along this ridge. By 
turning S. on attaining the ridge the 
Bee de Cretan (3,637 m., 11,933 
may be climbed. The Tour de Creto7i 
(3,583 m., 11,756 ft.) may be reached 
in about 2 hrs. from the lofty Col de 
Creton, to its S. For the ascent of 
the Chateau des Dames and its 
neighbours see § 19. Rte. F.J 

The mule track below Breuil enters 
a ravine and is carried along a steep 
slope of rock to the little chapel of 
N.D. de la Garde. It then traverses 
a green basin, below which the 
torrent has cut a very deep cleft 
through the serpentine rock, so 
narrow that in some places the op- 
posite walls are in actual contact. 
This spot, called the Gouffre des 
Busserailles , has been made accessible 
from below and deserves a visit, 
I. 



which well rewards the slight loss of 
time involved. Lower down the 
path crosses the torrent, and follows 
the r. bank until, after returning to 
the other bank, a short ascent leads to 
the principal hamlet in the valley, 

Paquier, called commonly Val- 
tournanclie, 1,524 m. , 5,000 ft. (2 hrs, 
from Breuil. ) The view hence down the 
valley, closed by the distant peak of the 
Tersiva, in the mountains of Cogne, 
is extremely fine. 

[The ascent of the Grand Tour- 
nalin (3,379 m., 11,086 ft), on the 
E. , can be made in 5 hrs. , there being 
a mule path to the summit, on which 
is the Carrel Club hut, and is strcngly 
recommended, as the panorama is su- 
perb. It can be taken on the way 
over to S. Giacomo d'Ayas or to Fiery. 
For the ascent of the Chateau des 
Dames and its neighbours on the W. , 
and for the passes to the Valpelline, 
see § 19. Rte. F, and for the passes to 
the Val St. Barthelemy see § 19. 
Rte. G. ad finj\ 

There is now a char road from the 
village all the way to Chatillon 
(11 m.) After descending the steep 
hill on which stands the village it 
passes nearly all the way along the r. 
bank of the torrent, amidst very 
beautiful scenery, the chestnut and 
walnut trees often forming a frame- 
work for the Matterhorn, which is 
seen on looking backward. On the 
way some extraordinary remains of a 
fifteenth- century aqueduct may be 
seen high up on the face of the rock 
on the r., built to supply water to 
the hamlet of St. Denis, above Cham- 
bave, in the Dora Baltea valley. 
These are continued at intervals for 
several miles. The finest portion 
consists of several arches, very perfect, 
hanging like a picture against a nearly 
perpendicular cliff, several hundred 
feet above the valley, opposite the 
village of Antey. Near the latter 
village another aqueduct (thirteenth 
century) on the 1. bank of the valley 
leads down to the upper slopes above 
Chatillon and St. Vincent, this too 
being seen in part from the valley 
L L 



5 H PENNINE ALPS. § 20. 

road. The road for the last 2 m. 
rises Ingh above the torrent, but 
pedestrians can find a path near the 
stream, leading more directly to 
Chatillon. (Those who are bound 
from Zermatt to the valley of Ayasmay 
combine the finest part of the scenery 
of the Val Tournanche with a tolerably 
direct route to the former valley by 
crossing the Col de Portola from 
Antey to Ayas, Rte. H. ) 

Chatillon (551 m., 1,808 ft.) is a 
large village, the next in importance 
to Aosta, in the Dora valley, standing 
at the junction of the Val Tournanche 
with the Dora Baltea or Aosta valley. 
It is now a station on the railway 
from Ivrea to Aosta ( 15 J m. from the 
latter city), described in § 15. Rte. A. 
The chief objects of interest at Cha- 
tillon are the bridges. A Roman 
arch, still standing, is surmounted by 
a later bridge, which in its turn was 
superseded by the modern structure, 
a single arch, boldly thrown across at 
a great height above the stream. 
Ruined chateaux on the heights add 
to the picturesqueness of this part of 
the wonderful Aosta valley. 



Route C. 

ZERMATT TOVERRES BY THE SCHWARZ- 
THOR AND THE VAL D'AYAS. 

It has been a difficult matter to 
decide how the valleys radiating from 
the S. and E. sides of the range of 
Monte Rosa, and the passes connected 
with them, may be most conveniently 
described. Formerly travellers, se- 
lecting either the higher passes nearest 1 
the central mass, or those more dis- 
tant and easier, made, either partially 
or completely, the circuit of the entire 
group included in the present Section. 
But since the number of known passes 
between the adjoining valleys has been 
largely increased, and mountaineers 
have found their way across the range I 



MONTE ROSA DISTRICT 

of Monte Rosa from Zermatt to the 
head of each of the four principal val- 
leys, over what was long deemed an 
impassable barrier, the number of 
possible routes open to visitors is mul- 
tiplied to an extent rather inconvenient 
to the writer of a guide-book. In this 
and the three following Rtes. the 
passes leading from Zermatt across 
the main range of Monte Rosa, and 
the course down each of these four 
valleys to its lower extremity (where 
a railway is joined), are described, 
while in the subsequent Rtes. are in- 
cluded some of the countless passes 
lying in the circuit round the S. and 
E. sides of the range. As the passes 
to be described in Rtes. C, D, E, and 
F are among the highest known in 
the Alps, there is a manifest advantage 
in taking them from the upper Riffel 
inn, though the Sesiajoch is so diffi- 
cult that it is better to ascend it from 
the Italian side. 

It has been already observed that 
the long, nearly flat-topped, ridge of 
the Breithorn presents, towards Zer- 
matt and the Gorner gl., ranges of 
very steep rocks. On its E. side it is 
separated from the broken masses of 
rock and ice that descend from the 
Zwillinge towards the Gorner gl. by 
the Schwarze gl. , which expands 
gradually in width as it descends from 
the crest of the ridge, and is usually 
broken into a sort of giant staircase 
by broad, parallel, transverse cre- 
vasses. This is bordered on the E. 
side by a range of nearly vertical 
rocks, facing a little N. of E., at 
first very lofty, but diminishing in 
height as the gl., towards its source, 
approaches the ridge. At the head 
of this gl. there is a small, gently- 
sloping plateau, enclosed, as within a 
black gateway, by the rocks of the 
Breithorn and of Pollux, the N.W. 
summit of the Zwillinge. This gate- 
way forms the pass of the Schwarzthor, 
first traversed in 1845 by Mr. Ball, 
whose vivid description of his passage, 
in the first series of ' Peaks, Passes, 
and Glaciers,' is well known. The 
Gorner gl. is gained by a descent, from 



ROUTE C. ZERMATT TO VERRES 



515 



the Monte Rosa path just E. of the 
Riffelhorn, and crossed to the foot of 
the ridge descending from Pollux. 
Higher up the crevassed portion of 
the Schwarze gl. may be turned by 
the rocks on the r. bank, but not 
unfrequently it is possible to ascend 
straight up from its foot. 5 hrs. 
suffice from the Riffel to the pass 
(3,741 m., 12,274 ft.), the view from 
which is limited by the projecting 
rocks of the Breithorn. 

[But it is easy to obtain a fine 
panorama by climbing Pollux (4,094 
m., 13,433 ft.) by its S.W. arete or S. 
face (I \ hr.), while Castor (4,230 m., 
13,879 ft. ) may be ascended by its W. 
face in 2 hrs. from the Schwarzthor. 
The two may thus be easily combined 
in the same excursion, and the return 
made by the Felikjoch, Rte. D, 
though now the new Club hut at the 
N. foot of Monte Rosa enables the 
expedition to be taken even better in 
the reverse direction. From Castor 
it is perfectly easy to go down due S. 
in 2 hrs. to the Quintino Sella Club 
hut (3,601 m., 11,815 ft.), on the 
ridge between the Ayas and Lys 
valleys ; see Rte. D.J 

On the Italian side it is necessary 
to keep at first to the 1. along the base 
of Pollux, and then to bear S.W., so 
as to gain the snow at the W. base of 
the great rock ridge dividing the two 
arms of the Verra gl. The descent is 
completed by the 1. bank of the W. 
arm (the E. arm is practicable, but 
harder), and so the highest Verra hut 
is reached. Some way beyond, at 
the meeting point of the two branches 
of the Ayas valley, are the huts of 
Fiery (1,878 m., 6,162 ft.), where 
there is now a very comfortable and 
finely-situated inn, the best headquar- 
ters in these parts (4 hrs. from the 
Schwarzthor). (Hence it is 5-6 hrs. 
up to the Quintino Sella Club hut, 
mentioned above, while the passes to 
the neighbouring Italian valleys are 
described in Rtes. G and H. ) 

[In 1863 Mr. S. Winkworth effected 
a pass, now called the Zwillings or 
Verra Pass (3,861 m., 12,668 ft.), 



between the two summits of the 
Zwillinge. The ascent on the Swiss 
side, by the Zwillings gl. and an ice 
slope, is much steeper than that to the 
Schwarzthor, while on the Italian side 
the route of the last-named pass is 
soon joined. Either of the Zwillinge 
is easily accessible in i-i \ hr. from 
this pass, which may serve as a varia- 
tion on the Schwarzthor. J 

Fiery stands at the junction of the 
torrents from the Verra gl. and of the 
Aventina gl. , the united stream being 
called Evancon, a name spelt in dif- 
ferent ways. The dialect of the in- 
habitants of the upper part of the 
valley is rather different from the 
usual patois of the tributary glens of 
the Dora Baltea valley, and may re- 
present an early form of Romance. 
f hr. below Fiery is the first hamlet, 
S. Jacques, or San Giacomo d^Ayas 
(1,676 m. , 5,499 ft.) Lower down 
(char road all the way to Verres) the 
scenery is very beautiful, and deserves 
more attention from English travellers 
than it has yet received. It is a walk of 
3 hrs. more, passing about half-way 
the chief village, Ayas (1,710 m., 
5,610 ft.), and the vestiges of a lake 
caused by a great landslip, to Brtisson 
(1,332 m., 4,370 ft.), a finely-situated 
village (with a good mountain inn) on 
the most frequented route from Aosta 
to Gressoney (see Rte. I). (A traveller 
bound from Fiery to Chatillon by the 
Col de Joux need not descend as far 
as Brusson, but may find a path which 
leaves the valley higher up. ) Below 
Brusson the valley is called Val Chal- 
lant. It is 3 hrs. from Brusson to 
Verres, beneath the fine ruins of the 
castle of Graines, and past several 
villages of Challant, which gave their 
name to a powerful mediaeval feudal 
dynasty, the lords of the entire Ayas 
valley. It is said that the inhabitants 
of certain villages in the glen held 
their lands by the quaint tenure of 
covering with earth the gl. on the 
Becca Torche (3,015 m., 9,892 ft.), 
S.E. of Brusson, so that the com- 
plexions of the ladies of the house of 
Challant might not suffer from the 

L L 2 



516 PENNINE ALPS. § 20. MONTE ROSA DISTRICT 



glare during their summer sojourn at 
their castle of Graines. 

The way down the valley is through- 
out very beautiful, but it is very hot, 
and many cretins and goitred persons 
are seen, though not in such large 
numbers as in former years. Verres 
is a station on the railway from Ivrea 
to Aosta, 18 m. from Ivrea, and 23^ 
m. from Aosta, which is described in 
§ 15. Rte. A. 



Route D. 

ZERMATT TO PONT ST. MARTIN BY 
THE LYSJOCH AND THE VAL DE LYS. 

It has been already pointed out 
(Rte. A) that the greatest of the 
tributary glaciers flowing from the 
mass of Monte Rosa is the Grenz gl. , 
which descends from the great snowy 
plateau forming the central portion of 
that group, and lying between the 
Dufourspitze and the Lyskamm. As 
it is well seen from the Gornergrat it 
was natural that soon after the open- 
ing in 1854 of the inn on the Riffel 
mountaineers should seek a way 
•across the ridge at the head of this 
plateau into the Val de Lys, or 
Gressoney valley. This was success- 
fully achieved in 1859 by Messrs. W. 
and G. S. Mathews. But many years 
previously this watershed had been 
reached and traversed, though the 
descent to the Gorner gl. had never 
before been made. In the Val de Lys 
there was a tradition that behind the 
snowy ranges which close its head 
there was a ' lost valley,' and it was 
to verify this that in 1778 seven 
young men of Gressoney, led by N. 
Vincent, set out on an adventurous 
quest. This party gained a rocky 
tooth just W. of the lowest depression 
in that ridge {\ hr. W. of the point 
crossed by the route of the Lysjoch), 
and on the watershed. This was 
named by them the ' Discovery Rock ' 



(' Entdeckungsfels '), as from it they 
looked down on the 'lost valley,' 
filled in its higher part by the ice 
stream of the Gorner gl. , and girdled 
by a long line of savage peaks from 
the Mischabelhorner to the Dent 
Blanche. Many years later this ridge 
was traversed to the great snowy 
plateau on the N., first by Zumstein 
and J. N. Vincent (son of the hero of 
1778), in 1820, when on their way up 
the Zumsteinspitze, and later in 1842 
by Signor Gnifetti, on his way to the 
conquest of the Signalkuppe or Punta 
Gnifetti, not to mention the other 
expeditions of the adventurers before 
their final successes. But as a pass 
the Lysjoch was discovered and 
crossed in 1859 only. It is an easy 
expedition, but is very laborious if 
the snow is soft, so that an early 
start is most desirable, io-ii hrs. 
suffice from the RifTel to Gressoney 
under ordinary circumstances. 

The first part of the route, as far 
as the Betemps Club hut on the 
Plattje rocks, is identical with that 
to the Dufourspitze (2 \ hrs. ) The 
Grenz gl. may be ascended without 
difficulty, but it is best, when high 
up, to make a bend towards the E. , 
as the true pass, the lowest depression, 
is defended by an ice precipice, so 
that the ridge must be crossed at the 
next gap to the E., between a snow 
dome and the Parrotspitze. On the 
way up to the pass the traveller 
crosses the Grand Plateau of Monte 
Rosa, a nearly level snow tract, more 
than I m. in breadth, and about 
4,200 m. (13,780 ft.) in height, the 
S. peaks of Monte Rosa rising round 
it as low hills of snow, broken by 
projecting rocks. The pass is 
4,277 m. (14,033 ft.), and commands, 
as might be expected from its great 
height, a glorious view. The traveller 
looks upon the great plain of Pied- 
mont, enclosed by the Ligurian 
Appennines, and the curving line of 
the Maritime and Cottian Alps, from 
which, at a distance of nearly 100 
miles, rises the noble pinnacle of Monte 
Viso. In the immediate foreground 



ROUTE D. ZERMATT TO PONT ST. MARTIN 517 



is the broad eastern arm of the Lys 
gl., bounded on the r. by a long 
spur of the Lyskamm, and on the 1. 
by the line of peaks from the Parrot- 
spitze to the Vincent Pyramide. 

[From the pass most of the minor 
summits of Monte Rosa, from the 
Parrotspitze southwards, can be 
climbed directly in 1 hr. or less, 
while the Lyskamm is accessible in 
3 hrs. along the E. arete, on which 
great care is always required, as it is 
often heavily corniched.j] 

In about I hr. the descent is made 
without difficulty by the E. side of 
the E. arm of the Lys gl. to the 
Gnifetti Club hut (3,647 m., 11,966 
ft.), on the Hohlicht. the best head- 
quarters for all expeditions on the S. 
side of the mass of Monte Rosa. 

[Hence there is. a very fine view 
over the wide E. arm of the Lys gl., 
which unites with the W. arm, flow- 
ing from between the Lyskamm and 
Castor, below the steep rocky pro- 
montory called the Nase. This is 
the S. end of the great S. buttress of 
the Lyskamm, and its highest point 
is 3,719 m. (12,202 ft.) It may be 
easily visited from the Club hut by 
crossing the E. arm of the Lys gl., 
and, notwithstanding its great height, 
produces several kinds of flowering 
plants.] 

[From the Gnifetti hut the inn on 
the Col d'Olen can be reached in 1 
hr., or Alagna, in the Sesia valley, 
in 3 hrs. ; for both, the Garstelet and 
then the Indren gls. are crossed in a 
S.E. direction to the Colle delle 
Pisse. To gain the inn hence it is 
necessary to keep nearly due S. by a 
good made path, while if bound for 
Alagna the track from the Colle 
delle Pisse is followed in an E. di- 
rection down the Bors glen to the 
main Sesia valley, which is descended 
past the Pile Alp to Alagna. J 

\ hr. below the Gnifetti hut is 
the ruined Linty hut, on the Unter- 
licht. Hence there are several ways 
to Gressoney (3 hrs. from the higher 
hut). The usual way descends nearly 
due S. to the Lavetz chalets, a little 



beyond which the Col d'Olen mule 
rack is struck, and followed past 
Orsia to Gressoney La Trinite, but 
it is a more attractive route to leave 
the mule track at the first Gabiet 
chalets, and descend past the lake of 
that name and through the lateral 
! glen of Netschio direct to Gressoney 
La Trinite. It is also possible to go 
S.W. from the Linty hut, and trar 
verse the Sahafui'ka to the glen of 
the same name, by which the Cortlis 
chalet (2,007 m -i 6,585 fu) is at- 
tained, 

[In 1 86 1 Messrs. W. Mathews 
and F. W. Jacomb discovered a 
lower but more difficult pass from the 
Riffel to the Val de Lys, which can 
also be used as a route to the Ayas 
glen.. This is the Felikjoch (4,068m., 
13,347 ft.), between Castor and the 
Lyskamm. The ascent from the 
Riffel across the Gorner and up the 
crevassed Zwillings gl. takes about 
5 J hrs. From the pass the Lyskamm 
can be climbed by a very long and in 
part narrow arete, while Castor can 
be gained in 1 hr. by an easy snow 
ridge, and is worth ascending for the 
very fine panorama to be obtained 
from the summit. The point at 
which the ridge is passed lies close to 
the £. foot of Castor, the lowest de- 
pression lying farther E., above an 
ice precipice the descent of which by 
mistake has cost one party their lives. 
Thus the actual line which must be 
taken does not lead from the Zwil- 
lings to the Lys gl., as might be 
expected, but from the Zwillings gl. 
to the Felik gl., near the ridge 
between the Lys and Ayas valleys. 
On this ridge, due S. of Castor, is 
the Quintino Sella Club hut (3,601 m. , 
11,815 ft.), gained in about 1 hr. 
from the pass by most parties, whether 
bound for Gressoney or Fiery, unless 
those bound to the latter village 
prefer to bear S.W. much higher up, 
and go down the narrow Castor gl. 
and the E. side of the E. arm of the 
Verra gl. direct. From the Club hut 
Fiery may be reached in 3 hrs. by 
descending S. towards the Bettliner 



Si? PENNINE ALPS. § 20. MONTE ROSA DISTRICT 



Pass, and crossing the ridge to the 
N. of that pass, so as to gain the 
chalets at the foot of the Verra gl. 
Travellers bound for Gressoney may 
gain the Cortlis chalet direct from the 
pass by going from the Felik gl. by 
a rocky ravine to the moraine on the 
r. bank of the Lys gl. From the 
Club hut, however, Gressoney may 
be more conveniently gained by going 
S. to the Bettliner Pass track, not far 
from that pass, and then following it 
to the Cortlis hut. J 

This chalet commands a fine view 
of the Lys gl. and the peaks around 
it, and was used as night quarters by 
some of the early explorers of this 
district ; this is no longer possible 
without permission from the owner, 
M. de Peccoz, and its place has 
been taken by the Q. Sella Club hut. 
(From Cortlis the Telchenhorn, 
2,834 m., 9,298 ft., may be as- 
cended in 2 hrs. , and commands a 
very fine view of the neighbouring 
gls. ) It is about I hr. down the 
valley from Cortlis to Gressoney La 
Trinite. On the way the hunting 
box of Stave I (the summer sojourn of 
the Queen of Italy) is passed. It 
belongs to the Baron de Peccoz, 
whose family, of Gressoney origin, 
made its fortune in Germany and 
was ennobled by the late King of 
Bavaria. The late Baron was a 
great chamois hunter, and in his 
house at Gressoney St. Jean is 
deposited his collection of stuffed 
animals and birds, killed by himself, 
which deserves a visit. At Orsia 
the mule track from the Col d'Olen 
is joined. 

Gressoney is the name of the basin 
which includes all the upper part of 
the Val de Lys. The upper village 
is called Gressoney La Trinite (1,627 
m -» 5 > 338 ft.)) an d is about 4 m. (-| 
hr.'s drive) by a carriage road from 
the lower village, Gressoney St. Jean 
(1,385 m., 4,544 ft.). 20 min. below 
La Trinite, in a very fine position at 
a sudden drop in the valley, is the 
new and splendid Hotel Miravalle. 
Some way below is Noversch, the 



home of Zumstein, one of the early 
explorers of the upper regions of the 
Monte Rosa group. The situation 
of these villages, amidst meadows 
and fruit trees, in a green basin 
formed by the widening of the 
valley, and yet in full view of the 
eternal snows, is very beautiful. 
The best book on the region is that 
by Signori V. Sella and D. Vallino, 
mentioned in the Introduction to this 
Section, while the Gressoney Section 
of Ratti and Casanova's 6 Guida II- 
lustrata della Valle d'Aosta ' appeared 
in a separate and revised form in 

1897. 

[Many pleasant excursions and 
ascents may be made in the neigh- 
bourhood. Foremost among them is 
a visit to the Gnifetti, or the 
Q. Sella Club huts (5-6 hrs.), whence 
there are very fine views, easily ex- 
tended by ascending some of the 
neighbouring eminences. The Corno 
Bianco (3,320 m., 10,893 &«) mav 
be best reached by the Rissuolo pass 
and the S.E. ridge, and may be 
taken on the way over to Alagna. 
Other ascents are more conveniently 
described in connection with the 
easy passes whence they are best 
made — the Telchenhorn (see above), 
the Grauhaupt (Rte. H), and the 
Mont Neri and the Combetta 
(Rte. I).] 

The traveller will be struck by the 
fact that the tongue spoken in the 
Gressoney basin is German, resem- 
bling the dialect prevailing in the 
upper Vallais. It is known that 
long before 12 18 this basin was a 
fief of the Bishop of Sion, who, 
probably before that date, brought in 
Vallaisan colonists over the St. 
Theodule. Some poems in the local 
dialect are printed in Signor Sella's 
book. The Vallaisan settlement 
here has historically nothing to do 
with that at Macugnaga, which is 
known to have taken place from the 
Saas valley in the second half of the 
thirteenth century. 

There is now a first-rate carriage 
road from St. Jean to Pont St. Martin 



ROUTE D. ZERMATT 



TO PONT ST. MARTIN 519 



(about 17 m., 3 J hrs. 5 drive). About 
J hr. below St. Jean the valley con- 
tracts. The road crosses to the r. bank 
of the stream on leaving the Gressoney 
basin, and is very picturesque beyond, 
being carried among huge blocks 
that have fallen from the heights 
above. After a double crossing it 
returns to the L bank at Gaby, where 
the appearance of the walnut denotes 
a change of climate. 

[Hence several passes lead over 
in 5 hrs. to Piedicavallo, at the head 
of the Andorno valley : see Rte. K.J 

Beyond is (8J- m. ) Issime, about 
half-way between St. Jean and Pont 
St. Martin. 

[Hence the Mont Neri (3,070 m., 
10,073 ft-) ma y be reached in 6 hrs. 
by way of the Col de Chasten, while 
the Becca Torche (3,01 5 m. , 9,892 ft. ) 
— celebrated from the quaint feudal 
tenure connected with it (see Rte. 
C) — is accessible in 6 hrs. by way of 
the Col de Dondenil, leading over to 
Verres. Both summits command 
magnificent panoramic views.] 

Below Issime the torrent traverses 
the remarkably deep and narrow 
Guillemore chasm, which it has cut 
through the gneiss rock. The differ- 
ence between ice-worn and water- 
worn rocks may be well studied here, 
as they are seen in close proximity. 
The chestnut becomes the prevailing 
tree as the traveller descends to 
(2 J m. ) Fontainemore, where the 
new road crosses to the 1. bank. 

[A path leads hence in about 6 hrs. 
to the Sanctuary of Oropa, Rte. K, 
by the Col delta Banna d' Oropa 
(2,261 m., 7,418 ft.) The ascent is 
rather long through a lateral glen 
richly wooded below, wild and stony 
towards the top. Thence to the 
Alpe della Strada, about I hr. above 
Oropa, the path is faintly traced, and 
a guide is almost necessary.] 

The scenery of the main valley is 
throughout very fine. The first 
vines are met with at (if m. ) Lil- 
lianes (for the pass to Graglia see 
Rte. K). Hamlets and scattered 
houses are seen perched on steep 



slopes up to a height of 2,500 ft. 
above the stream. A steep descent 
over ice-worn rocks takes the traveller 
down to (4J m. ) Pont St. Martin, 
9J m. from Ivrea and *j\ from Verres, 
on the railway from Ivrea to Aosta, 
which is described in § .15. Rte. A. 



Route E, 

ZERMATT TO VARALLO BY THE SESIA- 
JOCH AND THE VAL SESIA. 

In a former edition the pass here 
described was not admitted without 
hesitation, and in the present edition 
it is retained for topographical reasons, 
so that this Rte. may range with its 
neighbours. The Sesiajoch must 
always be a difficult and dangerous 
expedition, especially the descent on 
the Italian side, made in 1869 by two 
English ladies, with Jean Martin. 
The pass itself was first crossed in 
1862 by Messrs. H. B. George and 
Mooie, and has since been traversed 
by a small number of travellers. 

A traveller who has reached the 
Grand Plateau of Monte Rosa, after 
ascending the Grenz gl. , has on -the E. 
the Signalkuppe, and on the S.E. 
the Parrotspitze, connected together 
by a ridge which rises about 300 ft. 
above the level of the Plateau. On 
gaining this ridge he looks down upon 
the Sesia gl., and the head of the 
Val Sesia, lying some 8,000 ft. below 
him, and separated by a series of 
precipices and ice slopes that are only 
less formidable in appearance than 
those of the E. face of Monte Rosa. 
The attempt to force a direct passage 
across this barrier, 4,424 m. , 14,515 ft. 
in height (one of the loftiest in 
the Alps), must be counted among 
the most daring exploits ever achieved 
in the Alps. The Editor (J. B. ) has been 
favoured with the following notes by 
Mr. H. B. George. The guides were 
Christian Aimer and Matthaus z. 



520 PENNINE ALPS. § 20. MONTE ROSA DISTRICT 



Taugwald : — ' We slept at some good 
chalets about 2f hrs. from Alagna, 
reached by the 1. bank of the torrent 
from the Sesia gl. , and left our 
quarters at 2.35 a.m. For 3 hrs. we 
marched over slopes generally knee- 
deep in rhododendron, and at last 
very stony, to a point some way up 
the 1. bank of the Sesia gl. After a 
short halt we made our way across 
the gl. to the r. -hand corner of the 
base of the Parrotspitze, which lay 
nearly opposite us, and began climbing 
the rocks of which it is composed. 
After 2 hrs. of very easy but rapid 
ascent we had some steep snow slopes 
to mount, and then came to the foot 
of the arete, which took us almost to 
the top. The ascent of this is an 
affair of extreme difficulty, and would 
scarcely have been possible but for 
Aimer's skill and determination. 
After climbing some way we bore 
to the r., and tried to get along the 
ice slope to the couloir between the 
Parrotspitze and the Signalkuppe, 
with a view to making our way up to 
the lowest point between them, but 
the couloir itself looked frightfully 
steep, besides being dangerous from 
avalanches : so we relinquished it for 
the arete. This consisted of extremely 
steep rocks, often affording very slight 
footing, intermixed with narrow edges 
of snow, so steep as hardly to admit of 
steps being cut in the sides of them. 
After 3! hrs. of this work we came to 
a slope of ice, covered a few inches 
deep with snow varying from 43 0 to 
50 0 , which in rather more than an 
hour, or nearly 1 3 hrs. from our starting 
point, brought us to the top, i.e. to a 
point on the ridge going up from the 
true pass to the Parrotspitze, about 
(?) 120 ft. below that peak, and 
perhaps 60 ft. above the true col, 
which is practically inaccessible. The 
descent of the Grenz gL was straight- 
forward. It would be impossible to 
take this pass from Zermatt, or either 
way late in the year when the snow 
was gone from the gaps in the rock 
arete, and off the snow slope below 
the top.. Christian Aimer led the 



way throughout, never being at fault 
for a moment, although he had only 
seen the mountain for 10 minutes 
through a break in the clouds two 
days before, our whole route re- 
maining in cloud till we were fairly 
on the base of the Parrotspitze. The 
view from the summit, including the 
Italian lakes and Monte Viso, was 
marvellous.' (H. B. G.) 

On the second passage the party 
slept at chalets higher up, and reached 

' the pass in 9 J hrs. , exclusive of halts. 
(The ridge between the Parrot - 

I spitze and the Ludwigshohe has also 
been crossed by a difficult pass, called 
Piodejoch, or Ippolita Pass. ) 

The Sesia gl. is formed in the 
angle between the E. ridge of Monte 

; Rosa, extending from the Signalkuppe 
to the Monte delle Loccie, and the 
S. ridge connecting the Parrotspitze 
and the Vincent Pyramide. Owing 
to the great steepness of the walls of 
rock that enclose it, no great accumu- 
lation of snow takes place at a high 
level, and the dimensions of the gl. 
are small as compared with the height 
of the neighbouring mountains. The 

: N. branch, now called the Vigne gl. , 
descends from the Col delle Loccie 
(Rte. G), and the S. branch is the 

■ Pi ode gl. 

To the S.W. of the Piode gl. , on 
the E. side of the ridge connecting the 

I Vincent Pyramide with the Colle 
delle Pisse (Rte. G), is the Bors gl. , 
which sends down its torrent through 

; the Bors glen to join the Sesia. 

\ Travellers visiting the Val Sesia 

; should not fail to approach the base 
of Monte Rosa at least as near as this 

! point, which may be reached in 2 hrs. 

< from Alagna. The view may rank 
as second only to that from above 
Macugnaga. A still nearer view may 
be gained by ascending the ridge N. 
of the Bors glen (1^ hr. from the Pile 
huts). At the head of the latter 
valley is seen a very fine waterfall, that 
of Pisse , (?) 600 ft. in height, fed by 
the snows of the Vincent Pyramide. 

In descending from the Piode gl. 
to Alagna it is best to keep to the 1. 



ROUTE E. ZERMATT TO VARALLO 



52i 



bank of the torrent until, after joining 
the track from theTurlo Pass(Rte. H), 
a bridge, with an oratory beside it, is 
crossed. The way then lies chiefly 
on the r. bank, again crossing and re- 
crossing the Sesia. In coming down 
from the Pile alp huts the path lies 
on the r. bank of the Sesia, descending 
a steep staircase of rock at the base of 
the Stoffelberg (which shuts out the 
view of Monte Rosa), until, at the 
oratory above mentioned, it joins the 
main track to Alagna. 

The position of Alagna (1,191 m., 
3,908 ft.) is not very striking, but the 
neighbourhood offers some of the finest 
scenery in the Alps. The fullest 
guide book for the Val Sesia and its 
tributary glens is that by F. Tonetti, 
published at Varallo itself. 

[Besides the passes described in 
Rtes. G, H (especially the Col 
d'Olen), and I, the mountaineer 
may devise many excursions of the 
highest interest. One deserving of 
especial notice, hitherto much ne- 
glected by English tourists, is the 
ascent of the Corno Bianco (3,320 
m., 10,893 ft.), the highest summit 
in the ranges S. of the mass of 
Monte Rosa. From Alagna it is best 
gained by way of Riva Valdobbia, 
the Vogna glen, the path to the Ris- 
suolo Pass, and the S.E. ridge (c. 7 
hrs. ), but the most convenient starting 
point is the Hospice on the Col de 
Valdobbia (Rte. I), whence the ascent 
takes 6 hrs. More difficult routes have 
been forced up from the Pujo gl. on 
the N.E. , and along the N, arete. J 

The upper part of the Val Sesia is 
German-speaking, the language being 
of the Upper Vallais type, though fre- 
quent intercourse with the Italian- 
speaking folk of the lower part of the 
valley has caused some intermixture 
of dialects. The Counts of Biandrate 
(who settled the Vallais colony at 
Macugnaga) were very powerful in the 
upper Val Sesia before 1270, and if 
the German-speaking population of 
Alagna and Riva was introduced by 
them it must have been before that 
date. But it is far more probable that 



it is an offshoot of the Vallais colony 
at Gressoney, with which place there 
is easy communication over low passes. 

There is now a good carriage road 
from Alagna to Varallo (23} m., 4 J 
hrs.' drive), the road keeping through- 
out on the 1. bank of the Sesia. 

1 \ m. below Alagna is Riva Val- 
dobbia (for the Col de Valdobbia see 
Rte. I), at the junction of the Vogna 
glen with the main valley. There is 
a striking contrast between the appar- 
ent poverty of the people and the 
comparative splendour of the church, 
covered without by fresco paintings of 
considerable merit, the work of a 
native artist, one of three brothers, all 
of whom attained great local celebrity. 
From the village there is a grand view 
of the peaks and glaciers at the head of 
the valley. The Abbe Carestia, of 
Riva, is an excellent botanist. The 
flora of the southern and eastern val- 
leys of Monte Rosa offers a great 
general resemblance, but includes 
several species very rare or unknown 
elsewhere in the Alps. Of these may 
be noted Senecio unifiorus, Campa- 
nula excisa, Potentilla gram??iopetala, 
and Saxifraga stenopetala. Still more 
interesting is the discovery by M. 
Carestia of Cherleria imbricata on the 
Nase, and near the old Vincent hut, 
above the Lys gl. 

Close to Riva the schists consti- 
tuting the rocks at the head of the 
Val Sesia give place to gneiss, which 
extends hence to the Val d'Aosta, and 
farther E. is represented by syenite. 

The descent is easy and agreeable 
from Riva to (5 J m.) Mollia. The 
valley, which is throughout its length 
very sinuous, here makes a sharp turn 
nearly due S. A little way beyond is 
(6 J m. ) Campertogno, soon after which 
there falls in from the W. the char 
road from Rassa, in Val Sorba, through 
which leads a pass to Piedicavallo 
(Rte. K). The scenery is extremely 
grand, though without distant views. 
At (9 m.) Piode the road turns E. 
and passes by ( 1 \\ m. ) Scopello, where 
formerly the copper ore raised near 
Alagna and elsewhere in the valley 



522 PENNINE ALPS. § 20. MONTE ROSA DISTRICT 



was smelted (now nickel and cobalt 
only), and where the valley bends N. 
of E. The next village is Scopa. The 
vegetation increases in richness as the 
road reaches (14J m. ) Balmuccia, at 
the junction of the Vao Sermenza, or 
Val Piccola (Rte. I), with the main 
valley, called, by contrast, Val Grande. 
Here the stream turns again due E, 
and the valley gradually opens out as 
the traveller approaches Varallo. 

The situation of this little town, at 
the junction of the Val Sesia with the 
Val Mastallone (Rte. L), and in the 
immediate neighbourhood of much 
beautiful scenery, suffices to render it 
attractive. But the main object of 
interest to most visitors is the Sacro 
Monte, a famous Sanctuary founded 
in i486, and adorned by famous artists 
with works that mark a stage in the 
development of Italian art. The hill, 
now called Sacro Monte, is covered 
with a series of nearly fifty chapels or 
oratories, containing modelled groups 
of life size, painted and clothed, repre- 
senting events nearly ail taken from 
the New Testament. ( English readers 
may consult Mr. Samuel Butler's book, 
entitled ' Ex Voto Sacro Monte ; or, 
New Jerusalem at Varallo,' 1888.) 
Some of these groups and individual 
figures, modelled by Tabachetti, are 
extremely fine, while those of the 
chapels painted by Gaudenzio Ferrari 
and his pupils are very interesting. 
The chapels are numbered, and those 
best worth examination are : 5, the 
Appearance of the Star in the East ; 
17, the Transfiguration ; 38, the 
Crucifixion. The paintings on the 
walls and ceiling of the last-named 
chapel are the best on the Sacro 
Monte, and are fine works of Gau- 
denzio Ferrari. Other works of 
importance by the master are the 
frescoes which cover the screen be- 
tween the choir and the nave in the 
church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, 
. at the foot of the Sacro Monte, and 
an altar-piece in the parish church of 
San Gaudenzio. 

A branch of the Italian Alpine Club 
has been opened at Varallo, and mem- 



bers of the English Club who may call 
there will find books, maps, &c., in 
addition to the courteous kindness 
usual among all ranks in Italy. 

Varallo stands upon true granite, 
which forms a band extending N. to 
the head of the Val Bagnola, and 
S.S.W. to Biella (Rte. K). Outlying 
masses of the same rock are seen in 
the well-known sites of Mont' Orfano 
and the Mottarone, near the Lago 
Maggiore. (For the routes from 
Varallo to Omegna and the Val 
Anzasca, see Rtes. L. and M. ) 

There is a lovely way from Varallo 
to Orta by the Colle della Colma 
(Rte. L). But most travellers will 
probably take the railway, which runs 
in 34 miles from Varallo to Novara. 
8 miles from Varallo is Borgo Sesia, 
at the meeting of delightful routes 
from Biella, and from Orta by the 
Valduggia (Rte. K). Between Borgo 
Sesia and Romagnano the line runs 
between porphyritic rocks, in which 
masses of Jurassic limestone and 
marine tertiary molasse are strangely 
intermixed. From Borgo Sesia the 
route lies amidst richly- wooded slopes, 
picturesque with churches and ruined 
castles, to (16J m. ) Romagnano. 
Here the river Sesia enters the plain 
of Piedmont, and flows to VercelH. 
18 miles further is Novara, at the 
junction of the lines from Turin, 
Genoa, Milan, and Domodossola. 



Route F. 

ZERMATT TO DOMODOSSOLA BY 
THE WEISSTHOR AND THE VAL 
ANZASCA. 

It has been pointed out above 
(Rte. A) that the Gorner and Finde- 
len gls. flow from a common neve, 
which reaches to the crest of the 
steep black precipices, streaked with 
gullies, that close in the head of the 
Val Anzasca. It seemed from the 



ROUTE F. ZERMATT TO DOMODOSSOLA 523 



Swiss side as if a way must lie over 
this gently sloping neve into Italy ; 
but in early days the Italian preci- 
pices were regarded as too formidable 
to be even tried, and the usual route 
(connected with a sixteenth-century 
pilgrimage from Zermatt to Varallo 
by way of Macugnaga) lay round the 
N. side of the hump (3,612 m. of 
the Swiss map) which rises at the 
junction of the main ridge running 
K. and S. with a great spur running 
E. and W. This is, no doubt, the 
oldest of all the Weissthors, and was 
crossed certainly in 1825 by 
Brantschen ; it is now known as the 
Schwarzberg Weissthor. But there 
was also a tradition of a more direct 
pass, which is now believed to be the 
present FLlarjoch, or Old Weissthor, 
between the Jagerhorn and the Cima 
di Jazzi ; it was traversed in 185 1 
by Herr A. Schlagintweit, and re- 
discovered independently by Sir 
Martin Conway in 1882. By 1848 an 
easier, yet very direct, route had 
been discovered by Stephen Biner 
and Matthias z. Taugwald ; this lay 
N. of the Cima di Jazzi, and is 
now known as the New Weissthor, 
being the pass commonly used by 
parties going from Zermatt to 
Macugnaga. The history of all 
these passes is very intricate, and 
those wishing for further details on 
historical points are referred to Sir 
Martin Conway's article in vol. xi. of 
the ' Alpine Journal ' (corrected in 
one important point as to the true 
Old Weissthor by his ' Eastern 
Pennine Guide,' p. 67) and to two 
articles by Dr. Schulz in vols. 17 and 
18 of the 'Jahrbuch' of the Swiss 
Alpine Club. 

It seems most convenient to de- 
scribe the three main Weissthors in 
topographical rather than in historical 
order. 

(a) The Old Weissthor.— The true 
pass (3,485 m., 11,434 ft.) lies just 
N. of the Jagerhorn, and is quite an 
easy pass if the right line be taken 
up the final rock wall, which should 
be climbed to the N. of the more 



southerly of the two snow couloirs. 
The ascent is made from the Fillar 

Another route over this ridge 
starts from the Cast elf ranco gl., on 
the N. of the Fillar gl. Hence one 
of the three great couloirs, or the 
rock ribs between them, is ascended, 
but all are more or less dangerous by 
reason of falling stones. It was by 
two of these gullies that Prof. 
Tyndall and Mr. Tuckett mounted 
in 1 86 1, searching for the lost Old 
Weissthor. 

(b) The New Weissthor.— The 
lowest point in the ridge N. of the 
Cima di Jazzi is the Mittelthor, and 
is accessible on the E. side by a 
great snow couloir. But the pass 
now usually called the New Weissthor 
is rather higher (3,580 m., 11,746 ft.), 
and lies on the S. shoulder of the 
snow hump marked 3,645 m. on the 
Swiss map. The ascent to the pass 
from the Rififel by way of the Gorner 
gl. , or from Zermatt by the Findelen 
gl. (4-5 hrs. ), is perfectly simple; 
but on reaching the crest of the ridge 
the scene is changed as if by enchant- 
ment. Instead of toiling over a 
snow field with no object visible save 
boundless fields of neve and oc- 
casional black rocks, the traveller 
finds himself on a narrow ledge of 
rock apparently overhanging a preci- 
pice, which extends far to the S. till 
it is united with the tremendous E. 
face of Monte Rosa. The highest 
summit on this long ridge is the Cima 
di Jazzi, 3,818 m., 12,527 ft. (Rte. 
A. 2. /), accessible by a snow slope 
in -| hr. , but generally crowned' by a 
snow corniche, so that caution should 
be used in approaching the edge of 
the precipice. Looking downwards, 
the traveller sees, if the valley below 
be clear, the lower end of the 
Macugnaga gl., about 6,000ft. below 
him, but appearing so near that a 
stone flung from the hand might 
reach it. It far more commonly 
happens, even in fine weather, that a 
sea of cloud hangs like a pall 
between the spectator and the valley 



524 PENNINE ALPS. § 20. MONTE ROSA DISTRICT 



below. Lying, as do these clouds, 
some thousands of feet below 
him, he supposes that they fill the 
valley, while the people of Macugnaga, 
seeing clouds three or four thousand 
feet above their heads, imagine that 
they cover the mountain tops. The 
rocks adjoining the pass afford a 
home to a few flowering plants, e.g. 
Androsace glaa'alz's, Eritrichiit??i 
nanum, Gentiana brachyphylla, and 
Saxifraga plani folia. This is one 
of the highest stations at which 
flowering plants have been found in 
the Alps. 

Some rocks lead down to a great 
snow shelf, which is followed for 
some distance (not to its end), when 
easy rocks give access to the foot of 
the Roffel gl. Here is the Eugenic- 
Sella Club hut (3,150 m., 10,335 
f h. from the pass. The descent 
thence to Macugnaga offers no diffi- 
culties, and the N. side of the Anza 
is followed to Macugnaga (2J-3 hrs, 
from the pass). It is, of course, easy 
to vary the pass by climbing another 
broad shelf of snow on the face of 
the Cima di Jazzi, and so mounting 
direct to the summit of that peak 
(2 hrs. from the Club hut). Or 
travellers who fear the steep descent 
may in a few steps reach the pass 
next to be described. 

(c) The Sehwarzberg Weissthor. 
— This is the pilgrims' pass, and is 
quite easy, while it is as short to 
descend from it to Mattmark, in the 
Saas valley, as to Macugnaga. Prof. 
Ulrich's party in 1852 seems to have 
been the first to go down to Matt- 
mark, while Mr. Marshall Hall, in 
1849, seems to have been the first 
English traveller who actually crossed 
it to Macugnaga. 

If coming from the Riffel, it is 
necessary to bear a little to the 1. at 
the last, while if coming direct from 
Zermatt a slightly more E. course 
must be taken than if the New Weiss- 
thor itself was the object. In either 
case the snow hump (3,612 m. , 1 1,851 
ft. ) at the junction of the main ridge 
and the great E. spur is attained. 



5 min. descent E. along the crest of 
the latter (this is the narrow ' Arete 
Blanche 5 of the old books) then leads 
to the parting of the ways. A party 
bound for Mattmark should then bear 
to the N. E. , so as to gain the Sehwarz- 
berg gl. , down the 1. bank of which, 
and the r. bank of the stream issuing 
from it, the route lies, the Mattmark 
inn being gained in 3J hrs. from the 
pass. If it be desired to descend to 
Macugnaga, this may be effected by 
going down rotten rocks to the Roffel 
gl. (1 hr. ), or by passing the same 
ridge farther to the E. , or by traversing 
the upper snows of the Schwarzberg 
and Seewinen gls. to the Monte Moro 
Pass itself (Rte. N), by the track from 
which Macugnaga is attained. 

Macugnaga is a wide grassy basin, 
shut in on all sides by towering moun- 
tains. There are many hamlets scat- 
tered throughout it, the inns being at 
that called Staffa (1,327 m., 4,354 ft.) 
A short way off is the old church, 
which has a Gothic S. doorway and 
choir windows, and is thus a monu- 
ment of the German-speaking colony 
settled here for the last 600 years, so 
that the local tongue is the Vallaisan 
dialect of German. For many hun- 
dred years the basin of Macugnaga, 
the history of which was long quite 
distinct from that of the Val Anzasca, 
of which it forms the termination, was 
simply a pasture belonging to the 
Benedictines of Arona ; but in the 
thirteenth century it passed (as did the 
Val Anzasca) into the possession of 
the Counts of Biandrate, a powerful 
Piedmontese family. About the same 
time a lucky marriage brought to the 
chief of the family the extensive pos- 
sessions of the lords of Visp, at the 
mouth of the united Zermatt and Saas 
valleys. Owning, therefore, the two 
Alpine glens, which are only separated 
by the easy pass now called the Monte 
Moro (Rte. N), and finding the head 
of each valley inhabited only by shep- 
herds in summer, Count Godfrey con- 
ceived and carried out a bold plan, 
which has left its mark on their local 
history. In 1250 it is recorded that 



ROUTE F. ZERMATT TO DOMODOSSOLA 525 



he established a colony of Italian- 
spsaking people, from the Val Anzasca, 
in the valley of Saas, above the Mar- 
tinswald, which therefore became 
Italianised, while a few years later 
he transported a band of German- 
speaking colonists from the neigh- 
bourhood of Visp to the pasture 
basin of Macugnaga. Hence we find 
German names at Macugnaga ; e.g. 
the Anza is called the Visp. But the 
similar colonies in the Val Sesia, 
perhaps due to Biandrate influence, 
are probably not an offshoot of the 
Macugnaga settlement (see Rte. E). 

[Besides the Weissthor, Macugnaga 
may also be reached by mountain 
routes from the Val Sesia and from 
Saas (Rtes. G, H, I, and N), but in 
any case the excursion to the Belve- 
dere and the Macugnaga gl. should be 
made, while that up to the Monte 
Moro Pass is strongly recommended 
to those who do not propose to cross 
that pass to Saas, and active walkers 
will be tempted by the ascent of the 
Pizzo Bianco. 

It is best to go to the Macugnaga 
gl. by one route, and to return by 
another, so as to vary the points of 
view. In approaching it the traveller 
has before him the precipices up 
which lie the routes to the different 
Weissthors described above. Mount- 
ing along the r. bank of the Anza, he 
will gain ( 2 hrs. by mule path ) the steep, 
rocky eminence called the Belvedere, 
1,932 m. , 6,339 ft. (where there is 
now a small inn), which breaks the 
descending ice stream of the Macug- 
naga gl. and divides its lower end into 
two branches. The traveller should 
then cross the W. arm of that gl. to 
the Jazzi huts, at the base of the Cima 
di Jazzi, and should continue along 
the slope to those of Fillar, at the foot 
of the gl. of that name, and higher up 
than the Jazzi huts. Crossing a steep 
moraine, he should now return to the 
Macugnaga gl. , here much crevassed, 
and make his way for some distance 
towards its head, immediately under 
the 8,000 ft. of precipice that is 
crowned by the highest summits of 



Monte Rosa. (For the dangerous 
ascent from this side see Rte. A. 3. a. i. ) 
The usual limit of the excursion is a 
waterfall — fed by the snow slopes that 
here and there cling to the face of the 
precipice — which disappears in a 
chasm in the ice. The monotonous 
roar of the cataract is broken from 
time to time by the thunder of ava- 
lanches. Language is incompetent to 
give any idea of the grandeur of the 
scene. 

Returning, and bearing towards the 
E. moraine, the gl. is left near the 
chalets of Petriolo, at the base of the 
Pizzo Bianco, which forms the E. side 
of the great amphitheatre. The enor- 
mous size of the blocks that cover the 
lower slopes near the chalets excites 
wonder. A very rough path leads 
along the mountain-side, for the most 
part high above the gl. , and descends 
into the main valley near the foot of 
the Belvedere. It is better to keep 
along the great r. -hand moraine of 
the gl. , and then cross the gl. to the 
Belvedere. The whole excursion 
need not take more than 8 hrs. 

The ascent of the Pizzo Bianco 
(3,216 m., 10,552 ft.), made in 1789 
by Saussure, offers a view which is 
in some respects unsurpassed in the 
Alps. It can be effected in 4- 5 hrs. from 
Macugnaga. The way is by the track 
leading to the Belvedere. When near 
its base a cattle track turns sharply to 
the 1. and mounts the rocky slope by 
zigzags. Bearing always to the 1. an 
alp is passed, and an ascent made 
towards the ridge connecting the Pizzo 
Nero (2,739 m., 8.987 ft.), a promi- 
nent point overlooking Macugnaga, 
with the much higher Pizzo Bianco. 
Before attaining the ridge it is neces- 
sary to bear somewhat to the r. , and 
to keep straight up over rocks and 
snow slopes. The summit lies some 
way back, and is reached by following 
the crest of a snow ridge. J 

There is a mule track from Macug- 
naga (soon to be a carriage road) to 
the foot of the Morghen, whence a 
carriage road descends the valley to 
I Piedimulera. A walker may reckon 



526 PENNINE ALPS. § 20. 



MONTE ROSA DISTRICT 



about 6 easy hrs. from Macugnaga to 
Piedimulera (14 m. ) 

In descending from Macugnaga the 
traveller has the disadvantage of 
turning his back upon Monte Rosa, 
which at intervals comes into view ; 
but the near scenery is throughout 
so beautiful that it fully engages his 
attention, and, if he be wise enough 
not to hurry, he may halt at intervals 
to enjoy the wonderful views of the 
great mountain. The first of these is 
found at Borca (J hr. ), at the mouth 
of the Quarazza glen (Rte. H). 
J hr. lower is Pestarena, a poor- 
looking village with a mining popu- 
lation. Gold, associated with iron 
pyrites, is found here in quantities 
which repay working, and this is 
one of the few spots in Europe where 
it has been continually extracted for 
centuries, apparently since the time of 
the Romans. These mines are now 
worked by an English company. A 
short way below Pestarena the track 
passes to the r. bank of the Anza, 
and soon encounters a low rocky hill, 
the Morghen (a Teutonic name), which 
appears to bar the valley, and has 
long impeded the construction of a 
road up to the mines. Here the 
basin of Macugnaga is quitted. The 
Anza forces its way through an im- 
practicable ravine, while the mule 
path and a miner's track (easier for 
pedestrians), after mounting a short 
way, descend more steeply on the E. 
side of the barrier, and at its base 
return to the 1. bank at the hamlet of 
Campioli, where the carriage road 
(3 m. from Macugnaga) now begins. 
In the early summer the beautiful 
Saxifraga cotyledon is plentiful on 
the rocks hereabouts. A short dis- 
tance farther is Preqaartera, whence 
a path leads up a glen on the 1. to 
the Saas valley, across the Mondelli 
Pass, which is shorter than the 
Monte Moro, but misses the grand 
scenery. In 2 \ hrs. from Macugnaga 
the traveller reaches Ceppomorelli 
(753 m., 2,471 ft.), and f hr. lower 
down is Vanzone^ where two churches 
connected together are worth a visit. 



(For the passes from these villages to 
the Val Antrona see § 21. Rte. E.) 
At Ceppomorelli a view of the E. face 
of Monte Rosa, combined with a new 
foreground, but always surpassingly 
grand, opens out. It is hard to say 
that anything is wanting to complete 
the beauty of the Val Anzasca. Monte 
Rosa remains constantly in the back- 
ground, unsurpassed in the boldness 
of its form and the vastness of its 
proportions. The middle distance 
presents mountain ridges of varied 
form, clothed with pine forest or 
broken into rocky masses. The 
vegetation of N. Italy is in the fore- 
ground, rich with chestnuts, and vines, 
and fig trees, and all the accessories 
are characteristically Italian. Instead 
of small, dark, wooden houses grouped 
round the pointed spire of a village 
church, we have here massive buildings 
in solid masonry, brilliantly white, and 
nearly all covered, within and with- 
out, with rude frescoes : and the square 
campanile marks from a distance the 
village place of worship. 

f hr. from Vanzone is Ponte Grande 
(524 m., 1,719 ft.), which takes its 
name from a high bridge across the 
Anza. (For the passes hence to the 
Val Sesia and Orta see Rtes. I, L, 
and M, and for those to the Val 
Antrona see §21. Rte. E.) (A char 
road leads hence across the river in 
J hr. to the large village of Bannio, 
the capital of the Val Anzasca, which 
stands on rising ground, amidst fine 
chestnut trees, near the junction of 
the Val Olocchia (Rte. I) with the 
main valley. ) 

It is about 6 miles (2 hrs.' walking) 
from Ponte Grande to Piedimulera. 
The road is carried along the N. side 
of the valley, at first near the bank of 
the Anza, then gradually rising to a 
great height above the stream. A 
short way below Ponte Grande the 
torrent issuing from the Val Bianca 
on the N. forms a pretty waterfall, 
and some way farther is Calasca. 
Beyond the last-named village, on the 
S. side of the valley, is seen the 
opening of the Val Segnara, leading 



ROUTE G. TOUR 



OF MONTE ROSA 



527 



to the .Val Strona (Rte. M). About 
4 miles from Ponte Grande is Castig- 
lione. Beyond the village the traveller, 
once again looking back, may see the 
range of Monte Rosa in great per- 
fection, and then the road begins to 
descend rapidly, passing through two 
short tunnels. The hamlet of Cima- 
mulera is left on the way, and the 
road issues into the Val d'Ossola at 
Piedimulera. This picturesque village 
is a station on the railway from Domo- 
dossola to Novara (§ 21. Rte. A), 
and is 7 miles (f hr. in the train) 
from the first-named place. 



Route G. 

TOUR OF MONTE ROSA BY THE HIGH 
GLACIER PASSES. 

By choosing a wider or a narrower 
circle round Monte Rosa, a traveller 
may completely change the character 
of the scenery through which he will 
pass in making the tour of the moun- 
tain, and in the same degree vary 
the difficulty of the undertaking. 
This and the two following Rtes. 
describe three sets of passes by which 
this tour may be made, from high 
glacier passes to easy mule passes. 

By the recent erection of two high 
Club huts on the S. slope of the 
Monte Rosa range a very fine snow 
route may be made as follows : — I. 
From the inn on the St. Theodule 
Pass (perhaps a very active party 
could achieve the distance by start- 
ing from Zermatt itself) by the snowy 
plateau S. of the Brei thorn to the 
Schwarzthor route, then ascending 
Castor and descending to the Q. Sella 
Club hut (Rte. D)— about 8 hrs. 2. 
Ascend the Lyskamm by the S.W. 
arete, and go down the S. arete to the 
Gnifetti Club hut (9 hrs.), and to the 
inn on the Col d'Olen (if preferred, 
the night might be spent at the Club 
hut, and next day some point of 



Monte Rosa climbed, but this would 
lengthen the round by a day). 3. 
Sleep at the Faller Alp. 4. By the 
Colle delle Loccie to Macugnaga ; 
and 5. By one of the Weissthors 
(Rte. F) back to Zermatt. 

The route taken on the first two 
days has been described in bits in 
Rtes. A, B, C, and D. If preferred 
an easier way can be taken to the 
Q. Sella hut from the St. Theodule 
or Breuil. This involves crossing the 
Col des Cimes Blanches (2,980 m. , 
9,777 ft.) This gap is reached from 
the St. Theodule by bearing due S., 
and from Breuil by mounting in a 
slightly S.E. direction. On the other 
side the descent is made through the 
Aventina glen to the Ayas glen, a 
little below Fiery (Fiery is reached 
in 3 hrs. from the St. Theodule, or in 
about 4 \- 5 hrs. from Breuil.) From 
the Col the view may be extended by 
climbing the Gran Sometta (3, 167 m. , 
10,391 ft.), unless the traveller is in 
haste and wishes to mount the same 
day from Fiery by the gap N. of the 
Bettliner Pass to the Q. Sella hut 
(5-6 hrs.) 

Again, if a traveller desires to see 
Gressoney on his way, he could reach 
Fiery by any of the ways indicated 
above, and next day cross one of two 
passes direct to La Trinite. The N. 
pass is the Bettliner Bass, 2,896 m., 
9,502 ft. (6| hrs.), which leads to 
the Cortlis chalet at the head of the 
Val de Lys, and does not seem 
to possess any advantages over the 
S. pass, the Bettafurka, 2,676 m., 
8,780 ft. (5 hrs.), which is traversed 
by a mule path. The ascent from 
Fiery lies past the hamlet of Resy 
and through the Furka glen, and 
the descent past the oratory of 
Sanf Anna (whence there is a fine 
view of the snowy chain on the N. ) 
to Orsza, where the mule track from 
the Col d'Olen is joined. Another 
way of visiting Gressoney en route 
would be to descend direct thither 
from the Q. Sella hut. 

The Col d'Olen and its neighbour- 
hood are described in the next Rte. 



528 PENNINE ALPS. § 20. MONTE ROSA DISTRICT 



The Falter Alp is 4 hrs. from the 
Col d'Olen inn, or 2J hrs. from 
Alagna. (The Flua Alp, where .fair 
chalet accommodation is to be had, 
is still higher, and about 3 hrs. from 
either Alagna or (by the Bors glen) 
from the Col d'Olen inn ; it is the 
most conveniently situated night 
quarters for a party starting from the 
inn.) Thence the passage of the 
Colle delle Loccie to Macugnaga next 
day is not a very long expedition. 
It was first crossed in 1862 by 
Messrs. J. A. Hudson and W. E. 
Hall, but the difficulties encountered 
on that occasion are now in great 
part avoided. The ascent lies past 
the Vigne Alp and up the Vigne gl. , 
and the pass (3,353 m., 11,001 ft.) is 
gained without any difficulty (3 hrs. 
from the Faller Alp). The view may 
be much extended by following the 
ridge to the S.E. for \ hr. up the 
Monte delle Loccie (3,498 m., 
11,477 ft-)) a ^ so called the Cima 
della Pissa. 

The descent on the Macugnaga 
side is more difficult. A short steep 
ice slope (which can be partly turned 
by steep rocks on the W. ) must be 
cut down, and then the Loccie gl. 
followed till due S. of the Petriolo 
Alp. Some seracs are encountered, 
which in case of necessity can be 
turned by the steep rocks on the W. , 
but it is generally better to keep to 
the glacier all the way. Some way S. 
of the Petriolo chalets, on the r. bank, 
the gl. is left, in order to gain those 
huts through the glen of the same 
name, and henceforward the way is 
one of those described in the last 
Rte. in connection with the excursion 
to the gl. from Macugnaga. By this 
pass Macugnaga is gained in 9 hrs. 
or so from the Faller Alp. The 
pass must be reckoned as first-rate, 
both for the grandeur of the scenery 
and for difficulty. 



Route H. 

VALTOURNANCHE TO MACUGNAGA 
BY THE MIDDLE PASSES. 

A traveller wishing to make the 
tour of the Italian valleys of Monte 
Rosa may choose an intermediate 
course between the somewhat arduous 
passes mentioned in the last Rte. 
and the easier and more frequented 
paths described in the next Rte. In 
four days (an active party could cross 
the Col de Portolaand the Pinterjoch 
in one day) of very moderate walking 
much of the most beautiful scenery of 
this district may thus be seen. 

1. The first pass is the Col de 
Portola (unless it be preferred to 
cross the Col du Tournalin, so as to 
combine with it the ascent of that 
fine panoramic point, the Grand 
Tournalin, Rte. B), which takes 
5 hrs. from the village of Valtour- 
nanche to that of Ayas. The traveller 
must descend from the former village 
for a short distance along the 1. bank 
of the stream, and soon take a path 
to the 1. , which before long begins to 
ascend through a wood. This splits 
up into numerous tracks, and a guide 
is here almost indispensable. The true 
path keeps a general direction nearly 
parallel to the main valley, mounting 
a little E. of S. , until it gains a point 
about 2,000 ft. above the stream, 
whence the greater part of the beauti- 
ful Val Tournanche is seen, backed 
by the Matterhorn and the range 
extending S. from the Chateau des 
Dames. Quitting the verge of the 
mountain-side the path now bears 
S.E. across Alpine pastures, and 
before long reaches the village of 
Chamois (1,815 m -> 5,955 ft.) (This 
hamlet may be gained direct by a 
path from the lower bit of the Val 
Tournanche, or in 2 hrs. by a mule 
path from the village of Valtour- 
nanche past Cheneil. ) A rather long 
but gentle ascent in a slightly S.E. 
direction leads to the summit of the 
pass (2,415 m., 7,924 ft.), which is 
N. of the Mont Zerbion (2,721 m., 
8,928 ft.), hence easily accessible in 



ROUTE H. VALTOURNANCHE TO MACUGNAGA 



| hr. , and commanding a magnificent 
view. The pass lies across a ridge of 
limestone rock that steeply overhangs 
the valley of Ayas. The descent is 
rapid, but free from difficulty, and 
the hamlet of Ayas (1,710 m., 5,610 
ft.) is attained. Here a traveller 
may now find fair accommodation for 
a night, so that it is not necessary to 
ascend to Fiery or to descend to 
Brusson. 

2. A little higher up the valley is 
Champohtc, whence commences the 
direct ascent to the Pinterjoeh or 
Col de Cuneaz, crossing the range 
between the Ayas and Lys valleys, 
and lying just S. of the Grauhaupt. 
This pass may be effected in 6 hrs. , 
but the traveller, favoured by fine 
weather, should not omit the ascent 
of the Grauhaupt. The greater part of 
the ascent from Champoluc to the 
Col is easy enough, commanding at 
intervals fine views of the Matter- 
horn, but after about 3 hrs. the way 
becomes steep and difficult to find. 
It lies along the 1. bank of a water- 
fall, and in f hr. more leads to the 
crest of the Col (2,780 m., 9,121 ft.) 
It has a wide view to the W. , which 
includes Mont Blanc, but is shut out 
from Monte Rosa by the adjoining 
peak of the Grauhaupt (3,315 m. , 
10,876 ft.), accessible in hr., and 
commanding perhaps the finest view 
of the S. side of the Monte Rosa 
chain. The ascent is rough, lying in 
great part over and amidst large loose 
blocks, but except close to the top, 
where the rocks become steep, it 
presents no difficulty. It overtops 
all the nearer summits, and the 
panorama is one of the finest on the 
S. side of the Pennine Alps. Cam- 
panula cenisia, Eritrichium nanum, 
Linaria alpina, Carex ctirvula, and 
a few other flowering plants have 
been found close to the summit. 

[Mountaineers who do not fear a 
stiff scramble will find it more inte- 
resting to make the ascent of the 
Grauhaupt by the N. face and ridge, 
or the E. end of the mountain over- 
hanging the Val de Lys, and to reach 
1. 



the summit partly along the shattered 
ridge, partly along the ledges of its S. 
face ; they can return to Gressoney by 
the Pinterjoch. The bouquetin still 
haunted this range in 1840.3 

The descent from the Pinterjoch 
towards the Val de Lys is easy, and 
practicable for mules. In less than an 
hour the track, following at first the 
bank of an Alpine rivulet, reaches the 
highest chalet, and in \ hr. more 
arrives at a larger establishment in 
the midst of fine pastures. The last 
part of the descent is steeper; the 
path is carried down the 1. side of a 
waterfall, and joins, in about 2 hrs. 
from the Col, the high road in the 
valley, about \ hr. above Gressoney 
St. Jean. In taking the pass from 
Gressoney St. Jean at least 3J hrs. 
should be allowed for the ascent to 
the Col, and about 2J hrs. for the 
descent to the Val d'Ayas. 

3. The traveller following the line 
of the so-called Middle Passes will do 
best to select the Col d'Olen for his 
route from Gressoney to Alagna. 
This very beautiful pass is practicable 
for mules, but an active pedestrian 
can cross it in 7 hrs. It is 4 m. by 
the high road from St. Jean to La 
Trinite (Rte. D). \ hr. farther up the 
valley at Orsz'a the mule track turns 
to the r., and mounts in 1 hr. more 
through beautiful scenery to the first 
huts on the Gabiet Alp. A steeper 
ascent up a side glen, bearing first N. 
and then N.E., leads in i\ hr. more 
to the crest of the pass (2,871 m., 
9,420 ft.), whence the view is very 
fine. Just below the pass on the 
Alagna side a fair-sized and comfort- 
able inn was built, at a height of 
2,865 m - (9.400 ft.), in 1878, and 
affords excellent headquarters for 
exploring the neighbouring ranges. 

[The first stroll will be up the 
Gemshom (3,026 m. , 9,928 ft.), but 
half an hour's climb, and command- 
ing a view of the nearer peaks of the 
great range preferable even to that 
from the Grauhaupt. There are 
many paths round the inn. One 
leads along the E. side of the ridge 
M M 



530 PENNINE ALPS. § 20. MONTE ROSA DISTRICT 



extending N. of the Col to the edge 
of the Indren gl. (ij hr. ) On the 
way the top of the Co lie delle Pisse 
(3,162 m., 10,375 ft.) is touched. 
This pass leads also from the Lys 
to the Gressoney valley, but is not 
as interesting as the Col d'Olen. 
Close to it on the E. side is the old 
Vincent hut, originally built for the 
men engaged in working a supposed 
gold mine, long since abandoned, used 
as sleeping quarters by some of the 
early explorers of the Monte Rosa 
group, and occupied for 14 days in 
185 1 by the brothers Schlagintweit, 
while making scientific observations. 
The pass is unusually easy of access 
on the W. side, as a mule path, 
intended for the use of the miners, 
has been carried up to a large shed 
within J fin of the Col. 

Thence it is 1 J hr. more to the Gni- 
fetti Club hut (3,647 m., 11,966 ft.), 
worth visiting for the fine view it 
enjoys, and the best starting point for 
the ascent of almost any of the S; 
summits of the Monte Rosa cluster 
(see Rte. A. 3. a). From the neigh- 
bourhood of the Colle delle Pisse it is 
easy to cross the Bors gl. to the 
Punta Vittoria (3,461 rri. , 1 1,355 ft- )» 
on the ridge between the Bors and 
Piode gls. ( 1 hr. ), with a glorious view^ 
or to push on to the Punta Giordajii, 
4,055 m. , 13,304 ft. (3^ hrs. from the 
inn), at the head of the same gl.J 

The descent from the Col d'Olen 
to Alagna is for some time rather 
steep. About 1 ^ hr. from the top, at 
a chalet, the pedestrian crosses to the 
S. side of the torrent, and by a steep 
zigzag path reaches Alagna in 3 hrs. 
from the summit. In the opposite 
direction 4 hrs. should be allowed up 
from Alagna, and 2 hrs. down to 
La Trinite. 

[Several other unfrequented passes 
connect Alagna with Gressoney. The 
most direct of these are approached 
from Alagna by the Val d^Otro, which 
opens just below the village. After 
ascending rapidly for 2 hrs. the glen 
forks near some chalets. The r. 
branch leads to the Passo di Zube : 



the way thither is trackless and lies 
over a considerable extent of rough 
rock, alternating with beds of snow, 
while a rather steep descent leads to 
the Gabiet lake, where the mule 
track of the Col d'Olen is joined. 
The 1. branch of the Val d'Otro leads 
to the Passo delP Uomo Storto, which 
is rather higher, but shorter, the 
descent on the Gressoney side being 
extremely steep. More to the S. is 
the circuitous way by the Passo di 
Rissuolo, S.W. of the Corno Bianco 
— to which it offers the easiest route, 
see Rte. D. — and N. of the Col de 
Valdobbia. It is approached by the 
track through the Vogna glen, leading 
to the latter pass. See next Rte. J 

4. The traveller who would reach 
Macugnaga in one day from Alagna, 
and does not wish to cross the high 
Colle delle Loccie (see last Rte. ), has 
only the choice between a combination 
of the Col de Moud and the Little 
Turlo (see next Rte.), or the dull and 
stony Turlo Pass ( Germ, das Thiirle = 
the wicket gate), which takes about 
7 hrs. , but is impassable for mules. 
The path along the Sesia is followed 
from Alagna, till in nearly 1 hr. it 
crosses to the 1. bank (leaving on the 
opposite side the track along the base 
of the Stoffelberg to the Pile Alp). 
5 minutes beyond the path leaves the 
valley (that straight on leading to the 
Vigne and Flua Alps), and begins to 
mount the slope to the r. , with grand 
views of the Signal Kuppe and the 
Parrotspitze rising above the Piode 
gl. The ascent is rough and stony, 
especially when, after passing the 
poor Fatter huts and keeping to the 
1. of the broad valley and of a small 
tarn, it climbs the final slope, and in 
about 4 hrs. from Alagna gains the 
Col, marked by a cross. The top, 
2,736 m., 8,977 ft- (at the W. end of 
the rather broad depression), is a 
very sharp ridge of crystalline schist, 
shut out from the view of Monte 
Rosa by the Falle?'horn (3,130 m., 
10,270 ft.), which is worth ascending 
(ij hr.) From a rocky point in the 
ridge to the r. the Todi, Adula, and 



ROUTE I. AOSTA TO THE VAL ANZASCA 531 



Tessin Alps are visible. The descent 
on the N. side is for some distance 
rather steep, and pathless. After 
crossing the snow slopes the way 
winds to the 1. , and after reaching a 
chalet, the highest on this side of the 
pass, is carried down some steep 
ledges of rock. Valeriana celtica is 
rather abundant. A long descent 
from the Col finally lands the traveller 
at the head of the Val Qziarazza, and, 
looking back, he finds himself sur- 
rounded by a semicircular range, in 
which tiers of rock alternate with 
green slopes, while several fine water- 
falls complete the picture. The track 
descends gently through the lower part 
of the glen to Borca (2 J- hrs. from the 
pass), at the E. end of the pasture 
basin at Macugnaga. The hamlet 
where are the inns is \ hr. further to 
the W. There is a track bearing to 
the 1. across the buttress of the 
mountain, which avoids Borca and 
leads direct to the main road, \ hr. 
below the inns at Macugnaga. 



Route I. 

AOSTA TO THE VAL ANZASCA BY 
THE LOWER PASSES. 

The tour described in this Rte. is 
in great part a frequented line, tra- 
versed every year by numerous 
tourists. As it is that most generally 
followed by unambitious travellers 
who wish to combine a visit to Cour- 
mayeur with the easily accessible 
parts of the S. slope of the Monte 
Rosa district, it has been thought 
convenient to include in this Rte. the 
entire line from Aosta to the Val 
Anzasca. Assuming that the tra- 
veller adheres to the mule tracks 
described below, not less than four 
days must be allowed for covering 
the distance ; but by using one or 
other of the passes connecting the 



upper Val Sesia with the Val Ser- 
menza the distance might be brought 
into the compass of three days' 
journey. It is scarcely necessary to 
say that the judicious traveller will, 
when possible, give at least double 
that time to a route which traverses 
some of the most beautiful scenery of 
our Continent. Good accommoda- 
tion is now found at most of the 
places on the way. 

1. Now that there is a railway 
through the lower part of the Val 
d'Aosta (§15. Rte. A) most travellers 
will make use of it in order to gain St. 
Vincent (c. 17 m. from Aosta), ij m. 
beyond Chatillon. Here the mule 
path turns off to the 1. from the main 
valley, which now bends S. S. E. For 
a while the magnificent chestnut 
trees screen the traveller from the hot 
sun, which beats upon him with full 
force as he emerges on the slope of 
the mountain. As he winds upwards 
the view along the Val d'Aosta be- 
comes more and more commanding, 
and at the little chapel of St. Grat he 
may well halt to enjoy the prospect, 
which lays before him the finest part 
of that beautiful valley for a length of 
more than 25 m. , backed by the 
mass of Mont Blanc. Towards the 
summit of the Col de Joux (1,638 m., 
5,374 ft.) the way lies over broad 
sweeps of pasture on the S. slope of 
the Mont Zei'bion (2,721 m., 8,928 
ft.) (The summit of that mountain 
commands a noble view, and may be 
gained in § hr. from the Col de Por- 
tola — see last Rte. — or in 5 hrs. or so 
from Chatillon, St. Vincent, or Brus- 
son. ) In ascending from St. Vincent 
2f hrs. must be allowed to the Col, 
and J hr. suffice for the gentle descent 
to Brusso7i, in the Val d'Ayas (Rte. 
C), where a day or two may well be 
spent in exploring that valley and the 
ranges that enclose it. 

2. In ascending from Brusson by 
the mule track to the Col de la Ran- 
zola, leading to Gressoney, the travel- 
ler looks due S. over the lower portion 
of the valley of the Evancon, called 
here Val Challant (Rte. C). On 

M M 2 



532 PENNINE ALPS. § 20. MONTE ROSA DISTRICT 



approaching the summit (2,171 m., 
7,123 ft.) an unexpected view of 
Mont Blanc is gained by looking 
back towards the W. ; but Monte 
Rosa, much closer at hand, is shut 
out by nearer masses. After descend- 
ing some way on the E. side of the 
pass, a portion of that great mountain 
comes into view, and in the middle 
distance the village of Gressoney St. 
Jean, set in a framework of green 
meadows, pine forest, and rugged 
rocks, forms an exquisite picture. A 
still finer -and more extensive view is 
obtained from a summit called Poiiite 
de Combetta, or Punta della Regina 
(2,390 m., 7,842 ft.), just S. of the 
Col, whence it is accessible in J hr. 
Those who make the detour may find 
their way direct to Gressoney without 
returning to the mule path. The 
descent from the Col is in part 
rather steep, lying for some time 
through a pine forest, and in 4 hrs. 
from Brusson the traveller reaches 
Gressoney St. Jean (Rte. D). 

[A somewhat circuitous way from 
Brusson to Gressoney will enable the 
traveller to make the ascent of the 
Mont Neri or Bee de Frudiere 
(3,070 m., 10,073 ft-) It com- 
mands a panoramic view of the first 
order, considered by Mr. W. A. 
Ward, to whom the Editor (J. B. ) 
owes much information as to the Val 
de Lys, to be decidedly superior to 
that from the Grauhaupt, which is 
800 ft. higher. It lies on the S. side 
of the. Col de Frudiere (a pass leading 
from Brusson to a point in the Val de 
Lys, about 1 hr. below Gressoney St. 
Jean) and N. of the Col de Chasten 
(which leads from the Val Challant 
to Issime, in the Val de Lys). The 
peak may be gained from either of 
these passes, but most easily from the 
latter (7 hrs. from Issime), whence 
too the Becca Torc/ie {3,015 m.. 9,892 
ft.), on the S., can be climbed in 
l| hr. J 

3. Travellers bound from Gressoney 
to the Val Sesia, who are deterred by 
bad weather or the fear of fatigue 
from attempting the Col d'Olen 



(Rte. H.), choose the easier but less 
interesting way by the Col de Val- 
dobbia. The ascent towards the Col 
begins a little below the village of 
Gressoney St. Jean, and is so well 
marked by a frequented mule path 
that a guide is quite unnecessary. 
(There is a more agreeable foot path 
ascending behind Delapierre's inn 
along the edge of an ancient moraine, 
then mounting along the torrent 
until the mule path is joined at a 
point where it crosses the torrent, 
about 1 hr. from the village.) Ex- 
cept to the botanist, who will find a 
good many rare plants by the way, 
this pass offers less of interest than 
most of those in the neighbourhood ; 
yet the views of the Val de Lys from 
the W. side, and of the Graian Alps 
from the top of the Col, are very 
fine. There is a small stone Hospice 
on the summit of the pass (2,479 m «> 
8,134 ft.), now also a meteorological 
observatory. Here simple refresh- 
ments may be had. (The ascent of 
the Corno Bianco — Rte. E — takes 
6 hrs. hence. ) On the E. side of the 
Col the path traverses Alpine pas- 
tures and the remains of a pine 
; forest before reaching a miserable 
hamlet called Peccia. The remainder 
of the descent lies along the Vogna 
torrent, which in one place forms a 
I fine waterfall. The glen narrows to 
; a ravine before finally opening into 
; the Val Sesia at Riva Valdobbia, 
i\ m. below Alagna (Rte. E). Going 
I from W. to E. , 3 hrs. suffice for the 
I ascent, and 2.\ hrs. for the descent to 
Riva ; in the opposite direction 3J 
hrs. may be allowed to the Col, and 
2 hrs. hence to Gressoney. 

[Those who would vary the way 
from Gressoney to the Val Sesia may 
choose between several passes, all of 
which are reached from the hamlet 
of Loomatten, nearly I hr. below 
\ Gressoney St. Jean. A well-traced 
mule path leads thence eastwards to 
the Loo chalets, and to the Loo 
plateau, at the head of the upland glen 
of that name. Here many routes 
diverge. 



ROUTE I. AOSTA TO 



THE VAL ANZASCA 533 



(a) To the S. is the Col de Looz- 
zoney, by which and the Col del la 
Mologna Grande Piedicavallo, at the 
head of the Andorno valley (Rte. K), 
may be gained in 7 hrs. from Gres- 
soney. 

(/;) To the E. is the Col de Loo 
(2,437 m., 7,996 ft.), marked by a 
stone-man. JustS. is a rocky height, 
the Punt a Tre Vescovi (2,579 m., 
8,462 ft. ), which may be easily reached 
in 20 min. , and commands an admir- 
able view, worthy of being ranked 
among the excursions from Gres- 
soney. On the E. side of the Col the 
track descends through the rather 
uninteresting Rassa glen, traversed 
by the Sorba torrent (Rte. K), which 
joins the Sesia above Piode (Rte. E). 

(c) To the N. is the Col de Macagno 
(2,495 m -> 8,186 ft.), which leads 
N.W. into the Val Macagno, tra- 
versed by the Vogna torrent. In 
about 1 hr. the mule track from the 
Col de Valdobbia is gained. Only 
the upper part of this glen is called 
Val Macagno, the greater part of it 
being known as the Val Vogna. 

If the traveller bear nearly due E. 
from the Col de Macagno, he will 
gain a low pass called Col delta 
Gronda, which properly leads into 
the Artogna glen, though by keeping 
round to the S.E. to the Col de Campo 
the Sassolenda branch of the Rassa 
glen may be gained, and the route of 
b. above joined in it. Rather N. of 
the Colle della Gronda is the Colle 
delta Meja, which leads from the Val 
Macagno into the Artogna glen, by 
which Mollia, in Val Sesia, is 
gained.] 

4. There is but one easy pass from 
the Val Sesia direct to the Val An- 
zasca — the Turlo, described in the 
last Rte. A glance at the map 
will show that otherwise the Val 
Sesia is cut off from the Val Anzasca 
by the sinuous Val Sermenza^ which 
ultimately splits into two branches — 
that to the W. being the Rima, and 
that to the E. the Carcoforo arm. 
Hence a traveller must- somehow 
reach the Val Sermenza, and then 



take one of the passes through one 
of its arms. The traveller who keeps 
to mule paths will do best to take the 
Col de Moud to Rimasco, and then 
the Col d'Egua to Ponte Grande. 

The Val Sermenza may be gained 
by three main routes from the Val 
Sesia. 

1. By Carriage Road. — The high 
road from Alagna to Baimuccia (14J 
m. ) has been already described in 
Rte. E. Baimuccia stands at the 
junction of the Val Sermenza (often 
called Val Piccola in contradistinction 
to the main Sesia valley or Val 
Grande), and there is a carriage road 
thence up to Rimasco (6J m. ) The 
scenery of the lower part of the Val 
Sermenza is extremely beautiful. It 
is a narrow and tortuous glen, where 
trees, rocks, and Alpine torrents pre- 
sent in ceaseless variety the most ex- 
quisite pictures. On the way are the 
hamlets of Boccioleto (above which 
rises the strange rock obelisk, nearly 
300 ft. in height, known as the Torre 
di Boccioleto or delle Giavine). and 
Fervento. Rimasco (905 m. , 2,969 ft. ) 
is at the meeting of the two arms of 
the valley. 

2. The long circuit made by the 
carriage road may be avoided by 
crossing either the Col della Casera, 
which leads from Riva Valdobbia to 
Rima St. Giuseppe (in the W. arm 
of the Val Sermenza) by the Nonai 
glen in 5 hrs. , or the Bocchetta Bia 
from Mollia direct to Fervento by the 
Chignolo glen in 4 hrs. 

3. A pleasanter route is to cross 
one or other of three passes direct 
from Alagna to the Rima branch of 
the Val Sermenza. The most nor- 
therly of these is the Col de Rima or de 
Piglimo (2,487m., 8, 160 ft.), a little- 
used track leading from the Turlo path 
to Rima itself (5 hrs.) The most 
southerly is the bocchetta Moanda or 
di Alagna (2,419 m., 7,937 ft.), the 
ascent (long and steep) from Alagna 
to which takes 2J-3 hrs. (The fine 
view from the summit may be much 
extended by ascending in 2 hrs. by 

> its W. flank the Tagliaferro (2,964 m. , 



534 PENNINE ALPS. § 20. MONTE ROSA DISTRICT 



9,725 ft.) N. of the pass, this being 
the great advantage of taking this 
route.) The descent is made from 
the Col in a nearly due E. direction, 
and passing a fine waterfall the travel- 
ler gains the Nonai glen, and so attains 
(5 hrs. from Alagna) the village of 
Rima San Giuseppe. The Col de 
Moud (2,323 m., 7,622 ft.), lying be- 
tween these two passes, and N. of the 
Tagliaferro, is the most frequented but 
the dullest way, and is also traversed 
by a mule track. 1 Following the 
Val Sesia for a short distance above 
Alagna, the torrent is crossed to its 
1. bank by either the first or second 
bridge. The path then takes to the 
hill-side, and zigzags up the 1. hand of 
two ravines which are seen in front. 
Fine views of the summits of Monte 
Rosa from the Signalkuppe to the 
Vincent Pyramide are disclosed on the 
L , and in about 1 J hr. after quitting 
Alagna the Moud chalets are reached. 
Excellent milk may be obtained here. 
The remainder of the route to the 
Col is uninteresting, and may be 
accomplished in 1 hr. (mules take 
3 hrs. from Alagna to the Col). The 
track leads down a snow slope, be- 
neath the rocks of the Tagliaferro, 
and on reaching the bottom the 
Val Sermenza is seen at a consider- 
able depth below. Slopes of grass, 
interspersed with a rich growth of 
rhododendrons, are succeeded by a 
pine forest, through which the pretty 
path winds steeply down to Rima, 
1 hr. from the Col. 5 (F. F. T.) 

Having reached the Val Sermenza 
by one of these routes the ways to 
Ponte Grande and to Macugnaga 
divide. 

a. To Ponte Grande there is but 
one easy route, the Col d'Egua. 
This leads from Rimasco through the 
beautiful E. branch of the valley to 
the village of Carcoforo, 1,304 m., 
4,278 ft. (2 hrs.) Above it the slopes 
are bare, and the scenery rather tame. 
Mules take nearly 2J hrs. from Car- 
coforo to reach the summit of the Col 
d'Egua (2,236 m., 7,336 ft.), the 
track being rather steep ; but the 



trouble is repaid by a magnificent 
view of Monte Rosa and the minor 
ranges that diverge from it. The 
view is still more extensive from a 
point about 10 min. N. of the Col. 
An easy descent leads in J hr. from 
the Col to the Selle huts, 1,820 m., 
5,971 ft. (near which there is now a 
little inn), close to the summit of the 
Baranca Pass (marked by a small 
oratory), leading over from Fobello, 
in the' Val Mastallone (Rte. L). This 
pass lies over an undulating plateau 
of Alpine pasture. On approaching 
the N. slope there is a beautiful view 
over the Val Olocchia, a tributary of 
the Val Anzasca, through which this 
route lies. There is now a new mule 
path which leads down in | hr. to the 
chalets of Pie di Baranca, in the Val 
Olocchia itself. Much of the magni- 
ficent timber that formerly clothed the 
slopes of this glen has of late years 
fallen before the axe. The path is 
, carried along the 1. bank of the tor- 
rent to Bannio, the chief village in 
the Val Anzasca, and most beauti- 
fully situated. A walk of \ hr. by a 
char road leads hence over the Anza 
to Ponte Grande (2 J- 3 hrs. from the 
pass), Rte. F. 

b. The traveller on foot bound from 
the Val Sermenza to Macugnaga di- 
rect has a choice of several passes. 

(1) From Carcoforo itself he may 
cross the Col della Bottiglia or Boc- 
chctta di Carcoforo. ' The ascent from 
Carcoforo is very steep ; and it takes 
more than 3 hrs. to reach the summit 
of the pass (2,672 m., 8,767 ft.) 
This commands a magnificent view of 
Monte Rosa and the Saasgrat. On 
the other side there is a faintly 
marked track along a steep slope 
until an abandoned mine (? gold) is 
reached. Below this the path de- 
scends into the E. head of the Val 
Quarazza, down which runs the path 
from the Turlo ' (M. ) 6 hrs. may be 
reckoned from Carcoforo to Macug- 
naga by this route. 

(2) The head of the Val Quarazza 
may also be attained from the Rima or 
W. branch of the Val Sermenza. The 



ROUTE K. IV RE A TO ORTA BY BIELLA 535 



mule track from Rimasco lies along 
the 1. bank of the torrent, passes the 
Italian-speaking village of Rima San 
Giuseppe (1 hr. ), and in \ hr. more 
reaches Rima (1,417 m., 4,649 ft.) 
This small village (150 souls) is par- 
ticularly interesting from the fact that 
German is still more or less spoken 
here, for it is an offshoot of one of 
the neighbouring Vallaisan colonies, 
probably of that at Alagna. It is the 
highest village in the Val Sesia and 
its tributary glens. (Hence to Carco- 
foro in 4 hrs. by the Col del Termine, 
2,347 m. , 7,700 ft.) From Rima the 
Col del Piccolo Altare, or Little Turlo 
(Germ. Das kleine Thiirle = the 
little wicket gate), is reached by a 
mule path, so that a traveller can 
easily combine it with the Col de 
Moud in one day from Alagna to 
Macugnaga. The height of the pass 
is 2,630 m. (8,629 ft.) On the other 
side there is no mule path as yet ; 
the track soon joins that from the 
Turlo, and in this way Macugnaga is 
attained in 6 hrs. from Rima. 



Route K. 

IVREA TO ORTA BY BIELLA. 

Tourists, attracted by the grand 
scenery of the valleys radiating from 
the Italian slope of the Monte Rosa 
group, have generally neglected the 
lower ranges that separate the plain 
of Piedmont from the ridges immedi- 
ately connected with that great 
mountain mass. There is, however, 
ample room for interesting excursions 
among the outer valleys and the foot- 
hills of this region, which may well 
be visited at a season when the 
higher mountains are not easily acces- 
sible, or during intervals of bad 
weather, which is often confined to 
the more immediate neighbourhood 
of the snowy Alps. A few days may 



I be much better spent by a moun- 
! taineer amidst the beautiful scenery 
of the outer valleys of Piedmont than 
in fretting in an Alpine inn, or plod- 
ding over a pass whose attractions are 
hidden by clouds, rain, or fresh snow, 
i The present Rte. is suggested in 
! hopes of drawing the attention of 
English travellers to a district very 
1 little known to them as yet, but well 
; deserving a visit. 

From Ivrea (§ 1.5. Rte. A) to Biella 
it is not more than 10 or 11 miles in 
a direct line, but mos!: of the routes 
: taken between them are circuitous. 
; Both towns are connected by branch 
] railway or tramway with the main 
! line from Xovara to Turin and 
Milan, but the trains are so arranged 
that 3 hrs. or more are consumed in 
going from one place to the other. 

A more direct high road (3J hrs.' 
drive) affords the traveller the oppor- 
tunity of examining the remarkable 
ridge of La Serra. which lies between 
the two towns. This is really the L- 
hand moraine of the great glacier 
which formerly filled the valley of 
Aosta, and extends for a distance of 
15J miles from the foot hills across 
the Piedmontese plain. The ascent 
from Ivrea is by steep zigzags. The 
view from the gap, looking back 
towards Monte Viso and the peaks 
round the Mont Cenis, is very beauti- 
ful, while the considerable lake of 
Viverone is an ornament to the fore- 
ground. The top is a broad level, 
across which run the long ridges of 
successive moraines. After a while 
the road descends steeply through 
chestnut forests, and crosses the 
strange region known as La Bessa, 
covered with piles of stones believed 
to represent the remains of Roman 
I gold diggings. At Mongrando, J hr. 
from Biella, the traveller may profit 
by a tramway which will bring him 
to Biella in j hr. 

Far more interesting, however, to 
pedestrians is the walk from Ivrea 
or Settimo Vittone by the village of 
Andrate (exquisitely placed on a spur 
commanding the entrance to the Val 



536 PENNINE ALPS. § 20. MONTE ROSA DISTRICT 



d'Aosta), Croce Serra (853 m., 2,799 
ft.), Donato, and Graglia, At 
Donato, some 2\ or 3 hrs. from Ivrea, 
carriages can generally be had for the 
descent to Biella (3 hrs. on foot from 
Donato). The road passes under the 
Sanctuary of Graglia (see below), 
which may be visited by an hour's 
dftour. This excursion cannot be 
to:> warmly recommended. 

Biella is a very thriving town, full 
of cloth works, at the opening of the 
Val d"* Andorno , whence flows the 
Cervo, to join the Sesia near Yercelli. 
It is divided into an upper and lower 
town, connected by a funicular rail- 
way. In the lower town there is a 
very ancient Baptistery, the church 
of St. Sebastian (with some pictures 
attributed to Bernardino Luini and 
Gaudenzio Ferrari), and a monument 
in honour of the late eminent states- 
man Quintino Sella, whose family 
belongs to this region. In the upper 
town is the hydropathic establishment 
of Biella-Piazzo (closed in 1895). 
(For Biella and its neighbourhood 
consult the ' Guida pel villeggiante 
nel Biellese,' by Pertusi and Ratti, 
2nd edition, Turin, 1887.) 

Not far from Biella (J hr.'s drive) 
is the well-preserved mediaeval castle 
of Gaglianico. if hr.'s drive from 
Biella is the Sanctuary of Graglia 
(812 m. , 2,664 ft.), on an eminence 
overlooking the plain of Piedmont. 
Near it is a large hydropathic esta- 
blishment. There are several other 
such establishments near Biella, all 
much frequented in summer. That 
of Cos si la is \\ m. X. of the town ; 
that of Andorno (4 miles) is close to 
the large and thriving village of that 
name, while a third (2 hrs. : beautiful 
drive from Biella) is near the Sanctu- 
ary of Oropa. 

i. Travellers approaching Gressoney 
from Biella may best avail themselves 
of one or other of the passes leading 
to the lower reach of the Val de Lys 
(Rte. D). The southernmost of 
these is the Col de Carisei, leading 
by Graglia to Lillianes. The finest 
way is by the Col della Ba7'?na 



\ d" Oropa (2,261 m., 7,418 ft.), 

I between the famous Sanctuary of 
\ Oropa and Fontainemore (5 hrs.) 

This Sanctuary ( 1, 180 m. , 3,872 ft. ) 
' is 9 miles by high road N.W. of 
j Biella, and consists of a noble pile of 
buildings, forming two quadrangles, 
surrounded by chapels. It contains 
an ancient wooden statue of the 
Madonna, which annually attracts 
thither 70,000 pilgrims. Travellers 
find accommodation at a large hydro- 
pathic establishment near by, or at 
the Hospice, taking their meals at an 
adjoining Restaurant. From the 
Sanctuary there is a very interesting 
carriage road (due to the liberality of 
a local benefactor) passing by a long 
tunnel under the crest of the Colle 
\ della Colma (1,622 m., 5,322 ft.), 
and then descending in extraordinary 
i zigzags to the Sanctuary of San 
\ Giovanni d^ Andorno, 1,020 m., 
3,347 ft. (2\ hrs.' walk), very finely 
situated in the middle portion of the 
Andorno valley. This is 7J m. by 
high road from Biella, so that visitors 
may combine Oropa and the Yal 
d'Andorno in a single excursion. 
' (For the more direct passes from 

• Piedicavallo to the Val de Lys see 
below. ) 

ii. The way from Biella to the Val 

• Sesia lies through the Val d'Andomo 
itself, up which a good carriage road 
runs in 12 miles to the highest village, 
Piedicavallo, 1,037 m., 3,402 ft. 

[Hence the Colle della Vecchia 
(2, 186 m. , 7, 172 ft. ) and the Colle delta 
Mologna Piccola (2,095 m -» 6,874 ft.) 
lead over in 5 hrs. to Gaby, in the 
Val de Lys, above Issime. N.E. of 

: the last-named pass is the Colle della 
Mologna Grande, whence a cairn - 
marked level traverse leads N.W. to 
the Col de Loozoney, by which and 
the Loo glen (Rte. I) the hamlet 

! of Loomatt°n, about I hr. below 
Gressoney St. Jean, is gained, 7 hrs. 
being required from Piedicavallo to 
Gressoney by this route. J 

From Piedicavallo the Val Sesia 
may be most easily gained by the 
mule path over the Bocchetta del Croso 



ROUTE K. IVREA TO ORTA BY BIELLA 



537 



(1,940 m.j 6,365 ft.) and the Val 
Sorba, 5-6 hrs. sufficing to go from 
Piedicavallo to the high road below 
Campertogno, in the Val Sesia. The 
finest way, however, is to ascend the 
Monte Bo, 2,556 m., 8,386 ft. (5 § 
hrs. from Piedicavallo), a peak which 
may, perhaps, be identified with the 
i Monboso,' ascended long ago by 
Leonardo da Vinci, and rising cer- 
tainly in the range E. of the Val Sesia. 
(There is a Club hut close to the 
top. ) The descent may be made to 
the Bocchetta, or direct by the N.W. 
flank into the Val Sorba. In this 
glen are the marble quarries of Mas- 
succo, now no longer worked. 
hrs. from Piedicavallo by the Boc- 
chetta is the village of Rassa, whence 
there is a char road down the Sorba 
valley, which at its mouth bears N., 
and joins the main road in the Val 
Sesia a little way below Camper- 
togno. 

The quickest way from Biella to 
Orta is by rail (71 \ m.) through 
Santhia, Novara, and Gozzano. But 
it is easy, and far more charming, to 
spend the day on a drive (40 m. ) by 
way of Borgo Sesia and Valduggia. 
The drive from Biella to Borgo Sesia 
takes about 4! hrs. (it can be shortened 
one-half by taking train round by 
Cossato to Valle Mosso, but the most 
beautiful scenery is thus lost.) For 
the first 1 J hr. the road is terraced 
along the bays of the foot-hills. 

[10 min. beyond Petti?iengo a foot 
path leads in f hr. to the top of the 
Cima del la Rovella (890 m. , 2,920 ft. ), 
which includes in its panorama the 
whole of the Western Alps and the 
Bernina chain. J 

The road descends to a stream 
lined with cloth factories, and then 
climbs again to the finely placed 
small town of Mosso Santa Maria 
(-J hr. above Valle Mosso station). 
A terrace road brings the traveller 
to the village of Sella, which, as 
its name implies, is situated on the 
saddle forming the limit of the basin 
of the Sesia. 

[Hence the Monte San Bernardo 



di Trivero (1,408 m., 4,620 ft.), com- 
manding a fine view over Val S as sera, 
a valley of pastures, without permanent 
villages, to Monte Rosa, can be reached 
in 2 hrs. It was the last refuge of 
Fra Dolcino, the heretic, who in 1307 
was burnt on the sands near the junc- 
tion of the Cervo with the Sesia. As 
a thankoffering for their victory over 
him and his followers the inhabitants 
of the neighbourhood built on the 
summit, where these heretics made 
their last stand, a chapel dedicated to 
St. Bernard, the great adversary of 
heretics. J 

The descent to Borgo Sesia 
(Rte. E), near the junction of the 
Sessera and the Sesia, is less in- 
teresting than the earlier part of the 
drive. From Borgo Sesia there is a 
lovely drive of 3 hrs. by Valduggia (the 
birthplace of Gaudenzio Ferrari) to 
the S. end of the lake of Orta, and 
so to Orta, now a station on the 
railway from Domo d'Ossola to No- 
vara (§ 21. Rte. A). 



Route L. 

ORTA TO PONTE GRANDE BY THE 
VAL MASTALLONE. 

None of the ways for approaching 
the Monte Rosa group enumerated in 
this volume offer greater variety of 
beautiful and grand scenery than 
those described in this and the fol- 
lowing Rtes. The Val Mastallone 
opens into the Val Sesia at Varallo, 
so that it is better to sleep there or at 
Fobello rather than to attempt to 
reach Ponte Grande from Orta in one 
very long day. 

The best way from Orta to Varallo 
is to cross the Lake of Orta (§21. Rte. 
A) to Bella, on the W. shore, where 
donkeys may be found by those who 
wish to ride over theColle della Colma 
(942 m., 3,091 ft.), which traverses 



538 PENNINE ALPS. § 20. MONTE ROSA DISTRICT 



the low ridge between the lake and 
the Val Sesia. An active pedestrian 
may easily accomplish the distance in 
4 hrs. , but it is a pity to hurry through 
the exquisite scenery. From Pella a 
rather steep, paved path mounts along 
the channel of a little torrent amidst 
vines and fig trees, with masses of 
crumbling granite projecting here and 
there from the hill slope. In less 
than an hour the little village of Arola 
is reached. A paved track turns N. 
to Cesara, which is connected by a 
carriage road with Omegna, but the 
way to Varallo lies nearly due W., 
partly amid chestnut trees, till in 2 
hrs. the Colma is reached. From a 
slight eminence to the 1. Monte Rosa 
and some more distant peaks are in 
view. The track winds down the 
hill-side and enters a little open glen, 
in which is the hamlet of Civiasco. 
Here a char road begins, which winds 
round the declivity on the r. and 
reaches the Sesia valley very near 
Varallo. The botanist will observe 
Hie7-acium porrifoliui?i growing on 
granite rocks. 

The Val Mastallone joins the Sesia 
close to the town, and there is now a 
good carriage road past the Baraccone 
(9 J- m. ), at the junction of the two 
main branches of the valley, to Fobello 
(2 m.) and Rimella (2jm.) respec- 
tively. Nature, which has done so 
much to adorn this region, seems to 
have surpassed herself here. The 
most exquisite combinations of rock, 
and wood, and water succeed each 
other throughout the valley. In one 
place, called La Gida, about 2\ m. 
from Varallo, it is contracted to a 
mere gorge, and a stone bridge of a 
single arch spans the torrent. An- 
other bridge higher up gives a pas- 
sage to the new road, cut out in the 
rock. About \ m. beyond Ferrera 
the valley divides, an inn, the Barac- 
cone, standing just at this point. 

a. The W. branch, though longer, 
offers the easiest way to Ponte Grande. 
Keeping to the L the new road is 
carried on 2 m. beyond the junction 
to the little village of Fobello (880 m., 



2,887 ft-)? famous for its cooks, who 
migrate hence to all parts of Europe. 
The low ridge of the Baranca Pass 
(1,820 m., 5,971 ft.) closes the head of 
this glen. The ascent by a mule pass 
is short and easy, but the scenery di- 
minishes in interest towards the head 
of the valley. (To the r. is the Pizzo 
del Moro, 2,335 m -> 7> 661 com- 
manding a fine view, and accessible in 
3f hrs. from Fobello. ) The summit of 
the Baranca Pass is marked by a small 
oratory (3 hrs. from Fobello), not far 
from which is a small inn. At the 
Selle huts, on the pasture plateau 
over which the way lies, the path 
joins that from the Col d'Egua (Rte. 
I). The view towards the Val An- 
zasca, though beautiful, is not first- 
rate. Ponte Grande is gained in 
2 hrs. from the pass. 

b. The most direct way from Varallo 
to Ponte Grande is through the E. 
branch of the Val Mastallone, at the 
head of which is the Orchetta or 
Drochetta Pass (1,820m., 5,971 ft.) 
It is not passable for mules, but the 
view is much finer than that from the 
Baranca. There is a very steep char 
road up the glen as far as (2J m. ) 
the village of Rimella (1,181 m., 
3,875 ft.), on a steep slope 700 ft. 
above the stream. This is a German- 
speaking village, for it is an offshoot 
of the Vallaisan colony established at 
Macugnaga. The stream is still called 
' Landwasser,' and other German 
names survive in popular usage. The 
ascent thence to the Col is very steep 
and winding at first. The pass is 
gained in 3 hrs. from the Baraccone, 
or in about the same time from Fo- 
bello, by a path which mounts steeply 
to the ridge dividing the two glens, 
and then runs nearly on a level to the 
pass. A very steep descent over de- 
bris and grass slopes leads to the level 
of the Val Olocchia, the r. bank of 
the torrent in which is followed till 
by a bridge the mule path from the 
Baranca Pass is joined 10 min. above 
Bannio. Ponte Grande is gained in 
2 hrs. from the summit. 



ROUTE M. ORTA TO PONTE GRANDE BY THE VAL STRONA 539 



Route M. 

ORTA TO PONTE GRANDE BY 
THE VAL STRONA. 

The Val Strona, of which it is 
enough to say that it is worthy to 
compete with the tributary glens of 
the Val Sesia, pours its torrent into 
the stream that drains the Lake of 
Orta, just as this flows out close to 
Omegna, 5§ m. by rail from Orta 
(§ 21. Rte. A). Like most of the 
neighbouring valleys this is narrow, 
sinuous, and richly wooded, possess- 
ing thus varied scenery, but no distant 
views. There is now a new char 
road up the valley, chiefly along the 
1. bank, as far as Forno (3 J hrs.' 
walking). Hence a good mule path 
leads up to the highest village, Cam- 
pello Monti (1,290 m., 4,232 ft.) 
The usual course hence to the Val 
Anzasca is circuitous, but throughout 
very interesting. A track mounting 
S. W. from the village leads in i\ hr. 
to the Bocchetta di Campello (in dialect 
■ Jattal'= ' Sattel ') (1,926 m., 6,319 
ft. ), which commands one of the finest 
distant views of Monte Rosa. A very 
rough track, scarcely practicable for 
a laden mule, passes by San Gottardo, 
and in 3 hrs. from Campello (till 1816 
Campello was, oddly enough, part of 
the commune of Rimella) reaches 
Rimella, in the E. branch of the Val 
Mastallone (see last Rte.) Ponte 
Grande may be reached hence by 
the Orchetta Pass, but it is better to 
make the circuit by Fobello, in the 
W. branch of the last-named valley 

Mr. F. Mills has favoured the 
Editor (J. B. ) with notes of the direct 
way between Campello and the Val 
Anzasca. It lies over the N. E. ridge 
of the Cima di Cappezzone, N. of 
Campello, crossing probably at the 
point marked 2,189 m - on the Italian 
map (the Colle della Crosetta). The 
descent is through the Vallon della 
Segnara, which opens into the Val 
Anzasca below Calasca. The ridge 



is steep, and the way a little difficult 
from the want of a traced path near 
the summit. A track is found below 
the highest chalet in the Segnara 
glen, which is followed to Calasca. 
The Segnara glen may also be gained 
from Rimella by the ridge between 
the Cima di Capezzone and the 
Monte Mora, in which there is a gap 
marked 2,222 fir. on the Italian map. 

(A very interesting way from 
Omegna to Varallo is by the village 
of Quarna, and then over the Monte 
Massucone (1,424 m., 4,672 ft.) to 
Camasco, whence a char road leads 
direct to Varallo by the Crosa glen. 
This mountain is rather lower than 
the Mottarone (§ 21. Rte. A.), and 
Monte Rosa is some miles nearer, 
but it misses in great part beautiful 
views over the lakes, which have ob- 
tained for its rival the title of the 
Italian Rigi. 7-8 hrs. should be 
allowed for this route from Omegna 
to Varallo. ) 



Route N. 

visp to macugnaga by the 
monte moro. 

In the preceding portion of this 
Section we have supposed the tra- 
veller to approach the Monte Rosa 
range by the W. branch of the Visp 
valley, or else from the Italian side. 
There remains another route, by the 
E. branch of the Visp valley, which 
in grandeur of scenery vies with 
any of those hitherto described. For 
travellers who intend to make a com- 
plete tour of the entire district, com- 
mencing and concluding on the Swiss 
side, the best arrangement is to begin 
with the present route : and, after 
passing some time in the Italian val- 
leys on the S. slope of the chain, to 
reach Zermatt by the St. Theodule. 
Traces of the mediaeval paved track 



540 PENNINE ALPS. § 20. MONTE ROSA DISTRICT 



are found on both sides of the Monte 
Moro, but horses cannot cross the 
upper portion of the route, which 
must be made on foot. 

[A pedestrian going round from the 
Saas to the Zermatt valley, or vice 
versa, need not ascend to the Kinn- 
briicke, but may save an hour by a 
short cut sometimes called the ' Stal- 
denjoch.' ' In descending from Saas, 
soon after you come in sight of Stal- 
den, a path turns to the 1. about 50 
yards below a place where the track, 
carried at a great height, is guarded 
by rough railing. Here are some 
magnificent pine trees. You now leave 
the mule track and take to the side 
of the watercourse, and when this 
comes to an end a track in the same 
direction, but lower down, leads to the 
main road in the Zermatt valley, near 
the second bridge below St. Niklaus ' 
(R. S. W. ) There is also a track from 
the Hutegg inn round the mountain- 
side, past the Hannig Alp and 
Grdchen to St. Niklaus, and an 
easy though stony direct pass, the 
Ferrichliicke (2,889 m -> 9*479 ft.), 
across the range N. of the Balfrin. 
The passes S. of that summit are 
described in Rte. P.] 

The railway from Visp to Stalden 
(4J m. ) has been described in Rte. A. 
From the Stalden station (no need 
to enter the village) the railway is 
crossed by a mule track, which passes 
over the Kiiinbriicke, a single arch 
1 50 ft. above the Matter Visp, and, 
entering the E. branch of the valley, 
mounts rapidly along the 1. bank of 
the Saaser Visp. The valley narrows 
to a defile between steep and high 
mountains, whose summits are not 
seen from below, and passes the 
hamlet of Eisten, and a little inn at 
the Hutegg, before crossing to the r. 
bank by the Martinsbriicke. This 
bridge takes its name from the forest 
of St. Martin, which has given its 
name to the Mattwaldhorn and to 
Mattmark, the two extremities of the 
parish of Saas since the thirteenth 
century. The track recrosses the 
stream, and in 2 hrs. from Stalden 



reaches a little green plain, where 
stands the village of Balen. Here 
the path passes to the r. bank, and 
the valley widens out so as to show 
some of the neighbouring peaks. In 
3^ hrs. ' steady walking from Stalden 
the traveller reaches 

Saas Grund, so called to distin- 
guish it from Saas Fee, f hr. up on 
the slopes to the W. The name Saas 
is derived either from the Italian word 
for a stone ('sasso') or from a Ro- 
mance word ('saucea') meaning an 
osier thicket. In either case it is a 
relic of the Italian colonisation of this 
glen in 1250 by Count Godfrey of 
Biandrate (see Rte. F), though later 
Teutonic influence has so disguised 
the local names that it is often hard 
to make out their original Italian 
form. Certain of these names — e.g. 
Mischabel, Allalin, Almagell, Monte 
Moro — have been supposed to be due 
to a Saracen settlement here in the 
tenth century, but this theory has no 
definite historical evidence in its fa- 
vour, and is opposed to what we 
know of the authentic history of this 
valley. A former priest of the parish 
of Saas, Herr Imseng, was renowned 
as an intrepid mountaineer, and was 
known to most visitors, as well as by 
name to the readers of Sir Alfred 
Wills' ' Wanderings among the High 
Alps,' but was drowned in 1869 in 
the Mattmark lake. 

The village of Saas (1,562 m., 
5,125 ft.) does not command any 
striking views, but is situated in the 
immediate neighbourhood of scenery 
of the first order. The establishment 
of several great hotels at Saas Fee 
(f hr. off on the W. ), and of a modest 
mountain inn I hr. above the Trift Alp 
(3 hr. off on the E. ), have now deprived 
it of any great importance as an Alpine 
centre. No traveller should on any 
account omit a visit to Fee, which, 
with the ascents and passes on the W. 
side of the valley, is described in Rtes. 
O and P. On the E. side it is worth 
while, if a traveller have leisure, to 
make the excursion to the inn above 
Trift Alp, the ascents and passes on 



ROUTE N. VISP TO MACUGNAGA BY THE MONTE MORO 541 



the E. side of the valley being enume- 
rated in § 21. Rtes. B, C, and E. 

The path from Saas Grund to the 
Monte Moro lies all the way along 
the r. bank of the Visp. The scenery 
is wild and in part dreary, but at 
intervals the eye is relieved by grand 
views of the surrounding peaks and 
glaciers. The geologist cannot fail to 
notice the numerous erratic blocks of 
smaragdite-gabbro, which come from 
a ridge on the 1. bank of the Allalin 
gl., and may be traced at least as far 
as Geneva. In some boulders also 
the rare mineral glaucophane is con- 
spicuous. The first village is A Ima- 
ge 11, nearly at the tree limit, and at 
the junction of the Almagell torrent 
(flowing from the Zwischbergen Pass, 
§ 21. Rte. C, and making a fine water- 
fall some distance above the village) 
with the Visp. 

[From Almagell a path leads up 
direct to Fee, thus enabling those 
descending from the Monte Moro to 
avoid Saas Grund. J 

Little more than a mile farther 
the more considerable torrent from 
the Furgg glen (for the pass to 
Antrona see § 21. Rte. E) descends 
to join the Visp near the houses 
of Zermeiggern. (As shown by a 
Latin document of 129 1, this hamlet 
was called ' Morganum in the Saas 
valley,' to distinguish it from the 
' Morghen ' barrier, or ' Morganum 
in the Macugnaga valley,' the name 
having thus been carried across the 
Moro by the Teutonic settlers from 
the Vallais in the latter spot.) Be- 
yond, the scenery increases in wild- 
ness, and the vegetation becomes 
more decidedly Alpine ; the path 
mounts, but not very rapidly, and at 
length in about 2\ hrs. from Saas the 
traveller overlooks the Mattmark 
Lake. This small lake has been 
formed by the accumulation of the 
waters of the Visp behind the Allalin 
gl., which, like that of Miage, in the 
case of the Lac de Combal, has 
dammed the valley across. The very 
rare Pleurogyne carinthiaca is found 
in grassy spots near the lake, and 



Arenaria aretio'ides in the Ofen glen, 
a little higher up on the E. side of 
the valley. On* the Alp S. of the 
lake there is a small Inn (2,123 m., 
6,966 ft.), convenient as a starting 
point for the Adler Pass (Rte. O) or 
the Schwarzberg Weissthor (Rte. F) 
to Zermatt, and even for the Monte 
Moro itself, which is thus reached at 
an early hour, the chance of a clear 
view being thus greatly increased. 
Not far from the inn are some huge 
blocks of serpentine, brought down 
by the Schwarzberg gl. At no great 
distance from the inn, beyond the 
opening of the Ofen glen (for the pass 
to Antrona see §21. Rte. E. 3.), are 
the chalets of the Distel Alp. Amidst 
wild and dreary scenery the ascent 
continues by a tolerable mule path 
(on the way, as on the other side, are 
seen traces of the mediaeval paved 
track) to the Thalliboden hollow or 
plain. Here mules must be left, and 
the ascent continues by some steps 
cut in the rock, and along the \V. 
edge of the Thalliboden gl. (the gl. 
itself is not touched). Some snow 
slopes then lead to the pass (2 hrs. 
! from Mattmark), 2,862 m., 9.390 ft. 

[Travellers should note that the 
tempting opening at the E. head of 
the gl. is not the Moro, but the Mon- 
delli Pass, 2,841 m., 9,321 ft., 
whence M. Rosa is not seen, used 
in winter, and at other times, as a 
short cut to Ceppomorelli, in the Val 
Anzasca, 5 hrs. from Mattmark. J 

Many of the passes in this district 
may tempt, more than does the Monte 
Moro, the adventurous traveller, who 
loves the flavour of difficulty, not to 
say danger, but there is perhaps none 
which offers a scene of such surpass- 
ing grandeur as is here unrolled be- 
fore his eyes. The view of the 
precipitous E. face of Monte Rosa is 
perhaps more wonderful and unique 
when seen from the Pizzo Bianco, but 
the elements of the sublime and 
beautiful are combined in a more 
complete picture by the panorama 
from the Monte Moro. It is well 
worth while to ascend (f hr.) the 



542 PENNINE ALPS. § 20. MONTE ROSA DISTRICT 



Joderhorn (3,040 m., 9,974 ft.), E. 
of the pass. The view of Monte Rosa 
is not finer, for in truth that cannot 
be surpassed, but the eye is enabled 
to contrast it with the distant pro- 
spect over the plain of N. Italy, in- 
cluding a glimpse of the Lago Mag- 
giore and the southern ranges of the 
Alps. Even without going as far as 
the Joderhorn the panorama may be 
extended by mounting the rocks be- 
hind the wooden cross on the pass, 
so as to gain the view of Monte Rosa 
on the one side and that of the entire 
Saas valley on the other. 

* The colonies of Italians at Saas 
(1250), and of Vallaisans at Macug- 
naga (between 1262 and 1291), imply 
the frequent use of the Monte Moro, 
but the first distinct mention of a path 
across it occurs in a document of 
1403, by which the men of the two 
valleys agree to keep in repair the 
track on their respective sides of the 
pass, while in 14 10 the Vallais men 
made a raid across it, but were de- 
feated at Vanzone. It was much used 
in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries 
by pilgrims to Varallo, and by per- 
sons going to the fair at Macugnaga 
or Vogogna. The name seems to be 
a cross between two old names — 
Magganaberg (the Macugnaga moun- 
tain or pass) and Mons Mart is, a 
Latinised form referring to the Mar- 
tinswald, or Mattwald, below Saas, 
frequently mentioned in old docu- 
ments. The latter name appears also 
under the form Mundmar, and is 
connected with the Mattmark. In 
any case the name of the pass has 
nothing to do with Ludovico il Moro, 
duke of Milan' (M.) It is scarcely 
necessary to say that the name Monte 
Moro applies to the pass, and not to 
any of the neighbouring summits. All 
the old passes across the Alps received 
this prefix, distinct names for separate 
peaks not being recognised till a 
much later date. 

[By bearing W. from the pass and 
traversing the upper snows of the 
Seewinen and Schwarzberg gls., it is 
easy to reach the Schwarzberg Weiss- 



thor (Rte. F. c) in 3 hrs., and thence 
go either to Zermatt or back to Matt- 
mark by the Schwarzberg gl.] 

The descent from the Col to Ma- 
cugnaga is long, and for so frequented 
a pass very steep ; but the view 
which remains before the traveller's 
eyes prevents the way from becoming 
tedious. The modern mule track 
begins again at the first chalets. On 
approaching the valley some scattered 
pines represent the remains of the 
forest that once filled the basin of 
Macugnaga. In 2 hrs. from the pass 
the inns at Macugnaga are gained. 
In the opposite direction 4 hrs. are 
needed from Macugnaga to the top, 
and about the same time for the de- 
scent to Saas Grund. 



Route O. 

SAAS TO ZERMATT. 

The range of the Saasgrat, extend- 
ing from the Strahlhorn to the Balfrin, 
ranks next in height to those of 
Mont Blanc and Monte Rosa, and 
serves to separate the valleys of Saas 
and Zermatt. Despite the great 
elevation of this range, the passes 
across it are by no means hard, save 
the two difficult and dangerous tra- 
verses made in 1869 by Messrs. G. 
E. Foster and H. Walker, which we 
do not count as ' passes ' — the Dom- 
joch (4,286 m., 14,062 ft.), between 
the Taschhorn and the Dom, and the 
Nadeljoch (4,167 m., 13,672 ft.), be- 
tween the Dom and the Sudlenz- 
spitze. It seems most convenient to 
reserve for the next Rte. a description 
of the passes over the N. end of this 
great chain, leading to the Ried gl. 
In this Rte. we include the four main 
passes between the Taschhorn and 
the Dom, referring to Rte. F. c. for 
an account of the Schwarzberg Weiss- 
thor, the easiest of all. The last- 



ROUTE O. SAAS TO ZERMATT 



543 



named pass, like the Adler, is best 
taken from the Mattmark inn ; the 
others are easily gained from Saas 
Fee, though the little-used Allalin 
Pass is also reached without any 
trouble from Mattmark. A summary 
of the chief ascents to be made from 
Saas Fee will be found under the 
pass which from its popularity claims 
the first place. 

i. By the Alphubel Pass, or the 
Pee Pass. — These two passes are 
attained by such similar routes on 
either side that they may be described 
together. Some good authorities 
prefer the Fee Pass of the two, and 
it is certainly the most convenient, 
if it be intended to ascend the 
Allalinhorn. 

The upland valley of Fee (the name 
of which should not be accented, as it 
has no connection with fairies, but is 
derived from the old German word 
k feoh,' meaning cattle, or from 'fea,' 
a Romance word signifying a ewe, 
being in reality the pasturage ground 
of the inhabitants of Saas Grund) lies 
in a recess in the Saasgrat, and has 
only of late years, owing to the con- 
struction of several large inns, become 
a popular place of sojourn. The upper 
part of the basin in which is the ham- 
let of Fee is filled by the extensive 
Fee gl. , round which rise in a grand 
amphitheatre most of the highest 
peaks of the Saasgrat. On the r. of 
the spectator is the Siidle?izspitze(^, 300 
m., 14,108 ft.), which leads the eye up 
to the precipitous twin peaks of the 
Dom and the Taschhorn, the culmi- 
nating summits of the range. More 
to the S. are the flattened summit of 
the Alphubel (4,207 m., 13,803 ft.) 
and the pointed Allalinhorn (4,034 
m., 13,236 ft.) From the latter peak 
a great ridge extends in a N.E. 
direction, forming the 1. boundary of 
this wonderful amphitheatre, and ter- 
minating in the sharp, rocky summits 
of the Egginer (3,377 m. , 1 1,080 ft. ), 
and of the Mittaghorn (3,148 m., 
10,329 ft.) It is over this wide gl. and 
through gaps between the peaks that 
have just been enumerated that the 



traveller bound for Zermatt across the 
snow fields must make his way. 

Fee is reached in £ hr. from Saas 
Grund by a mule track which crosses 
the Visp opposite Grund, and mounts 
through a forest and past the chapel 
of St. Joseph and the hamlet of 
Wildi to the highest hamlet, Fee 
(1,798 m., 5,899 ft.), now often called 
Saas Fee, in order to fix its position 
and to distinguish it from the main 
village in the valley below. 

[Apart from the excursion de- 
scribed in connection with the Alphu- 
bel Pass to the Lange Fluh, the 
ascents of the Egginer or of the 
Mittaghorn are probably the most 
frequently made from Fee. The 
former summit is accessible in about 
5 hrs. by way of the Gaden huts, the 
E. rim of the Fee gl. , the small gl. on 
the W. flank of the peak, and the S. 
arete, while the latter summit is at- 
tained in 3 hrs. by rounding the base of 
its N. ridge, and then climbing its S. E. 
arete. Lovers of rock scrambles are 
recommended to go from the lower 
peak to the higher (4 hrs. ) at first on 
the E., then on the W. side of the 
narrow ridge which connects them. 
Other favourite climbs from Fee are 
those of theNadelhorn, Siidlenzspitze, 
Balfrin, and Ulrichshom (all de- 
scribed in Rte. P), and of the Alla- 
linhorn and Alphtibel, described be- 
low. The ascent of the Dom by the 
great E. face is very dangerous, by 
reason of falling stones ; that of the 
Taschhorn from the E. is very steep 
and difficult, though not so dangerous, 
and may be best made from Fee by 
the ridge running up from the Mi- 
schabeljoch to the peak. Another 
popular rock climb is that of the Port- 
jengrat, on the E. side of the Saas 
valley (see § 21. Rte. C). On the 
same side are the two peaks of the 
Fletschhorn, and the Weissmies, 
which if taken from Fee involve a 
descent to the main valley before the 
real climb begins, and so may be most 
conveniently made from the inn above 
the Trift Alp (see § 21. Rtes. B and 
C). There is a direct path from Fee 



544 PENNINE ALPS. § 20. MONTE ROSA DISTRICT 



to the village of Almagell, which 
shortens the way to some of these 
points if taken from Fee. J 

The Fee gl. is divided into two 
large branches by the rocky promon- 
tory of the Gletscher Alp, visible from 
the village of Fee. A zigzag path 
leads up to the huts of that name in 
hr. from Fee, and it is worth 
while, even for those not crossing any 
glacier pass, to continue to mount to 
the upper end of the promontory, or 
Lange Fluh (1 hr. more). Here the 
ice is entered on. A party bound for 
the Alphubel Pass must then mount 
the gl. in a slightly S.W. direction, 
keeping to the L of a great wall of rocks 
coming down from the Alphubel peak, 
3 hrs. from the Lange Fluh sufficing 
to reach the pass (3,802 m., 12,474 
ft.) (If bound for the Fee Pass, the 
ascent from the Lange Fluh must be 
made in a nearly due S. direction, the 
pass (3,812 m., 12,507 ft.), at theW. 
foot of the Allalinhorn, being also 
gained in about 3 hrs. ) 

The Alphubel Pass was discovered 
by Mr. Leslie Stephen in 1 860, but first 
completely traversed in the following 
year by Messrs. F. F. Tuckett and C. 

H. Fox. The peak of the Alphubel 
(4,207 nr., 13,803 ft.) can be climbed 
from it in 2 hrs., and commands a 
fine view, though the Bernese Ober- 
land peaks are already in sight from 
the pass itself. But the icy slopes are 
not always easy, and this summit is 
more easily reached by a snow ridge 
in I hr. from the Mischabeljoch, on its 
N. On the other hand, easy snow 
slopes lead from the Fee Pass in 
\\ hr. up the Allalinhorn (4,034 m., 
13,236 ft.), a very fine point of view ; 
it can be gained by several other 
routes, and taken on the way from 
Fee to Zermatt. 

The easiest way down from the 
Alphubel Pass is to bear round to the 

I. , so as ultimately to gain the rock 
ridge between the Wand and Melli- 
chen gis., and then the r. bank of the 
latter ice stream, where the route from 
the Fee Pass (broken rocks above) is 
joined. In about 2 hrs. from either 



pass the inn on the lower Tasch Alp 
(2, 1 17 m. , 6,946 ft. ) is gained. There 
is a foot path hence to Zermatt (and 
also a direct descent to the hamlet of 
Tasch), carried for a considerable 
distance along a watercourse. It 
joins the main track in the Zermatt 
valley a short distance below the 
bridge over the Visp between Tasch 
and Zermatt. About i-| hr. are re- 
quired from the Tasch inn to Zermatt. 

2. By the Mischabeljoch. — This 
pass lies between the Taschhorn and 
the Alphubel peak, and was first 
effected in 1862 by Messrs. H. B. 
George, C. and W. Trotter, and 
Thomason, with Christian Aimer 
and Peter Bohren. It is harder, 
though shorter in point of distance, 
than the passes described under 1. 
\ hr. beyond the Lange Fluh the 
Alphubel Pass route is left, and 
then a rock ridge more to the N.W., 
snow slopes, and a final ice slope 
ascended to the Col, 3,856 m., 
12,651 ft. (3§ hrs. from the Lange 
Fluh. ) The view may be much ex- 
tended by following an easy snow 
ridge on the S. to the summit of the 
Alphubel peak (1 hr. ) The rocky 
ridge on the N.W. offers the best, 
though not altogether easy, route 
from Fee up the Taschhorn, which 
is reached in 5-6 hrs. from the pass. 

The first party were forced to cut 
down the icefall of the Weingarteji 
gl. , on the W. side of the pass. But 
in 1867 Messrs. D. W. Freshfield, 
T. H. Carson, and C. C. Tucker, 
with D. Bailey and Franz Andermat- 
ten, were accidentally led by chamois 
tracks from the easy upper portion of 
that gl. to a point in the rocks on the 
1. of the icefall, from which the de- 
scent was found perfectly easy. The 
Alphubel and Fee Pass routes are 
joined in 2\ hrs. from the Col at the 
Tasch inn. 

3. By the Allalin Pass. — This is 
the oldest of all the passes between the 
Saas and Zermatt valleys, and the 
references in old writers to a pass over 
the Saasgrat all apply to it. It was 
reached from the W. side in 1845 by an 



ROUTE O. SAAS 

English party— one member was I 
named Shuttle worth— but first crossed 
in modern times by Herr Imseng (the 
priest of Saas) thrice before 1847, and | 
by Professor Ulrich's party in 1847. j 
As it is inferior in scenery to its rivals, 
and a less direct way from Saas than 
the passes already described, it may 
be here dismissed shortly. 

If the start be made from Matt- 
mark, the Allalin gl. is reached by 
the same route as for the Adler Pass 
.(below, 4), and the pass (3,570 m., 
11,713 ft.) gained by making a great 
bend to the N. over that gl. (4 \ hrs. 
from Mattmark. ) A party coming 
from Fee must cross the ridge running 
N.E. from the Allalinhorn about 
midway between that summit and the 
Egginer, and then a broad snow col 
from the Hohlaub gl. to the Allalin gl. , 
the pass being attained in 5 hrs. or so 
from Fee. 

The view from the Col includes 
the great peaks enclosing the Zermatt 
valley from the Lyskamm to the Weiss- 
horn, but may be much extended by 
climbing (in 2 hrs.) up the rocky 
ridge on the N.E. to the Allalinhorn^ 
a course taken on the occasion of the 
first ascent of that peak in 1856 by 
Mr. Ames. But the most striking 
object near the pass is the craggy 
peak of the Ri?npfischhom (4,203 m., 
12,790 ft.), the climb up which from 
the pass by a jagged rock arete is 
very difficult and takes 5 hrs. 

On the W. side the descent down 
the Mellichen gl. is perfectly straight- 
forward, and at its farther end the 
Alphubel Pass route is joined. The 
Tasch Alp inn may be reached in 2\ 
hrs. from the pass. 

4. By the Adler Pass.— This is, 
perhaps, the most interesting of the 
passes from Saas to Zermatt, and was 
discovered by Herr Imseng, Professor 
Ulrich, and G. Studer, who made 
the first passage in 1849. But it was 
only in 1853, when Herr Imseng 
crossed it again, with Sir Alfred 
Wills, that it obtained its present 
name from an eagle's feather found 
on the crest of the ridge. The pass 
I. 



TO ZERMATT 545 

may be reached from Fee by the 
route described under 3. But it is 
more convenient to start from the 
Mattmark inn. A rough track leads 
thence across the Schwarzberg gl. 
stream and up steep slopes to the 
point marked 2,872 m. on the Swiss 
map. The ascent then lies up the 
Allalin gl., the Allalin Pass being at 
the N.W. corner of the quadrangle 
enclosing that gl., and the Adler 
I Pass at the S.W. corner. The latter 
j pass is gained in 4J hrs. from Matt- 
! mark (6 hrs. from Fee), and is at a 
height of 3,798 m. (12,461 ft.) be- 
tween the Rimpfischhorn and the 
I Strahlhorn. Hence the great range 
from Monte Rosa to the Gabelhorn is 
in sight. But no traveller, favoured 
' by clear weather, should neglect to 
! mount the easy snow slopes on the 
! S.E. to the summit of the Strahlhorn, 
: 4,191 m., 13,751 ft. (1 hr.), which 
\ commands one of the finest panoramic 
j views in the Pennine Alps. Though 
1 a few feet lower than its neighbour, 
: the Rimpfischhorn, it is better situated, 
the prospect to the E. and S. being 
comparatively clear. For this reason 
! it is hard to point out a rival view in 
which all the elements that make up 
the grandeur of Alpine scenery are so 
perfectly combined. The Rimpfisch- 
horn (4,203 m. , 13,790 ft.) maybe 
gained by a scramble of 3 hrs. from 
the Col up rocks. 

The first bit of the descent fr'>m the 
Adler Pass was formerly feared, but is 
not now regarded as formidable even 
by novices. It consists of a steep ice 
slope resting against the rocks of the 
Rimpfischhorn, which are too smooth 
to offer hold for hands or feet. The 
descent is generally made close to 
these rocks, but the distance is for- 
tunately not great, so that J-f hr. 
suffices to land the travellers at the 
head of the Adler gl., a tributary of 
the mightier Findelen gl. Here the 
Zermatt and RifTel routes divide. 

If bound for the tipper Riffel inn, 
it is best to bear S. from the upper 
bit of the Adler gl. , and to keep over 
the upper snows round the E. end of 
N N 



546 PENNINE ALPS. § 20. MONTE ROSA DISTRICT 



the Stockhorn, till the Schwarzberg 
Weissthor route is gained. For Zer- 
matt and the Riffei Alp the crevasses 
at the W. end of the Adler gl. are 
threaded, or turned by the moraine 
on the r. bank. Then the descent 
down the Findelen gl. to the Fluh alp 
inn (2 hrs. from the pass) is easy. A 
party bound for Zermatt has simply 
to follow the beaten track thence, 
w T hile from the Griinsee inn (see Rte. 
A. 1), on the other side of that 
glacier, there is a nearly level mule 
path to the RifYel Alp, if that be the 
object of the day's journey. 

It is possible to combine bits of 
some of these passes on the way over 
from Saas to Zermatt, and of course 
the peaks between them can be tra- 
versed, without touching the summit 
of any of the passes themselves. 



Route P. 

SAAS TO ST. NIKLAUS. 

It has been already pointed out 
(Rte. A. 3. k. ) that, only separated 
from the Dom by the depression of 
the Nadeljoch, there rises the Siid- 
lenzspitze (4,300 m., 14,108 ft.), 
whence the ridge of the Saasgrat, 
hitherto running N. and S., takes a 
bend to the N.W. The next, and 
highest, summit on this N.W. spur is 
the Nadelhorn (4,334 m., 14,220 ft.), j 
at which point this spur splits into \ 
two great ridges. That known as the j 
Nadelgrat runs in a N.W. direction, 
and is crowned by several lofty 
points, while a lower ridge bends 
first N.E. to the Ulrichshorn (3,929 
m., 12,891 ft.), and then N. to the 
Balfrin (3,802 m., 12,474 ft.), which 
forms the N. end of the Saasgrat, 
.and is the summit which is so con- 
spicuous from Visp and the valley of 
the Rhone. Between these two 
branches extends the vast Ried gl., 
the vast dimensions of which startle 
the traveller, as it is quite invisible 



from below. It offers in itself but 
slight difficulties, but access to it from 
the Saas side is not altogether easy, 
and the routes are intricate. On that 
side there are two smaller gls. : that 
to the S. is the Hohbalen gl., and 
gives access to the Windjock [c, 
3,800 m., 12,468 ft.), between the 
Nadelhorn and the Ulrichshorn, while 
that to the N. is the Bider gl. , at 
the head of which is the Ried Pass 
(11,800 ft.), between the Ulrichshorn 
and the Balfrin. But, as the Bider 
gl. is very steep, it is usual to gain 
the Ried Pass by climbing from the 
I. bank of the Hohbalen gl. up the 
rock wall which supports the r. bank 
of the Bider gl. , and then following 
the crest of that wall. Hence the 
Windjoch is the shortest and best of 
these two passes. 

(a) The Windjoch.— Though this 
pass was not discovered till 1886 by 
Sir Martin Conway, and Messrs. 
Scriven and West, it is now the usual 
route from Fee to the Ried gl. , 
whence several of the great peaks 
around may be climbed. The way 
thither from Fee lies along the 1. 
bank of the torrent flowing from the 
Hohbalen gl. , the rock ridge between 
that gl. and a smaller one, the Fall 
gl. , on the S., and the upper snows of 
the Hohbalen gl. (4J hrs. ) 

(b) The Ried Pass. — Formerly this 
was the direct glacier route from Saas 
to St. Niklaus, from at any rate 1848, 
when it was discovered by Herr 
Imseng and Prof. Ulrich, till the 
discovery of the Windjoch. As in- 
dicated above, the way from Saas 
Grund or Fee lies past the Hamiig 
huts and along the 1. bank of the 
Hohbalen gl. to the base of the rock 
wall stretching from the Ulrichshorn 
to the Gemshorn, and supporting the 
r. bank of the Bider gl. This wall is 
then scaled by a snow couloir or the 
rocks E. of it, and then its crest 
followed till it is possible to traverse 
the upper snows of that gl. to the 
pass (5^ hrs. from Grund, 5 hrs. from 
Fee). 

The traveller having reached by one 



ROUTE P. SAAS TO ST. NIKLAUS 



547 



or ether of these passes the edge of the 
Ried gl. , finds himself overlooking 
a broad, level plateau of neve separat- 
ing the Nadelgrat from the Balfrin. 

[If the latter peak, a wonderful 
panoramic point, is the object of 
the traveller, he has only to cross 
this plateau in a N. direction, and 
attain the summit either by its face or 
by either ridge (i hr. from the Ried 
Pass, rather more from the Windjoch). 
The summit was first reached in 
1 863 by Mr. and Mrs. R. Spence 
Watson, and Herr Imseng, and com- 
mands a view which is admirable in 
itself, and is all the more striking in 
that the still higher peaks of the 
Dom, Weisshorn, &c. , are near at 
hand. It is easy to descend by the 
Balfrin gl. , on the N., to the Saas 
valley a little above the Hutegg inn, 
the start being made from the gap 
between the two points of the Balfrin. 

The Ulrichshorn (named in 1848 
in honour of one of its conquerors, 
Prof. Ulrich) is accessible by easy 
snow slopes in 1 hr. from the Ried 
Pass, or J hr. from the Windjoch. 
From the latter pass the Nadelhor)i 
may be climbed by an easy ridge 
(2 hrs. ) The Siidhnzspitze is best 
attained by continuing to follow the 
difficult E. arete, after the Windjoch 
route quits it (8 hrs. from Fee to the 
summit), or by gaining this ridge by 
a steep snow couloir from the upper 
snows of the Hohbalen gl.] 

The descent from either pass to- 
wards St. Niklaus is the same, and 
offers no real difficulties. After leav- 
ing the great plateau of neve at the 
head of the gl. it is best to turn the 
upper icefall by the moraine on its r. 
bank, and then to cross between the 
two icefalls to the 1. bank of the gl. 
A track between the hill-side and 
the moraine is followed to the 
Schallbett chalet, below the tail of the 
gl., and thenceforward there is a 
good path past the village of Gasen- 
ried to St. Niklaus (4J hrs.), or a 
more direct descent along a water- 
course and the 1. bank of the torrent 
from the Ried gl. 



SECTION 21. 

SIMPLON DISTRICT. 

Between the valley of Saas, de- 
scribed in the last Section, and the 
Simplon Pass there is a very con- 
siderable mountain range, parallel in 
its general direction with the Saas- 
grat, and important enough in any 
other neighbourhood than that of 
Monte Rosa to have early attracted 
the attention of mountaineers. After 
long neglect this fine chain has now 
been thoroughly explored, at any raie 
on its Swiss side. From the Joder- 
horn, E. of the Monte Moro, to the 
Portjengrat (3,660 m., 12,008 ft.) the 
range in question forms the watershed 
between Switzerland and Italy, the 
Italian slope being all but entirely 
occupied by the fine and extensive 
valley of Antrona, still scarceiv 
known to English travellers. N. of 
the Portjengrat rises the Weissmies 
(4,031 m., 13,226 ft.), the loftiest 
summit of the chain. Still farther to 
the N. are the twin summits of the 
Fletschhorn — the S. peak being the 
Laquinhom (4,005 m., 13,140 ft.], 
and the N. peak the Rossbodenhcm 
(4,001 m., 13,128 ft.) On the E. 
side of this portion of the range one 
very long (Zwischbergen) and two 
short (Laquin and Rossboden) glens 
stretch down to the Simplon road, 
all being by a freak of historical 
geography in Switzerland, though on 
the S. side of the main chain of the 
Alps. A little to the N. of the 
Rossbodenhorn the chain forks, and 
two parallel ridges of no great height, 
enclosing between them the Gamser- 
thal, descend towards the Rhone 
valley between Visp and Brieg. The 
N. half of this long range is high, 
and so steep that the Saas valley and 
the Simplon road are in some places 
not more than 7 miles apart. Fur- 
ther S. the summits are lower, but 
two great ridges project to the E. 
which enclose the Antrona valley, 



548 PENNINE ALPS. § 21. SIMPLON DISTRICT 



and a smaller glen called Val 
Bognanco. This Section therefore 
comprises a description of those two 
glens, and of the peaks on and passes 
over the main chain, leading from the 
Saas valley to the Simplon road. 
It is also convenient to include an 
account of the route from Geneva to 
Milan by way of the Rhone valley 
and the Simplon Pass, as that line 
forms precisely the N. and E. limits 
of this volume. The mountains E. 
of the Simplon will be noticed in 
§ 29, and are described minutely in 
the ' Lepontine Alps ' volume (1892) 
of the ' Climbers' Guides ' series. 



Route A. 



GENEVA TO MILAN BY THE 
SIMPLON PASS. 





English Miles 


Nyon (by railway) 




Morges 


. 30 


"Lausanne 


. 33 


Vevey . 


• 50 


Montr eux 


. 53h 


Villeneuve -» 


- 56* 


Aigle . 


. teh 


Bex 


. 6 7 h 


St. Maurice . 


• 70 


Martigny 


• 79h 


Sion 


• 95* 


Sierre . 


. 105 


Leuk . 


in 


Turtmann . 


. 114 


Gampel 


. 116^ 


Visp 




Brieg . 


. 128J 


Berisal (by road) . 


. i37 


Simplon Hospice 


• i43 b 


Simplon village 


: 148^ 


Gondo . 


. 154V 


Iselle . 


. 1572 


Varzo . 


. 162^ 


Crevola 


. 166 - 


Domo d'Ossola 


. 168 


Villa d'Ossola (by 


rail) . 172^ 


Piedimulera . 


• 175 


V ogogna 


• 177 h 


Cuzzago 


. 182 


Ornavasso 


. 184^ 


Gravellona Toce 


. 188 



I Thence 

either by 

Omegna (by rail) . .192 

Orta .... 197^ 

Gozzano . . . 202 

Novara . . . 223 

Rho .... 246^ 

Milan .... 255^ 

or by 

Baveno (by road) . . 192^ 

Stresa .... 195^ 

Arona .... 2063- 

Sesto Calende (by rail) 212 

Gallarate . . . 222 

Rho . . . . 238 

Milan .... 247 



Railway from Geneva to Brieg, 6^-7 hrs. 
by fast trains (steamer from Geneva 
to Villeneuve, 4 hrs., as against o.\ 
hrs. by rail) ; from Brieg to Domo 
d'Ossola by high road, about 10 hrs. 
by diligence ; from Domo d'Ossola to 
Gravellona Toce by rail ( 1 \ hrs. ) Then 
either by rail to Milan via Novara 
(4|— 4 1 hrs. from Domo to Milan), or 
by high road for 18 h m. to Arona, 
and then by rail to Milan via Gal- 
larate (Arona to Milan, 2.\ hrs.) The 
lines from Arona and Novara meet 
at Rho, 9 m. from Milan. 

We include in this Rte. the greater 
part of the celebrated road designed 
by Napoleon to connect France and 
Italy by way of Geneva and the 
Simplon Pass, which continues, though 
injured by the Mont Cenis and St. 
Gotthard tunnels, to be one of the 
main lines of communication across 
the Alps. It is also one of the most 
interesting for those who are com- 
pelled by infirmity or indolence to 
keep to carriage roads. The original 
road was carried along the S. side of 
the Lake of Geneva (for a description 
of that shore see § 17. Rte. K), and 
then through the Rhone valley to 
Brieg. The main difficulties and the 
heaviest expenditure were naturally 
encountered in traversing the pass 
itself from Brieg to Domo d'Ossola, 
especially in the descent on the S. 
side. (A tunnel is projected, which 
will run from Brieg to Iselle in ii- 
12J in., and it now really seems as 
if this project would soon, after many 
delays, be carried out. ) From Domo 



ROUTE A. GENEVA TO MILAN BY THE SIMPLON PASS 549 



d'Ossola the course selected was along 
the valley of the Tosa (or Toce), and 
after some doubt as to the relative 
advantages of a line by the Lake of 
Orta or t^e Lago Maggiore the latter 
was ultimately selected, and the road 
was carried past Arona to Sesto 
Calende at the S. end of the lake, 
and thence across the plain to Milan. 
The recent opening of a railway from 
Domo by Orta to the great railway 
junction of Novara has changed the 
course of traffic, though leisurely 
travellers will prefer to combine both 
routes by going from Orta to the 
Lago Maggiore over the splendid 
view-point of the Mottarone. The 
extension of railways and steamers 
has reduced to secondary importance 
the portions of the high road between 
Geneva and Brieg, and between 
Domo and Milan, so that the only 
part of the original road which still 
continues to serve for general traffic 
is that between Brieg and Domo 
d'Ossola. Reserving a brief notice 
of the history of the road and pass till 
we reach Brieg, and premising that 
the ranges on the N. side of the Lake 
of Geneva and of the Rhone valley, 
as well as those E. of the actual pass 
itself, will be described in detail in 
the second volume of this work, we 
proceed to give an outline of the chief 
objects of interest passed by the tra- 
veller on his long journey. Those 
who are not in haste should certainly 
take the steamer from Geneva to Ville- 
neuve in preference to the railway. 

Geneva itself has been noticed in 
§16. Rte. A, so that we may here 
confine our attention to the Lake of 
Geneva, or Lac Leman, which is the 
largest of the Alpine lakes, according 
to Professor Forel, of Morges (consult 
his most elaborate monograph ' Le 
Leman,' of which two of the three 
volumes were published at Lausanne 
in 1892 and 1895). ^ ts f° rm 1S that 
of a crescent with the horns pointing 
S. Its length in a straight line from 
Geneva to Chillon is 39§ m. , but 
along its axis 45 m. The crescent 
form was more regular at a recent 



geological period, when the lake ex- 
tended to Bex, about 11 m. S. of 
Yilleneuve. The detritus of the 
Rhone has filled up this portion of 
the bed of the lake, and it appears 
that within the historical period the 
waters reached about i-§ m. beyond 
the present E. margin of the lake, to 
Port Vallais. The height of the sur- 
( face varies according to the season, 
the mean height, according to Pro- 
I fessor Forel, being 1.220J ft. The 
I level is subject to occasional oscilla- 
tions, amounting to as much as 5 ft. , 
which last for a short time, after 
which it returns to its previous condi- 
tion. These curious fluctuations^ 
called seiches, appear to be independ- 
ent of the direction of the wind, but 
connected with changes of weather. 
They are probably caused by the un- 
equal pressure of the atmosphere on 
j different portions of the surface at 
I times when its equilibrium is dis- 
| turbed. It is said that they occur 
j most frequently at the two extremi- 
ties of the lake. The greatest depth 
is 1,017 ft. , in tri e broad portion of 
: the lake between Evian and Ouchy, 
: a considerable area in this part lying 
between this and 985 ft. The 
greatest width is 8f m. , between 
I Morges and Amphion. The total 
1 area is 225^ sq. m., of which the 
: Petit Lac (between Geneva and 
; Yvoire, on the French side, nearly 
I opposite Nyon) claims 30^- sq. m. 
: and the Grand Lac the remaining 
\ I94| sq. m. 

The beauty of the shores of the 
lake and of the sites of many of the 
places near its banks has long been 
celebrated, and can scarcely fail to 
strike the least susceptible traveller. 
It is well, however, to mention that 
it is only from the E. end of the lake, 
between Vevey and Villeneuve, that 
the scenery assumes the character of 
grandeur. The hills on the Savoy 
side are for the most part rugged and 
sombre, while those of the Swiss 
shore fall in gentle vine-covered 
slopes, thickly set with villages and 
chateaux. Mont Blanc and the snowy 



550 PENNINE ALPS. § 21. SIMPLON DISTRICT 



peaks of that chain are scarcely seen 
except from Geneva and between 
Nyon and Morges. From Vevey 
to Bex, whither the lake originally 
extended, the shores are enclosed by 
comparatively high and bold moun- 
tains, and the vista terminates in the 
grand portal of the defile of St. 
Maurice, cleft to a depth of nearly 
9,000 ft. between the opposite peaks 
of the Dent du Midi and the Dent de 
Morcles. The first place of much 
note on the Swiss shore is Coppet, 
where the traveller may visit the 
Chateau, once inhabited by Necker, 
and afterwards by Madame de Stael. 
Some souvenirs of the latter are still 
shown. About 5 m. further is Nyon, 
formerly a Roman settlement. Near 
it is the beautiful Chateau and park of 
Prangi?is, formerly the property of 
Prince Napoleon. 

[Nyon is the best starting point for 
St. Cergues, whence 2 hrs. suffice to 
make the ascent of the Dole ( 1 ,678 m. , 
5,505 ft.), for a notice of which see 
§ 16. Rte. A. From Nyon a good 
carriage road leads up in 5-| m. to the 
large hydropathic establishment of 
Divo?ine, 470 m. , 1,542 ft. J 

The next little town is Rolle, oppo- 
site Thonon, and the broad opening 
of the valley of the Dranse d'Abon- 
dance, through which the chain of 
Mont Blanc comes into view and is 
seen for several miles to the E. 

[On a hill above the station of 
Allanian, 3 J m. from Rolle, is 
Aubonne, a curious little town, finely 
situated, and commanding one of the 
best views over the lake. The 
Chateau was built by Tavernier, the 
Eastern traveller, in recollection of 
that of Erivan, on the frontier of 
Persia. The view is still more strik- 
ing from the Signal de Bongy (712m., 
2,336 ft.), \ hr. from Aubonne.] 

Morges is a town, with a little port, 
one of the most important commer- 
cially on the lake. The Chateau de 
Vufflens is said to have been founded 
in the tenth century by Queen Bertha, 
but is probably a fourteenth-century 
building. It is near Morges that 



Mont Blanc is best seen from the 
shores of the lake. 

The high road keeps near the 
shore, but the railway turns inland to 
the Renens station, where the lines 
from Vallorbes, Yverdon, and Neu- 
chatel join that from Geneva. 3 m. 
further is 

Lausanne (475 m., 1,558 ft.), the 
chief town of the Canton of Vaud. It 
is picturesquely situated on the lower 
slopes of the Jorat, 328 ft. above 
the lake, and divided by ravines 
which make the old streets hilly 
and inconvenient, but recently several 
new comparatively level streets have 
been pierced. There is a funicular 
railway from the station up to the 
town, and down to the suburb of 
Ouchy, on the lake. 

Many English and other strangers 
reside at Lausanne, partly for the sake 
of the climate, less cold in winter 
than that of Geneva, partly for rea- 
sons of economy, and largely for the 
educational advantages to be had in 
and near the town. 

The upper part of the town, still 
called the Cite, contains the Cathe- 
dral Church of Notre Dame, 
which from 590 to the time of the 
Reformation was the see of a bishop 
whose diocese included most of W. 
Switzerland. It was founded in 1000, 
but the existing building dates from 
1275, and is one of the finest archi- 
tectural monuments in Switzerland. 
It contains several interesting monu- 
ments, a fine W. door, and a thir- 

< teenth- century rose window in the S. 

' transept. The view from the terrace 
at the W. end of the church alone 
suffices to reward the trouble of the 
ascent. The Chateau, formerly the 
residence of the bishops, is a pictur- 
esque pile of the early fifteenth century. 
Not far from the Cathedral is the 
University (till 1 89 1 only an ' Aca- 

; demie '), in which is the Ca?ztonal 
Museum, with natural history collec- 
tions, and some lake dwelling and 
Roman antiquities, and also the Can- 
tonal Library (60,000 vols.) The 
Musee A r laud 'has many pictures by 



ROUTE A. GENEVA TO MILAN BY THE SIMPLON PASS 551 



modern Swiss artists. One of the 
finest modern buildings in the town 
is the Fede?'al Palace of Justice. \ hr. 
from Lausanne, and accessible by a 
carriage road, is the Signal (647 m., 
2,123 ft.), on the slopes of the forat, 
which commands a fine view over the 
lake, &c, not including Mont Blanc. 
' The neighbourhood of Lausanne is 
famous for the number and beauty of 
the walks. Here, and throughout the 
wine-growing districts bordering the 
lake, strangers must beware of the 
alleys between walls and high hedges 
which abound in every direction. 
Appearing to lead up a hill, or to 
some favourable point of view, they 
are constantly closed at the end by a 
gate, with a notice against trespas- 
sers. The law is severely enforced 
against any one entering a vineyard 
without the owner's permission.' (M.) 

Between Lausanne and the lake is 
Ouchy, the port of Lausanne, made 
up of country houses and hotels, as it 
is a favourite place of sojourn. 

Beyond Lausanne the railway line 
to Fribourg and Berne (§22) sepa- 
rates from that to Vevey and Brieg. 
It mounts along the slopes above the 
lake, while the latter descends gradu- 
ally to Vevey, the second town in the 
Canton of Vaud. 

Few spots in the neighbourhood of 
the Alps offer such attractions to 
strangers as Vevey, and the strip of 
land along the shore of the lake ex- 
tending thence to Villeneuve. It 
enjoys the mildest winter climate in 
Switzerland, and is better sheltered 
from cold winds than the shores of 
the Italian lakes, while it is easily 
accessible. It is not surprising, there- 
fore, that both in summer and winter 
the countless hotels and pensions are 
full. The convenience of living in 
or near a town is counterbalanced by 
the want of agreeable walks in the 
immediate neighbourhood of Vevey. 
These are nearly confined to the car- 
riage roads, rather hot and dusty, 
whereas about Montreux and the ad- 
joining villages, where the mountains 
rise nearer at hand, the pedestrian finds 



abundant variety of agreeable excur- 
sions. Boating on the lake is a con- 
stant source of enjoyment, but the 
sudden squalls which come on are 
very dangerous. 

There is not much to engage the 
attention of the sightseer at Vevey, 
! but every rising ground produces 
in new combinations the glorious 
views over the lake. The fifteenth- 
century church of St. Martin, just 
above the town, is visited for the sake 
of the view. It contains the tombs 
of Ludlow, the regicide, and his com- 
panions in exile, Broughton, Love, 
and Cawley. Once in every twenty- 
five years or so (last in 1889) a curious 
festival, said to date from remote 
antiquity, is held on the Place du 
Marche at Vevey. Greek myth and 
sacred history have been laid under 
contribution to supply the personages 
represented by the guild of vintners, 
styled the Abbaye des Vignerons. 
On a hill N.E. of Vevey is the 
Chateau de Blonay, which is said to 
have remained in the family of its 
present owners for over 700 years, 
and commands a noble view. (For 
the route from Vevey to Thun by the 
Simmenthal, a beautiful two days' 
drive, see § 22). 

There is an electric tramway from 
Vevey to Chillon, as well as the rail- 
way line, and the steamers. In 
travelling by railway from Vevey to 
Villeneuve most of the beautiful 
scenery is lost, and those who have too 
little time to visit the neighbourhood 
should at least prefer the steamer. 
The narrow space between the moun- 
tains and the lake is populous with 
many hamlets, with innumerable 
hotels and pensions, besides country 
houses and villas. The names of 
Clarens and Montreux have been 
contantly celebrated both in prose and 
verse, but there are several other 
hamlets not inferior in position. The 
finest site is Glion , reached in iomin, 
from the Territet station by means of 
a funicular railway, which continues 
past Caux (also finely situated) to the 
summit of the Rochers de JVaye f 2,045 



552 PENNINE ALPS. § 21. SIMPLON DISTRICT 



m., 6,710 ft. (1 hr. 20 mm. from Glion ; 
see § 22). 5 m. from Montreux, at 
the head of the valley leading to the 
Col de Jaman (§ 22), is Les Avants 
(985 m. , 3,232 ft.), a favourite resort 
both in summer and winter. 

Rather more than half-way from 
Montreux to Villeneuve is the cele- 
brated Castle of Chillon, built in the 
thirteenth century by Peter of Savoy 
(to whom was also due the palace of 
the Savoy in the Strand). Byron de- 
scribed the imprisonment here of an 
imaginary captive, taking the name of 
a real man, but utterly distorting and 
adorning his real history. The ex- 
treme beauty of the site, and the 
poetic associations linked with the 
place, make it an object of interest to 
almost every traveller, and few fail to 
pay it a visit. 

Quite at the end of the lake, but 
on the E. bank of the Rhone, is 
Villeneuve, lying at the N. extremity 
of a tract of flat alluvial soil, extend- 
ing from near Bex to the present 
border of the lake. The belief that 
the ancient bed of the lake has to 
this extent been filled up by the 
detritus of the Rhone, which needs 
no external evidence to the mind of 
the geologist, is confirmed by the 
identification of Port Vallais, now 1 
rn. from the lake, with the Portus 
Vallesice of the Romans. Drainage 
has done much to correct the un- 
healthy character of the place, but 
travellers sleeping here should ab- 
stain from open windows. On rising 
ground near the lake, and about ^ of 
a mile from Villeneuve, is the Hotel 
Byron, a large, handsome house, one 
of the most agreeable stopping places 
in this beautiful neighbourhood. 
Many pleasant walks and drives may 
be made from here, those on the E. 
being described in § 22, and those on 
the other side of the lake in § 17. 
Rte. K. 

Throughout the way from Ville- 
neuve to Bex the opposite peaks of 
the Dent de Morcles and the Dent 
du Midi continue to attract the atten- 
tion of the mountaineer. The former, 



rising nearly 9,000 ft. from the level 
of the valley, is one of the most im- 
posing in the Alps. (Its ascent is 
described in § 22, while for that of 
the Dent du Midi see § 17. Rte. 
H.) At Aigle the high roads to 
Villars, the Vallee des Ormonts, 
Chateau d'Oex, and the splendid new 
Sanatorium of Leysin turn off to the 
S.E. and N.E. (see § 22.) 

5 m. further is Bex (pronounced 
Be), a large village frequented in 
summer by strangers, on account of 
brine baths derived from the exten- 
sive salt mines about 3 m. off. They 
have been known since the sixteenth 
century, but the salt was obtained 
solely from the springs, then failing, 
when in 1823 M. Charpentier (to 
whose writings, at first received with 
ridicule, we mainly owe the recog- 
nition of the important part played by 
glaciers in the past history of the 
earth) greatly increased the produce 
by driving shafts into the mountain- 
side, and so discovering a rich vein 
of rock salt. The mode of extracting 
the salt from the solution in which it 
is associated with gypsum is similar 
to that employed at Salins, near 
Moutiers Tarentaise (§12. Rte. H). 
About 4 hrs. are required for the visit. 
On the way is passed the hamlet of 
Les D evens 1 formerly the home of a 
family of naturalists, named Thomas, 
whose members made collections of 
dried plants and minerals throughout 
the Swiss Alps and in different parts 
of Italy, which were disposed of on 
moderate terms. Some of this family 
were among the first strangers to visit 
Zermatt, about the middle of the 
eighteenth century, in search of rare 
plants. (For the road to Gryon, and 
thence to Les Pla*is de Frenieres, and 
the Vallee des Ormonts, see § 22, 
and for that by Monthey to Champery 
see § 17. Rte. H.) 

Immediately S. of Bex the Rhone 
is contracted to a mere defile (now 
being fortified by the Swiss Govern- 
ment), which extends for several miles 
between the Dent du Midi and the 
Dent de Morcles. At the N. end of 



ROUTE A. GENEVA TO MILAN BY THE SIMPLON PASS 553 



the defile is a fine bridge, possibly 
resting on Roman foundations, but 
built by the bishop of Sion at the 
end of the fifteenth century. It spans 
the Rhone by a single arch of 72 ft. , 
marking the spot where the road and 
the railway, here carried through the 
rock, are forced to quit the r. bank 
of the Rhone, and to seek a further 
passage through the little town of 

St. Maurice, where our line joins 
that from Bellegarde and Geneva, by 
Thonon, and the S. shore of the Lake 
of Geneva (§17. Rte. K). This place 
is the Roman Agaunum, and is a 
poor-looking place, squeezed into the 
narrow space between the mountain 
and the river. It owes its name to 
the tradition which fixes this as the 
site of the martyrdom of St. Maurice 
and his companions of the Theban 
Legion in a. d. 302. The great Abbey 
(held since the twelfth century by 
Austin Canons Regular) was founded 
in the fourth century by St. Theodule 
or Theodore, the first bishop of Sion, 
and later the patron saint of the 
Vallais. It was richly endowed in 
A.D. 515 by Sigismund, king of Bur- 
gundy, and was for centuries one of 
the most famous religious houses in 
Christendom. The Treasury contains 
several very curious objects — a gold 
crozier of most elaborate workman- 
ship, an agate cup of ancient Greek 
work, &c. There are Roman in- 
scriptions built into the wall of the 
parish church. 

£if m. on the E., in a picturesque 
position under the Dent de Morcles, 
and on the opposite side of the Rhone, 
are the Baths of Lavey. The sul- 
phureous waters are said to be the 
hottest in Switzerland, and to owe 
their medicinal effects to the presence 
of free nitrogen.] 

On the 1. bank of the Rhone, after 
quitting St. Maurice, the Hermitage 
of Notre Dame du Sex is seen at a 
great height on a ledge in the steep 
rock face. It is not easy to see how 
access to it was originally gained, 
before the present long flight of steps 
was cut in the rock. Lower down, 



on the road, the Chapel of Verolliaz, 
covered with frescoes, is supposed to 
mark the exact spot of the massacre 
of the Theban Legion. 

On the way to Evionnaz, 3* m. 
off, the high road traverses the site of 
the great mud avalanche of 1835. A 
violent thunderstorm, in which the 
lightning is said to have struck the 
Dent du Midi several times, accom- 
panied by heavy rain, seems to have 
detached a considerable mass near 
the summit of the ridge. This de- 
scended towards the E. , accompanied 
by a mass of glacier. The rock, 
composed of a soft shaly limestone, 
probably saturated with water, seems 
to have broken up rapidly into a 
sort of coarse mud, in which huge 
blocks of harder stone were carried 
along. After passing through a pine 
forest, which yielded as if the trees 
were straw in a stubble field, the 
current, moving very slowly, ad- 
vanced through the cultivated district 
at the foot of the mountain, carrying 
trees and houses before it, and finally 
reached the high road, which it 
covered for about a furlong, interrupt- 
ing the communications for some time. 

Evionnaz is a poor village with a 
railway station, and perhaps stands 
on the site of the Roman Epaumwi ; 
but the great bergfall of 563 occurred, 
according to the best authorities, not 
here, but at Les Avouettes, near Port 
Vallais (§ 17. Rte. K). (For the 
Col du {orat to Salanfe see § 17. 
Rte. I.) 

Among the causes which have con- 
tributed to give the population of the 
Canton of the Vallais an appearance 
of marked inferiority to that of the 
Canton of Vaud, it is fair to reckon 
the poverty of the soil, and the ex- 
posure of the main valley, and its 
tributaries, to visitations of the ele- 
ments that in a brief space destroy 
the fruits of human industry. One of 
these was the flood of September 
1852, which laid under water all the 
low ground between Martigny and 
and St. Maurice, covering the fields 
with sand and gravel. Between the 



554 PENNINE ALPS. § 21. SIMPLON DISTRICT 



Evionnaz station and that of Ver- 1 
nayaz is the waterfall of the Salanfe 
torrent, called Pissevache, about 200 
ft. high. It is a fine fall, especially- 
after rain, and is very easy of ac- 
cess, as it is close to the high road 
and railway ; but those who attempt 
a near approach are liable to be wet by 
the fine spray, which forms a brilliant 
iris when seen on a fine morning. 
There is a path hewn in the rock, by 
which it is possible to pass behind the 
fall. i\ m. further is the Ver nayaz 
station (3 m. from Martigny). close 
to which are the Gorges of the Trient, 
a narrow cleft, of a great depth (now 
fitted up with wooden bridges, &c.) 3 
through which the Trient torrent 
issues. (For the road from Vernayaz 
to Salvan and Chamonix see § 16. 
Rte. H. 3.) A rocky eminence 
crowned by the ruined castle of La 
Batiaz, built by Peter of Savoy, 
but burnt by George Supersax in 
1 5 18 (the tower is still older), over- 
looks the town of 

Martigny, near the right angle 
formed by the Rhone flowing S.S.W. 
from Brieg. and N.N.W. hence to the \ 
Lake of Geneva. Standing at the con- 
fluence of the Dranse, descending from 
the Great St. Bernard (§ 18. Rte. A), 
the Val de Bagnes (§18. Rte. E), 
and the Col Ferret (J 16. Rte. K), 
and at the junction of the most fre- 
quented routes from Chamonix (§16. 
Rte. H), Martigny is naturally much 
resorted to by Alpine travellers. It 
possesses, however, few attractions of : 
its own ; its position is low (477 m. , 
1,565 ft.) and hot, and the tract of 
marshy ground N. of the town, at 
the junction of the Dranse with the 
Rhone, cannot contribute to make it 
healthy. 

[An excursion which may be re- 
commended to any one involuntarily j 
detained here is the ascent of the 
Pierre a Voir (2,476 m. . 8.124 ft.), a 
mountain in the range between the 
Rhone and Bagnes valleys. There is 1 
a mule path to within \ hr. of the 
summit, and a descent may be made 
on the other side to Chable, at the | 



entrance of the Val de Bagnes. 
' Keeping a little S. of E., the sum- 
mit of the hill visible from Martigny 
is reached in about 2 hrs. and then, 
following the same direction through 
woods over undulating ground, the 
mule track is carried along the divid- 
ing ridge between the Rhone valley 
and the Val de Bagnes, commanding 
splendid views on both sides.' The 
top is reached in 5 hrs. from Martigny. 
After the snow has disappeared in 
summer little or no water is found on 
this mountain. This summit is now 
most conveniently reached from the 
new hotel on the Col du Lens, to the 
W. (§18. Rte. A.) J 

The valley of the Rhone between 
-Martigny and Brieg is so devoid of 
picturesque interest that most tra- 
vellers are glad to hurry it over in the 
train. On either side of the valley 
mountains of uniform slope and hue, 
just high enough to conceal (save a 
fleeting glimpse) the great ranges of 
the Pennine and Bernese Alps, hem 
in the valley, whose bed is so nearly 
level that imperfectly drained swamps 
extend afar, and at some seasons 
make it unhealthy as well as un- 
sightly. The geologist, who sees in 
these appearances the record of the 
processes which have fashioned the 
mountains and the valley, will not find 
the way irksome. The uniformity of 
the slopes and the absence of salient 
points are here due to the passage of 
a vast glacier through a trench in the 
yielding Carboniferous strata, and 
this immense planing tool has left its 
mark permanently impressed on the 
face of the country. 

Near the second station beyond 
Martigny is the Etablissement des 
Bains of Saxon, the mineral waters 
containing iodine and bromine, and 
being deemed very efficacious in skin 
complaints. (For the Col du Lens to 
Sembrancher see § 18. Rte. A.) 
The next station is Riddes, whence 
the Col des Etablons leads over to 
Chable. in the Val de Bagnes (§ iS. 
Rte. E). Looking back there is a 
fine view of the Grand Muveran 



ROUTE A. GENEVA TO MILAN BY THE SIMPLON PASS 555 



(•§ 22), while to the N. is the Haul de 
Cry (2,951 m., 9,682 ft.), which has 
attained a sad celebrity from the fatal 
accident in February 1864, which 
cost the lives of a Russian traveller, 
and his widely-known guide, J. J. 
Bennen, of Laax. The peaks of the 
curious limestone range connecting 
the Dent de Morcles with the Dia- 
blerets come into view between Saxon 
and Sion. The junction of the gneiss 
and other crystalline rocks with the 
limestone is very conspicuous opposite 
Saxon. After leaving that place the 
railway crosses to the r. bank, and 
passes the station of Ardon, near the 
opening of the Liserne glen, through 
which lies the way to the Col de 
Cheville (§ 22). A little more than 
4 m. beyond, across the Morge tor- 
rent, the former limit between Sa- 
voyard and Episcopal Vallais is 

Sion (Germ. Si-Men), 512 m., 1,680 
ft., the ancient capital of the Vallais 
— we retain throughout this work 
the historical spelling of this name — 
whose importance is told by the 
massive style of many of the old 
families of the city, and by the ruins 
of several castles. The monotony of 
the valley of the Rhone is broken here 
by two rocky hillocks that rise abruptly 
in its midst, and are crowned by three 
castles, which greatly enhance the 
picturesque appearance of the city. 
These buildings contain many remains 
of antiquity, commencing with the 
Roman period, but they chiefly tell of 
the period when the Bishops of Sion 
reigned as secular Counts over the 
Vallais. In going to visit these 
buildings the traveller is first con- 
ducted to the Marjoria, once the 
residence of the ' major ' or chief 
magistrate of the city, and later the 
bishop's palace. Passing by a four- 
teenth-century All Saints' chapel, 
he thence ascends to the top of the 
N. hillock, crowned by the ruins of 
the castle of Tourbitlon, built about 
1294 by the reigning bishop, but 
burnt, like the Majoria, in the great 
fire of 1788, after having served as the 
bishop's residence for many centuries. 



It commands a very fine view up the 
Rhone valley, including the Bietsch- 
horn. On the S. hillock is the castle 
of Valeria, said to have been origin- 
ally the Roman Prsetorium, and for 
long centuries the residence of the 
canons. It contains the thirteenth 
church of St. Catherine, with a very 
perfect rood loft, some ancient fres- 
coes, and some fine carved stalls of 
the seventeenth century. The view 
hence extends down the valley of the 
Rhone, including in the background 
the Diablerets, Dent de Morcles, &c. 
The late fifteenth-century Cathedral 
Church, with a tenth-century tower, 
is in the town below. The history of 
Sion is most interesting, as it became 
a bishop's see in 590, while in 999 the 
bishops became Counts of the Vallais. 
The old state of things lasted till 1798. 

The flora of this part of the valley 
is remarkable for the presence of 
many species characteristic of the 
Mediterranean region, some of which, 
as the pomegranate, have probably 
been introduced by man, but others 
are of spontaneous growth. Among 
those more interesting to the botanist 
may be enumerated Eruca saliva, 
Buffonia tenuifolia, Ononis Columns, 
Ge?iista radiata, Cytisus nigricans, 
T?'igonella monspeliaca, Telephium 
Imperati, Centaurea Crupina, Eph- 
edra distachya (on the rocks below 
the castle), Iris hitescens, Tulipa 
oculus solis, Liparis Lceselii, Tragus 
race?nosus, and Sclerochloa dura. 

JjFor the way to the Val d'Herens, 
Evolena, andArollasee § 19. Rtes. A 
and B, and for that to the Val 
d'Heremence see § 18. Rte. L. 
The Sanetsch Pass is described in 
§ 22 and the Rawil Pass in § 23.3 

The way between Sion and Sierre 
is less monotonous than the lower 
part of the valley. On the sunny 
slopes of the N. side much wine of 
local repute is produced. The flat 
part of the river bed is in great part 
covered with sand and gravel by the 
frequent inundations of the Rhone, 
Sierre (German Siders) seems a more 
thriving place than is usual in the 



556 



PENNINE ALPS. § 21. SIMPLON DISTRICT 



Vallais. Here is the division between 
the Swiss-German of the Upper Vall- 
ais and the Swiss-French of the 
lower part of the Canton. 

[2 hrs. above Sierre, on the N. 
side of the valley, is the new and 
excellent Hotel du Parc-Montana, 
accessible by carriage road, and a 
good headquarters for exploring the 
neighbouring ranges. For the way 
from Sierre up the Val d'Anniviers 
to Zinal see § 19. Rte. I.] 

The high road crosses to the 1. 
bank of the Rhone (the railway 
remaining on the r. bank), and for 
2 m. passes amidst hills formed of 
gravel and transported blocks, which 
occupy a great part of the bed of the 
valley. These are now believed to 
have originated mainly in a great 
bergfall from the mountain on the 
N. side of the valley, formed of 
Jurassic limestone, which occurred 
towards the end of the ' glacial 
period,' when the great glacier of the 
Rhone was retiring towards the upper 
part of the valley. After passing 
Pfin (? ad fines) , where the remains 
of an extensive forest mark a spot 
where the Vallaisans valiantly resisted 
the French invasion in 1798, the high 
road traverses the torrent from the 
Illgraben (§ 19. Rte. I), which has 
poured into the valley an enormous 
mass of disintegrated materials, the 
former contents of the vast hollow, 
whose dimensions are constantly in- 
creasing. Soon after the Leuk-Susten 
station is attained, the railway cross- 
ing to the 1. bank just under the 
picturesque little town of Leuk 
(French Loueche), at the mouth of the 
gorge of the Dala. (For the ways 
hence over the Gemmi and to the 
Lotschenthal see § 23. ) 

About 3 m. further on is Turt- 
mann (French Tourtemagne), at the 
mouth of the Turtmannthal, described 
in § 19. Rte. M. The torrent issuing 
from this valley makes a fine water- 
fall, which is but 10 min. off and 
deserves a visit. The next station is 
Gampel) at the junction of the Lonza, 
the considerable stream flowing from 



the Lotschenthal (described in §§23 
and 24). The village of Gampel is 
on the other side of the Rhone. A 
little farther on is Paron, on the r. 
side of the valley, where the opening 
of the Bietsch glen affords a glimpse 
of the fine peak of the Bietschhorn. 
After traversing a swampy tract the 
line reaches the station of 

Visp (French Vzege), at the opening 
of the Visp valleys. (For the railway 
to Zermatt see § 20. Rte. A, and for the 
way to Saas § 20. Rte. N. ) In hot 
weather it is best to avoid sleeping 
here, as the place is subject to malaria. 
The fine snow pyramid to the S. is 
not Monte Rosa (as is sometimes 
stated), but the Balfrin, the N. peak 
of the Saasgrat (§ 20. Rte. P). Visp 
was formerly the residence of many 
of the native aristocracy of the Upper 
Vallais, but, owing to the division of 
property and changes in political in- 
stitutions, most of the old families 
have dwindled into insignificance. 
In 1250 the lordship passed by mar- 
riage to the Counts of Biandrate (near 
Novara), and thus enabled them to 
plant a German-speaking colony at 
Macugnaga (§ 20. Rte. F), and an 
Italian-speaking one at Saas (§ 20. 
Rte. N). Two curious churches de- 
serve passing notice. One of these, 
originally reserved exclusively for 
persons of noble family, was partially 
destroyed by the earthquake of 1855, 
which injured all the buildings in the 
town. On the N. side of the Rhone, 
opposite Visp, is the opening of the 
Baltschieder glen, which affords access 
by a high glacier pass to the Lot- 
schenthal (§ 24), and is said to pro- 
duce many rare minerals. 

[From Visp a track leads across 
the mountains to the Hospice on the 
Simplon, there being a mule track all 
the way (7 hrs.) The path mounts 
in 2 hrs. to Visperterbinen, S.E. of 
and high above Visp, and then bears 
E. to the ridge S. of an eminence 
called Gebide?n (2,328 m., 7,638 ft.), 
commanding a magnificent view and 
accessible in 20 min. , passing a large 
tarn on the way. The path then 



ROUTE A. GENEVA TO MILAN BY THE SIMPLON PASS 557 



descends rapidly in a S. E. direction to 
the Bisti staff el huts in the Gamserthal 
or Nanzthal. A second ascent leads 
up to the Bisteuen Pass (2,432 m., 
7,979 ft.), whence a direct descent 
brings the traveller to the Simplon 
road, not far from the Old Hospice.] 

3§ m. beyond Visp is Gamsen, at 
the mouth of the glen of the same 
name, through which Saas or Simplon 
can be reached (Rte. B). Here are 
masses of gravel brought down by 
the torrent flowing from that glen. 
A mile beyond Gamsen is Glis (with 
the largest church in the Vallais, con- 
taining a curious altar-tomb of 15 19, 
meant for George Supersax), where 
the ascent to the Simplon Pass ori- 
ginally commenced ; but the universal 
practice is to make a slight detour by 

Brieg (French Bn'gue), 684 m.', 
2,244 ft- 5 the present terminus of 
the railway. It is a cheerful-looking 
town, with a conspicuous triple-tur- 
reted Chateau, belonging to the Stock - 
alper family, to whose zeal many of 
the numerous religious buildings in 
the town are due. There is a fine 
view from the terrace of the old 
Jesuits' College. The station is some 
distance from the town. (On the N. 
is seen the high-perched hotel of the 
Belalp, described in § 24. ) 

The pass of the Simplon is the 
lowest of the great passes across the 
main range of the Alps, between the 
Mont Genevre and the Lukmanier. 
The N. and S. direction prevailing 
amongst the ridges and valleys of the 
Monte Rosa group here ceases, and 
the main range resumes its character- 
istic direction from S.W. to N.E. 
The pass is approached on the N. 
side through the short and steep glen 
traversed by the insignificant torrent 
of the Saltine , but on the S. side the 
road descends into the narrow ravine 
of the Val di Vedro, running from W. 
to E., parallel to the adjoining valleys 
of Bognanco and Antrona. It is 
very uncertain whether the pass was 
used by the Romans ; at any rate its 
historical importance dates from the 
thirteenth century, and it was often 



used in the fifteenth century by the 
Swiss when trying to conquer the Val 
d'Ossola. The village of Simplon, 
on the S. slope, is one of the numer- 
ous thirteenth-century German-speak- 
ing settlements from the Upper Val- 
lais, and doubtless this is the historical 
reason why even now the Swiss fron- 
tier extends so far down the Italian 
slope of the Alps as Gondo. 

The construction of a road over 
the pass was determined on in 1800, 
and it was completed in 1805, though 
not open for traffic till 1807. It is 
stated that between Brieg and Sesto 
Calende there are no fewer than 611 
bridges, while the cost of the road 
from Glis to Domo was 400,000/. 
The breadth is nowhere less than 
23 ft., and the slope rarely exceeds 
1 in 15. Though it has been later 
surpassed, especially by some of the 
great Austrian roads, such as the 
Stelvio, the Simplon road remains a 
remarkable monument of skill and 
labour, owing to the great difficulties 
that were successfully encountered in 
making it. It happens, unfortunately, 
that the narrow gorge through which 
it was necessary to conduct the de- 
scent towards Italy is peculiarly ex- 
posed to the effects of storms and 
heavy rain. The road has thus often 
suffered serious damage, and, in truth, 
is scarcely safe in stormy weather. 
It is reckoned that the sums expended 
for maintenance and repairs have 
borne a large proportion to the ori- 
ginal cost. 

[Pedestrians may save fully 8 m. 
in the ascent by following the old 
mule track, which keeps above the r. 
bank of the Saltine, and leaves Berisal 
several miles to the 1. It is best to 
mount by a foot path from Brieg to 
the high road near the Second Refuge, 
whence the old mule track ascends the 
upper part of the Saltine glen. The 
writer (J. B.) found 1 ij firs.' steady 
walking, with a knapsack, sufficient 
for the distance from Brieg to Domo, 
including a halt of f hr. at the 
Hospice. J 

In ascending from Brieg there is a 



558 



PENNINE ALPS. § 2f. SIMPLON DISTRICT 



very fine view of the Bernese Alps on 
the N., but the Gross Aletsch gl., 
though so near, is almost hidden by 
slopes of the Riederhorn. After 
mounting some distance till it joins 
the road coming from Glis, the Sim- 
plon road makes a wide sweep to the 
1. , and then returns towards the gorge 
of the Saltine, but at a great height 
above the torrent. At the Second or 
Schallbei'g Refuge the first great ob- 
stacle to the progress of the road is 
encountered. A torrent called the 
Ganter descends from the E. to join 
the Saltine, and has cut for itself a 
deep and narrow glen, crossing the 
line that must be taken to reach the 
pass. The road, therefore, leaving 
the Saltine glen, passes high above 
the Ganter gorge, which is crossed, 
after a long detour (pedestrians can 
take a short cut to Berisal), and then 
two long zigzags lead up to the Third 
Refuge, or Berisal (1,526 m., 5,007 
ft.), now a favourite place of sojourn 
in summer. 

[Hence the conspicuous Bortelhorn 
(3,204 m., 10,512 ft.) can be climbed 
in 5 hrs. , as may the Wasenhom 
(3,255 m., 10,680 ft.), more to the 
S.W. For the passes over to Binn, 
or the Veglia Alp, see § 29.3 

It is now necessary to return at a 
higher level, on the S. side of the I 
Ganter ravine, towards the gorge 
of the Saltine, so that the Fourth I 
Refuge, scarcely 1 m. in a straight 
line from the Second, is distant at 
least 6 m. by road. The first long 
tunnel or ' Gallery ' is that of Schall- 
bett (100 ft.), beyond which is the 
Fifth Refuge, or Schallbett. The part 
of the road between this and the ! 
Sixth Refuge is much exposed to ; 
avalanches in winter and spring, and 
several long ' Galleries ' are traversed i 
to avoid the danger from the Kalt- | 
wasser gl. , above on the E., and to j 
get round the head of the Schallbett 
gorge, below it. Monte Leone and 
the Hubschhorn rise grandly to the 
E. and S.E., and on approaching the 
summit of the pass the traveller once 
again beholds the range of the Ber- 



nese Alps as far as the Finsteraar- 
horn, with the lofty chain of the 
Nesthorn, whose peaks are con- 
founded with the more distant moun- 
tains behind. Soon after passing the 
Sixth Refuge the summit of the pass 
(2,009 m -5 6,592 ft.) is reached, and 
a short descent leads thence down to 
the Hospice (2,001 m., 6,565 ft.), 
founded by Napoleon in 1802, but 
completed, and now occupied, by 
x\ustin Canons Regular, belonging to 
the same house as those of the Great 
St. Bernard. The management is 
similar to that of the parent house, 
though the accommodation is not so 
good. The cold here is less severe, 
and the facility of access on both 
sides by a high road makes the ser- 
vices of the devoted religious less in- 
dispensable here than at their original 
station. But they give annually 
gratuitous food and lodging to many 
thousands of poor travellers, so that 
those who halt here on their pleasure 
journey should not omit to put a 
suitable donation into the box pro- 
vided for that purpose. 

\J\fonte Leone (3,561 m., 11,683 & ) 
can be ascended hence in 4-5 hrs. by 
a very easy route over the Hohmatten 
and Alpien gls. , and commands a most 
superb panorama ; from the Alpien gl. 
it is easy to descend to Al Gaby, or to 
the Veglia Alp, for which as well as 
the passes leading thither see § 29. 
Shorter climbs from the Hospice are 
the Wasenhom, 3,255 m., 10,680 ft. 
(4 hrs. ), and the Hiibschhom, 3,196 
m., 10,486 ft. (3 hrs.) For the 
Bistenen Pass to Visp see above 
under Visp, and for the passes to Saas 
Rte. B. below. J 

For at least 3 m. from the summit 
of the pass the road traverses an un- 
dulating plateau, sloping gently to the 
S.W. On the r. hand stands the Old 
Hospice, the tower of which was built 
in 1653 by the Stockalper family ; it 
is on the site of the original Hospice, 
which from at least 1235 to 1470 was 
managed by the Knights Hospitaller. 
The Seventh Refuge is now in ruins, 
not being required, and the road 



ROUTE A. GENEVA TO MILAN BY THE SIMPLON PASS 559 



descends gently in a S.E. direction, 
with fine views of the Fletschhorn 
range, to the village of Simplon 
(Germ. Simpeln ; Italian Sempione), 
1,479 m -> 4j85 2 which, as pointed 
out above, is one of the numerous 
thirteenth-century German-speaking 
settlements from the Upper Vallais. 

\J\ionte Leone may be climbed in 
6 hrs. from here, by gaining through 
the Hohmatten glen the gl. of the 
same name, on which the route from 
the Hospice is joined. The Ross- 
bodenhom (4,001 m., 13,128 ft.) may 
be attained in 8 or 9 hrs. by the N. E. 
or S.E. aretes, or by the N. arete 
from the Rossboden Pass, for which, 
as well as for the other passes to Saas, 
see Rte. B. (For those to the Veglia 
Alp see § 29.) The Rossboden gl. 
descends in a fine icefall from the 
peak of that name, and may be 
visited in 3-4 hrs. from the village 
by way of the Rossboden or Seng 
glen, which joins the main valley a 
little above the village. The more 
considerable Laqnin gl. sends its tor- 
rent down to the valley at Al Gaby.] 

The stream which descends from 
the pass on the S. side is called 
Krummbach, but lower down it re- 
ceives the Italian name of Doveria or 
Diveria. The pedestrian may make 
a short cut in descending from Sim- 
plon to Al Gaby or G stein, thus avoid- 
ing the long zigzag which runs a 
little way up the Laqui)i glen. (For 
the way hence to Domo by the Val 
Bognanco see Rte. D. ) The road is 
carried through a ' Gallery,' and 
passes the ruins of a large barracks 
(hence a stony path leads up to the 
Alpien hamlet and Fressinone huts, 
past which Monte Leone can be 
reached by the Alpien gl. , or a pass 
crossed to the Veglia Alp : see § 29) 
some way after entering the famous 
Gorge of Gondo, one of the most re- 
markable scenes traversed by a car- 
riage road in the Alps. The valley- 
is here a mere cleft, between precipi- 
tous gneiss rocks of great height 
(varying from 2,300 to nearly 3,000 
ft.), and the utmost skill of the 



engineer has been taxed to find a 
passage for the road alongside of the 
stream, which, after every storm, be- 
comes a furious torrent. Nor is this 
the only risk to be encountered. The 
same cause sometimes detaches blocks 
of stone from the face or the summit 
of these precipices, and passing carri- 
ages have ere now been crushed by 
their fall. Some plants of the Alpine 
region, and among them Saussurea 
discolor, may be seen on the rocks. 
After crossing the Doveria by the 
Ponte Alto, and soon after returning 
to the 1. bank, the road reaches the 
entrance of the great ' Gallery'' of 
Gondo. This is a tunnel, 722 ft. in 
length, cut through a buttress of ex- 
tremely hard rock, which all but 
closes the gorge. In it is the in- 
scription, ' Aere Italo. Nap. Imp. 
1805.' Nothing can be more striking 
than the scene on issuing from the E. 
end of the tunnel. The Fressinone or 
Alpien torrent, leaping from a lateral 
cleft in the wall of the valley, falls in 
a roaring waterfall close to the mouth 
of the tunnel, and the road is carried 
across a bridge very near the fall. 
The next portion of the road has fre- 
quently suffered from the destructive 
effects of storms, which, especially in 
1834 and 1839, carried away bridges 
and parts of the roadway. 

Gondo (Germ. Ruden or Gtcnz), 858 
m., 2,815 ft-' i s ma -de up of a pictu- 
resque Stockalper tower, eight stories 
high, originally built as a refuge for 
travellers, and of the Swiss Custom 
house, as this is the last Swiss village. 
(Hence the Zwischbergen Pass leads 
to Saas, Rte. C.) Half a mile be- 
yond the village a column marks the 
frontier. This happens to correspond 
to a considerable change in the 
character of the vegetation, which 
assumes a decided southern character, 
when, 3 m. farther, the traveller 
reaches Iselle, the Italian Custom- 
house station. The storms above 
alluded to produced their utmost 
effect in the portion of the valley be- 
low Iselle, called Val di Vedro, and 
for a space of several miles not only 



560 PENNINE ALPS. § 21. SIMPLON DISTRICT 



did the bridges disappear, but the road 
itself was completely swept away by the 
flood. Some way beyond the Caii'asca 
(or Cherasca) torrent joins the Doveria, 
and 5 m. from Iselle, but a little above 
the high road, is the village of Varzo. 
(For the way hence to the Veglia 
Alp, and thence over to Binii or 
Devero, see § 29. ) The chestnut has 
become the prevailing tree before the 
road traverses the last •'Gallery,' 
where the prickly pears, spreading 
over the rocks, further prove the 
change of climate. The Doveria is 
crossed for the last time, 8 J m. below 
Iselle, by the fine bridge of Crevola. 
Here the traveller issues from the 
narrow gorge of the Val di Vedro 
into the broad, stately Val d'Ossola, 
bright with numerous villages and 
white campaniliy and rich with the 
peculiar vegetation of N. Italy, where 
mulberry trees and trellised vines 
dispute the occupation of the soil 
with maize and hemp, and the varied 
crops that are crowded together in 
every spare spot of ground. The 
sense of an utter change of scene is 
completed to the ear by the keen 
shrillness of the unseen cicale that fills 
the entire air. The Val d'Ossola is 
traversed by the Tosa or Toce ) a. very 
considerable Alpine stream, which 
soon ends its short course from the 
Val Formazza and the Val Antigorio 
(§ 29), in the Lago Maggiore. The 
Bogna, flowing from the Val Bag- 
nanco (Rte. D), has poured a vast 
mass of debris into the broad, level 
bed of the Val d'Ossola a short dis- 
tance above Domo. 

Domo d'Ossola (271 m. , 889 ft.) is 
a small, very Italian-looking town, 
especially interesting to those who see 
Italy for the first time. Near the 
market place is the Palazzo Silva, 
with a collection of antiquities, &c. , 
while the Galletti Museum has many 
books and a cabinet of medals. The 
natural history collections are now in 
the Palazzo di San Francesco. For 
the excursions in the neighbourhood 
see Bazetta and Brusonrs 1 Guide de 
l'Ossola' (1889). 



The most agreeable way of ap- 
proaching the Lago Maggiore is by 
the carriage road through the Val 
Vigezzo and the Val Cannobina(§ 32) ; 
but most travellers take the easier 
route to Baveno or Pallanza, unless 
they are bound for Milan direct by 
the railway past Orta. As far as the 
station of Gravellona Toce the routes 
to Milan and Baveno are the same. 
The railway from Domo descends 
: the flat valley of the Tosa. At Villa 
• d'Ossola the Ovesca from Val An- 
: trona (Rte. E) flows into the Tosa, 
which, 2\ m. beyond, near Piedi- 
\ ?niilera, receives the Anza from the 
Val Anzasca (§ 20. Rte. F). Both 
railway and road cross to the 1. bank 
' of the Tosa at the bridge of Masoue, 
I from near which the highest peaks of 
Monte Rosa are seen in clear weather, 
above the opening of the Val Anzasca. 
A little way further is Vogogna, and 
beyond Cuzzago, where the direct 
road to Pallanza turns off. But it is 
now more usual to continue in the 
railway past Ornavasso (Germ. 
Urnasch), originally a German-speak- 
ing colony from Naters, opposite Brieg 
(it was from the extensive quarries of 
Ornavasso that most of the white 
I marble used in constructing the 
Duomo of Milan was obtained), to the 
station of Gravellona Toce, whence 
it is about 6 m. to Pallanza (§ 32), 
past the Lake of Mergozzo. Here 
part the two routes to Milan ; they 
reunite at Rho. 

(a) By Orta (Rlwy.)— The railway 
now leaves the valley of the Tosa, and 
runs along the 1. bank of the Strona 
torrent (for the valley of that name 
see § 20. Rte. M), past its junction 
with that from the lake, to Omegna, 
at the N. end of the Lake of Orta. 
(For the routes hence to Varallo see 
§ 20. Rtes. L and M.) Hence the 
line runs high above the E. shore of 
the lake, with beautiful views over it, 
to the station of Orta, some way 
above the town of that name, which 
! is not visible from it. The Lake of 
; Orta is, perhaps, the most attractive 
I of the smaller lakes on the S. side of 



ROUTE A. GENEVA TO MILAN BY THE SIMPLON PASS 561 



the Alps. It lies in a depression 
about 9 m. long, parallel to the S. 
portion of the Lago Maggiore, but 
about 300 ft. higher than that lake. 
The scenery of the shores combines 
richness with boldness of form, but 
does not offer the variety that charac- 
terises the shores of the greater lakes. 
The heights that surround it com- 
mand views of extreme beauty, the 
panorama from the Mottarone (see 
below) being celebrated as one of the 
finest in the Alps. The little town 
of Orta is delightfully situated on the 
shore of a promontory stretching out 
into the lake, and is a tempting place 
for a halt of some days. Boating is 
one of the chief amusements here. 
The Monte Sacro, forming a rocky 
promontory projecting into the lake, 
is a sanctuary dedicated to St. Francis 
of Assisi, with twenty-one chapels 
arranged in imitation of the more 
famous Sacro Monte of Varallo ( § 20. 
Rte. E). Though less remarkable 
as works of art these well deserve a 
visit, while the views over the lake 
and the surrounding mountains are of 
great beauty. The /sola San Giulio 
should not be omitted by a stranger. 
Besides the extreme beauty of the 
position, the old church, partly 
modernised, contains many objects of 
interest. Among the frescoes is one 
by Gaudenzio Ferrari, and others by 
Tibaldi, an antique carved pulpit, &c. 
Some bones of a whale are exhibited 
as the remains of a monstrous serpent, 
destroyed by San Giulio, who retreated 
hither in the fourth century. 

[For the lovely excursion from 
Orta to Varallo by the Colle della 
Colma, see § 20. Rte. L, wherein the 
route to Ponte Grande through the 
Val Mastallone is described, that by 
the Val Strona being given in Rte. M. 
For the drive to Borgo Sesia by 
Valduggia, see Rte. K. 

The most interesting excursion 
from Orta, and one enabling a traveller 
to combine the finest parts of both 
routes to Milan, with the addition of 
a first-rate view, is the ascent of the 
Monte Mottarone, the culminating 
I. 



point of the range dividing the Lake 
of Orta from the Lago Maggiore. It 
can be easily reached from Orta, 
Omegna, Stresa, or Baveno, and no 
one stopping at any of those places 
should omit the ascent. It takes 3J 
hrs. (donkeys take 4 hrs. ) from Orta 
by way of A rmeno and CAeggino, and 
about 3 J hrs. from Baveno by a mule 
path. A cogwheel railway from 
Stresa is projected. There is an 
excellent Hotel (1,426 m., 4,679 
ft.) close to the summit, which is 
1,491 m. (4,892 ft.) The mountain 
has been called the Italian Rigi, a 
title which better belongs to the 
Monte Generoso (§ 33). The pano- 
rama is indeed very beautiful, and not 
unworthy to rank near that of its 
Swiss rival ; but the mountain is in 
itself far less interesting, the relief of 
the surface is less varied, the brilliant 
colouring of the Alpine pastures is 
not seen here, and a great part of the 
surface is occupied by meagre, stunted 
heather, wherein grey and brown 
tints predominate. It is advisable 
to start very early, and so increase the 
chance of a clear view ; but if possible 
a night should be spent at the Hotel, 
so as to enjoy the wonderful sunset 
effects from the summit. A pano- 
rama, by Bossoli, was issued with the 
' Bollettino ' of the Italian Alpine 
Club for 1874, and in the same 
periodical for 1884 will be found a 
complete monograph on the mountain. 

In one respect the panorama from 
the summit is superior to that from 
the Rigi, as the peaks of Monte Rosa 
[all of which are seen hence) and of 
the Saasgrat are here nearer at hand, 
and better seen than the Bernese 
Oberland range is from the Swiss 
mountain. These mighty summits 
are followed by the Fletschhorn, the 
Monte Leone, and its neighbours of 
the Lepontine Alps, some of the chief 
summits of the Bernese Oberland, the 
Rheinwaldhorn, the Monte della Dis- 
grazia, and the glacier-clad mass of 
the Adamello (between the Val Ren- 
dena and the Val Camonica, § 40). 
The vast plain of Lombardy (Milan 
o o 



562 PENNINE ALPS. § 21. SIMPLON DISTRICT 



and its Duomo are visible) and Pied- 
mont is in clear weather bounded by 
the Appennines, and towards the W. 
by the Cottian Alps, crowned by the 
Monte Viso. The characteristic 
beauty of the view depends, however, 
on the two lakes, which between them 
all but surround the mountain, and 
one advantage of making the ascent 
from Orta is the additional charm of 
this first view of the Lago Maggiore, 
which remains in sight during the 
greater part of the descent to Baveno 
or Stresa. The lakes of Varese, 
Comabbio, Biandronno (or Bian- 
drone), Monate, and Mergozzo, 
though not prominent, are interesting 
features in the panorama. 

The descent to Baveno is shorter 
and steeper than that to Stresa, but 
either may be reached in 2 hrs. In fine 
weather a person well used to moun- 
tain-walking will not absolutely re- 
quire a guide, as arrows on the houses 
in the villages indicate the right direc- 
tion. But when the clouds lie low it 
is extremely difficult for a stranger to 
find his way over the undulating 
ridges of the mountain. J 

The railway passes by Gozzano and 
Borgomanero before reaching Novara, 
on the direct line from Turin to Milan, 
and at the junction of the lines from 
Varallo, and from Bellinzona along 
the E. shore of the Lago Maggiore. 

(b) By Arona (Road and Rlwy. )— At 
Gravellona Toce the road to the Lago 
Maggiore turns E. and passes S. of the 
Mont* Orfano, an isolated hill of pink 
granite, while both this and a white- 
grained variety occur on the slopes 
of the Mottarone, above the road. At 
Feriolo the shores of the lake are 
reached, and the bay of Pallanza, one 
of the most beautiful portions of the 
Lago Maggiore, comes fully into 
view. A little farther on the traveller 
attains (4J m. from Gravellona Toce) 
one of the most frequented haunts of 
tourists, Baveno. 

The view of the lake from Baveno 
is fine, though not superior to that 
from other points on its shores. At 
Baveno is the splendid Villa Clara, 



formerly in the possession of Mr. 
Henfrey, who placed it at the dis- 
position of Queen Victoria in 1879, 
and of the late German Crown Prince 
I in 1887. But the main source of 
I attraction at Baveno is the neigh- 
| bourhood of the Borromean Islands, 
I which have obtained a reputation even 
greater than their deserts. They may, 
j however, be equally well visited from 
J Stresa, or from Pallanza (§ 32). The 
islands are four in number. Of these 
! the smallest — the /sola di San Gio- 
vanni — is unimportant, and the /sola 
dei Pescatori, though picturesque 
from a distance, does not gain by 
a nearer acquaintance. The /sola 
Madre, half-way between Baveno and 
Pallanza, is a garden, partly planted 
with orange and lemon trees on formal 
terraces, and in part laid out in the 
English style. It is interesting from 
the number of exotic plants that here 
flourish in the open air. The agave 
attains a great size, while many 
Australian and Indian trees seem to 
grow freely in sheltered spots. 

The chief resort of strangers is the 
/sola Bella. The palace of the 
Borromeo family, commenced on a 
scale of regal grandeur, remains in- 
complete. The state rooms are ex- 
hibited to strangers ; but there is not 
much worthy of notice, and the pic- 
tures are, almost without exception, 
of the later Lombard school. The 
collection includes fifty landscapes by 
Tempesta, who here found hospitality 
and a secure retreat when pursued by 
the ministers of the law for the murder 
of his wife. The greater part of the 
island, originally ba2?e rock, was about 
two centuries ago converted into a 
garden formed of ten terraces, rising 
one above the other in successive 
stages to the height of about 130 ft. 
above the lake. At an enormous ex- 
pense of labour and money soil was 
carried from the shores of the lake, 
and arrangements contrived, not only 
for protecting many of the plants in 
winter, but for applying heat through 
subterranean passages. The result 
has been so far successful that many 



ROUTE A. GENEVA TO MILAN BY THE SIMPLON PASS 563 



plants and trees, not seen elsewhere 
so far north, here grow luxuriantly, 
and the effect of the rich vegetation, 
combined with the beautiful views of 
the lake and the surrounding moun- 
tains, must satisfy all but the most 
fastidious. Critics who complain of 
the want of simplicity and naturalness 
may fairly be answered that the island 
looks to be what it is — a creation of 
art — and that on no other terms would 
it be possible, in such a position, to 
obtain the object in view. There is a 
good inn on the island, close to the 
palace. About 3 m. S. of Baveno is 
Stresa, and from either of these 
villages the much-recommended ascent 
of the Monte Mottarone (see a. above) 
may be made. The next village is 
Belgirate. The shore of the lake is 
studded thickly with villas. Near 
the village of Lesa was that of the 
poet Manzoni. Farther on is Meina, 
and 11 m. from Stresa the traveller 
reaches 

Arona, the present terminus of 
the railway on this shore of the 
lake, and the chief port for the lake 
steamers. On approaching this town 
the road passes below the colossal 
statue of San Carlo Borromeo, stand- 
ing on a flat-topped hill, which forms 
a natural terrace parallel to the shore 
of the lake. It is \ hr. 's walk from the 
town. The pedestal is about 40 ft, 
high, and the statue itself 77 ft., in 
all 117 ft., but the estimates of its 
height vary considerably. It dates 
from the end of the seventeenth cen- 
tury, and was erected in honour of 
the saintly archbishop of Milan, who 
was born near Arona. Some zealous 
sightseers climb up into the head of the 
statue by a fixed ladder and steps, 
and after sitting down in the inside of 
the nose scramble down again. 

The railway from Arona to Milan 
bends round the S. end of the Lago 
Maggiore to Sesto Calende, where it 
joins the line coming from Bellinzona 
by Luino and the E. shore of the 
lake. There is a line from Sesto to 
Novara (convenient for travellers 
bound to Turin, &c), but the direct 



route to Milan is that past Gallarate 
and Rho . 

The Lago Maggiore is described in 
detail in § 32. 



Route B. 

SIMFLON TO SAAS BY THE 
FLETSCHHORN GROUP. 

The lofty chain rising between the 
valley of Saas and the Simplon road 
is, so far as regards the snowy por- 
tion N. of the Weissmies (the ridge 
S. of that peak is described in the 
following Rtes. ), very steep indeed 
on the E. side, and is most easily 
accessible from the W. or Saas side. 
Hence the two main passes across it 
are but rarely traversed, being visited 
only from the W. side by parties 
bent on the ascent of one or other of 
the twin peaks of the Fletschhorn. 
Unless a traveller bound from Sim- 
plon to Saas, therefore, reaches the 
Weissmies Sattel, and thence gains 
the Zwischbergen Pass (Rte. C), he 
must cross the Rossboden Pass, at the 
N. end of the chain, if he wishes to 
avoid the easy route by the Sirwolten 
and Simeli Passes, which necessitates 
a descent into the Gamserthal, and a 
reascent from it. In this work we 
may, therefore, describe the two higher 
passes very briefly, mainly in order 
to include a notice of the great peaks 
which overhang them. The Hotel 
Weissmies, above the Trift Alp (3 
hrs. from Saas), makes a convenient 
starting point for the ascents men- 
tioned in this and the following Rte. 

1. By the Laquinjoch. — The range 
connecting the Weissmies and the 
Laquinhorn presents a formidable 
appearance, and the pass between 
them is only less difficult and dan- 
gerous than the Fletschjoch. The 
Laquin glen opens into the Doveria 
valley at Al Gaby, so that a party 
starting from Simplon should follow 
002 



564 PENNINE ALPS. § 21. SIMPLON DISTRICT 



the high road to the end of the very | 
long zigzag above Al Gaby, and 
leave it at the turn in order to mount 
through the Laquin glen to the 
moraine between the Hohlentrift and 
Fletsckkom glens. Then a very 
steep ascent over the rather rotten 
rocks on the E. face of the Laquin- 
horn leads to the pass, 3,497 m., 
11,474 ft. 

[Hence either of the peaks between 
which it lies may be ascended, but 
the aretes are in either case very long, 
and hard. J 

The descent by the Hohlaub gl., 
the rock ridge dividing it from the 
Trift gl., and the Trift Alp inn 
offers no difficulties. It is said that 
10J hrs. suffice for this pass, which 
was first crossed by travellers in 1 864, 
by Messrs. Robertson and Heathcote. 

2. By the Fletschjcch. — This very 
difficult and dangerous pass was 
crossed for the first and, we believe, j 
the only time in 1863, by Messrs. j 
F. W. JacombandG. Chater. Having 
slept at the Ober Stafel hut, in the 
Laquin glen, they crossed the torrent 
to its 1. bank, ascended the steep 
slopes at the head of the valley, and, 
after crossing a ridge and a huge 
moraine, reached the 1. bank of the j 
Fletschhorn gl. in 3 hrs. from the cha- 
lets. Here the difficulties of the pass 
commenced. The upper part of the 
gl. is a seemingly impracticable ice- 
fall, and is besides swept by falling 
blocks from the precipices above its 
r. bank. After mounting for I hr. 
along the gl., the party took to the 
cliffs on its 1. bank. The remainder ; 
of the way was alternately up very 
steep rocks and couloirs of ice, not 
seldom swept by stones, and this part I 
of the ascent required 7 hrs. of peril- 
ous climbing. The pass lies between 
the two summits of the Fletschhorn, 
and is 3,673 m. (12,051 ft. ) in height. 

[From it either of these sum- 
mits may be easily climbed. The . 
laquinhorn (4,005 m., 13,140 ft.), 
on the S., is accessible by an 
easy rock ridge in \\ hr. But 
it is even more directly reached j 



from Saas by the route taken on 
occasion of the first ascent, effected in 
1856 by Mr. Ames with three Eng- 
lish friends and Herr Imseng, the 
cure of Saas. This lies past the 
Trift Alp inn, and then up the easy 
rocks on the S. side of the great W. 
arete, a gap in which is then gained, 
and the ridge followed to the summit, 
attained in 6 hrs. from Saas. The 
Rossbodenhorn (4,001 m., 13,128 
ft.) is accessible from the Fletsch- 
joch by very easy snow slopes 
in less than 1 hr. It can also 
be climbed from Simplon by its 
N.E. arete, or by its N. arete 
from the Rossboden pass. It was by 
the N.E. arete that the first ascent 
was made in 1854 by Herr Amherdt. 
It is not a very long day to climb 
both peaks together, even if the start 
be made from Saas and not from the 
Trift Alp inn. If they are combined 
the Rossbodenhorn should be taken 
first, while the snow is hard, and the 
Laquinhorn traversed on the return 
journey. Coming up from Saas it is 
not necessary to go to the Fletschjoch 
itself, as easy snow slopes lead up in 
the direction of the former peak from 
the top of the icefall. Both peaks 
command fine views, and from a dis- 
tance show as a single summit. On 
the Swiss map the Rossbodenhorn is 
made to monopolise the name Fletsch- 
horn, which properly applies to both 
peaks. J 

The icefall of the Gr. Trift gl. 
is best turned by the easy rocks on its 
1. bank, and below the gl. stones 
and grass lead down past the Trift 
Alp inn to Saas. 3J hrs. suffice for 
the descent from the pass, and 5- 
hrs. for the ascent to it on the 
Saas side. 

3. By the Eossboden Pass. — This 
is the most direct and the easiest of the 
glacier passes between Simplon and 
Saas. It was crossed as long ago as 
1833 by three young Swiss botanists, 
who described it under the name of the 
' Passage du Rothhorn ' ( = Rau thorn) 
in a pamphlet published at Geneva in 
1835. But it was Mr. Brooksbanks : 



ROUTE B. SIMPLON TO SAAS 



565 



account of his passage, in 1874, in the 
seventh volume of the ' Alpine 
Journal,' that brought it to the notice 
of English climbers. 

The Rossboden or Seng glen opens 
close to the village of Simplon, and the 
way lies up this, past the Rossboden 
huts, to the Griesseren gl., the more 
northerly of the two that close the 
head of the glen. A steep rock wall 
must now be climbed to the pass. It 
is best to ascend by a buttress just S. 
of a couloir well marked on the Swiss 
map. The pass is about 3,300 m. 
(10,827 ft-)? rather S. of the Raut- 
horn, and is gained in 5 hrs. or 
less from Simplon. It should be 
noted that the summit of the pass is 
the rounded snow ridge (above the 
upper edge of the rock wall) which 
marks the distinction between the 
Mattwald and the Gamser gls. 
Hence a wonderful view of the 
Bernese Oberland peaks is gained. 
( In 3 hrs. more it is possible to reach 
the Rossbodenhorn by the N. arete. ) 
The direct descent by the Mattwald 
gl. , and glen leads to a point in the 
Saas valley little above the inn at the 
Hutegg. But by bearing S.W. from 
the Mattwald glen, and crossing one 
of several gaps, it is easy to gain the 
Hofersalpi whence a path leads by 
the Bodmen huts direct to Saas 
Grund, gained in 4 hrs. or less from 
the pass, while an almost level path 
leads to the Hotel Weissmies above 
the Trift Alp. 

4. By the Sirwolten and Simeli 
Passes.— This route entails a descent 
into the Gamserthal, and a reascent 
on the other side. But it is perfectly 
easy, and fairly direct for a traveller 
bound from the Hospice on the 
Simplon to Saas. A notice of this 
double passage is given in the first 
volume of the * Alpine Journal ' by 
Mr. A. W. Moore, who, however, 
crossed (in 1863) the Gamserjoch, in- 
stead of the easier Simeli Pass, more 
to the N.W. 

From the Hospice, or (longer) from 
the village of Simplon, the high road 
is followed as far as the huts of the 



Niederalp. A faint track leads thence 
in a S.W. direction, the ascent 
becoming steeper and steeper till a 
precipitous gully brings the traveller 
to a desolate little plain. The Sir- 
wolten lake is left on the 1. hand, and 
the pass of the same name (2,664 
m. , 8,744 ft.) soon reached in 3 hrs. 
from the Hospice. A short ascent up 
the ridge to the S. leads to a point 
from which a view of the Gamser 
gl. , at the head of that glen, is 
gained. Three Cols are now seen : 
the Simeli Pass is that most to the 
r., S.E. of the Mattwaldhorn ; the 
next, the Gamserjoch , is separated 
from it by a rocky peak ; while the 
third is still more to the E. , above 
the icefall of the Gamsen gl. 
From the Simeli Pass it is best to 
descend by stones in \ hr. to the 
level of the Gamserthal. 

This valley opens into the Rhone 
valley between Visp and Brieg. 
Farther N. than the Sirwolten 
Pass is the Bistenen Pass, lead- 
ing from the Hospice by Visperter- 
binen to Visp (see Rte. A). A 
second ascent from the valley over 
stones and snow leads in I hr. more 
to the Simeli Pass (3,028 m., 

9,935 ft.). 

[In 1840 Herr Gottlieb Studer 
climbed in an hour from the pass up 
the Mattwaldhor7i (3,253 m., 10,673 
ft.) to the N.W., and published the 
panorama thence with the first volume 
of the ' Jahrbuch ' of the Swiss 
Alpine Club. The view is most 
extensive, and travellers passing this 
way should not omit to make the 
slight detour required.] 

The descent is made into the Matt- 
wald glen, whence the route of the 
Rossboden Pass (3. above) is followed 
to Saas (2J-3 hrs. from the pass). 



566 PENNINE ALPS, § 21 



SIMPLON DISTRICT 



Route C. 

SAAS TO SIMPLON OR DOMODOSSOLA 
EY THE ZWISCHBERGEN PASS. 

On the S. side of the Weissmies, 
and between that mountain and the 
rugged range of the Portjengrat, there 
is a depression in the main chain, 
called the Zwischbergen Pass. It has 
perhaps been known for several cen- 
turies, and offers no difficulties, though 
it is rather long. Properly it leads 
from the valley of Saas direct to 
Gondo, on the Simplon road, but by 
crossing one or other of several passes 
it is easy to gain the village of 
Simplon by the Laquin glen, or 
Domodossola by way of the Val 
Bognanco. 

As mentioned in § 20. Rte. N. the 
Almagell stream joins the Saaser Yisp 
at the village of Almagell, which is 
reached from Saas Grund by the valley 
path (there is a short cut from Saas 
to the Almagell Alp), or from Saas 
Fee by a direct path mentioned in 
§ 20. Rte. N. Following the stream at 
first on the 1. bank, the Ahnagell 
huts (small inn), on the r. bank, are 
gained. The pass itself is clearly seen 
through the greater part of the ascent, 
which continues in a N.E. direction 
over grass, stones, and some con- 
siderable patches of snow. The pass 
(3,248m., 10,657 ft. ) is attained in 4 hrs. 
from Saas. * The view is superb, that 
to the N. alone being concealed by 
the Weissmies. It comprises the most 
perfect view that I have seen of the 
chain of the Saasgrat, extending to 
Monte Rosa, a large section of the 
Lago Maggiore, and endless ranges 
of mountains eastward, far away into 
the Tyrol. 5 (L. S.) 

[The easiest route up the Weissmies 
(4,031 m., 13,226 ft.) lies up the snow 
slopes leading from the pass to the sum- 
mit in 2 hrs. But, as these give oppor- 
tunity for a splendid glissade, this way 
is usually chosen for the return to Saas. 
In that case the ascent from Saas is 
made by the Trift Alp inn, whence 



stones and snow give easy access to 
the S.W. arete, which is followed 
over rocks and snow, without any 
difficulty, to the top, reached in h j~ 
hrs. from Saas, or 4J hrs. from the 
Trift Alp inn. The panorama from 
the summit is most magnificent, and 
the peak is one of the easiest in the 
Alps, considering its height. The first 
ascent of the Weissmies was made in 
1855 by Herr Hausser, and the climb 
was repeated in 1859 by Messrs. L. 
Stephen and Hinchliff. The Port- 
jengrat, or Pizzo d'Andolla (3,660 
m., 12,008 ft.), on the S. of the 
Zwischbergen Pass, can be climbed 
from the hollow just below the 
pass on the Saas side, the snow 
shelf on the S.W. face of the N.W. 
arete giving access to this ridge, by 
which the top is attained. The peak 
can also be climbed by an interesting 
scramble up the rocky S. arete from 
the Portjen Pass, on its S. It may 
also be gained from the Antrona 
valley, on the E., in 8 J hrs. from 
the village of Antronapiana by way 
of the W. Andolla Alp, whence the 
cairn at the point marked 3,209 m. 
(Swiss and Italian maps), on the E. 
arete, is reached, and that ridge fol- 
lowed to the summit. This way is 
not difficult, save a final traverse 
across the S.E. face. 3 

The descent on the E. side of the 
pass through the Zwischbergen valley 
(also called Val Varia and Val Vaira) 
is long, but lies through fine scenery. 
It is necessary to keep at first left 
from the Col across the most northerly 
bit of the Gemein Alp gl., whence 
rocks and stones on the 1. side of the 
glen lead down to the Ge?nein Alp 
huts (2,006 m., 6,582 ft.) in 2J-3 hrs. 
from the pass. Hence the mule path 
leads along the 1. bank of the stream 
in about the same time to Gondo, on 
the Simplon road (Rte. A). At the 
main hamlet, Zwischbergen (1,383 m. , 
(4,538 ft. ), gold was formerly obtained 
by washing the sand and gravel 
brought down by the torrent, and it 
is said that particles are often seen, 
though the quantity is trifling. 



ROUTE D. SIMPLON TO DOMODOSSOLA 



567 



Many travellers will prefer, how- 
ever, not to descend this long valley 
for its entire length, but to escape 
from it by passes over one or other 
ridges that enclose it. 

(a) To the Village of Simplon. — 
The ridge to the W. separates it from 
the Laqnin glen, opening into 
the Val di Vedro near Al Gaby, a 
little below the village of Simplon, 
which is thus conveniently reached. 
From the Zwischbergen Pass a traverse 
over the Gemein Alp gl. in a N.E. 
direction leads to the W. Weissmies 
Sattel, S.W. of the Thalihorn, whence 
a steep ice slope leads down to the 
Laquin gl., and so to Simplon in 
7 hrs. from the Zwischbergen Pass. 
It is better to mount from the foot of 
the Gemein Alp gl. to the Schien- 
horn Pass, N.E. of the peak of that 
name, and to reach the Laquin gl. 
by way of the Thali gl. An easier 
way is to cross from the hamlet of 
Zwischbergen by the Furgge (see 
Rte. D) to Al Gaby direct. 

[b) To Domodossola. — The ridge to 
the S. and E. divides the Zwisch- 
bergen valley from the Val Antrona 
and the Val Bognanco, through both 
of which Domo d'Ossola may be 
best reached. From the Gemein 
Alp huts the Andolla Pass (2,425 
m., 7,956 ft.), or the more frequented 
Busin Pass (2,501 m., 8,206 ft.), 
on the S., lead direct in 4 hrs. 
to Antronapiana, in the glen of that 
name (Rte. E), whence there is a 
carriage road in 2 hrs. to Domo. By 
bearing E. from the same huts the 
Pontimia Pass (2,393 m., 7,851 ft.) 
gives access to the head of the Val 
Bognanco, the chief hamlet in which, 
S. Lorenzo, is gained in 4 hrs. , and 
Domo in 2J hrs. more. A mule path 
leads from the hamlet of Zwischbergen 
over the Muscera or Mouscera Pass 
(2,117 m., 6,946 ft., Rte. D) to the 
same glen. 



Route D. 

SIMPLON TO DOMODOSSOLA BY THE 
VAL BOGNA?s*CO. 

The traveller who has already de- 
scended from the village of Simplon 
to Domodossola through the gorge of 
Gondo (Rte. A) may take (as did the 
writer — J. B. — in 1863) an unfre- 
quented, but not uninteresting, way 
through the Val Bognanco, not longer 
in point of distance, but more labori- 
ous, than the high road. About 9J 
hrs.' moderate walking are required 
by this route. 

Avoiding the short cut from Sim- 
plon to Al Gaby (Rte. A), the high 
road towards Domo is followed for 
about a mile, till a point is reached 
that overlooks a wooden bridge over 
the torrent flowing from the Laquin 
gl. Descending directly, the pedes- 
trian crosses this bridge and imme- 
diately begins the steep ascent (there 
is a mule path from Al Gaby) that 
leads to the Furgge, or Forcola (1,882 
m. , 6, 1 75 ft. ) In the early morning he 
enjoys the pleasant shade of larch 
trees till close to the cross which 
marks the summit. The views of the 
Weissmies and the twin peaks of the 
Fletschhorn, and the- seemingly im- 
passable range of rock connecting 
these summits, are very fine. On the 
S.E. side the foot path runs along the 
1. side of the stream at first, but 
towards the bottom it is necessary to 
cross to the r. bank (at some dis- 
tance from which the mule path from 
the pass keeps all the way), in order 
to reach the bridge across the torrent 
that drains the wild Zwischbergen 
valley. This is reached in 2| hrs. 
from Simplon. The church of the 
scattered village of Zwischbergen 
(1,383 m., 4,538 ft.— not 1,983 m., 
as on the Swiss map) is left on a 
promontory on the r. 

A track now mounts the steep slope, 
bearing to the 1., till in about f hr. 
it approaches the stream descending 
from a lateral glen, that of Possetta. 



568 PENNINE ALPS. § 21. SIMPLON DISTRICT 



[The head of this glen, not seen from 
below, lies towards the S.E., and a 
faintly marked track, keeping to the 
r. bank of the stream, leads to a 
pass by which the traveller may reach 
Pizzanco, |- hr. above San Lorenzo, 
the chief hamlet in the Val Bognanco. j| 

A course shorter by at least 1 hr. 
leads nearly due E. over the Muscera 
or Mouscera Pass (2, 117m., 6,946ft.) 
Crossing the stream and passing the 
Possetta huts (where fresh milk and 
butter may be obtained), the mule 
path (which ascends on the 1. bank 
of the stream from the Zwischbergen 
valley) mounts by easy zigzags to the 
pass, which is marked by a cross, indi- 
cating the Italian frontier. Although 
this pass is nearly 800 ft. higher than 
the Furgge, some stunted larches are 
seen close to the top, along with 
Ca?npa7inla excisa, Sejiecio um'florus, 
and other high Alpine plants. Mount- 
ing for 10 min. S. of the pass the 
traveller may gain a very fine view of 
the neighbouring snowy Alps, from 
the Monte Leone to the Portjengrat. 
The Muscera or Mouscera Pass leads 
into the N. branch of the Val Bog- 
nanco, which is separated by a ridge 
of high and steep summits on the N, 
from the bit of the Val di Vedro just 
E. of Gondo. The descent is at first 
very gentle, but after about an hour, 
at the small group of the Arza chalets, 
it is necessary to descend steeply, and 
cross to the r. bank of the torrent. 
A path is then followed which ascends 
somewhat till it attains the small 
chapel of San Bernardo, standing on 
the shoulder of the mountain. A few 
paces from the chapel the traveller 
gains his first view of the main valley, 
lying about 3,000 ft. below him. The 
chief village, San Lorenzo (980 m., 
3,215 ft.), the chief hamlet of the 
upper portion of the valley, and so 
often called Bognanco Detttro, is 
perched on a steep slope on the r. 
side of the ravine below the chapel, and 
the mule track descends thither direct ; 
\ hr. below San Lorenzo, at Prestino 
(where there is now a Stabili?nento, 
at a mineral spring rich in iron and 



carbonic acid gas), the carriage road 
begins, and leads through the valley 
in 2 hrs.' walking to Domo. From 
the chapel the pedestrian can keep to 
the 1. side of the ravine, and after a 
long descent by a very rough and 
fatiguing path will gain a bridge over 
the main torrent, called Bogna. Here 
the carriage road is joined, and leads 
through fine scenery to Domo. 

For the Pontimia Pass to the upper 
part of the Zwischbergen valley see 
Rte. C, and for the Fornalino Pass to 
the Antrona glen see Rte. E. below. 



Route E. 

SAAS TO DOMODOSSOLA BY THE 
VAL ANTRONA. 

The Val Antrona is a long and 
beautiful valley, which joins the Val 
d'Ossolaat Villa d'Ossola, about 4^ m. 
below Domo. It is very sinuous, 
especially at its upper end, where at 
the principal hamlet, Antronapiana, 
it divides into two branches, the S. 
of which is called the Ti-oncone glen, 
while the N. is that of Loranco. 
Unlike the Val Bognanco, this exten- 
sive valley runs up to the watershed 
between Italy and Switzerland, occu- 
pying the whole of its E. slope from 
the E. peak of the Spahnhorn, or 
Pizza o? Antigine (a little to the N. of 
the Joderhorn, near the Monte Moro), 
to the Portjengrat, or Pizzo d? Andolla. 
The ridge running E. from the first- 
named summit separates the Val An- 
trona from the Val Anzasca on the 
l S., while the parallel ridge bending 
I E. from the last-named peak divides 
it from the Zwischbergen valley on 
the N. Across the frontier ridge many 
passes lead to Saas, while there are 
! two to the head of the Val Bognanco, 
I which just joins the Val Antrona. 
! Hence it is a valley which can be 
j entered from many sides by many 
I passes, not to speak of the fine 



ROUTE E. SAAS TO DOMODOSSOLA BY VAL ANTRONA 569 



carriage road which leads up in 4 hrs. 
from Villa d'Ossola to Antronapiana, 
along the banks of the Ovesca torrent. 

Till quite recently this valley was 
but little known to travellers, and 
even now but few English tourists 
have visited it. Much first-hand in- 
formation regarding its peaks and 
passes will be found in two articles by 
Signor R. Gerla (their chief explorer) 
in the 1 Bollettino 5 of the Italian Alpine 
Club for 1890 and 1893, tne latter 
volume also containing a monograph, 
by Signor Errera, on the interesting 
Lake of Antrona and its origin. 

It seems most in accordance with 
the scheme of this work to describe 
the passes from the Saas valley to 
Antrona in some detail, merely indi- 
cating, in their proper places, the 
passes from the Antrona glen to the 
three others which surround it. 

It has been pointed out above that 
the Antrona valley splits up into two 
great branches. A glance at the map 
will show that on the W. side of the 
watershed there are three glens, those 
of A Image 11, Furgg, and Of en. From 
each of these three glens two passes 
(one of which is fitted for other than 
climbers) lead over to Antrona, those 
from the Almagell glen giving access 
to the N. branch of the Val Antrona, 
and those from the two other glens 
leading into the S. branch of the 
same valley. 

1. By the Mittel Pass,<?;-Bocchetta 
del Bottarello. — This is the most 
northerly of the known passes to 
Antrona, for the Portjen Pass, to the 
N. of the Mittelriick, is chiefly used 
by parties on their way up to the 
Portjengrat, on the N. of the pass. 
The Mittel Pass lies to the S. of the 
Mittelriick, and to the N. of the 
Sonnighorn. From Saas the Zwisch- 
bergen Pass route is followed to the 
Almagell huts (ij hr. ), and then a 
track, in and out of glaciated rocks, 
followed in a S.E. direction to the S. 
bit of the Rothplatt gl. The true 
pass is 3,047 m. (9,997 ft.), but the 
descent on the other side is down a 
.steep rock wall, so that smugglers and 



• hunters prefer to mount to a cairn 
(3,155 m. on the Siegfried map) on 
a shoulder of the N. ridge of the 
Sonnighorn (2 hrs. from the Almagell 
Alp), whence there is an easier way 
to the S. Andolla gl. 

[The Mittelriick, or Pizzo Loranco 
(3,324 m. , 10,906 ft. ), can be climbed 

; in f fir. from the Mittel Pass, or in 

I \ hr. from the Portje Pass ; the Sonnig* 
horn, or Pizzo Bottarello (3,492 nu, 

! 11,457 ft.) is accessible from the 
Mittel Pass in \\ hr. by the N. ridge 
and the Italian face of the peak, but 

: is best attained from the Furgg glen 

I by the easy S.W. face. J 

After quitting the gl. it is advis- 
able not to follow the Loranco stream, 
but to bear to the L past the Corone 

\ and other chalets, descending near 
Cheggio to its level, and so reaching 

\ Antronapiana (3 J hrs. from the pass) 
through the Loranco glen, which 
describes a long curve of horseshoe 
form, before uniting at that village 
with the S. branch. 

[From the most easterly of the An- 
dolla huts the Andolla Pass (2,425 m. , 
7.956 ft.) leads over, in 5 hrs. from 
Antronapiana, to the head of the 
Zwischbergen glen, while from Cheg- 
gio, 1 J hr. above the main village, the 
Busin Pass (2,501 m., 8,206 ft.), more 
used by the natives, lies rather to the 
E. By bearing E. from the Busin Pass 
route, San Lorenzo, in Val Bognanco, 
may be gained in 7 hrs. from Antrona- 

j piana by the Preja Pass (2,361 m., 
7,746 ft.), while from Cheggio direct 
the Fo7-nali7io Pass (2,356 m., 

I 7,730 ft.) also gives access to San 
Lorenzo, in Val Bognanco, in \ hr. 
less. 2 

2. By the Antrona Pass, or Passo 
! di Saas. — Tins is the most frequented 
! way from Saas to Antrona, and re- 
i mains of the old paved track recall 
the fact that it was formerly one of 
the great passes of the Alps, though 
thrown into the shade by the Simplon 
I after the construction of a road across 
I it in the early part of the present 
century. A provision in the first 
j communal charter of Sion, granted by 



570 PENNINE ALPS. § 21 



SIMPLON DISTRICT 



the Bishop in 12 17, contains a reser- 
vation to the Bishop of all the ' vise 
stratse ' on this side, while those on 
the other belong to the Antrona men, 
thus showing that a paved track 
already existed across the pass, and 
it is mentioned distinctly in a docu- 
ment of 1267. The pass was fre- 
quented by merchants in the fifteenth 
and sixteenth centuries, but fell into 
disuse after the great landslip of 1642 
(see below), which nearly ruined the 
village of Antronapiana. Attempts 
were made in the eighteenth century 
to repair the track, with a view to 
transporting salt across, but they do 
not seem to have met with great 
success, and the rise of the Sim- 
plon meant the decline of the Antrona 
Pass as a pass of commercial im- 
portance. 

On the Swiss side it is approached 
through the Furgg glen, which may 
be gained by a side path from the 
village of Almagell, or by a direct one 
from Zermeiggern. The route through 
that glen and up a little gl. is 
free from difficulty, and the pass 
(2,844 9,331 ft.) is gained in 
4 hrs. from Saas. 

[From the pass an easy ridge on 
the N.E. leads in \\ hr. to the summit 
of the Latelhorn, or Punta di Saas 
(3,208 m., 10,525 ft.), which is also 
easy of access direct from the Furgg 
glen, so that horses may be taken to 
within \\ hr. of the top. ' It com- 
mands a most superb view, extending 
from Monte Rosa to the Tyrol, with 
the subordinate ranges of Piedmont, 
Tessin, and Lombardy.' (M.)3 

A few glissades lead to the mule 
track on the Italian side, which zig- 
zags down to the Cingino lake, and 
then along the L bank of the Tron- 
cone torrent, past the Campliccioli 
huts (here falls in the way from the 
harder Gamposecco Pass, 3,120 m. 5 
10,237 ft., leading from the Furgg 
glen past the Camposecco lake), to 
the large and beautiful Antrona lake 
(1,083 m *> 3' 553 ft-) This lake owes 
its origin to a great bergfall from the 
Pozzoli range, on the N.W., which 



took place on July 27, 1642, and 
killed 95 persons, besides destroying 
the parish church and 42 houses 
or barns. As noted above, it had 
a fatal effect on the Antrona Pass. 
\ hr. below is the village of 
Antronapiana, 902 m. , 2,959 ft. 
(3 J hrs. from the pass), the chief 
hamlet of the valley, and picturesquely 
situated at the meeting of the two 
branches of the valley. The high 
altar of the parish church has some 
curious wood carving of Swiss origin, 
dating from the middle of the seven- 
teenth century, doubtless procured 
when the church was rebuilt after its 
destruction in 1642. Simple accom- 
modation may be obtained in the 
village, so it is the best headquarters 
for any traveller wishing to explore 
the valley, while the herdsmen in the 
various chalets on the Alpine pastures 
are reported to be very hospitable. 

[The passes from this village to the 
Zwischbergen glen and the Val Bog- 
nanco have been noticed under 1. 
above. Hence several passes lead 
through the Ovesca and Troncone 
glens to the Val Anzasca, on the S., 
which, reckoned from E. to W., are 
the Passo Cianghin or del Mottone 
(2,219 m - ? 7,281 ft.), leading direct 
to Calasca ( 7 hrs. ) ; the Passo di 
Lavazzero, del Mottone, or del Ton 
(2,391 m., 7,845 ft.), and the Passo 
di Valaverta or di Lavazzero (2,551m., 
8,370 ft.), both leading to Ponte 
Grande or Vanzone (8J-9 hrs.) ; the 
Passo di Lareccio (2,602 m. , 8, 537 ft. ), 
to Vanzone (9 hrs. ) ; and the Passo 
delle Lonze (2,741 m., 8,993 ft*-)i to 
Ceppomorelli ( 10 hrs. ) Mountaineers 
could doubtless find other passages, 
as the entire ridge between Antrona 
and the Val Anzasca requires and 
deserves more minute exploration than 
it has as yet received. J 

A good and pretty carriage road 
now leads from Antronapiana down 
the Ovesca valley, past San Pietro in 
Schieranco (thence the Salarioli Pass, 
1,774 m -> 5? 820 ft., leads over to 
Calasca, in the Val Anzasca), to Villa 
d'Ossola (2 hrs.), where the Val 



ROUTE E. SAAS TO DOMODOSSOLA BY VAL ANTRONA 571 



d'Ossola is reached. This large and 
prettily situated village has now a 
station on the railway from Domo 
d'Ossola to No vara (Rte. A), and by 
it Domo is reached in 4^ m. 

The scenery of the lower Val 
Antrona is very beautiful, worthy to 
be compared with that of the Val 
Anzasca, save that the grand views of 
Monte Rosa are here wanting. 

3. By the Ofenthal Pass, or the 
Passo d'Antigine. — The short wild 
gien of the Ofenthal opens into the 
Saas valley a little above the Mattmark 
inn. It is best reached by a broad 
path from the Distel chalets, a little 
further up the valley, but in the glen 
itself it is hardly traced. The way 
lies by the r. bank of the torrent 
and then by the side of the Ofenthal 
gl. There are two passes, of which 
that to the S. is the easiest. It may 
be attained (2,838 m., 9,311 ft.) in 
2\ hrs, from the Mattmark inn. It 
commands an extensive view east- 
ward, but it is worth while to climb, 



in 1 hr. or less, up the Sfiaknhorn, 
or Pizzo d'Antigine (3,194 m., 
10,479 ft-)? passing over the lower E. 
summit (3,059 m. ), which has great 
topographical interest as marking the 
point whence starts the ridge limiting 
the Antrona valley on the S. 

The descent from the S. Col is by a 
path which follows the 1. bank of 
the 7'roncone, soon meeting the path 
from the Antrona Pass, Antronapiana 
being gained in 3 hrs. from the pass. 
The descent from the N. Col (also 
called Cingino Pass) commences over 
a very steep snow slope, and then 
lies down a rocky declivity, broken 
at places into precipitous faces on 
the r. side of a snowy gully. Here 
a guide is almost requisite. In l\ hr. 
the first chalet is reached, and § hr. 
further the traveller attains the Cingino 
huts, below the lake of the same name, 
and here joins the path from the 
Antrona Pass. For many of the 
above particulars we are indebted to 
Mr. F. Mills. 



573 



INDEX 



Abeille, Col de l\ 308, 321 
Abime, Pont de 1', 200 
Abimes de Myans, 90, 186-7, l8 9 
Abisso, Rocca dell', 5-6 
Abondance, 425 

H. du Mont de Grange 
Abondance, La Chapelle d.% 425 

H. de la Croix 
Abries, 48, 60, 82 

Grand Hotel, opened in 1898, 45 
rooms, pension 8 francs a day ; 
H. de la Poste (Carlhian) on the 
Place ; H. du Mont Viso (Challiol) ; 
Au Chamois des Alpes (Richard), 
civil people 
Abries, Col d', 67-8, 76 ; Crete d', 70 
Acceglio, 46 

Small Inn, near the bridge 
Achat, Bel, 346 

Pavilion 
Acles chalets, 81 
Adler Pass, 545 
Adroits glen, 178 
Agnan en Vercors, St., 179 

Chez Belli er 
Agneaux glacier, 165 ; Montagne des, 
1 17-8, 137, 165 ; glacier de la Plate 
des, 151 

Agnel, Col de 1', 103-4; Col dell', 8; 

lake (1) 8, (2) 270 
Agnelin, Col de 1', (1) 124, (2) 125 
Agnelliera, Cima, 12 
Agnello, Col dell', 51 
Agnieres, 177, 182 

Chez Serres 
Aigle, 552 

Grand Hdtel des Bains, excellent, 

outside and above the village ; H. 

Beau-Site, near the station, and H. 

Victoria, both good 
Aigle, Rocher de 1', n6, 144 
Aigliere, Pointe de 1', 162 



Aiguebelette, 191 

Chez P drier, poor 
Aiguebelette, Col and Lac d\ 191, 195 
Aiguebelle, 91, 129 

H. de la Parfaite Union 
Aigueblanche, 224 

H. des Voyageurs (Perret) 
Aigues Rousses huts, 127 
Aiguille, Grande, 141 ; Mont, 178, 
183 ; Plan de 1% 345 

On no. 3 a small Inn 
Aiguilles, name of, 358 ; village, 60 

At the latter, chez Gue'rin and chez 
Avas 

Aiguillette, Grande, 51, 59 
Ailefroide, Col de 1', 154 ; peak, 137, 

141, 155-6; plain, 153, 162 

Chalet-Hotel '(chez Rolland), opened 

in 1897, fair mountain inn, but some 

way from the chalets 
Aillon, Chartreuse d', 203 
Aillot, Col d\ 176 
Aime, 216, 218, 225 

H. du Petit St. Bernard; H. du 

Lion d'Or (Cote) 
Airasca, 49, 68 
Airon, Col de 1', 397 
Aisone, 32 
Aix les Bains, 184 

Grand Hotel ; H de V Europe et 

du Globe ; H. Venat et Bristol ; 

Splendide Hotel, and many others 
Ala, Ghicet d', 258; valley and vil- 
lage, 262-3 

At the village, Albergo Bruneri, 

fair 

Alagna, 493, 521 

H. Monte Rosa (Guglielmina), ex- 
cellent ; G?-and Hotel ; H. Weisshorn 
(Montella) 
Alagna, Bocchetta di, 533 
Alban des Villards, St., 126, 133 



574 



INDEX 



Albaretto glen, 45, 47 
Albaron, 251, 260-1, 264-5 
Albaron, Selle d', 261, 264 
Albens, 200 

H. de France 
Albergian, pass and peak, 72, 78 
Alberts, Les, 81 
Albertville, 224 

H. Million, excellent 
Aibigny, St. Pierre d', 90, 223 

H. Fontana ; H. Fontatius 
Alby, 200 

Allalin, pass and peak, 544-5 
Allee, Col de 1\ 486 ; Pigne de 1\ 481 
All£e Blanche, 328, 371-2 ; glacier, 372 
Allemont, 125 

Chez Ley dier, fair ; chez P err atone 

(at the Fonder ie) ; chez Vial, near the 

church 

Allemont, Grande Lance d\ 136 
Allemont, Kivier d 5 , 125, 132 

Chez Sert (Ferr£ol) 
Allevard, 128, 187 

Etablissement des Bains; H. des 
Bains ; H. du Pare ; H. du Louvre ; 
and others 
Allinges castles, 419, 422 
Alios, 24-5 

H. du Midi (Pascal), very good 
Alios, Col d\ 24 
Allues glen, 236-7, 240 
Almagell, 541 ; glen, 569 
Almese, 262 

Alpe, Chalets de 1', 116-7, 150-1 
Refuge Paquebot (Castillan), fair 
mountain inn 
Alpe, Col de i\ 147 ; Grand', 285-6 
Alpette, Col de 1\ 81 ; ridge, 188 
Alpetto chalets, 62 
Alphubel, pass and peak, 543-4 
Alpien glacier and waterfall, 558-9 
Alpignano, 94, 257 

Altare, Col d', (1) 2, (2) 257 ; Col del 

Piccolo Altare, 535 
Alvau, pass and peak. 145, 157 
Amadeus VIII. , 419 
Amait di Viso, 57 ; Col de 1', 66 
Ambel, Cl£mence d', commune of, 158 
Ambin, Col d\ 103; Dents d', 29, 89, 

101, 105 ; group, 29, 89, 101 ; Roche 

d', 104-5 I valley, 101-3 
• Am^ricains, Les,' 34 
Amianthe, 436-7, 447 
Amont, Combe d', 142 ; Peyrou d', 148 
Amphion, 419 

Grand Hotel des Bains 
Ancelle, 71 
Andey, Pointe d', 333 
Andolla, pass and peak, 566, 569 
Andorno valley, 536 



Andrate, 535 

Andre de Meouilles, St., 3, 24 

Hotel Trotabas 
Andre le G-az, St., 195 

H. Rossat 
Andre\ Tour St. , 308, 313 
Ane glacier, 157: Pointe Cote de 1', 

2 ; Tete a 1', 347, 395, 403 
Anelle, Col d', 20 
Angrogna valley, 74 
Anna, Sta. , Col de, 17, 19, 32; plain, 

9 ; sanctuary, 19, 32 
Anne, Ste. , chapel and lake, 41; 

gorge, 95, 99 
Annecy, 207 

Grand Hotel Verdun ; Grand 

Hotel d' A ngleterre 
Annemasse, 333, 419 

H de laPaix ; H. de la Gare 
Annes, Col des, 210 
Anniviers valley, 457, 479 
Annot, 3, 24 

H. Philip, very good 
Annuit, 214 

Anselm of Canterbury, St. , 300 
Anterne, Col d', 347, 399, 403-4; Col- 
let d', 402-3 
Antey, 513 

Anthemoz huts, 414 

Small In?i 
Antigine, pass and peak, 568, 571 
Antrona Pass, 570 
Antronapiana,, 570 

Two small Inns kept by Marani 
(the better) and Savoni 
Antrona valley, 493, 568-70 
Anu, glaciere du Grand, 209 
Anzasca valley, 524-6 
Aosta, 295, 299 

H. du Mont Blanc (Verney), out- 
side the city, excellent in every 
respect; H. de la Couronne (Merlo), 
in the town ; H. Victoria (Bertolini), 
new, opposite the station 
Aoste, 196 

Chez Guillot ; chez Morel 
Aoste, St. Genix d 5 , 196 

H. Labully 
Appennines, 2, 6 

Aqueducts, 103, 106, 203, 443, 513 

Araches, 397 

Aravis, Col des, 209 

Arbar^tan valley, 129 

Arbe glen, 133 

Arb^ron, Ouille de 1', 259 

Arbiera, Becca d', 475 

Arbole huts and pass, 302-3 

Arc valley, 90-2, 95, 118, 197, 222, 

229-30 
Arcalod, Pointe d\ 201 



INDEX 



575 



Arcano, Col dell', 78 
Areas, Pic des, 166 
Arche, Creux de 1', 397 
Archinard glen, 171 
Arciusaz, pass and peak, 205 
Ardente, Fontaine, 183 
Ardon, 555 

H. du Po?it 
Areches, pass and village, 217 
Arene Villard d', 117 

H. Clot 
Argentera, Punta dell', 1, 4, 11 
Argentera, village, 33 

Two small Inns 
Argentiere, Aiguille d', 388, 393 ; 
Cold', 384; glacier, 387; Jardin 
d\ 380 ; village, 380 

H. de la Couronne, best ; H. 
Bellevue 

Argentiere, L\ 168, 180 ; Col de 1', 2, 
30-4 ; Pointe de 1', 120 ; Rochers de 

1'. 134 
Argentine torrent, 217 
Arguille, Rocher d', 133 
Arias, pass and peak, 160 
Arietta, Col de 1', 310 
Arith, 200-1 
Arlevaz chalets, 404-5 
Arly valley, 198, 205-6, 21 1-2 
Armancettes glacier, 369 
Armellina ravine, 6 
Armoy, 422 

Arnas, Col d\ 259 ; Collarin d', 257; 

Punta d', 257, 259-60, 264 
x\rnod, P. A., 364,450, 464 
Aroletta, Croix d', 317 
Arolla, 460-3 

Kurhaus (Spahr), opened in 1897, 

excellent ; Hotel du Mo?it Col Ion 

(Anzevui), the old inn 
Arolla, Aiguilles Rouges d', 456, 463 ; 

Col d', 468 ; Col de la Reuse d\ 451 ; 

glacier, 460; Mont Rouge d', 461; 

Pigned', 453, 462 
Arolla, Grande, and glacier. 310-1 
Aroiia, 563 

A lb ergo d Italia e Post a ; A lb ergo 

San Gottardo 
Arondine torrent, 209, 212 
Arp, Col de 1', 293, 376 
Arpenaz, Nant d\ 334, 398 
Arpeto, Passo d\ 8 
Arpette glen, 385 
Arpille, 382 
Arpingon, Col d', 130 
Arpisson huts and peak, 301-2, 305 
Arpitetta huts and peak, 481 
Arpont, pass and peak, 238, 241-2 
Arrondaz, Cold', 99 
Ars huts, 386 



Arselle, Bocchetta de 1\ 253 

Arses, Pointe des, 264 

Arsine, Col d', 116-8, 150 ; Glacier 

d', 164 
Arud, Bourg d', 139 

H. Giraud 
Arvan glen, 91, 122-3 
Arve valley, 333-7 

Arves, Aiguilles d\ 108, in, 116, 
119,120-1; Cold', 91, 122-3; Col 
des Aiguilles d', 120-1 ; St. Jean 
d', 91, 123 ; St. Sorlin, glacier, 
126-8 

At St. Jean, chez Grand, near the 
church, poor, -but improved 
Arvette glen, 122 
Arveyron, Source de 1', 340 
Arvier, 295 

Croce Bianca 
Arvieux, 84 
Arvillard, 129-30 

Com?7ierce 
Arzinol, pass and peak, 456, 459 
Aspres sur Buech, 182 
Assaly group, 287-8, 290-1 
Assietta, Col dell', 72 
Asti, Ca d\ 253 ; Rotarius of, 252 
Attia, Colle d', 258 
Auberts, Les, 169, 172 
Aubonne, 550 

H. de la Couronne; H. du Lion 
d'Or 

Augstbord Pass, 489 
Auille, Cima dell', 273, 317 
Aulph, St. Jean d', 424 

H. de la Balance ; H. de la Vallee 
oV Aulph 
Aupillous, Pic des, 167 
Aurouse group, 177, 182 
Aussois and pass, 238-9 

H. du Soleil d'Or 
Autaret, Col de 1', and Punta, 254 
Aution, L', 9 
Aval, Peyrou d', 148 
Avalanche chalets, 100 
Avalanches, Col des, 143, 154 
Avalon, 187 
Avanchers glen, 233 
Avants, Les, 552 

Grand Hotel, excellent 
Avaudrues, Les, 402 
Avernet group, 287-8, 291 
Averole glen, 254, 259 
Avigliana, 71, 94, 257 
Avise, 294 

Avolions, Col des, 429 
Avouettes, Les, 480 
Avril, Mont, 443, 448 
Ayas valley, 515, 529 

H. de I' Ours, fair, at the village of 



576 



INDEX 



Ay as, and the good H. des Cimes 
Blanches, at Fiery, higher up the 
valley 

Ayer huts, 405 

Ayerne, Roc d\ 414 

Ayes, Col des, (1) 84, (2) 188 

Aymaville, 295, 300 
Small, poor Inn 

Azet, Col de 1', 429, 440 



Bachelard glen, 2i, 23, 25 

Bagnes valley, 439-443, 44 8 "5 I 

Bagnola, Val, 522 

Bailletta group, 275 

Baisses glen, 81 

Baldassare, Punta, 98 

Balen, 540 

Balfrin, 494, 547 

Ballandaz gorges, 240 

Ballotta plain, 277 

Balma chalets, (1) 74, (2) 77 

Balma Ghilie\ Cima, 11 

Balmat, Jacques, 337, 346, 351-2 

Balmaverain chalets, 281, 318 

Balme d'Ala, 250, 262 

Albergo Reale (Canale), new; Ah 
bergo delle Alpi ; Albergo del Belve- 
dere (Camussot) 
Balme, Col de, 381 

Hotel Suisse, on the top 
Balme, La, (1) 196, (2) 334, (3) 370 

Small Inn at no. 3 
Balme, La, de itencurel, 179 

Chez Belle ; chez Repellin 
Balmenhorn, 506 
Balmette, Col de la, 136 
Balmuccia, 522 
Balsiglia, 78 

Ban d'Arrey, Col du, 385 
Bancs ridge, Les, 216 
Bange bridge and grotto, 200 
Bannio, 524, 526 

Inn 

Bans, Les, 145, 155, 167 ; Col des, 155 ; 

vallon des, 162, 167 
Bar, Col de, 434 ; Pre de Bar huts, 386, 

Baracon, Col du, 293, 376 
Baranca Pass, 534, 538 

Albergo del Club Alpino, small 
Inn, near the top 
Barberine, Col de, 410, 418 ; glen, 409, 

417-8 ; waterfall, 382 
Barcelonnette, 34 

H. duNord(0*sXe\) ; H. des Alpes 
Bard, 298 ; Cima di, 106 
Bardonneche, 93, 97 

Aquila Nera, opposite the station, 
good 



Bardonneche torrent, 79-80, 94 
Bardoney, Col de, 310 
Barge, 53 

Leon d 1 Oro 
Bariot, Col de, 129 
Barma d'Oropa, Colle della, 519, 536 
Barmaz, La, basin, 413-4 
Barme hut, 407 
Barraux, 187-8 
Barrhorn, 490 
Barricate, Le, 33 

Barthelemy, St., Col de, 473 ; glen, 24, 

35 ; valley, 473-6 
Bartlett, Mr., 93 
Basei glacier and peak, 318 
Basmont, Col de, 224 
Bassac, Col de, 282 ; Col dere" de, 

281-2; Mont, 282; Punta d£re" de, 

282 

Bassachaux, Col de, 425 

Bassagne, pass and peak, 278-9 

Bastia, Monte, 296 

Bathie, La, castle, 224; Col, 217 

Batiaz, La, castle, 554 

Batie Neuve, La, 181 

Baton glen, 136 

Bauges, the, 198-205 

Baulet, Croisse, 209, 213 

Baux glacier, 406 

Baveno, 562 

Grand II. Bellevue ; Grand H. 
Baveno ; H. Beaurivage 
Bayard, Chevalier, 187 ; Col, 177 
Bayasse, 21, 23 
Bayet glen, 224 
Bayle, Pic, 127 

Bazel, Pointede, (1) 275, 278, (2) 278-9 
Beaufort group, 198, 213-8 ; village, 
198, 214 

H. du Mont Blanc ; H. du Cheval 
Blanc 

Beaumont, Albanis, 230, 400-1 ; Clot, 

175 
Beaune, 234 
Beaupre\ Julien de, 178 
Beauvoisin, Pont de, 195-6 

H. de la Poste ; H. du Cours ; H. 

du Commerce 
Beaux Pr£s basin, 406 
Bee de Pralognan, Grand, 240, 242, 

247 

B£daz, Pas de la, 413 
Bego, Monte, 8 
Belchamp ,209 
Belgirate, 563 

Grand Hotel 
Bella, Isola, 562 

Delfino ; Vapore 
Bellacomba glen, 254-5, 2 57 
Bellagarda, 269, 318 



INDEX 



517 



Bellavarda, 269 
Bellavarde, Rochers de, 274 
Bellaza, Col du Petit Glacier, 471, 473 
Bellecombe, 233 ; Col de, 434 
Bellecote, Sommet de, 247 
Belledonne, 111-2, 135-6, 138 
Belleface, Col de, 301 ; Roc de, 295 
Bellegarde castle, 334, 397 
Bellentre, 225 

Belle vaux glen, (1) 204-5, ( 2 ) 4 2 3 
Belleville glen, 235 
Bellevue, Pavilion, 369 
Bellino glen, 44, 46, 49 
Beloiseau, 383 

Belvedere, (1) 14, (2) 293, (3) 348, 
407, (4) 525 

At no. 1, H. Belvidere (Franco) 
Benites, Fontaines, 139 
Benoit, St., cascade, 95, 238 
Bens glen, 128, 130 

Ber anger, Aiguille and Col de, 
369, 377 ; glen, 180-1 ; Pierre a, 344 ; 
Bocae, 135 

At the Roche, Chalet-Hotel, built 
by the Soci^te' des Touristes du 
Dauphine" 

Berard, Col de, 408; Pierre, 141; 
Pierre a, 406, 408 ; waterfall, 382, 
407 

At the Pierre a B. there is a small 
Inn 

Berarde, La, 137-8, 140-5 ; Pic de,i37 
At the village is the Chalet-Hotel, 
built by the Soci^te" des Touristes du 
Dauphine" ; a comfortable little moun- 
tain Inn, well kept by M. Auguste 
Tairraz, of Chamonix 

Berches, Les, 161 

Berisal, 558 

H. Berisal and de la Poste, good 

Bernard of Menthon, St., 207, 293,300, 
43i 

Bernard Pass, Great St., 426, 428-9, 
431-2 

Hospice, fair accommodation 
Bernard Pass, Little St., 292-3 

Hospice, accommodation not good 
Bernarda, Testa, 375 
Bernardo di Trivero, Monte San, 537 
Bernaude, Rocca, 98 
Bernin, 188 

H. Berger 
Berold of Saxony, 91 
Beron, St., 191 

H. de la Gare 
Berthemont, Baths of, 14 

Grand Hotel (Cardon) 
Bertol, Col and Dents de, 463-4 
Berzesio, 33 

Leon d'Oro 
I. 



Besimauda, 6 
Bessa, La, 535 
Bessanese, 251, 259, 264 
Bessans, 229, 251, 263 

Chez Cimaz, rough but improved 
Besse, 123 
Bessee, La, 180 

H. Girard, at La Bessie Basse 
Besso, Col del, 71 ; Lo, 481-2 
Bestalone huts, 318 
Bettafurka, 527 
Bettliner Pass, 527 
Beuil, 22 ; Touet de, 22 

At Beuil H. Continental (Pour- 
chier) ; H. Donadey ; H. Millo ; H. 
Fe'raud 

At Touet H. Latty, near the 

station, good 
Bex, 552 

Grand H. des Salines, outside 

the village, excellent ; Grand H. des 

Bains ; Villa des Bains ; Pension de 

Crochet 
Bia, Bocchetta, 533 
Biaisse glen, 169-70 
Bialot gorge, 66 

Bianca, Becca, 287 ; Cima, 471 ; Punta, 
305 ; Rocca, (1) 50, (2) 174 ; Sea, Col 
de, 66 

Bianco, Corno, 518, 521, 532 ; Pizzo, 
525 

Biandrate, counts of, 493, 521, 524, 

540, 556 
Bicocca, Col della, 45 
Bider glacier, 546 
Biella, 536 

Testa Grigia, best; Angelo ; Leon 

d'Oro 

Bies glacier, 490-1, 495; horn, 488; 

joch, 490 
Billiat, Pointe, 423 
Bioge, Pont de, 423 
Bioley, Le, 226 
Biolley, Roc du, 215 
Bionaz, 466 

The curd receives travellers 
Bionnassay, Aiguille de, 379 ; Col and 

Glacier, 358 ; village, 368-9 
Bionnay, 369 
Biot, 424 

H. Arpin ; H. des Balances 
Bioula, Punta, 317 
Biron, Col de, 45, 49 
Bisanne, 213 

Bise, Col de, 421, 425; Cornettes de, 

420-2, 425 
Biselx, Tete, 392 
Bissorte glen, 88, 92 
Bistenen Pass, 557, 565 
Blachiere oasis, La, 37 

P P 



578 



INDEX 



Blaitiere, Aiguille de, 360 

Blanc : Berrier and Col, 293, 376 ; 
Chateau and Col, 287-8, 290 ; Cheval 
and Col, 407, 410-1 ; Col, 391 ; 
Collet, 235; Glacier, (1) 152, 164, 
(2) 408; Lac, (1) 115, (2) 237, (3) 
408 ; Col du Lac, 236-7 

Blanc : Mont, 329-30, 334-5, 344, 
346-7, 371, 404, 550; ascent of, 
349-35 8 ! Tour of, 367 ; de Cour- 
mayeur, 355, 357; de Seilon, 441, 
449. 454-5. 4 6 3 ; Tacul, 350, 357 ; 
Glacier, 358, 380; Petit, 242 

Blanc : Pelaou, 229, 264, 276 ; Rocher, 
in, 131-2, 134; Tournelon, 445; 
Tout, 317 

Blanche : Alle'e, 328, 371-3, and glacier, 
372 ; Ar£te, 524 ; Dent, 463, 478, 
482, 508 ; Louie and Col, 289, 291 ; 
Pierre, Col de la, 234 ; Riou, glen, 
24, 35 ; Roche, 246 ; Rosa, Pointe 
de, 440, 456 ; Tete, 464, 469, 476, 
478 

Blanches, Col des Cimes, 527 ; Col des 
Maisons, 430, 444-5 ; Col desTerres, 
170-1 

Blanchet, Col, 50 

Blanchets, Corne des, 87 

Blancien, pass and peak, 450-1 

Blavettes huts, 38, 42 

Bl£one glen, 24, 35 

Bleu, Lac, ^61 

Bleue, Aiguille, 57 

Blonay castle, 551 

Blonniere, La, 209 

Blore, Val de, 14 

At the La Bolline hamlet is the 
H. de France, bad 

Bluffy, Col de, 208 

Bo, Monte, 537 

Boaira, Col della, 6 

Bobbio, 68 

Albergo del Camoscio, fair 

Bocambre\ 288 

Boccioleto, 533 

Bocconere ravine, 316 

Boege, 419, 422 

H. des Allobroges ; H. des Ba- 
lances 

Bceuf, Pas du, 487 

Bceufs Rouges, Crete des, 154, 167 

Bogna torrent, 560, 568 

Bognanco, Val, 567-8 

Boiret, Colle del, 269 

Bois du Col chalets, 76 ; glacier des, 
34° 

Bois, Le, 247 

Chez Ruffier, fair quarters 
Bollene, La, 14 

Hotel (Reynaud), good 



Bonaveau, chalets, and peak, 414-5 

Small Inn 
Bonhomme, Col du, 316, 367, 370 
Bonne, valley, 160, 175-6 ; village 
(1) 290, (2), 422 
At village no. 2, H. du Navire 
Bonnenuit, 119 
Bonnepierre glacier, 141, 152 
Bonnet Carr£, 19, 21 ; du Pretre, 234 
Bonnet, St., 169, 177 

H. des Alpes 
Bonneval les Bains, 215 

H. des Bains 
Bonneval sur Arc, 228, 264 

Chalet-Hotel, built by the Lyons 
Section of the French Alpine Club ; 
good little mountain Inn, kept by M. 
Montaz, the owner of the H. Inter- 
national at Modane 
Bonneval, Punta, 265 
Bonneville, 333, 422 

H. de la Couronne ; H. de la 
Balance 
Bonney, Col, 308, 316 
Bons-St. Didier, 333, 419 

H. des Voyageurs 
Bonvoisin group, 158 ; Pic, 168 
Bonzo, 268 
Borca, 526 

Bordon, Col and Garde de, 481, 486 
Borels en Champoleon, Les, 169, 
172 

Chez Bernard, humble 
Bordon glen, 12, 16 
Boret huts and Pas, 411 
Borgne, Longe, 459 ; Mont du, 236 ; 

valley, 459 
Borgo, 55, 66 

Bornand, Grand and Petit, 210 

At Grand B. , H. de la Victoire ; 

H. de la Croix- St, Maurice 
At Petit B. , H. des Balances 
Borne glen, 210 
Bornette, Col de, 202 
Borrant, ijtfant, 367, 370 

Small Inn 
Borromean Islands, 562 
Borromeo, St. Charles, 563 
Bors glacier, 520 
Bortelhorn, 558 
Borter glen, 487 
Boscodon abbey, 181 
Bosses, Combe des, 433-5 ; du Dro- 

madaire, 350, 355 ; ridge, 353, 355 
Bossieres gorge, 227 
Bosson, Bees de, 485 
Bossons, Glacier des, 337, 345-6, 350, 

354 

Bostan, Col de, 411, 413 
Bottarello, pass and peak, 569 



\ 



INDEX 579 



Bottiglia, Colle della, 534 
Botzeresse, Col de, 429, 441, 445 
Boucher, Roc del, 83 
Bouchet, Brie, 60, 70; Col, 69 ; glen, 

(1) 70, (2) 92, 235-6 
Bouchiers, Col des, 169 
Boudous glen, 170 
Bougy, Signal de, 550 
Bouquetin, Col du, 271; peak, 481, 

487 

Bouquetins, animals, 296-7 ; Col des, 

469 ; Dents des, 463 
Bourbiere, Col de, 129, 132 
Bourcet, map by, 108 ; Pic, 145, 150 
Bourdeau, 185 

Bourget, Col de, 83; lake, 185; Le, 

(1) 84, (2) 185 

At no. 2, H. Ginet ; H. du Levant 
Bourne gorges, 179 
Bourrit, M., 339, 351, 364, 405-6, 426 
Bousiejas, 21 

Chez Madame Martin, simple 
Boussine, Tour de, 442 
Bousson, 77, 82-3 ; Col, 84 

Small Inn at the village 
Bout du Lac, 207 ; du Monde, (1) 128 

(2) 186, (3) 187 
Bouveret, Le, 420 

H. de la Tour, poor ; Buffet on 
the quay 
Bovernier, 428 

Bovinant, Col and meadows, 193-4 
Bovine, chalets and Pointe, 384 
Bozel, 240, 247 

H. des Alpes, good ; H. Favre 
Brabant, Col de, 134 
Bramafanglen, 19 ; torrent, 267 ; tower, 
299 

Bramans, 95, 101 

At the hamlet of Le Verney on the 
high road, H. de la Croix Blanche, 
poor and dear 

Bramant glen, 126 

Brame Farine, 128 

Bramousse glen, 42 

Brandes, Plateau de, 115 

Brandjijoch, 490 

Braus, Col de, 9 

Bravaria, Col de, 19 

Breda valley, 128-32 

Breithorn, Zermatt, 502, 512 

Breney, Col de, 453, 457 

Brens, 196 

Brenva, Col de la, 355 ; glacier, 357, 
372-3 

Br£onna, Col de, 485 ; Couronne de, 

459, 486 
Brequin, Mont, 234 
Breuil, 512 

At Breuil itself, H, des Jumeaux ; 



at Giomein, above, the good H. du 

Mont Cervin 
Breuil, Col de, 215, 293 
Br^vent, 346 ; Col du, 404 
Brevieres, 226 

H. des Alpins (chez Gaide) 
Brevon river, 423 
Breya, Col de la, 385, 392 
Brezon, 333 
Briancon, 81, 118 

In the town, H. de la Paix ; at the 

station, the good H. Terminus 
Briancon, Notre Dame de, 217, 224 ; 

Pas de, 224 
Bricherasio, 53, 68 

A Ibergo della Corona 
Bricolla, chalets, cols, and peak, 477, 

486 

Brides les Bains, 240 

H. des Thermes ; H. de France ; 
Grand Hotel ; H. des Baigneurs ; and 
others 
Bridoire, La, 196 

Chez Bellemain ; chez Bauvagnet 
Brieg, 557 

H. des Trois Couro fines and de la 
Poste, good ; H. d ' Angleterre ; beds 
may be had at the good Railway 
Restaurant 
Briga, 7 

H. de la Source, good 
Brignoud, 132, 187 

Restaurant de la Gare 
Brissogne, 303 
Brocan, Cima, 11 
Brocard, Le, 382, 428 
Broglio glen and peak, 322-3 
Brossasco, 49 

Aquila Nera ; Croce Bianca 
Brouffier mine, 114 
Brouillard glacier, 357 
Brouillot huts, 309-10 
Brouis, Col de, 9 

Brule, N. Col du Mont, 427, 451, 464- 
5, 468 ; S. Col du Mont, 465, 468 ; 
Mont, 462-5 

Brun, Nant, glen, 234 

Bruna huts, 314, 321 

Brunei torrent, 60 

Brunetta, fort, 97 

Brunissard, 84 

Brunnegghorn and joch, 490-1 
Bruno, St., bridge and chapel, 192-5 
Brusson, 515 

H. du Lion d'Or, fair ; Aquila 
Bruyere huts, 234-5 
Buchardet glen, 172 
Buche, Col de la, 345 
Buech valley, 182 
Buet, 405-6 

P P 2 



5 So 



INDEX 



Buffaz, Col de la, 209 

Buffe glen, 122 

Buffere, Col de, 118 

Bugeon torrent, 232 

Buissiere, La, 188 

Bule* glen, 65 

Bure, Pic de, 177, 182 

Burenta glen, 19 

Burgundian tongue, 295, 298-9 

Busin Pass, 567, 569 

Busserailles, Gouifre des, 513 

Bussoleno, 94 

Buthier torrent, 433, 465-7 

By chalets, 437 ; W. Col de, 446-7 



Caere, Col de, 182 
Cabret, Caire, 13 
Cadibona, Colle di, 2 
Caffarels, Les, 24 
Caille bridge, 208 
Cairasca torrent, 560 
Cairos glen, 8 

Calabourdane glen, 228, 246, 273 
Calabre pass and peak, 278-9 
Calasca, 526 

Inn, tolerable 
Calvin, 439 
Camasco, 539 
Cambrelle glen, 269 
Campello, pass and village, 539 
Campertogno, 521 

Albergo Ferraris, tolerable 
Campezzone pass and peak, 539 
Campiglia, 310 

Cantina delle Alpi 
Campioli, 526 
Campo, Col de, 533 
Camposecco Pass, 570 
Canard, Bee du, 139, 159 
Canosio, 47 
Cantoira, 268 

A Ibero Fiorito ; Giovane Italia ; 
both humble 
Capre gully, 260 
Capucin, Mont, 437 
Caraglio, 45, 47 
Carbonniers glen, 66, 68 
Carcoforo, and pass, 534 

Albeigo del Monte Moro 
Carisei, Col de, 536 
Carle, Pre" de Madame, 152-3 
Caron, pass and peak, 236 
Carr£, glacier and peak, 144 
Carrie, Tete, 377 
Carrel, Chanoine, 300, 302 
Carres, Les, buttress, 406 
Carro, Col du, 269-270, 278, 318 
Casalibus, Notre Dame de, 193 



Cases, Col des, 426 

Casera, Col della, 533 

Casse, Grande, pass and peak, 222, 

241-3 
Casset, Le, 117 
Cassiorte, 461 
Casteldelfino, 48-9 

Albergo di Francia, fair, civil 

people 
Castellet, Le, 36 
Castelmagno, 47 
Castelponte, 50 
Casterino glen, 7 

Small Inn at the hamlet of La 

Maddalena 
Castillon, Col de, 9 
Castor, 507, 515, 517 
Catogne, 384-5 

Cavale, Pas de la, (1) 21, 33, (2) 169 
Cavales, Col du Clot des, 149-50 
Cavallina, Col della, 45 
Cavet huts, 216 
Cayolle, Cols de la, 23 
Ceillac, 40 

Chez Arnaud (Antoine), poor 
Cejol plain, 44 
Celliers glen, 224, 231 
Celse Niere glen, 155 
Cenis, Mont, 27-8, 94-7 ; Petit 

Mont, 104-5 I Tunnel, 92 

On no. 1 the Hospice ; and near, 

the H. de V Ancienne Poste, fair 

quarters 
Centron, 225 
Ceppomorelli, 526 

Albergo delle Alpi, fair ; Albergo 

del Monte Moro 
Cerces, pass and peak, 86-7 
Ceres, 262 

Grande Albergo 
Ceresera, Col di, 71 

Ceresole, Pointe de, 304, 321 ; Sca- 
lari, 319; village, 314, 318 

At the springs, Grand Hotel, ex- 
cellent, but dear ; Albergo della Le- 
vanna, cheaper, but not as good ; H. 
Bellagarda and delle Fonti 

Cergues, St., (1) 332, (2) 419 

At no. 1, H. Capt, best ; H. de 
r Observatoire ; H. Auberson ; H. de 
la Poste, in the village, always open 

Cerru lake, 270, 277 

Cervetto, Col di, 65 

Cervieres, 85 

H. des Chevaux Rouges (Rey) ; 
chez Faure (Vincent) 

Cerveyrette torrent, 79, 85 

Cervin, Mont, 507-8 

Cervo river, 536 

Cesare, Baize di, 62 



IXDEX 



581 



Ce'sanne, 62, 73, 80 ; Sauze de, 73, 1 
77, 82 

At C£sanne, Croce Bianca, fair 
Italian inn 

Ceutrones, 225 

Cevins, 217, 224 

Croix Blanche ; Lion d'Or 

Cez, Gros, 302-3 

Chaberton, pass and peak, 81 

Chablais, 395, 421-3 

Chable, 439 

H. du Gidtroz (Nicolier), recom- 
mended 

Chagne stream, 39 

Chailles gorge, 191 

Chaillol group, 172-3 

Chaise torrent, 205 

Chalanches mines, 125, 136 

Chalanson, pass and peak, 261-2 

Challant castle, 298 ; valley, 515 

Chalvachere torrent, 148-9 

Chalp, La, (1) 51, 59, (2) 84 

Chambave, 299 

Chambeyron, Aiguille de, 28-30, 37, 

46 ; Brec de, 29-30, 36-7, 46 
Chambery, 186, 197-8 

Grand H. de Frunce, good and 

reasonable ; H. de la Paix, opposite 

the station, with Restaurant 
Chambon forest, 72 
Chambre, La, 91 ; Col de la, 236 

H. Perrus ; H. de la Gare 
Chamechaude, 190, 193 
Chamois, animals, 528 ; Col des, 438 ; 

Pointe des Pattes des, 284 ; village, 

528 

Chamois, 301 

Chamonin, Col, 321 

Chamonix, (1) 94, 263, 337-348, (2) 

334 ; Mont Blanc from, 353 

At no. 1, H. Couttet, frequented 

by English climbers ; Londres et 

Angleterre ; Imperial ; Mont Blanc ; 

Royal et de Saussure ; Alpes ; Beau 

Site ; and others 
Chamousset, 91, 129 

H. de la Gare 
Champagny le Bas, 247 
Champanamen huts, 474 
Champery, 395, 413-4 ; Col de, 426 
In the village, H. de la Dent 

du Midi ; H. de la Croix Fdddrale ; 

H. des Alpes; H. de Champiry ; 

H. Berra 
Champ ex, 384-5 

H. du Lac, well situated ; H. du 

Glacier, new ; H. Daniel Crettex ; 

H. Emile Crettex ; H. Biselx ; all 

very cheap, but in summer crowded 

by Swiss visitors 



Champhorent, 140 
Champlas du Col, 73 

H, National, poor 

Champoleon, 169 

Humble Inn (chez Bernard) at the 
hamlet of Les Borels 

Champorcher, and pass, 309 
Cantine du Cog 

Champs, Col des, 23 

Chandolin, 480 

H. Chandolin, opened in 1898 
(same owner as Hotel Bella Tola at 
St. Luc) 

Chanrion, 448 

Chanrouge, Col de, 237 

Chanrousse, 135 

Chantre, Table au, 406 

Chapareillan, 189 
H. Leroy 

Chapeau, Le, 341-2 ; Pas du, 251 
Small Inn at the former 

Chapelle, La : 

d ' Abon dan ce , 425 , Croix ; Un ion ; 
en Valgaudemar, 158, H. du Mont 
Olan (Gueydan), fair mountain quar- 
ters ; en Valjouffrey, 175, chez 
Guibert ; en Vercors, 179, chez 
Revol 

Chapelu, Balme, 155 

Chapelue gorge, 60 

Chapieux, Les, 371 

Soleil, best of the two small inns 

Chappet sur Villaz glaciere, 209 

Chapy, Col de, 434 

Charbonel, Pointe de, 250, 263 

Charbonniere castle, 91 

Chardon, Col and glacier, 141, 157 

Chardonnet, Aiguille du, 389, 393 ; Col 
du (1), 86, (2), 388 

Chardonney chalets, 52 

Charforon, pass and peak, 322 

Charmaix, Notre Dame du, 92 

Charmette, Col de la, 194 

Charmettes, Les, 186 

Charmoz, Grands, 360-1 ; Petits, 345, 
360-1 

Charniat bridge, 200, 202 

Charnier, Col de, 178 ; Grand and 
Petit, 129, 132 

Charriere, pass and peak, 145, 151 

Chartreuse : Aillon, 203-4; Curriere, 
194; Durbon, 182; Grande, 141, 
183, 189, 192-3 ; Pesio, 6 ; Pierre 
Chatel, 196; St. Hugon, 128; St. 
Pierre de, 188, 193 (H. Victoria and 
H. du Dteeri) ; Pr£mol, 134-5 ; 
Reposolr, 211 ; Vallon, 423 

Charve, Mont, 291 

Charvensod, 301 

Charvet, pass and peak, 2 



582 



INDEX 



Charvin, Mont, 206, 209, 212 
Charvonnex, 209 

Chasseforet, Dome de, 222, 241-2 
Chasten, Col de, 519, 532 
Chat, pass and peaks, 185, 191, 196 
Chateauroux, 171 

Chez Eyme 
Chatel, 425 

Ckatelard, Col du, 234; Le, 198, 
200 ; Hotel Suisse, 383 ; Pointes, 246 
At no. 2, H. de V Harmonie, good 
Chatelet, Le, 36 

Chatillon, castle, 184 ; Col de, 396 ; 

Cret de, 201 ; village, 299, 514 
At the last, H. de Londres, good 
Chaud de Forgnon, Col de la, 436 
Chaulier glacier, 170 
Chaurionde, Pointe, 205 
Chaux, Col de la, 440 
Chavancour, pass and peak, 471-2 
Chavanis, chalets, 301-2 ; pastures, 

304-5, 309 
Chavannes, Col des, 293, 372 
Chaviere, Col de, 238 ; glacier, 235-6 
Chavieres chalets, 244 
Chaz Seche, Col de, 301 
Checouri, Col de, 374 
Chedde, 336 
Cheggio, 569 
Chenalette, 432 

Cheran valley, 197, 199-200, 204-5 

Cherel, Col de, 202 

Ch6ret, pass and peak, 145 

Chermontane, Col de, 451 ; huts, 442 

Chesery, Pas de, 425 

Ch£tif, Mont, 373, 375 

Cheval, Fer a, 401 ; Blanc, 407, 410-1 ; 

Noir, 232 
Chevaline, 202 

Chevres, Grasses, 404 ; Pas de, 455, 

457. 461 

Chevriere, Roche, 239, 241 

Chiabotta del Pra, 66, 69 
Good little mountain Inn 

Chiaffredo, San, Pass, 64-5; Sanc- 
tuary, 54 

Chialamberto, 268 

A lb ergo dell' Albero Fiorito, en- 
larged, and good 

Chianale, La, and Ponte, 50 

Chiapera, Colletta di, 43, 46 

Chiapili di sopra, 270, 278, 318 

Chiapous, Col de, 11 

Chiaves, 256 

Chible, Pointe de la Grande, 111, 119 
Chignin-Les Marches station, 90, 187 
Chillon castle, 552 
Chinaillon glen, 210 
Chindrieux, 184 
Chinivert, Brie and Col, 78 



Chiomonte, 94 

Stella d'Oro ; Giardino ; Ferrovia 
Chiosso, 46 
Chippis, 479 

Chironio, Col di Pian, 269 
Chisone valley, 29, 67, 71-3 
Chiusella, Val, 297-8 
Chivasso, 297 
Cholliere, La, mound, 238 
Chorges, 181 

H. de la Poste 
Christomet, Croix de, 213 
Christophe, St., and Clapier, 138-9 
Chez Pierre Turc ; chez Antoine 

Turc ; both poor 
Ciabriera, Col di, 38, 43 
Cialancia, Porta della, 74 
Cialancias, Cime de, 20 
Ciamarella, Col, 261-2 ; glen, 258 ; 

peak, 250, 260, 264-5 I Piccola, 261-2 
Ciamosseretto glen, 322 
Cian, passes and peaks, 471-2, 476 
Cianghin Pass, 570 
Cians gorges, 22 
Ciardonei, pass and peak, 311 
Ciarmetta, Colle della, 258 
Ciastiglione glen, 17, 19 
Ciatagniera, Punta, 83 
Ciausa, Passo della, 20, 32 
Ciaussine\ Crot del, 260 
Ciaval, Pera, 257 
Cimet, Le, 23 

Cingino huts and lake, 570-1 
Cinq Pointes, 128-9 
Cirie, 256 

Leon d'Oro ; Corona Grossa 
Ciriegia, Col della, 15-16 

H. de la Cascade, near the water- 
fall, good 
Ciusalet, Mont, 106 
Civrari, Monte, 256 
Clai Sup^rieur, 4 
Clair, Pont St., 208 
Claire glacier, 150 
Clair£e valley, 79, 85-6, no 
Claix, Pont de, 113, 183 
Clans, 18 

H. de Paris 
Clapier, Col de, 104-6 ; Mont, 2, 8, 13 
Claran, Col de, 129 
Clarea valley, 106 
Clarens, 551 

H. Ketterer ; H. des Cretes ; H. 
Roth ; H. Roy ; and many other 
hotels and pensions 
Claret glen and huts, 125, 131, 134 
Claus, Vallon, 38 
Claux, Les, 153, 166 
Clavans d'en Haut, 124 

Chez Aubert t fair 



INDEX 



583 



Clavieres, 80 
Clefs, Les, 209 
Clelles, 178, 183 

H. de la Gare, near station, fair ; 
H. du Lion d'Or, in the village 
Clement, M. , 414-5 ; St. , village, 170 
CleYaus glacier, 133 
Cleuson, Col de, 440 
Ctevieux torrent, 411 
Cline, Roche, 25 
Clopaca, Passo, 103 
Clos, Le, 119 

Clot, Beaumont, 175 ; glacier and glen, 

158, 160, 176 
Olot, lie, en Valgaudemar, 158 

Small, fair, mountain Inn, opened 
in 1897, at the hamlet of Le Plaine 

Clou, Col and glen, 226, 284 

Club huts. See p. xl of the ' Pre- 
liminary Notes ' 

Cluse, Pas de la, 201 ; St. Michel de 
la, monastery, 94, 263, 338 

Chises, 334 

H. de la Gare ; H. National ; H. 
de r Union ; H. Revuz 

Coassolo, 256 

Coche, Col de la, (1) 132, (2) 233 
Cochette, Col de la, (1) 127, (2) 194, 

(3) 201 ; glen, 125-6 
Cocor, Pointes du Grand, 272 
Cceur, Petit, 217 

Cogne, 296, 304-8 ; Fenetre de, 309 
H. de la Grivola, enlarged and 
improved 
Coin, Col du, 216 ; glacier, 154 
Coise, 91 

Col, Haut du, 210 ; Lac du, 131 

Collalunga, Passo di, 20, 32 

Collerin, pass and peaks, 260-1 

Collet, Col de Plan, 174 

Colletta, La, (1) 53, (2) 74 

Collon, Col de, 462, 464 ; Col du Petit 

Mont, 427, 451, 468 ; Crete a, 449, 

451 ; Mont, 462 
Colloney, Pointe du, 335, 399 
Colma, Colle della, (1) 536, (2) 537 
Colmars, 24 

H. de France (Maurel), good; H. 

Roux 

Colomb, Mont, glen and pass, 8, 13 
Colomban des Villards, St., 126, 
133 

Chez Girard ; chez Se'raphin ; both 
rough 

Colombardo, Colle del, 256 

Colombier glen, 173 ; Mont, 184 

Colombieres, 217 

Colon glen, 70, 82 

Colourets, Grand and Petit, 277 

Combal, Lac de, 372 



Combarenel gorge, 244 

Combassa torrent, 289 

Comberousse, Col de, 133 

Combetta, Pointe de, 532 

Combeynot, Pic de, 117 

Combin group, 426, 430, 437, 443-7 

Combloux, 213 

Comboe" chalets, 301-2 

M. Carrel's hut is no longer avail- 
able without permission, but the 
herdsmen are hospitable 

Commune, Croix and huts, 402 

Condamine, La, 34 

Condove, 94, 256-7 

Confine, 49 

Conflans, 224 

Coni, 4-5, 49 

Barra di Ferro, excellent Italian 
inn 

Contamines, 369 

H. de 1' Union, fair; H. du Bon- 
homme 
Coolidge, Pic, 142, 154 
Coppa, Colle della, 269 
Coppet, 550 

H. du Lac 
Corbassiere glacier, 440, 443^4 
Corborant, Cima di, 20 
Cordier, Pic de Neige, 164-5 
Corenc, 193 

Chez Michallet 
Cormet, Mont, 375 
Corneiller, Col de, 238 
Corni, pass and peak, 298 
Cornier, Grand, Col du, 487 ; peak, 

477, 482, 487 
Cornu, Lac, 408 
Cornus, Rochers, 102 
Corps, 175-7 

H. du Palais; H. de la Poste ; 
H. de la Paix 
Correrie, (1) 193-4, (2) 203 
Corridor, Le, 352, 354 
Cors, pass and peak, 471, 513 
Corteviccio, 255 

Albergo Cibra?'io, poor 
Cortlis chalet, 517-8 
Corvaria glen, 166 
Cossila, 536 

Hydropathic Establishment 
Costagrande lake, 62-3 
Coste Rouge, Col de la, 154 
Cote, Belle, Col de, 176 ; Montagne de 

la, 351-2 ; Mur de la, 355 
Coteplane, Col de, 73 
Cottius, king, 97 
Couard, Col du, 115, 125-6 
Couleau, Col de, 170 
Coulette, Col de la, 39-40 
Coulomp glen, 24 



5^4 



INDEX 



Coupa, Col de la, 171 
Couppoz, Le, 337 

Courmayeur, 373 ; Mont Blanc de, 
355 » 357 i Mont Blanc from, 357 

H. Royal (Bertolini), excellent, but 
rather dear; Angelo, Italian; Union; 
Mont Blanc, at La Saxe, \ hr. dis- 
tant 

Cournour, Punta, 74 
Couronne, Col de, 486 
Courtes, pass and peak, 388 
Coutens meadow, 399 
Couvercle, 344 

Coux, (1) Col de, 411, 426, (2) 422 

Couz, Col and waterfall, 191 

Crammont, 373 

Crau, La, 285 

Creche, La, 203 

Cret chapel, 309 

Cr£t, Col du, 440, 456 ; Le, 210 

Cretaz, 301 

Crete Seche, Col de, 450 
Creuse chalets, 383 
Creux, Breche du Grand, 147 
Crevasse, Punta, 301, 315 
Crevasses, Sentier des, 117, 150 
Crevola, 560 
Inn 

Cr^voux glen, 34 
Crey Bettex huts, 215 
Criou, Rochers de, 396 
Crissolo, 48, 54, 64 

A I berg, del Gallo and del la Corona, 

both kept by Pilatoni, fair quarters 
Cristillan, Col de, 41 
tristina, Santa, Sanctuary, 262, 268 
Cristol, Col de, 118 
Crocetta, Col della, 268 
Croissant, Aiguille du, 444, 446 
Croix, Col de la, (1) 69, (2) 134 
Croix de Fer, (1) 381, (2) 398 ; Col de 

la, 126, 131 
Croix, Grande, 96 

Croix Haute, Lus la, and Col, 108, 
113, 177, 182 
At Lus, Cafe" du Nord, tolerable. 
Crolles, Dent de, 188, 190 
Cromwell, Oliver, 68 
jCrosa glen, 539 
Croset, Colle dei, 258 
Crosetta, Colle della, 539 
Crosey, 414, 426 
Crosiasse, Colle di, 258 
Croso, Bocchetta del, 536 
Crossey gorge, 190 
Crotes huts, 473 
Crouis, Col de, 19, 23. 
Crozena huts, 69-70 
Crozet lake, 135, 187 
Cruello torrent, 69, 75 



Cruet, 90 ; Nant, 226, 284 
Crupillouze lakes, 172 
Cry, Haut de, 555 
Cucheron, Col du, 194 
Cucumelle, Croix de la, 166 
Cul du Bois, 202 
Cula, Col de la, 41-2 
Culet, Croix de, 414 
Culoz, 184 

Buffet; H. Folliet; H. Mimon, both 

near the station 
Cun6az, Col de, 529 
Cunei, pass and Sanctuary, 474 
Cuneo, 4-5, 49 

Barra di Ferro, excellent Italian 

inn 

Cuorgne, 319 

Corona Grossa ; Cannon d'Oro 
Cuppiera, Col della, 36 
Cure\ Pas du, 112 
Curriere, Chartreuse de, 194 
Curt i Hard, Le, 130, 133 

H. des Bains, small, but good ; 
H. Baroz 
Cusy, 200 
Cuzzago, 560 



Dalmas, St. , 14; sur Tinee, 20 

At the latter, poor Inn 
Dalmazzo, Borgo San, 5 ; -di 
Tenda, 7 

At the former, Due Galline ; Del- 
fin 0 ; Barra di Ferro 

At the latter, Stabilimento , ex- 
cellent 
Daluis, 22 

Inn, dirty 
Dames, Chateau des, 467, 471-2 ; Plan, 
37o 

Damiano, San, 45 

Angelo ; Croce Bianca ; Sole 
Daniel, Chemin^e de, 406 
Dant, Nant, 396 
Dappes valley, 332 
Darbonneire, Col de, 456 
Dard, gorge, 302 ; Pierre a, 412 ; 

Pointe du, 242 ; waterfall, 345-6 
Darre'i, 393 

Dauphin, Bee, 71 ; Chateau, 49; Le, 
115 ; Mont, 61, 180 

At no. 2, Albergo di Francia, 
fair, civil people 

At no. 4, H. de la Gare (Court) 
Dauphine" Alps, 28, 107-8, 136-8 
D^campoux, 201 
D6gioz, 316 

H. du Grand Par adis, good 
Deluc, MM., 405 



INDEX 



585 



Demonte, 31 

Albergo Garibaldi 
Denis, St., 95 
Derby; forest, 294 
Derochoir, Col du, 400 
DeYochoirs huts, 217 
Desert, of the Chartreuse, Le, 192-3 ; 
lie, en Valjouffrey, 176 

At the latter, chez Bernard ; chez 
Rousset (Joseph), both poor 
D6serte, Col de la Casse, 150 
Deserts, Les, 186, 203 
Deux Eaux, Entre, chalets, 244-5 

Little Inn, sometimes open 
Deux Nants, 234 

Deux Nants, Entre, (1) 248-9, (2) 401 

Devens, Les, 552 

Devoluy, 177 

Bad Inn at the chief hamlet, St. 
Etienne ; chez Chaillot (at the mill), 
at St. Disdier, better 

Diable, Chemin£e du, 132; Pont, (1) 
202, (2) 213 ; torrent, 139, 147 

Diablons, pass and peak, 481, 488 

Diavolo, Cima del, 8 ; Ponte, 255 

Didier, Pre St., 294 

H. de VUnivers et de la Rose, 
good ; H. de la Couronne 

Die, 182 

H. St. Do??iinique 

Dieta, True della, 258 

Dieu, Doigt de, 116, 144 

Digne, 2, 24, 34 

H. Boyer-Mistre ; H. Rhnusat ; 
H. du Grand Paris 

Dingy valley, 208 

Diosaz glen and gorges, 336, 404 

Discovery Rock, 516 

Disdier en Devoluy, St., 177 

Chez Chaillot (at the mill), toler- 
able 

Distel chalets, 541 
Divonne, 550 

Hydropathic Establishment ; H. de 
la Truite 
Dixenze torrent, 456 
Dolcino, Fra, 537 
Dole, the, 332, 350 

Dolent, Aiguilles Rouges du, 389 ; Col 

du Mont, 390 ; Mont, 376, 386, 390 
Dolin, Mont, 461 
Dollone, 374 ; Mont, 375 
Dolomieu, M. de, 177 
Dolomites, French, 177 
Dom, 509, 543 ; joch, 509, 542 
Dome, Col du, 274 ; glacier, 358, 380 
Domene, 135, 186 ; Grande Lance de, 
136, 187 

H. des Arts ; H. des Touristes ; H. 
du Midi ; H. des Voyageurs 



Domerion, Col; and lakes, 135 
Domessiny 196 
Domodossola, 560 

H. de la Ville or de la Poste, good ; 
H. d'Espaghe 
Donato, 536 
Dondena huts, 309 
Dondeuil, Col de, 519 
Donnas, 298 

Dora, Baltea, 294-5, 298-9, 372-3, 
433 ; Piccola, 80 ; Riparia, 67-8, 73, 
77. 79-8o, 94 

Doran, Col, 211 

Doravidi peaks, 287-8, 290 

Dordogna, Colle della, 298 

Dories, Aiguilles, 393 

Doria torrent, 186 

Dorinet torrent, 214 

Dormillouse, 170 

Doron de Beaufort, 213-4 ; de Pra- 

lognan, 222, 240-1 
Doucy, 233 
Doussard, 207 
Douvaine, 418 

H. de la Poste ; H. de la Couronne ; 

H. de Geneve 
Doveria river, 559 
Drac valley, 168-9, I 7 1 ' T 83 
Dragone, Punta del, 471 
Dranse : d'Abondance, 425, 550 ; de 

Bagnes, 438-9 ; de Belle vaux, 423 ; 

d'Entremont, 428-30 ; de Morzine, 

423-4 
Dreizehnenhorn, 489 
Drinc, pass and peak, 301 
Drochetta Pass, 538 
Dromadaire, Bosses du, 350, 353, 355 
Drome, Department of the, 107 
Dronaz, Pic de, (1) 432, (2) 436 
Dronero, 45 

Leon d'Oro ; Braccio di Ferro 
Dru, Aiguille du, 341, 361-2 
Drubiaglio, 94 
Druos, Bassa di, 16 
Dufourspitze, 497 n. y 499, 504-6 
Duingt, 202, 207 
Duis, chalets, 267, 270 
Durance, sources of the, 81, 85-6, no, 

valley, 79, 113, 180-1 
Durand, Captain, 109; Col and glacier, 

481-2 ; Mont, glacier, 447-8 
Duranus, 15 

Durbon, Chartreuse de, 182 
Durnant gorges, 384, 428 
Dza, Col de, 472 
Dzasset, Col and glacier, 316 



Earth pillars, 40, 52, 168, 171, 268* 
302.459 



586 



INDEX 



Eaux, Entre Deux, 244-5 
Small Inn, sometimes open 

Echaillon precipices, 233 

Echelle, Pas de 1', 333 ; Pierre a 1', 
354 ; Pointe de 1', 237-8 

Echelles, Les, 191 
H. Durand 

Echelles de Planpinet, Col des, 79, 87 

Ecole, 202, 204 

Chez Andreva?it 

Ecot, L\ 269 

Ecrins, Col des, 140, 151 ; Dome des, 
143 ; Flambeau des, 145 ; Pointe 
des, 109, 119, 137, 140, 142-3, 152, 
163 

Egginer, 543 

Egralets, Les, 344 

Egreve, St., 194 

Egua, Col d\ 534 

Einfischthal, 457, 479-80 

Eisten, 540 

El, Pont d', 300 

Elva, 45 ; Pelvo d\ 46, 50, 64 

Emaney, Col d', 383, 410, 417-8 ; glen, 
408 

Emay ravine, 114 
Embrun, 181 

H. Thouard, best ; H. des Alpes 
Emd, 489 

Emilius, Mont, 295, 302-3 
Emosson basins, 409-10 
Encel, Pas d', 415 

Enchastraye, Col de 1', 21 ; Mont, 21, 
33 

Enclave de la Fenetre, 213-4, 370 ; Col 
d\ 370 

Enclaves, Rochers des, 214 

Encombres, pass and peak, 92, 234-5 

End, Nord, 505 

Enfer, glaciere de Y, 209 

Enfetchores rocks, 149 

Engins gorges, 112, 179 

Entdeckungsfels, 516 

Entraigues, (1) 122, (2) 167, 169, (3) 

At no. 3, H. Chautard, fair 
Entraque, 9, 12 

Angelo, fair; Moro, tolerable 
Entraunes and St. Martin d', 23 
At the former, chez Trouche, poor, 
but good 

At the latter, H. Roux, new and 
good 

Entrelor, Col d\ 317 
Entremont, St. Pierre d',i88, 194; 
valley, 428-30 ; village, 210 

At the former, H. Mollard, good 

At the latter, H. Due 
Entrevaux, 22 

H. Chauvin, pretty good 



Entre vernes, 202 
Entreves, 140, 365, 373 
Envergneures, Les, 287, 289 
Epaisseur, Aiguille de 1', 191, 195 
Epicoun, Bee d', 448, 466 
Epierre, 91, 129 

H. Andreys 
Epine, Mont del', 191, 195 
Epinel, 301 

Cantine 
Ersa, Col d', 476 
Escarene, L', 9 

H. de Paris, indifferent 
Eschen, death of M., 336, 405 
Escher, death of M. , 381 
Escombailles, Col des Grandes, 135 
Eseltschuggen rocks, 483-4 
Escreins glen, 39 
Esprit, Aiguille du St., 249 
Esseillon fort, 95, 238 
Estaris lake, 170 
Estellette glacier, 372 
Esteng, 23 

Estrete, Col de Val, 172 

Estronques, Col des, 41 

Etablons, Col des, 439, 554 

Etache chalets, 90, 102 ; Col, 102 ; glen, 

101 ; Rognosa d', 29, 89, 101-2 
Etages, Les, 140 ; Pointe des, 145, 147 
Etancons glacier and valley, 140-1, 

148-9 
Etendard, L', 127 

Etienne, St., de Crossey, 190; de 
Tinee, 4, 20 ; en Devoluy, 177 

At no. 2, H. de France, good 

At no. 3, poor Inn 
Etoile, Belle, 206 ; lake, 151 
Etrembieres, 332 

Etret, Grand, cols and glen. 317, 320, 
322-3 

Etroit du Vallon, Col de 1', 86 
Etroite, Col de la Valine, 97-8 
Etroits, gorge, 210 
Etroubles, 433 

Croix Blanche ; National 
Evancon stream, 515 
Ev^che's, Trois, (1) 24, 35, (2) 116-7, 120; 
Ev6que, Col de 1', 427, 451, 468 ; peak, 
462 

Ev&ques, Rocher des Trois, 1, 21, 34 
Eves, Entre les, glen, 407 
Evettes, Col and glacier, 264, 266 
Evian, 419 

Grand H. des Bains ; Grand Hotel ; 

H. Fonbonne ; and many others 
Evionnaz, 553 
Evolena, 459 

H. de la Dent Blanche (Spahr), 

recommended ; Grand Hotel (An- 

zevui) 



INDEX 



587 



The owner of each has also an 
Hotel at Arolla 
Exchaquet, M., 364 
Exilles, 94, 103 
Eychauda, Col and lake, 166 
Eymes, Les, 188 
Eymond, Villard, 115 
Eynard, St., 188 
Eyvia, Grand', 295, 301-2, 304 



Faetto glen, 74-5 
Faiteau torrent, 53 
Faller Alp, 528 ; horn, 530 
Fallere, Mont, 433-4 
Fang, 479 
Fare lake, 127 
Farel, Guillaume, 182 
Farnareita, 42 
Faroma, Monte, 471, 474 
Faucigny, castle, 333 ; province, 422 
Faucille, Col de la, 332 
Inn 

Faurio, Roche, Col, 164 ; peak, 152 

Faverges, 206 

H. de Geneve ; H. de la Poste 

Favre, Mont, 293, 376 

Fayet, Le, 335 

H. de la Paix ; H. du Pont de Bon 
Nant 

Fea, Col de, 268 

Fee, 543 ; pass, 544 

H. du Dom ; Grand Hotel ; Grand 
H. Saas-Fee, all in same hands 
(same owners as the H. de la Poste at 
Visp) ; H. Saas-Fee, smaller (same 
owner as the H. des Alpes at Visp) 

Felikjoch, 517 

Fell Railway, 95-6 

Fenestrelle, Passo di, 11-2 

Fenestrelles, 72 
Rosa Rossa, good 

Fenetre, Col de, (1) 426, 439-43, (2) 
434» (3) 476; Col de Plan, (1) 301, 
(2) 309 

Fenetre, Enclave de la, 213-4, 370 
Fen£tres, Col des, 72 
Fenils, 80 
Fenis, 299 

Fer, a Cheval, 401; Col du, 21, 32; 

Croix de, (1) 381, (2) 398 ; Col de la 

Croix de, 126, 131 
Ferney, 332 

H. de France 
Ferpecle glen, 476-7 

At the Salay chalets the good little 

H. du Col dHirens 
Ferrand, glen, 123-4 ; Grand, 177 
Ferrant, Punta, 103 
Ferrari, Gaudenzio, 522, 536-7 



Ferrera, 96 

Ferret, Cols, huts, and valleys, 328, 
385-6 

At the Swiss huts, small Inn 
Ferrichliicke, 540 
Ferriere, La, 130 

H. Ramus, poor 
Ferro, Croce di, Pass, 253, 256 ; Cro- 

cetta di, 253 
Fervento, 533 

Inn 

Fesse chalets, 229 
F£toules, Tete des, 139, 159 
Fier gorges, 207-8 
Fiery, 515 

H. des Cimes Blanches, good ; also 
a new Inn 
Fifre, 145 
Filliere river, 208 
Fillinges, Pont de, 396, 422 
Findelen glacier, 501 
2 small Inns near by 
Finestre, Col delle, 4, 12 

On the S. side (but in Italy) the 
H. delta Madonna, good, but often 
crowded, especially by Italian officers 
Finhaut, 383 

H. du Bel Oiseau ; H. du Mont 
Blanc; Beau Sijour ; P. de la 
Croix Fe'de'rale ; P. du Perron ; 
all cheap and simple 
Fionnay, 440 

H. du Grand Combin, now under 
new management, excellent ; H. 
Fionney, smaller 
Fiorenza, lake, 56-7 ; piano, 55 
Firmin en Valgaudemar, bt., 159, 

i75 

H. Davin 
Fiz, Rochers des, 347, 395, 403 
Flaine lake and pass, 397-8 
Flegere, 347 ; Col de la, 407 

At the former, small Inn 
Fletschhorn, 547, 564 ; joch, 564 
Flon torrent, (1) 195, (2) 212 
Floriaz, La, 348 ; Col and peak, 408 

Small Refreshment Booth 
Flua Alp, 528 

Flumet glen, 125-6 ; village, 209, 
212 

At the latter, H. du Mont Blanc ; 

H. des Balances 
Fobello, 539 

Italia ; Post a 
Fodan, Clapier de, 269 
Foglietta, Croix de, 226 
Foilly, Signal de, 413 
Fond, Col de la Montde du, 236 ; Col 

du, 284 ; glen, 226, 284 
Fond de France, 130 



588 



INDEX 



Fonds chalets, (i) 239, (2) 403-4 ; 

glen, 403-4 

At no. 2 of the chalets there is now 

a small Inn 
Fongillarde, 52 
Fontaine, 233, 235 
Fontainemore, 519 
Font an, 8 

H. Grivelli 
Fontanabran, 383 
Fontanella, Punta di, 471-2 
Font Sancte, Pointe de la, 30, 38-9 
Fontanus, 215-6 
Fontcouverte, 124 

Forbes, Principal, 64-5, 109, 156, 341, 
39i 

Forca, Colle dell a, 269 
Forciolline glen, 52, 61-2 
Forchet, Mont, 422 
Forchu, Nant, 205 

Forclaz, Col de la, (1) 210, (2) 368, 
(3) 381 

On no. 3, H. Gay-Descombes 
Forcle, Col de, 293 
Forcletta, Pas de, 488 
Forcola, 567 
For£ant lake, 51-2 
Fornalino glen, 569 
Fornet, (1) 228, (2) 285 

At no. 2, small Inn, kept by the 
ex-garde-chasse Bois. 
Forno Alpi Graie, 267 

Alpi, probably the worst inn in the 
Alps 

Forno di Lemie, 255 
Forno (Val Strona), 539 

Leone d'Oro, fair 
Foron glen, (1) 211, (2) 419 
Fort, Col de, 471 ; Mont and Col du 

Mont, 440 
Forzo, 310-n 
Fos, Col de, 283 
Fouille, Pas de la, 178 
Fouillouze glen, 36 
Fouly, La, chalets, 386 
Four, Haut du, pass, 205 
Foura, Punta, 316, 322 
Fourane, Val, 82 

Fourche, Grande and Petite, 391-3 
Fourches, Col des, 21 
Fourchons, Mont, 432 
Fourioun, Roccie, 57 
Fournache chalets, 238 
Fourneaux, 92 
Fournel glen, 168-9 
Fours, Col de, 23 ; Col des, 371 

At the Le Collet hamlet on the 
route of no. r , chez Girard, poor 
Fourvoirie, La, 192 
Fous, Col della, 8 



Foy, Ste, 226 

H. du Mont Blanc, fair ; H. 
Gacon 

Fraiche, Col de la, 130 ; waterfall, 242 
Fraitar, Col du, 188 
Francesetti, Count, 250, 252 ; Punta, 
265 

Franchet, hamlet, 228, 280 ; Rochers 

de, 227, 273-4 
Francois de Sales, St., 208, 338 ; glen, 

200, 203 
Francoz, 236 
Frappier, Col, 70 
Frasse glacier, 369, 377 
Fraxinetum Saracens, 95, 429 
Fr6aux, Les, and waterfall, 116, 122 
Fr£bouzie glacier, 367 
Freddo, Rio, glen, (1) 6-7, (2) 17, 32 
Freidour, Mont, 71 
Freissinieres glen, 169-70 

Small Inn at the Mayor's house at 

the hamlet of Les Ribes 
Frejus, pass and peak, 99 ; Tunnel, 89, 

92-3 

Frema, Balme de la, 14 

Fremamorta, Col de, 15-6 

Frene, Col du, (1) 91, in, 132, (and 

peak) (2) 194, (3) 204 
Freney, Le, 115, 147 

H. de V Europe (Reymond) 
Freres, Trois, 437 ; Mineurs, Col des 

Trois, 81 
Fresnay, glacier and pass, 357 
Fresse, Col de, 245, 274 
Fressinone waterfall, 559 
Freterive, 205 
Fr£tes, Croix des, 247 
Frette, Col de, 247 
Fr6ty, Mont, 365 

Small Inn 
Freydane, Col de, 136 
Frilihorn and pass, 488 
Frioland, Mont, 55, 66 
Froid, Brie, 29, 60, 79, 83 
Froide, Combe, 159-60 
Frolero, Piano, 66 
Fromage, Cols de, 42 
Front, Col du, 274 
Frou tunnel, 194 
Frudiere, Bee and Col de, 532 
Fruit, pass and peak, 237 
Fumo, Colle di Pian, 258 
Furgg glen, 570; joch, 511 
Furgge, 567 
Fuz chalets, 234 



Ga huts, 42-3 

Gabelhorn, Ober, 482, 508 ; Unter, 502 



INDEX 



589 



Gaby, 519 

Alb ergo dei Colli Vecchia e 

Mologna, opened in 1897 
Gaby, Al, 519, 559 
Gaehe forest, 25 
Gaglianico castle, 536 
Gaillarde, Fontaine, 246 
Gaiambra, Col de, 103 
Galibier, Col du, 117-20 ; Roche du 

Grand, 29, 79, 117, 119 
Galise, Col de la, 231, 270, 272, 276-7, 

318 ; Pointe de la, 230, 273, 276-7, 

3i8 

Galmont chalets, 76 
Galoppaz, Pointe de la, 204 
Gampel, 556 

Gamsen, 557 ; valley, 547, 565 
Ganter torrent, 558 
G-ap, 181 

H. de Provence (Blanc) ; H. . du 
Nord (Pelloux) 
Garde, La, 115 
Gardetta chalets, 46 
Gardiner, Breche, and Pic, 117, 166 
Garebre glen, 35 
Garin, Col de, 302 ; Pointe, 30^ 
Gaspard, Breche Maximin, 146 ; Pic, 

i37» 150 
Gassijoch, 490 

Gastaldi, Cresta, 321 ; Punta, (1) 48, 

53> 57 > (2) 471 
Gauchoirs, Les, 138 
Gavet, Combe de, 114 
Gay, pass and peak, 313-4, 321-2 
Gayet glen, 82 

G6ant, Aiguille du, 363, 373 ; Col du, 

3 6 3> 375; glacier, 340, 344, 364-5 
Grants, Marmites des, 255 
Gebidem, 556 

G6broulaz, Col and glacier de, 236 
Geffriand glen, 235 

Gelas, Cima dei, 13 ; di Lourousa, 11 
Gele\ Mont, 443, 449 
Gelon glen, 129 
Gemein Alp chalets, 566 
Gemshorn, 529 

Gen6py, glacier de, 239 ; Rochers de, 

245. 274 
Geneva, 330 ; lake, 332, 549 

H. National, outside the town ; 
H. des Berg ues ; H. de Russie ; H. 
Beau-Rivage ; H. de la MUropole ; 
H. de la Paix ; H. Suisse, and H. 
Terminus, opposite the railway 
station ; and many others 
Genevre, Mont, 27-8, 79-81 

Hospice ; chez Balcet 
GeneVrier, Pointe du, 411 
Genix d'Aoste, St., 196 
H. Labully 



Georges de Commiers, St., 173, 183 
Germagnano bridge, 255, 263 
Germain, St., castle, 299 
Germanasca valley, 67, 71, 75-8 
Germano, San, 71 
Orso 

Gers glen, 397-8, 401 
Gervais, St., 213, 335, 368 ; Mont 
Blanc from, 353, 356 

Etablissement Thermal, rebuilt 
after the ruin in 1892. In the village, 
Mont Joly ; Mont Blanc ; Etrangers 
Gesso glen, 9, 12 
Gets, Col des, 424 
Gex, 332 

H. du Commerce ; H. de la Poste 
Ghigo, 76 

The Waldensian pasteur receives 
travellers 

Giacomo, San, d'Ayas, 515 ; Pass, 73 
Giaglione, 97, 106 
Gialin, Mont, 311 
Giandola, 9 

H. des Etj'angers, good 
Giargiatte glen, 52, 65 
Giaset, Col, 105 
Giasset chalets, 74 
Giaveno, 71-2 
Giavino, Monte, 298 
Gieres, 134, 186 

Many Cafe's 
Giers, Col de, 177 
Giettaz, La, 209, 213 

H. du Col des A r avis 
Gi6troz, Col de, 454 ; glacier, 428, 

441-2 

Giffre valley, 396-7, 400-1 
Gignod, 433 

Gilbert, Col de Mont, 91, 129 
Gimilian, 301, 304 
Gimont, Col de, 80, 84 
Ginanz glen, 489 
Gingolph, St., 420 

Lion d'Or ; Lac 
Ginotin, 204 
Gioberney, Mont, 156 
Giomein, 512 

H. du Mont Cervin, excellent 
Giordan, Col de Pra, 47 
Giordani, Punta, 503, 506, 530 
Giordano, Punta, 471, 513 
Giovanni, San, d'Andorno, 536 ; Col, 
255, 257; glen, o ; Isola di, 562; 
village, 67-8 

At no. 1, Grand Hotel 

At no. 2, small Inns 
Gipes, Col de, 19 
Gippiera, Col della, 36-7, 46 
Girard, Col de, 266 
Girardin, Col, 30, 39-41 



59o 



INDEX 



Giraud-L£zin, Breche, 150 
Girba, Col de, 49, 54 
Girose, Col de la, 148 
Girottaz lake, 214 
Gitte glen, 214, 216 
Giulian, Col, 75 
Giulio, Isola San, 561 
Giuseppe, Rima San, 534 
Glacier, Mont, 309 

Glacier, Col du Grand, (1) 133, (2) 

289, 291 ; Pointe, 133 
Glacieres, 209 

Glaciers, Col des, 378 ; stream 215 
Glaize valley, 224 

Glandon, Col and glen, 91, 126, 32, 232 
Glayza, Grand, 60, 84 
Glaz, Trou du, 188 
Gleisolles, 34 
Gletscher Alp, 544 

Gleyzin chalet, 130 ; Pic, 120, 130, 133 

Gliairetta glacier, 281, 290 

Gliere, Aiguille de la, 348, 407; chalets 

243 ; Col, 409 ; Pointe, 241-2 
Glinettes, Croix de, 215 
Glion, 551 

H. Victoria; H. Rigi Vaudois ; 

H. du Midi ; H. Bellevue ; and others 
Glis, 557 

Glockner, Gross, 306-7 
Gnifetti, pass and peak, 505, 516 
Goiassa, Mont, 298 
Goj huts, 314, 321 
Golese, Col de la, 411 
Golet, Col du, 233 ; Le, 202 
Goletta, pass and peak, 278, 280-1 
Gol£on, Aiguille du, 116, 121 ; Col, 120 
Golliaz, Grand, 433 
Goncelin, 128-9, J %7 

H. Bayard 
Gondo, 559 

Inn 

Gondran, Col du, 81, 85 

Gordolasca, Val, 8, 13 

Gorge, Notre Dame de la, 370 

Gorner glacier, 499-500 ; Grat, 498-9 
On the latter, Restaurant Belve- 
dere (Seiler) 

Gouille a Vassu, 436-7 

Goule Noire, Pont de, 179 

Goulets, Grands, gorges, 179 

At the upper end are several Inns : 
Combet ; Voyageurs ; Grenoblois 

Gouter, Aiguille and Dome du, 350, 356 ; 
ridge, 351-3 

Grachen, 494, 540 

Graffeneire, 444, 446 

Graglia, Sanctuary, 536 

Graines castle, 515 

Graisivaudan valley, 90, 186-9, 197 

Grammont, 421 



Grana, Val, 45, 47 

Grand, Pointe du, 287 

Grandcroux, pass and peak, 304, 314 

Grande, Lago, 56, 62-3 ; Ponte, 526 ; 

Val, (1) 267-8, (2) 533 
At no. 2, Albergo al Pontegrande 
Granero, Monte, 58, 65 
Grange, Pointe de, 422, 425 
Granges Communes, Col des, 21, 34 
Granier, Mont, 186-7, 189-90, 194 ; 

village, 218 
Gras, Praz, 461 

Grat, St., chapels, 289, 291, 301; Col, 

287-8, 291 ; glacier and lakes, 290-1 
Gratelo lake, 247-8 
Grauhaupt, 529 
Grauson glen and huts, 303-4 
Grave, La, 116, 137; Pic, 148 

H. de la Meije (Juge), enlarged, 

and good ; H. des Alpes, smaller 
Gravellona-Toce station, 560 
Grelle, Mont, 185 
Grenairon, 401 ; Col du, 410 
Grenoble, 112-3 

H. Monnet (Trillat), excellent ; 

Grand Hotel (Primat), also good ; 

H. d Angleterre, in the new quarter 

of the town 
Grenzgipfel, 504-5 ; glacier, 504-6, 516 ; 

sattel, 505 
Gr£pon, Aiguille de, 360 
Gresse, 179 

H. du Grand Veymont (Mouttet), fair 
Gressoney, 518 

At St. Jean, H. Delapierre ; H. du 

Mont Rose (Linty); H. Lyskamm 
At La Trinity, H. Thedy 
Between is H. Miravalle, new and 

excellent 
Gresy, (1) 199, (2) 224 

At no. 2, H. de la Treille 
Griaz, La, 337 
Griesseren glacier, 565 
Grimaldi family, 22 
Grimentz, 480, 485-6 

H. des Bees de Bosson 
Grindelwald, 338 
Gris, Puy, in, 113 
Grisanche, Val, 272, 285-6 

At the chief hamlet, L'Eglise, a 

poor Inn. Better one at Fornet, 

higher up 
Grive, Aiguille, 250 

Grivola, 295-6, 301, 304-7, 316; Col, 

Grivoletta, 305 
Gronda, Colle della, 533 
Groscavallo, 268 

Albergo di Groscavallo, frequented 
by families from Turin 



INDEX 



59i 



Grosse, Pierre, chalets, 251 
Grub en, 489 

H. Schwarzhorn, good 
Gruffy, 200, 202 
Griinsee, 500 
Small Inn 
Guercia, Col di, 17, 19, 32 
Guerin, St., chapels, (1) 217, (2) 218 
Gueula, Col de la, 409-410 
Gueydan, Pont de, 22 
Guiers, Mort, 191-2 ; Vif, 188, 192, 

194, 196 
Guil valley, 59-61 
Guillaumes, 23 

Chez Giniez, dirty and poor 
Guillemore gorge, 519 
Guillerme, Pont St., 115, 138 
Guillestre, 39, 61 

H. Imbert, whence starts the chief 

diligence for Abries, fair; H. 

Ferrary (Vedel) 
Guin, pass and peak, 471, 513 
Guisane valley, 79, 110 
Guivra rift, 410 
Gula, La, 538 
Guraglen, 267 
Gurra, La, 226 
Gutarry, La, 209 
Gyr torrent, 153, 162 
Gyronde torrent, 153, 161, 180 
Gys, Pont de, 423 



Habere, Lullin and Poche, 422 
Hamel accident, 352 
Hannibal, 31, 80-1, 104, 106, 254, 
292-3 

Hannig Alp, 494, 540 ; huts, 
Hauderes, 460 

H. du Mont Collon 
Haut de Cry, 555 ; du Col, 210 ; du 

Four, 205 ; du Seuil, 188 ; Pas d'en, 

289 ; Pointe de V, 414 
Haute Luce, 214 

Chez Mollier 
Hautecombe abbey, 185 
Henvieres, Pointe des, 40 
Herbarie"tan, Col de, 129 
Herbetan glen, 188 

Herbetet, chalets, 305, 308, 315 ; Cols 
de 1', 308, 315 ; Mont, 296, 308, 316 

Herbrigen, 495 

H£r£mence valley, 455-6 

HeYens, Col d', 464, 477-8 ; Dent, 470, 
508, 512 ; Val, 457 

Hermance, 418 

Hermattje huts, 501 

Hermillon, 233 

Hery, 212 

Entrie des Voyageurs 



Hiere glen, 191 

Highest village in the Alps, 43, 269 

High Level Route, 427, 451, 468 

Hilaire, St. — St. Nazaire station, 179 

Hirondelies, Col des, 366 

Hohbalen glacier, 546 

Hohlicht, 517 

Hohthaligrat, 500 

Hohwang glacier, 483 

Homme, Bee de 1', 116 ; Clot, glacier, 

163 ; Col, 131 
Hornli, 501 
Hortiere chalets, 99 
Houches, Les, 368 

H. du Glacier 
Houerts, pass and peak, 39-40 
Hiibschhorn, 558 
Huez, 115 

Hugh of Lincoln, St., 187, 192 
Hugon, Chartreuse de St., 126 ; glen, 
130 

Humide, Pierre, 239 
Hunting, 3, 10, 296-7, 314-5, 317, 528 
Hutegg, 540 
Small Inn 



Ignatius, St., Sanctuary, 256 
Ignes, waterfall, 461 
Illgraben, 480 
Illiez, Val, 413-4 

At the village, H. de M on- R epos 
Imfeld, Herr, map by, 330; panorama 

by, 355 
Imseng, Cure\ 540, 545-6 
Inferne" glen, 19 

Infernet, Col de 1', 122 ; fort, 82 
Infernetto, Passo dell', 74 
Inferney gorge, 115 
Inferno valley, 8 
Infranchissable, Col (dit), 377 
Intersile, Colle, 47 
Introd, 282 

Small Inn 
Invergnan, Eec de 1', 281-3 
Invergneux, Col d', 306 
Ippolita Pass, 520 
Isaia, Col, 55, 57 
Ischiator, pass and peak, 20, 32 
Iselle, 559 

H. de la Poste, good 
Iseran, Col d', 220, 222, 226, 228-31 ; 

Mont, 229-32, 270 ; Signal, 228, 

231-2, 264, 273, 276 
Isere, sources of the, 272, 276 ; 

valley, 186-9, I 97, 222-8, 246 ; village 

of Val d', 228, 273-6 

At the latter, H. Moris, good little 

mountain inn, the best headquarters 

in the upper Isere valley 



592 



INDEX 



Ismier, Col de St. , 188 
Isola, 19 

H. Combe, rather better than H. 
d'Isola 
Issert, Ville d\ 385 
Issime, 519 

//. Mont N try (kept by Delapierre 
of Gressoney), opened in 1897 
Issogne castle, 297 
Issora gorge, 172 
Ivrea, 297 

Scudo di Francia, good 
Izouard, Col d\ 84 



Jacques d'Ayas, St.,. 515 ; Tours, 
203 

Jagernetzen rocks, 505 
Jaillet, Col, 209, 213 
Jaillon, 97, 106 
Jallorgues, Col de, 20, 23 
Jallouvre, Pic de, 210 
Jambaz, Col de, 423 
Jandri, 147 

Jardin, 343 ; d'Argentiere, 380 ; du 
Miage, 374 

Jarsy, 202, 204 

Jausiers, 34 

H. du Poulet (Cuzin) 

Jazzi, Cima di, 502, 523-4. . 

Jean Gauthier, Col, 165 ; Gros, Col 
de, 121 ; Rostan, Aiguille de, 40 

Jean, St., d' Arves, 91, 124; d'Arvey, 
203 ; d'Aulph, 424 ; de Belle- 
ville, 234-5 ; de Maurienne, 91 ; 
de la Riviere, 14 ; deSixt and Col, 
209 

At no. 1, chez Grand (near the 
church), poor, but improved 

At no. 2, chez Richard; chez 
Mollens 

At no. 3, Balance; ValUe 
d'Aulph 

At no. 4, chez Bermond 
At no. 5, H. de la Gare (Chape- 
let) ; H. de V Europe; H. St. 
Georges 
At no. 6, bad Inn 
Jeoire, St., 396, 423 

Couronne ; Savoie 
Jeur, Six, 383 
Joanne, Pointe, 51, 59 
Jocelme, Pic, 168 
Joderhorn, 542 

Joly, Col, 215 ; Mont, 212, 368 
Jorasses, Grandes and Petites, 362, 376 
Jorat, 550 ; Col du, 410, 417 
Joseph de Riviere, St., 191 
Joudron glen, 129 
Jouplane, Col de, 424 



Jouvet, Mont, 293 

Joux, Bas, waterfall, 403 ; chalets, 288 ; 
Col, 531 ; Colonne, 293 ; Mont, 293, 
431 ; Plaine, (1) 398, (2) 399, 405 

Jovet, Mont, 225, 240 
Inn near the summit 

Julien, Col, 75 

Julien en Beauchene, St., 182 
Jumeaux, 507 ; de Chaillol, 173 ; de 

Valtournanche, 471, 513 
Jung Pass, 490 
Jungthaljoch, 490 
Jura, 197, 331-2 



Kalpetran, 494 
Kien glacier, 510 
Kinnbriicke, 540 
Kumme, Rothe, 500 



LA, Combe de, 429, 436 

Labouret, Col de, 35 

Lac, Becca du, 287-8 ; Col, 148 ; Plan, 

(1) 139, (2) 244 
Lachat, Mont, 369 
Lachau, Passage de, 421 
Ladro, Passo del, 12 
Laffrey, 174 

H. Cha7'laix 
Laire, Saut du, 171 
Laisonnay, 247 
Laissenant, 228 
Lajet, Colle dei Tre, 258 
Lamet, Mont, 251 

Lance, Grande, d'Allemont and de 

Domene, 136, 187 
Lancebranlette, 293 
Lancey, 135, 187 

H. Grimoux 
Lanchatra glen, 139, 160-1 
Lanchette, Pointe de la, 378 
Landry, 225, 248 
Lange Fluh, 544 
Lanne glen, 125 

Lans, Mont de, glacier and village, 
115, 137, 147-8 ; Villard de, 179 

At the latter, H. de la Poste 
(Imbert) 
Lanslebonrg, 95, 229 

H. Valloire (Alexandre), fair 
Lantosque, 14 

H. des Etrangers, pleasant and 
good little inn 
Lanzo, 255 

Posta ; Europa ; Torino; Albero 
Fiorito 
Lanzo, valleys of, 250-68 
Laquin, glen, 559, 563-7; horn, 547; 
joch, 563 



INDEX 



593 



Larche, 33 ; Col de, 31 

At the village, chez Robert ; chez 
Pinoncely ; chez Donnadieu 
Lareccio, Passo di, 570 
Larizza, Colle, 309 
Latelhorn, 570 

Laugier, Vallon and Col, 39-40 
Lauranoure, Tete de, 139 
Laurent du Pont, St., 191-2 

H. de 1 Europe, good ; H. des 

Princes, tolerable 
Laures, Col des, 303 
Laurichard, Pyramide du, 150 
Laus, Notre Dame du, 181 
Lausanne, 550 

H. Terminus, at the station, good ; 

in the town, H. Gibbon ; H. du 

Faucon ; H. Richemont 
Lauson huts, 78 
Lausson, Pas de, 23 
Lautaret, Col de, 43 ; Col du, 28, 

108, 1 1 1-8, 138 ; Pics de Neige du, 

150 

At no. 2, Hospice and Grand H. 
Bonnabel, good, and admirably 
situated 

Lauvitel glen, 138 ; lake, 139, 161 ; 
Signal, 161 

Laux, Sept, 131 

Chalet-Hotel (kept by Jean 
Baroz) of the Soci^te" des Touristes 
du Dauphin6, fair little mountain inn 

Lauzanier, Col du, 21, 33-4 

Lauze, Col de la, 109, 116, 147-8 

Chalet-Hotel Evariste Chancel 
(kept by the guide Emile Pic), good, 
half way between La Grave and the 
Col, above the Puy Vachier lake 

Lauzes, Col des, 170 

Lauzet, Le, (1) 35, (2) 117 

At no, 1, H. Don; H. de France 
(Dadin) ; H. Miolan 

Lauzette, Col de la, 51 

Lauziere group, 232-3 

Lauzon, Col de, 315 ; glacier, 159 

Laval, Col de, 86, 88 

Lavaldens, 175 

Chez Gilles Porte, rough 

Lavazzero, Passo di, 570 

Lavetiau glacier, 320 

Lavey, La, 159; Col, 157 

Lavey les Bains, 553 
H. des Bains 

Lavina, Punta, 306 

L avoir, 98 

Lazzara, Costa di, 74 
Lechans huts, 270 

L^chaud, Col de, 406-7 ; Pointe de, 

293. 372 
Leger, St., 130 
I. 



Leichenbretter rocks, 511 

Leisse, Colde la, 231, 243, 245 ; stream, 

95. 243-5 
Lemie, 255 

Stella, small 
Lens, Col du, 428 

On it is the Grand H de la Pierre 
d Voir 
Lenta glen, 54, 65, 228 
Leone, Monte, 558-9 
Lep£na glacier, 243 
Lepin, 191, 196 

Chez Berthet (Vve.) 
L6preux, Tour du, 299 
Lesa, 563 

Leschaux, Col de, 201 ; glacier, 340-1, 
366 

Lescheraines, 199, 202 ; bridge, 200, 
202 

At the village, chez Jolly (Hilaire) 
Lesdiguieres, Constable, and castle, 

113, 175, 181-2 
Lestio lake, 53 
Leuk, 556 

At the station, H. de la Souste, good 
Levanna, 251, 265, 267, 269-70, 319 ; 

glacier, 266-7 
L evens, 15 

H. National, good 
Leviona huts, 315 
Lex Blanche, 328, 371 
Liappey huts, 458 
Liddes, 429 

H. du Grand St. Bernard; 
Union ; Angle ter re ; P. Beau-Stjour 
Lieu, Petit, convent, 419 
Lignan, 473 

Small Inn 
Lignarre glen, 175 
Lillianes, 519 
Limone, 5 

Europa ; Posta ; both fairly good 
Lin, Col du, 428 

On it is the Grand H. de la Pierre 
a Voir 
Lindar, Col de, 203 
Lion, Col du, 511 ; couloir, 508 
Lionne couloir, 406 
Lioy, Punta, 471, 513 
Lirec huts, 480 
Lis, Colle del, 256 
Liver ogne, 286, 294 

Cantine du Col du Mo7it 
Livet, 114, 135 

Llvournea, pass and peak, 471, 475-6 
Livron, 182 
Locana, 319 

Corona Grossa ; Tre Pernici / 
Cervo 

Loccie, pass and peak, 497, 528 

QQ 



594 



INDEX 



Lognan, 387 

Small Inn 
Lombard, Col, 120-2 ; glacier, 111, 
121 

Lombarda, Col della, 17, 19, 32 

Lombarde glen, 254 

Lona, Pas de, 485 

Londeniere, Col de, 173 

Longe Borgne, 459 

Longet, Col de, 2, 30, 44 

Longia, Col della, 76 

Lonze, Passo delle, 570 

Loo, Col de, 533 

Loomatten, 532 

Loozoney, Col de, 533, 536 

Loranco glen and peak, 569 

Lorenzo, San, d'Angrogna, 74 ; in Val 

Bognanco, 568 
Lory, Col, 236 ; Pic, 137, 140, 143 
Losa, Bocchetto della, 313, 321; huts, 98 
Lose glen, 267 
Losetta, pass and peak, 51 
Losettes huts, 120 
* Lost Valley,' the, 516 
Lotschenthal, 413 
Loubiere, Villard, 159, 176 
Louch waterfall, 19 

Louie Blanche, pass and peak, 289, 291 
Loup, Col du, du Val Champoteon, 

169; du Valgaudemar, 167 
Lourousa, Gelas di, 11 ; glen, 10- 1 
Lourtier, 440 

Small Restaurant 
Louvie, Col de, 440 
Louza, Col de la, 272, 277 
Louze, Col de la, 217 
Lovenex, Col de, 421 
Loydon, pass and peak, 287, 291 
Luc, St., 479 

H, de la Bella Tola, good ; 
Grand H. du Cervin, new, and larger 
Luca, Col di, 65 
Luce, Haute, 214 

Chez Mollier 
Luceram, 9 
Ludwigshohe, 506 

Luis, Grande, pass and peak, 390, 393 

Luisas, Col, 56, 65 

Luisin, 383, 417 

Lukmanier Pass, 31 

Lune, Col de la, 321 

Lunella, Punta, 256 ; pass, 257 

Lupo, Passo del, 38 

Lus-la-Croix Haute, 178, 182 

Cafe' du Nord, tolerable 
Luseney, pass and peak, 466, 471, 473, 
475 

Luserna, valley and village, 67-8 

In the village, Albergo Belvedere 
Lussert lakes, 303 



Lyndaret chalets, 425 
Lyonnais, old Refuge des, 53, 59 
Lyrerose, Col de, 449, 454 
Lysjoch, 516 ; valley, 493, 518-9 
Lyskamm, 506, 517 



Macagno, Col and glen, 533 
Macheron, 422 
Macot, 225 

Macugnaga, 493, 524 

Monte Moro ; Monte Rosa; Belve- 
dere 

Madame, Combe de, 130-1, 134 
Maddalena, Col and lake, 31, 33 
Madeleine, Col de la, (1) 31, 33, (2) 

86, 88, (3) 91, 232 ; Collet, 69 
Madeleine, La, 117 

Madonna, Caire della, 12 ; Colletta, 17, 
32 

Madre, Isola, 562 
Magdeleine, Collet de la, 229 
Maggiore, Lago, 562-3 
Magland defile, 198, 334 
Magno, San, Sanctuary, 47 
Maira, Val, 44-7 

Maison, Grande, 125 ; du Roi, 61 
Maisonm^ane, 33 
Maisonnasse, 315 

Maisons Blanches, Col des, 430, 444-5 ; 

forestieres, see p. 24 of the text; 

Quatre, 134 
Maistre, Xavier de, 299 
Malaberga, Croce di, 7 
Malanaggio quarries, 71 
Malatra, Col de, 434 
Malaure, Col de, 70 
Malaussene, 22 
Malaval gorge, 115 
Malciaussia chalets, 227 
Maledia, ice-field and Punta, 13 
Malinvern, pass and peak, 16-7, 32 
Malj asset, 30, 37-9 

Chez Ollivier (Jean), tolerable 
Mallet, Mont, 362 
Maloja Pass, 27, 31 
Malpasset, gorge, 276 
Malrif, Col de, 83 
Malsanne torrent, 174 
Malune, La, 23, 25 
Mamelles, Les, 42 
Mamozel, Bois de, 76 
Mancros group, 173 
Mandette chalets, 120 
Maniglia, Dents de, 38, 43 ; village, 77 
Manigod, 209 
Mano, 63 

Manse, Col de, 169 
Manzol, Col, 66 
Marais chalets, 227 



INDEX 



595 



Marassan forest, 60 
Marcel, St., (1) 225, (2) 299 
Marcellin, St., 179 
Marchands, Pas des, 43 
Marches, Les, 90, 187, 189 
Marchet, Grand, 241 
Marcieux, 195 

Margerias, Mont de, 201, 203 
Margheria, Col della, 6 
Margherita, Punta, 470 
Marguareis, Cima, 2, 6 
Marguerite, Ste. , chalets, 289 
Mariande, Col de la, 160 
Mariaud, 24, 35 
Marie, 19 

Marie de Vars, Ste., 39 
Marignier, 334, 396, 423 

H. de la Vallde du Giffre 
Marinet, Col de, 37, 46 
Mariotty sawmill, 384 
Mar lens, 206 

Marines, pass and peak, 176 
Marmora glen, 45, 47 
Mars huts, 456 
Marte, Monte di, 55, 57-8 
Martel, Pierre, 339 
Martellot, Cima, 265 
Martignare, Col de, 122 
Martigny, 554 

H. du Grand St. Bernard, at the 

station, good ; Aigle, at the station ; 

Clerc, good, but dear ; Mont Blanc, 

good 

Martin, Col de St., (1) 14, (2) 76 ; Col 
du Haut, 169; torrent de St., 75, 
77-8 

Martin, St., d'Arve, 335 ; de Belle- 
ville, 235 ; Charvonnex, station, 209; 
de la Cluze, 183 ; d'Entraunes, 
23 ; Pont, 298, 519 ; Vesubie, 13 

At no. 2, chez Rey (Martin). At 
no. 4, H. Roux, new and good. 
At no. 5, Cavallo Bianco, good ; 
Rosa Rossa. At no. 6, H. des Alpes, 
open all the year round ; Pension 
Anglo- Ame'ricai?ie, open in summer 
only 

Martinet, Le, 35 

Martino, Rio, cavern, 54 

Martinsbriicke, 540 

Mary, Col, glen, and peaks, 30, 37, 46 

Marzo, Monte, 298 

Mas de la Grave, Pic du, 122 

Massello valley, 77-8 

Massongex, 421 

Massucco quarries, 537 

Massucone, Monte, 539 

Mastallone, Val, 537-8 

Masures, 285, 292 

Matheysine plain, 174 



Matterhorn, 306, 495, 501, 507-8 ; 

Klein, 512 ; joch, 511 
Mattmark, 541 

Hotel, fair 

Matto, Monte, n 

Mattwaldhorn , 565 

Matze, Col de la, 417 

Maurice, Bourg St., 215-6, 225, 
371 ; en Trieves, 183 ; en Valgaude- 
mar, 159, 176 ; en Vallais, 553 

At no. 1, H. des Voyageurs (Mayet) , 
not good. At no. 4, H. Grisogono, 
good ; H. de la Gare ; Alpes ; Rkvy. 
Restaurant 

Maudit, Mont, 350, 355 

Maudite, Montagne, 350 

Maupas gorge, 125 

Maurienne, the, 90-1, 95, 222 

Maurin, Col and village, 30, 46 

Mauvais Pas, 342 

Mauvoisin, 440 

H. du Glacier de Gidtroz x poor 

Maye, Tete de la, 141 

Mayt, Col La, 82 

M^an-Martin group, 223, 229, 246, 264 
Meane, Roche, 150 
M£dail, M. , 92 
Medico glen, 322-3 
Megeve, 212 

Soleil d'Or, good country inn 
Me'gevette, 423 
Meidassa, Mont, 56, 58, 64-5 
Meiden, Pass, 487 ; hamlet, 489 

H. Schwarzhom, good 
Meije, 116, 137, 141, i43~5- *4 8 i I 5 1 ! 

Breche, 148 
Meillerie, 420 
Meina, Col de, 456 
Meja, Col della, 533 
Melan convent, 396 
Melezet, Piano, 55 ; village, 88, 98 
Melon, Roche, 97, 182, 250-3, 264 ; 

Col, 253 
Meme, St., 194 
Menoge torrent, 422 
Menouve, pass and peak, 430 
Menoux, Col de, 176 
Mens, 174, 177, 183 
Lion d'Or ; Alpes 
Menta, Pierre, 216-7 
Menrnon, 207-8 

Etablissement Thermal ; H. de la 
Vue dti Lac 
Mentone, 9 

Menue, Pierre, 28-9, 89, 100 

Medians, 35 

Mer de Glace, 339-342 

Meraviglie lakes, 8 

Mercantour pass and peak, 4, n, 15 

Mercera, Colle della, 16-7 

QQ 2 



596 



INDEX 



Merciantaira, Punta, 84 
Merdaret, Col du, 131 
Meribe\ Col de, 456 
Meridienne waterfall, 409 
Meris glen, 9, 11, 17 
Merlet, pass and peak, 132-3 
Merlo, Becca del, 474 
Meschie bridge, 262, 268 
Mescla, La, 18, 21 
Mesoncles, Col de, 301, 315 
Mettelhorn, 502 
Mexicans, 34 
Meyronnes, 34 

H. Jean, good 
Mezzenile, Count Louis de, 250, 252 ; 

Punta, 265 ; village, 263 
Miage, Col de, 378 ; Dome de, 377; 

glacier de, 372-3, 378 ; Jardin du, 374 
Miceau, Grand, 91 
Michel, Roche, 251 
Michel, San, Colle, 46 
Michel, St , Colle, 24 ; de la 

Cluse monastery, 94, 263, 338 ; de 

Maurienne, 92 
At the latter, H. de V Union, fair ; 

H. des Alpes, whence starts the break 

for the Col du Galibier 
Michelis, Punta, 65 

Midi, Aiguille du, 360 ; Col du, 354 ; 

Dent du, 384, 413-7 
Miejour, Tete de, 37 
Millon, Tete de, 481 
Mine\ Mont, glacier, 464, 477 
Miniera valley, 7-8 
Mirabouc fort. 69 
Mirandol, Col de, 34 
Mirantin, Mont de, 213 
Miravidi, Mont, 293 
Mischabelhorner, 509, 542-3 ; joch-s 544 
MiseYicorde, Pas de la, 190 
Mittaghorn, 543 
Mittel, pass and peak, 569 
Mizoen, 123 

Moanda, Bocchetta, 533 
Moccand, Croix, 409 
Modane, 92, 97 

H. International, good ; the 

owner (M. Montaz) manages also 

the Chalet-Hotel at Bonneval sur Arc 
Moede chalets, 404-5 
Moine, Aiguille du, 362 ; Le, 430, 446 
Moiry, Col, glacier, and vallev, 480, 

485-6 
Moises, Col des, 422 
Molaretto, (1) 97, (2) 106 
Mole, the, 333, 396, 423 
Molines en Champsaur, 173 ; en 

Queyras, 43, 52 
At no. 2, chez Bel! on ; chez 

Mathieu 



Mcllia, 521 

Albergo Valsesiano 
Mollieres glen, 16, 19 
Mologna passes, 533, 536 
Morning pass and peak, 483-4 ; Roth- 
horn, 482 
Mompantero, 97, 253 
Monciair, pass and peak, 322 
Moncorve\ Col and glacier, 296, 
320-2 

Mondelli Pass, 526, 541 
Mondrone, Gorgia di, 262 ; Uja, 
258, 262 ; village, 262 
At the latter, poor In?i 
\ Monei, chalets, 305, 308, 312 ; Col, 
312 ; Coupe\ 313 ; glacier, 295 ; 
Tete, 313 
Monestier de Clermont, 183 

H. de la Gare ; H. du Lio?i d' Or 
Monetier les Bains, 117, 137; 
glacier, 165 

H. de 1' Europe (Izoard), fair ; H. 
des Voyageurs (Alliey), larger 
; Mongioire Pass, 257 
I Mongellafrey, 232 
Monges, Col des, 34, 46 
Mongrando, 535 
Monnetier-Mornex, 332-3 

H. Bellevite, near the station, 
good; H. Beau Site; Ecu de 
Savoie ; Chateau de Mo?inetier ; 
Re co n ?i a issa n ce 
Monnier, Mont, 2, 18-9, 22-3 
Monsieur, Plan de, 234 
Mont, pass and peak, 283-6 
Monta, La, 59, 69 

A?icienne Auberge, uninviting 
aspect 

I Montagnaia, pass and peak, 475 
Montague, Grande, glen, 98 
Montagny. 200 
Montalto castle, 298 
Montana, 556 

H. d?i Pare (at Crans-sur-Sierre), 
excellent 
Montandayne' glacier, 296, 320 
Montandrey, Notre Dame de, 233 
Montbonnot, 188 
Montcharvet gorge, 241 
Montdauphin, 61, 180 

H. de la Gare (Court) 
Mont£e du Fond, Col de la, 236 
1 Montenvers, 337, 340 
Hotel, excellent 
Monterosso, 47 
Montet, Col du, 271 
Montets, Col des, 382; Grands, pass 

and peak, 342 
Montette chalets, 82 
I Montferrat hills, 44, 310 



INDEX 



597 



Monthey, 421 

Croix oVOr, or Postes ; Cerf 
Monthieux, Col de, 398 
Montjoie valley, 369 
Montjovet castle, 299 
Montmaur, 177, 182 
Montmayeur castle, 286 
Montmelian, 90, 187 

Buffet ; Gare; Berthier ; Chavoz 
Montmin glen, 206 
Montreux, 551 

H. National ; H. Continental ; 
H. des Alfies ; Grand Hotel; H. 
Breuer ; P. Visinand] and very 
many others 
Moxitriond, 425 

Pnn 

Montvatezan sur S£ez, 250 
Monveso di Forzo, 311 
Morel torrent, 233 
Morelle glen, 69 
Moretel, 129 
Morge river, 555 
Morges, 550 

Mont Blanc ; Port ; Couronne 
Morgex, 294 

Chene Vert ; Angelo 
Morghen, 526, 541 
Margins, 414 ; Pas de, 425 

H. des Bains, large ; H. du Chalet ; 
H. de M or gins 
Morgon, 181 
Morillon, 398 

Morion, glen and pass, 288, 290 
Moro, Monte, 493, 541-2 ; Pizzo del, 
538 

Mort, Mont, 432 

Morte, Eau, valley, 197, 206 

Morte, La, 114 

Chalet-Hotel, built by the Soci^te" 
des Touristes du Dauphine" 
Morti, Piano dei, 99 
Morts, Vallon des, 73 
Morzine, 411, 424-6 

H. des Alpes 
Mosso Santa Maria, and Valle, 537 
Mottarone, Monte, 561 

Excellent Inn (Gugliehnina) on the 
summit 

Motte, Grande, 222, 241, 243,245, 276 
Motte, La, chalets, (1) 87, (2) 238, 
(3) 285 

Motte les Bains, La, 174 

Etablissement in the old castle ; 
H. du Bois 
Mottets, 371 

Inn (Vve. Fort), fair 
Mottone, Passo del, 570 
Moucherotte, 112 
Moud, Col de, 534 



Moulin Vieux, 175 
Mouliniere, Pic de la, 87 
Mountet, 481 

Constantia mountain inn, fair 
Mourin, 429-30, 436 
Mourre, Froid, 171 ; Gros, 24 
Mourti, Pointes de, 477 
Moutiere, Col de la, 21 
Moutiers Tarentaise, 217, 224 

H. de la Couronne (Vizioz), fair ; 

Courriers (Bertoli) 
Mouxy, 184 
Moyse, Tete de, 33 
Muande, Col de la, and peak, 157-9 
Muande, Col delle, 88 
Miihlebach glen, 489 ; ravine, 494 
Mule, Pas de la, 21, 33 
Mulets, G-rands, 354 

Inn, dear 
Mulinet, Roc du, 265 
Mulo, Col del, 31, 45, 47 
Mura, Escaliers de la, 147 
Murailles Grandes, pass and peaks, 

470-1 

Muraillette, Tete de la, 138-9 
Mure, La, 173-4, 183 

H. Pelloux ; H. du Nord (Brachon), 

H. de la Gare 
Murith, M., 426, 428, 437 
Muscera Pass, 567-8 
Mussa Plain, 260 
Small Cantine 
Muzelle, Col de la, 161 ; Roche, 137, 

147, 161 

Myans, Abimes de, 90, 186-7, ^9 
Myst£rieuses, Gorges, 381, 383 



Nadelgrat, 509, 546 ; horn, 547 ; 

joch, 542 
Nantet, Col du, 207, 209 
Nantillons glacier, 345, 360 
Nants, Deux, 234 

Nants, Entre Deux, (1) 248-9, (2) 401 

Nants glen, 239, 242 

Napoleon, 298, 429, 431 

Naressa pastures, 260 

Narreyroux glen, 162 

Nase, 517 

Nasta, Cima di, n 

Naves, Grand, 217 

Navettes, Col and glen, 172-3 

Navigenze glen, 479-80 

Naye, Rochers de, 551 

NerT, Felix, 84, 170; Pic, 168, 170 

Neige, Cret de la, 332 ; Pic de, Cordier, 

164-5 I Pi° s d e > du Lautaret, 150 
Neiron, Grand, Col and glacier, 316, 

320 

Nendaz glen, 440 



59 8 



INDEX 



Nera, Becca, 287 ; Comba, 69; Punta, 

(1)98, (2)305 
Neri, Mont, 519, 532 
Nero, Monte, 313 
Netschio glen, 517 
Neutralised Savoy, 198-9 
Neuvaz, Aiguille de la, 389 ; Col, 393 ; 

glacier, 390 
Nevache, and valley, 85 

At the Ville Haute, chez Faure 

(Antoine), fair ; at the Ville Basse, 

chez Balcet (Vve.), and chez Ros- 

toland 

Nevi de la Rossa, Col des, 429, 436 
Nice, 9 

H. Terminus ;H. des Etr angers ; 
both open all the year round 
Nicholas, St., de la Chapelle, 212 ; de 

VeYoce, 369 ; plain, 96-7 
Niera, Col della, 50 
Niklaus, St., 494 

Grand Hotel (Zumofen), good ; H. 
Loch??iatter, smaller 
Niouc, 479 

Nivolet, Col de, 270, 277, 295, 316-8 ; 
Dent du, 184, 186, 203 

Nizier, St., 112 

A uberge du Moucherotte 

Noasca, 519 

H. Royal, a ddpendance of the 
Grand Hotel at Ceresole Reale 

Noaschetta, Becca di, 304, 314, 321 ; 
glacier, 296, 315, 319, 321 

Noir, Cheval, 232 ; Glacier, 154 ; 
Grand Roc, 229, 264 ; Lac, 147 ; Roc, 
482 ; Tour and passes, 389-90 

Noire, Aiguille and Col, 86, 119 ; 
Barre, 152 ; Col La, 42 ; Eau, 382, 
410, 418 ; Foret, 241, 247 ; Pointe, 
de Pormenaz, 404 ; Pont de Goule, 
179; Roche, 271; Tete, (1) 382, (2)401 
On the T£te Noire (1), good Inn 

Noires, Col des Raves, 305 

Nom glen, 209 

Nomenon, Grand, glen, 300-1 ; peak, 

295-6, 300, 315 
Nona, Becca di, 295, 302 
Nonai glen, 534 
Nord End, 505 
Norma, Signal de la, 92 
Nouva, Col della, 310 
Novalaise, 195 
Novalesa, 96 ; Col, 253 
Novara, 522, 562 
Novel, 420 

H. de la Dent d'Oche 
Noyer, Col du, 77 ; valley, 201, 203 
Nubiera, Col della, 46 
Nus, 299 ; Ville de, 473 

At the former, Croce d'Oro 



Nyon, 550 

H. Beau Rivage ; H. du Lac ; both 
on the edge of the lake ; Ange, in the 
town ; H. du Jura, opposite the sta- 
tion 



Obiou, 177 

Observatories, 18, 22, 355 

Oche, Bocchetta delle, 298 ; Dent d', 

395, 420, 425 
CEillette, the, 192 
Oex, 334 

Ofenthal Pass, 571 

Offenge, St., 200 

Oin, pass and peak, 271-2 

Oisans, Bourg d', 114, 138 

Grand Hotel de V Oisans, good ; 
H. de 1' Oberland Francais (Primat), 
opposite the station, also good ; H. 
de F?'ance ; H. de Mila?i ; H. Ra?nel 

Oiseau, Bel, 383 

Olan, Aiguille d', 160; Breche, 146, 
160 ; Pic, 137, 145, 158, 160, 176 

Olen, Col d', 529 

Excellent mountain Inn (Gugliel- 
mina) near the summit 

Olle glen, 125-6 

Ollomont, 443 

Olmetti, Madonna degli, 255 
Olocchia, Val, 534, 538 
Omegna, 539, 560 

Croce Bianca ; Post a 
Ometto, Col dell', 258 
Oncino, 54 
Onde, 162 

Ondezana, pass and peak, 31 1-2 
Onion, 423 
Orchetta Pass, 538 
Orcieres, 171 ; Col d', 170 

H. de 1' Union (Chevallier), tolerable 
Oreo valley, 318-9 
Oren, Col d', 451 
Orfano, Mont', 562 
Orgeval, Col d', 205 
Ormelune, 226, 284 
Ormente torrent, 216 
Omavasso, 560 

Italia ; Croce Bianca ; San Carlo 
Ornon, Col d', (1) 123, 127, (2) 174-5 I 

village, 114 
Orny, Col, glacier, and peak, 391-2 
Oronaye, glen and peak, 33-4 
Oropa, 536 ; Col della Barma, 519, 536 
Orsieres, 429 

H. des Alpes, poor 
Orta, and lake, 560-1 

San Giulio ; Leon d'Oro; Orta; 

Garibaldi, at the station ; Belve'dere, 

above the town 



INDEX 



599 



Orti, Col degli, 298 
Ortiga, Col dell', 32, 47 
Orvieille, 317 

Ossola, Domo d% 560 ; Villa d', 560, 
570- 1 

At the former, H. de la Ville or de 
la Poste, good ; H. d'Espagne 
Otanes, Col des, 429, 441, 445 
Otemma, Col d\ 450; glacier, 426, 

449-52 ; Pointe, 448 
Otro glen, 530 
Ouchy, 550 

H. Beau Rivage, very good ; H. 
du Chateau ; H. d Angleterre 
Oulaz, Golette de 1', 412-3 
Oules, Casse des, 85 
Oulx, 80, 94 ; Sauze d', 73 

At the former, Alpi Cozie, fair; 
Lion d'Or 
Ours huts, 306 ; Tour St. , 313 
Oursiere, Cascade de V, 134-5 

Two small Inns, one a ddpetidance 
of that at La Pra, the other newer 
Ouzon, Mont, 423 
Ovarda, Torre d', 255, 258, 262 
Ovesca valley, 570 
Oyace, 466 

Cantine 
Oyen, St., 433 
Oz, 126 

Chez Genevois 



Paccard, Dr., 351-2 ; Mont, 368 
Paesana, 53 

Gallo ; Rosa Rossa 
Pagarin, Passo del, 12 
Paillon torrent, 9 
Pal, Col de, 20, 23 
Palere precipice, 122 
Palet, Col du, 247-8 
Paletta, Passo di, 434 
Pallon, 169 
Palluel lake, 170 
Palu, Cime de la, 14 
Palud, La, 114, 175 
Pancrasse, St., 188 

Chez Dubois 
Panestrel, pass and peak, 30, 37-8, 40 
Panosseyre, Col de, 429-30 
Paquier, torrent, 246 ; village, 513 

At the latter, H. du Mont Rose, 
good 

Paradis, Grand, 220, 295-6, 307-8, 
320-1 ; Col du Grand, 321 ; Petit, 
296 ; Col du Petit, 307 ; Roc du, 
320 

Paramont, Mont, 287, 219 

Pare, Col de la, 87 

Parei, Granta, 275-6, 278, 281 



Paresseux, Col des, 416 
Parieres group, 172 
Paris, Plateau de, 116 

Small Inn 
Parmelan, 209 

Small Inn, near the summit 
Paroird lake, 87 
Parpaillon, Col de, 34 
Parrach6e, Dent, 222, 238, 241 
Parrotspitze, 506 
Pasch'et, Colle, 258 
Passage, Ancien, 352, 354 
Passet, Gros, 78 
Passy, 336, 399 
Patience, Bee de la, 313 
Patri, 296, 313 
Paul sur TJbaye, St., 36 

H. Hellion, good 
*Paumont, Pointe de, 100 
Paur, Passo del, 17, 32 
Paute-Ornon, La, station, 114, 175 
Pauvres, Col des, 445 
Pave\ and Col, 137, 149 
Pays, M. Le, 339 
Peas, Col de, 84 
Peccoz, Baron, 518 
P£clet, pass and peak, 223, 235-7 
P£cloz peak, 199, 201, 205 
Peines glen, 176 
Peira Cava, 9 

H. Bellevue (Faraut) 
Peisey glen, 225, 248 

At the village, H. Collin, fair 
Pelat, Mont, 2, 23, 25 
Pelens, Aiguilles de, 23 
Pelerins, hamlet and waterfall, 336 
Pelissier, Pont, 336 
Pella, 537 

Albergo del Pesce 
Pellafol, 177 

Pellice, Torre, and Val, 67-70 

H. de VOurs, good 
Pellys, Les, 401 

Pelouse, Col de, (1) 21, (2) 99 ; Pointe, 

398, 402 
Pelvas, Tete du, 60, 70 
Pelvat, Pic du, 20, 38, 43 
Pelvaux, Rocs du, 244 
Pelvoux group, 61, 108, 136-7* 146 ; 

Mont, 109, 137, 152, 163, 166 ; Petit, 

and Trois Dents, 163 
Pennines, 326-8 
Peone, 22-3 

Inn, poor 
P£ou, Roc, 30, 38, 41 
Pepino hillock, 7 
Perce\ Mont, 437 

Perc6e du Reposoir, Pointe, 211, 335 
Perche, Col de la, 129 
Perci, Mare, 322 



6oo 



INDEX 



Percia, pass and peak, 317 
Perdu, Col, 85 
Perduto, Colle, 319 
Perebecche, 312, 319 
PeYiades, 363 
P^rier, Le, 175 

Chez Si and 
Perosa Argentina, 71 

H. National, good ; Sole 
Perouse, Guillaume, commune, 158 
Perquelin ravine, 188 
Perrant, Col, 124 
Perrero, 75 

Caccia Re ale ; Rosa Ross a 
Perrignier, 419 
Perroc, Dent, 462, 477 
Pers, pass and peak, 228, 264 
Pescatori, Isola dei, 562 
Pesio, 6 

Stabilimento , excellent 
Peson ravine, 316 
Pessinetto, 263 

Pace ; Primavera 
Pestarena, 526 

Alpi ; Miniere 
P^teret, Aiguilles Blanche and Noire 

de > 357> 37i» 376 
Petit, pass and peak, 287, 291 
Petriolo huts, 525, 528 
Peulaz huts, 386 

Peyron lake, 88 ; Pic du Clapier du, 161 
Pfin, 556 

Piagu, Cime de, 14, 16 

Pianche, 32 

Pianprato, 309 

Piantonetto valley, 312 

Piasco, 49 

Piazzette, 256 

Pic, Emile, Col, 164 

Piccola, Colle della, (1) 268, (2) 536; 

Val, 533 
Picheru, Pointe de, 275 
Piece, Col de, 452 ; glacier, 461 
Piedicavallo, 536 

Albergo della Mologna 
Piedimulera, 527, 560 

Corona ; Piedimulera 
Pierascritta, Colle di, 269 
Pierre, St., d'Alfoigny, 90, 223 ; de 

Belleville, 129 ; Bourg, 429 ; castle, 

295 ; de Chartreuse, 188, 193 ; 

Chat el, 196 ; d'Entremont, 188, 

194 ; d'Extravache, 101 ; Pont, 192 ; 

torrent, 101, 162 ; Tour, 308, 312-5 
At no. i, H, Font ana ; H. Fon- 

tanus. 

At no. 3, Dejeuner de NapoUon> fair 
At no. 5, H. Victoria; B. du 

Desert 

At no. 7, H. Mollard y good . 



Pierre, Col de la, 132 

Pietro in Schieranco, San, 570 

A Ibergo delle Mi fie d' Oro d'Antrofia 
(Raffini) 
Piglimo, Col de, 533 
Pignerol, 49, 68 

Campana ; Cannon d'oro 
Pila, Col de, 305 

Pilatte, Col de la, 155, 167 ; glacier, 

140-1, 145, 153-4 
Pile Alp, 520, 531 
Pinasca, 71 

Cappel Verde 
Pinier, Grand, 170 
Pinsot, 130, 133 
Pinterjoch, 529 

Piode glacier and pass, 520 ; village, 
52i 

Pisonet, Mont, 474 
Pissa, Cima della, 497, 520 
Pisse, Col de la Haute, 160; Colle 
delle, 530; waterfall, (1) 41, (2) 115, 

(3) 5 2 ° 
Pisset, Col du, 246 

Pissevache, stream, 408, 417, 554 ; 

waterfall, 520 
Pissevieille glen, 249 
Pissou waterfall, 130 
Piz, Col du, 78 
Pizzanco, 568 
Placette, Col de la, 190 
Plagne lake, (1) 240, (2) 247 
Plagnetta, Col and glen, 86 
Plan, Aiguille du, 360 ; chalets, 100-2 ; 

de 1' Aiguille, 345 
On no. 3, small Inn 
Planais, Les, 101-2 
Planards, Col des, 435 
Planaval, castle and plain, 285, 290 ; 

col, 287-8, 290 
Planay huts, 214 
Plancherine, 205-6 
Planereuse, pass and peak, 393-4 
Planey terrace, 233 
Planpalais, Col de, 198, 202-3 
Planpinet, 85 ; Col des Echelles de, 79, 

87 

Planpizet, Col de, 291 
Planpraz, 346 

Inn 

Plan ton, Col de, 21 
Plantrin, Col de, 247 
Plaret, 142 

Plassas, Rocher de, 242 

Plat, Aiguille du, 139-40 

Plate\ Desert, Escaliers and Pointe, 

397-400 
Plateau, Grand and Petit, 354 
Platiere, Col de la, 91, 233 
Platter, Thomas, 494 



INDEX 



60 1 



Plete\ Motta di, 512 
Pleureur, Mont, 441, 449, 456 
Pleureuse waterfall, 400 
Plines, pass and peak, 385, 392 
Plumatt, 480 

Po, sources, 45, 56, 63 ; valley, 44, 
53-8 

Pococke, Dr., 339, 341 

Pointes, Col des Trois, 120; Cinq, 

128-9 
Politri, Mont, 72, 78 
Pointue, Pierre, 345, 353 
Inn 

Pollux, 507, 515 

Polset, Aiguille de, 223, 235, 237, 

241-2 ; col, 236 ; glen, 238 
Pomaray, 194 

Au Rendezvous des Chasseurs 
Pomaretto, 75 
Pome\ 76 
Pons, St. , 35 

Ponsonniere, Col de la, 117, 119 
Pont Canavese, 319 ; de Beau- 

voisin, 195-6 ; en Hcyans, 179 ; 

St. Martin, 298, 519 ; in Val 

Savaranche, 317 

At no. 1, Corona Grossa ; Valentino 
At no. 2, Poste ; Cours ; Commerce 
At no. 3, H. Bonnard ; H. de la 

Truite Fraiche 
At no. 4, Cavallo Bianco ; Rosa 

Rossa 

At no. 5, H. de la Grivola (Dayn£), 
new 

Pontcellamot, 214, 217 
Pontcharra, 128, 187 

Do?nenjon ; Voyageurs 
Ponte Grande, 526 

Albergo al Pontegrande 
Pontimia Pass, 567 
Pontis, Col de, 35 
Ponton, Sasse de, chalets, 284 
Ponts, Les, 343 

Porco, Col del Colour del, 55, 57 
Pormenaz, Pointe Noire de, 404 
Porsel, Col, 66 
Porta, Colle della, 323 
Portalet, 385, 392 

Porte, Croix de la, 397, 402 ; Col de, 

193 ; Pas de la, 189 
Porte, Col delle, 66 ; village, 71 
Portetta, Col de la, 136 
Portettaz, Dent, 242 ; pass, 400 
Portette, Col delle, 16 
Portia, Colli della, 256-7 
Portiolette, Col de la, 34 
Portjengrat, 547, 566 ; pass, 569 
Portola, Col de, 428 
Pourri, Col du, 226, 249 ; Mont, 225-7, 

248-50, 285, 292, 370 



Pourriac, Col de, 21, 33 - ■ 
Pourrie, Aiguille, 409 
Pourrieres, 73 
Poursollet lake, 114 
Pousset, pass and peak, 304-6 
Pousterle, Col de la, 169-70 
Poyaz, La, 382, 407 
Pozzoli range, 570 

Pi- a, Chiabott*. del, 66, 69; Colle 
•del, 298; del Torn o, 74 ; Giordan, 
Col de, 47 ; Grand, 274 ; La, 135 ; 
Le, 21 

At no. 1, good little mountain Inn 
At no. 6, Chalet-Ho:eI } built by the 
Isere Section of the French Alpine 
Club, and kept by Couttet ;. good 
little mountain inn 

At no. 7, Auberge de la Gaieti 
(Madame Martin), simple 
Prabarno, Col de, 200 
Pradleves, 47 

Angelo, very fair 
Praforito, Colle di, 269 
! Pragelas, 73 

Small Inns 
I Pralaire, Pointe de, 41.9 . 
j Prali, and Col, 75-6 . 

The Waldensian pasieur at the 
hamlet of Ghigo receives strangers 
Pralognan, 241 ; Mont Blanc de, 242 
H. de la Grande Casse et du 
Petit Mont Blanc \ (Rolland), new 
and excellent ; H. .de la Vanoise 
(Favre), now not good 
Pralong, 210 
Small Inn 
Pramollo, 71 
Prangins castle, 550 
Prapic, 171 
Praraye, 466-7 

Small mountain In?i, poor; another 
built by the Cure" of Bionaz 
Prarion, (1) 276, (2) 368 

Inn near no. 2 
Pravourey lake, 114 
Praz de Fort, 386, 393 
Prazfleury, Col de, 456. 
Prazzo, 45 

Scudo di Francia, fair 
Pre* de Bar chalets, 386 ; glacier, 390 
Preja Pass, 569 

Prelles, Col de, 170 ; station, 180 
Pr£mol, Chartreuse and Col, 134-5 
Pre'mou glen, 240, 247 
Prequartera, 526 

Pr6s, Col des, 203 ; les Fonds, Pic des, 
118 ; Nouveaux, Col des, 123 ; Val 
des, 85 

Presset, 216 

Pressins, 195 



602 



INDEX 



Prestino, 568 

Grande Albcrgo Bognanco 
Preterier huts, 473 
Preveyre, Val, 60, 70 
Prioux chalets, 242 
Prise Nouvelle, 213 
Proveysieux, 194 

A uberge des Grands Gouziers 
Proz, Cantine de, 430 

Small mountain Inn 
Prunieres, 35, 181 
Pucelle, Saut de la, 116 
Puget Theniers, 22 

H. de la Croix de Malte 
Pugnet grotto, 263 

Puiseux, M. , 163, 503-4; Pointe, 163; 

Refuge, 155, 163 
Pyramide, Col de la, 127 ; of Pelvoux, 

162 ; Pic de la, 131 



Quarazza, Val, 531 
Quarna, 539 

Quart, Alp, 275 ; castle, 299 ; Cime, 

273, 278-9 ; Pont, 439 
Quatre Seigneurs, Montagne des, 134 
Quec^es de Tignes, 245 
Queige, 213 

Small Inn 
Queyras, Chateau., 60 

H. des Voyage urs (We. Boue), 
good ; H. Puy-Cot, fair 
Queyrellin glen, 86 
Quirlies, Col des, 124, 127-8 



Rabious glen, 171 
Rabuons, peak and lakes, 20 
Rachais, Mont, 112 
Bame, Roche de, 180 

H. Reymond 
Banda, 495 

H. VVeisskorn, very good 
Randoliera glen, 62 
Ranzola, Col de la, 531 
Raron, 556 
Rassa glen, 533, 536 
Rateau, pass and peak, 147-9 
Raus, Col de, 8 
Ravine, La, 119-20 
Ravix farmhouse, 112 
Rayes Noires, Col des, 305 
Be, Piano del, 55 

Albergo Alpino (Genre), tolerable 
mountain inn, and civil people 
Reale, Col deila, 309 
R£allon, Col and glen, 171, 181 
Rechasse, Pointe de la, 242 
Rechy gorge, 485 
Recluse glen, 292 



Recoin gorge, 135 
Reculet, 332 
Redessau, Mont, 471-3 
Regina, Punta della, 532 
Reine, Ste., gien, 204 
Bemy, St., (1), 91, 130, 132, (2) 432; 
Col, 434 

At no. 2, H. des Alpes Pennines, 
fair 
Renens, 550 

Renod, pass and peak, 236 

Replat, Tetes du, 148 

Beposoir, Chartreuse du, glen, 

210-1 ; Pointe Perc6e, 211, 325 
Small Inn at Pralong, near the 
Convent 
Reuse d'Arolla, Col de la, 451 
Bevard, Grand, 184 

2 Hotels on the summit 
Bevel, 135 

Chez Liaud, tolerable ; chez Ar- 
naud, bad 
Bevello, 53 

Post a ; Giardino ; Tre Re 
Revielle chalets, 227, 284 
Rey, Crete du, 217 
j Reymond, Villard, 115 
! Reyssole gorge, 36 
j Reyvroz, 423 

; Bhemes, Col and glacier de, 278-9 ; 
Notre Dame de, 281 ; valley, 272, 
281 

At Notre Dame there is a small 
and poor Cantine, while the Cure is 
willing to receive travellers 

Rhone valley, 331, 420-1 

Ribel, 364 

Bibes, Les, 170 

Inn at the Mayor's house 

Ribon glen, 251-2 ; Pic, 253 

Richardiere, La, 178 

Riclaretto, 74-5 

Ried Pass, 546 

Riedmatten, Col de, 455, 457 

Rieublanc huts, 120-1 

Rif du Sap, 159 ; Pic and ravine, 
165-6 

BiffeL Alp, and Biffelberg, 498-9 
At the former a very large Hotel ; 
at the latter a smaller and simpler 
Hotel ; both very well kept by the 
Seiler family 
Riffelhorn, 498-501 
Bima, 493, 535 ; Col, 533 

Albergo Tagliaferro, good 
Bimasco, 533 

Inn, fair, though rough 
Bimella, 538-9 

Albergo delle Alpi (Fontana), fair, 
but not cheap 



INDEX 



603 



Rimpfischhorn, 510, 545 
Rimplas, 19 

Rioubel torrent, 39-40, 61 
Rioubrigoud bridge, 194 
Riouperoux, 114 

Ripa torrent, 67-8, 73, 77, 79, 82 
Ripaille, 419 

Riparia, Dora, 67-8, 73, 77, 79-80, 94 

Riss, Pas de, 421, 425 

Risse valley, 423 

Rissuolo Pass, 530 

Ristolas, 59 ; Col de. 51 

Ritord, 430 

Ritort chalets, 238-9 

Rivarolo, 319 

Biva Valdobbia, 521 

Albergo delle Alpi (Guglielmina), 
good 

Bivier d'Allemont, 125, 132 

Chez Sert (Ferreol) 
Riviere torrent, 60, 84 
Robert, Lacs, 135 
Roburent, Col de, 33 
Roccasparvera, 31 
Roc, Ponte del, 255 
Rocce huts, 270, 318 
Roccias huts, 76 

Boche, Beranger, La, 135 ; de Kame, 
180 ; des Arnauds, 182 ; Pas de la, 
234 ; sur Foron, 333 

At no. i, Chalet-Hotel, built by 
the Soci^te" des Touristes du 
Dauphine" 
At no. 2, H. Reymond 
At no. 5, Croix Blanche ; Grcnette ; 
Balances 
Rochebrune, 29, 79, 84, 119 
Rochechinard castle, 125 
Rochefort, Aiguille de, 363 
Rochefoucauld-D'Enville, Duke de la, 

339 H ' 

Rochemelon, 97, 182, 250-3, 264 ; Col, 
253 

Bochemolles, 100 

Rough little Inn 
Rochere, Grande, 375-6, 433 
Roches, Col des, (1), 229, 246, (2), 249 
Rochetaill^e, 114, 132 
Bochette, La, (1) 129, (2) 419 

At no. i, Chez Blanch in; chez 

Falquet 
Rocheure, Col de la, 245-6 
Rochilles, Col des, 86, 119 
Rodoretto, and Col, 76-7 
' Roese,' 306, 451, 503, 511 
Rognon, Petit, 364 
Rognons, Col de, 169-70 
Rognosa, Col della, 102 ; d'Etache, 

29, 89, 1 01-2 ; de Sestrieres, 29, 67 

73 



Boi, Maison du, 61 

Inn 

Roisebanque, 306 

Roisonne glen, 175 

Roja valley, (1)4, 9, (2) 19-20 

Roletta, Mont, 317 

Bolle, 550 

Tete Noire ; Croix Fide" rale ; 
Buffet 
Rolletta, 381 

Romanche valley, 113-7, 138, 146, 149, 

156, 162, 183 
BomagnarLO, 522 

Posta 

Romean, Colombano, 103 
Ronce, Pointe de, 229, 251, 264 
Bonco, 310-1 

Albergo della Regina 
Ronde, Tour, pass and peak, 367, 376 
Boquebilliere, 14 

H. de Fra?ice, bad 
Rora, 66 

Rosa, Monte, peaks of, 497, 503-6, 
525-6, 560-1 ; range of, 491-2, 
54 1 " 2 

Rosa Blanche, Pointe de, 440, 456 

Roselend, glen and pass, 215 

Rosets chalets, 233 

Rosolin glacier, 243 

Rossa, Becca Costa, 6 ; Cima della 

Rocca, 20 ; Croce, 257, 259-60, 264 ; 

Guglia, 87 ; Lago, 257 ; Col des 

N6vi de la, 429, 436 ; Punta, 305 
Rossane, Dent de, 200 
Rossbodenhorn and -joch, 559, 564-5 
Rosses, Dents des, 477 
Rosset, Col, 317 
Rotarius d'Asti, 252 
Rothhom, Ober and Unter, 502 ; Pass, 

564 ; Zinal, 482, 508-9 
Roua, Col de la, 22 
Roubion glen, 19 
Roue, Colde la, 98 

Rouge, Aiguille, (1) 87, (2) 250; Col, 
237-8 ; Muraille, Col de la, 310 ; 
Col du Mont, 454 ; Col de la Coste, 
154; Mont, d'Arolla, 461; Mont, 
de Gi^troz, 454 ; Roc, 291 

Rouges, Aiguilles, d'Arolla, 456, 463 ; 
Aiguilles, de Chamonix, 348, 407 ; 
Aiguilles, du Dolent, 389 ; Crete 
des Boeufs, 154, 167 ; Col des Eaux, 
310 ; Rochers, 352, 354 ; Col des 
Terres, 84 

Rouget, Tete du, 145 ; waterfall, 402 

Roui glen, 44 

Rouies, peak and pass, 137, 142, 157 
Rous, Passo del, 74 
Rouss, Mont, 471 
Roussa, Colle della, 72 



604 



INDEX 



Rousse, Grande Aiguille, 220, 251, 
264, 271, 276 ; Petite Aiguille, 271 ; 
Balme, Pointe de, 145 ; Combe, 
Col de, 133 ; Grande, 283 ; Pointe, 
(1) 291, (2) 396 ; Tete, 356, and 
glacier, 368 

Rousseau, 186 

Rousses, Grandes, 109, in, 115, 124, 
126-8 ; Breche des, 127 ; plateaux, 
126-7 

Roussette, La, 461 

Routhennes, 204 

Roux, Le, 76, 82 

Rovella, Cima della, 537 

R ovine, Col and glen, 11-12 

Royannais, 177-9 

Pont en Hoyans, 179 
IL Bonnard ; H. de la Truite Fraiche 

Ruan, Mont, 402, 409, 412, 414 

Rubiana, 257 

Rubren, Grand, 29-30, 38, 50, 64 
Ruchere, Col de la, 194-5 
Ruilles hamlet, 83 

Ruine, Grande, 137, 142, 150 ; Col, 149 

Ruines, Breche de, 51, 59; Col de, 51 

Ruinette, 441, 449, 455, 463 

Ruph, St., glen, 205 

Rutor, glen, 287-8 ; group, 286-92 ; 

lake, 289 ; Tete, 287-90 
Rutorines waterfalls, 288 



Saas, 493, 524-5, 540; grat, 509, 542 ; 
pass and peak, 569-70 

Saas Fee, 543 

H, du Dom ; Grand Hotel ; Grand 
H. Saas-Fee, all in the same hands 
(same owners as the H. de la Poste at 
Visp) ; //. Saas-Fee, smaller (same 
owner as the H. des Alpes at Visp) 

Saas Grund, 540 

//. du Mont Moro 

Sabbione, Col del, 8, 12 

Sablat, Col du Grand, 124, 127-8 

Sables, Les, 114 

Sabiunin plain, 257 

Sabot, Col du, 125-6 

Sache, Dome de la, 248-9 

Sachere, Col de la, 286 

Sachette, Col de la, 226, 248 

Sacripante spring, 62 

Sacro Monte ; Orta, 561 ; Varallo, 522 

Sagerou, Col de, 411 

Sagne, Grande, pass and peak, 152 

Sagnette, Passo delle, 62, 64-5 

Saintine, Xavier de, 72 

Saisies, Col des, 212, 214 

Saix gorge, 225 

Salanfe, 383, 408, 416-7 
Two small Inns 



Salantin, Dent du, 417 
Salarioli Pass, 570 
Salassi, 299 
Salbertrand, 94 

Albergo Grande, near station 
Sale, Bee de, 471 

Saleinaz, Club hut, 385-6, 388, 393 ; 

Fenetre, 388, 392 
Salenton, Col de, 406-7 
Sales, St. Francois de, 208, 338 ; glen, 

200, 203 
Saleses, Col de, 16 
Salette, La, 175-6 
Saleve, 332 
Salins, 239-40 

H. des Bains 
Sallanche stream, 383, 408, 417 
Sallanch.es, 334 

Mont Blanc ; Messageries ; Chalet 

Suisse 

Salle, La, peak, 441 ; village, 294 
At the latter, H. des Voyageurs 
Salles glen, 397, 400 ; Pointe, 403 
Sallieres, Tour, 409, 414, 417 ; Col, 417 
Salsa Morena huts, 21 
Salse, Champ de, 76-7 
Saltine torrent, 556-7 
Saluzzo, 49 

Corona Grossa, good ; Gallo 
Saluzzo, Louis II. of, 58 
Salvadon huts, 402 
Salvagny, 403 
Salvan, 383, 395 

H. de Salvan et des Gorges du 

Triege ; Grand Hotel; H. Bellevue ; 

Pension de V Union ; Pension de 

V Espdrance (at Marecottes) and very 

many others 
Saiza, Furka, 517 ; Mont, 38 ; village, 

76-7 

Sambet, Pointe de, 402 
Sambuco, 32 
Samoens, 396, 424 

Croix d' Or ; Commerce 
Sampeyre, 49 

Posta ; Angelo 
Sana, Pointe de la, 229, 245-6, 276 
Sanfront, 53 

Albergo Torinese ; Italia; Croce 
Bia?ica ; Rosa Ross a 
Sangone glen, 71 

Sanguiniere, Col de, 23 ; Tete de, 2 
Sans Nom, Pic, and Petit Pic, 163 
Santanel, Col de, 309 
Saorge, 8 

Sappey Le, (1) 193, (2) 238 

At no. i, H. des Touristes, much 
improved recently 
Saracens, 95, 429, 540 
Sarennes glacier, 127 



INDEX 



605 



Sarre castle, 295 

Sassa, Col de, 451 

Sassenage, 179 
H. des C uves 

Sasseneire, 459, 486 

Sassiere, chalets and lake, 275, 280 ; 
Col, (1) 284, (2) 286 ; de Ste. Foy, 226, 
272, 284, 286, 291 ; Grande, 227, 272, 
276, 278, 280-1 ; Petite, 284 

Sassolenda glen, 533 

Satarma, Dent and hamlet, 460-1 

Sauce, Col de la, 215-6, 370 

Saulces, Col des, 237 

Saume, Col de la, 98 ; Pointe, 40 

Saussaz, chalets and peaks, 12 1-2 

Sausse chalets, (1) 234, (2) 235 

Saussure, M. de, 251, 327, 337, 339, 
351-2, 364-5, 374, 405, 495, 511, 525 

Satit chalets, 237 ; des Francais, 15 

Sautron, Col de, 34, 46 

Sauvage, Cime du Grand, 124 

Sauveur, St., 19 

H. Wiard, good and moderate 

Sauvours, Rocs, 88 

Sauze de C6sanne, 73, 77, 82 ; d'Oulx, 
73 

Savaranche, Val, 316-7 
Savigliano, 49 

Savine chalets, 90 ; glen, 101-2, 104-6 
Savines, 181 

Savoy partly neutralised, 198-9 
Savoyat, Mont, 124 

Saxe, Baths of JLa, 312 ; Mont, 375 

At the former, Etablissement des 
Bains ; H. du Mont Blanc 
Saxel, Col de, 410, 422 
Saxon, 554 

Grand Hotel des Bains ; H. de la 
Pierre a Voir, near the station 
Saxony, Berold of, 91 
Says, pass and peak, 154 
Scale, Ponte delle, 262 
Scaletta, pass and peak, 33, 46 
Schallberg Refuge, 558 
Schallbett Refuge, 558 
Schallijoch, 484 
Schienhorn Pass, 567 
Schonbiihl, 478 
Schwarzhorn, (1) 489, (2) 506 
Schwarzsee, 501 

Hotel (Seiler), good 
Schwarzthor, 514 
Scionzier, 211 
Sciossa, Bee de la, 450 
Scolette, Aiguille de, 28-9, 89, 99- 

100, 102 
Scop a, 520 

Albergo Topini 
Scopello, 521 

Several Inns 



Sea, Col de, 266 ; Ghicet de, 258 ; glen, 

266 ; Bianca, Col de, 66 
Seche, Col de Chaz, 301 ; Col de Crete, 

45° 

Se chili enne, 113 

H. du Petit Versailles (Boissac), 
poor 
Seez, 292 
Segnara glen, 439 

Segure glen, 59 ; Col du Fond de, 52 

Seguret Foran, Col de, 165 

Seigne, Col de la, 539 

Seigneurs, Montague des Quatre, 134 

Seiler family, 495-6 

Seilon, Col de, 454-5, 457 ; Mont 

Blanc de, 441, 449, 454-5, 463 
Seiran, Col, 74 
Seiva glen, 317, 320, 322 
Sele\ pass and peak, 154 
Sella family, 536 ; Punta, 471, 513 ; 

village, 537 
Sellar, Col du, 166-7 
Selle glacier, 147-8 ; glen, 167, 169 ; 

gorge, 147 
Sellettes, Col des, 159 
Sembrancher, 428 

Croix 
Semnoz, 201 

Large Hotel, near the summit 
Seng glen, 559, 563 
Sengies group, 311 
Sengla, La, 451 
Sept Laux, 131 

Chalet-Hotel (kept by Baroz), built 

by the Soci^te" des Touristes du Dau- 

phine" ; fair little mountain inn 
' SeYacs,' 364 
Serena, Col, 435 
Serenne, Col and village, 36, 40 
Serey, Bee de, 440 
Sermenza, Val, 533 
Serpentine, pass and peak, 453 
Serra, La, moraine, 535 
Serrand, Pont, 294 
Serraval, Col de, 206 
Serre, Col de, 291 
Sertz, Grand, 315-6 
Seru, Rocche del, 88 
Servagno, Col de, 32-3, 45 
Servoz, 336 

H. des Gorges de la Diosaz 
Sesia, Borgo, 522, 537 ; joch, 519 ; 

Val, 521-2 

At no. 1, Albergo Gran Bretagna ; 

Albergo Reale 
Sesto Calende, 563 
Sestriere, peak, 25 

Sestrieres, Col de, 73 ; glen, 20-1 ; 
Rognosa, 29, 67, 73 
On no. 1, Inn (the Baraccone) 



6o6 



INDEX 



Settenez, 205-6 

Settimo Vittone, 298 

Seuil, Haut du, 188 ; Plan du, 125 

Severaisse glen, 156-9 

Sevoliere chalets, 248-9 

Se>reu, Col de, 440, 456 

Sevrier, 201, 207 

Seylieres, Col de, 56, 59, 66 

Seyssinet, 112 

Seytroux, 424 

Sex, Notre Dame du, 553 ; Porte du, 
420 

Sia, Colle della, 322 
Sibolet, Col de, 45, 47 
Sierre, 555 

H. Bellevice, good ; H. Terminus, 
new, at the station ; H. de la Poste 
Sierroz stream, 200 
Sigismond, Emperor, 429 
Signal. Le, 551 
Signal e\ Pic, 40 
Signalkuppe, 505 
Signori, Col dei, 7 
Silbersattel, 504-5 
Silvius, Mons, 507, 511 
Simeli Pass, 565 
Simler, 230 
Simon, Col St., 42 

Simplon,4i8, 548-9,557-60; village, 
559 

On the pass, Hospice, accommo- 
dation poor. In the village, H. de 
la Poste, good ; H. Fletschhorn, fallen 
off ; Croix Blanche 

Siolane, Grande, 25 

Sion, 555 

H. de la Poste; H. du Midi; 
Pension des Maye?is de Sion, at the 
hamlet of that name, above the city 

Sirac, 158, 171-2 

Siruol, Pointe de, 13 

Sirwolten Pass, 565 

Sismonda, Signal, 301 

Sisteron, 181 
H. Lachaud 

Six Jeur, 383 

Sixt, 395, 400-1 ; St. Jean de f 209 

At the former, H. du Per a Cheval, 
good 
Soana, Val, 310-1 
Soches huts, 281 
Soera, Val, 311 
Soleil, Porte du, 414, 425 
Solliette, Pointe de, 251 
Som, Grand, 190, 193 ; Petit, 188 
Sometta, Gran, 512, 527 
Somma, Gran, 98 

Sommeiller, Monsieur, 93, 396 ; pass 

and peak, 102-3 
Sonadon, pass and peak, 447 



Sonnant glen, 134 

Sonnighorn, 569 

Sorba glen, 537 

Sorda, Comba, toirent, 289 

Sorebois, Col de, 486 

Soreiller glen, 140 

Sorlin, St., d'Arves, glacier, 126-8 

Sort, Col de, 317 

Sospel, 9 

H. Carenco, good 
Soubeyran, Pres, lake, 41 
Souffles, Pic des, 176 
Soufre, Pas du, 237 
Soule, Colle, 258 
Soulieres chalets, 52, 62 
Souloise glen, 177 
Soureillan, 155, 163 
Soustra, Col de, 51 
Spahnhorn, 571 
Sparone, 319 
Staffel Alp, 479, 501 

Small Inn 
Stalden., 494 ; joch, 540 

H. Stalden, good (same owners as 
the Poste at Visp, and the three chief 
Hotels at Saas Fee) 
Stavel, 518 
Stella, Monte, n 
Stellihorn, 490 

Stockalper family, 420, 557, 559 

Stockhorn, 500 

Stockje, 478 

Stoffelberg, 521 

Strahlhorn, 545 

Stresa, 563 

H. des lies Borrome'es, and several 
others 
Strona, Val, 539 
Stroppia, Col de, 45 
Stroppo, 45 

Corona Grossa ; Croce Bianca 
Stura : di Demonte, 31 ; d'Ala, 262-3 ; 
di Lanzo, 255, 268; di Valgrande, 
266-7 ; di Viu, 254-5 
Sucre, Pain de, (1) 51, (2) 375, (3) 432 
Siidlenzspitze, 547 
Suessa, Becca di, 284 
Sulpice, St., 195 
Sure, Grande, 190 
Susa, 97 

No good Inn 
Susanfe, cirque of, 412, 415 ; Col, 415 
Susse plain, 303 
Susten, 556 

H. de la Souste, at the station, 
good 



Tabachetti, the sculptor, 522 
Tabuc glen, 165 



INDEX 



607 



Tabuchet glacier, 144 

Tachuy, pass and peak, 289, 291 

Taconnaz glacier, 350, 354 

Tacul, Aiguille du, 363 ; Mont Blanc 

du, 350, 357 
Tagliaferro, 533 
Taillante, Roche, 52, 59 
Taill£e, Pierre, ravine, 294 ; Roche, 

114, 132 
Taillefer, 11 2-3 
Tairraz, Jean, 300 
Talefre, Col de, 366 ; glacier, 342 
Tallard, 182 
Talloires, 207 

H. de I ' Abb aye ; H. Beausite ; H. 

Bellevue 
Talon, Col du, 23 
Tamie\ Col de, 205-6 
Tanay lake, 420-1 

Inn (pension 4-7 francs) 
Taninges, 396, 424 
Balances 

Tanneverge, Col de, 401, 409 ; Col de, 
du Buet, 410 ; Pointe de, 401-2, 409, 
412 

Tarentaise, the, 221-5 

Tasch, Alp, 544; horn, : 510, 543; 
village, 495 

Small Inn on no. 1 

Tauretunum, 420 

Tave\ Grand, 441, 445 

Tavernettes, Les, 96 

H. de V Ancienne Poste 

Telchenhorn, 518 

Teleccio, Col de, 312 

Temple, pass and peak, 109, 153 

Tenaison hut, 194 

Tencin, 130-1, 187 
H. Flachat 

Tenda, Col de, 2, 4-8 ; village, 7 ; 
San Dalmazzo di, 7 

At the village H. National is the 
best ; at S. Dalmazzo there is an ex- 
cellent Stabilimento 

Tendre, Mont, 332 

Tepey glen, 133-4 

Termignon, 95, 244 

H. du Lion d'Or, good 

Termine, Col del, 535 

Tersiva, 295, 299, 306 

Tesso valley, 255-6 

Tetafayaz, 479-80 

Tetes, Col des, 35 

Thabor, Col du, 88-9 ; Mont, 29, 79, 

88-9 ; Pic du, 188 
Thalihorn, 567 
Thalliboden glacier, 541 
Th.eod.ule, St., pass and peak, 493, 

510-2 
Hotel on the pass 



Theys, 129, 131 

H. Moreynas ; H. Payerne 
Thiervoz, Grand, 130 
Thoiry, 203 

Chez Packoud 
Thomas, family, 552 ; Prince, Camp 

of, 294 
Thones, 198, 209 

H. de Planpalais ; H. du Midi 
Thonon, 419 

Grand H. des Bains ; H. de V Eu- 
rope ; H. de France ; and others 
Thorame Haute, 24 

H. Roux 
Thorant, death of M., 140 
Thorens, chalets and Col, 235-6 ; glen, 
208 

Thoula glen, 433 

Thouviere, Pas de la, 227, 245, 274 
Thovez, 294 
Thuile, La, 204 

H. Veillet 
Thuille, La, 294 ; de Ste. Foy, 226 

At no. 1, H. National, good, de- 
spite its outward appearance 
Thumel, 281 
Thures, Col des, 86 
Thuria, Col and Mont, 248-9 
Thiirle Passes, 530, 535 
Thurres, Col de, 82-3 ; stream, 79 
Thuy, 209 

Tiefenmatten glacier, 478 ; joch, 470 
Ti£our£, Col du, 41 
Tiers torrent, 196 

Tignes, 227 ; lake, 247 ; Quec^es de, 
245 

At the village H. Rivial (David), 
or H. dti Club Alfiin (in a side 
street) is better than that of Rivial 
(Florentin) or the H. des Touristes 
(on the Place) 

Tignet, 215 

Tigny, 86 

Tinee, St. Etienne de, 4, 20 ; 

valley, 18-21 

At St. Etienne, H. de France, 
good. Two Inns at the station of 
La Tin£e 

Tines, Les, gorge, 395-6 ; village, 
215-6 

Tinibras, Mont, 20, 32 
Tirequoy, 132 

Toillies, Tete des, 29-30, 38, 42, 50 

Tola, Bella, 480 

Ton, Passo del, 570 

Tondu, pass and peak, 378 

Tonini, ascents by Signor, 259-60 ; Col 

and peak, 261 ; death of, 104 
Torches Becca, 515, 519, 532 
Torches, Cime des, 124 



6o8 



INDEX 



Torgnon, 476 

Restaurant Vesan 
Torno, Pra del, 74 
Tornetti glen, 258 

Torre, Col della, 322 ; Val della, 257 
Torre Pellice, 68 

H. de I' Ours, good 
Torrent, Col de, 485 ; Finestra del, 

283 ; glacier, 283 ; Val, 480, 485 
Torrents, Trois, 413, 425 

H. de Trois Torrents ; H. de la 

Com?nune 
Tosa river, 560 
Tossiet glen, 54, 66 
Touet de Beuil, 22 

H. Latty, near the station, good 
Touilles, aqueduct and glen, 103 
Tounot, lake and peak, 480, 487-8 
Tour, Aiguille de la, 345, 353 
Tour, Le, 381 ; Aiguille and Col du, 

391 ; Fenetre, du 392 
Tourettes, Col des, 171 
Tournairet, 13 

Small Cantine at the Brasque huts, 

\ hr. below the summit 
Tournalin, Grand, pass and peak, 513, 

528 

Tournanche, 513 ; Colde, 512 ; valley 
and village, 513 

At the latter, H. du Mont Rose, good 
Tourne, Col de la, 248 
Tournette, La, 206-7, 209 
Tourniquet, Le, 170 
Tournoux fort, 34, 36 
Tourond huts, 173 
Tours, Grandes, 25 
Touvet, Le, 188 

H. du Gra?id St. Jacques 
Trabuech glen, 178, 182 
Tracuit, Alp and Col, 481, 488 
Trajo, Col de, 301, 315 ; glacier, 305-7 
Traversella, 297 
Traverses, Les, 73 

Rose Rouge 
Traversette, Col de, 292 ; Col de la, 

and peak, 48, 58, 64 
Traversiere, Grande, 282 ; Pointe de la, 

272, 278, 281 
Tredici Laghi, 74 
Tre Lajet, Colie dei, 258 
Tre Vescovi, Punta, 533 
Treicol glen, 215-7 
Trelaporte, 343 

Trelatete, Aiguille de, 372, 377 ; Col de, 

378 ; glacier, 377 
Trelod, Mont, 200-2 
Trem, Passo del, 8 
Tr^minis, 178 
Tr£sanne, 178 
Tresenta, 321-2. 



Trephine hut, 217 
Treuil, Tour du, 128 
Tr£vignin, 201 

Tribulation glacier, 296, 307 ; Tete, 

304. 3 I 4- 3 21 
Tribulazione, Becchi della, 313 
Tricot, Col de, 369, 379 

Small Inn on the Col, opened in 

1898 

Triege glen, 408, 418 ; gorges, 383 
Trient, Col, 382, 392 ; glacier and 

village, 383 ; gorges, 554 ; Plateau, 

391 ; torrent, 381-2 

At the village, H. du Glacier du 

Trient; H. des Alpes 
Trieves, 177, 183 

Trift, Alp, 540, 563-5 ; gorge, 501 ; 

joch, 483 

Above the Alp, H. du Weissmies, 
fair little mountain inn 
In no. 2, two Inns 
Trillat, 129 

Trinity, La, see Gressoney 
Triolet, Aiguille de, 362 ; Col, 366 
Trione, Colle di, 258 
Triquent, 383 

H. du Mont Rose ; H. de la Dent 
du Midi 

Trois, Dents d'Ambin, 29, 89, 101, 
105 ; du Pelvoux, 163 ; Eveche's, (1) 
24, 35, (2) 116-7, 120; Eveiques, 
Rocher des, 1, 21, 34; Freres, 437; 
Freres Mineurs, Col, 81 ; Pointes, 
Col des, 120 ; Torrents, 413, 425 
At the last, H. de Trois Torrents 

Troncea glen, 67, 73, 77 

Tronchet, Col, 40 

Troncone glen, 570-1 

Trucco chalets, 253, 256 

Truche, Col de, 291 

Tsalende, Col de Pian, 305 

Tsanteleina, 272-3, 275-6, 278, 280-1 ; 
Col, 278, 280 

Tuckett, Col, 165 

Tuf, Punta del, 315 

Tunnels, 7, 29, 48, 58, 89, 92-3, 103, 
119, 191, 194-5, 208 

Turbat, pass and peak, 176 

Turc, Breche Joseph, 146 

Turin, 94 

Grand Hotel de Turin, opposite 
the station, good ; Angleterre , good ; 
and others 

Turlo Pass, 530 ; Little, 535 

Turtmann, glacier and glen, 488-9, 
491 ; village, 556 

At the latter, Soleil ; Poste 

Twins, 507, 515 

Tyndall, Prof., 341, 507, 509 ; Pic, 508 
Tzouss, Croix de, 430 



INDEX 



609 



Ubaye, valley, 29, 34-44 ; village, 35 

Ubayette, valley, 334 

Ugines and Fontaines, 206, 211 

At Ugines, H. Joguet ; H. Pon- 
tenier 

At Fontaines, H. Carrin 
Uje, Colle delle, 311 
Ulrichshorn , 547 
Unghiasse, Colle, 268 
Uorao Storto, Passo dell', 530 
Uriage, 134 

Grand Hotel ; H. du Cercle ; H. 

Monnet ; H. du Rocher ; and many 

others 
Urina, Col dell', 70 
Urnasch, 560 
Useigne, 459 
Usseaux, 72 
Usseglio, 255 

Albergo Cibrario, at the hamlet of 

Corteviccio, poor 
Ussellettes glacier, 289 
Ussolo, 46 
Utelle, 14 

H. National, poor 
Utrecht, Treaty of, 34-5, 49, 71, 94 



Vaccera, Col della, 74 

Vache, Col de la, (1) 132, (2) 272, 277 

Vacheresse, 421, 425 

Croix 
Vachette, La, 81 
Vachier, Puy, lake, 116, 148 
Vailly, 423 
Vaire river, 21, 24 

Valaisan, Mont, 291, 293 ; Pas du, 303 
Valasco, 10, 16 ; Col de, 16 
Valaverta, Passo di, 570 
Valbonnais, 174 

H. Dussert, fair 
Valcournera, Col de, 471-2 
Valdeblore, 14 

At the La Bolline hamlet, H. de 
France (I card), bad and dirty 
Valdieri, Baths of, 10 

Stabilimento, good 
Valdieri, town of, 9 

Corona Grossa 
Valdigne, 294 

Val d'Isere, 228, 273-6; Dome de, 
2 73-4 

//. Moris, good little mountain inn 
Valdobbia, Col de, 532 ; Biva, 521 

At Riva, Albergo delle Alpi (Gug- 
lielmina), good 
Valduggia, 537 

Valeille, glacier and glen, 296, 304, 
312 

Valefroide, Col de, 188, 194 



' Valentine glen, 424 
j Valette, Col de la, 124 ; La, 175 
I Valgaudemar, 146, 156-9, 162, 166 
! Valgelaye, Col de, 25 

Valjouffrey, 146, 160, 175-6 

In the two latter cases, see Chapelle, 
La 

Vallais, spelling of the name, 555 ; 
Port, 552 

Vallante, Col de, 30, 52-3, 63-4; Viso 

di, 59, 62, 100 
Valletta, La, 10, 15 ; Col, (1) 17, 32, 

(2) 77, (3) 257 ; Punta, 254 
Vallette, Col de la, 19 
Valloire, 119; Col de, 133 

Chez Giraud (a la Jeune France), 

poor ; chez Rambaud 
Valloirette torrent, 119 
Vallon, Abbaye de, 423 ; Breche du, 

139; Cime du, 159-60; Cime du 

Grand, (1) 99, (2) 100 
Vallonet, Col du, 20, 32 ; Le, 122, 124 ; 

Pointe de, 229 
Vallonetto, Colle, 47 ; Sagna del, 256 
Vallonnet, Col du, 34 
Vallonpierre, Col de, 171 
Vallorcine, 382 

H. du Buet 
Vallot, hut, 355; maps by MM., 330, 

348, 407-8 
Vallouise, 137, 146, 161-2 ; Ville, 162 
At the Ville, H. des Ecrins 

(Lagier) ; H, d ' Ailefroide (Rolland, 

owner of the inn at Ailefroide) ; II. 

du Mont Pelvoirx (Gauthier) 
Valmasca, 8 
Valmeinier and Col, 89 
Valnontey, 296, 304, 314; Col de, 314, 

321 ; Tete de, 304 
Valpelline, Col de, 464, 469 ; valley, 

458, 465-8 ; village, 466 

At the village, Lion d'Or; Croix 

Blanche 
Valplane, Tete de, 265 
Valprato, 309 

At the Corzonera hamlet, Stani- 

becco 

Valscura lakes, 10, 16 
Valsenestre, 146, 161, 176; Breche 
de, 161 

At the village, chez Blanc-Vial \ 
poor 

Valsorey, Col de, and glen, 436-7 
Valtournanche, 513 

H. du Mont Rose, good 
Van huts, 417 

Vanoise, Aiguille de la, 243 ; Col, 243- 

4 ; glacier, 241 
Vanzone, 526 

Albergo del Cacciatvri 

R R 



6io 



INDEX 



Var valley, 2, 17, 21-3 ; sources, 23 
Varaita, Val, 49-53 
Varallo, 522 

H. d Italia (Guglielmina) , excel- 
lent ; Posta ; Croce Bianca 
Varappe, Aiguille de la, 392-3 
Varbuche huts, 234 
Varelios glen, 19 
Varens, Aiguille de, 335, 398 
Varia, Val, 566 
Varlossiere, Col de la, 234 
Vars, Col de, 30, 39 
Varzo, 560 

Chez Zanalda ; chez Gentinetta 
Vasevay, Col de, 440, 456 
Vassu, Gouille a, 436-7 
Vaudagne, 335 
Vaudaine, 114 

Vaudet chalets, 281, 283 ; Col de, 284 
Vaudru, 402 
Vaujany, 126 

Chez Jacquemet 
Vaulnaveys, 134 
Vaunoire glen, 175 
Vaure, Col de la, 176 
Vautisse, Tete de, 168, 170 
Vaxivier, 157 
Vedettes du Rutor, 287-8 
Vedro valley, 557, 559 
Vefrette, Col de, 246 
Veisivi, Col de, 461, 477 ; Grande 

Dent, 462, 477 
Velan, Mont, 426, 430, 432, 437-8 
Venanson, 13 
Venaria Reale, 256-7 
Venasea, 49 

Rosa Ross a ; Italia 
Venaus, 96 
Vence, Col de, 194 

Auberge de la Chapel le 
V6n£on valley, 138-40 
Veni, Val, 372 
Venoni, Rocher, 260 
Venose, 138, 147 

In the village, chez Balme, poor ; 
on the high road, at Bourg d'Arud, 
chez Giraud 
Vens glen, 21 
Ventebrun, 23 
Venthon, 213 
Ventimiglia, 9 

Vents, Col and Signal des Grands, 397 
Veran, St. Baisse de, 8 ; Col de, 50 ; 
village, 42-3 

At the latter, Hotel Fine, fair 
Vercors, 177-9 
Verdon valley, 2, 17, 24-5 
Verdona, Col de, 473 
Verdonne, Col and Pic de, 168-9 
Vergia, Punta, 77 



Vermenagna valley, 5 
Vermilion, Col de, 21 
Vernayaz, 394, 554 

H. des Gorges du Trient, good 
Vernaz, Col de, 421, 425 
Verney, Le, 95 ; lake, 294 

At the former, on the high road, 
H. de la Croix Blanche, poor and 
dear 

V£rolliaz chapel, 553 
Verra Pass, 515 
Verres, 298 

Italia ; Scudo di Francia 
Verriere, La, 402, 404 
Vers, Col de, 46 
Versoye torrent, 215, 292-3, 371 
Verte, Aiguille, 349, 361-2, 388 
Vertosan glen, 294 
Very, Col de, 212, 214 
Vescovi, Punta Tre, 533 
Vessona, Col de, 474 
Vesubie, river, 4 ; station, 14, 18 ; 
St. Martin, 13 ; valley, 14-5 
At no. 2, Inn 

At no. 3, H. des Alpes, always 
open ; Pension Anglo- Amdricaine, 
open in summer 
Vevey, 551 

Grand Hotel, outside the town ; H. 
Monnet or Trois Couronnes, good ; 
H. du Lac; H. du Chateau; H. 
Mooser ; and many others 
Vex, 459 

Veymont, Grand, 178 

Veynes junction, 177, 180, 182 

Buffet 

Veyrier, 332 ; Montagne de, 208 

H. Beausejour 
Veyton glen, 132-3 
Vial, pass and peak, 22 
Vico Canavese, 297 

Corona Grossa ; Universo 
Vieille, Alpe, 290 ; Ville, 60 

At the latter, EUphant, fair ; 
Meyer 

Vieux, Col, 51 ; Col du, 411 
Vieyes, 300 

Cantine des Voyageurs 
Vieze valley, 413, 425-6 
Vif, 183 

Union 
Vigne glacier, 520, 528 
Vignerons, Abbaye des, 551 
Villanova, 69 

Villar, 49 ; Pelliee, 68 ; Perosa, 71 

At no. 2, Abrard ; Garibaldi 

At no. 3, Rosa Rossa 
Villard de Pralognan, 240 
Villards glen, 91, 126, 132-4, 232 
Villarly, 233, 235 



INDEX 



611 



Villarodin, 99 
Villaroger, 226, 24Q 
Ville, Pas de la, 178 
Villeneuve, (1) 210, (2) 282, 295, 316, 
(3) S5 2 I Rocher de, 242 
' At no. 1, Victoire ; Croix — St. 
Maurice 

At no. 2, Cerf, fair ; Union 
At no. 3, Ville; Port; Croix 
Blanche ; above, Grand H. Byron 
Vimines, 195 
Vinadio, 32 

At the village, Italia, fair 
At the Baths, Stabilimento 
Vincent, family, 516 ; hut, 530 ; Pyra- 

mide, 506 
Vincent, St., (1) 35, (2) 299, 516 

At no. 2, Stabilimento ; Lion d'Or ; 
Couronne 
Violetta, Punta, 317 
Viollins, Les, 170 
Viraysse fort, 34 
Virieu le Grand, 196 

H. Suchet, opposite the station 
Visaille, Cantine de la, 372, 380 

A small mountain Inn 
Viso, Amait, and Col, 57, 66 ; Col dei, 
56, 63-4 ; di Vallante, 59, 62, 100 ; 
glacier, 55-6, 63-4; Monte, 28, 46-8, 
50, 54-5, 61-4, 100 ; Mozzo, 55-6, 
64; Pertuis du, 58; Tour of the, 
64 

Visolotto, 48, 56, 59 ; Col, 56-7 
Visoulet, 48, 53, 57 
Visp, 556 

H. de la Poste (same owners as 
the chief inns at Stalden and Saas 
Fee), good; Soleil, also good ; Alpes 
(same owner as H. Saas- Fee at Saas 
Fee) ; Buffet 
Visperterbinen, 556 
Vissoye, 479 

H. d'Anniviers (same owner as 
H. des Diablons at Zinal) ; H. des 
Alpes 
Vittoria, Punta, 530 
Viu valley and village, 254-8 

Corona Reale ; Caccia Reale 
Viva, Roccia, 313 
Viverone lake, 535 
Vizille, 113, 183 

H. Mitton ; H. Prat 
Vofrede, Col de, 471-2 
Vogealle huts, 412 
Vogna glen, 532-3 
Vogogna, 560 

Corona 
Voir, Pierre a, 439, 554 
Voiron, 190 

Poste ; Midi ; Cours 



Voirons, Les, 333, 419, 422 

Near the summit //. de /' Ermitage ; 
Chalet des Voirons 
Volant meadow, 112 
Vonzo, 268 
Voreppe, 190 

Petit Paris 
Vouasson, Pointe de, 456, 459, 462 
Vouvry, 420 

Poste 
Voza, Col de, 368 

Above the Col, Pavilion Bel lev ue 
Vufflens castle, 550 
Vuibez icefall, 452 ; rocks, 461 



Waldensians, 67-78, 94, 104, 106, 

155, 162, 170, 212, 226, 230, 439 
Wandfluh rock wall, 478 
Wasenhorn, 558 
Weingarten glacier, 544 
Weisshorn, 485, 491, 509 
Weisshorn, Hotel, 479-80 
Weissmies, 547, 566 ; sattel, 567 
Weissthors, 522-4, 542 
Welden, Baron von, 506 
Wellenkuppe, 483, 502 
Windham, 339, 341 
Windjoch, 546 



Yenne, 195-6 

Clef d Or ; Rose Couronnie 
Youla, Col de, 293, 376 



Za, Aiguille de la, 462 

Za de Zan, basin, 465 ; glacier, 466-7 

Zarmine, Col de, 461, 477 

Zate\ Col de, 485 

Zerbion, Mont, 528, 531 

Zermatt, 338, 493, 495-510, 552 

H. Zermatt; H. du Mont Rose; 
H. du Mont Cervin ; Railway 
Restaurant (all excellently kept by 
the Seiler family) ; H. Terminus ; 
H. Bellevue ; H. d Angleterre ; H. 
de la Poste 

Zermeiggern, 541 

Zessetta, Combin de, 444 

Zigiorenove glacier, 452-3, 461 

Zinal, 481 ; glacier, 481-2 ; Pointe de, 
483 

Grand H. des Diablons (same 
owner as the H. d Anniviers at 
Vissoye), large and new ; H. Durand 
(Vve. Epiney), the old inn, now en- 
larged and improved ; H. du Besso, 
small 



6 I 2 



INDEX 



Zinareffian rocks, 453 462 
Z'Meiden Pass, 487 ; village, 489 

At the latter, the good little 
H. Schwarzhorn 
Z'Mutt, glacier and hamlet, 478-9, 

Zosanne ake, 486 



Zsigmondy, Breche, 144 ; death 

Herr, 140, 143 
Zub£, Passo, 530 

Zumsteinsattel, and Spitze, 505, 516 
Zwillinge, 507, 515 
i Zwillingspass, 515 
Zwischbergen Pass and village, 566-7 



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